Veg TOMATO BLIGHT

Raggedyman

Res ipsa loquitur
good news is that tomatoes are off to a great start this year. I've already tied most of mine twice and have some small blossoms on the cherokees, amish paste and san marzanos.

although I haven't seen any signs of it yet the "bad news" is that all this rain and cool temperatures in the SE are a sure RX for BLIGHT - and it bears watching carefully.

QUESTION:

what do YOU do and what do YOU recommend for blight - both early and late?

especially interested in hearing from the ORGANIC crowd on this.

thx
RM
 

imaginative

keep your eye on the ball
On Saturday I went thru all my tomatos and removed the suckers and any leaves that were touching the ground. That will give the plants a much better chance against blight and other diseases
 

summerthyme

Administrator
_______________
Spray them weekly with a copper based fungicide... if you start before any blight is visible, it prevents it. 4 years ago we had 200 huge, lush, green tomato plants loaded with fruit... had a rainy, humid spell, and they ALL were dead within a week! Absolutely infuriating!

Since then, we don't wait for symptoms of blight, nor even "blight weather". We depend on our tomato and potato plants for important food supplies for winter... it's cheap insurance to just spray them (we do stretch it to 10 day intervals if the weather is very dry). There are times it's a hassle to haul out the sprayer, but then, there are lots of things in the subsistence lifestyle that can be an inconvenient hassle, but they all beat an empty root cellar and pantry in the winter!

Summerthyme
 

Raggedyman

Res ipsa loquitur
Spray them weekly with a copper based fungicide... if you start before any blight is visible, it prevents it. 4 years ago we had 200 huge, lush, green tomato plants loaded with fruit... had a rainy, humid spell, and they ALL were dead within a week! Absolutely infuriating!

Since then, we don't wait for symptoms of blight, nor even "blight weather". We depend on our tomato and potato plants for important food supplies for winter... it's cheap insurance to just spray them (we do stretch it to 10 day intervals if the weather is very dry). There are times it's a hassle to haul out the sprayer, but then, there are lots of things in the subsistence lifestyle that can be an inconvenient hassle, but they all beat an empty root cellar and pantry in the winter!

Summerthyme

thanks - that's good advice - I will start that cycle tomorrow. this is the wettest spring I can remember. looked at my potatoes this morning and they look good . . .

On Saturday I went thru all my tomatos and removed the suckers and any leaves that were touching the ground. That will give the plants a much better chance against blight and other diseases

did that today myself
 

Vicki

Girls With Guns Member
I also grow the Amish Paste. Love em.

If I hear of blight in my area I make a cup of Chamomile tea, strain it and pour it into a quart size water bottle. fill the bottle with cold water and spray. I haven't had blight yet when all around me did so I believe the chamomile is doing the job. I also spray that on soil if it picks up a tinge of fungi while germinating seeds. It works for me. I would think garlic and calendula would work the same.

Here's a recipe using baking soda that claims it's works as well. I haven't tried that yet but might. I'll post the article so we have it here too.

https://migardener.com/prevent-kill-blight-powdery-mildew-baking-soda/

Control Tomato Blight & Powdery Mildew Organically With Baking Soda

VIDEO: EZ Baking Soda Fungicide

As Organic gardeners we seem the get the short end of the stick when it comes to effective disease preventing tools. We seem to be the first to get blight on our tomatoes, and the first to get powdery mildew as well! This not only effects our tomato plants, but our zucchini, cucumbers, pumpkins, squash, melons, potatoes, and even beans! BUT there is one fool proof method to preventing, and even STOPPING the spread of powdery mildew, and blight. That is by using the power of baking soda.


sodium-bicarbonate

What is Baking Soda?

Baking soda is NAHCO3 or Sodium Bicarbonate. Is it natural? The answer is YES. Sodium bicarbonate is found very commonly by hot springs, geysers, and many sulfur rich places. So this does count as an organic supplement for your garden. But the real question is,

Does it work?
YES.

How it works:
Baking Soda works by creating an alkaline environment on the leaf,
and fungus (powdery mildew and blight are both fungi) cannot colonize the surface of the leaf since they need a neutral pH (around 7.0) to survive and thrive. This spray of water and Baking soda will change the pH of the leaf from around 7.0 to around 8.0, this change is enough to kill, and prevent all blight spores!

HOW TO APPLY:
Step 1: Mix 3 tablespoons baking soda with 1 gallon of water.This is the baking soda we use: Arm and Hammer Pure Baking Soda.
Step 2: Mix in 1 tablespoon vegetable oil, or cooking oil of your choice. This helps the spray to stick to the leaves.
Step 3: Mix in 2 drops of dish soap to help emulsify (mix) everything. I recommend using a gentle dish soap since many have harmful chemicals and are not good for soil life. I get the Planet Ultra Brand and it works just a good to be honest. I used to use palmolive but switched last year once I saw all the harsh chemicals in it.
Step 4: Spray on tops and bottoms of leaves till dripping

Tip: Begin with 3 tablespoons, and apply that amount one time each week for 3 weeks. Then switch to 3 1/2 Tablespoons if fungus is still growing, or spreading.

WARNING: Start spraying in the morning or evening – Spraying in the heat of the day can harm your leaves.
 

Illini Warrior

Illini Warrior
On Saturday I went thru all my tomatos and removed the suckers and any leaves that were touching the ground. That will give the plants a much better chance against blight and other diseases


believe it or not - treat that nippers or knife like a surgical tool - dip it into a sterilizing solution to start and continue it thru the plant trimming - you can do more harm in spreading a disease than any possible good ...
 
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