UNEX My truck explosion!

Doc1

Has No Life - Lives on TB
Yesterday I went to the post office in my classic '68 Ford pickup. The trip was uneventful and the old truck ran perfectly. I did my business at the post office and returned to my truck to start it.

It did not want to start, with the engine bucking, trying to start and then dying. It didn't sound like an ignition problem and it didn't sound like fuel starvation, though if I was pressed to only make one guess that would've been it. It would crank and "try" to start and rumble and pop a little, but wouldn't quite start. I tried to start it four or five times, hoping that if I could at least get it running I might get a better handle on what the problem was.

The last time I tried to start it, there was a huge explosion which sounded - at least - as loud as a 30-06 rifle being fired! This was not an opportune location for such a detonation, as I was next to the post office and directly across the street from the county courthouse! I tried the starter once again and this time she fired right up and seemed to run perfectly... except for being very loud. I figured I'd best skeedaddle before a SWAT team showed up, so immediately drove away a couple of blocks to an open parking lot.

I popped the hood and, paying close attention to the header pipe, didn't see anything amiss. It had been raining so the parking lot was soaked, but I nonetheless got down on my hands and knees to check the undercarriage. Upon doing this, I saw that my (newish) muffler - which looks like a long, galvanized can - had exploded and was split from end to end along its seam, with the seam edges blown apart and out!

Since the muffler wasn't near anything flammable or critical, I started the truck and again it seemed to run perfectly. Deciding to let discretion be the better part of valor, I skipped my remaining errands and drove straight home. Again, the truck ran perfectly and upon pulling in to my driveway, I stopped and started it several more times. Each time it started and ran without issue.

Alright, folks: I'm aware of a lot of the reasons an exhaust system might pop loudly. The exhaust system could be plugged, allowing the explosive fuel-air mixture to collect in it and in the old days you could intentionally make a vehicle backfire by turning the ignition off while driving and then turning it back on again. Some of you may remember the old trick of shoving a raw potato into the tailpipe to cause a large backfire when someone tried to start the vehicle. None of these things seemed to apply here. Remember that it was running perfectly before I stopped at the post office.

The continuous rain has everything soaked so don't have the opportunity to crawl under the truck yet. What could the problem have been? The only thing I can think of at the moment is that when I parked, a squirrel or rat had jumped into the exhaust pipe and died or stopped near the muffler. I know that's a long shot, but at least for now I remain puzzled.

Best
Doc
 

BornFree

Came This Far
The float needle valve in the carb may have gotten something in it(that later got washed out) causing the engine to flood with gas.
The old stuff is great in many ways. But there are two things that made them unreliable. Carburetors and old style ignitions.
Fuel injection and electronic ignitions were actually a huge improvement in reliability.
 

SurvivalRing

Rich Fleetwood - Founder - author/coder/podcaster
And you mentioned explosion, not backfire…

My old 72 Dodge pickup I had back in Alabama “kind of” exploded, but more like the engine caught fire. I rewired it a few weeks later, but it never ran the same. Slant six engine…simple, but not…
 

jward

passin' thru
uhoh. think it's the TB truck grimlin runnin' amuck. Waiting for the dr to come pick up mine from the middle o' the drive where it decided to start it's vaca- which woulda been less of a pita, had I not busted up my foot already, and been using it to help with my heavy liftin n haulin :: shrug ::

I woulda assumed small critter too, since that is what I most often have to shoo away here.
 

medic38572

TB Fanatic
The float needle valve in the carb may have gotten something in it(that later got washed out) causing the engine to flood with gas.
The old stuff is great in many ways. But there are two things that made them unreliable. Carburetors and old style ignitions.
Fuel injection and electronic ignitions were actually a huge improvement in reliability.
That is what I was going to say sounds like the carb over loaded and caused the back fire.
 

alpha

Veteran Member
Doc, slightly off topic is my suggestion that you start sparing critical components for your Ford. I discovered yesterday that the price doubled and availability diminished for several drum brake components for my 64 Ford. I'm now stocking spare shoes, brake cylinders and a few ignition components.
 

