…… Adding hydraulic remote outlet to tractor.

RememberGoliad

RememberGoliad

Veteran Member
Old Deere 2020 with loader but no rear remote outlets. Now I need one. Bought a valve manifold and plumbed it in series with loader control valve. Nothing happens at the back of the tractor when I hook a cylinder to it. Loader lift and curl work as before.

Before I go and declare this Amazon valve a lemon, should it have been plumbed in in parallel with the loader valve? I mean, pressure side to pressure side and return line to return line? I'm thinking there's some relief valve that's holding all the pressure back from being able to do work in the 2nd-in-line valve manifold..... but no clue. Anybody out there have any insight? I can get pics if they'd help.
 
buttie

buttie

Veteran Member
I have a 1010 JD, now for sale on Craigs List, and these are open center hydraulic systems. So that means you need to plumb the valves in series. Or plumb the out of valve 1 to the in of valve 2 and the out of valve 2 to the reservoir. I am now doing the exact same setup for a hydraulic top link on the Massey Ferguson 202 tractor I bought to replace the JD.
 
RememberGoliad

RememberGoliad

Veteran Member
The 10 series is open center. Mine is a crackheaded hybrid inbred red-headed stepchild setup. The ones that come with remotes are closed center but the power steering is open-center with its own pump but same reservoir. IDK if the aftermarket valve is open- or closed-center. But it's set up in series now and the original valve (controlling the loader) works fine and as it did before the changes, while the newer valve that I added 'downstream' in series does nothing. Doesn't even tweak the pump or engine load.

I know it's got fluid flowing through it because the loader works and that's the ONLY way for the return to return is through the second valve. I'm stumped. Uploading a vid of it to spewtube now, will provide link as soon as it gives me one.
 
RememberGoliad

RememberGoliad

Veteran Member
tech said:
Been many moons ago, but IIRC the lines need to be in parallel.
JD 3010
Click to expand...
That's gonna look funny as hell since all I have here is 8ft hoses to run to the back for the quick connects, and I've only got to go a foot at the most :D .... but I do have some black iron tees and nipples and will prove this out tomorrow if there's time in the day to do so. And if it does work, I'll grab the appropriate hoses next trip into town.

Not only that, but this one's bucket valve is actually in parallel with the rest of the tractor, being that it is supplied from a tee in a pressure line and returns to the filter housing. Kinda silly now that I think about it that my first impression was to plumb the new valve body up in series....had I done it in parallel, the remotes' valve SHOULD work the same as the loader's valve.

Been a long time since my fluid flow classes but I keep thinking that there's something in the 'primary' valve (first in line) that is robbing all the potential from the moving fluid and keeping it from actually being able to do any work when it gets to the 2nd valve. If both valves are internally plumbed this way, then to get any work out of the 'secondary' set of spools I do indeed need to have them in parallel. We shall see sometime over this weekend. Thanks, Tech.
 
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