Story Veta (Book 2) (complete)

[Kathy in FL]

Chapter 101: April 24 – Petra (Aqaba), Jordan

Oh my word, what a day this has been. We docked early and I had Edda, Pei Shin, Jae, and Robin off the ship as soon as customs and immigration had cleared things for disembarkation. I was wired for sound and movies and I kept the lens covered until after I had spoken with the guide and driver. At first they were uncomfortable and I was prepared to give it up but after they placed a call, everything turned out fine so long as I avoided the faces of anyone we might run into and so long as we would not be selling the film.

“Oh definitely not. It is only for the parents of these students so that they will know what they are doing during the day. It is a bit like having extra chaperones.” Not the entire truth, but not precisely a lie either. But it fit so neatly into his worldview that it was easy for him to accept.

Once that was out of the way we took a small van and drove approximately an hour to Wadi Rum, one of the most impressive of desert landscapes in the world, or so our guide assured us. We were only there fifteen minutes when we met our new driver for the remainder of the day, an English-speaking Bedouin. He quickly loaded us into a 4x4 jeep for a tour of Wadi Rum where we followed in the footsteps of Lawrence of Arabia, climbing sand dunes and rock bridges. The sights we saw included Nabatean Temple, Lawrence Spring, Sand Dunes, Khazali Canyon, Little Bridge, Um Frouth Rock Bridge, Lawrence House, Burdah Rock Bridge and Arch and several more that I just can’t bring to mind right now as I am so tired.

We also enjoyed what was called a Bedouin Lunch. Cute. It was basically a box-lunch to go with a one-hour camel ride. Did I say cute? I certainly got a lot of shots of that activity as well as a bit of a monologue on what I knew of the importance that camel travel still played in the region. The heat of the day was becoming oppressive, and it was time to get back into the air-conditioned van and head on down the road. Wadi Al Mujib – the lowest nature reserve in the world – allowed us to further admire the spectacular scenery that stretches along the east coast of the Dead Sea. Our guide pointed out the marvels of what we were seeing, the views of the deep Wadi Mujib gorge. Along the way we also admired the Mujib Biosphere Reserve, where we saw the natural rock formation supposed to represent Lot's wife. From there we descended 1,407 feet (429 meters) below sea level to the Dead Sea. It is so salty that nothing can live in it and shimmers against the background of the desert. It is the lowest point on earth. Located in the Jordan Valley southeast of Amman, it is one of the world’s most spectacular natural landscapes and the richest source of natural salt.

Yes, the female students and I wore our “Islam-friendly swimming costumes” but I will admit that at the time we had trouble not giggling rudely. Nothing would stay in the water properly, or properly as we thought it should. We enjoyed the unique experience of bobbing on the super-salty waters – they're so rich in salt and minerals that it's almost impossible to sink. Grover opted to stay on land so I could go into the water with the students. He did allow a bit later that he was willing to test the therapeutic mud and dense white clay that is supposed to be so good for your skin. I found out that Grover had really bad skin as a teenager and had been teased without mercy. He’d tried everything and was quite the aficionado of men’s skin care products. However, I was sworn to secrecy or he promised to get in touch with Dev and get some of my old school pictures. Shudder. Nope. His secret is safe with me. The mineral concentration in the mud is used for therapeutic and beauty treatments. Queen Cleopatra and the Queen of Sheba both were said to have known the value of the site and used it.

I suppose I should explain that the Dead “Sea” isn’t a sea at all but a landlocked lake. Almost all of the water for the Dead Sea comes from the Jordan River. And I must admit that the water has a completely different and unique feel to it. It is hard to describe. The water feels … heavy. And smooth. Nearly a gel rather than a body of water. But itchy as well due to its high salt content. As for the area around the Dead Sea I was quite surprised to see how built up and modern it was. There was also an industrialized area down where the salt evaporation ponds are located. I wouldn’t call it a tourist trap, but it has certainly been commercialized. And speaking of commercialization, after we completed the assigned science experiments we climbed out, dried off and changed, and headed to what else … the place where we were expected to spread some economic cheer.

I’m afraid I made Grover a little uncomfortable as I used him as a front … a male front … so that there were fewer problems with vendors. Jae figured the game out and also played a leading male role for his sister and the other two girls. I could tell Edda was struggling not to roll her eyes and Pei Shin looked a little too sweet … which probably meant he was going to get it once they returned to their family cabin. Only Robin seemed to take things for what they were on the surface and have no problems with it.

Vit had expressed an interest in obtaining some things he had heard could be bought at the bazaars near our location. First, of course, was Dead sea mud. I’m not sure what to make of it myself. I’m not one to go to a spa or some other bit of nonsense but I have taken a mud bath before and quite enjoyed it if you want to know the truth. While the “mineral mud” wasn’t cheap, it was less expensive than similar products I’ve seen in the States. As a lark I got a container for Christine and intend to tell her to smear it on Derrick next time he gets irritating. It should make for a bit of fun. I have to admit that Vit and I had a bit of fun tonight. He missed another one of those party meetings and I can’t say that either one of us cared any at all.

Turkish coffee will never be my favorite beverage, but it certainly has quite a kick to it. Vit enjoys it and I also brought a bit back to leave in Mr. Baird’s office for Henry and Barney on those certain days. On the other hand, I might be better off making everything decaf.

Treats that were sampled include baklava and barazak cookies (sesame cookies). I bought a selection of Arabic spices and I noted with interest that Robin did as well. Apparently she’d overheard her father speaking of the shortages appearing back in their home and she wanted to try and help “Cookie” who was her former Nanny turned housekeeper for their family. A thoughtful girl. Intellectually she may not be as bright as the other three, but she’s no slouch either and certainly an appreciated member of the Club. Occasionally she exhibits a deeper understanding of some concepts.

I was tempted to buy Kohl eyeliner, but I had sufficient make up. Pei Shin on the other hand did buy some and explained that she already wore eyeliner on most days to keep her eyes from disappearing into her face.

“Nonsense, you’re lovely.”

“Thank you Mrs. D but Mum says that it’s all right for me to wear it if it makes me feel better … and it does … just so long as I’m not using it as a crutch and getting as heavy handed as some of the girls do.”

I’m afraid Jae chose that moment to make some regrettable comment that only a brother can, only realizing too late what a hole he was digging. So long as they save it until they return to their cabin I’ll let them fight it out. On the other hand it might not be a bad idea to ask Aiden to give the poor boy some brotherly advice. He’ll certainly live longer if he heeds it.

I’m afraid I did buy something rather silly today. It … is a painted ostrich egg. I know. I know. But when I spied the one painted like a traditional Ukrainian Easter egg I simply … okay, maybe I could have resisted but didn’t. I managed to get it safely back to our cabin and set it up on the shelf that we have put a few mementos on. Vit walked in and when he spotted it, looked at me then at the egg and then at me again.

“Too much?”

“Er … do you like it Khokana?”

“I do. But if you don’t I’ll …”

“Nii. Er … I am sure it will … grow on me.” Then he laughed when I hugged him and said thank you.