Knighttemplar

Veteran Member
Gas boiled out of carb while sitting. Fuel went down intake and into cylinders soaking plugs causing misfire and pushing unburned fuel into muffler where when the plugs cleared it exploded. Check the heat riser valve and make sure it's not stuck, you can also add an insulator between the carb and intake although that make make it ice up in cool weather. Which engine is it?
 
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Txkstew

Veteran Member
My Scientific Wild Ass Guess, is moisture in the distributor or on the coil. Or could be a hairline crack in the distributor rotor causing an intermittent loss of spark. Check points and capicater.
 

Samuel Adams

Has No Life - Lives on TB
I don’t know…..yuh gotta take opportunity where you find it.


Before making my hasty retreat, and immediately following the explosion….I would have HAD to jump up on the cab, shade my eyes as I briefly make visual search of the courthouse structure, and then excitedly shout, “BULLSEYE!!!!”……..


…and then make my hasty retreat.




:popcorn3:
 

Thinwater

Firearms Manufacturer
Check your oil for signs of gas contamination. If the carb leaked into the engine some may have gone past the rings.

It probably leaked while parked, flooded the engine, filled the muffler with unburned gas while you tried to start it, then blew once it got going.
 

mostlyharmless

Veteran Member
I had an old Corvette years ago ... the distributor cap seemed to work its way loose while I was driving. During some ... shall we say ... spirited acceleration ... the car backfired and stalled. I was able to get the distributor cap back on roadside and then noticed the super loud exhaust. One of my two Flow Master mufflers split down the seam, just like yours.

I'm going to guess the backfire originated in the engine, only because it happened to me as well. I also had a V8 and headers, like you.
 

Red Baron

Paleo-Conservative
_______________
The float needle valve in the carb may have gotten something in it(that later got washed out) causing the engine to flood with gas.
The old stuff is great in many ways. But there are two things that made them unreliable. Carburetors and old style ignitions.
Fuel injection and electronic ignitions were actually a huge improvement in reliability.

I'll vote that the float valve is malfunctioning.

I had a '75 Chrysler Cordoba with a 360 2 barrel V-8.

Got to a stop sign and the car stalled. Tried to start it four or five times. One more try and the motor just suddenly stopped turning.

The cylinders were literally flooded with gas. Had to have the car towed in for service.
 

Jeff B.

Don’t let the Piss Ants get you down…
I'll vote that the float valve is malfunctioning.

I had a '75 Chrysler Cordoba with a 360 2 barrel V-8.

Got to a stop sign and the car stalled. Tried to start it four or five times. One more try and the motor just suddenly stopped turning.

The cylinders were literally flooded with gas. Had to have the car towed in for service.
But, did it have “Fine Corinthian leather…”?

;)

Jeff B.
 

Millwright

Knuckle Dragger
_______________
I'd say it was a leaky needle valve at the float too.

Put a fresh filter inline before the carb filter.

If it's the original carb, pick up a rebuild kit...maybe two. Should have a new needle valve, gaskets and such.
 

db cooper

Resident Secret Squirrel
Being a mechanic, and having heard those loud pops similar to a deer rifle, I'd say this was an exhaust noise. My 1958 John Deere will let off one hell of a loud pop, just like a shot gun blast when shut off. Shutting this old girl off stops the spark, and the engine rotates a few turns before halting, which pumps unburnt fuel/air into the muffler. The hot muffler touches it off. (Very loud pops are exhaust, dull muffled ones are from the carburetor)

Similar happened to your truck. I'd say you had intermittent spark. When trying to start, or when it was running rough, unburnt fuel/air entered your exhaust. When spark did come, the hot exhaust from the firing cylinders touched off the mixture in the exhaust, and BANG!.

