this tractor is similar in size to a farmall cub just a little bigger in size with twice the horsepower pulling a hay rake amd mowing is all we use it for lately after it gets warmed up it sputters and starts missing, points?? carb?? any suggestions would be appreciated thanks Mud
farmall 140
- Thread starter mudwrench
- Start date
Condenser, crap in the fuel line or carb, bad coil, bare wire some place, a bunch of other things. Change the plugs, file the points, check the cap and rotor for cracks/breaks, blow out the whole fuel system. If it still does it change condenser. If still does it after that try the coil.
Mkeith54
Contributing Member
Does it have a distributor and coil or does it have a magneto? Mag's are known for breaking down under temp increases. Coils (esp old ones) can do the same thing. If it is a Mag you will have to have it rebuilt/rewound, best bet is to find a bunch of old tractor collectors to tell you who to do it.
Thunderbird
Veteran Member
Probably ignition as has been mentioned. Check fuel system, any contamination can end up in carburator float bowl, clean that also. Using gasohol? possibly you will need to richen carb mixture, adjustment is by screw needles, see owners manual for instructions.
Jackpine Savage
Veteran Member
You might try wiping out the distributor cap to eliminate any carbon tracking. I have a Super M that will once in awhile just quit because of this. Wipe out the cap and it runs just fine again.
i jusmowed one more time to see if it was me or the tractor........... the tractor won sputtering on the hills and in tall grass fuel bowl is very c,lean so i will work on the points and cap maybe clean the plugs and take the coil up to the tv shop and have it checked if that fails i will buy all new and start over thanks
no mag 12 volt system will start in the winter at 18 below just last few weeks been acting up later in the week i`ll take it apart and go through all the suggestions one at a time
D
Dazed
Guest
most likely is the condenser, then check the coil. If it's not that, then try a new rotor and cap.
I have a 340 and once in a while, the weights that adjust the timing wil stick when it's hot and cause sputtering and all sorts of trouble.
I have a 340 and once in a while, the weights that adjust the timing wil stick when it's hot and cause sputtering and all sorts of trouble.
Thunderbird
Veteran Member
Missing under load indicates either ignition or too lean a fuel/air mixture.
You can spray the distributer cap with ether to dry it, (let it air out well before reinstalling). Inspect the cap minutely for cracks. If cracked replace, no fix.
Plug wires on an older tractor can (are) problematic, if not in as new condition replace.
In a few months you may not be able to find parts. This is an excercise in eliminating possibilities.
You can spray the distributer cap with ether to dry it, (let it air out well before reinstalling). Inspect the cap minutely for cracks. If cracked replace, no fix.
Plug wires on an older tractor can (are) problematic, if not in as new condition replace.
In a few months you may not be able to find parts. This is an excercise in eliminating possibilities.
I think the condenser or the coil would stop you, at least until they cooled down. A cracked or tracked cap should be as bad or worse when cold. If fuel is good then I would look at plug wires and plugs, especially if you have carbon wires or Champion plugs, either of those I would replace anyway. There are always exceptions. Good luck with the puzzle.
Runs for 1 minute, quits, restarts in 5 minutes----condenser
Runs for 3 minutes, quits, no restart---turn gas on
Runs for 5 minutes, quits, restarts in 10 minutes--blocked fuel
Runs 15 minutes, quits, restarts in 30 minutes--ignition switch
Runs 30 minutes, quits, restarts in 1 hour---coil
Runs for 1 minute, quits, restarts in 5 minutes----condenser
Runs for 3 minutes, quits, no restart---turn gas on
Runs for 5 minutes, quits, restarts in 10 minutes--blocked fuel
Runs 15 minutes, quits, restarts in 30 minutes--ignition switch
Runs 30 minutes, quits, restarts in 1 hour---coil
it doesnt quit at all just sputters on hills and in tall grass and it only started this a few weeks ago while raking hay......... was very hot that day and i thought a vapor lock.......... when it cooled it would run good then under load it sputters again and stays sputtering until load is off .............
