Has anyone built their own worm bin? (Vermiculture)

darkdakota

Membership Revoked
I have been looking at the Can-O-Worms bins. I saw it in action at SeaWorld in San Diego last week. Unfortunately, it's about $120 to have one shipped to Alaska.

I was thinking about building one myself. I have lots of 4ft 2x4's I get for free from work. If I build stackable 2'x2' layers with a rat wire bottom would that work? Would 1/2" or 1" wire opening be best? I can put a tupperware container I have for the bottom to collect the manure tea.

Has anyone used one of these indoors? They claim not to give off odor. I was looking to put it in the semi finished downstairs we have. I am using it a start seedings this year and it stays warm enough to keep the worms active.

Anyone have a preference on the type of worms? I see several are available mail order.

Dark
 

VesperSparrow

Goin' where the lonely go
Does this post bring back memories...
When we lived on the river in Alabama we had several of our own wormbeds. Some were made out of piles of leaves and dirt, some were made out aluminum and some were made out of tin and cowpaddies and whatever else we could drum up. We got our own worms from around the property. We fed our worms from our gardens, the tomatoes, leftover veggies, watermelon rinds, just about anything organic went in them. And we had the bigest fattest worms. Whenever we wanted to go fishing we got out the pitchfork and moved the dirt around and got our worms.
Sorry, know I'm not much help but this brought back some childhood memories.
 

pixmo

Bucktoothed feline member
Compared to the above posts, my setup is very crude. Basically, we put the easily-disposable leaves and safe biodegradable garbage leftovers in a couple of big mulch piles and water them regularly to keep them moist. We try to keep oak and highly-acidics such as pine needles out of the mix.

If it's raining at night in the spring, we go out with flashlights to go worm hunting and throw what we find into the mulch piles. As long as we keep the mulch moist, we usually have no problem gathering worms during the non-winter months; otherwise, if too dry, they migrate underground.

If you raise rabbits, you're really in luck; based on our experiences, worms seem to like rabbit dung. They would go for the rabbit piles versus the leaf piles. If you mix up the piles, they seem to have no problem with that.

Not only will you have a place to raise worms, but have great mulch for your garden. Worms break down the leaves/leftovers faster...plus the worm poop makes the mulch richer and adds nutrients.
 

Karnie

Veteran Member
I have a small indoor worm bin - I guess I've had it for about a year now. The secret to having it be odor free is to be sure you bury the food for the worms. Without burying the food, you'll end up with bugs and stink. I personally find the whole vermiculture experience to be very interesting.

I'm soon moving to the country and am looking forward to having a larger, outdoor bin. I have a friend whose worms "free range". She buried a plastic toy bin without the bottom and buries her organic waste in the toy bin. The worms are free to come and go... but as long as she feeds them well, then they hang out in the toy bin. In winter, they just go deeper in the ground. Of course... we're in Oklahoma, where the ground rarely freezes - or only the top couple inches in a really cold snap.

By the way, they break the food down faster if you grind or blend it before burying it. I generally run things through the food processor before I put it in with the worms.
 

Deemy

Veteran Member
I have right now the canofwormsin my fruitceller. I love it. No smell but one time I put in alot and I do mean alot of cabbage leaves from making kraut. I did have a most awful smell then but only when I lifted the lid. To make your own take two plastic bins and fit one ontop of the other. I would take a small drill bit and make holes for liquid to seep through. In the bottom plastic bin drill a hole and put in a spiggot to drain off the excess liquid. Personally, I'd rather spend the money for the canoworms...Mine is over 15 yrs old and like new plus there is several layers of bins. Well worth the money
 

rhealady

Inactive

Red composting worms should be part of every preppers stash. Worms produce an incredible "soil amendment" (fertilizers have to go through some government process). Be able to reliably produce your own fertilizer and recycle wastes just makes common sense. And, if you raise baby animals it is a fast and easy way to compost the bodies if the bin is deep enough.

I have a can-o-worms which lived in my kitchen for a couple of years with no odor. I think they have it set up so the worms migrate up to the highest level for food. Worms don't like to migrate up. They like to go down and a light on the top layer will facilitate the process . Just keep that in mind when you set up the bin. Perfect for a family.

We also have a worm wigwam which is 3 foot diameter. This is the one I compost the dead animals in and is the workhorse.

I keep three tanks of gerbils to chew and soil newspaper for worm bedding. Food consists of old animal feed, kitchen scraps, weeds, and dead baby animals. You will hear cautions about composting meat but that is ridiculous. Nature uses composting worms just for that purpose. The trick is to make the bin inaccessible to prowling animals.

