where to get good primer for body

[Border Collie]

Next spring I'm wanting to sandblast and sand rust spots off my Buick, and wondered where I might get a professional quality of primer to put on the bare metal before painting. I'm not going to try for a pretty job, I just want a good job to stop the rust in those spots. I've tried using the paint that bonds to the rust and turns black - with so-so results. The problem is that rust forms on the edges of the treated places.

So I want to sand and sandblast down all traces of rust, and prime with something really good. I got an estimate from a body shop that was many times more than I could afford, and they mentioned using an acid primer to prepare for painting.

Any tips on this search for a primer?

For paint, I don't know what is a good quality product to use either, but I was just going to worry about the primer for now.

Border Collie

 

[Opus Dei]

Just get something by a known name in the business-like Ditzler or DuPont's Imron line. Follow directions. That's all I know.

 

[toothless1]

if it is going to stay in primer for more then a day it has to be epoxy,
epoxy primer is the only one that is water proof.
how are you going to apply the paint/primer?

most guys sand blast then use phosphoric acid to treat the rust pits before pimer.
you can apply fillers over most epoxy.
the best deal I found is kirker epoxy primer.
it requires a spray gun though.

 

[Border Collie]

I was hoping to use a spray can or even a brush. I have an air compressor, and Sears sand blasting tool. It works well enough. I've been looking into Zero Rust, POR-15, and one other. Never heard of the acid, or an epoxy primer.

I'll be checking out those now. THank you! I had a $1500 estimate from the body shop to sand the rust and repaint parts of my car (94 Buick Century). The car is real good running, I'm going to do what I can to hold the rust in check. I tried using the primer that bonds to rust, sold by Gemplers Farm supply (and others). It turns black, works so-so, but rust appears around the edges. I need to snad blast a clear area, then prime well. The acid to prepare the metal sounds like what's needed - something more than primer over clean-appearing metal, and sand blasting/sanding rather than just "painting' the obvious rust.

I'm not interested in looks, strictly funtionality.

Any tips on a brand of phosphoric acid sold in auto stores, or a source for it. I'll be asking around too, but if you have knowledge of soemthing that works for you, I'll save myself one more mistake and use that.

THanks again!

Border Collie

 

[toothless1]

BC
try Dupont 5717S
put it on work it in and wipe it off .
don't leave it on wet,
wear gloves,glasses, etc. be careful
this stuff is nasty.
let any residual acid dry..... then prime.

sand with 400 grit any old paint that will be overlaped before you prime,
and mask before you spray

Will your compressor run a spray gun?
you can buy a cheap harbour freight hvlp gun for primer
It will save you money compared to spray cans

here is a link to cheap kirker epoxy primer
this use to be their everyday price so try a call to SS.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=43997&item=2437789300

good luck

 

[intothatgoodnight]

Here is a URL worth perusing:

http://www.geocities.com/goodytommy/rust/

If you intend on REALLY removing the rust from the metal so that it does not return, you will need to:

A) sandblast/mediablast or sand/wirewheel to remove all surface rust.

B) treat with an etcher chemical to remove the microscopic, ground in rust that is lingering in the pores of the metal surface -- this is a critical step in preventing future rust from appearing underneath any future finished paint surfaces. Etching chemicals are highly toxic, and must be handled according to directions -- ventalation, breathing apparatus and etch-chemical resistant rubber gloves are a must.

C) a waterproof primer without a color coat, OR a primer/sealer/filler coat followed by the final surface coat, which will provide the proper waterproof barrier.

D) prep is important -- take your time and perform a thourough job, according to instructions.

E) some paints/primers are very toxic to breathe, so proper ventilation and breathing apparatus are imperative. Do NOT ignore paint/primer warning labels.

Perhaps you could make a deal with a local auto body shop to prep the car, ready to shoot primer and have the auto shop perform the actual painting/priming. Or, how about a local vocational or high school auto body shop/class to get a cut-rate price while the students learn?

You will also discover that the cost of rust removers, sandpaper or sandblaster tips, etching chemicals, primer and/or color paints can be significant.

In another life long, long ago, restored older cars -- appearance and mechanicals/electricals. Had a fully equipped shop, lifts, air tools and paint booth/bay -- was mostly a hobby, though profited handsomely on a couple/three of the project restores.

Times changed, job moved, and house with shop/garage was sold -- since then, career aspirations have demanded my full attentions.


intothegoodnight