If it clears up when the load is off then it sounds like fuel mixture, partial blockage of the fuel line or even in the tank something may be floating around, had that happen with a sunflower seed in one tractor I bought.
Most likely it is in the carb, a speck of something blocking a jet or the needle. Could be the float is hanging at a certain spot.
It could be the miss isn't noticeable until there is a load in which case it is more than likely a plug wire losing continuity when it gets hot, it will be fine when cold.
Why do these things always happen at haying time?
Most likely it is in the carb, a speck of something blocking a jet or the needle. Could be the float is hanging at a certain spot.
It could be the miss isn't noticeable until there is a load in which case it is more than likely a plug wire losing continuity when it gets hot, it will be fine when cold.
Why do these things always happen at haying time?
LMAO..................... i was thinking the same thing
Thunderbird
Veteran Member
OK to check for a fuel flow problem:
1. Turn off fuel shut off ( winged thingy by the sediment bowl.
2. Disconnect fuel line at carburetor.
3. Turn on fuel shutoff.
4. If you get full flow for 15-20 seconds you are getting fuel to carb. If not find and correct the problem.
Now if fuel flow is OK to fix it:
Replace spark plugs, plug wires, dist cap, points, condenser.
Run it. If it still misses under load, adjust mixture per your owners manual.
Tractors are designed to operate under load, and can carbon up (foul up) if not used
under load or the carb is set too rich. Fouling plugs can be due to improper carb settings, indicated by black smoke when running around under light load or idling.
Starting with a baseline of known good parts simplifys tune ups. You simply cannot afford not to have good new parts the days to come. Go to your Case-IH dealer and get good parts, too many parts now are of poor quality (Auto Zone, even NAPA in some cases).
1. Turn off fuel shut off ( winged thingy by the sediment bowl.
2. Disconnect fuel line at carburetor.
3. Turn on fuel shutoff.
4. If you get full flow for 15-20 seconds you are getting fuel to carb. If not find and correct the problem.
Now if fuel flow is OK to fix it:
Replace spark plugs, plug wires, dist cap, points, condenser.
Run it. If it still misses under load, adjust mixture per your owners manual.
Tractors are designed to operate under load, and can carbon up (foul up) if not used
under load or the carb is set too rich. Fouling plugs can be due to improper carb settings, indicated by black smoke when running around under light load or idling.
Starting with a baseline of known good parts simplifys tune ups. You simply cannot afford not to have good new parts the days to come. Go to your Case-IH dealer and get good parts, too many parts now are of poor quality (Auto Zone, even NAPA in some cases).
intothatgoodnight
. . .
Wouldn't look like this one, would it?
Purchased in ~1961. Have used it strictly for mowing and raking hay -- usually has the sickle-bar side-mounted mower attached.
Sold it a while back -- was still running great.
Recently had an issue on an IH carb on one of our other older tractors -- rubber needle-seat on carb had disintegrated, causing the motor to run rich and load up, surging and puffing black smoke out of exhaust stack -- likely the new gas/alcohol mix finally dissolved the older rubber needle valve material -- IH has a carb rebuild kit available that includes the new neoprene material, that is not affected by the gasohol fuel mix.
Agree with everyone to check the integrity of the fuel delivery system -- including proper venting of the cap -- easy enough to test the cap by leaving it off or loose, while putting the motor under a load -- clean out the glass bowl and assure that fuel flows profusely out of tank, while bowl is off/disconnected (use fuel shut-off valve, at top of glass bowl, to control the flow) -- next, might be a good time to rebuild carb with new needle seat and gasket kit -- simple task, hand tools are all that are needed -- shoot disassembled parts down with a couple of cans of carb cleaner, and use compressed air to blow out all air/vent and fuel passages prior to reassembly -- make sure to set float level to correct height -- also agree that ignition should be shot-gunned with new parts, if current parts are old -- not too expensive, and well worth the reliability gained -- new plugs, wires, rotor, cap, points and condenser. CarQuest sells some (all?) of these ignition items -- was recently rejuvanating a friend's Case and IH tractor motors -- believe he said that CarQuest had all of the ignition parts -- seemed to be good quality when I was installing -- tractors fired right off after replacement -- also, assure that the timing is correct, and the distributor is not loose (by some chance) -- BTW, the distributors are standard Delco 4-cylinder distributors, so parts are still available -- recently had one rebuilt by a shop in Charlotte, NC -- came back nice and clean, with all of the weights and plates movable, once again.