You can also just make a bin from a ventilated plastic storage tub. If you collect the worms pick them from decaying leaves. The larger garden worm does not domesticate and will escape.

There is lots of information on the net for composting redworms. We have had them for almost a decade and I find them fascinating and very useful.

On another note, we joke about storing valuables in mason jars and burying them in the worm bins. NO ONE is going to go looking there.

Happy worming.

The Roto-Gerbil Worm composting system- one of my inventions using biological systems (1997)
Gerbils as Urban Livestock
A home-based integrated recycling system


As organic farming rapidly grows in Europe and is starting to accelerate in the US, citizens are becoming more aware of the ecology of farming-the interaction of the soil, fertilizers, plants, and animals-as an single, integrated system. For the average homeowner, this concept of environmental responsibility often only means collecting newspapers, cans, and bottles to bring to the local recycling depot with the luckiest ones having home pick-up. Unfortunately, driving one’s car a few miles to recycle small quantities of recyclables is not environmentally responsible. The only true way to practice home ecology is to recycle where the trash was made.

This system of utilizing gerbils and worms to turn newspaper and kitchen trash into the highest quality fertilizer is still in its infancy. It will take many people innovating and sharing their ideas to develop a simple, efficient way to recycle in the home. The concept is so simple-for a few cents of seeds and alfalfa newspaper can be transformed into valuable earthworms and castings worth 100’s of times the value of the gerbil food-with little or no extra work than gerbil owners are already doing!

What started as a joke has become a realistic way to incorporate gerbils into my organic farm by just letting the gerbils do what they LOVE to do-chew! People think of gerbils as pets, energetic entertainers with a few annoying habits we have to learn to accommodate. What if their habits could be harnessed to supply a renewable and recyclable resource? They can be, and we envision common home colonies of dozens of gerbils hired-literally employed to work for food-producing a resource that help to turn a typical home and garden into a more environmentally responsible place. It could also be called small-scale permaculture.

Permaculture is a planned system of agriculture where all the plants and animals are integrated to fill a niche, supplying nutrients or energy to make the system work smoothly and simply with little adding human or petroleum energy. In the true spirit of permaculture, one creature's natural habits and waste products are employed to fill the need's) of another species. Biodynamic farming integrates animals to fertilize crops that in turn provide food for people and the animals.
We are using gerbils as a home-scale biodynamic farm with newspaper as the soil and earthworms and their castings as the crop. In this case, we are utilizing the natural behavior of gerbils to shred waste newspaper which is then fed to composting earthworms. In the process of making their own bedding, their urine and manure add the necessary nitrogen to bring the carbon-nitrogen ratio of the paper into a better balance to feed the earthworms. Earthworm castings are considered the most valuable soil amendment available. Earthworms thrive in newspaper bedding and vegetable scrap food, producing fine quality castings in 30 days instead of the 240 days required be conventional composting methods. Earthworms also have the ability to detoxify their nutrient substrate as it passes through their bodies, so the castings are sought for organic fertilizer commanding $0.25-$1.00 US per pound. The odorless castings are an incredible soil amendment for gardens, tress or house plants, speeding germination of seeds, growth of the plants, and increasing the vigor of the plants. Plants raised in 15% castings are very resistant to insect and diseases. Castings have been shown to lower levels of disease-causing bacteria. Earthworms are an important part of organic or biodynamic gardening or can provide a nice source of hobby income on a small scale.

This started as a joke

In our early days of worm farming we were on an e-mail worm-farming list. One of the common complaints was how messy and troublesome shredding paper was by hand or through a garden shredder. Our single attempt at using the chipper shredder filed the garage with bits of paper. My son had been given two gerbils and we dutifully supplied the creatures with paper towel rolls to chew. On a lark, we threw in a pizza box to see how they would handle such a large item. The gerbils, of course, loved it, making a wonderful nest out of the shredded cardboard. We went back to the e-mail list to ask if all rodents were like this or were the gerbils special. As in any large list, there were enough folks with various pets to provide interesting data. Although not at all scientific, after two weeks the consensus was the rabbits chewed a little, the hamsters and mice chewed until they made a nest they liked, and the gerbils were manic chewers. One of the list British list members dubbed the system “Roto-Gerbil” and an ecologically sound method of shredding paper was born!