“It reminded me of the Pysanka eggs that we made our first year together.” I sighed. “I hope they don’t get crushed while in storage.”

Vit ran his finger around my ear. “Nii. You packed them in enough tissue and then in what is it you called that container?”

“Tupperware.” I sighed. “Still …”

“We will make them again.”

I gave him a hug and he got that strange look on his face that I’ve been noticing lately. I’d ask him what it means but I’m not sure he even realizes he is making it. And maybe I don’t want to know what it means.

I volunteered to press his uniform shirt and he asked instead if I would share the shower with him. That’s when things got a little silly with the mud and he decided that he would rather work on reports here in the cabin than go to the “meeting” he’d been invited to.

I think we can put the reports up shortly. We keep giving each other looks. Smiling. And then trying to get back to the stupid, endless reports. Oh who cares. I’m going to ask if he is ready for bed.

 

[Kathy in FL]

Chapter 102: April 25 – Luxor (Safaga), Egypt (1)

Everything is turned on its head. I just don’t know what to write or say about it. Or whether I should put any of it down in writing or not. I suppose until I decide I should simply record my day.

I’ve been to Luxor with the Marchands. I honestly didn’t expect to go today as there were so many that had signed up for it. When I mentioned that to Polina when I was picking up my assignment for the day she looked at me like I was being sillier than necessary.

“I assigned the best personnel for the assignment. Whether someone wants to go or not is irrelevant.”

My goodness. I told her she nearly did Angelia better than Angelia did but thought it wasn’t the best time to do so. She was definitely irritated by something … or should I say someone(s). Apparently some of the people that didn’t get picked to go on the B’s ticket were less than pleased. I got the evil eye a few times during the day to let me know certain parties weren’t happy and might just make an issue of it. But as was clear as the day wore on Polina was correct to prefer trained security personnel along rather than just some warm bodies more interested in sightseeing than doing their job.

The kids were all wound tight and our first stop only made them more so. Luckily they made an effort to rein in their behavior since they knew they were “on candid camera” which is something my father used to say. The fact that the day’s high hovered near 100 F also suppressed some of their exuberance.

First stop was an unforgettable experience exploring the mystery of Tutankhamun, the most famous king in the world, complete with our own Egyptologist tour guide. This young king from the New Kingdom, commonly known as King Tut, was around 10 years old when he ascended the throne and died when he was only 19. The students were given the opportunity to be face to face with his royal mummy in his tomb in the Valley of the Kings.

To that end we were transported to the Necropolis of Thebes, the Valley of the Kings on the West Bank of Luxor. There we visited four royal tombs, including the Tomb of Ramses, the Tomb of Horemheb, the Tomb of Merenptah and of course the Tomb of King Tut. The tomb of Tutankhamun is the only tomb in Valley of the Kings that was discovered nearly intact in 1922. As our guide explained, the discoverer of his tomb was Howard Carter. Tut's famous golden mask is on display at the Egyptian Museum in Cairo, but we saw the actual royal mummy of the young king.

After visiting the tombs we were transferred to the are of the Temple of Queen Hatshepsut, the only woman ever to reign over Egypt as Pharaoh. This queen was an ancestor of King Tutankhamun and belonged to the same dynasty. After that, we were taken to see the Colossi of Memnon, the two largest ancient statues in Egypt which date back to the era of King Amenhotep III. He was the father of King Akhenaten and grandfather of King Tut.

Next came food, always an important part of any trip with teenagers. We went to a restaurant in the West Bank to enjoy an excellent Egyptian lunch. After lunch we continued to the Karnak Temples in the East Bank of Luxor. Karnak is a complex of temples built in different reigns, starting with the Avenue of Sphinxes, the Hypostyle Hall with its 134 gigantic columns, the Obelisks of Queen Hatshepsut and Tutomosis I, the Temple of Amon adorned with lotus and papyrus designs, the Granite Scarbeus of Amenophis III and the Sacred Lake. I could tell that some of the students were becoming overwhelmed but we still had quite a bit of time to go.

A short breather to make sure the students got enough to drink to keep from becoming dehydrated, and we then stopped at Luxor Temple, which is dedicated to the Theben Triad of Amun-Ra, Mut, and Khonsu. There we saw statues of Ramses the Great and the Avenue of Sphinxes. It was not until after this location that we rode back to the ship and went back on board.

I spent a quiet few moments in the Cruise Bizarre being tempted by too many things. Vit and I already had things from our trip here with the Marchands but I still picked up a couple of post cards, handled some beautiful pieces of alabaster, nearly got a cartouche of “Dymtrus,” decided against the heavy perfume for sale, and almost succeeded in getting away with only the post cards until I saw the vendor selling spices. Sumac is a popular purple colored one that Angelia had asked me to keep an eye out for. It is great with chicken and you can also use it in making your own Zaater to put on bread. I also picked up some Zaater spice if I didn’t feel like making it from scratch. Vit and I grew a habit of only eating bread with olive oil and some type of spice for our last meal of the day. Zaater was one of our more favorite flavorings to add to the oil.

Here is where the day feels like it started to unravel and I suppose it is either write it down and try and get rid of the anxiety or take a couple of sleeping pills. After getting through security, I saw Vit waiting for me. Rather than stoic he was trying to look … um … non-threatening. I knew something was up immediately.

“Veta? Have you eaten?”

“Nii.” I said giving him look for look. My husband knew me, and he knew I’d seen through whatever the act was immediately.

He led the way to our cabin, closed the door, then signaled for me to turn off the body cam. My anxiety was pinging but I was able to wait until after I had turned the cam off and removed it.

“Is it Derrick?”

“Nii,” he said walking away. Only he didn’t stop but started pacing.

“Vit?”

He finally stopped and then sighed. And explained. But I won’t even try to record the conversation for many reasons but the two biggest is because it involves security and our own current problems. Essentially a major security breach was discovered by Dylan. Vit was not free to discuss the details, but it involves some very high-level clearances and some equipment in one of the diplomatic offices. And some staff in that office that I’ve had problems with in my capacity as interpreter for Mr. Baird.

Beyond the obvious of how that affects us is that they are getting people off the ship to do another security shake down, this one from the bolts out. I was sure that I was being sent home but Vit says just the opposite.

“For whatever reason you are one of the few personnel not under suspicion and you are being entrusted to act as security for a group sent off ship.”

“What do you mean ‘for whatever reason’?”

Vit started pacing again. “A poor choice of words. I am tired. And less than pleased with how things are being arranged.”

“But I’m not being sent home? Not separated from you?”

He stopped. Looked at me. Then asked that we sit down. “You are not being sent home but … I must stay with the ship. Yegor cannot do all that needs doing by himself. And I have my own areas – as well as the connection to Dylan – that require my presence here.”

“So I am being sent away.”

“Do not make this about us Kokhana. I …”

I reached over and put my hand on his and he jumped. “Vit, my primary reason is and always will be ‘us.’ That doesn’t mean I do not understand that there are other issues involved. Just … explain it. I’m not going to fall apart Vit, but I do need facts to work with.”

