Orion Commander
Veteran Member
Is there a way to determine if the head gasket is bad without just replacing it? The oil change guy thought there may be antifreeze in the oil. I skipped the coolent flush but did change the oil.
…… Head gasket
- Thread starter Orion Commander
- Start date
ChicagoMan74
ULTRA MAGA
The color and texture of your oil in the engine and antifreeze in the radiator should be a tell tale sign.
When either/both start looking like a milkshake...along with more visible exhaust smoke (caused from coolant leaking into the cylinders) you got problems.
EDIT...there are some "historical" issues that can plague engines as well...for instance during certain years in the late 1990s/early 2000s...the 2.4L dodge motors they put in the Neons and Voyagers(and others) had a known TSB for inadequate head gaskets installed from the factory that would start failing @ 80 to 100k miles.
When either/both start looking like a milkshake...along with more visible exhaust smoke (caused from coolant leaking into the cylinders) you got problems.
EDIT...there are some "historical" issues that can plague engines as well...for instance during certain years in the late 1990s/early 2000s...the 2.4L dodge motors they put in the Neons and Voyagers(and others) had a known TSB for inadequate head gaskets installed from the factory that would start failing @ 80 to 100k miles.
Jackpine Savage
Veteran Member
Compression check?
I am not a mechanic but I sometimes try to be one in my backyard
I am not a mechanic but I sometimes try to be one in my backyard
Pressure test the cooling System.
packyderms_wife
Neither here nor there.
Our truck, OC and I are married for those who do not know this, is a 2001 Ford Ranger (yeah, yeah, yeah, I know that's the problem right there 
) with the small 6 in it, if this matters at all.
He also told me it's making a whining noise when the motor is running and I thought it might be the water pump having issues since it didn't sound like a belt squeaky kinda noise.
) with the small 6 in it, if this matters at all.He also told me it's making a whining noise when the motor is running and I thought it might be the water pump having issues since it didn't sound like a belt squeaky kinda noise.
Border Collie Dad
Flat Earther
I used this
Block Tester BT-500 Combustion Leak Test Kit - Made in USA
wobble
Veteran Member
A whine could also be a bad bearing in a pulley.Our truck, OC and I are married for those who do not know this, is a 2001 Ford Ranger (yeah, yeah, yeah, I know that's the problem right there
He also told me it's making a whining noise when the motor is running and I thought it might be the water pump having issues since it didn't sound like a belt squeaky kinda noise.
dawgofwar10
Veteran Member
Also check the exhaust for steam or sludge leaking out..
packyderms_wife
Neither here nor there.
Thanks for the heads up on that one, totally forgot about this being a possiblity.
Landcruiser
Contributing Member
What type of vehicle is this in? There are some where this is a common problem and others where it rarely is... But the Tech is most likely correct...
RememberGoliad
Veteran Member
For the whine, check the power steering fluid level. Air bubbles in that will cause a whine that changes pitch when you turn the steering wheel. Common Ford experience. (How can you tell the Ford guy from the others at the parts house? Simple....he's the one buying Type F and brake fluid by the GALLON!)
Used oil will look like black coffee. If you suspect someone put some cream in it, there's something water-based in it. I've dumped Bar's Leak in Ford V6's successfully.
Used oil will look like black coffee. If you suspect someone put some cream in it, there's something water-based in it. I've dumped Bar's Leak in Ford V6's successfully.
packyderms_wife
Neither here nor there.
See post #8
dawgofwar10
Veteran Member
The 3.0l engine was pretty reliable motor, and bearing whine can from many places so have a reputable mechanic check it out, not talking down oil change mechanics.. but I am.. Unless I miss-read the post if it started off with my mechanic was doing an oil change on my 3.0L Ranger and he discovered antifreeze in the oil, and showed me the chocolate milk shake that had come out, then I would request further investigation from him. Or the steam coming from the tail pipe..
packyderms_wife
Neither here nor there.
I'll hav
Thanks, I'll have him drive my car for now and we can take a look at it this weekend, if there's stuff in the oil the color will probably have changed by then. My sniffer is better than his and will see if the exhaust smells sweet or not, and then we can call the "guy" a local mechanic that a lot of us use to get things fixed correctly.
Thanks, I'll have him drive my car for now and we can take a look at it this weekend, if there's stuff in the oil the color will probably have changed by then. My sniffer is better than his and will see if the exhaust smells sweet or not, and then we can call the "guy" a local mechanic that a lot of us use to get things fixed correctly.
Serpentine belt, check idler and tensioner pulleys....usually first to go.
Tensioner has a square hole in the arm, you stick a breaker bar in there and loosen the belt, spin the pulleys and listen, feel for gritty bearings.
May be easier to use a big pry bar to pull the tensioner back. No need to remove the belt.
Power steering issues will change tone when you move the steering wheel while sitting still.
Other possibilities, water pump, alternator, A/C compressor. Give them a spin while the belt is loose.
Tensioner has a square hole in the arm, you stick a breaker bar in there and loosen the belt, spin the pulleys and listen, feel for gritty bearings.
May be easier to use a big pry bar to pull the tensioner back. No need to remove the belt.
Power steering issues will change tone when you move the steering wheel while sitting still.
Other possibilities, water pump, alternator, A/C compressor. Give them a spin while the belt is loose.
Orion Commander
Veteran Member
Whine and chirp quiet once it's warm so the belt probably is going bad. Old trucking neighbor swore by bars leak.