intothegoodnight
Purchased in ~1961. Have used it strictly for mowing and raking hay -- usually has the sickle-bar side-mounted mower attached.
Sold it a while back -- was still running great.
Recently had an issue on an IH carb on one of our other older tractors -- rubber needle-seat on carb had disintegrated, causing the motor to run rich and load up, surging and puffing black smoke out of exhaust stack -- likely the new gas/alcohol mix finally dissolved the older rubber needle valve material -- IH has a carb rebuild kit available that includes the new neoprene material, that is not affected by the gasohol fuel mix.
Agree with everyone to check the integrity of the fuel delivery system -- including proper venting of the cap -- easy enough to test the cap by leaving it off or loose, while putting the motor under a load -- clean out the glass bowl and assure that fuel flows profusely out of tank, while bowl is off/disconnected (use fuel shut-off valve, at top of glass bowl, to control the flow) -- next, might be a good time to rebuild carb with new needle seat and gasket kit -- simple task, hand tools are all that are needed -- shoot disassembled parts down with a couple of cans of carb cleaner, and use compressed air to blow out all air/vent and fuel passages prior to reassembly -- make sure to set float level to correct height -- also agree that ignition should be shot-gunned with new parts, if current parts are old -- not too expensive, and well worth the reliability gained -- new plugs, wires, rotor, cap, points and condenser. CarQuest sells some (all?) of these ignition items -- was recently rejuvanating a friend's Case and IH tractor motors -- believe he said that CarQuest had all of the ignition parts -- seemed to be good quality when I was installing -- tractors fired right off after replacement -- also, assure that the timing is correct, and the distributor is not loose (by some chance) -- BTW, the distributors are standard Delco 4-cylinder distributors, so parts are still available -- recently had one rebuilt by a shop in Charlotte, NC -- came back nice and clean, with all of the weights and plates movable, once again.
intothegoodnight
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yes it does mine is the same except the hood on mine is off a super c previous owner rolled it and bent the old hood all up and mine is a dingy red color all faded will paint eventually but as long as it runs is ok for me o need an implement manual for the layout of the plow hookup i need to made a coup[le parts for it but dont know what they look like
check to see (if there is one) the mechanical advance is free and working,
has the oil been changed, (I once saw a person who had not changed the oil and the warming up would drive water out of the oil into the distributer cap and the moisture would short out the spark.
is the governor free and working correctly,
(besides the things that have been stated before), nothing else comes to mind,
has the oil been changed, (I once saw a person who had not changed the oil and the warming up would drive water out of the oil into the distributer cap and the moisture would short out the spark.
is the governor free and working correctly,
(besides the things that have been stated before), nothing else comes to mind,
byronandkathy2003
Veteran Member
i fixed a ford 9n that did that it was the coil. coils get warm and expand a little bit. if it has a broken wire inside it will cut out when it warms up and expands and when it cools off and contracts the wire will go back together and work until it heats up again. drove me buggy for 3 days trying to figure that one out
well
i just figured it out the other day......... was mowing a pasture and it started sputtering real bad then it stalled i already went through the whole list of things last summer nothing helped called a buddy he says try the needle valve on the carb i turned it out and now even the governor is working again duhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh but it runs
i just figured it out the other day......... was mowing a pasture and it started sputtering real bad then it stalled i already went through the whole list of things last summer nothing helped called a buddy he says try the needle valve on the carb i turned it out and now even the governor is working again duhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh but it runs