After he explained that we would be separated, but only for about a week, he said, “I need to know that you are going to be okay.”

Am I okay with the separation? Not really, but I wasn’t going to tell him that, so I told him the closest truth instead. “It is my duty to you and to the Peace Mission.” When he got a strange look on his face I spoke one of my greatest fears. “If we do not succeed Vit, many of the men and boys in our family, including you, could be drafted should war break out. I’ll fight that happening tooth and nail. Whatever it takes. So no, I do not relish being separated from you, but I’ll do my duty if this moves us closer to success.”

I’m not sure what he expected, but what I said obviously wasn’t it. It seemed to both please and confuse him. I’m not sure what that means. Should I be glad that I’m still able to please him in more than just the bedroom or feel insulted that he’d even need to question my commitment and willingness to do what it takes to hold my end of our marriage up? Or maybe I am just overthinking all of this. Probably the latter. Typical Veta, becoming over emotional.

The temporary reassignments will start tomorrow with some of the more high-profile diplomatic groups heading out. To mask that all the crew is also under investigation, Vit and I will take a small contingent of XOs on an excursion while their quarters are searched. The day after that is when I will have to move off ship in the guise of a temporarily reassigned personnel though I will be acting as security in addition to the other crew members. In addition to this, and this is the part that Vit likes least, is that I will also be reporting on any communication, especially anything that stands out.

Vit says that we must get some rest as the week to come will doubtless be stressful for him. For me? I didn’t say it because I didn’t want to make him feel worse. Or sound afraid or needy and therefore weak. The people we take out tomorrow are his friends and we are being used to fool them … knowingly used. Poor Vit. His honor is being pulled in too many different directions. I’m going to see if he would like a massage. I haven’t done such a thing in a while. Maybe it will help. Maybe both of us.

 

[Kathy in FL]

Chapter 103: April 26 – Luxor (Safaga), Egypt (2) (Sunday)

Ugh. I wasn’t even able to start the day with any peace. Mr. Parnell called me first thing demanding to know what was going on, that the entire education program was being upended, and no one was giving him sufficient reason or information. It took me a few moments to get him down out of the rafters. I told him to think of it has an extended Snow Day or similar, but with assignments they are being sent home to complete. He wanted to know if I’d be helping with that and I told him no, that the students would be remaining onboard today so I had to help with an adult group. That his teaching staff were more than qualified for that part but that I would make sure that someone would come down from Security to help with the ship-issued tablets to make sure they still operated on shore to minimize any of the “dog ate my homework” type excuses that might come up.

Vit had been watching me and after I hung up he said, “The little man creates problems.”

I looked at him and said, “Mr. Parnell is a good administrator. However, I think he has a few personal quirks that are being stressed.”

“He has a crush on you.”

At the face I made Vit looked a little too satisfied. “Come. We have time before we have to meet the XOs.”

I was hoping he meant a few minutes of extra sleep but … hmmm … that wasn’t it. Soon enough we got showered, dressed, then headed to the buffet for breakfast where we were to meet the other XOs. I told Vit I needed a moment to check in with Polina and thankfully he didn’t make an issue of it.

Polina was busy but had a few moments for me. I told her about Mr. Parnell.

“Yes, I will send someone to help. And your brother is very sneaky.”

Sighing I asked, “Do I want to know which thing he is being sneaky about this time?”

She chuckled. “He has inserted a program on the student tablets. It will monitor any communication and activity the tabletit used for. I had worried that there would be some cheating, but it appears Dylan thought of that before I did.”

“I assume you don’t mean cheating on their schoolwork.”

“No. I had someone inform that there was a rumor some staff would ‘borrow’ the student’s tablets when they were not in use. To what end I can only guess but the spyware will prevent it from being inappropriate. Now go so you can eat. Your assignment and paperwork will be ready when you get back.”

It was a friendly dismissal, but a dismissal nonetheless and I hurried away to catch up with Vit. I would have very much been looking forward to what the day promised had I not been forced in company with the XOs … or more correctly, the XOs SOs. The only two upsides was that I would be with Vit and we’d be snorkeling.

Immediately after breakfast our group disembarked and walked along the harbor until we found the ship that was going to take us snorkeling at Utopia Island. It turned out it wasn’t a small group tour but a mixed tour with mostly civilian tourists, most of whom were from other cruise ships in the area. Our instructions were to not reveal ourselves to be members of the Peace Mission … and to wear civilian clothing that didn’t draw attention to our identities as camouflage. Some of the SOs went a little … er … overboard. Attention seem to be exactly what they were after. In their words they were going to take advantage of the opportunity to “escape the drudgery.” Their husbands did not seem to mind or consider it unusual. I didn’t dress that way even before I made a commitment to Vit. At the same time I felt ridiculous and nun-like in my green one-piece.

“Sorry,” I whispered to Vit.

“You are called away?” he asked sharply.

“Nii. Um … I didn’t have anything else to wear.”

A little gruffly, as if regretting his previous tone, he said, “You are still more beautiful than they are. And you are mine. It brings me no pleasure to have other males ogling you.” Well yes, I am shallow enough that Vit’s words made me feel better and I was able to relax and try and have fun.

Soma Bay was our first snorkeling stop but not the last. We spent an hour at two different spots where we enjoyed the crystal-clear water of the Red Sea, colorful coral reefs, and just as colorful tropical fish. Everyone aboard the ship seemed to be having fun whether they were in the water or just sunning on deck. Then it was on to Utopia Island itself where we had a delicious buffet lunch and soft drinks, no liquor. What was also strange was that all the women were required to cover up if they were not in the water. They were also required to wear t-shirts in the water if they were wearing a two piece or revealing one-piece. I was the only female in our group that didn’t have to. Apparently my one piece passed muster as the full top with cap sleeves and its “granny skirt” wasn’t the least bit enticing. Trust me when I say the SOs were not at all pleased to be told to cover up.

I stayed away from them by being in the water absolutely every moment I could. Maybe I shouldn’t have. It gave the SOs time to … to …

This is ridiculous. I know what it felt like. A conspiracy to turn strangers against me. But really. It seems so childish and … unrealistic. I can’t point to a single thing to support the way I felt. Nevertheless I’m sure I didn’t imagine the sidelong glances I was getting from people I did not know. It makes it seems like all I think of is myself. Foolish beyond belief. I did catch them trying to throw a few zingers at me through the day, but my one true talent is not fighting. A few times I nearly laughed in their faces when they realized not only was I not taking the bait, I apparently didn’t care about their attempts at all. Score one for Veta.

As I said lunch was phenomenal. Some of the more notable components were Kushari which is a mix of rice, spaghetti, small round macaroni, vermicelli, fried onions, black lentils and hummus, topped with thick tomato sauce, garlic and vinegar sauce, and chilli sauce put together in some kind of art. That mix may sound strange, but was totally worth trying. And it got a smile out of Vit when the others remarked on my … unique … taste. He told a few stories on me but I didn’t care, just smiled, blowing the XOs minds if not their SOs. Then there was Sayadeya which is a dish that is mainly cooked in coastal cities like Suez, Portsaid and Alexandria. It is made of white fish such as bass or bluefish, and cooked with yellow rice, onion, spices, and tomato sauce. It is then baked in an earthenware pot. Add falafel, lava beans, and a couple of different Egyptian flatbreads as well as hummus and I had to admit I ate more in a single meal than I have in a while.

