You may eat organic and never wish to use any sprays... However during a survival situation you cannot risk your crop and only food source on your whims. Gardening is hard enough with the weather, variable precipitation, and possible storms.
A few Facts for those purchasing their produce from organic suppliers..
Your "organic" crops are sprayed with several insecticides.
The organic sprays work in the very same ways as the non organic.
Organic sprays generally require more applications.
Organic sprays are nearly identical to their non-organic cousins.
Some non-organic insecticides used to be organic approved
Some organic approved insecticides were not organic in the past.
Organic is a label and barely a growing method.
Lastly, if absolutely needed a farmer can use non organic sprays on their organic crop.
A quick primer on the different types and why you want so many different ones.
Each pesticide works with different modes of action. Some make the bug starve because they can no longer process food because it uses up all the vitamins the bug has. Some make it not want to eat. Some excite them and make them dance till they die. Some disrupt the nervous system so it makes them sit and die. Some cause the bug to get sick. Some will make fungus grow on or in them. Some will make their shell thin and irritated. The thing to realize is pesticides work in many different fashions. You want utilize as many different ways as you can each season so the bugs don't develop immunity. Their are some that the bugs never get immune to but these are generally the least effective. All pesticides have a mode of action listed on the label. Use these to determine your mix. You want at least 3 modes of action for every crop. Quick crops like lettuce and greens you may want 4 types. In addition to mode of action we have systemic and non-systemic. Systemic means it gets into the plant, roots to flower and fruit. Non systemic means it just sites on the top. Nearly all the pesticides available to home gardeners are non systemic. Excepting two. Lastly, you will note the organic sprays cost much, much more.
Next, use the amount of insecticide the label suggests. Too little is actually worse than a little too much. The insects are more apt to develop immunity if lessor amounts are used. Carefully read the label for the precautions, amounts of concentrate to add to your sprayer, how much spray to use per sq ft. Also note the location limitations, some prohibit uses indoors or in greenhouses, by ponds or streams, and in certain weather conditions.
Finally the sprays.. Not all are available in all states but they are widely available. If the particular trade name isn't available in your state. You may find one with the active ingredient. You can also substitute different trade names with the same active ingredients if you find it cheaper. Just be sure to read the label before purchase. Some mixes are cheap but have very restrictive labels.
Systemics..
Non organic
Neonicotinoids, The bee killers. While true just don't use it on plants that flower. This is great for protecting greens and lettuces, cabbages and broccoli, and root crops. Fact is you shouldn't spay anything when bees are active. So this generally means spraying in the evening just before dark. Another avoided fact. Honey bees are not native to the Americas. Most crops are not bee pollinated. Most are wind pollinated with the remainder being fly pollinated. Those bees you see on the squash. Yeah they aren't needed. Now if you were in the desert and had no natural bugs, then perhaps you would be concerned.
Organic
Bayer Fruit, citrus and vegetable
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004BLNVMS/
Azagaurd
Growth inhibitor. It stops the insect from phase changing. Can be used as a spray and is also a mild systemic.
https://www.amazon.com/AzaGuard-Botanical-Insecticide-Nematicide-Concentrate/dp/B00C4PTIH0
Non-systemic.
Non-organic
Sevin dust... Works great for general pest control of leaf eating insects.
https://www.amazon.com/Sevin-Concentrate-Bug-Killer-Quart/dp/B000RNEYBG/
Malathion
Works well on all insects. It has to contact them tho so if they can flyaway they will. It has almost no residual.
https://www.amazon.com/Spectracide-Malathion-Insect-Concentrate-HG-30900/dp/B004NRPD94/
Crop Spray
Natural pyrethrins with an exciter. Works very well as a contact knockdown spray.
http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/pyronyl-crop-spray-p-7270.html
Organic
Monterey crop spray. Works by exciting the bugs and disrupting feeding. It can cause minor damage to the plant if too much is used. Residual lasts a few days. Works by ingestion and externally.
https://www.amazon.com/Monterey-Garden-Insect-Spinosad-Concentrate/dp/B002BP12LI/
Pyganic, an organic approved Pytherin. Work as a contact spray and will drive out flying insects. No residual at all.
https://www.amazon.com/Insecticide-Organic-Pyganic-Pyrethrin-Davids/dp/B004OKZZGG/
Biogaurd Works by growing fungus on the bugs. Has some residual. (don't use on tomatoes)
https://www.amazon.com/Botanigard-Es-Biological-Insecticide-1qt/dp/B000J2K34W/
The last set is the many oils, soaps, and blockers. They all last for a very short time and can contaminate the produce. They work by direct contact or making the area unpleasant for the bugs. They work fine if your not having an issue and use them continuously in prophylactic fashion. But will fail to save a crop from an infestation. They are so widely available it's a moot point to add links. I would caution you to test for adverse reactions prior to spraying the whole garden. Many will cause leaf burn and blossom drop. Many will leave a residue, for instance if you spray your lettuce with neem oil to kill some aphids. It will taste like neem oil. Which is fine if you like neem oil. On the other hand, Azagaurd is made from neem oil. So you get the effects of neem oil without the taste.
I always keep several non organic and organic in my spray mix. Always rotating the type when needed. For a few hundred dollars you can have a lifetime supply of many insecticides. Be sure to store them out of the sun, in a cool place, that never freezes. Also remember the organic sprays that contain live culture can't be stored for long periods.
