Chapter 241: Sep 24 - Melk, Austria
Today I was told something different. It is not that I am young and more active, it is that I am more religious-tolerant and good with the older women. Chief Gunder is good, but with all my brats having given me years of practice, I am proof against The Schmooze. Of course I did not tell him that any more than I have let all of my brats in on my all to often practiced talent. It is my little secret. Not even Vit know just how good I am. Of course, he is good as well and ever so often I allow myself to believe the Dymtrus Schmooze. It is far too much fun. From Polina I heard the truth – some of the group just about drove their guides up a wall the previous day and they just refused to do back-to-back tours with them. Hmph, lucky them. They’ll owe me.
In hindsight I’m not sure what they were complaining about. The women had much better attitudes than their younger counterparts in other excursion groups and I told Polina and Chief Gunder both. The ladies might have been a little starchy during our excursion to the Abbey, but by the time the wine testing was over with they were quite … relaxed. I really don’t know what Polina was laughing about. Really. Maybe it was the look on Chief Gunder’s face.
I had my group for three separate excursions today with very few changing out. It actually made my day easier. After breakfast on board ship we first visited the abbey at Melk, a 900-year-old Benedictine monastery featuring Austria’s finest Italian baroque architecture. We came back to the ship for lunch and to cruise through the spectacular Wachau Valley before docking once again, this time to explore the town of Krems and for an excursion to a local winery to sample some local vintages from this famous wine-producing region. And then on to dinner at the Gottweig Abbey.
As I said, first came the renowned Melk Abbey, a masterwork of baroque brilliance. It was perched on cliffs high above the Danube, reminding me of some of Angelia’s gothic romances. Shiver. The building was a ochre-colored confection. At the abbey’s entrance we met our guide and he must have had experience charming otherwise cranky women because most of them wound up giggling before the end of the tour. Oh my.
Rebuilt during the 18th century after the original 12th-century building was destroyed by fire, the abbey’s library is now home to a wide range of medieval manuscripts. The interior of the abbey’s church is a blinding kaleidoscope of red, orange and gold, with a magnificent carved pulpit and colorful ceiling frescoes. I almost asked how anyone supposed to keep their minds on the sermon with all of that eye-candy on the walls. I behaved myself and gave myself a figurative pinch that Momma might have threatened. We also saw the imperial rooms, which are now home to a museum chronicling the abbey’s history from its inception to modern times. The views from the terrace were breathtaking.
The Melk Abbey was founded in 1089 as a Benedictine Abbey and monks continue in this tradition for over 900 years. From its beginning, Melk has been an important cultural and spiritual center. Since the 12th century a school has been attached to the monastery, perpetuating the library which is a treasure in and of itself. Even though the Melk Abbey Gardens are small, they are nicely maintained and have quite a few trees over 400 years old. Our guide took us for a stroll and the women appreciated that he took into account their “elder pace.” To be honest I think they were hamming it up a bit. In order to be assigned to the Peace Mission you must meet minimum physical requirements. They also seemed to make a little more of their age than I thought reasonable. One of them was Angelia’s age. I remarked on many of them being closer to my sisters’ ages than what I considered elderly. Perhaps that earned me some “brownie points.”
The Babenbergs, an important medieval ducal family that controlled a wide swath of Austria before yielding to the Habsburgs, were the first to erect a castle on the hill above Melk, which they subsequently gave to Benedictine monks. These monks, some 900 years ago, turned it into a fortified abbey and the greatest center of learning in Central Europe. Their library was the inspiration for Umberto Eco’s best-selling novel The Name of the Rose. Monks there created more than 1,200 manuscripts, sometimes spending an entire lifetime hand-lettering a single volume. A docent that was helping in the library explained that it now contains some 100,000 volumes, among them more than 80,000 works printed before 1800.
We were driven back to the ship, boarded, and I suggested they grab a bite to eat before our winery tour. I checked on Vit but could only wave to let him know that I had reboarded safely. I didn’t get to see him before disembarking once again in our new location. He and Yegor spend all of their time keeping communications and other tech running and protected from groups set against the Peace Mission. I know he does an important job, we all do, but I miss having more time with him now that we’ve settled the trouble we had aboard the Bonhoeffer.
I was surprised to get a note from him during my meal to try and persuade Polina to accompany me for the remainder of the day. She was being forced to take a day off and was at loose ends.
“C’mon Polina. It won’t be that bad.”
“Bah! The paperwork is stacked on all four corners of my desk and in the middle as well.”
“Please?”
“Did Yegor put you up to this?”
“No. I have not spoken with him at all. Vit mentioned and … save me from tipsy diplomats.”
After a moment she gave me a naughty look. “You will owe me. Or perhaps they will.”
“Naturally,” I told her trying to hold back a laugh.
Need I say that the visit to a local winery was a hit? The Wachau wine region comprises just three percent of Austrian wine, but it is an important percentage. Our guide took us for a scenic drive into the valley, whose unique combination of terraced slopes, dry stone walls, hillside castles, vineyards and rich cultural tradition has earned it a place as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Wine has been produced here since the time of the Celts, long before the Roman Empire introduced the Riesling grape. During our winery visit, we learned how the region’s grapes amplify the qualities of the earth in which they are grown, toured impressive cellars, and sampled wines little known to American palates. I managed to snag a couple of bottles to bring back to Vit but just barely as the women in the group had the same idea. Our hosts were very pleased.
A few of the ladies were slightly tipsy but nothing too ridiculous. Luckily we left the winery and headed straight to the Gottweig Abbey and Dinner. Gottweig is a Benedictine abbey overlooking the Wachau Valley. Our hosts welcomed us in the abbey’s apricot garden where we were then directed to a small theater to view a short film about monastic life and what it takes to run a monastery today. From there we were led through the church’s neoclassical portal into a rainbow-colored interior where we had some free time to explore the abbey’s museum, which chronicles its history as a center of religious life for more than 900 years and its role as a monastic retreat. Thankfully we could take pictures and one of my favorite of the night is of Polina standing on a riser of the three-story imperial staircase and its fresco ceiling.
After seeing other areas we returned to five minutes of silence as the bells chimed to signal the time for evening prayer. The monks went one direction and we headed to enjoy a delicious dinner with – what else – wine tasting afterwards before rejoining our ship where I learned that Vit and Yegor were still on a transatlantic call concerning some equipment. I had no doubt Dylan had something to do with it but I haven’t made a fuss. But I am missing my husband. Hmmm. Perhaps I have imbibed an excess of wine myself and should go take a shower.
Story Veta (Book 2) (complete)
- Thread starter Kathy in FL
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Chapter 253: Oct 6 - Veliko, Bulgaria
Today was an all-day excursion for the group. We were in Bulgaria’s former capitol, Veliko Tarnovo. It is one of the oldest settlements in Bulgaria, a stronghold of the First Bulgarian Empire. The Uprising of Asen and Peter began there on 26 October 1185, the feast day of St. Demetrius of Thessaloniki, and ended with the restoration of Bulgaria with the creation of the Second Bulgarian Empire, ruled by the Asen dynasty.
The highlight of visiting the area is seeing Tsarevets Fortress, a stunning backdrop to the old medieval city. Although the site looks massive, it took just about two hours to fully explore. After the city was proclaimed the capital of the second Bulgarian Kingdom in 1185, Tsarevets became home to the aristocracy and its main fort. Today, the fortress is a little worse for wear, but the ruins still remain and give insight into the life of Bulgarian royalty in centuries gone past. The fortress is composed of thousands of feet of stone walls, many of which are up to 12 feet thick, and covers a total area of over 50,000 square feet.
The Patriarchal Cathedral of the Holy Ascension of God (try saying that three times fast!) is located on the top of the Tsaravets fortress. It’s one of the strangest churches I’ve ever been in, with extremely unusual religious artwork inside. Whereas the outside of the church is very traditional, done in the Byzantine style with a traditional stone exterior, the inside is just straight up wacky. The interior of the church wasn’t always so strange. It used to be incredibly ornate, with floor mosaics of multi-colored marble and gemstones. The walls were covered in more traditional Orthodox frescos. However, the interior decor didn’t survive the years, and during the reconstruction efforts in the 20th century, the church got a very weird facelift. It was repainted in a modernist – and rather creepy – style. Because of these strange murals, the church has never been re-consecrated and is no longer in use today, except by curious tourists. At the back of the building is a panoramic elevator that leads to the highest part of the tower.
The Baldwin Tower is also part of the Tsarevets fortress and it was been named after the Latin emperor Baldwin of Flanders, who was captured in the battle of Edrine in 1205. According to the legend, Baldwin was captured and imprisoned in this tower, where he later died.
Trapezitsa is one of the three hills in Veliko Tarnovo, next to Tsarevets and Sveta Gora. The place represents a natural fortress, surrounded on three sides by a river. The excavations of the fortress began in 1879, and they continue to this day. Walking around the hill, there are over twenty churches that have been found during the excavations. You can reach this place by foot or by a funicular, which departs from the parking lot at Trapezitsa railway station. We were lucky that the funicular was still working because it closes for the season at the end of the month.
Shishman bath is located at the northern foot of the Tsarevets fortress, between the churches “Assumption” and “St. St. Apostles Peter and Paul”, on the left shore of the Yantra River, next to the Vladishki bridge. This is one of the few well-preserved medieval baths in Bulgaria. It is called Shishman bath because it is supposed to have been built during the time of the last Tsar of Tarnovo – Ivan Shishman. The bathroom has a total of 6 rooms – boiler room, 4 bathrooms and a dressing room. At both ends of the boiler room were built 2 hearths. A local guide told us that water was taken from the river for the bath because there was no other source.
Gurko Street is one of the main streets of the old town in Tarnovo, which managed to leave even the most jaded in my group breathless. This is one of the most photogenic places in the town, and having a walk along it is a must for every visitor.
Then there was the Cathedral, one of the most beautiful and impressive buildings in Veliko Tarnovo. It was built during 1933 – 1934. The current church is built on top of an old one from the 1840s, but was unfortunately destroyed by an earthquake in 1913. Our guide said to notice that with almost every single church in Veliko Tarnovo there is one turning point mentioned, namely the earthquake that occurred in 1913. This earthquake is the reason for massive destruction in the city.
“Holy Forty Martyrs” Church is located not far away from the Church of “St. Peter and Paul”. In the church you can find some of the most significant written monuments for Bulgaria. It is also believed that the kings of Tarnovo were buried here.
We then took a walk over the Stambolov bridge (built in 1892), to reach this massive monument which is dedicated to four Bulgarian kings. The monument “Asenevtsi”, known among the locals as the Horses, was built in 1985 and has become one of the emblems of Veliko Tarnovo. It is dedicated to the Kings Asen, Peter, Kaloyan and Ivan Asen II and it resembles four kings on horses, placed around a giant sword, which symbolizes the power and rise of medieval Bulgaria.
The monument “Mother Bulgaria” is another famous monument in Veliko Tarnovo. It is located in the centre of the town and it is dedicated to the warriors that have died in these five wars: Russian-Ottoman (1877 – 1878), Serbian – Bulgarian (1885), Balkan (First and Second 1912 – 1913) and the First World War.
Just off the main strip, there is a small walkway that locals refer to as the skywalk. We got there just in time to watch some people bungee off the edge! Locals call it “walking the plank.” Shiver. I adventurous these days, but not that adventurous.
After that bit of silliness cranked everyone up it was time for lunch. We ate while taking in a view of the Yantra River at the original Shtastliveca. It serves delicious Bulgarian staples, like shopska salad, stuffed aubergines, and mixed grilled meats as well as fantastic Italian food. For whatever reason it brought back memories of my first pupil Frankie, and how we tried to find something new or different to eat every day. Made me a little sad but I am happy that Frankie has matured and now has age-appropriate friendships.
After lunch we had to hurry back to the ship and pile on board. There isn’t much time left in this leg of the Mission and I am being pulled this way and that to get everything accomplished.
Chapter 254: Oct 7 - Cernavoda, Romania (Veta’s Birthday)
Did not lead an excursion today and that was birthday present enough. It also gave me time to address our packing. We disembark from the A on the 9th and continue the Mission by land until after Bucharest. And then into the Ukraine. I have still not come to terms with it. I suspect I will simply have to borrow some of Vit’s stoicism since I seem to be running out of my own.
Vit surprised me today with some Swarovski crystal earrings and an eternity ring for my birthday. He picked them up when we were in Austria and held on to them. Austria is the birthplace of Swarovski. It was so thoughtful, especially the eternity ring. Mama had such a ring that is now in Angelia’s possession. I would never embarrass Vit by making a public production of his gifts, but I will admit that at least for today I wore it even if it didn’t exactly fit with my uniform.
Rather than leading an excursion, I was asked to double check several translations. I found some minor mistakes, but they added up to an easy misunderstanding that could cause problems. It concerns me that these types of errors continue to happen as often as they do. It makes no sense to me. No one is certain whether the translations occurred before or after the translators were updated. They aren’t even certain which machine was used. That mistake was egregious indeed. When translators are used, the serial number of the machine is supposed to be attached to the document’s coversheet. At least half of the documents that I reviewed were missing that piece of vital information. I am sure that I am now on someone’s “list” as I took it to Yegor who told me to immediately let Polina know. Chief Ivanov … Chief Polina Ivanov … was not pleased. And that is putting it mildly. And the clerks for the diplomats heard it loud and clear. Security protocols will be followed whether they are convenient or not. It is not an “oops, I forgot” offense. It is one that will get you removed from duty with a letter in your file you’ll have to explain in your home country.
Today we were docked in Cernavoda, Romania. The town's name is derived from Bulgarian - "cerna voda" (in Cyrillic, "черна вода"), which means "black water". Some scholars consider the name as a calque (loan translation) of an earlier Thracian name - Axiopa ("dark water"). The town gives its name to late copper age Cernavoda archaeological culture, ca.4000-3200 BC. Founded in the 4th century by Greeks, the town was originally used as a trading center by the first inhabitants there. Today, Cernavoda is an important transit point in Romania. It is the only Romanian town with four bridges, three of which are important to the larger continental European travel as they cross the River Danube. The town is a terminal point for the Danube–Black Sea Canal, a 64km canal that runs to the towns of Constanta and Navodari. It is a very important canal in the European canal system because it links the North Sea to the Black sea and serves to transport huge numbers of people and goods on a daily basis. The town is also home to the Cernavoda Nuclear Power Plant, which houses two nuclear reactors.
I’ve been too busy to learn more than that. Vit and I were going to try and get off the ship for a quick lunch together but there was no time and he was called to a meeting. I am not a child, but I do wish we could have spent some time together today. At least I know he feels the same so as silly as it sounds, that makes me feel better. I also got emails from the family. Well I got a email from the family. Reggie set it up and even got permission through Dylan. It was a singing card of sorts. How they found time to get everyone together I’m not even going to guess. Those that couldn’t be there in person sang and Reggie overlaid their voices with the others. It was awful … and beautiful. Every single out of tune note. I nearly cried.
Charlie sent his own email. “Sorry about making your ears bleed. Buy hey, consider it payback for that damn purple dinosaur. Seriously, the only thing I really wish is that you were here to hug and listen to me complain. Trying not to dump on Angelia too much. Or Christine. Or Barb. Or any of the others. I’m doing better no matter what any of them might say. Just miss my kid sister and can’t wait for you and Vit to come home where you belong. Happy Birthday Itty Bit and many more happy ones to come.”
I really do hope he is doing better as he says. Derrick sent his own note but … is it me or have I finally grown up in his eyes? Or has he got so many problems at home that there is time …
Oh good Lord Veta, trust that the sky is not falling for once. After all my talk of needing space, now that I have it I complain. Absurd.
Chapter 255: Oct 8 - Gheorghe, Romania
Green walnut jam, sounds rather disgusting to most people but the opposite is true. The delicious jame is a traditional Romanian gourmet specialty. Green walnuts are picked in June and turned into jam in a process that takes many hours of marination and boiling in very carefully choreographed steps. I was privileged to have a taste of the real deal … homemade and everything … in a picnic basket Chief Gunder arranged for Vit and I as a belated birthday gift and my handling of some of the more challenging personnel over the last couple of weeks. It was extremely thoughtful.
Also as a belated “birthday present” there was an off-board picnic, but Chief Gunder volunteered to manage it. My day wasn’t completely work free. It is my job to encourage everyone remaining onboard from crew to staff to diplomatic core and their SOs or similar to pack their suitcases. Those that are rotating out will leave in the morning on one bus to head to a private airstrip. Those that are continuing on the next leg of the Mission will be taken by bus further into Romania, first to Sinaia and then onto Brosov for a freaky Transylvanian tour (at the gleeful insistence of our Romanian hosts) before ultimately going to Bucharest for a few days and then onto Odessa, Ukraine where we will embark on a new ship.
People act surprised and to hear it some have not even started to pack yet. I had to be brutally honest with several of the civilian diplomatic staff. No one will wait for them to pack. Everything needs to be packed and tagged tonight. And they could only carry with them a standard issue duffle bag and backpack and/or an electronics bag that has been inspected and sealed shut for travel. Those that admitted to not having started packing I reported to Admin. If I have had to find the time to pack, etc. then everyone else can feel that pain as well. I’m very thankful that Henry offered Vit an extra crate which we packed our stuff in to send home with the assistance of Mr. Baird’s home office.
I had everything packed and then realized we were out of lip balm. Both Vit and I … let’s just say that chapped lips is not something we like to experience for many reasons. We spent our lunch at a nearby market and found some very good bee products, and not just chapstick. Romania is one of the few countries where you can purchase creams containing bee venom over the counter. Such products are proven to ease the symptoms of joint ailments. Royal jelly is also a very common ingredient in food supplements as well as cosmetics and can be purchased pretty much everywhere, from specialized beekeepers’ fairs to supermarkets which is where we picked ours up.
Vit also decided to purchase some Țuică, Romania’s national drink. While taste, quality and age should be the most important criteria when purchasing a bottle of ţuică, if you’re looking for a souvenir version, go for one that has berries and other fruit for something a little quirky. Henry was with us and said If you’re lucky, you might even come across a bottle containing a whole ripe fruit, obtained by fixing the bottle on the tree branch and letting the fruit inside reach full-size within its glass confines. Goodness. And of course Henry made sure we got lucky. Argh! I had to repack a crate to get it to fit and make it through customs.
I am very glad that Dylan, Devin, and Charlie are on our side. When I sent them an email apologizing for the change and the new paperwork, they strategized who would pick it up, in what vehicle, … and who would be opening the crate so they could get the promised “gift of appreciation” from Vit.
“Boys. You know what Mom would have expected. Share nicely.”
They all sent me laughing emojis, not at all affronted to hear Momma’s words from Baby Sister’s lips. Angelia heard about it from Tal and did her own bit of laughing. I love my family. I hope we can finally and for all time work through the problems we were having that necessitated taking the job with the Peace Mission in the first place.
Chapter 256: Oct 9 - Fetesti, Romania (disembark from the ship in the am)
I have been up since before 5 am, and an hour later Vit whom I tried to let sleep as long as possible.
“Veta, you should not have.”
“Bah! Why do I work as I do if not to try and help you.”
That got me a hard and fast kiss as he jumped into the shower after realizing I had also laid out his uniform and had his duffle bag ready. As it is we have been doing our best to keep the crew members (and their luggage) on a smooth transition.
At 9 AM Vit and I were the last two personnel to climb on the bus that transferred everyone from the A to Sinaia in Romania. After speaking with Admin as well as other departments it was decided to treat it like an excursion and I admit that has helped. Our first stop was at Curtea de Arges Monastery, monastery from Romania which is more about the legends than religion. The legend of the pregnant women trapped inside the walls and the death of master Manole who tried to fly with wooden wings are probably the most well-known legends about this monastery but there were certainly others. And they all seemed gruesome-tinged. There were also tombs containing some of the greatest kings of Romania (which are inside the monastery), such as Carol I, the founder of Sinaia Castle.
Built 500 years ago by Prince Neagoe Basarab, the church became one of the most important in Southern Romania. Its original architecture inspired for centuries that of many other churches, but none came close to it. The consecration ceremony from 1517 highlighted the importance of the edifice. Even the Patriarch of Constantinople and many priests from Mount Athos attended the event. However, the following centuries were harsh on the monastery. Fires, earthquakes, and attacks almost destroyed the church that was also a necropolis for its medieval founder and descendants. To me it looks more like a mosque than an orthodox church.