After lunch we caught a glass-bottom boat and took a ride around the island to watch the teeming marine life of the reef. This was for the benefit of those on the charter boat that did not partake of snorkeling. We stopped at the island for over an hour which gave us a chance to do a little exploring. However, there are no shaded areas on the island and more than a few of those I saw got more than just a little pink due to lack of protection on their part. The SOs tried to complain a bit but I told them, “Be glad you covered up or going by the parts that weren’t covered, you’d be red as a lobster all over.”

“Sure, that’s easy for you to say. These tan lines are going to be impossible to fade out,” Barb snapped.

“Sure they’ll fade. We’re all going to be so busy for the next bit there won’t be time to lay out in the sun anyway.”

“What do you mean … busy. I’m staying on the ship.”

I looked at Vit and he shrugged. I turned back to Barb and said, “Sorry. I haven’t gotten my assignment yet, but I know it is off-ship.”

Chief Dutton said, “Barb and the others are going to be doing some fill-in for housekeeping and …”

“I’m what?!”

“We’ll talk about it back on the ship. Don’t make a scene. Or would you rather go home to your Da? It can be arranged.”

I’m not sure what the look between the two of them meant but it wasn’t a happy look and I’m sorry I caused it. However, when I said as much to Vit when we eventually got back to our cabin he responded, “You did not cause it. There are problems there. Veta?”

“Want to share a shower?” I asked him playfully after assuring myself that Vit wasn’t angry.

“Yes. But … why did you let those women speak to you as they did?”

I actually hadn’t thought Vit had noticed. “Um … let’s just say it is a girl thing and leave it at that?”

“I would but … this is more than what you and your sisters call a girl thing. I had thought that their original nonsense would cease once their husbands became aware of it.”

Oh dear. “Vit … some people … females … are just …”

“Incomprehensible?”

He looked so confused I smiled and hugged him despite both of us needing a shower. “That’s a pretty good word for it. Don’t worry about it. I … I gave as good as I got by not fighting them. Or should I say by not allowing them the satisfaction of getting a rise out of me. Plus … there’s the job.”

“The job?”

“Vit I may not have asked for this particular … assignment, but I do take it seriously. Plus my behavior reflects on you every bit as much as their behavior reflects on their spouses. If I was to go around being catty or fighting all the time it would look awful and you’d get drawn in. And those blasted body cams mean everything we do is up for inspection at any time. Not to mention they are archived in case there is an investigation. I … I suppose trying to be self-controlled makes me see snobby or snotty to your friends but … I just don’t see any other way through it. Not for me.”

“You do wish for them to like you,” he said, thinking he’d figured it out.

“I did … in the beginning. Now … all I want is to do a good job, set a good example, and fulfill this mission. So long as none of that keeps us apart.”

He shook his head and sighed. “You women are all … all …”

“Incomprehensible.”

Nodding and starting to get into the spirit of saving water he said, “Very much so.”

I laughed and raced him to the shower. And that was the last good time we had. After we got out of the shower we decided to grab a bite to eat, I even agreed for it to be in the XO Lounge rather than in the buffet. On the way however, I remembered that I still needed to get my assignment from Polina and swung by there to pick it up.

“I was just about to call you,” Polina said. Her face was very stoic.

“My apologies for not coming sooner. I …”

“Nyet. My office please. You as well,” she said referring to Vit.

Once inside Yegor joined us. I tried to step back to let Vit, Polina, and Yegor take precedent but Polina wasn’t having it. “Veta this includes you.”

“What has Dylan done now?” I asked trying to hide my immediate feeling of annoyance.

“Nyet. Or should I say, it is not making him happy. First, the security breach is more serious than we thought. It is going to take time to unwind so we can continue.”

“How much longer are we talking?” Vit asked.

Polina answered, “From one week to three. We are still trying to build a story to keep crew and other personnel from suspecting what is taking place. Or if they suspect, the depth of the seriousness.”

Having dealt with the personalities too often because of my work in Baird’s office I said, “Stroke their ego.”

Yegor chuckled. “Know them well I take it?”

I shrugged and looked at Vit who nodded for me to continue. “They all … or should I say the ones that I’ve dealt with … have egos. I’ve also heard stories from the high school students about their families. If the story – regardless of what it is – strokes their ego they’ll be more likely to accept whatever you want them to do.”

I was still trying to absorb the idea that I was going to be separated from Vit for nearly three weeks as the other three spoke logistics of those remaining on board. I waited for them to draw breath and quietly asked, “What is my assignment?”

Vit looked like he had forgotten and Yegor looked surprised which told me that Polina really didn’t talk to Yegor about everything.

“There is a group going further into Egypt, then to Israel, then to Jordan. You will be a senior security …” Vit started to say something but Polina just looked at him. Finally she turned back to me. “You speak the languages necessary. As a female you will be challenged, but your personality does not require subservience to carry off the position. Unfortunately several in the group suffer from … how did you say the other day … testosterone poisoning.”

When she named them I could feel my face become my own version of stoic. “Understood.”

She handed me my packet and then handed Vit a list of those that were staying aboard. I got the feeling she did it to create a distraction to draw Vit and Yegor’s attention away from the packet she handed me. It was much heavier than if it just held papers. She looked at me and I knew for certain that had been her intent. Whatever was in the packet was for my eyes and not Vit’s. Not feeling the warm and fuzzies from that I was further surprised, yet not, when Vit told me he and Yegor needed to go over the names and he would be late coming back to the cabin but that I should go eat without him.

Instead of going to eat I took the packet back to our cabin. Inside was my assignment papers but they included permissions for going armed at all times. How she got that from Israel and Jordan I have no idea, it was strange enough that I got such permission in Egypt. I started packing a duffle bag and put my issued side arm inside so I wouldn’t have to explain to Vit – who I shouldn’t have to explain these things to but I didn’t want a “conversation” before leaving on assignment. There was also another gun with a note that stated I was to carry it concealed at all times … all times … as well as the permission for it. When I read the signatures on the permission certificates I blanched. Suddenly I was dealing with something far scarier than I had thought it would be. There was more going on than I thought. Certainly more than I thought I would be privy to. I don’t even dare to put most of my thoughts in this journal and those that are already here I am putting under a “lock and key” program that I snitched from Dylan last year to keep him out of the family Christmas list. He was hacked that he couldn’t hack it. But what was fun and games then is all serious business now. I don’t even want Dylan knowing what his little sister might be getting into.

 

[Kathy in FL]

Chapter 104: April 27 - Cruising the Nile River, Dendera

To say this day has had highs and lows is an understatement. Vit did not come back until very late last night and he was so troubled I didn’t know what to do to help. In his words after I asked he said, “You cannot.”