A few Facts for those purchasing their produce from organic suppliers..
Your "organic" crops are sprayed with several insecticides.
The organic sprays work in the very same ways as the non organic.
Organic sprays generally require more applications.
Organic sprays are nearly identical to their non-organic cousins.
Some non-organic insecticides used to be organic approved
Some organic approved insecticides were not organic in the past.
Organic is a label and barely a growing method.
Lastly, if absolutely needed a farmer can use non organic sprays on their organic crop.
A quick primer on the different types and why you want so many different ones.
Each pesticide works with different modes of action. Some make the bug starve because they can no longer process food because it uses up all the vitamins the bug has. Some make it not want to eat. Some excite them and make them dance till they die. Some disrupt the nervous system so it makes them sit and die. Some cause the bug to get sick. Some will make fungus grow on or in them. Some will make their shell thin and irritated. The thing to realize is pesticides work in many different fashions. You want utilize as many different ways as you can each season so the bugs don't develop immunity. Their are some that the bugs never get immune to but these are generally the least effective. All pesticides have a mode of action listed on the label. Use these to determine your mix. You want at least 3 modes of action for every crop. Quick crops like lettuce and greens you may want 4 types. In addition to mode of action we have systemic and non-systemic. Systemic means it gets into the plant, roots to flower and fruit. Non systemic means it just sites on the top. Nearly all the pesticides available to home gardeners are non systemic. Excepting two. Lastly, you will note the organic sprays cost much, much more.
Next, use the amount of insecticide the label suggests. Too little is actually worse than a little too much. The insects are more apt to develop immunity if lessor amounts are used. Carefully read the label for the precautions, amounts of concentrate to add to your sprayer, how much spray to use per sq ft. Also note the location limitations, some prohibit uses indoors or in greenhouses, by ponds or streams, and in certain weather conditions.
Finally the sprays.. Not all are available in all states but they are widely available. If the particular trade name isn't available in your state. You may find one with the active ingredient. You can also substitute different trade names with the same active ingredients if you find it cheaper. Just be sure to read the label before purchase. Some mixes are cheap but have very restrictive labels.
Systemics..
Non organic
Neonicotinoids, The bee killers. While true just don't use it on plants that flower. This is great for protecting greens and lettuces, cabbages and broccoli, and root crops. Fact is you shouldn't spay anything when bees are active. So this generally means spraying in the evening just before dark. Another avoided fact. Honey bees are not native to the Americas. Most crops are not bee pollinated. Most are wind pollinated with the remainder being fly pollinated. Those bees you see on the squash. Yeah they aren't needed. Now if you were in the desert and had no natural bugs, then perhaps you would be concerned.
Organic
Bayer Fruit, citrus and vegetable
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004BLNVMS/
Azagaurd
Growth inhibitor. It stops the insect from phase changing. Can be used as a spray and is also a mild systemic.
https://www.amazon.com/AzaGuard-Botanical-Insecticide-Nematicide-Concentrate/dp/B00C4PTIH0
Non-systemic.
Non-organic
Sevin dust... Works great for general pest control of leaf eating insects.
https://www.amazon.com/Sevin-Concentrate-Bug-Killer-Quart/dp/B000RNEYBG/
Malathion
Works well on all insects. It has to contact them tho so if they can flyaway they will. It has almost no residual.
https://www.amazon.com/Spectracide-Malathion-Insect-Concentrate-HG-30900/dp/B004NRPD94/
Crop Spray
Natural pyrethrins with an exciter. Works very well as a contact knockdown spray.
http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/pyronyl-crop-spray-p-7270.html
Organic
Monterey crop spray. Works by exciting the bugs and disrupting feeding. It can cause minor damage to the plant if too much is used. Residual lasts a few days. Works by ingestion and externally.
https://www.amazon.com/Monterey-Garden-Insect-Spinosad-Concentrate/dp/B002BP12LI/
Pyganic, an organic approved Pytherin. Work as a contact spray and will drive out flying insects. No residual at all.
https://www.amazon.com/Insecticide-Organic-Pyganic-Pyrethrin-Davids/dp/B004OKZZGG/
Biogaurd Works by growing fungus on the bugs. Has some residual. (don't use on tomatoes)
https://www.amazon.com/Botanigard-Es-Biological-Insecticide-1qt/dp/B000J2K34W/
The last set is the many oils, soaps, and blockers. They all last for a very short time and can contaminate the produce. They work by direct contact or making the area unpleasant for the bugs. They work fine if your not having an issue and use them continuously in prophylactic fashion. But will fail to save a crop from an infestation. They are so widely available it's a moot point to add links. I would caution you to test for adverse reactions prior to spraying the whole garden. Many will cause leaf burn and blossom drop. Many will leave a residue, for instance if you spray your lettuce with neem oil to kill some aphids. It will taste like neem oil. Which is fine if you like neem oil. On the other hand, Azagaurd is made from neem oil. So you get the effects of neem oil without the taste.
I always keep several non organic and organic in my spray mix. Always rotating the type when needed. For a few hundred dollars you can have a lifetime supply of many insecticides. Be sure to store them out of the sun, in a cool place, that never freezes. Also remember the organic sprays that contain live culture can't be stored for long periods.
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