Actually, as we continue with this project with our current population of about 50 gerbils, it is clearly a much more efficient way of keeping gerbils as pets. We let them make their own bedding, removing it bi-weekly or so when it is about 7-10 inches deep or when it has an odor usually caused by a leaking water bottle. Some gerbils are better shredders than others and have their preferences. Napkins, paper towels, brown paper bags, paper egg cartons, newspaper, and cereal boxes are the preferred paper products. The heavier cardboards separate the motivated chewers from the ones that just make bedding.**The bottom line is that the gerbils are very happy.**

Gerbils as subterranean animals

The subterranean nature of the gerbils is much more evident with these deep beds. The waterers, the food, their lives go underground. Like miniature prairie dogs, they pop out of their burrows and stand sentry. The behavior of the gerbils in this setting is far different than the gerbil pets in the shallow bedding we are accustomed to. Also, a 10 gallon tank can accommodate 8-10 gerbils without crowding-there is simply more cubic feet for them to live in. When it comes time to clean the tank, we replace it with a supply of crumpled whole newspapers after removing the toxic colored magazine supplements and advertisements. They chew and tunnel frantically. On the down side, it is much more difficult to keep them fed since the food is buried. Whole corn cobs are in the tanks all the time to make sure there is something to eat. It is not their first choice, so when the kernels are eaten, it is a sure sign we need to feed them. This is an excellent classroom exercise, but children MUST wash their hands after playing in the newspaper.*

Getting the paper ready for the worms

The paper has urine and feces, so we clean the tank while wearing rubber gloves, a good precaution when cleaning any animal's tank. To protect the worms from the decomposition of ammonia, the paper has to go through a quick composting so the initial heat does not kill the worms. Put the paper in a shallow bin and wet thoroughly. It can also be mixed with and old feed from other ruminant (plant-eating) farm animals, but it is not necessary. The mass will heat up over the next week, sometimes as high as 130 degrees. We add it to the worm bin when it has cooled down to 80 degrees. In the meantime, the heat is available to use. The composting will slow down if too much heat is drawn off through an imbedded pipe, but if a covered tub is used, it can provide bottom heat for seedlings without slowing the decomposition process.* Household worm bins are fed vegetable scraps and eggshells that would otherwise be composted. Instead of the composting process taking months it takes only a few weeks.*

How I got started and how not to do it

We originally set up a 55 gallon aquarium with a grating replacing the solid bottom. 18 gerbils were introduced. The intention was for the paper shreds to fall through to bins underneath. After about two weeks of this arrangement we concluded that gerbils DO NOT like to be suspended in the air. We had two separate gerbil families separated by grating. Even within the family groups there was serious fighting. They pretty much docked each other's tails until we installed aluminum trays under the grates allowing the paper shreds to accumulate and provide bedding and hiding places. Now we hand empty the tanks as needed every week or two. The gerbils aren't manic and they all have their long tails. A 10 gallon aquarium can house 10 gerbils with sufficient newspaper.

Where do we go from here? As a livestock farmer, I see the need for larger or more automatic waterers, and larger self-feeders so cage cleaning, feeding and watering can happen simultaneously. Feeding the gerbil farm will more closely resemble farm animal feeding. I feed my gerbil farm from alfalfa bales, whole corn cobs, and bird seed supplemented with rabbit pellets, all very cost effective since they are purchased at the feed store instead of the pet store. We do offer seasonal fruits and vegetable from the garden.

This easy system works and is a tremendous amount of discovery fun while producing a high quality product. I encourage gerbil owners to try this home-based integrated biosystem for themselves.
 

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rummer

Veteran Member
My Grandmother had an outdoor bin to keep nightcrawlers in for fishing.
She used a metal tub and buried it half way in the ground and used a small piece of plywood to cover it. On the inside of the tub she layered dirt and wet newspaper. During early evening she would water the grass and later that night when it was dark, we would go out into the yard with flashlights to catch the nightcrawlers. You have to be quick to catch them. Then we would put the worms in the tub to be used at a later time for fishing. They lived and survived in that tub with no problems. They were easy to retrive after being in the tub because the newspaper helped to keep the dirt from compacting, so it was easy to dig through to get to the worms.
 

shakytoad

Inactive
Sure! I just use the crispers in the fridge! ;)


Seriously, thank you for a very good thread!


My sons have a pair of gerbils. I call their tank the "paper processing unit". Toss in a cereal box or a pile of paper and it is reduced to bitty little shreds in record time!
 

darkdakota

Membership Revoked
I think vermiculture is the perfect compliment to a survival situation. Turning household scarps, newspaper, coffee grinds, etc into very high quality compost. Plus have bait for fishing.