This morning we were both very stressed. It is like he kept waiting for me to do something and when I didn’t he looked at me with that strange look he has had recently. The problem is I don’t know what he expected. I know my duty and I will do it to the best of my ability. It isn’t just a matter of embarrassing myself anymore. I do not wish to embarrass him or put the mission at risk.

We said good bye in our cabin as neither one of us wanted others to see our emotions at the gangway. Not to mention public displays of affection while in uniform are frowned upon. He was going to walk me down but got called away before we could even reach security.

“You will be careful,” he demanded in Ukrainian.

“For you always,” I told him in the same language.

It was going to have to be enough. I turned to make my way on my own. I heard angry voices and had a premonition my day was about to get worse. Sure enough Polina stood there, toe to toe, with several chief of staffs. Not all of the comments and complaints were in English so I’ll simply boil them down to the fact that many of the males in the group resented having a female senior security staff they believed had been sent to spy on them. It is obvious from the very beginning that they are going to try to marginalize her presence. But Polina spiked some of that by making sure that I was the only one with the security accesses necessary for certain reports and communications.

She couldn’t afford to show any sympathies but she’d taken the time to put a note of commiseration in the packet she handed me yesterday. I nodded respectfully but I’m sure she caught my meaning. I would do my duty.

Their first attempt to pigeonhole me was a demand by one of the chiefs of staff of the diplomats to demand I play tour guide. Having already met the gentleman assigned to be our guide with the high schoolers there was no way I was going to see him insulted in that way.

“Professor Gamal is an excellent professional Egyptologist. The secondary students were all privileged to have him guide us in Luxor. But of course, should he request my assistance I will be more than willing to do so though he certainly doesn’t need me. If you pay attention to the words he imparts, I know we’ll all receive a great education on his homeland.”

I could just scream because for hours I had a stupid earworm of the Billy Squire song The Stroke. Argh! Thanks Devin and his weird music playlists. But I suppose apropos under the circumstances. I’m glad Vit wasn’t around to see the games I had to play. Ugh. Stroke, stroke, stroke.

Stymied for the moment, the staff members settled down and were ultimately distracted as we got under way to see the legendary Temple of Karnak. I’d already seen the gigantic columns, broad avenues lined with stone sphinxes and halls of truly epic proportions with the high school students. Construction of Karnak Temple spanned more than 1,000 years, and it shows in the diverse art and architecture of this Egyptian site. Thankfully it also spanned the differences that made up the group I am assigned to. It seems they have little else in common … other than their apparent dislike of me.

Often called the largest religious complex on earth, or by some the Temple of Temples, Karnak Temple is one of Luxor’s essential ancient sites and at least some of the Staff realized it was a privilege to visit. Within Karnak Temple we visited key areas such as the enormous Hypostyle Hall, the Sacred Lake, the Temple of Khonsu, and Ramesses III Chapel.

Karnak Temple’s ancient name is Ipet-Isut, meaning “the most sacred of places.” The temple, or, more correctly, the complex of temples, was built over more than two thousand years by generation after generation of pharaohs. Within the complex, the great “Hypostyle Hall” is an incredible forest of giant pillars covering an area larger than the whole of Notre Dame Cathedral.

Occasionally Prof. Gamal would signal me to redirect some of the female staff members who were either falling behind due to interest in something, or because the heat of the day was affecting their ability to keep up. When our tour was over with I made a point of thanking the man. He’d certainly shown more foreberance than I thought he should have had to.

More European that many of his cohorts he admitted, “On days such as this I know why I prefer students.”

I would have agreed but I wasn’t in a position to. As we parted ways I was once again deliberately ignored until it was time to board the boat that would convey us down the Nile. They apparently had thought that Polina was bluffing or that they would be able to talk their way around the permissions that only I held. When I point blank told one of the diplomats “No” when he demanded I turned the papers over to him I thought there was going to be a brawl.

“Do you really think I am going to fail in my duty? I have been assigned to assure the senior diplomat council that I am taking your safety into account in all things. Making any of you vulnerable by placing these documents in your hand could also lead to questions of preferential treatment and I won’t be party to that either.”

“Then you will turn them over to the private security forces that I have hired.”

Essentially, despite my surprise and distate at their subterfuge I refused to budge. They had no choice but to stand down because I would not receive corresponding security codes that told me which communique to use accept at the beginning and end of each day.

On the ship I was shunted to a barely closet sized space that didn’t even contain a real bed but where a cot had been thrown in there at the last moment. The diplomats learned the hard way, the same as others have, that my talent for not fighting very often overset those who were trying to instigate. Apparently they didn’t realize that I still had a body cam that was transmitting.

I’m sitting here in my little closet now sending a report to Polina via the encrypted private line I have with Dylan. I say what I need to and hopefully Dylan will stay out of it. We each have our part to play in this comedy of fools … some classical catch phrase like that. Certainly it sounds like something the diplomats would say. They are in the parlor blowing too much hot air saying such things now. I think it is in part because they thought to show I wasn’t up for the job and now know that perhaps I am not the lame duck they thought me to be.

That’s the part I really don’t want Dylan to know about but I suppose even if I skipped over him and could go straight to Polina he would eventually find out. So will Vit. Either way it is time for the telling.

The so-called “private security” is nothing more than mercenaries. I don’t know who instigated the attempt but basically one of the “mercs” attempted to prove I wasn’t up to the task and tried to take me at the railing. I’m not bragging to say that the man severely underestimated me. I was not the one that went over the railing with extreme prejudice or was nearly shot.

In front of God and everyone I dressed down all three chief of staffs. “I don’t care who hired them. The B will NOT foot the bill for this one so you better be explaining that to your bosses. And another thing, if anyone tries that bit of stupidity again there is a good chance someone is going to wind up dead. Do you understand?!”

“You cannot speak …”

“I already have. I could have killed that man. I was perfectly within my rights and job description to have done so. In the process however, when all of your foolishness was exposed, what will be damaged is the diplomats’ duty and the relationship that that the Peace Mission is trying to build with all the countries we are traveling to. How could you let something like this occur?! And let us not even get started with the fact that these mercenaries would certainly not turn a blind eye to being used on a fool’s errand even if they are getting paid for it. And since this brings up the issue of loyalty, what assurances that these men will remain loyal if they aren’t being paid? Or if they are offered more in the middle of a mission will they jump to the higher paid job over their current duties?”

I don’t really think I made much more than a few more enemies but it needed saying. It needed airing out. The result was they tried to prevent me from accessing communication to Polina to report, but as I said I have more than one way to communicate thanks to what Polina gave me in the packet and my own computer. What a mess. I suppose I need to find some way to secure this place – and my belongings – on the off chance that someone tries something worse during this floating nightmare.

 

[Kathy in FL]

Chapter 105: April 28 - Dendera, Cruising the Nile River, Luxor

Like its twin shrine, the Temple of Karnak, the Temple of Luxor stands on the site of ancient Thebes, the once flourishing capital of Egypt’s New Kingdom. It was built over hundreds of years and even in ruins it is still an extraordinary place. Today we visited the Temple of Hathor, dedicated to the goddess of love and beauty. Obviously it had no effect on those I was assigned to protect.