We also stopped at the Ruins of Poienari Citadel or The Ruins of Vlad the Impaler's Citadel - (Vlad the Impaler - the medieval Romanian ruler whose image is associated with Count Dracula). Be aware future travelers; from the bottom of the hill to up where the ruins are, you have to step more than 1.400 medieval stairs. Is not hard, really! But you do need about 30 minutes for all of them. This is not an activity for someone with medical concerns or issues. Last stop before our accommodations was Vidraru Dam. Situated in one of the most beautiful and wild areas of the Carpathian Mountains, it is the highest one in Romania and one of the highest in Europe!
Then we drove to the hotel that everyone is staying at in Sinaia only to find several errors that couldn’t really be corrected. The only thing we could do is have personnel share a room. Vit and I were no exception but finally, after juggling all names like a professional circus performer, I managed to get everyone grouped so that the proprieties as well as personalities were accounted for. Vit and I bunked with Polina and Yegor. Polina was the highest ranking amongst us with Yegor and Vit next and then me.
“You worry too much Little Sister.”
“You haven’t seen these people on excursion.” She gave me an amused look. “Okay fine, maybe you have.” I muttered about the body cam. “But this way there will be fewer headaches for all of us.”
“From your lips to God’s ears. Now let us go find out what our husbands have been doing with their free time. Yegor was over excited to escape. Never a good sign.”
Well I have to admit it was not as awkward as you would think because in the end Polina and I were too busy trying not to laugh because Vit and Yegor got suckered by some local men into getting very, very, very drunk on tuica. Polina said to leave them to it for a bit longer since we were there to watch over them. They were already going to be hungover, we might as well let them have some fun while they were building their misery. And that’s when I learned of the special social drinking rules in Romania from a travel writer that just happened to be staying in the same hotel.
Do not leave Romania without trying the local firewater, tuica. Made (usually, but not always) with prunes (oh my) and fermented in wooden casks this strong-smelling spirit is lethal yet ubiquitous. Every male in the country has a supply (even if he doesn’t drink it) and will insist that his father’s/father-in-law’s/uncle’s etc. is the best. When made from other fruits, tuica is usually called rachiu. Similar to tuica is palinca, a more refined (it is distilled twice) spirit made usually from a mixture of fruits. Both tuica and palinka have exceptionally high alcohol content. In Maramures, tuica is called horinca, but is essentially the same spirit, although many people will insist that the drink should be distilled three times before it can be named horinca.
Drinking in Romania is completely different than drinking in America so let me start there. In America, I’d say about 80% of the population is extremely prudent and prudish about alcohol, rarely touching it, perhaps a beer or glass of wine with dinner and consider slamming shots of hard liquor at 3:00 in the afternoon to be some kind of abysmally shameful behavior and you’re probably a pedophile, rapist and bank robber as well. The other 20% of the population (in USA) pretty much lives for alcohol, drinks it all the time, is a bonafide alcoholic and quite often does “drugs” along with the alcohol. You wake up at 6:00 am and crack open your “breakfast” and go to work just long enough so you don’t get fired and then race home so you can indulge in your one and only passion in life – drinking some more.
In Romania, it’s much different. The first difference is that “drugs” are basically non-existent, even amongst bums and/or college age kids and so all of the people who might, under other circumstances, be smoking weed or snorting cocaine or popping pills are instead probably drinking. In fact, making your OWN alcohol aka “moonshine” is not only legal here but extremely common, both wine as well as hard liquor. So men not only drink a lot but many of them are quite proud and involved with the making of their own drink so it’s a big part of the culture.
The other major difference is that in Romania, drinking is pretty much a males-only activity. Yes, women do drink here a little and yes occasionally young women out at the club do drink too much wine or champagne but there’s VERY, VERY little of the old “whee it’s girl’s night out and ZOMG I’m so wasted” going on here. Got it? Women drink here but rarely ever get plastered or pee in their pants or flash their boobies in public and all that sort of “used to be shameful but now it’s ho hum” stuff that goes on in USA or Britain.
For men, on the other hand, drinking is essentially a “code of manliness”. It also is something that is done, more or less, without shame. Except for perhaps your old nagging wife yelling at you, nobody frowns at you for drinking or being drunk, not even if you’re in line at the local store at 7:00 am to be there right when it opens to buy a cheap (plastic) bottle of the local rotgut. That’s considered mostly a “so what?” kind of activity here.
There are also some pretty standard “rules” about when drinking is “necessary”, one of which is when a valued guest comes over to your house for the first time and you’re welcoming him with open arms, etc, etc. Drinking is also how men “bond” and pretty much all sins are forgiven (amongst men) if you’re one of their drinking buddies.
Well then. We didn’t make a fuss – I mean they are grown men – but we also didn’t want them to lose face. Believe it or not they made it to the room without face-planting but didn’t make it much farther. We took turns putting ours in a shower and then rolling them up in bed. I’ve never seen Vit this drunk. Never. Not even on vodka. OMG … his breath. It even turned my cast iron stomach.
Polina says regardless how he sometimes acts or speaks she’s rarely seen Yegor this toasted either. We are both trying to finish reports before turning in, but we have to stop and try and not laugh when one or the other snores or snorts. We’ve agreed just one more report then it is lights out. Oh my, there they go again.
Chapter 257: Oct 10 - Sinaia, Romania to Brosov
Vit and Yegor are not in the greatest shape but not in as bad a shape as they deserve to be. On the other hand, I did not go as far as Polina and drop a metal pan and then look at them innocently. After a very painful look on his face Yegor mutters in Russian an old saying. “Husband is head but the wife is neck. Head turns where the neck wills.”
I was responsible once again for treating the bus transfers like an excursion. I wished for Chief Gunder and that’s when I found out he had a family emergency and would no longer be part of the Mission. I’m flummoxed and have no idea how this is going to work from here on out. Will I fall totally under Polina? Or will there be a new Entertainment Director? And I’ve no one to ask and not even Polina knows yet and she is even more frustrated than I since she cannot arrange schedules until something is worked out.
I must remain calm. I can’t let the personnel see that there is a problem. I do note that most of our “problem children” have been transferred. I will have to integrate their replacements so life is going to be interesting for a bit.
Our first stop was The Peles Castle. It was a Neo-Renaissance castle located in the Carpathian Mountains in Romania’s Prahova County. Built in the late 1800s, Peles is home to huge hand-painted murals, 170 rooms, 30 bathrooms and an impressive collection of art and arms. Many of the men found those rooms interesting. The Swiss stained glass vitralios were also a favorite point of interest. The ornate woodwork in the Honor Hall and the 500-year-old leather wall cover in the Imperial Suite were amazing.
We didn’t get back on the bus immediately but instead walked to the Sinaia Monastery. It was built in the mid-1800s and is home to only about 20 monks. Still, the ancient church, ornate gates and dimly glowing candles were all worth a look, and the quiet but well-kept museum located on the grounds houses some impressive artifacts—including the first Bible translated into Romanian. We were allowed to wander the grounds, loop through museum galleries and explore the tomb of Tache Lonescu, where quotes from his famous speeches are carved into stonewalls.
I didn’t think personnel would be as relaxed as they were today. Maybe everyone just needed off the ship for a bit. We ended the bus trip in Brasov, Romania where the sleeping accommodations were flawless, mostly due to me going back over everything and calling personally (and diplomatically). Polina gave me a sly grin and say I am doing so well that …
Boy did I giver her a look when no one else was looking to stop further words. I’m “diplomatic” because I have to be, not because I want to make it a career. Shudder. Besides, I told the hotel staff is was so that there is no inconvenience to the. Okay, so maybe I am getting too good at this.
Chapter 258: Oct 11 - Brasov, Romania (1)
Ayeeee! It only got up to 55 degrees F today and tonight was almost down to freezing. Freezing?! I’m freezing! And now I know why Mr. Baird gave me Skecher boots for my birthday. A pair of rain boots and a pair of timberland style boots. I see several other people have been allowed to change their uniform shoes as well. Thank goodness for my tights. There was a wind blowing under my uniform that didn’t please me one bit. Vit gave me an all too innocent look this morning as I struggled to decide one pair of tights or two. Ugh. It. Is. Cold.
When we woke up in Brasov this morning, I went out of my way to personally compliment the hotel management as well as the cooks for breakfast. Fine. It was a schmooze job. But they were good. And I wanted them to know that I truly appreciated it. Then a couple of BBC reporters as well as an American vlogger stumble in, having been forced to sleep in the bus depot. Oh. My.
I dragged them over and said, “Coffee or tea, they’re both some of the best I’ve tasted. And look at these pastries and the rest of it. You cannot go wrong buying your meal here. C’mon and eat. It will get you turned in the right direction. Admins for the diplomatic mission are due in this afternoon.” They were like zombies choosing which brain to eat. Then I returned to our table.
“What did you do that for?” Yegor asked sniffing his disdain about reporters.
All three looked at me when I had to cover my mouth to hide a giggle. “Sorry. They just looked so woebegone. And telling them admins will be here keeps them out of our hair. Getting them to pay for the privilege to wait in the lobby keeps the hotel management happy. And both of those will make Veta’s job easier so she’ll be happy.”
Vit snorted and said, “Beware when she starts speaking in third person. There is evil afoot.”
I snickered and then blinked innocently (or as innocently as I could) when Mrs. Albescu – the large, busty lady from housekeeping on the Aegir – spotted the reporters and hurried over to insist on introducing them to Brasov so they can write a story about it (and include her family’s name).
Polina looked at me and gave a false scold, “Veta.” All four of us had to practice our stoic-face to keep people from wondering what is so funny. What wasn’t nearly so amusing was having Chief Gunder’s job simply plopped in my lap. Vampires, Castles, and Bears. Oh my!
We met up at the Brasov Historical Center, close to town hall. From there we went to the Rasnov Citadel to visit inside the fortress, discover it's history and legends, and enjoy the wonderful view of Brasov Plateau and the surrounding mountains for about an hour. Next came what everyone was reallyl waiting for, Bran Castle.
The Bran Castle is situated at the entrance to the Rucăr - Bran passage, on the road connecting Braşov to Câmpulung. The towering peaks of the Bucegi and the Piatra Craiului Mountains surrounded us. Our guide told us that due to its lovely landscape and charming people, Bran-Moeciu is one of the most popular touristic areas in Brasov County and the ideal place to spend a great week-end or your holidays. Hmm. Maybe for locals but I tell you most of the tourists there, regardless of their language, were talking about Dracula.
The history of the castle is really extraordinary. It starts in 1211 when the Teutonic Knights – “Ordo domus Mariae Sanctae Theutonicorum Hierosolimitanorum” – a catholic religious order formed in Palestine during the late twelfth century by German crusaders, received Țara Bârsei (“Terra Borza” or “Burzenland” – a country named after the Cuman tribe of Burci) from King Andrew II of Hungary. The purpose of this gift was to establish the Teutons in the area and to defend the Southeastern border of Transylvania from the Cumans and the Pechenegs. The Teutons erected a fortress in Bran (a Slavonic name meaning “gate”), before they were driven away from the area in 1226.
In November of 1377 the office of the Hungarian King Louis the Great – Louis I of Anjou – issued a document granting to the people of Brasov (“Kronstadt” – The Crown’s City) the privilege of building a castle. Through this document, the Saxons of Transylvania (“Sachsen” – a population of German origin that came to Transylvania in the twelfth century), from the region encompassing Brasov, were urged to participate in the building of Bran Castle, which was previously named “Dietrichstein” or “Törzburg” in German, “Törcsvár” in Hungarian, and “Turciu” in Romanian.
In 1388, the castle’s construction was complete. The Castle was built on a steep cliff between Măgura and Dealul Cetăţii. It served the role of customs – holding 3% of goods transferring in and out of Transylvania – and the role of a fortress – the castle stood at the Eastern border of Transylvania and was used in an attempt to stop the Ottoman Empire’s expansion. The castle was inhabited by professional soldiers and mercenaries. The lord of the castle was elected by the King, usually from among the Saxons, and whose role was increasingly important in the history of Transylvania. By the end of the fifteenth century, the castle’s commander also held the title of Vice-Voivode of Transylvania.
In 1407 the case was given as fief (“property given in return for loyalty”) by Sigismund of Luxembourg to his ally, Prince Mircea, the Elder of Wallachia, where he could escape to in case of an attack by the Turks. After the death of the Romanian Prince in 1419, due to the political instability of Wallachia, Sigismund took over the castle and entrusted it to the Princes of Transylvania. In 1441 the Turks raided Transylvania, but they were defeated at Bran. Iancu, Prince of Transylvania, who needed the support of the Saxons at the border, reinforced the promises granted to the inhabitants of Brasov by Mircea the Elder and by Sigismund.
Enter “Dracula” … the real man, Vlad Tepes, otherwise known as Vlad the Impaler. Vlad was involved in several campaigns to punish the German merchants of Brasov who failed to abide by his commands as regards their trade in his Walachian markets. Passage to Wallachia was through Bran, the closest gorge to Brasov, which connects with Targoviste, Vlad Tepes’ capital. The original customs houses at which taxes were collected from merchants entering Transylvania are still at the base of Bran Castle. The relationships with the Bran lords were not very cordial, as they were representatives of the Citadel of Brasov, which were hostile to Vlad the Impaler. It is not known if Vlad Tepes captured Bran Castle. Written documents do not describe it. The documents that do exist in archives with regard to Bran Castle, are mainly administrative and refer to the income and expenditure of the domain of the Bran Fortress, with little mention of political and military events.
In 1459 Vlad Tepes was allied with Bran and Brasov during his first reign (1448) and through the start of his next reign, after the Princes of Transylvania requested that he handle the anti-Ottoman resistance at the border. During his second reign (1456 – 1462), however, his army passed through Bran in early 1459 to attack Brasov, in order to settle a conflict between the Wallachia Voivode and the Saxons, who requested higher customs taxes and supported his opponent for the throne. Vlad the Impaler burned the city’s suburbs and murdered hundreds of Saxons from Transylvania, provoking the Saxon community to seek revenge by later mentioning in reports that the Voivode were a tyrant and extremely ruthless. However, in the fall of 1462, after the army of the Hungarian king, Matei Corvin, captured Vlad Tepes nearby the fortress of Podul Dambovitei, near Rucar, it appears that Vlad was taken to Bran Castle and locked up there for two months. From here, Vlad was taken and imprisoned in the Visegrad Fortress.
Visitors to Bran Castle should make the distinction between the historic reality of Bran and the character of the Count in Bram Stoker’s novel. Dracula exists in the imagination. In some respects the real man was far more interesting and ruthless than the fictional character.
In January of 1498 the Saxons of Brasov purchased the right to use the castle for 10 years from King Vladislav II Jagello of Hungary. The King’s treasury was previously emptied due to war expenses so the king was easy to persuade. The Brasov inhabitants also took on the castle’s profit-making customs as part of the lease. In 1651, after extending the castle’s lease with the Princes of Transylvania several times, Brasov sold the castle to George II Rackoczi.
By 1836, Bran Castle lost its military and commercial importance, after the border between Transylvania and Wallachia was moved to the mountains, at Pajura. Although Bran ceased to be a border and customs point of Austro-Hungary, the castle continued to be an administrative seat. After 1918, Transylvania became part of Greater Romania. On December the 1st in 1920, the citizens of Brasov, through a unanimous decision of the city’s council, offered the castle to Queen Maria of Romania, who was described in the deed as “the great queen who (…) spreads her blessing everywhere she walked, thus wining, with an irresistible momentum, the hearts of the entire country’s population”. The Castle became a favorite residence of Queen Maria, who restored and arranged it to be used as a residence of the royal family.
From 1920 until 1932, the Castle was converted into a royal summer residence bringing with it many modern transformations. The 57-meter deep well of the castle gave insufficient water; therefore water was piped to the castle from natural springs situated across the valley. In 1932, the castle added a hydroelectric power plant on the stream Turcu, to light the castle but was also connected to the towns of Bran, Simon and Moeciu. The grateful inhabitants thanked Queen Marie, to which she referred in her writings: “poor villages, pure Romanian that in a near future would not have had this advantage.” The area around the Castle was turned into an English Park with two ponds and a Tea House. An elevator was installed into the well shaft to provide easy access between the castle and the park for the Queen suffering from arthritis. Other buildings were erected: a guesthouse, a wooden church, staff housing, stables and garage. In 1938 when Queen Marie died, Bran Castle was bequeathed to the Princess Ileana, now married to Archduke Anton of Austria. The Archduchess continued the planning for the castle's future.
In 1944 the Princess Ileana built a hospital in Bran and named it “the Hospital of the Queen’s Heart”, which serviced the treatment for wounded soldiers from Brasov after the Red Cross hospital was bombed by American aircrafts. After 1945, the hospital continued to treat people wounded and maimed in the war and the population of the region. Princess Ileana herself cared for patients as a nurse and even operated in the hospital. She continued the work until January 1948 when Princess Ileana and her family were forced to leave the country by the newly installed communist regime. Ileana moved via Switzerland and Argentina to the United States in 1950, together with her six children: Stefan (born 1932), Maria-Ileana (born 1933), Alexandra (born 1935), Dominic (born 1937), Maria – Magdalena (born 1939) and Elisabeth (born 1942). At the same time, Archduke Anton returned to Occupied Austria to save what he could of his war-ravaged estate. In the United States, Princess Ileana provided for herself, her children and their education through proceeds from lecturing on her life, Romania and Communism.
By 1956 Bran Castle had been transformed by the communist authorities into a museum. The museum had three departments: the Castle – which contained pieces of royal heritage; the medieval customs; and Ethnography – that included traditional houses in the park near the castle. In September 1990, Princess Ileana, who since 1961 lived in a convent and was ordained as Mother Alexandra, visited Bran Castle and witnessed the damaged buildings and loss of some of the inter-war construction. She died shortly after, on January 21, 1991, and was buried in The Orthodox Monastery of Transfiguration Ellwood City, Pennsylvania, which she founded and of which she was the abbess. In her grave was placed a small box containing earth from the foot of Bran Castle, collected when she was exiled. On June 1, 2009, the Castle fully re-entered the possession of its legal heirs, Archduke Dominic, Archduchess Maria Magdalena and Archduchess Elisabeth.
I suppose many people would find all of that history dry and pointless but to me it really shines a light on some of the very issues the Peace Mission is working on and why it isn’t just about today, but about the future.
After the weighty history of Bran Castle we headed to something “funner” as my nieces and nephews would say. The Libearty Bear Sanctuary. It offers a live wilderness experience for children and adults alike though I personally would say closer to children … or perhaps just child-like. Our conservation-minded members certainly got a thrill out of it. And I will admit taking pictures of real bears with their cubs up-close as they ate and went about their normal lives wasn’t exactly to be viewed with cynicism. It is the biggest brown bear sanctuary in the world.
We returned to Brasov on a different route, about one hour drive, and this section was as beautiful as the other. As nice as it all was – and as good as the personnel behaved – I was grateful to return to Brasov. I am no prepared for this cold weather. Vit thinks I’ve lost too much body fat but after saying so he got an odd look on his face. I finally figured out he was worried he’d put his foot in a man-trap. I had to laugh. Though perhaps he is at least partially correct. Wearing three pairs of tights would be ridiculous. Wouldn’t it?
Chapter 259: Oct 12 - Brasov, Romania (2) (Sunday)
Every member of the crew had a day off today … including me. Yes! Tomorrow we merge with some of the diplomatic corp and I think many are frankly dreading it. It isn’t the job so much as the ridiculous hierarchy some in admin and with the diplomats try and enforce. It isn’t in the regulations, it is in their egos. Perhaps I should give it time to see if things/people have changed.
almost wasn’t certain what to do with myself. I “do” excursions every day. Vit on the other hand had something planned … an epic adventure with Polina and Yegor joining them at the Seven Ladders Canyon. Polina and I, as the only females in the tour group, decided to really show our competitive spirit. I think we were both needing to stretch ourselves in that respect. I don’t know about Polina, but I missed the room to exercise like I had on the B.