I was at the local LOF place. I didn't see the old oil.
I was at the local LOF place. I didn't see the old oil.
One at-home test is to put a latex glove or maybe a condom in place of the radiator cap. Fasten in place with a rubber band or some such constricting device and run the engine. Pressure leaking from combustion chambers will cause glove/condom to expand. Should help with diagnosis.
A great place for questions, help and searching out problems is The Ranger Station site.
RememberGoliad
Veteran Member
packyderms_wife
Neither here nor there.
Thanks for the link! I have some balloons and nitrile gloves we could use.
Engine heads can crack or go porous and needs to be tested for this and not all machine shops will have a pressure tester for engine heads and this is a very simple test where the head is sealed and air pressurized then soapy water is applied this test will not lie to you it is either good or the head is bad.
If the head passes this pressure test then just shave the head (mill the gasket surface) and buy a top rebuild gasket kit.
If the head passes this pressure test then just shave the head (mill the gasket surface) and buy a top rebuild gasket kit.
Orion Commander
Veteran Member
That looks cheap and easy.
Orion Commander
Veteran Member
This truck gets hard use. Commute to work. It doesn't get hot. Just warm enough to start putting out heat. The chirping went away after it was driven long enough to get hot last weekend. I change oil based on months not mileage.
Border Collie Dad
Flat Earther
I'm not much of a mechanic but it easy.
Scotty Kilmer on YouTube put me on to it.
DO NOT dump this in.
They say it works great.
You have to drain and flush, pull the t-stat, etc.
If you don't, it will crystalize and block the water passages.
Customer dumped some in, without doing the proper steps.
Had to pull the head and freeze plugs, pressure wash all the crap out of the block and heads.
Helluvamess.
They say it works great.
You have to drain and flush, pull the t-stat, etc.
If you don't, it will crystalize and block the water passages.
Customer dumped some in, without doing the proper steps.
Had to pull the head and freeze plugs, pressure wash all the crap out of the block and heads.
Helluvamess.
Orion Commander
Veteran Member
Thanks Millwright. Never heard of the stuff.
I've often wondered why bars leak doesn't clog the radiator fins if it plugs small leaks. The fins look pretty small.
I've often wondered why bars leak doesn't clog the radiator fins if it plugs small leaks. The fins look pretty small.
Southside
Has No Life - Lives on TB
This.
When you see this, it is rebuild the top end time(aluminum engines may be totally trashed). Drive around using the "milkshake" as oil, and it's get a new engine time.
Southside
Has No Life - Lives on TB
I had a 1994 Expedition with the 4.0 V-6. Drove it from Illannoy to Florida. when we got to the southern part of Georgia, noticed no heat. Drove it there for a week(didn't need heat), and back to Illannoy(where I wish I had heat). Not once did the temp gauge read over 1/2. When we were in the mountains in Tennessee, there was a loud "pop". I pulled over to find the porcelain of the spark plug, attached to the wire, in the engine compartment. Went to the 1st exit, stopped at a truck stop, had it replaced. I knew, at that moment, that the head gasket in Cyl #1, was trashed. Got all the way home, and the radiator let go in the driveway the next morning. It took 2 years for the milkshake to form in the oil.
I love the old iron block & heads!
I love the old iron block & heads!
Orion Commander
Veteran Member
Ok, we need a new head gasket. Oil looks like limeade. New oil is two weeks old.
Is there anything else I should have the shop do while it's torn apart? It's a 2001 3L 6 cylinder with the Mazda 5 speed manual transmission. The transmission shifts like you are dragging a hangnail over your jeans. But it's not a Jaguar tranny either.
Is there anything else I should have the shop do while it's torn apart? It's a 2001 3L 6 cylinder with the Mazda 5 speed manual transmission. The transmission shifts like you are dragging a hangnail over your jeans. But it's not a Jaguar tranny either.
Border Collie Dad
Flat Earther
Check the block for warp?
Consider replacing the vehicle?
Compare all costs and realizing you have an older vehicle that will keep nickel and diming you.
Consider replacing the vehicle?
Compare all costs and realizing you have an older vehicle that will keep nickel and diming you.
Why did the head gasket fail?
Usually, things like that have a cause.
Often overheating, your front end whine may be a water pump?
Usually, things like that have a cause.
Often overheating, your front end whine may be a water pump?
packyderms_wife
Neither here nor there.
Don't know yet, OC dropped it off last night, the guy gave it a look over this morning and will be working on it next week.
Orion Commander
Veteran Member
I think the front end whine or chirp is the belt. It quiets down when the engine gets up to operating temperature. The mechanic said it won't be done before next week. The heads have to go to the machine shop. Probably not more than $2500 when all is done.
I'm wondering if driving it cold without getting hot, just warm has anything to do with the gasket going bad. It less than 10 minutes to work.
I used this shop 20 years ago. The old fella sold it to one of his employees. There are 23 pages of positive reviews. For a 2001 truck it's in pretty good shape. I sure can't replace it for the repair money.
I'm wondering if driving it cold without getting hot, just warm has anything to do with the gasket going bad. It less than 10 minutes to work.
I used this shop 20 years ago. The old fella sold it to one of his employees. There are 23 pages of positive reviews. For a 2001 truck it's in pretty good shape. I sure can't replace it for the repair money.
You might do idler, tensioner and belt, while it's apart.
Orion Commander
Veteran Member
I looked online for a 2001 ranger for sale. Wow $7000 for twice as many miles.