There are a whole host of issues for intermittent spark. The rain could be the culprit. Loose wires, the coil, most likely points too close, who knows. Also those suggesting carb issues could be correct, as a little flooding would put extra gas fumes in the exhaust too.

I enjoy working on old vehicles like yours. They are so simple and basic parts are still available. Wish you luck.
 

Doc1

Has No Life - Lives on TB
Being a mechanic, and having heard those loud pops similar to a deer rifle, I'd say this was an exhaust noise. My 1958 John Deere will let off one hell of a loud pop, just like a shot gun blast when shut off. Shutting this old girl off stops the spark, and the engine rotates a few turns before halting, which pumps unburnt fuel/air into the muffler. The hot muffler touches it off. (Very loud pops are exhaust, dull muffled ones are from the carburetor)

Similar happened to your truck. I'd say you had intermittent spark. When trying to start, or when it was running rough, unburnt fuel/air entered your exhaust. When spark did come, the hot exhaust from the firing cylinders touched off the mixture in the exhaust, and BANG!.

There are a whole host of issues for intermittent spark. The rain could be the culprit. Loose wires, the coil, most likely points too close, who knows. Also those suggesting carb issues could be correct, as a little flooding would put extra gas fumes in the exhaust too.

I enjoy working on old vehicles like yours. They are so simple and basic parts are still available. Wish you luck.


TY, sir. I was a mechanic back in the era when trucks like mine were still common. It has a 240 I-6 and a one barrel carb. The truck does tend to flood slightly or run rich after it's parked and is still warm. My usual SOP is simply to floor it - WOT - when I start it again. Then it will quickly start with no hesitation. As a side note, the old truck doesn't run hot at all.

Just before the muffler explosion, it turned over very sluggishly when I went to start it. Like others here, I thought the timing might've slipped. Remember that after the explosion, it started immediately and easily. This leads me to believe there was an exhaust blockage which caused the fuel-air mixture to collect in the muffler.

Whatever that blockage was still has me baffled.

Best
Doc
 

CaryC

Has No Life - Lives on TB
The only thing I can think of at the moment is that when I parked, a squirrel or rat had jumped into the exhaust pipe and died or stopped near the muffler. I know that's a long shot, but at least for now I remain puzzled.
I was thinking the exact same thing. So that can't be it.

But you mentioning all the rain, I had a car that had a computer in sort of a new thing, and when it rained it wouldn't crank, turn over yes crank no.

Not the same I know but I'm thinking initially dampness in the distributor, which caused an overflow into the muffler. Not a mechanic so take with a grain of salt.
 

Shadow

Swift, Silent,...Sleepy
My Scientific Wild Ass Guess, is moisture in the distributor or on the coil. Or could be a hairline crack in the distributor rotor causing an intermittent loss of spark. Check points and capicater.
Yes, it seems damp wires and distributor may have been the culprit long enough for the exhaust system to load up.

I remember wiping off spark plug wires and distributor caps when I had no money to replace them. My Fords also seemed to collect a white substance in the cap on the contacts for the plug wires. I had to clean that regularly to limp along. If you have not had rain in a while you would not have noticed any of this before.

Shadow
 
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9idrr

Veteran Member
Might wanna check for advanced timing. Dieseling (running after ignition shutoff) can pump unburned A/F mixture into/through engine into exhaust, precipitating just such an exciting event as described here.
 
TY, sir. I was a mechanic back in the era when trucks like mine were still common. It has a 240 I-6 and a one barrel carb. The truck does tend to flood slightly or run rich after it's parked and is still warm. My usual SOP is simply to floor it - WOT - when I start it again. Then it will quickly start with no hesitation. As a side note, the old truck doesn't run hot at all.

Just before the muffler explosion, it turned over very sluggishly when I went to start it. Like others here, I thought the timing might've slipped. Remember that after the explosion, it started immediately and easily. This leads me to believe there was an exhaust blockage which caused the fuel-air mixture to collect in the muffler.