We left very early in the morning for the dramatic beauty of Canionul Sapte Scari. All four of us were in a good mood with Yegor playfully complaining about the early hour and to wake him when we arrived. It was only a 30-minute drive and kinda bumpy which made it even sillier than he had intended. We started on a short, guided hike through meadows and forest-shrouded routes to give us time to warm up as we got closer to the heart of mountainous area.
On each mountain there are a few available hiking routes for all levels from easy, medium to difficult hikes. We weren’t the only group that had chosen this activity but we were the only one on that route in Piatra Craiului National Park, the host of our day hike. Our route started near Zarnesti and took us into the heart of the mountain, giving time for a refreshing tea (soup) at the mountain hut at 1400m. alt. The return path added an extension hike to reach a great panoramic views. Then it was on to Piatra Mare Mountain to reach the famous "7 ladders" canyon where water "washed" the way through the rocks forming a very narrow canyon. I shouldn’t use the passed tense as the water still falls besides your shoulder at the third ladder. We continued the hike to the top of the mountain for panormic views.
The canyon is carved in Jurassic limestone and located at. The canyon, located at an elevation of 3110 feet. There are some gorges carved into chalkstone, and the name ‘Seven Stairs’ or ‘Seven Ladders’ comes from the seven waterfalls that were formed as a result of the slope’s ruptures. You cross the canyon through a system of nine stairways and walkways. Steps have heights between 2.5 and 15 meters and turn into waterfalls when the Seven Stairs’ creek volume boosts. And it was “boosted” trust me. I’m glad I wore my rain proof jacket or I would have been a popsicle from the freezing water. There are seven waterfalls, the highest being of 35 meters. The trail inside the canyon is set up with metallic stairs and bridges. The route can be covered in half an hour. During wintertime climbing the canyon is forbidden, due to the ice formed on the metallic steps. Lucky for us it wasn’t scheduled for closure this year until November and we got in right before closure.
Dev would have loved it and Vit agreed. I won’t rub it in, not much, but I took plenty of pictures and videos so he could experience it vicariously once we got to a point I could share them. All four of us were pleasantly pooped as we rode back to Brasov and I had visions of a nice shared shower and then finishing our packing followed by a nice, relaxed dinner and evening. Sigh. Nope.
Despite having done a challenging hike, upon reaching the hotel I found out some early diplomatic staff arrivals and word from on high – whoever is in charge – told me I needed to take them on a walking tour of Brasov. Rules are that I needed at least one more security personnel. Vit would have come with me but he and Yegor had to take possession of some personal communication devices that arrived and go over them with the equipment that Dylan provided and upgraded in Miami. Polina volunteered to go with me and it is a seriously good thing.
I really just need to write it out short and sweet and start dealing with it. During the tour we spotted a couple of watchers. Polina, dressed like a civilian, may not have been identified but they certainly spotted me. We had shooed our charges into a coffee shop with none the wiser as to our purpose. Neither of us had our body cams on because … well because we didn’t think they would be needed or useful. Foolish choice but I’m not going to beat myself up over it since Polina, despite her experience, felt the same way. We’d even discussed it before leaving the hotel.
The watchers never approached us Polina had just decided to go in and check on the others and grab teas for us when there is a near miss with a vehicle almost sideswiping me. Without thinking I picked up a hub cap and threw it through the back window of the car as it attempted to speed away. It caused the driver in the car to overcompensate and cause more damage than he meant to and several unmarked cars belonging to Romanian security go after him.
After ascertaining I was all right and no one was injured, the Romanian security people released us and told us to go back to the hotel and if they needed statements, they knew how to rich us. I just bet they do. None of our group even realized something had occurred. As diplomats-in-training they are certainly clueless. We were walking back to the hotel, acting like it was simply a drunk or similar. As we walked along Polina got my attention and said not to look too closely in the bushes we were passing.
Quietly she explained, “Looks like someone took out one of the watchers, probably because they were spotted and potentially identified.”
I shook my head. “I saw him try and jump in the car, miss time it and … and he disappeared. I didn’t think … um … we should call the authorities.”
Polina firmly said, “Nyet. We will not. Let them find him, he is no longer a concern. At the moment I am more concerned with not allowing our husbands to hear of this.”
She’d manage to shock me. “What?”
Her tone was one I recognized. “I cannot be your friend at the moment Veta … in this moment I am Chief Ivanov and I am giving you a direct order to say nothing. It will be addressed by other parties.” And that was the end of that.
“I hate this 007 crap. And I hate worse lying to my husband, even if it is by omission.”
Understanding but nevertheless firm Polina said, “Unfortunately, at the moment it is necessary. As much for his sake as it is for yours. Do I have your agreement on this?”
“You really think the primary target is Vit?”
Polina answered, “Yes. You are merely a tool. My contacts tell me the person we will not mention is quite dangerous, has no conscience, and some even think …” She shook her head and looked disgusted. “Some think he sold his soul to have moved up so fast. He has no other known connections that would have helped him.”
So be it. Polina gave me a way to justify it. It was her call. I was under orders. Yada yada. But I know in my soul that I am responsible for choosing to do this. I will do this for Vit, but I pray that it doesn’t come back to haunt me. Now to try and sleep. My conscience weighs on me. I hope everyone got everything packed because I do not feel up to playing Den Mother.
Chapter 260: Oct 13 - Bucharest, Romania (1) (Part 1)
We have three days in Bucharest before embarking on the next leg of the Peace Mission. Today was day one and it started at an ungodly time. I was knocking on doors and harrying those not already awake (mostly the newer diplomatic staff) and reminding them the bus was to leave at 6 am and it wouldn’t be waiting on anyone. So get dressed, check in their luggage to the bus, and grab some breakfast. Or don’t. But no complaints will be tolerated; neither will excuses. And I was wearing the body cam so any that were made would be reported to their supervisors.
That little speech was in my own emailed orders for the morning and fit in with my mood. It takes 2 hours 45 minutes to drive from Brasov to Bucharest. Most people sleep but I had a great deal on her mind and a ridiculous amount of paperwork to go over. Apparently I have been assigned as interim Entertainment Director. Vit said he was very proud of me. Yegor said that if I didn’t want the headache I shouldn’t have been as good at my job as I was, but he was teasing me. Oh how he reminds me of Charlie on some days.
I was just able to finish organizing the paperwork when we pulled into our hotel and I was almost shocked to find it was a rather luxurious resort, one of the old Radisson Blu’s located near the Romanian Athenaeum Concert Hall and just 3 kilometers from the Palace of Parliament. I guess that was for the convenience of the senior diplomats. In addition to its other location conveniences like its nearness to a metro station, the hotel offers 424 rooms and suites so despite the number of rooms we were allotted, the hotel still had plenty of space and we didn’t stand out overly much. One of the large conference rooms is set up for the Peace Mission to use as it allows room for various groups to meet at tables, some advertising of goods and services of those that have supported or sponsored Peace Mission in some way, as well as an area designated solely for reporters and other media groups. I decided to avoid that area like the plague. Polina said she would if she could as she and Yegor walked down the hall to their assigned room.
Vit opened our door and … well, it’s nicer than almost any place I’ve ever stayed, even with the Marchands. I didn’t have a lot of time and wanted to freshen up before going back downstairs and dealing with another tour group, but Vit stopped me.
“You are pale. And you slept poorly last night. Is anything bothering you?”
I could only answer him with a half-truth. “We have a partially new crew, a new ship we know nothing about, and several new diplomats, and I have been handed a job I did not ask for and never expected. And let’s not even mention that … that very soon I will once again step foot in Ukraine and …”
“Ah. About that.”
“What now?!” I nearly whined in despair thinking all sorts of ridiculous thoughts.
“I simply wish you to remain … vigilant. I have not forgotten the threat that Mitkin poses and I do not know what kind of connections he has in these areas we go. Dylan says he is out of favor so will not have government resources to pull from, but he has sufficient of his own to risk.”
I immediately grew suspicious. “Dylan huh?”
Vit cleared his throat. “Er … your brat is only concerned for your safety.”
I snorted. “Well the two of you may connive but don’t you think your plans would be more successful if you kept me in the loop before shutting the door on the golden cage?”
“Do not be angry Kokhana.”
“I’m not … yet.” Vit got the message, but I still felt (and feel) a lot of guilt not telling Vit about what happened. There was no time to worry about it however as I had to get down to the front desk. Apparently, as inferred by the email I received, I am now a Chief in deed and not just in title. I felt like a circus performer … mostly a lion tamer. While I went off to guide a walking tour, Polina had security to set up, and Vit and Yegor were to meet an old school friend of Yegor’s to try and hear the latest gossip … though don’t dare call it gossiping. Apparently men do not gossip, they were merely sharing information. Uh huh.
Bucharest, the capital and cultural center of Romania, is one of the largest cities in Southeastern Europe. The name București has an unverified origin. Tradition links it to the guy named Bucur, who (according to various legends) was either a prince, outlaw, fisherman, shepherd or a hunter. The Romanian word “bucurie” means joy (happiness), which in turn explains one of Bucharest's several nicknames, the “city of joy”. Other etymologies imply derivations from the word Bukovie, a beech forest, or a certain fellow named Abu-Kariș, who came from the tribe of Bani-Kureiș. Sorry. As my brats would say, my education is showing. I love words … sometimes too much. And the origins of words at least as much.
First mentioned as the “Citadel of București” in 1459, the town became the permanent location of the Wallachian court during the reign of Vlad III the Impaler. The medieval remnants from that period can still found in the Lipscani neighborhood. In 1862, after Wallachia and Moldavia united into the Principality of Romania, Bucharest became the new nation's capital city, and later, in 1881, that of the newly-proclaimed Kingdom of Romania.
In between two world wars, the city's elegant architecture and cosmopolitan sophistication of its elite earned Bucharest the titles “Little Paris” and “Paris of the East”. Unfortunately the city suffered heavy damage during World War II. After the establishment of Communism in Romania, Bucharest saw much of its historic center razed and re-built in the communist style. One of the iconic landmarks of Socialist Realism, emerged in the 1980s under the dictatorship of Nicolae Ceaușescu, is the Palace of the Parliament, a massive government complex of 1,100 rooms.
Following the Romanian Revolution of 1989, and notably since 2000, the city has enjoyed continuous modernization prompted by both economic and cultural boom. In 2017, Bucharest was declared a European city with the highest growth of tourists staying overnight. Today it is evidence that tourism remains a growth industry in the country and the city.
I know why I am out of sorts. I hate lying though recent events seem to be proving that I am a little too good at it. I am feeling guilty. Ugh.
Our walking tour started at the Palace of the Parliament. It is a multi-purpose building which houses both chambers of the Romanian Parliament. According to the World Records Academy, the Palace is the world's largest civilian building, most expensive administrative building, and heaviest construction. The Palace was designed and nearly completed under the Ceauşescu regime as the seat of political and administrative power. Nicolae Ceauşescu named it the House of the Republic, although many Romanians now call it the People's House.
Built on the site of a hill variously known as Spirii Hill, Uranus Hill, or Arsenal Hill, which was largely razed for this mega project in 1980, the building anchors the west end of Unification Boulevard and Civic Center. Constructing the Palace and Civic Center required demolishing much of Bucharest's historic district, including 19 Orthodox Christian churches, six Jewish synagogues, three Protestant churches (plus eight churches had to be relocated), and 30,000 residences.
While the building was intended to house all four major state institutions (in a similar manner to the UK Houses of Parliament), Ceausescu opted to make the palace his personal residence and have the government operate in it. By the time Nicolae Ceauşescu was overthrown and executed in 1989, the building had been almost completed. Some of the initially planned furnishings were never installed, and the last three basement levels and a large clock tower (meant to display the official Romanian time) were never finished.
Piaţa Unirii (Union Square) is one of the largest squares in central Bucharest. It is crossed by Bulevardul Unirii and was originally built, during the Communist era, as the Victory of Socialism Boulevard, but then renamed after the Romanian Revolution of 1989. Although the square has lost much of its historical appearance, it nonetheless is very much historical. Back in the early 19th century, it used to be an important commercial hub, with traders from all corners of Wallachia gathering regularly in front of the Hanul lui Manuc to sell their wares. When Bucharest expanded further south, a large market (Piața Mare) appeared here, which gained much popularity with the merchants from Moldova, Transylvania and Bulgaria. So much so, in fact, that, over the years, the increased market had to embrace a number of designated sections: meat (1831), vegetable (1874), fruit (1883), flower (1885), fish (1887), and poultry (1899). The whole complex ultimately took the name of Halele Unirii (Union Halls). Under Socialism, in 1985, the last remaining section of the market, Hala Mare (Great Hall), was demolished to clear space for the park at Piața Unirii.
Today, the square is a significant transport hub, containing the Piaţa Unirii metro station and a major interchange for RATB buses, plus a tram terminal near the southwest corner. The Unirea Shopping Center, Cocor department store, and a large taxi stop are found on the east side of the square, while the Hanul lui Manuc hotel is on the north side. In the center of the square is a small park with fountains which are particularly popular during summer months. At some point, there were plans to use the area to build the Romanian National Salvation Cathedral, since abandoned, because it proved to be technically impossible due to the busy underground environment and little support from the locals.
Manuc's Inn is the oldest operating hotel building in Bucharest, Romania. It also houses a popular restaurant, several bars, a coffee-house, and (facing the street) several stores. Its massive, multi-balconied courtyard hosted many performances and fairs and was a popular place for Romanian Television crews to shoot folkloric performances.
The inn was built in 1808 as a khan, and originally owned by a wealthy and flamboyant Armenian entrepreneur. By the middle of the 19th century, it was Bucharest's most important commercial complex, with 15 wholesalers, 23 retail stores, 107 rooms for offices or living, two receiving rooms, and a pub. Although Manuc's Inn has been subject to repeated restorations - the first of which was in 1848 – its essential structure has remained intact; of the three surviving 19th century inns in the Bucharest old town, it is the only one currently in use as a hotel. The building was nationalized in 1949, but ownership was restored to Prince Șerban-Constantin Cantacuzino in 2007 and remains part of that estate ever since.
Lipscani is both a street and a district in Bucharest. Nowadays the backbone of the Old Town, from the Middle Ages until the early 19th century it had been a major commercial area. Formerly home to many trade guilds (goldsmiths, hatters, shoemakers, tanners, saddlemakers, etc.), the area's history is still reflected in the local street names: Strada Blănari (Furriers Street), Strada Șelari (Saddlemakers Street), and others. The word “lipscani” means merchants who brought wares from Lipsca (Leipzig in 17th-century Romanian).
The eclectic-style buildings of the late 19th-early 20th century (combining elements of the Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo and Neoclassical) were all nationalized in 1948. In the 1980s, the Communist regime used them as free housing for Romani people, which subsequently brought them into an advanced state of disrepair. The area's continued degradation after 1990 caused the atmosphere of the past gradually disappear. The neighborhood was even scheduled for demolition. However, during an extensive restoration, in the early 2010s, many historical buildings were renovated and ruins of several medieval inns discovered under the pavement. Presently, much of the district is a pedestrian zone. Apart from numerous restaurants and bars, among which is the famous Caru' cu Bere (Beer Wagon), and major international retail outlets, the area hosts a number of architectural gems, such as The National Bank of Romania, the Linden Tree Inn, and the spectacular bookstore Carturesti.
Stavropoleos Convent, also known - during the last century when the convent was dissolved - as Stavropoleos Church, is an Eastern Orthodox nunnery, and is built in Brâncovenesc style. The patrons of the church are the St. Archangels Michael and Gabriel. The name Stavropoleos is a Romanian rendition of a Greek word, Stauropolis, meaning "The city of the Cross". Among other things the convent is particularly famous for is Byzantine music; it has a choir and the largest collection of Byzantine music books in Romania. That would make you think that it is older than it is but, while old enough, wasn’t built until 1724, during the reign of Nicolae Mavrocordat (Prince of Wallachia, 1719-1730). The inn and the monastery's annexes were demolished at the end of the 19th century. Over time the church suffered from earthquakes, which caused the dome to fall. It has been rebuilt but little of the original church remains.
Chapter 260: Oct 13 - Bucharest, Romania (1) (Part 2)
The next point on our guided tour was the National Military Circle. The building has been in place since 1912 and features French neoclassical style architecture and was intended to serve social, cultural and educational needs of the Romanian army. The building contains numerous reception halls and meeting rooms, a theater, a bookshop, and art galleries. The so-called Marble Hall is stunning with a collection of swords, stilettos, shields, spears, helmets, arrows, and statues of winged victories and deities of war. The extension of the Marble Hall is the Moorish Hall – clad in quality wood paneling rather than marble, and a ceiling of gold leaf.
The Byzantine Hall takes its name from the Byzantine-style. The Gothic hall, named for similar reasons. The Norwegian Hall, you guess it, is inspired by the atmosphere of Northern Europe, including chandeliers in the shape of Viking ships, wooden ceiling with beams finished in consoles, representing fantastic animal faces, inspired by Scandinavian mythology. The onsite Army Restaurant has been in service since 1951 and can seat up to 400 guests. As a surprise, we were invited to sit down and have lunch in the venue. It was embarrassing asking if we were expected to pay. I framed it as none of us wanted to embarrass our host but my guide came ready with a letter stating that it was included … for a little free advertising “back home” if we could manage it. That was well within my purview, and I immediately took care of it.
After our lunch we left – thankfully it was in the middle of the lunch rush so there wasn’t a lot of diplomacy beyond me making sure first the staff and then the management understood that their service was exemplary and the food delicious – we headed to Piaţa Revoluţiei (Revolution Square) was was once known as Piaţa Palatului (Palace Square). The former Royal Palace (currently, the National Museum of Art of Romania), the Athenaeum, the Athénée Palace Hotel, the University of Bucharest Library, and the Memorial of Rebirth are all found there. The square also houses the former Central Committee of the Romanian Communist Party headquarters (from where dictator Nicolae Ceauşescu and his wife fled by helicopter on December 22, 1989). In 1990, the building became the seat of the Senate and since 2006 has accommodated the Ministry of the Interior and Administrative Reform.
In August 1968 and December 1989, the square saw two dramatic events marking, respectively, the height and the lowest point of Ceauşescu's rule. The former came when Ceauşescu openly condemned the Soviet invasion of Czechoslovakia in 1968 and started pursuing the policy of independence from the Kremlin. The 1989 meeting, presented by the official propaganda as a "spontaneous movement of support for Ceauşescu", was meant to emulate the 1968 assembly; instead it caused a popular revolt erupt against the regime.
The Romanian Athenaeum is a concert hall. Opened in 1888, this ornate, domed, circular building is the city's main concert hall. Dedicated to serve the needs of art and science, the Romanian Atheneum Cultural Society was founded in 1865 by a group of cultural and scientific personalities. Extensive reconstruction and restoration work was conducted in 1992 and that is all I got to hear as I was pulled away by a communique from Polina to let me know that I was being replaced for the remainder of the excursion as I was needed to translate some rare documents … please. Argh!
I let the guide know, introduced them to my replacements and then hurried to return to the hotel so I could figure out what was going on. It wasn’t a rare document, it was a rare dialect. In this case it was a rare German dialect, Transylvanian Saxon, the language of approximately 200,000 people in Transylvania. Ugh. I stopped, took a breath, and started calling in some favors to help me program the primary translator’s database. I could have reached through the phone lines and pinched Dylan good so that I wouldn’t set off some earthquake with his bosses. And yes, I know that is horrible grammar but I’m not in the mood for it so there.
Seriously, I cannot believe none of the clerks currently with the Mission in this sector know how to program new languages into the mainframe. A few words here and there so long as they are variations and conjugations of existing words in the database but nothing new from scratch.
“And how do ye happen to know how to do it then?” Henry asked, a wee bit grumpy you might say after hearing that Barney likely wouldn’t be rejoining us until Zurich, another two or three weeks away.
“It isn’t rocket science,” I told him trying not to pay too much attention to his tone. “I was playing with these things my freshmen year in college just to make a couple of bucks to pay my rent. If a seventeen-year-old kid can do it, I should be able to train someone else. Do you have a probable test subject in mind?”
From the corner of my eye I saw a young man all but bouncing on the balls of his feet in eagerness. I looked at Henry, he looks at the young man, then nods. The boy nearly flies into the chair beside mine and in under an hour I’d boosted him from being his father’s shoe polisher (his father is a diplomat with a shoe fetish nearly as big as Mr. Baird’s) to being able to do a real job with some penache.