The leader of the private security approached me before breakfast and apologized for his man and explained that it wasn’t their normal method of handling things. He asked me for my qualifications. I wanted to say something like, “Day late, dollar short” or “Wouldn’t you like to know.” However I didn’t want to behave as juvenilely as some of the diplomatic staff were behaving.

Instead I told him, “Sufficient.”

The man snorts humorously. “Sounds like a movie line. And to be honest I wish I could accept it. But I have a reputation. I need to know whether I need to include you in any number of possible rescue targets.”

Accepting that he wasn’t simply going to let this go and might even have the best of intentions I explained my qualifications aren’t just for show and that I’ve used them in the past.

“And you’re a teacher.”

“Former tutor. I’d just as soon go back to it but that isn’t where life has led me. I am willing to try and work within the group but my priority is the Peace Mission … and protecting this contingent, even when it appears I need to protect them from themselves. If you have been led to believe there will be a direct frontal assault of some kind that hasn’t been a problem thus far. Most of it is cyber security and keeping the diplomats, support staff, and their families from putting themselves at unnecessary risk.”

He asks me about some of the past incidences, and one in particular that he apparently found out about by reading the news. The abduction attempt of the staff person acting as a nanny. I explained that the motivation wasn’t the Peace Mission but religious troubles in the region. “The young woman was considered to be a target of convenience for ransoming or trafficking.”

The man is more personable than I expected and we continued to discuss security issues through breakfast until it was time for me to follow the group going ashore. He had asked leading questions a few times until he realized I was not going to bite. Dylan taught me better than that and my experiences of the last couple of years has only added to my skill. I believe a lot of it comes from my talent for refusing to fight. I may not be great at my job, but I can at least admit to myself that I now believe I am good at it.

Certainly I am good enough that I am sure that while someone carefully went through my little closet, they didn’t find my tablet … which came with me off ship … nor the communication device and other odds and ends that Polina had given me. They also will not find my other little odds and ends that I’ve been building tonight. Certainly they were a little singed by their superiors on the B. I also found out today that other diplomatic groups pulled the same stupid stunt of hiring “private security.” A security breach has already occurred and that bunch is now being held in a location of Polina’s choice and the “private security” was turned over to the Egyptians. I don’t believe anyone is pleased by the change. Certainly there was some anger during the dinner hour.

However I will admit that the day itself wasn’t completely horrible even with some intentionally ignoring me. Oh well, two can play that game and the times I could have made it easier on some of them … you can guess that I did not.

When some of the group debarked at the Temple of Dendera. I led them … and the tagalongs assigned by the merc leader.

At Dendera we returned to the time of the pharaohs yet again with a tour of Dendera Temple, one of Egypt’s best-preserved temple complexes. Located on the west bank of the Nile River on the edge of the desert, this massive complex dates back to the mid-4th century BC, though there are some archaeologists that believe a temple has existed on the site since 2250 BC. We visited the main temple, Hathor, and admired the many examples of Ptolemaic Egyptian art adorning its chambers. We viewed the Dendera Zodiac, a unique bas-relief sculpture from the Greco-Roman period that maps the ancient sky. The original was taken by the French in 1820 and now sits in the Louvre; what remains is a replica. I was able to tell someone who asked that yes, I’ve been to the Louvre and had seen the original and that the replica was very true to it.

The main lure at Dendera is the Temple of Hathor, one of the least ancient of ancient Egypt’s glories, main construction being more or less contemporary with the life of Christ. There are fascinating glimpses of the meeting of great civilizations, with a famous wall relief of Cleopatra VII (yes, the Cleopatra of legend) and her son, fathered by Julius Caesar. Other depictions of Roman emperors make it a Who's Who of the ancient world.

We also were able to examine the controversial Dendera Light, three stone reliefs depicting what some say is ancient Egyptian electrical lighting technology. Others contend that the reliefs represent some Egyptian mythology. In all honesty it is easy to see both sides of that debate so long as you understand that there are OOParts in this world. OOParts is a term for objects that challenge accepted historical chronology. It stands for “out of place artifact(s)”. Some OOParts include the Iron Pillar of Delhi, Adam’s Bridge, the 500K year old spark plug, tools buried in a layer of limestone fifty feet underground, and many more. But I don’t have time to go off on a tangent. I need to record the day and hopefully by then my handy-dandy sneakascope – otherwise known as a de-coding program from Dylan – will have finish breaking the encryption on a piece of communication that one of the mercs attempted to send tonight. The diplomats outsmarted themselves when they thought they could prevent me from reporting in by messing with the wifi onboard. Ah, ah, ah … you didn’t say the magic word. I have my own comm signal that isn’t reliant on what is onboard this ship. What they did do was make it difficult for even their own staff to get communications out and the mercs are using their lines. So stupid.

After the Temple of Dendera the group explored the subterranean necropolis and crypts before returning to the ship. And from there it was on to the Temple of Luxor again. We entered the temple through the great pylon—a ceremonial gateway—where two enormous statues of Ramses II still stand, along with a pink granite obelisk (its mate stands in the Place de la Concorde in Paris, France). We continued into an enormous interior courtyard, where the Abu Haggag Mosque once stood atop the ruins of the temple. You can still see a ghostly remnant of the mosque on the east side of the courtyard, high above the columns, its arched doorway opening into thin air. I saw a few people look in awe, including one of the mercs, but for the most part the reference flew over the rest of the group’s heads.

The temple’s chief architects were Amenhotep III (Egypt’s “Sun King,” also known as Amenophis III) and Ramses II, and it was constructed over hundreds of years, beginning around 1400 BC. It was dedicated to the “father of all life,” the god Amun, sometimes referred to as Amon or Amon-Ra. According to our guide of the day, ancient Egyptians came to the temple to pay tribute to this god during the Opet Festival, celebrated during the annual flooding of the Nile. Once a year, a great feast was held and the statue of Amun was transported via a small sailboat from the Temple of Karnak to the Temple of Luxor. (Stages of the festival are depicted in friezes along the Temple of Karnak’s grand processional colonnade, the construction of which was started by Amenhotep III and finished by his grandson, Tutankhamen who was known as the Boy Pharaoh or King Tut.) At the rear of the temple is the Sun Court of Amenhotep III, as well as the Bark Shrine that was rebuilt by Alexander the Great (who is depicted bare-chested on the walls).

I could have easily been enthralled but I had a job to do. I kept an eye on everyone. Kept stragglers from getting left behind. Tried to make sure the staff remembered to keep drinking fluids so they wouldn’t get dehydrated and medically at risk. Eventually, as it seems with nearly all excursions, we were turned loose in a bazaar. While some shopped for souvenirs, I grabbed some snacks and bottled water. I hate this 007 crap. I hope I am just imagining things but I gave my bottled water to a staff member that was suffering from the heat. She acted quite groggy for the remainder of the day and in fact went straight to her cabin when we returned to the ship. They are saying something about her accidentally taking an extra dose of her allergy medication but just to be on the safe side since apparently I’ve inherited Dylan’s insanity, I now have about a week’s supply of snacks and drinks. In my go bag I also have a water filter that I’ve carried with me since Dev taught me to when I was a teenager and we were “adventuring.” I hope it is up to the task if I can’t get more supplies.