Whatever that blockage was still has me baffled.

Best
Doc
As an aside not directly related to your question, I would consider replacing your old one-barrel carb with a version that has the correct anodization coating which is designed to resist alcohol fuel corrosion - would not be a surprised to find corrosion in the bowl and vent passage areas of your existing/original carb. Also, replace any rubber gasoline hose connections/pieces throughout your fuel system, including back at the tank, with upgraded hose material that is also alcohol resistant.

We have a collection of old carbureted gasoline vehicles of various vintage, and had to systematically go through each one, over the last several years since the introduction of ethanol gas, and upgrade EVERYTHING to do with the gasoline fuel delivery systems. The ethanol fuel absolutely wreaks havoc with both the old carburetor metals, as well as the non-alcohol resistant old-skool rubber items in the fuel system - including fuel pump diaphragms, the rubber on some needle valves, and some floats made of synthetic/plastic of some sort - brass floats seem impervious, and are to be desired.

While one can run non-ethanol fuel, reliably finding such whenever needed may not be realistic.


intothegoodnight
 
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Wildweasel

F-4 Phantoms Phorever
TY, sir. I was a mechanic back in the era when trucks like mine were still common. It has a 240 I-6 and a one barrel carb. The truck does tend to flood slightly or run rich after it's parked and is still warm. My usual SOP is simply to floor it - WOT - when I start it again. Then it will quickly start with no hesitation. As a side note, the old truck doesn't run hot at all.

Just before the muffler explosion, it turned over very sluggishly when I went to start it. Like others here, I thought the timing might've slipped. Remember that after the explosion, it started immediately and easily. This leads me to believe there was an exhaust blockage which caused the fuel-air mixture to collect in the muffler.

Whatever that blockage was still has me baffled.


Best
Doc
I suggest going back to the scene and looking for a mouse nest that looks like it was blown out of the muffler. There may also be remains of a mouse nest in the tailpipe or remains of the muffler.

I launched a mouse nest out the tailpipe of my F-150 4x4 when I started it for the first time in a while a few years ago. Blew apart the muffler, too. Slow cranking was a symptom until the blast.
 
Yesterday I went to the post office in my classic '68 Ford pickup. The trip was uneventful and the old truck ran perfectly. I did my business at the post office and returned to my truck to start it.

It did not want to start, with the engine bucking, trying to start and then dying. It didn't sound like an ignition problem and it didn't sound like fuel starvation, though if I was pressed to only make one guess that would've been it. It would crank and "try" to start and rumble and pop a little, but wouldn't quite start. I tried to start it four or five times, hoping that if I could at least get it running I might get a better handle on what the problem was.

The last time I tried to start it, there was a huge explosion which sounded - at least - as loud as a 30-06 rifle being fired! This was not an opportune location for such a detonation, as I was next to the post office and directly across the street from the county courthouse! I tried the starter once again and this time she fired right up and seemed to run perfectly... except for being very loud. I figured I'd best skeedaddle before a SWAT team showed up, so immediately drove away a couple of blocks to an open parking lot.

I popped the hood and, paying close attention to the header pipe, didn't see anything amiss. It had been raining so the parking lot was soaked, but I nonetheless got down on my hands and knees to check the undercarriage. Upon doing this, I saw that my (newish) muffler - which looks like a long, galvanized can - had exploded and was split from end to end along its seam, with the seam edges blown apart and out!

Since the muffler wasn't near anything flammable or critical, I started the truck and again it seemed to run perfectly. Deciding to let discretion be the better part of valor, I skipped my remaining errands and drove straight home. Again, the truck ran perfectly and upon pulling in to my driveway, I stopped and started it several more times. Each time it started and ran without issue.