“You have my communicator number?” I asked him.
“Ja, Frau Dymtrus. Ich werde die Maschinen nicht verletzen.”
“Very good and see you don’t. As a diplomat’s son I’m sure you are aware how valuable these machines are. And this is a good opportunity for you to apprentice in the area. Viel Glück. [Good luck]”
I walked out of the conference room and nearly walked into Vit. “Who is that man?”
“That ‘man’ is a sixteen-year-old bear cub that is saving my bacon so don’t fry him.”
“Er …”
“I cannot lead excursions, translate for Mr. Baird on command, and fix the translators because they don’t have every esoteric language on the planet pre-programmed.”
“Uh … when is the last time you have eaten?”
I gave him a look. “Some fluff where the group was invited to an unplanned meal that was served for lunch that I now must go report to make sure I didn’t step out of diplomatic line by accepting.”
“Kokhana?”
“Diplomacy is tiring and irritating and I am not good at it no matter what people say.”
Yegor chuckled and said, “Do not lie to yourself Veta. You are good at it.” He snorted. “Polina is the same way, hates that part of the job. But then again, if people had sense there would be no reason for diplomacy or diplomats and the world would be much better for it. And then where will that leave us? I will go rescue my wife before she turns dragon and flambe the room. Even from here I can see her eyes are starting to glow.” To Vit he said, “Go show her our prizes and have some fun. More of the idiots arrive tomorrow but at least they bring us the new equipment to play with.”
My mood was neatly turned by how Yegor was acting. “What’s with him?”
“He has a surprise for Polina. As do I for you. Are you still on duty?”
“Nii. And I’m going into hiding so they don’t forget that fact.”
“Ah, my wise wife is learning.”
Vit was in a silly mood and though I wasn’t feeling it I didn’t want to disappoint him. He told me to go take a shower and he’d have my surprise waiting on me. I’m still feeling so guilty I nearly cannot stand myself.
I came out, feeling somewhat better to find a bottle of deep red wine, a container of walnut jam, crackers, and something he said was Nasal cheese.
“What?”
“It is a traditional cheese of Romania. I know how you like to try new things.”
Alrighty then. Nasal cheese it is.
Honestly not only the name threw me off. The smell was … um … ripe. It reminded me of limburger cheese. Vit was daring me, and I could tell by the devilment in his eyes. I held my nose and tasted it and yes, it was very good … if very smelly.
I looked it up a little while ago and found this explanation: It is a smear-ripened cheese made from cow's milk. Năsal is produced by Napolact, in a natural cave, traditionally used in the cheese-making process from the Middle Ages. Its characteristics and flavor are imparted by the unique microbiological conditions in which it is manufactured. The rock of the cave and the Brevibacterium linens bacteria which developed in it, the constant temperature and humidity, act on the cheeses produced here.
Vit had a good laugh. He was being playful, probably thinking that he was going to get me to feel better. I played along because I don’t want to hurt his feelings. And I’m glad I did because after his “surprise” he gave me two more. The first one was a beaded bracelet. Romanian women have a long-standing tradition of highlighting their natural beauty. They don’t do this in a showy manner, but rather in a discrete and seductive way. Silence, sometimes, speaks volumes and so does traditional Romanian jewelry. Although not made from expensive and hard-to-find materials, the traditional bead necklaces (“zgardan” in Romanian) of peasant women are striking in their simplicity. Women used to make zgardan's to adorn themselves for special occasions, such as weddings, christenings, or anniversaries. The beads are usually sown on a thin strip of cloth; the elaborate patterns oftentimes demand a great deal of time and patience to make, but the end result is always rewarding.
The second surprise nearly brought me to tears. Hand painted Easter eggs. Our first year we were married we made some together. We poked holes in both ends of the egg and then blew out the yolks and whites. Then we carefully painted them using wax and natural colors. It was a lot of work but we though to add one or two new ones each year … and then the incessant moving from place to place after the old Pembroke house was sold. And they shattered.
I did cry a bit alarming Vit but I finally got him to understand how much it meant to me.
“Ah my Kokhana. Soon we will have a home and you can display all of your pretties and not have to worry about packing them away.”
“Do not be silly Vit Dymtrus. I already have a home. You are my home. No matter where we go, so long as we are together that is all I care about.”
Well, yes, we rewarded each other for being such good spouses and Vit now sleeps with a rather beatific smile. He deserves to. That was some reward. We nearly forgot to use protection. I nearly forgot to mention the Romanian Acacia Honey Vit also bought. Bah. That’s no one’s business.
Tomorrow my work will focus on excursions in and around Old Town and Vit will spend his day with the equipment. The day after will be our last day in Romania and I will have to harry everyone to pack and be ready to embark the next day. And then Ukraine. I don’t know what has me more out of sorts, yesterday’s events or … the rest of it.
sssarawolf
Has No Life - Lives on TB
Many thanks 
I didn't get to read last night.
I didn't get to read last night.
Chapter 261: Oct 14 - Bucharest, Romania (2)
I have felt less frazzled today. Mr. Baird asked to see me during his morning coffee. It felt like going to the principal’s office and I expected the worst; however, the incident Polina told me not to speak of never even came up. What did come up was being interim entertainment director.
“Sorry it was dumped on you without warning. There’s no time to find anyone new and train them in the protocols and security issues. Hope you understand.”
I did once it was explained to me so I just nodded.
“You’ll receive an increase in pay and a slight one in rank, just enough to cover any potential problems that could arise on that end. You won’t be taking on all of Gunder’s responsibilities but there will be some. You won’t be responsible for creating the damn excursions.” I nearly wilted and it showed enough that Baird smiled into his tea cup. “That said, you’ll have the running of the groups and will still be lead on most of them. Rather than just turning in a daily report to Chief Ivanov, you’ll be collecting and condensing all excursion reports into a single report and turning them in Ivanov’s office as well as filing one with the Home Office.”
“Home Office?”
He nodded his head towards a packet on the corning of his desk. “Explanations and codes are in that file.” He paused and then said, “Veta this is no small thing even if it does sound a bit dotty. Gunder himself recommended you. Nothing but good to say for you. You’ll be saving us a lot of trouble if you’ll agree to this.”
“I just want to do a good job, help make the Peace Mission successful, and say with Vit.”
“I’ve no doubt you can pull it off, the success or failure of this mission isn’t just the responsibility of the crew here, and yes, I’ll be honest and say it does make it easier to keep you and Dymtrus together.”
“There’s been … pushback? Complaints?”
“Not precisely. More it is hard for people to understand you are a package deal, similar to the Ivanovs. The difference is the Ivanovs … hmmm …”
“They earned their ranks the hard, old-fashioned way as has Vit. I’m … an unknown quality.”
“Good explanation of it. And yes, being able to up your rank does make the rest of it easier. So …?”
“Of course I accept. Will you still be my supervisor? Will I still be allowed to work on translations when you need me?”
“Allowed? Damn Veta, you could probably shed it all and just work Gunder’s former position. But if you’re willing to leave security and my office as part of your job description I’m not going to say no.”
“I’m open to whatever is needed. The more hooks I have as a crew member, the more difficult they’ll find it to get rid of me.”
He grinned and our meeting was over. Vit was lurking not far from the end of the elevator and met me. “Trouble?” he asked protectively.
“Nii. It is official. I am to play at Chief Gunder’s position but also security and a clerk for Baird. Basically same as I was but more responsibility for submitting a report to the Home Office.” When we got on the elevator there was no one else so I handed him the envelope. “They say it is a little more pay. I’m afraid to look. Just tell me that it helps our plans.”
He opened the envelope then closed it again after the elevator opened and left it that way until we made it to our room. I asked, “Is it bad?”
He went from serious stoicism to a small, wicked grin. “Nii. It is very, very good my Kokhana. I still think they short you but …” When he showed me, I nearly choked. It was like being paid as a secretary and suddenly finding myself paid as the boss. There were some differences but most of it had to do with how overtime was accrued and awarded. It doesn’t really concern me. What does make me happy is that I have an actual contract now and it is connected to Vit’s. We’ll either stay or go as a pair which does have some danger to it, but it is more security as far as I am concerned.
Too bad there wasn’t more time to celebrate but Chief Veta Dymtrus, Entertainment Director, needed to get to work. I had the first group nearly eight hours. We started with a “panoramic” tour of the city from a buss covering many places that had been included in yesterday’s tour, some of which I hadn’t gotten to see; the Romanian Athenaeum, the Arch of Triumph and other highlights. Ceaușescu’s expansive Palace of Parliament was explained to be the largest civilian building in the world, with 3,000 rooms and 24-carat gold ceilings. Then we were off to see the Village Museum, where authentic dwellings from all regions of the country have been relocated and reassembled, including rural cottages, farmhouses and water mills.
Our first stop so we could stretch our legs, The National Village Museum, is as it was described in my paperwork – an open-air reconstruction of the traditional Romanian village. For many older Romanians, entering the National Village Museum is like going back to the childhood days spent in the countryside. For everyone else, this is the perfect place to discover the authentic Romanian village, with folklore elements and buildings originating from all historical provinces and going back all the way to the 17th century.
Our guide showed us the reef-roofed houses of Danube Delta, the simple yet elegant architecture of Moldavia or Wallachia, and the wooden carved facades of Transylvanian houses. There was lots to see and absorb. Steep-roofed peasant homes, thatched barns, log cabins, watermills, windmills, wooden churches, oil presses, road crucifixes and many more. Our guide tried to explain how Romanian traditions have survived intact in some Romanian villages, despite countless invasions starting from ancient times (Romans), going through medieval (Mongols, ottomans, Hapsburgs) to the modern era (Soviet Union) by using a local colloquialism. People from the country-side form a community while people from the cities form a society.
We had lunch at a local restaurant during which we were privileged to enjoy a lively folkloric performance.
After lunch we stopped at a location purported to be Bucharest’s first wine bar, located in a century old manor. Most of the group members were merely casual wine drinkers at best bit we had a couple that considered themselves true connoisseurs. Thankfully they weren’t snobs so much as they really, really, really enjoyed their wine. For instance they spoke of the distinctive “terroir” of famous Romanian vineyards like Dealu Mare, where the wine is nicknamed “liquid gold”.
I will admit to having a fondness for wine myself but mostly for the reds. We were able to taste four different types of local wines, along with a plate of traditional cheese & dry sausages. I brought two bottles back to Vit but had to leave them in the room without seeing him. All the engineers were closeted in a conference room and I later found out they were having fun “playing” with some new portable equipment they’ll get to use without having to install it. Yawn. I know Vit and Yegor were happy but I must admit it sounded like they were speaking Chinese when they were trying to explain it to me tonight. Probably about like how Vit will occasionally glaze over when I get ecstatic over discovering the ancient etymology of some words.
Since Vit was otherwise occupied, I had to grab a bite to eat on my own before the next excursion which I was not thrilled with. It started at six in the evening and was all about the Ghosts of Bucharest. It wasn’t necessarily a bad excursion, I’m just not fond of the jump and scream tours and that’s what I thought it would turn into. I was pleasantly surprised that it was more of a historical nature despite some of the more gruesome aspects of the tales. I’ll note the ones that I remember but there were others I didn’t really listen to as I was too busy keeping the small group together and out of the shadows where my body cam didn’t want to work, even with night vision.
The haunted orphanage on French Street. Urban legend says that on French Street, at the numbers 13 to 14, there was an orphanage many years ago led by Hagi-Stavrache Orman, a man who people said he was pure evil. Locals talk about 203 children spirits who would haunt this house. The children were not allowed to eat until they passed out from hunger.
House of the Devil. The house is located on General Praporgescu Street. This house is the site of a lot of violence. During what is called locally the interwar period, a man killed two women, and the third woman who lived there committed suicide. Also, some say that on nights with a full moon on one side of the house you can see the number 666, a symbol of the devil. Ugh. That is a story I did not care for. I didn’t get a “feeling” from the house as some claimed, but the story created a nasty feeling in the atmosphere so I think, rather than a haunted house, people haunt themselves on occasion.
Cismigiu Hotel. The Cismigiu hotel was built at the beginning of the twentieth century and was formerly known as the Palace Hotel and wasn’t a very well maintained one. It was vacant for a couple of decades until it was given to an arts and entertainment school to use. Legend has it that one weekend when students were gone, a tragedy occurred and the place was “stained with very negative energy.” The story goes that a young student from the Republic of Moldova collapsed in the elevator house. I’m still not sure if that means she fell down the shaft or just what; our guide was not clear. The sad part is she did not die immediately but suffered in terrible torment three more hours. The girl screamed out for help, but no one heard her. It is said that the young woman’s ghost still haunts the hotel and you can hear her terrible screams coming from the elevator shaft.
Chiajna Monastery. Chiajna Monastery is a place of worship located on the outskirts of Bucharest. The location is the subject of many legends and urban myths. One such urban legend states that there is a curse haunting the place for centuries and that during some nights, locals have noticed a gigantic shadow lurking on the walls of the ruins. Basically just a “boo” story that kids would tell. But there are several variants of the legend: allegedly the former abbot had died of the plague and the church didn’t get to be consecrated; others say that Mrs. Chiajna, a boyard lady, killed her own daughter because of some love triangle because of refusing to marry who her family told her to. Another version is that, in order for the Turkish invaders not to notice the place, the locals took down the church bell and threw it in the waters of the river, hence bringing the curse upon them. Nobody knows whether any of these legends are real, but the place is serene despite the gloomy tales. While we were there several artists had set up to try and capture that surreal quality but from what I could see, not really managed it.
Vernescu House. The beautiful Vernescu house on Victory Avenue is supposed to have a few resident ghosts. Three players who had lost their fortune at roulette and then committed suicide are said to have remained spiritually attached to this place, which still serves as a casino. People swear that they move the furniture around and even appear in front of people. Equally strange is the smell of sulfur, which can be felt sometimes in the yard, which is the reason why local residents have called the building “Cellar of the Devil”. Ha! All these legends don’t seem to scare the current casino customers who still come here to try their luck. I saw Mr. Baird while I was there. And who had he dragged with him? Vit. Grrr. I didn’t let them see me as I didn’t want to cause a scene or shift their focus. I was ready to scalp Baird for pulling one of his stunts. I was giving mild consideration to scalping my husband as well. I trust him, I do, and I know he is skilled, but gambling just torques me off as Reggie would call the mood I was in. It took effort to control myself and simply be stoic.
Bellu Cemetery. There are over 300 funeral monuments in Bellu cemetery and almost each one of them conceals a story. Bellu Cemetery was formed following a decision by local authorities around 1820 to close cemeteries next to churches. It was not that there was anti-religious sentiment, it was actually for health reasons. They wanted cemeteries to only be on the edge of town to avoid epidemics of cholera and plague. Many of the funeral stones have interesting stories behind them. For example, at the beginning of the twentieth century, a young couple committed suicide after they found out that they were in fact siblings.
Ciurel Lake. In 1985, Nicolae Ceauşescu requested an artificial lake be built to protect the city from flooding of the Dabovita River. The dictator expected fast work and for it to be finished in less than two years despite it being a massive undertaking. Hundreds of houses were demolished and dozens of families were forced to move. Also in the area was the Crângaşi Cemetery, as well as the Church of St. Hierarch Nicolae, built in 1564. The families of those buried there were charged with digging up the remains and moving them so the project could be completed. The problem? They only had a week’s notice to accomplish it in. Most of the people did not have time to do it, but the construction could not be postponed. Bulldozers entered the cemetery, passed over corpses, and knocked down the Church of St. Hierarch Nicholas on the day of the celebration of Saints Constantine and Helen.
The spook story enters at this point. More than once, fishermen who have been fishing in Ciurel Lake have said that they experienced strange sensations or have had horrific experiences. There have also been a lot of drownings in the lake all leading to kinds of stories you would expect.
Hospital of the Posts. One of the most grisly urban myths of Bucharest is connected to the Hospital of Posts, where it is said that the sick were not treated, but their organs were stolen. It is said that the hospital had private rooms where they would keep their patients and those who has the bad luck of being committed here, would have their organs removed and put into cold storage to be then taken away and sold. Legend has it that the voices of patients who had their organ removed can still be heard in the old hospital hallways, especially on long winter nights. Their moans can be heard sometimes even on the streets surrounding the hospital.
I was done long before the excursion was over. Finally the bus dropped us off back at the hotel. I was polite but I’m not going to be offering a “recommends” for this tour. Ick. And all I wanted was to get up to our room. I walked in and he still wasn’t back but there was a note.
Kokhana, I will try to not be late. Baird has called in a favor. We will discuss when I return. I can hear the wheels in your head turning already. V
I climbed into the shower and had just put shampoo in my hair when I was nearly scared out of a year’s growth.
“Vit!”
“Does the pretty lady need some help?”
“The pretty lady wants to know what in the heck Baird was up to this time. He had you dressed up like a monkey … or James Bond … and you were in the high stakes area.”
“How … er … did someone report it?”
“No,” I told him, only slightly mollified by his presence and his taking over getting the shampoo out of my hair for me. “I saw you. Apparently the casino is one of the most haunted places in the city because people lose all of their money and commit suicide there.”
“Er … about that.” I stiffened but then he kissed a freshly rinsed shoulder. “It was a good night. Between your raise and tonight you will have a kitchen fit for a queen.”
“Vit …”
“Nii. I will not be denied. You will have a kitchen as we dreamed of building at the old house. I will not discuss it further.”
“Listen Cossack, you …” and that’s when the tickle battle began. We stopped when we nearly broke our necks on the wet tile but we were both laughing and being foolish. He did promise me that he would be careful of Baird and the things he gets up to.
“He misses his family,” Vit said in explanation. “He is a better man when they are around.”
“He should be a better man for them when they are not around.”
“He knows. He admitted as such. But trouncing the other men at the table kept him from trouncing them worse during meetings. I believe their pushing will cease.”
Worried, I asked, “Do they know who you are? Will it make your job harder?”
“Nii. They are not with the Peace Mission but against it. They travel along the same route to make trouble. Given the amount of money they lost tonight … and not to just Baird and I … and how they were barely able to cover it … they will likely become scarce for some time.”
I rolled my eyes and pulled my robe tighter. “Hopefully they won’t get stupid and become another bit of the ghostly legend at the casino.”
“Nii. They are not the type. There were a few such men there tonight but, there are always such men too eager to lose what they cannot afford to just on the chance they will win big to cover what they already owe. Now sit and tell me of your evening. I know you do not like such things.”
So I sat. I told. And I got over being “torqued”, but only because of Vit’s promise. I still don’t like Baird playing Chess with our lives so I’ll keep an eye on him if I can. If it happens again I might … no, I’m not going to start involving other people in our mess. Polina already does more for me than she should and Dylan isn't someone I should pull in for other reasons.
Chapter 262: Oct 15 - Bucharest, Romania (3)
People! Bah! Before, during, and after today’s excursion I was once again having to impress on personnel to get their belongings packed and ready for the transfer to the new ship in the morning. I also had to remind them, per instruction, to make sure to keep several changes of clothing/uniforms in a day bag because in little more than a week there will be another transfer.
“It’s worse than herding cats,” I complained to Vit and Polina during breakfast. “Worse than it ever was with the students.”
Vit merely nodded but Polina said, “Some of the crew become wearied. The job you do becomes yet more important.”
I made a face. “No pressure there.”
She gave me her non-smile before standing and heading to a meeting. “You will be fine. There is no need to tip toe through bananas unless you wish to slip and fall.”
I slowly turned to Vit and asked, “She does that on purpose doesn’t she?”
He looked up from a report he was reading and asked, “Does what?”
Oh brother.
Thinking of last night’s fun and games I decided that since I didn’t have to herd cats for another hour I would stick my head in where Baird has his “office” to see what was going on. What I found was Henry looking completely dejected. As Poppa was known to say, there is no fool quite like an old fool in love. It had to do with someone in Momma’s family and the reason is lost to me, but it certainly seemed to fit Henry. However, I’d had enough.
I plunked a tray of healthy food in front of Henry and told him, “You are not going into a decline because Barney may not make it until Zurich. You are going to eat and eat proper food, not just drink swill. I have brothers that are at least as hardheaded as you and I know how to get my way. What will Barney think if she comes in and sees …”
A noise behind me had me turning.