There goes the silly cartoon of the Dennis Nedry character from the old movie Jurassic Park. Dylan has a twisted sense of humor. Don’t worry about getting the reference, very few of my contemporaries do as the movie is nearly ancient compared to what comes out today. Needless to say, the program has done its job so now it is time for me to do mine.

 

[Kathy in FL]

Chapter 106: April 29 - Luxor, Cruising the Nile River, Kom Ombo

More repeats of what I have experienced in the past which made it easier for me to keep an eye on the staff on today’s outing. And a good thing because I had the Junior Staff today and the word “colossal” took on a whole new meaning for them after today’s excursion to the gigantic twin statues known as the Colossi of Memnon. And that was only the beginning.

First we got an up-close view of two gigantic statues of Pharaoh Amenhotep III, better known as the Colossi of Memnon. At sixty feet tall and gazing eastward toward the rising sun, the statues depict Amenhotep seated on his throne. Carved next to his legs are his mother and his wife, with side panels depicting the god of the Nile, Hapi. The figures originally sat in front of the mortuary temple of Amenhotep III. Unfortunately, the ancient temple was slowly dismantled over the centuries to provide building materials for new temples, similar to what took place in Rome to such buildings as the Colosseum. Think of them as repurposed building materials, ancient history style. The twin Colossi continue to stand guard just in a new location, just as they have done for the past 3,400 years.

Then it was on to the Temple of Hatshepsut at Deir el-Bahri. Hatshepsut is considered by historians to have been one of the most successful rulers of ancient Egypt. Both the setting and the construction of her temple make it unique among the landmarks of Egypt; built into the face of steep cliffs at the basin, the temple is made of limestone instead of sandstone, unlike any other funerary temples of the New Kingdom period. Hatshepsut’s successor, Thutmose III, attempted to remove her name from the temple, and many images of the queen were damaged or destroyed during his reign. I got a few smarmy, gender-biased comments about wishing that men could still pull that off. You can just imagine how that flew when the men forgot I wasn’t the only female in the group. Yeah, talk about brewing civil war.

Thankfully most were at least temporarily distracted by our visit to the remote and barren Valley of the Kings, used for royal burials for nearly 500 years. Much of our understanding of Egyptian mythology has been garnered from these ancient chambers, located about four miles inland on the west bank of the Nile. It was here that the bodies of great pharaohs such as Ramses II and Thutmose III were laid to rest only to be disturbed and ransacked by grave robbers both ancient and modern. It is also where the mummified remains of the Tutankhamen are still on display. According to our guide, the idea for establishing this royal burial ground is thought to have originated with Thutmose I, who opted to conceal his tomb far from his mortuary temple in an effort to deter tomb robbers. Subsequent pharaohs did the same, changing a tradition that had endured for close to 2,000 years.

After that last point of interest we returned to the ship and set sail for Kom Ombo. This is when I found out that someone had tried … tried being the appropriate word … to go through my belongings. It is also when I found out that there was some type of special activity. Everyone was expected to don galabeya (traditional Egyptian attire) for a festive onboard party featuring traditional Egyptian music.

I’m not sure if the ship’s staff felt some sympathy for me, or any number of other possibilities. Whatever, I was expected to dress the same as the more affluent staff members. I was doing my best not to abuse their hospitality when I found out that the leader of the mercs – his name is undoubtedly a fake one as they all go by nicknames so I won’t bother to record it – had instigated the idea. I felt freer to simply thank them for their thoughtfulness, but also admit that I was there strictly to provide security, not to act in any social capacity. That said, I was told to keep the galabeya tunic dress as a reminder of my time in the area.

Rather than create a scene I once again thanked them for their hospitality, accepted the gift, but when others weren’t around I put the item in a special bag for electronics. I feel like I’m wearing far too many “aluminum chapeaus” of late, but until Vit can scan the item for spy devices I’m not comfortable simply putting it in my duffle bag. Between the cyber breach that got me off the ship to finding out some of the diplomats prefer their own “purchased” private security, I’m having an adjustment reaction that may have me over reacting.

 

[Kathy in FL]

Chapter 107: April 30 - Kom Ombo, Cruising the Nile River, Aswan

Some days this being alone isn’t so bad. Today was one of them. I was there but not a part of the group. I will say it again, I think many times I prefer teenagers to adults. Yes they are hormonal but with natural reason. When adults are hormonal – both genders – they have no excuse for their behavior. It is a wonder that any type of diplomacy is ever accomplished with staff and diplomats that act as I saw today. Grumpy, crabby, whiney, egocentric people that can’t even stand themselves, or so it seems. Fortunately I was not required to act as guide but the shots from the body cam had to be at least as annoying as living it in real time was.

Breakfast was an exercise in frustration as everyone wanted to be personally served. I snuck back to the galley and asked if I could just have whatever they were eating. I was pointed to a mess hall where I ate falafel made of fava beans inside a pita bread with cheese and scrambled eggs. Quite good, protein heavy, but it didn’t weigh down my stomach in the heat that was already soaring. An important point as it was already time to take those staff going offshore to the excursion to Kom Ombo Temple.

The Kom Ombo Temple, unlike most ancient Egyptian temples, is dedicated to two gods—the crocodile god Sobek and the falcon god Horus the Elder and was known as a place to pilgrimage to for healing. Along with the God of Victory, Ancient Egyptians believed Horus was also a doctor. On the back wall of the temple exists the very first known representations of precise surgical tools. Some of these tools include suction caps, scalpels, bone saws, dental tools, medicine bottles, forceps, birthing chairs and forceps. Construction began under the reign of Ptolemy VI Philometor (180-145 BC) and continued under later rulers, most notably Ptolemy XIII (47-44 BC), who built the inner and outer hypostyle halls. Several of the 300 crocodile mummies discovered in the vicinity are displayed inside the temple. Yes, I said mummified crocodiles.

There was a moment when I couldn’t seem to resist Professor Veta coming out. In conversation with our guide I mentioned that in recent years, crocodile researchers in Florida found a reason to worry. Nile crocodiles, once only a scoffed at rumor, are being captured in South Florida far away from their native habitat in Africa. Thus far no significant reproduction numbers are noticed but if they do start multiplying, it would mean that the waters in Florida could turn dangerous for humans ... or more dangerous than normal. While the native American crocodiles are among the gentlest of crocodilians and only rarely attack humans, Nile crocodiles are quite different in disposition.

Unlike most other predators like tigers, leopards, and American crocodiles, Nile crocodiles appear not to think twice before nabbing a human being as prey. Thus, they have received the infamous tag of the most aggressive crocodilian. The saltwater crocodile is the only other crocodilian that can give it some competition. The fact that the Nile crocodile lives in proximity to humans through much of its habitat means human-croc interactions are quite common. Our guide added that although strong evidence is absent, estimates suggest that about 200 people die every year in the jaws of this fierce predator.