If I can stay off the pain killers long enough to hit the table saw I am going to try and frame up a square can-o-worms type of unit. Since Lowe's is trying to screw me out of the workman's comp for the fourth time...they lose everytime we go to court....the money for a commercial one isn't much but not what I want to spend right now.

It seems that the can of worms is stackable units that you start with the bottom ring and as they eat thru the food and bedding you add another ring on top and they migrate upwards leaving the compost int he bottom ring. I don't see why you couldn't have a half dozen rings over the winter and havest the compost in the spring for the garden. Maybe move the worms outside for the summer to a bigger bed and try to increase the size of the "herd".

To those that have raised worms: can they "climb" thru 1/2" square holes easily? I plan on making 2'x2' squars out of the 2x4's painting them with a good latex enamel and putting the rat wire on the bottom. That should encourage the finished product to sift to the bottom, leave openings for the worms to migrate upwards and keep the un-processed bedding and food in the top rung.

Dark
 

flight recorder

Re Member
We've set up lots of worm composters. Used to sell them in our store. You can buy a large Rubbermaid container 15-20 gal. Punch or drill about 6 1/2 " holes along the sides, at the base for ventilation. Insert some 1/2" short lengths of tubing which form a shelf support. Then get some 1/8" thick coroplast plastic (like they make rigid signs out of - you can probably get a small scrap piece from a local sign maker for a couple of bucks). Make your shelf out of the coroplast. You have to cut it to fit snugly inside the Rubbermaid container -this is the hardest part because you want a fairly snug fit so the bedding doesn't slip below the shelf. The stuff is easy to cut using a box knife or heavy duty scissors. The chamber below the shelf is just for excess liquid so it can evaporate.

Once you've cut the shelf and tested it by fitting it into the container you punch it full of drain holes, about 1/8" diameter. Insert the shelf into the Rubbermaid and cover it with a nylon screen mesh. The mesh allows the liquid to drain but does not allow bedding to clog the drain holes in the coroplast.

Now mix your bedding, using potting soil, peat moss and shredded newspaper (about 1/3 part of each). Fill the Rubbermaid to within about 5" of the top of the container and you're ready to add worms and compost. You need a minimum of 1/2 lbs of Red Wigglers but better to start with 1 lb if you can. The lid of the container should have about a 5" diameter hole cut in it, glue some screening over the hole. This allows ventilation.

As long as you avoid heavy starchy type products like pasta, and meat -which takes too long to compost, you will have an odorless indoor composting system. Make sure you bury the scraps, do not leave on the surface as they will attract flies and grow mold. Every three to four months you will replace the bedding, separate the worms and put into the new bedding. Healthy well fed worms will rapidly multiply so you can start more composters for yourself or friends.

Tip: you can get a nice 5" screened vent for the top of the container at an RV supply. They also sell 1/2" and 3/4" screened vents that work nicely in the base of the unit.
 

darkdakota

Membership Revoked
flight recorder said:
Here's a really good book you can get on the subject at Amazon

Thanks for all the info. I checked our library and they have the book but it's out so I have it on hold.

I have a few extra of those bins so I'll try this. Sounds pretty easy.

Dark
 

flight recorder

Re Member
Getting the right worms might be the hardest part. If it's for an indoor composter you need the red wigglers because they are energetic and will chomp thru the scraps pretty quick. Put half an apple in, then pull it out a couple of days later and it'll be a mass of squirming worms. I used to buy them by the Lb from a worm farm but they all seem to have gone out of biz in my area.

Keep the moisture content to a minimum, other than the moisture you get from the scraps you shouldn't pour in stuff like half a pot of coffee etc. Too much moisture is where most of my customers ran into probs. BTW, worms love coffee grounds :shd:
 

Deep Blue Dragon

Senior Member
How to combine worm bin with rabbit hutch?

My rabbit lives in an outdoor hutch. I've been taking the rabbit droppings to the compost bin (a regular one, not a worm bin) or placing them directly on my outdoor potted plants. However, I'd like to take this a step further by placing a worm bin under the rabbit hutch so that the rabbit droppings would fall directly into the worm bin.

However, it looks like the commercially available worm bins have lids. Could I leave the lid off and count on adequate protection from sun and rain being provided by the rabbit cage above? Or should I build the Rubbermaid tub version and modify the lid to allow the rabbit droppings to fall in?

Has anyone has success with a worms plus rabbit set-up?
 
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