“She’ll think you’ve done a yeoman’s job with little to no cooperation from the look of things.” I jumped and there was Barney in the doorway looking frazzled but triumphant.
“Damn idiots,” she said shaking her head. “As if a missed flight is going to get in my way.” Barney walked over and tossed a gym bag and a brief case on the divan in the room. “Is there a pot of tea?”
“There will be as soon as I can make one. Just please do something about Henry. It is not at all attractive the way his jaw is just swinging in the breeze. I do believe he thinks he is seeing things.”
I of course knocked before returning. And a good thing too. When I was finally bid enter both of them looked a little rumpled and even more shell shocked. Baird walked in wondering what was taking Henry so long and was as happy to see Barney in his own way as Henry was. Well, sort of. Barney brought news from his home and family and I left the three of them “yammering away.”
My day in the saddle was to be a relatively short one, only six hours, because I had more harrying to do to make sure everyone was packed and ready to go. Vit and I needed to pack as well. And I had to be careful not to accumulate too much more as the day wore on. Temptations on all sides as we were doing a walking tour of Bohemian markets and foodie locations.
We started at University Square and our guide was a graduate student so of course we had to absorb all that sociopolitical history before taking a short walk to Strada Batistei, formerly known as the 'St Germain' of Bucharest and the site of the old American embassy. Our first stop was at a restored turn-of-the-century townhouse. Our guide called the result “elegant decay” and typical of Bucharest. Pretentious in my opinion but it was a reasonable description. Under trees and vines, with grapes dangling overhead, we sampled a selection of Romanian entrees (gustari), including goat cheese, cured meat, spring onions, homemade bread, and locally brewed craft beers.
To help digest all those treats, we made our way to the Armenian quarter for a bit of walking. The Armenians were a vibrant and successful merchant community in the 18th and 19th centuries, thanks to their valuable role as 'middlemen' for the Ottomans. Based around the Armenian church, their mahalla (neighborhood) features a spectacular variety of architectural styles from all over Europe and the Ottoman empire: Classical, Belle Époque, Modernist, New-Romanian, Balkanic. Crossing into the old Jewish quarter, we stopped for the most famous street-food, covrigi, a type of Romanian pretzel, before heading on to one of the most beautiful and peaceful areas of the city: Mantuleasa where we stopped for an ice-cold Romanian Weissbier. I’m not a fan of beer in general, but the Weissbier was pretty good, especially in combination with the “pretzel.”
We took a short ride on a public tram at that point, all squished together with locals and giving my spidey senses a workout as we rattled along the famous Mosilor Street. It was here we entered “Communist Bucharest” with its regimented blocks and housing projects, on our way to the famous Obor Market.
Before we could even get in the door we were plied with a drink of traditional Romanian palinca (brandy) to prepare our palates. Next, we entered the indoor market to sample a range of Romanian cheeses: cow, sheep, and goat. After that, it was on to the vegetable market to taste and photograph the fresh local produce. They are exceptionally proud of their produce. So much so I nearly got the giggles, or maybe that was the palinca.
Probably the most famous and typical of Romanian foods — at least for Romanians — is called mici, which translates as 'little.' A kind of skinless sausage, these are served with mustard and cold beer. And finally, because our gastronomic adventure would not be complete without a dessert, we grabbed a sweet Wallachian doughnut before rolling back to the hotel, stuffed like a papanasi … a Romanian cheese doughnut covered in creme fraiche and blueberry jam or sauce.
The smell coming from the dining room where we had our temporary Mess Hall was both wonderful and nauseating I was just that full. I headed right to our room rather than risk my cast iron stomach abandoning me in public. Vit found me there an hour later laying down with a couple of Alka-Seltzer tablets in me.
“Veta?”
“I ate too much. I drank too much to wash what I ate down. I will never make fun of you again. Just make it stop so I can finish our packing.”
He didn’t laugh … but I saw a grin lurking on occasion. But he did help me pack the rest of our stuff and checked on a few of the crew that I worried was not taking the time limitation as seriously as I thought was prudent. I feel some better but whatever is in the water here in Romania … ugh … no more. I am done with the food tours for a bit.
sssarawolf
Has No Life - Lives on TB
Nice, thank you.
Chapter 263: Oct 16 - embark in Tulcea, Romania
I am very glad Barney is back. They had Baird’s “office” packed up and ready for shipping before afternoon tea was over. She also had Henry packed up and ready for shipping. And Baird. And with Baird’s office setting the example I didn’t have near as much trouble with the remainder of the diplomatic staff. And how does it become the Entertainment Director’s responsibility to play Den Mother and make sure people are packed? I’m still not sure how that came about but there it is.
“New job eh?” Barney asked as I dropping off a thermos of tea when I found out the station would close before she could run by.
“Bah!”
I caught her by surprise. “You didn’t go looking for it?”
“I only have it because Chief Gunder had a family emergency and Mr. Baird said it was too short notice to find a proper replacement. I feel like I’m walking on eggshells, have no idea what I’m ultimately supposed to be doing, and some screw up on my part will make Vit’s life more difficult.”
After digesting that she nodded. “It could happen. But use it as motivation and it will be less likely to happen. I’ll keep my ear to the ground to see if anything is in play. And thanks for looking after Henry.”
I shrugged in a little embarrassment. “You’d do the same and … he’s a bit like some of my older brats … brothers I mean. Ridiculously cheerful most of the time with a personality that not even a hurricane can sink. But then something will poke a hole and let all the air out and … it takes forever for him to blow himself back up.”
“Aye, you’ve got him pinned. Still … much obliged.”
The buses pulled out leaving Bucharest at 5 am sharp with a 3.5-hour drive to Tulcea where we were to embark. Everyone was either asleep or working during the entire time. After reading the newest itineraries I have a bit better idea of the job they expect but some ports will still be a bit of “fill in the blank” unless I get more between now and then. This entire next leg is in Ukraine as we sail the Dnieper River. I am really sick to my stomach. Vit understands but is more stoic.
“If you already think the worst, you cannot be disappointed.”
Not exactly the attitude I want to have but, maybe he is correct. Keep my expectations low. Certainly should have kept my expectations lower about the ship. The ship was supposed to be ready but is anything but. We arrived to find that people had to leave their luggage to be taken on for them, but unless needed for immediate fitting activities, they were temporarily put in my care. The word had already gotten to the Home Office and they’d arranged for an excursion of the Danube Delta for 10 to 12 hours. I expected a nightmare but was pleasantly surprised to find that those in my group are more than happy to have another full day on land prior to embarking.
Our journey started in one of the most beautiful regions of the Delta, Garla Sontea using a canal boat. After exploring there a bit we went on towards Mila 23 village where we stopped to visit the Lotca Museum (lotca - traditional wooden boat used by fishermen in Danube Delta). From there we proceeded through Radacinos lakes, Trei Iezere, Bogdaproste (when the water level allows it) and we entered the Old Danube, the Madgearu Canal and after a lot of amazing sceneries we reach Letea village.
We left the canal boat to continue our trip by jeep in order to visit Letea Forest, the northernmost subtropical forest in Europe. We had the opportunity to observe wild horses, oaks grown on salty sand and many other attractions of the place. We reached Letea village, and after a short walking tour, had a traditional fish lunch. My stomach was better this morning so I am putting yesterday down to nerves … nerves and too much polinca … so I avoided it today.
After lunch we explored the Danube Delta which is the second largest delta in Europe and the best preserved on the continent. With 300 species of birds and 160 species of fish, it is a true birdwatcher’s paradise and a dream destination for wildlife lovers. Remarkably, this is also the best place to spot some of Europe’s last wild horses. I took some photos that I hope to post on my blog. Maybe Frankie will see them even if he doesn’t comment.
Then it was back to the ship and the mess I found there in our quarters. Everyone is finally allowed aboard, and everyone is directed to find their own cabins using the packets of information handed to them as they pass through security. The ship is similar to the Aegir, only slightly higher capacity … 210 passengers, 105 crew for a total of 315 … and shorter at 423 feet (20 feet shorter). Our cabin is 164 sq ft, has a small sitting area, but only a window though it can be opened. The main deck and the promenade is immediately outside our window which will require being vigilant about privacy. I’m grateful for the sitting area even if it is for merely a week or so. The “mess” was from our gear being tossed in, and the bed still in pieces with the sheets and linens tossed in the sitting area. The bathroom was … well … small and gross. Apparently the ship was taking out of dry dock just a week earlier and nothing much has been done with it. There was scandalized complaints coming from every corner of the ship. Our housekeeping staff were complaining the loudest.
Vit had met me on the deck when I returned but only had time to say he would help me later. I didn’t know what he was referring to until I found out we’d need to handle our own cabin for most of the time. It didn’t bother me. Privacy is a difficult commodity to find and this would give us more. What did bother me was the look on Vit’s face. The excursion returned late and Vit was anxious but no one would known but me. When he did finally come back I already had the bed arranged by pushing the two twin matresses and frames together, getting the correct size sheets and blankets from housekeeping, and getting the rest of the cabin in a little order, including cleaning the worst of the bathroom funk.
“You are very dark under the eyes. You are all right?”
“I’m fine Vit, just a bit frazzled.”
“No problems?” he persisted in asking.
“None, why are you asking? Is something wrong?”
Vit sighed and then asked me to sit with him. “Mitkin has disappeared. No one claims to know where he is at. Not even his banker has heard from him.”
“Vit …”
"Nii Veta. This is … this is a serious thing. Mitkin is dangerous. I … I am asking you to do a thing.”
Bad syntax not withstanding I asked, “A thing?”
He made a strange noise before saying, “I wish you to wear a tracking device. On your … er … skin.”
Slowly I asked, “Where on my skin?”
Pointing, Vit answered, “Inside your … uh …”
“In my bra?! Vit!”
“Shhh. No one will know of it but me and Polina. Please Kokhana.”
I sighed. “Fine. But I’m going on record that I feel like a dog that has been chipped. At least let’s grab something to eat before we take this discussion any further. I’m not the only one with dark circles under their eyes.”
He agreed and we walked to find the Mess Hall. Afterwards both Vit and Polina gave their reasons, and I’ve accepted them. I know what I look like. A ball of fluff. But why do they forget that if pushed I can defend myself? Vit looked relieved and even a bit happy as he went off to help someone on the Bridge. Polina looked at me and said, “You are not happy.”
I could have said plenty but instead asked, “Would you be?”
She was a moment answering. “Nyet. No. But … this Mitkin … calling him a bad man is not all he is.”
I nodded. “I’d like permission to carry a knife.”
I’d surprised her. I surprised her more when I took the knife in question and put it on the desk. “Devin, one of my brothers, gave it to me to carry after I got mugged my first year in university. Derrick, my oldest brother, was not happy about it so … I just stopped mentioning it. It is ceramic and …” I shrugged.
“How did you get this through the initial inspections back in Miami?” she demanded to know.
I explained, “It was in my violin case with my extra strings. I assume they thought it was a musical tool.” I shrugged apologetically once again and then she did something that surprised me. She started laughing. Polina rarely shows overt humor, but she was laughing very hard before she could stop.
“Ah… Little Sister …” She finally caught her breath. “Carry it. Do not tell me where. But … does Vit know?”
“Sometimes. I had it with me always when we were home. A habit. I forgot to take it out of the violin case and … it now follows me but only when on ship. I think he forgets about it out of habit.”
She grinned. “Yes. Carry it. And I will need to stop underestimating you. I’ve read the reports but …” She nearly started laughing again but shooed me off when she had to take a call.
So I’ll wear that stupid chip because it comforts Vit. But I will carry my knife from Devin because it comforts me.
Chapter 264: Oct 17 - Odessa, Ukraine (1)
Both Vit and I have been emotionally ambivalent about our return to Ukraine. Vit, due to what he now knows of how his mother was turned off and me because it has been more than two decades since I have set food in the country of my birth. I wonder if Vit is interested in locating any biological family? He does not seem so though I know he is a little curious. I should not have gone looking for my own beginnings. Just flat out should not have. Bah! Tell the day as it went Veta.
First, in addition to the abominable chip, Vit all but begged me to promise to keep my phone on me at all times so he can see where I am at when we are apart.It took time to remind him that I always do.
“Always?” he asked.
“Always.”
“You must think me …”
“I think you love me. I think you worry. I love you as well. And I will do this so you do not worry as much.”
“Ah. You love me.”
“I do. I love you enough to tell you that you still have shaving soap in your ears.”
“Bah!” but he laughed when he realized I was not lying.
After breakfast – a hurried affair so I wouldn’t be late – I took my first group down the gangway and over to a van waiting for us. Our tour was a three-hour walking tour of the Odessa palaces which started with the famous Vorontsov Palace. We heard the story about the spirit of Emperor Paul which lives there. Sigh. More ghosty stories. It was more important to me to learn the real history. The palace was built during the 19th century as a residence of a Russia Governor Count. Then our tour turned to the Palace of Tolsoy Family commonly known as House of Scientist after about 1934. It’s famous because despite its advanced age (completed in 1830) and difficult history, it still has all of its interiors in its original form.
The next place we visited was Shah Palace, built in 1852. From 1909 to 1917, this charming building belonged to Persian shah Mohamed Ali who escaped from Iran, hence its name. Lastly on this tour we visited the Literature Museum known as the Prince Gagarin's Palace. It was originally the Palace of the Naryshkin-Potocki family. I took the group back to the ship thankfully. They were … stodgy. I don’t know what else to call them, that’s what they were. They managed to suck a lot of the fun that could have been out of the tour.
I had a few moments and … I should not have … I went looking for my birth village. My day collapsed. I was shocked to find out my birth village no longer exists, not even on maps. It took the rest of the day for the story to fill out in dribs and drabs and I will simply tell it in a few sentences. After the death of my bio-uncle the priest, the church was allowed to become run down and abandoned. Without the church the village lost its cohesion and even the cemetery where my bio-mother was buried was bulldozed over to force the stragglers remaining in the area to move to new settlements when the location hindered battles between the Ukraine rebels and the Russian Army. It is as if my beginning was as thoroughly wiped away in reverse as Vit’s was from the beginning. Vit must have gotten word to them somehow because Derrick and Angelia tried to comfort me despite the distance. They told her to view it as God’s way of closing a window so I wouldn’t have any regrets about doors I walked through long ago.
For some reason part of me feels like I abandoned those people. I know it is foolish and makes it all about me and that is far from the case but still … it is hard not to have some regrets. At the very least I wish I had asked my uncle more questions. The problem is I did not know he was my uncle until after his death and that was his stricture to Poppa and Derrick. Argh. Drama. I am not the Drama Llama or the Needy Nelly I used to be. I am the woman that I am now. But still, part of me hoped to find something of the child I was, find something about the two young people that gave birth to me. I suppose I was looking for some romantic story. All I found was disappointment. I must forever put that away and learn to live with what little I have. As Vit had had to live with his non-past until this new information was put into his lap.
Regardless of shock, I could not sit around and have a pity party. There was work to do. Though perhaps a different one would have been better for me. It was the Cognac Museum and Tasting. I tried to focus, not on the drinking but on the new information I learned. Frank Sinatra loved cognacs, specifically Shustov. Ukraine’s first winery, founded by the Shustov family in 1863, won the prestigious right to label its brandy as “cognac” at the 1900 World Exhibition in Paris. The brand quickly found favor with the Russian royal family—as well as famous aficionados such as British politician Winston Churchill, crime novelist Agatha Christie, and Sinatra. The tour came with a short hop to the museum in downtown Odessa where we learned about the winery’s history and got a behind-the-scenes look at brandymaking during a tour of the underground production rooms, including the distillery and aging cellars. We saw the vintage copper pot stills once used to distill the brandy and a chandelier made out of 20,000 brandy bottles. I bought several bottles for Vit but when we got back to the ship I put them on his side of the bed and left a note to, “Please put them away.” That must have been what caused Vit to wonder if I was all right. He said he didn’t mean to snoop, he was only checking on me, but he saw my search history and it didn’t take a math genius to add one and one together to get two. Especially after he found me in the shower trying not to cry.
“Shhhh. It is all right.”
“I shouldn’t have stirred it up. I don’t even belong here.”
“You belong here,” he said pointing to his heart. “And I am sorry that …” He stopped and sighed. “Your poor tender heart. I would have saved you this pain.”
“No. Better to just get this out of the way. I’ve thought about it a few times after finding out the priest was my uncle but even then there was probably little hope I could have found anything useful. They said the bombing damage was catastrophic. They didn’t have to demolish the church, it fell on its own.”
“How did you find this out?”
“European news articles believe it or not. It is the only place I have been able to find the village. It is like it never existed in Ukrainian public records. What I did find was quite … explicit … and final.”
I pulled myself together and got dressed in an appropriate uniform, something we were once again suppose to wear. I had one more excursion but at least Vit would be accompanying me on this one. I know it was to comfort me because of my discovery but I don’t care. I needed him and he was there. It was an Odessa Opera House Performance with a late dinner.
Odessa Opera House is the oldest theater in the city. I made sure all attendees had a light snack on board before we joined our transfer and arrived at the opera house, an elegant neobaroque-style building that opened in 1887. Considered second only to the Potemkin Steps as an icon of the city, it was the first building in Odessa to use electricity. It was one of the few buildings not damaged during the 2022 Russian Offensive and no one is sure if it is because Ukraine defended in the same fashion and will similar weapons as they had in 1941, or because the Russians did not target it.
Inside, we were greeted by a luxurious, late-French rococo audience hall whose unique horseshoe shape allows an onstage whisper to be heard. With its 1,663 seats, the Odessa Opera House has been called one of the five most beautiful in the world. Many famous composers—as well as the world’s first international ballerina, Anna Pavlova—have performed here. The performance was nearly divine. I found myself relaxing and letting the hurt and pain slide away from me. We went to a late dinner after the performance and I’m glad we all had something before hand as it was a very light meal fitting the time of night.
Back on the ship I tried to hold on to the music and then realized I really was hearing it somewhere nearby. I looked for it and then found it on Vit’s phone.
“Oh Vit. You could have gotten in so much trouble.”
“For you I will risk anything. And it is merely a slight of hand. It is not like we will be selling the recording. Now you will have a memory to replace the pain. Yes?”
“Yes. I love you Vit Dymtrus.”
“Good,” he said with a passionately strong embrace.
Chapter 265: Oct 18 - Odessa, Ukraine (2)
I’ve made a painful decision, but I hope one that will leave me in a better place. There is simply nothing I can do about my birth history being erased. What I now know is all I will ever know, and I must accept that. That is just the way it is and unless I want to give myself some type of complex I must move on. The young woman (little more than a girl) and young man (little more than a boy) who were my birth parents simply never stood a chance. Who knows what kind of parents they would have been. I had the best set of parents for the child I was. I can say that at least. The rest I am leaving in God’s hands and seeking peace.
Other than dealing with the emotional hangover my day proceeded much like yesterday. Three excursions with three separate groups. Two during the day and one in the evening. The first excursion was to the “Southern Gates” of Ukraine using both a coach (bus) and our own feet.
Founded in 1795 on the Black Sea, Odessa quickly grew into a great scientific and cultural center. Its stunning architecture and grand boulevards stand as testament to its prosperity. Beautifully manicured green spaces, long beaches, tree-lined avenues, and leafy parks combine to create an ideal city for tourism. First we drove through the Old Town area. Then we got out of the bus at the top of the Potemkin Steps. We continued on foot to historic Primorski Boulevard and then into the heart of the city, pausing to admire the facades of the buildings. We once again met our bus and alighted and then drove to Shevchenko Park to view the obelisk that honors the city’s casualties of war.
Short and sweet description, yes? The truth is that I was still a bit “hungover” and it took most of my energy to watch over the people in my group. There were a lot of looky-loos this morning, few of them locals, most of them foreign reporters trying to start up a discussion of the Russo-Ukraine Troubles from the 2020’s. To a person in our group we managed to ignore even the most persistent of the protestors or reporters or whoever they were. That conflict ended with both sides claiming victory and there was just enough truth on both sides of the telling that no one came out looking like an angel. So, we leave it alone rather than risk new violence. Not out of cowardice but out of consideration.