Alright, folks: I'm aware of a lot of the reasons an exhaust system might pop loudly. The exhaust system could be plugged, allowing the explosive fuel-air mixture to collect in it and in the old days you could intentionally make a vehicle backfire by turning the ignition off while driving and then turning it back on again. Some of you may remember the old trick of shoving a raw potato into the tailpipe to cause a large backfire when someone tried to start the vehicle. None of these things seemed to apply here. Remember that it was running perfectly before I stopped at the post office.

The continuous rain has everything soaked so don't have the opportunity to crawl under the truck yet. What could the problem have been? The only thing I can think of at the moment is that when I parked, a squirrel or rat had jumped into the exhaust pipe and died or stopped near the muffler. I know that's a long shot, but at least for now I remain puzzled.

Best
Doc
is this a test? :cool:
 

SmithJ

Veteran Member
TY, sir. I was a mechanic back in the era when trucks like mine were still common. It has a 240 I-6 and a one barrel carb. The truck does tend to flood slightly or run rich after it's parked and is still warm. My usual SOP is simply to floor it - WOT - when I start it again. Then it will quickly start with no hesitation. As a side note, the old truck doesn't run hot at all.

Just before the muffler explosion, it turned over very sluggishly when I went to start it. Like others here, I thought the timing might've slipped. Remember that after the explosion, it started immediately and easily. This leads me to believe there was an exhaust blockage which caused the fuel-air mixture to collect in the muffler.

Whatever that blockage was still has me baffled.

Best
Doc
Dirt daubers?
 

Capt. Eddie

Veteran Member
I had an old Corvette years ago ... the distributor cap seemed to work its way loose while I was driving. During some ... shall we say ... spirited acceleration ... the car backfired and stalled. I was able to get the distributor cap back on roadside and then noticed the super loud exhaust. One of my two Flow Master mufflers split down the seam, just like yours.

I'm going to guess the backfire originated in the engine, only because it happened to me as well. I also had a V8 and headers, like you.
A distributor cap that was going bad caused the same thing on our old snow plow truck (a k10 with a 350.
 

Just Plain Mom

Alien Lizard Person
Son--ASE certified former Expert level Toyota mechanic--says he'd look to an obstruction first. Too much pressure build up and it would blow at the weakest point, at the welds.

He went on to explain that some mufflers have material in them to dampen or change the pitch/tone of the exhaust. That could deteriorate and cause an issue. That happens in mostly cheap ones, and it's rare.
 

EMICT

Veteran Member
I suggest going back to the scene and looking for a mouse nest that looks like it was blown out of the muffler. There may also be remains of a mouse nest in the tailpipe or remains of the muffler.

I launched a mouse nest out the tailpipe of my F-150 4x4 when I started it for the first time in a while a few years ago. Blew apart the muffler, too. Slow cranking was a symptom until the blast.
Uhhhh…. He drove the truck to town, unless Mighty Mouse decided to build a nest in a hot tailpipe in the minutes the truck was turned off, I don’t think this scenario is realistic.

I do enjoy the ‘One time in band camp I….’ responses though.
 
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Ozarkian

Veteran Member
TY, sir. I was a mechanic back in the era when trucks like mine were still common. It has a 240 I-6 and a one barrel carb. The truck does tend to flood slightly or run rich after it's parked and is still warm. My usual SOP is simply to floor it - WOT - when I start it again. Then it will quickly start with no hesitation. As a side note, the old truck doesn't run hot at all.

Just before the muffler explosion, it turned over very sluggishly when I went to start it. Like others here, I thought the timing might've slipped. Remember that after the explosion, it started immediately and easily. This leads me to believe there was an exhaust blockage which caused the fuel-air mixture to collect in the muffler.

Whatever that blockage was still has me baffled.

Best
Doc
I had one of those and if I remember correctly there is a rich lean thermostat with a tube from the exhaust manifold to the thermostat. The tube on mine broke off at the manifold and was causing the thermostat to choke the carb even after the engine warmed up. You might want to check the setting on that thermostat. It's just a coil under that black plastic cover that adjust the choke. It has marks on it with an arrow that points to the lean/rich settings.
 
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