I had a cup of strong black tea back on the ship to try and wake my brain up before the next excursion. It wasn’t spook stories exactly, but it had a turn to the macabre. We headed into a subterranean world that harbored an intriguing wartime history. Comprising 1,200 miles of tunnels, the Odessa Catacombs were dug 200 years ago as builders of the city quarried limestone to construct houses. As the maze of tunnels grew, so did their clandestine uses. During World War II, resistance fighters lived here for months, hiding from fascists and even launching surprise attacks. During a 40-minute tour through the chilly passageways (they stay at 46-50 degrees Fahrenheit year round), we lit our way by candle or flashlight, experiencing the tunnels just as the resistors did. At the Subterranean Partisan Museum, we viewed a recreated underground camp where war rebels hid, complete with bathroom, kitchen and dormitories for men and women. We also saw actual radio equipment, rifles and explosive devices used by resistance fighters against the fascists.
In a strange way, despite the topic, I came out of the tunnels refreshed. I remembered a universal truth. As bad as you think you have it, there are those out there that had and will have it worse.
Back on the ship I made sure and write that on a piece of paper and left it to read every morning as a reminder should I made the mistake of starting to feel sorry for myself again. I also changed into a dress uniform for the last excursion, one at which I was accompanied by a very handsome Cossack.
It was an immersive experience on the rich heritage of Ukrainian cuisine while we enjoyed a traditional dinner. Ukraine was called the “breadbasket of Europe” for centuries because of the fertile black soil covering its steppes. Its cuisine is rooted in peasant dishes that draw from grains and staple vegetables such as wheat, rye, sugar beets and potatoes. Our experience took place in a restaurant in the heart of Odessa where, after walking through its doors, it appears you are in an authentic village farmhouse – a recreation – complete with a wood oven decorated with Petrikivka folk paintings, a wooden spinning wheel and pot-bellied jugs for homemade “moonshine.” We took a seat and the willing tried a shot of Ukrainian vodka or a glass of wine. Vit knows I associate him drinking vodka with very not good times but if he could replace my pain with music, I can redefine the drinking of the vodka. I visually dared him and we both agreed to do a shot. We got a round of applause on all sides for the performance we made out of it. However, from that point on we stuck to wine, a wiser choice when cooler heads must prevail.
Sometimes I wonder what Poppa and Momma would think of me. I have changed so much since leaving for university and a great deal more than that after leaving Jacksonville to become a traveling tutor. I doubt many of my school friends would recognize the girl I used to be in the woman that I’ve become. I don’t think it is a bad thing, the changes, the differences, but sometimes I do wonder.
I put my ruminating aside to enjoy being with Vit and eating the superb meal we were served. It was full of Ukrainian favorites, created using authentic recipes and local ingredients. We were also privileged to hear a local musician performs folk songs on a bandura—a traditional Ukrainian stringed instrument. And perhaps the one shot of vodka was one shot too many as I agreed to play on a borrowed violin after one of the crew members – someone that served on the B – let slip that I played and had played some Ukrainian folk music for them.
Thankfully I didn’t get into trouble. I’d forgotten the blasted body cam myself. Everyone actually thought I was being brilliant and getting a shot of everyone in the audience on purpose. No more vodka for me. It gets me in too many situations I would rather not be. I am scheduled to play on the 22nd during a cruising day. Oh. My. I need to go soak my head even if it is cold. This is not attention that I wish. Ugh. Vit started laughing and then his in the bathroom. I still caught him with a pillow when he came out. We both wound up laughing. No thoughts of Mitkin tonight. Hurray!
I dont' think I can adequately express what your stories mean to me. I was having a 'semi-rough' day today, and they take me away to a place and a time that I will most likely never see. Thru your stories, I have been able to visit places that are amazing and even better because they are in my imagination. Your other stories (Del, Doe, Kaylee, and others) have taught me things, so many things. And inspired me to try things out - like growing and processing sorghum for the first time this summer.
Thank you seems so .... yeah, inadequate.
Thank you seems so .... yeah, inadequate.
Love you Moldy. We've been 'net friends for years. I pray we have yet many more years in front of us.
sssarawolf
Has No Life - Lives on TB
Very good chapters, thank you.
Chapter 266: Oct 19 - Odessa, Ukraine (3) (Sunday)
Heaven... I'm in heaven,
And the cares that hung around me through the week,
Seem to vanish like a gambler's lucky streak,
When we're out together dancing cheek to cheek.
So yes, feeling a little silly today. Those lyrics were from a song Momma used to love. Sometimes listening to it and playing it for Poppa was the only way she show her love for him. She couldn’t bear to be touched on some days, it was too painful and she was so fragile. Poppa … he was so sad. But when she would ask to have that playing when he would walk in the door, he knew she loved him even while the pain was taking her from him.
Oh boy. I didn’t mean to get weepy. I don’t want to spoil my good mood. Vit was able to accompany me today. I wish we could have just been on our own, but something is better than nothing and for as long as I can, I want to make the higher salary to help Vit obtain his dreams. And support him. My day has been good. Vit’s day has not been bad but he is a man who is distressed at the possibility of showing strong emotion to strangers, so he was a bit stiff at times. He finally brought himself to read the papers that he was given concerning his biological origins. His mother was born in Odessa but her family was originally from Transcarpathia and extremely insular. So for him, this journey is less and less an academic activity, but an attempt to find a connection he was never allowed to have. And wonder if he should bother with now that he seeks citizenship elsewhere.
“Vit, this place? It will always be part of us in some way. But I have come to feel … perhaps understand … that each of us is a bigger piece for the other than this … place … this Ukraine … could ever be.”
“Ah, my wise wife,” he said after thinking my words over. “Yes. This is just a place but, I do not wish to have regrets. I do not wish you to have regrets. I cannot arrive if I never leave.”
“Now who is being wise?” I asked then I kissed his cheek. “Please don’t be miserable. I’m sorry I brought it up.”
He looked at me in surprise. “I am not miserable Veta. It has taken time but … my beginnings are not my fault. Anitchka’s end was not my responsibility. There really is no one to blame or hold accountable. Not even the Russian government and the orphanage that we were put into. Without the orphanage, well I would not have survived the street at such a young age and could not have protected my sister. Perhaps my life could have been easier. Things happened that should not have. But they have made me who I am today.” He brushed some hair back from my face. “And I would live it all over again if I knew with certainty it would put me here with you.”
And he says he isn’t romantic. Honestly.
At least I was able to provide him was some fun and retail therapy opportunities today, our last day in Odessa. The last group of personnel that signed up for excursions did so to see the Privoz Market. After watching them spend their per diem I can say with certainty that our ship does not need ballast.
Privoz is a well-known bazaar that has both a wide selection of local and international wares. Located in the heart of Odessa, it opened in 1827 and is one of the oldest in Ukraine. The market’s name means “driven” in Ukrainian, a nod to the days when wares were sold from the backs of horse-drawn carts. As a local saying goes, “There is nothing that you cannot buy at Privoz.” The gigantic farmers’ market sells everything from locally grown meat and produce to electronics and imported world goods. We walked through the four two-story buildings connected by arches with forged iron gates that comprise the “Fruit Passage.” It wasn’t my preferred method but to give everyone time to shop to their heart’s content I divided the larger than normal group into smaller sizes. Some went with one of our guides and a security personnel. Another group went with the other guide and my second security person. A third group went the remaining two security personnel both of whom I knew spoke enough Ukrainian that they could help with any language barrier that might come up, but they could also call my communicator for assistance. I took the fourth group with Vit and the few “hardheads” that were making my acquaintance. It all worked out quite well once they realized I was more than willing to help strike a bargain for them so long as they were reasonable and respectful with our hosts and the vendors. There were the numerous stalls in the fish and meat houses where I encouraged them to purchase some nibbles to keep them from shopping purely because they were hungry. A couple from the other groups wished they’d been so wise after buying a lot of local junk food.
One of the snarkier women … well before she settled down and started to treat me like an ally instead of the enemy … did ask, “Your husband. He is … well?”
I chuckled. “The chocolate is for me. The rest?” I shrugged. “He works hard and long hours. Occasionally he just needs to cut loose.”
“Ah. And the … er … stick?”
“It isn’t a stick. It is more like a mace. It is actually called a bulawa, a Cossack weapon and very effective in battle. Many royal scepters are based on the shape of such a weapon. And Vit collects reproductions.”
“Oh. It’s a reproduction.”
I chuckled. “Yes. Can you imagine trying to send a real mace home, much less get it back on the ship?”
She chuckled but I could hear that it was exactly what she had been wondering if we’d be able to do. Honestly. Of course I hadn’t gotten as good a look at it as I thought I had. Before we returned to the ship, Ms. Snark wasn’t the only one wondering how Vit was going to pull off that feat.
Chocolate and weapons weren’t the only thing on Vit’s shopping list but I’ll start with the chocolate. Hopefully describing it will not make me dream of it. One piece was enough to make me wonder how I was going to get it home without Angelia sniffing it out. I’m not near the chocoholic that some of my sisters are but I might could be persuaded if Lviv chocolate was on the menu.
Lviv Chocolate Factory is the only one of its kind in Ukraine. All chocolates are handmade with great care. The factory uses the same traditional production technology as they have since the Medieval era when they came to be. Lviv chocolate[1] melts in your mouth like something truly decadent. It’s like being wicked without sinning. Oh my. Let’s put it this way, there was a sign in the vendor’s stall that said, “Warning, You cannot wipe off Lviv chocolate from your fingers and lips with tissues or napkins. It is highly recommended to lick it off delicately and thoroughly.” Mmmmm. Chocolate.
Goodness, I need a bib just thinking about the pieces hiding under our bed. Best describe the next goodie, Poltava Honey. Poltava region is considered to be a cradle of Ukrainian culture with its songs, language and traditions. It is also one of the ecologically cleanest regions in Ukraine, and as a result has become the perfect spot for bee farming. Poltava honey is one of the most popular in Ukraine and abroad, and has a unique flavor, a mixture of buckwheat, herbs and prairie flowers.
And have we ever left a place without trying the “local fire water”? Vit is already fond of Horilka, or so he tells me. I heard him talking to Henry about it our first day in port. It has quite as history, dating back to the 16th century. It is essentially a 40% solution of ethyl alcohol to water. Eye watering. The main difference between vodka and horilka is that the later utilizes peppers, thus making it burn (hority in Ukrainian) in your mouth and all over your body. In addition to pepper, some recipes also contain honey. It gives the horilka a soft taste and eliminates the alcohol (read fuel) smell. It is recognized as the purest drink in the world, or so claim the makers. I asked if it was similar to Everclear and some of the men in the discussion snorted saying that Everclear was for women. Sure it is. I heard big talk. I decided to test the theory and tossed back a shot, managed to keep my face straight and then said to all, “Nice. It’ll at least clear your sinuses.” I walked away and all the men stared at Vit. He told me it was very difficult to keep his composure.
When he walked back over to me I said, “Yes, well you need to find me something with butter in it. Soon. I do not like this peppery drink one single bit.”
“Butter?”
“It works when I eat too many hot peppers.”
“Ah. Perhaps a lady’s … er … powder room?”
What goes down must sometimes come up. And that is exactly what I let happen with that pepper water. Bleck. I came out of the stall to find one of the other women that had seen me “toss it back” trying not to dissolve into giggles. I asked, “Did Vit semd you to check on me?”
She nodded, tears streaming down her face. “Oh tell me they got that on film,” she said pointing to where she thought the body cam was.
“The toss in? Yes. It coming back out? No. It gets turned off in the restroom or other such locations.”
She finally lost it and had to laugh or have apoplexy. I then had to explain to the monitor that was taking care of the restroom at the time. She started laughing too, as did some of the other women in there. Glad to make everyone’s day. They all said, “We won’t tell. The look on their faces when you did it was just too …” Giggle, snort, laugh.
I left and tried to return to Vit and our group only to find a commotion over by the vendor’s stall. “Oh my. What happened?”
Vit asked in an odd voice, “You are well?”
“Of course. Why?”
I heard a moan and saw a vaguely familiar young man on the ground just that moment coming around. “Oh Dear, I hope I didn’t start something. He needs something solid in his …” The young man suddenly sat up and grabbed the nearest trash bin. “Never mind.”
The men were all laughing and slapping Vit on the back saying Peace Mission personnel could come to the market any time they wanted to. We were good fun. I later found out Yegor was heard to mutter, “Never go up against her. No. I won’t speak of it. Just trust me, never go up against her.”
The last of Vit’s purchases were not consumable but clothing. A Ukrainian vyshyvanka is not only a national symbol of the country but is also a real piece of art. The story of vyshyvanka goes back centuries, but no one knows exactly when the first one appeared. There has been embroidery in this area of the world since before the birth of Christ. Vyshyvanka is a traditional item of clothing, usually a shirt or a blouse, made from linen and decorated with embroidered patterns. Ukrainian vyshyvanka have long played the role of a talisman against the dark forces. It was believed that the embroidery on the chest protects the human soul from destruction, decay and dying. Embroidery on the shoulders, especially in menswear, empower and defend against enemies. I embroidered Vit one when we were first together, he wore it as his wedding shirt. He still cherishes it and it is wrapped in acid-free tissue paper and is in the same box as my “wedding dress.” I also have a night shirt in the vyshyvanka design that Vit is quite fond up but for a … er … different reason. I don’t know what possessed him to purchase what he did. Some of the pieces were traditional and some were more modern. He bought them for both of us. I notice he paid particular attention to the ones with a label that said “made in Ukraine.” The women running the booth were very happy with the sale. They folded all of them up and put them in a shipping box and I know that’s going to be sent home, but I haven’t got the foggiest idea when.
I dared anyone to complain about having to carry all their purchases. As it was some were only limited by their faraday bag and how well they could pack. Vit is lucky I was willing to play pack mule for some of his or even he would have been at pains to find a way to get them back to the ship and through security. Luckily for everyone the end point for the morning’s excursion was the pier and that I had warned security beforehand so they could run things back and then return to me if they were on the next excursion. Most were not so I didn’t have to justify the stop too much.
Vit returned triumphant. He’d called Polina and told her he’d been able to get the chocolates she’d requested. Oh. So that was the reason for the ridiculous amount. Yegor’s appetite is legendary. He would even give Angelia a run for her money. In exchange, she turned a blind eye to some of his purchases. Tit for tat. None would be used to the detriment of the Pease Mission and it is good to have friends in interesting places.
Our afternoon excursion was to Akkerman, one of the region’s most strategically important fortresses. The 13th-century Akkerman Fortress, also known as Bilhorod-Dnistrovskyi, is an imposing citadel that dramatically overlooks the Black Sea. Its sweeping view of the Dniester River estuary as it spills into the sea gave King Stefan I an advantage over the ever-threatening Turks. However, the Turks prevailed in 1484 and gave the fortified town its current name. At the fortress, surrounded by walls stretching more than a mile and a 20-foot-deep moat, we toured three courtyards, the residential wings, the garrison and the arsenal before being given some free time and the run of the place to take photos and have a picnic tea that for Vit and I doubled as the lunch we’d missed while traveling to and from the market. As soon as I got the last personnel aboard the ship weighed anchor and pulled away from the pier.
No more quick reports that I turned over to someone else. Now it is myself alone that must gather all of the excursion reports, assuming there are any others, and put all of the information into a form that fits both the demands of the Home Office and the usefulness of our onboard security office. I also needed to collate any onboard entertainment though I know there will be little of that. Polina gave me a few requests for info that needed to be changed around and since it didn’t conflict with the report format the Home Office needed I was able to incorporate it into the template that I have created. Vit came to find me when I didn’t show up for dinner, took one look at my face and said, “Ah. The reports. Now you sympathize?”
“I always sympathized. I just didn’t know how close to murder you must have been a few times.” He chuckled when I eyed the letter opener on one corner of the desk that I had been given to use. I then said, “Please tell me I haven’t kept you from eating.”
“Nii. But now you will eat. Yes?”
“As soon as the computer understands I mean for it to send the blasted report, not make copies of it and send to locations I didn’t not request it to go. It keeps trying to go to the wrong parties and I have to stop it and start all over again.”
Vit became serious and walked around the desk. “May I?”
I gave him a look the question deserved and said, “Of course.”
After a moment he cursed very creatively and said, “Chiefs Ivanov needs to be informed.”
Turns out I had inadvertently caught someone trying to hack the ship’s computers. It was traced, the personnel and staff dealt with, and I finally got something to eat but only because Vit walked into the kitchen and made it himself.
Scandalized I yelped, “You didn’t!”
“I did. Exceptions must be made. If they will not do it then there will be consequences. Now eat. You are too thin.”
“And you are bossy,” I retorted taking a huge, grateful bite of the omelet he’d fixed me. “And a wonderful cook and a better husband.”
“Ah, you notice.”
We were being a little silly, but I knew tomorrow he and Yegor would be playing with the toys Dylan sent. Sigh. Why won’t people stop? We aren’t telling anyone what to do, we are simply trying to get them to talk to each other so problems can be resolved without violence to the mutual benefits of all parties involved. We aren’t asking for gratitude for Heaven’s sake, just a little cooperation.
As Poppa used to say, Peoples is peoples. It is from Fiddler on the Roof. And very apropos these days. I am turning in. Tomorrow looks to be wicked busy between one thing and another and I don’t want Vit to start suggesting that he will call Derrick if I lose another ounce.
[1] Lviv Handmade Chocolate
larry_minn
Contributing Member
Am I the only one who gets tired thinking about all the walking? But would love to see 25% of this.
Chapter 267: Oct 20 - Kherson, Ukraine
Not much time to write because I’m already writing. Reports, reports, reports. I’m also looking over the ports and itineraries as far in advance as they allow me to have the information.
As for today? After breakfast, the group I led disembarked for a tour of the small city of Kherson, Ukraine. It was founded in 1778 by order of Catherine the Great (of Russia) and named after the nearby ancient Greek colony of Chersonesos Taurica. We walked along the river embankment to see the monument to Prince Potemkin and visit St. Catherine’s Cathedral (more Mediterranean looking than anything I’ve seen in the area). We visited the local craft market where all the wares reminded me more of what I saw in Russia than what I saw in Odessa. Colorful fabric, nesting dolls, and decorative housewares. While most of the group purchased tchotchkes in the market, I did not. Most of it simply did not catch my interest. I’m certain had Angelia been here she would have filled a steamer trunk with some of the fabric but … I just couldn’t. Too much on my mind and I was too aware of the blasted chip in my bra that kept digging into me. I will continue wearing it for Vit’s sake, but we are finding a new location for it, or at least a better one that doesn’t make me feel like I’d prefer to have a wardrobe malfunction just to get the point out of where it was pointing.
I hustled the first group back to the ship so they could eat and grabbed the next group as soon as the last personnel showed up ahead of schedule. They’ve learned if they do, I always try and make an extra stop even if it is just for coffee, tea, or some type of sweet or goodie.
This group was mostly male and I let our male guide lead without much input because of that. I’m not the least bit embarrassed or shy, but as my sisters say boys will be boys and sometimes they need to be allowed to be that very thing to keep life interesting. I wasn’t looking for interesting. But I wasn’t looking to be their mother either.
We toured Kherson’s main sights, then browsed the market before heading to the purpose of our excursion, the shipyard. Nicknamed “The Cradle of the Black Sea Fleet,” Kherson’s shipyards played an important role in building both the Imperialist and Soviet navies. Today, it is Ukraine’s largest port and home to many river barges, sailing ships and ocean freighters and tankers. There is a Monument to Shipbuilders that was interesting as it commemorates the long tradition upon which the city was built. Lots of photos were taken, including some by me. Nearby we admired the preserved fortifications of the city and the arsenal. Afterward we headed back to the market to explore it more at leisure and to make purchases.
Then it was back on the ship so we could sail away early to get to the locks on time. Vit was still on duty and I started my report. That’s when I spotted it. Someone – turned out to be Barney – had left something on my desk. It was an old and well-used Dammit Doll. Charlie used to have one in his office until Patrice made him get rid of it because it offended her mother. Derrick wasn’t particularly fond of it either because I’d found it when I was young enough not to understand what I was saying.
Whenever things don’t go well,
And you want to hit the wall and yell,
Here’s a little dammit doll,
That you can’t do without.
Just grasp it firmly by the legs,
And find a place to slam it.
And as you whack the stuffing out,
Yell dammit, dammit, dammit.
Well I wasn’t about to yell curses so everyone on the ship could hear me, but the doll did get a work out. I got pretty good at throwing it across the small space and making it stick to various surfaces. The last surface it stuck to was the front of Vit’s uniform.
He peeled it off and gave it an amused look. “A voodoo doll?”
Embarrassed to be caught having a tantrum I mumbled, “A dammit doll.”
“A what?”
I explained it to him and he looked it over closely. “I may request one for my Claus sock.”
“Christmas stocking you goof and you know it. Make this computer work before I throw it around as much as that doll. Please. And how was your day?”
“What is wrong with it? You are usually the one that fixes the tech gear.”
I sighed. “I know. That’s why I’m irritated. It won’t let me in no matter how many times I request a new password. It keeps locking me out. Like I offended it or something.”
Well Security had installed a spy program without explaining things. It was an easy fix and I was left even more embarrassed.
“You are just tired. Were the groups difficult?”
“Nii. This … this being so responsible … I’m afraid of failing and … becoming a problem for you.”
“Nii Kokhana. Trust me on this. Why do you think Gunder was so worried you were … hmm … bucking for a new assignment? You are good at what you do. Better than the position you have held so long now. Your experience is above the others that wanted the job.”
“There were others? Baird made it seem …” I didn’t know what to say.
Vit glossed over that and told me more. “So the rumors go so give yourself some credit. They get you at a bargain rate even increasing your pay as they did. You are still paid below what such a rank and position should be getting. And then there are your other responsibilities. I would say something but … I do not wish to see you taken away from me.”
“What? As if they could.”
“They could. They nearly have. More than once.”
“No.”
“Yes. I’ve heard talk since leaving the B. So,” he toed the office door closed and then kissed me. “Do your job but do not let them lure you into anything. You are under contract to the Peace Mission, luckily Baird made sure to tie us together with your new one. Before they could have used force of law to send you one direction and me another.”
It was a lot to come to terms with. Vit had more on his mind than I was giving him credit for. I had thought to ask about putting off the chip that makes me feel like a runaway mutt but I won’t. Not now when I know how much he’s worried, that he is worrying. And not just about Mitken.
Chapter 268: Oct 21 - Zaporozhye, Ukraine
After Vit went on duty last night I took a little trip over to what most of us are called “Diplomat Row” and caught Baird in. I let him in on the fact that I knew there had indeed been others considered for the job contrary to what he’d inferred and understood that mostly I’d been picked because I was too stupid to know better and ask for a higher salary.
“I’ll keep my mouth shut. I like where I am at and I like that it keeps me with Vit. And I like you and know Vit and I owe you … some. But I don’t like being lied to like I couldn’t handle the truth. I don’t want to play poker with you. I’d lose and lose badly. But at least give me a concession.”
Suspiciously he asked, “And that’d be?”
“Have Vit come with me tomorrow. It’s about Cossacks.”
Baird leaned back in his chair and surprised me by looking startled. “That’s all? Ye’re not asking for anything else?”
“What? I told you I like my place and I like staying with Vit. A concession over the salary doesn’t bother me. I already get enough overtime that HR squeaks and I don’t see that changing giving what is expected of me. But this learning of his past, Vit needs this. I need it for him.”
“I heard they bulldozed your birthplace.”
I shrugged. “There never was much hope I’d find a connection anyway. I …” I shrugged again. “It is what it is. There’s no changing it. As far as I know there were no relatives for me to look up anyway. I just want to see what I had missed as a blind and deaf child. That’s not happening so I’m focusing on Vit. I just don’t want to rub his face in it.”
After a moment Baird nodded. “Wouldn’t particularly want my weaknesses out for the world to see either.”
“Vit isn’t weak. And what he has isn’t a weakness. It’s … it’s a gap. I want to help fill it with good things.”
“Understood. I’m make it happen. Keep the other between the two of us and … I’ll see what else I can do so long as its reasonable.”
“I won’t abuse it.”
“I know, or you’d get nothing from me. Go and let me make some phone calls before Dymtrus finds out his wife is a sneaky woman.”
I shrugged. “My brothers have already tried to explain it. He insists on thinking the best of me anyway.”
We both smiled in understanding.
Baird was as good as his word. After breakfast this morning we toured Zaporozhye, ancestral home of the Cossacks. And Vit was with me much to his bemusement.
“They were short a security personnel. Baird arranged for me to add the number. He knows about the Mitkin situation. He says this way I can keep an eye on you … er … you know what I mean.”
I just smiled. But on the inside I decided that while Baird was as good as his word, he wasn’t above making himself look better than he is. I will be careful of any future “assistance” I get from him.
We drove along the six-mile long Cathedral Prospect to see the dam and the city’s massive hydroelectric plant, including its massive turbines that are visible through the windows. From there we visited the Cossack Museum of Khortitsa that started out as a Cossack fortress. Once there we and enjoyed a special Cossack horsemanship show full of daring acrobatics accompanied by folkloric music and dance. Local craftsmen ply their trade here as well, giving you an opportunity to learn about the handmade goods created by generations past and to select a favorite to purchase as a keepsake.
It took me forever but I finally convinced Vit that it was not a waste for him to purchase a set of small, metal models of Cossacks from the 17th century. Most of them were mounted on horses but some stood in battle ready form and dress.
“It would please me greatly to see you in such a dress,” he said not much later, pointing out a red dress embroidered in turquoise in the vyshyvanka style.
“Then I will make one when we return home, embroider it myself as I did your wedding shirt. Then I will make you a shirt to match. We will be quite a pair.”
He knew what I was doing but let it slide merely adding, “You will remember the …?”
“The tassles? Yes.” And we went on to look at other things while I at the same time was constantly making sure that our group wasn’t getting in trouble. None were but I could not say the same of some visitors at the site, in particular a group that appeared to be Chinese. They weren’t part of the Peace Mission so they had to be civilians. Rude civilians and I hope they were mistaken to be part of our group.
After the equestrian show – which I was enthralled with – we headed back to the city. Zaporozhye is the sixth largest city in Ukraine and there was a lot to see. Our guide provided some orientation but mostly what people did was look. We traced its main thoroughfare—the longest street in the city—to the city’s central park. It was a pleasant green space adorned with stone sculptures. We stopped there for photos, then continued back to the ship after a brief panoramic tour from the bus.
Back on the ship Vit seemed thoughtful and I caught him looking at the little metal soldiers several times before resolutely putting them away.
“Wait,” I told him catching his attention. “Do not fuss.”
I handed him a simple wooden box whose only adornment was a picture of a Cossack burned into the lid.
“When did you …?”
I shrugged. When you were buying the soldiers and wouldn’t buy the other container for them. This one suits them better don’t you think?”
The box was lined with a faux velveteen and he put the soldiers in and everything fit like a glove.
“Do you like?” I asked him.
“I like,” he said huskily and that’s about all the conversation we needed. Vit sleeps peacefully and I hope the shadows will leave his eyes tomorrow. At least for a while.
Chapter 269: Oct 22 - Cruise the Dnieper River
There is not much to write today and I’m not sure why I even make the effort except I don’t want to break my streak. Today we have cruised the Dnieper River. It is like a sea day only floating along the river. I spent most of the day doing translations for Mr. Baird, as well as doing our laundry. The housekeeping staff are not sure what to make of me. They are not unfriendly, especially after they realize I can speak their language, but they have expectations of what an officer does … and doing their own laundry and cleaning their cabin is not one of them. Playing for both personnel and staff regardless of rank was also not something they expected.
I did not play long, only about forty-five minutes after the Mess Hall closed for the night, but I believe everyone enjoyed it. I kept it lively and fun, tried to steer clear of the more serious pieces. Vit is not the only person on the ship that appeared to need it.
As for Vit, he is relaxed because Mitkin cannot get to me while I am on the ship. Mitkin is becoming an obsession and I don’t like it. It leaves Vit with a fevered look in his eyes. I will try more distraction when he gets in from the Bridge. Anything to keep him from worrying. Tomorrow is Kiev and memories of the Russo-Ukrainian Conflict will be on everyone’s minds.
Chapter 270: Oct 23 - Kiev, Ukraine (1)
I had a funny happen today. Vit did not think so but I’ll tell it later as I run through the day. He is simply tense because he cannot be with me and protect me at all times. He worries. Mitkin. Bah! He no longer makes me afraid, he is making me angry. This should be a good time for Vit, discovering his heritage. Instead he worries. And worries and worries. I could just slap … no. I refuse to allow that Mitkin to control me like he already controls Vit. Vit knows this and at least he tried tonight. I reminded him that this could be part of Mitkin’s plan, to make him so unhappy. At least he listened to reason a little.
The excursions that I led today were the … er … more eclectic ones. There were a couple of panoramic tours … introduction to the city via a bus with only a few stops, and those are what most signed up for … but those were run by a tour company with security staff as ride alongs. And mine started in the same way but went … further.
Kiev, known as the “Mother of Cities,” has a rich heritage of Viking and Cossack tradition. We drove down the broad, tree-lined boulevard of Khreshchatyk Avenue, passing the great Monument of Independence and the Church of St. Andrew. We finally arrived at the stunning St. Sophia Cathedral and enjoyed a guided tour of this Byzantine wonder. Despites fears that it was going to be damaged in the Russo-Ukrainian Conflict, the Russian troops avoided damaging most churches. The truth is that Ukraine did more damage in that respect when the leader at the time took up arms against the Orthodox faith in retaliation of Russian aggression. It bled over into most churches were not tolerated and gave “permission” for certain factions to run roughshod over religious buildings and their congregations. It is sad how many times I have seen that happen in my travels. Motivation and actions of one faction is used by another to persecute rather than protect
Access to the building for religious purposes started to be curtailed by the government in 1934. Many times the government promised to return it to the Orthodox Church but they never completed their promise. By 1995 the last religious service – a funeral of an important church leader – was held and ever since the building has been used strictly for secular purposes. For decades it has remained a museum and nothing more despite the efforts to maintain its architectural and historical integrity. The Cathedral is crowned with 13 glimmering domes, adorned with mosaics of 177 different colors and graced with enormous frescoes. It was originally built in 1037 to commemorate the victory of Prince Yaroslav the Wise over the Petcheneg tribes.
Then we visited the Monastery of the Caves, another Eastern Orthodox complex of domed churches and museums founded by ascetic monks in 1051. Its Ukrainian name, Pechersk, comes from the underground passages and chapels dug into the adjacent rocks centuries ago.
Many important people are buried in the caves and under some of the buildings including Pope Clement I’s head. Pope Clement I was one of the first popes and he served in that position from 88 AD – 99 AD and there is some evidence to believe that Clement I was consecrated to service by none other that Peter the Apostle. Before becoming Pope, he was the second or third Bishop of Rome after Peter. According to tradition, Clement was imprisoned under the Emperor Trajan; during this time he is recorded to have led a ministry among fellow prisoners. Thereafter he was executed by being tied to an anchor and thrown into the sea while exiled in Greece. His body was collected by some of the faithful and sort of – assuming I understand it – divided up amongst several locations and that is how his head wound up in Pechersk.
Our tour was of the main cathedral and the subterranean, low-ceiling labyrinth lined with the remains of mummified monks. Though Pechersk is still considered a religious complex, and several church leaders have used it as their residence in the last couple of decades, the government also controls it. It is an uneasy partnership with frequent disagreements.
It is between this first excursion and the next that the funny thing occurred. It has left me smiling off and on all day. Our guide stopped to allow those that wished to to take some pictures around a typical residential neighborhood. All I asked of them was that they did not take pictures of people without their permission. I was standing there keeping an eye on my people when I hear some boys calling out to Titka Dymtrus or Auntie Dymtrus. Well of course the name caught my attention and then I watched this older woman take a swat at a boy’s behind with her broom. It reminded me a lot of what Momma used to be able to do when the boys would tease her out of patients. A church bell started ringing and the woman started calling.
“Vadim, Vladislav, Vanko, Vasyklo, Vasily!! Come clean up!!” It tickled my funny bone and I lost my stoic composure.
It was at that point that one of the boys noticed me and rather militantly asked me what I was laughing at. Ignoring the boy’s rudeness I apologized to the woman. Still smiling I explained that my husband’s name is Vit … Vit Dymtrus … and I could just imagine him being as mischievous as her boys were. The old lady scolded the boy who sullenly apologized before running off and then asked me for Vit’s family. I had to apologize and explain that I didn’t really know, and neither did he, because he’d been raised in a Russian orphanage.
Well, I thought it was funny, especially when she had to once again set the boys straight with her broom before waiving me a pleasant but exasperated good bye. Neither one of us had time to chat. The boys needed her attention and I needed to get back to the ship to pick up my next group.
This excursion was for a small but eager group. We learned about one of Kiev’s darkest chapters on a journey to significant memorials to its Jewish history. The first memorial was shaped like a Menorah, a symbolic candelabrum modeled after the one in the Temple in Jerusalem. It was erected after the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991 and stands at the top of Babi Yar, which literally means “women’s ravine.” Here, thousands of Jewish people came to locally symbolize the Holocaust when they were massacred by Nazis in the early days of the Kiev occupation. From there we viewed the Children’s Memorial and a solemn monument to the Soviet citizens who perished. Our last stop was one of the oldest synagogues in the city, Podyl Synagogue. Built in 1895, it was partially destroyed during the Nazi occupation but was quickly rebuilt after the war.
I once again returned to the ship. Vit was waiting for me.
“I will be coming with you tonight.”
He was so stoic I worried that there was a problem and we took a detour to our cabin so I could freshen up and change into my dress uniform.
“Vit?”
All the stuffing went out of him and he collapsed onto the “sofa” in our sitting area. “I cannot make it stop.”
“What?” I asked in alarm.
“The thought that Mitkin will take you from me.”
That’s when we had the conversation about how he is allowing Mitkin to control him too much and my concern that it is exactly what that foul fellow wants. That seemed to calm Vit and we left to take a group of personnel for a traditional Ukrainian dinner. Yum.
We savored the rich tastes of the Ukraine during an appetizing dinner at a traditional restaurant. Ukraine was called the “breadbasket of Europe” for centuries because of the fertile black soil covering its steppes. War and economic turmoil has changed that but the area still produces more than many areas. Its cuisine is rooted in peasant dishes that draw from grains and staple vegetables such as wheat, rye, sugar beets and potatoes. The restaurant was pleasant but atmospheric as it was the former gunpowder storage facility of the Pechersky Fortress. It was like being in a 17th-century village with the hospitality and recipes to match. The wine was good but not the best we’ve had, but the food was excellent.
During our meal I told Vit of the funny meeting with the old woman. He did not have the reaction I was expecting.
“Veta, you must be more careful. It could have been a ploy by Mitkin.”
“Nii. The family was far too normal but if you are concerned, I made a point of using my body cam as part of my situational awareness.”
He deflated a bit. “I did not mean to insult you.”
“You didn’t. Not really. I know you are just concerned. But please stop allowing Mitkin to suck all the joy out of the room. He may be the devil everyone thinks of him, but that does not mean he is invincible. I will not be ruled by him and do not want to see you ruled by him either. Such people want exactly that. They want to take up the space they have not earned.”
Vit snorted. “Oh Mitkin has earned his reputation. But … you are my wise Kokhana … he does not deserve what I currently give him. I will … try.”
I surreptitiously held his hand for a moment beneath the table – no PDA allowed – but I have a feeling I am going to have to “help” him more until this Mitkin situation is resolved.
Chapter 271: Oct 24 - Kiev, Ukraine (2)
What. A. Day. It all started so innocently. Breakfast was good and Vit seemed better though I know for a fact his sleep was broken and he dreamed dreams she should not have. I was going to try and enjoy my day as much as possible because I had several reports to write this evening. I’m up late completing them and just needed a break so decided to journal.
It is as I was leaving the ship that my composure was first tried. I was at the foot of the gangway when I was handed a note from security that a man had asked for me by name. In block printing that obviously came from some attempt at translating Ukrainian into English, a man by the name of Vitomir Dymtrus asked if he could have a moment of my time. I was struck dumb and didn’t know what to do. I was about to comm Polina when Vit shows up having already been alerted by her because of the body cam.
“I will handle this,” Vit says forbiddingly.
“Give the man time to explain. He may have been ascertaining if there is some danger to his family. Not everyone trusts the Peace Mission. He could be as suspicious as you.”
“Veta …”
“Just try. It can’t hurt and may smooth over whatever problem exists. I will leave it in your hands. Contact me if you need me.” He nodded and I had no choice but to head to my excursion group who had been patiently waiting for me so we could head to the Pirogovo Folk Museum.
I admit it took the entirety of the bus ride to completely glue my stoic face back in place but since Vit had not called me I assumed the situation to be resolved. Vit may not be the most diplomatic person on the planet, but I’ve never seen him be ham-fisted either.
At the museum our group wandered among a collection of more than 200 wooden structures relocated and rebuilt here from all over Ukraine. The Pirogovo Folk Architecture Museum was founded in 1960 and opened to visitors in 1976. There were cottages, barns, windmills, churches and other significant buildings set on a picturesque hillside. Each building reflects a particular region, style and historic period of the country’s past and is further brought to life by exhibits of folk costumes, musical instruments and household articles. More than 40,000 ethnographic items provide insight into the culture and heritage of the country. These included religious icons, embroidery, carpets and rugs, ceramics and paintings. It was a bit like a “Disney” with various “lands” that allowed people to learn about rural life in Ukraine. Everything was very authentic yet still had the feeling of … something. Fantasy? Play? I’m not sure. It was not unpleasant. It was the off-season so there were no crowds though we weren’t the only ones there. As a result we got a little more attention from the people working there than anticipated. The only issue, if you want to call it that, was that very little English was spoken which was a challenge for some of our personnel though they all seemed to take it as an immersion activity and tried their best, sometimes causing some laughter.
We could have spent all day there but I needed to get the group back to the ship for a late lunch and pick up the next group for a trip to the Besarabsky Market. I was surprised to find out that Vit would be coming with me and from the look of him I wondered if I had stopped worrying too soon. He was shook up though no one else would have noticed. It was one of the first things I realized when I got a good look at him.
He would not speak of much of any import until I got the group organized and exploring the market. The market was a bit upscale for my taste, but the group was eager to be allowed off their leading strings. I gave them some rules, made sure they had my comm number, and told them the time I needed them back at the entrance. The market wasn’t huge, only about 10,000 square feet of floor space, but it is the largest and one of the oldest bazaars in Kiev.
Opened in 1912, the market has long been a favorite of the Ukrainian capital’s politicians and diplomats due to the many high-quality items available for purchase from its numerous vendors. On the southwest corner stands the market, housed within a two-story neoclassical facade of light-colored brick and glass. There are aisles of local specialties mixed with exotic (to the area) fruits and spices. I saw my group browse the stalls displaying meat and fish, the flower stands boasting colorful arrangements, and sampling traditional Ukrainian fare while practicing their bartering skills with the vendors.
As soon as I made sure no one was going to make a serious faux pas I signaled to Polina that I was turning the body cam off for personal reasons and then I turned to Vit. “All right husband, what are you not telling me.”
He was silent so long that I worried, wondering what catastrophe had befallen us this time. But when he started speaking, I realized just how shook Vit was.
“I spoke with the man.”
I assumed he meant the one from this morning and was correct. “You said you would. Was there a problem?”
“Nii. Yes. Nii.” He shook his head as if to clear it. “Veta … the man is my uncle.”
The world seemed to stand still.
“You … you are sure of this?”
“I was suspicious at first. But then again so was he. But eventually he revealed that my former commander had visited them himself to ascertain the details of a few things. First, that the man despite his illness would go to this trouble. For me? Veta, I can nearly not contemplate it. I know why he did it, the man is one of the most thorough I have ever met, but that he would. That challenges my composure.”
“It was for his son.”
“Yes. And his own honor. But still …”
“Yes. But still …” I glanced around to make sure everything was still calm and only saw people enjoying themselves so I turned back to Vit. “Is this conclusive?”
“Yes. Without a doubt. He provided documentation and asked me to do so as well before he went back to … to his family with the news. He was in civilian clothes because he is well-known in the neighborhood. Veta … he is a priest.”
Oh my. And basically the story unfolded this way. Vit’s father was conscripted … rather violently so … by first the Ukrainian Army which for whatever reason turned him over to the Russians. Some type of exchange is all that is known. That part has never been understood, not even by Vit’s former commander as it was not an official event. Strange things happen in war and this is just one that will have to be laid to that fact. But because of this and because of his father’s removal to Russia at some point they lost contact during the violence. The family never even knew of Vit’s existence or they would have welcomed he and his mother into their home, would have demanded custody of him … and even of Anitchka as girls are few and far between in the Dymtrus family.
Vit would have been raised in a traditional Cossack home. Vit was much struck by this. His uncle – and I still have trouble saying that – said that they are open to communication. His grandmother is very ill and wants to see him once before she dies. Vit has cautiously agreed to this but tomorrow is our last day in Kiev so it had to be arranged quickly. However, for security reasons, it is being kept quiet.
When we got back to the ship Vit needed to go on duty. Chaos and suspicion or not, he will not dump his duties on someone else. Plus, he will be off-ship most of tomorrow. I worry for him. I worry for us. I wish I could go with him but I cannot. Where is my dammit doll? I need the work out.
Chapter 272: Oct 25 - Kiev, Ukraine (3)
I don’t think there is anyway to truly capture the emotions of this day. I’ll start with mine and then move to Vit’s. Poor man is exhausted and asleep, though I do not think it is not a very restful one.
The first excursion I led, after forcing myself to admit that Vit could handle what he was walking into and not to “mother him” into a discomposure, dealt with Ukraine’s place during WW2. The guide we had was a good one, a part time professor and part time vintner. He lead us to on a tour of an extensive museum with a long name, the National Museum of the History of Ukraine in the Second World War. It is both a monument and a museum, housing more than 400,000 items pertaining to Ukraine’s resistance against the Nazis. Upon arrival, we walked past an exposition of military hardware from WWII to the present. Then there was the imposing 200-foot-tall Motherland Monument—a statue of a woman with upraised arms holding a sword and shield—atop the complex. We visited the memorial hall, where marble plaques display the names of those who died in defense of Ukraine. There were displays of personal belongings that were very effecting. Our guide, a former docent in the museum, told us several stories that most of the public have never heard concerning the country’s hard-fought struggle and the tragic cost of war.
We came back to the ship and I had hoped to hear from Vit but he left me no person note but Polina herself assured me that there appeared to be no problems, that she had eyes on him though no film or audio so he could have some privacy to deal with the situation. I had to allow that to be enough. My next excursion was going to require all of my composure and stoicism.
Once we got closer to the sight I handed out masks. It was up to the personnel to wear them or not but since I did, everyone else chose to as well. I also gave masks to our guide and driver and they nodded their thanks and put them on. We pulled into the National Museum of Chernobyl only a few minutes later. It is not that we are so close to Chernobyl – though we were close enough as the crow flies – it is that in recent years there have been a great many fires in the forests surrounding the disaster zone and dust and ash from those fires have spread the radioactivity further than planned for. There was an active fire while we were there so it just seemed prudent to take due cautions. We weren’t the only group doing so. Most people were wearing dust masks of some type and many also had goggles and hats on.
In 1986, due to a still not fully-explained surge in power, one of the main reactors of the Chernobyl Power Plant suffered an explosion. Thousands of people were evacuated, and more than 38,000 square miles of land were affected by the radioactive fallout. In Kiev, the National Museum of Chernobyl was established to educate visitors of the far-reaching effects of the disaster in a bid to protect the world from a similar event in the future. During our visit we saw displays that recognized the brave individuals who worked tirelessly to contain the reactor, and in the end, paid the ultimate price. There were classified maps, photos and equipment, and exhibits that showcase harrowing images of those who were caught up in the affected zone. Our guide explained about the devastation that it is still causing to this day many decades later.
When we got back to the ship we had to go through a special security procedure. I found that we were not radioactive … at least barely more than normal. I decided I was not telling Vit that bit of news. He’d restrict me to our cabin and damn the consequences. For the same reason I am not sharing this with anyone back home. I can hear Derrick from across the Ocean if I did.
I did however quickly head to our cabin to climb into the shower and scrub down. My uniform I sealed in a bag and have since washed it on its own. Vit returned to the ship not long after this and all I can say is that he is still processing the sudden appearance of biological family.
“You are not angry with me for going alone and for the money?” he asked after we had return from the Mess Hall as we tried to re-establish some normalcy and he'd told all he could of his encounter; a private matter I will not record for some time at his request.
“Nii. Of course not. She is your grandmother and the pictures match. I am only concerned for your feelings,” I answered.
He sighed. “I don’t know if the money is a foolish thing or not. And to find a priest is my uncle was a very strange thing. But it was he that told me of the old woman’s wishes for flowers for the church yard.” He paused a moment before continuing. “Flowers. It reminded me of you.” He sighed again. “It is money we could use for us but …”
“But sometimes things happen for a reason Vitomir Vasilyevich Dymtrus.”
The face he made at the use of his full name nearly had me trying to make him smile by saying to be careful or it would get stuck that way. We know, even if it is not in official records, that this must be so because it was his father’s full birth name.
“I cannot be other than who I am. My name is Vit. The remainder is from a past that was denied to me and that cannot be altered.”
“But perhaps we can both learn from it?”
This time Vit’s sigh was less angry and more contemplative. “Perhaps that is the best way to look at it,” he agreed.
After a few hours of duty on the Bridge while I tried to encourage everyone to please hurry up and finish packing and put their luggage outside of their rooms, properly tagged, for pick up before 11 pm. I did our own packing as well, what little there was of it, and also packed us overnight bags that will cover the next two days on trains. This time Polina and Yegor will not be traveling with us as they will be “debriefed” and will follow by air when they are finished.
Vit now sleeps and I need to as well. Life can be so strange. I was hoping to find something of my past only to find that it had been erased. Vit thought he knew all he would ever know only to be confronted with more than he can perhaps process and acknowledge with more family than he is prepared for. Our positions are reversed. I hope to assure him that we stand together regardless.
Chapter 273: Oct 26 – Train Day (Sunday)
I begin to feel like this traveling is for the birds regardless of the reason for it. Goodness. We disembarked the ship and took a transfer to Kieve-Passajirskii (Kiev, Ukraine) to Wien hbf (Vienna (23 hrs 32 min). We are going to be on this train all day. And another train tomorrow.
How is it possible to be so bored and so wired at the same time? We are still on the train and I am very glad that I packed my electronics separately even though it meant a hassle to get through security. I need something to keep me occupied on this never-ending ride.
Twenty-four hours. I’ve never been on a plane ride that takes this long. We started at 8 o’clock in the morning today and will not get off until 8 o’clock tomorrow morning. From there we transfer to another train that will take nine more hours. Ahhhhh. My brain is melting.
Fine. I am pitching a drama queen but honestly, this is awful. I am very glad I heeded some advice I read online about making sure to bring an extra roll of toilet paper and some snacks. The bathrooms are constantly in use and have frequently run out of paper … when they actually work. And food? Let me say this train is even worse than airline food … when food is available.
This is how it has worked thus far. We departed Kiev at 8 am aboard Austrian Railways. Six hours later we had to change trains in Lviv. It was a confusing mess and I was lucky that Vit had traveled here once or I would never have gotten everyone through to the next train in time … we only had an hour layover and everyone wanted to use the bathroom and grab a bite to eat. It was a beautiful building – lots of white marble and classic lines on the outside but merely functional inside and it was very busy. I kept reminding people to not compare train stations with airports. They serve different clientele and are not meant to be as luxurious.
Once we were seated on the new train, I made a count and felt blessed that everyone had heeded my strictures about being late because trains wait for no one. We have sixteen hours on this train and then a short hop to get on the last leg from Vienna to Zurich.
All these places are bucket list items that I never thought I’d really ever do but at the same time … something. I’m not sure how to quantify it, what words to use. Perhaps I am getting jaded. I hope not. I have worried about that in the past. Perhaps I am becoming entitled. That would be even worse. I think perhaps I am simply becoming burnt out and even the fantastical reality that I am living cannot reach me as it should. Perhaps I simply need some sleep. Now that I can say with absolute certainty is true, but Vit and I have agreed to sleep in shifts. Even if I wanted to sleep every time I feel like I am about to nod off someone comes to ask a question … as bad as when Poppa used to threaten if one more of us asked “are we there yet?” And speaking of, here comes the next one.
Chapter 274: Oct 27 – Train day
Wien hbf to Zurich hb, Germany (8 hrs 59 min)
I suppose this train from hell is worth something. Neither Vit nor I have really had much time or energy to put into what we learned in Kiev. Ugh. And the reason? Typical logistical chaos.
So much for being timely. We arrived in Vienna at 8 am, got on the train an hour later and arrived in Zurich nine hours after that. Everything was going swimmingly … until we find out that there are no drivers or taxi services because everyone is on a “strike holiday.” Everything is scheduled to start back up tomorrow but it is going to mean a night in the train station for Vit and I because I am responsible for overseeing all the equipment and luggage that traveled with us and Vit will not leave me alone. Part of it is he still allows Mitkin to take up too much space in his head. Even if I could get him to go, all the local hotels and hostels are booked solid. One of our travelers is from Zurich and has family willing to take in most of the group traveling with us. They’ll be sleeping dormitory-style, but they consider it a treat rather than having to sleep in the station.
To keep myself awake during my “shift” so that Vit can get some needed rest I will describe this station. It first opened on this spot in 1847, but the current station building dates from 1871. The main hall (Haupthalle) has photos from that era that were interesting. The buildings on the north of the Haupthalle are called the Nordtrakt, those on the south the Sudtrakt. In 1933 new platforms were built a couple of hundred metres short of the old buffer stops, covered by a series of glass-and-steel arched roofs, allowing station capacity to be increased. The modern era has caused some additional changes. A modern shopping mall has been built underneath the Haupthalle, and below that there are now a series of underground platforms mostly handling local trains but also some Swiss mainline trains.
Ugh. I need some coffee. I wonder if I could convince Vit to get some between our shifts?
Chapter 275: Oct 28 - Zurich, Switzerland (1)
Ugh. I feel hungover. It was a rough night in the train station. We never really slept, more like catnapped. This morning was a struggle to wait our turn for transportation. We hadn’t even gotten a taxi to get to our accommodations when I started receiving frantic calls from the Home Office that the diplomats are showing up a day earlier than expected with ideas they will be taken care of. I was ready to “take care of them” all right … after the fifth call in the early morning hours asking why I was not already there.
Rather than wait for a taxi that could hold all the luggage and equipment, someone arranged a van to pick us up. Ugh again. Despite my exhaustion I agreed to take a tour with a group of high-level SOs to get them out from under the feet of everyone else trying to prep for incoming staff the next day. Vit goes on to our hotel with our luggage where he will get his own briefing.
There are a lot of German and French diplomats on this leg of the mission as well as some Asians. It makes for a culturally complicated mix of personalities and expectations. Each one expecting no less service than the previous legs of the journey have had and protocol being more challenging than if only the Europeans or only the Asians had made up the group.
Surprisingly I found the Asians “jollier” than expected, especially once they discovered I was making a real effort to be polite and be culturally sensitive to their protocols and use their language correctly. And they were so … so stereotypical. They took pictures of everything. The Europeans on the other hand acted bored and somewhat entitled which irritated me immensely given the fact that I was fatigued yet making a lot of effort for their benefit, even if it was “just my job.”
The only thing I could arrange on such short notice, given the previous days’ strike, was an excursion to the Lindt Chocolate Shop. Someone from the Home Office also managed to pull some strings and add in a panoramic tour and a Lake Zurich Cruise. I did my best to get along with the SOs as I will be traveling with them most of the German and Asian legs of the Mission and possibly further than that. They didn’t always make it easy.
We met our guide at Sihlquai Bus Terminal, and hopped aboard a coach for a highlights tour of the city. We passed the castle-like National Museum, the shopping avenue of Bahnhofstrasse (yes they all wanted to stop and nearly pouted when I said not today), and Zürich's famous financial district, learning about the history of the area as we went. During a photo stop at Enge harbor, we enjoyed views of Lake Zürich before traveling past the renowned Opera House to the Zürichberg district. That’s when we hopped aboard a cogwheel train (Dolderbahn) to a scenic viewpoint where the five-star Grand Hotel Dolder sits. We took in panoramic vistas of the city and the Alps before heading to the university quarter. There we saw the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology (ETH Zürich) and Zürich's Museum of Art, before arriving in the Old Town area. We learned about Zürich's history on a stroll through the medieval streets and admired the town hall, St. Peter's Church with Europe's largest clock face, the Grossmünster cathedral, and the Fraumünster church, with its magnificent stained-glass windows. Further afoot, along the banks of Lake Zurich, we climbed aboard a boat for a 1-hour sightseeing cruise. I fielded many questions, so many and in so many different languages that my tongue needs a vacation. My brain is fried from having to switch gears so many times.
After taking in the surrounding scenery from the water, we enjoyed a leisurely walk along the shores to the surprise I had been holding back from them. The Lindt Chocolate shop in Kilchberg was a good choice regardless of the wide ranging cultures of those in my group. My goodness. Some of the women looked like they were going to have the vapors or something close to it.
Founded in 1845, Lindt today has factories all over the world. We were met with a presentation about the history and production of chocolate. It is believed that cacao beans were first cultivated and fermented three millennia ago in Mesoamerica and made their way to Europe after the discovery of the New World. We got a tour of the manufacturing side of the business before enjoying a unique opportunity to create our own delicacy. It was a bit of a silly production but the group at large seemed to have fun. We donned a Lindt uniform and headed into a kitchen space. With guidance from an experienced chocolatier, we prepared champagne truffles and decorated pralines. Furthermore, our masterpieces were packaged so that we could take them with us.
You know the advice to never go shopping when you are hungry? It’s true. And never go to a chocolate factor when you are hormonal. That’s doubly true. And never ever ever enter a candy shop with other women that are as hormonal as you. I’m afraid we might have given the poor male clerks nightmares.
Switzerland is one of the leading exporters of chocolate in the world with Nescafe which is the world’s first instant coffee having been invented here. In fact, Swiss people boast of holding the record for the world’s highest per-capita for chocolate. We found that even those universal brands like Nestle exist in a large variety of flavors that we’d never seen any place else.
And then there were the candy bars. I spotted a Toblerone display and was tempted to denude it, and would have if I hadn’t felt forced to share its discovery with the SOs. It was like locusts. You laugh I’m sure but trust me, the description was all too apropos. I later found out that Polina nearly laughed and Yegor was salivating to have his chance … assuming we left any chocolate to be found. I nearly picked up something healthy like Swiss Cheese to prove I hadn’t completely lost my mind but nope, that will have to wait for some other day.
Finally they were all wound down and we could return to the hotel where we will be staying while in Zurich to give the ship a few more days to be ready. As I got them signed in and assigned a room all I could visualize were dragons hording their gold the way they held on to their bags … bags and bags … of purchased goodies. I hope I haven’t run out of my zit cream because I just know I am going to need it.
Oh lord, I just read the email telling me what has been arranged for tomorrow. I’m dead. Dead I tell you. Excited but dead. I think I’ve had too much chocolate and caffeine and not enough something else. I beat Vit with a pillow until he fell off the other side because he couldn’t stop laughing. I am glad someone finds my insanity humorous.
Chapter 276: Oct 29 - Zurich, Switzerland (2)
I was exhausted this morning and running late. I was hurrying to get in and out of the shower so Vit could use it and just praying that my uniform would pass muster, only to find there had been a delivery. Vit, my wonderful husband, had our uniforms cleaned and pressed the day before and had ordered room service breakfast.
“Vit?”
“Do not worry at it Kokhana. There is per diem while in Zurich to cover such necessities.”
That’s when I also found out that Vit was going to be acting as another level of security for today’s excursion as several staff members have been withdrawn from placement on the rosters. They are being replaced but they will not arrive for two days. Vit said he doesn’t mind as he cannot start his own work until they embark in Basel.
“I have you for two days?!” Vit laughed at my obvious pleasure.
“You are pleased?”
“You have no idea. My energy level just shot through the roof. Let’s get some breakfast.”
There was excited murmuring from several tables while we ate and I realized they must be part of the group I would be leading. The excursion was called Jungfraujoch and Grindelwald, and we would be gone from Zurich for twelve hours.
I stood up. “Everyone ready? The coach is here.”
Those that weren’t were a moment later. It was still very early I the day but we had a ways to go. Grindelwald is the principal town in the Jungfraujoch, a term that refers to the saddle between the Eiger and the Munch Mountains in Switzerland’s Alps. The combination of snow-clad mountain peaks, beautiful valleys, sheer rock faces, waterfalls and glaciers, including the Aletsch (which is Europe’s largest at 65 square miles and 2,300 feet in depth), make it one of Europe’s most popular train routes and hiking destinations. Grindelwald is a pretty town whose limited activity is along a single main street. Although it has some pretty, alpine-style buildings, its beauty lies primarily in its setting on a small plateau, just above the valley floor, that is surrounded by picturesque mountains. To the west, five 12K and 13K mountains and the Grindelwald Glacier loom over it. To the northwest, it overlooks the valley floor and the town of Grund.
The escorted coach tour took us from Zurich into the Alpine world of the Bernese Oberland. After a short stop in Interlaken against a backdrop of the majestic mountain massif of the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau, the journey continued in a modern cog railway from Lauterbrunnen through idyllic scenery, and past the spectacular, world-famous Eiger North Face. The next stage of the trip took us up to the Jungfraujoch – the highest train station in Europe at 3,454m (11,332ft) above sea level.
It was here that we visited the Ice Palace, built in the 1930s by 2 guides who hand-carved the huge hall with nothing but an ice ax and saw. After wandering through this surreal world and taking in its pristine sculptures, we moved along the Alpine Sensation subway line. We stopped at different alcoves to learn more about the region's tourism history. The “Alpine Sensation” adventure trail and the souvenir store were also something several of the group voted we do. The breathtaking views from the Sphinx observation terrace over the Aletsch Glacier, the longest glacier in the world, was simply stunning. This is also were our lunch reservations were. There were several restaurants to choose from but we stayed together as a group since time was always of the essence. We shared several fondue entres as well as air-dried meat, sausage, shaved cheese and pickled vegetables and a dish of toast topped with melted cheese and a fried egg. Very typical food in the Alps. And good thing we fueled up.
We hiked back down into the valley by way of the Eiger Trail. This relatively short 3.8-mile trail is one of the premier spots in the area. They claim it can take as much as three hours to do, but not even our most unathletic group member took that long. We took the cog railway from Jungfraujoch to reach the trail’s beginning at the toe of the receding Eiger Glacier. The trail proceeds down the 13,026-foot Eiger, along the base of the mountain’s infamous and dangerous North Face. The trail then plunges 2,600 feet to the town of Alpiglen, at which point we caught a train down the rest of the valley to Grindelwald where the coach was waiting for the return to Zurich, but only after we visited the attraction called Glacier Canyon.
The attraction is divided into six themes: Coincidence, Formation, Geology, Water, Glacier and Myth. It was designed for families so the experiences worked with many different age groups. And the simple explanations in some areas helped those that were not fluent in German, the language of Switzerland. One of the hits of the day was the “Spiderweb.” It is a 170 m2 scrambling activity. Devin would have had a fit over it. Derrick and Angelia would have need medication. It’s a net that you can scramble, walk or crawl on, seven meters above the roaring Lütschine River. The rushing water cascades from the mountains into the Lütschine River below, sometimes causing a sudden rush of wind through the canyon and a rapid temperature flux as rays of light reflect along the steep walls.
I was feeling nostalgic of all things. I miss the students on outings such as this. At least the older ones. They would have really loved it all, especially the adventure factor. Some of our group however, their mind may have been willing but their body told them they could no longer cash that check. Luckily I could leave Vit and some of the other personnel to handle some of the more adventurous of the group, especially the men, which allowed me to focus on some of the Asian females who are not what you would call athletic despite their appearance.
Tonight the hotel is quiet after a boisterous and jolly dinner mealtime. I warned our group they might want to take a couple of Tylenols and a hot shower before going to bed. It would make the morning a little less … potent. There was good natured chuckling, but it didn’t take them long to get to their rooms. And now I am finished with these blasted reports and Vit is likewise finished reviewing several communiques left for him while we were out. I would ask him how he is doing and whether he has contacted his uncle, but I don’t want to spoil the mood. I have to trust he will tell me at some point. I certainly don’t want the subject of Mitkin to come up.