After leaving the Temple we boarded a small boat for a bird-watching excursion along the Nile. We were given a scenic cruise to Aswan and from there we went on a bird-watching excursion along the Nile. Fond memories of Frankie as a boy crowded my head but that led me to take plenty of pictures for Benji who is still as bird crazy as ever. I’m fairly certain he prefers birds to humans on most days if not every day. By keeping my eyes open I was rewarded with sightings of different species of herons, kingfishers, vultures, sunbirds and other wildlife that thrive in the marsh grass along the riverbanks.

And once again we were encouraged to walk through a local bazaar where I picked up more snacks and drinks. Thus far no one has remarked on it because several of them are doing the same thing. I suspect it is because they don’t enjoy the diet that the local population eat which is replicated on the ship.

Back on the ship I secured my belongings – and yes they seem to be gone through daily – and then acted as an observer for the remainder of the evening. I don’t know if I’m doing any good or not. I’m trying but there does not seem much going on except for that one “private security guard” that I threw overboard and his odd communications. It sounds like he is arguing with his mother, but I suspect that is just a cover. Or maybe I am being foolish and I am only reacting to his earlier aggression. Or maybe he is the one that is supposed to catch my attention so that I am looking at him while someone else pulls a sly trick. Gah! I hate this 007 crap.

 

[Kathy in FL]

Chapter 108: May 1 – Aswan, Cruising the Nile

Today was described as an epic day, filled with wonders from start to finish, in the portfolio of activities. I will admit it wasn’t bad, but I don’t know if I would call it epic. Or perhaps I am becoming jaded. We started at the Aswan High Dam, then the Unfinished Obelisk and the beautiful Philae Temple complex, which was moved from one island to another back in the 1970s. But wait, there’s more as the carnival barker would say. We also took a ride in a felucca—a traditional Egyptian sailboat—and enjoyed afternoon tea at the famous hotel depicted in Agatha Christie’s novel Death on the Nile.

I am reading Death on the Nile because I can’t sleep. It is one of my favorite Agatha Christie mysteries. I must also admit to a guilty pleasure of enjoying the actor Peter Ustinov’s portrayal of the detective Hercule Poirot in the 1978 movie version. Ustinov also played Poirot in Evil Under the Sun (1982), Thirteen At Dinner (1985), Dead Man’s Folly (1986), Murder in Three Acts (1986), and Appointment With Death (1988). I have all of the movies saved on an external hard drive but it is back in Pembroke. I still remember when Papa gave them to me. He and I used to watch the worst twaddle when we were traveling. I never have enjoyed what they used to call “chick flicks.” Vit has admitted relief on that particular subject. Ugh. Back on track. Thinking of Vit will only make me feel worse.

As I mentioned the Aswan High Dam, Unfinished Obelisk and Philae Temple was our first stop. The Aswan High Dam, completed in the 1970s, is a marvel of modern engineering that boasts some truly epic dimensions—it is 11,800 feet (3,597 meters) long; 3,215 feet (980 meters) wide at its base; and 304 feet (93 meters) high—with a reservoir capacity nearly five times that of the Hoover Dam. The region was very lucky that it was undamaged by the fighting that occurred a few years ago. From the dam we visited the Unfinished Obelisk, commissioned by Queen Hatshepsut yet never completed due to a flaw discovered in the stone. If completed, it would have been the largest and heaviest obelisk ever attempted, weighing more than two million pounds (907,185 kilograms).

Another highlight of today was the beautiful Philae Temple complex, originally situated on the island of Philae. It was painstakingly transferred to the island of Agilika after the construction of the Aswan High Dam to save it from the rising waters of Lake Nasser, a daunting endeavor that took 10 years to complete. The three principal monuments on the island all date from the Ptolemaic and Roman periods—the Kiosk of Trajan, the Temple of Hathor, and the Temple of Isis.

When we left the Philae Temple complex we took a boat ride in a traditional Nile River felucca and afternoon had tea at the Old Cataract Hotel Aswan. First we sailed serenely down the Nile in a felucca— a small traditional boat with large triangular sails. Noted as a wonderful way to experience the river as Egyptians have for a thousand years, I must admit that I was rather fascinated by the experience. It helped me to disconnect from the intentional rudeness being shown to me by the other security and staff members. Later, as a group we relaxed over afternoon tea at the historic Old Cataract Hotel Aswan, a colonial-era gem that counts Winston Churchill and Princess Diana among its former guests. This famous hotel was depicted in Agatha Christie’s acclaimed mystery novel Death on the Nile.

While at the hotel I overheard local gossip telling of a Nile crocodile attack around the Aswan which is out of the croc’s normal habitat.

"Some people buy crocodiles from the Friday or Tuesday markets and raise them in their bathtubs, but when the crocodiles grow the owners release them into the tributaries," said Fahmy.

One of the diplomatic group was an environmentalist and he explained that experts believe that crocodiles might have crossed the Aswan High Dam as Nile water levels were being topped up, and slowly made their way north. An alternative explanation is that the crocodiles could have escaped from illegal crocodile farms in Aswan, where they are raised for their profitable leather.

I’m not sure that I particularly care how the crocodiles made their way to the area. They are extremely dangerous and unlike the American Alligator very aggressive. It is also larger and faster with a stronger bite. Not a invasive species I would take lightly.

I believe I am written out and I can either go back to reading or perhaps even lay here quietly even if I don’t fall to sleep. Like a ghost in the wall; not seen, not heard, even when I make the effort. If I were to simply disappear, would anyone notice? Or care?

 

[Kathy in FL]

Chapter 109: May 2 - Aswan, Cruising the Nile River, Kom Ombo, Edfu

Today was a leisure day for the diplomats. Or at least their version of it; there were no meetings with outside agencies of any flavor or variety but they continued to meet amongst themselves though in a more casual setting. However, for me there was an excursion to see the magnificent temples of Abu Simbel with the young adults for whom “just sitting around” did not appeal. I didn’t have to go. It was my own nominal day off. But I could not abide the idea of staying aboard in the middle of all of those people that resent me being there.

The merc leader, who still hasn’t given me any designation to call him other than “Number One,” is polite but the rest of the group coldly ignores me. I’ve even caught a couple of them sneering … and not caring if I saw or not. I think, at least in part, it is because I refuse to react to their behavior. I’m not sure if it is contempt or testosterone poisoning or just what. It is annoying. It is also … depressing. And yes, it hurts. I am not used to this level of rejection. I know I am turning this into something that I should not. If I’m going to survive in this world that I am currently working in I need to keep perspective.

When I was giving myself this lecture for the umpteenth time on deck this morning I snapped a bit at Number One concerning some of the really ill-bred behavior his men were exhibiting. Number One seemed interested in hearing my opinion but his second in command or whatever they think of themselves as responded, “We aren’t taking tea with the queen, Love.”

Ignoring the man I addressed Number One. “Take some advice, freely given. I have a brother that operates … let’s call it on the administrative end of your industry. If you are going to operate in polite society, some of your men need to be socialized.”

“Socialized?”

“For now they act more like half-feral mutts and while that might work in limited circumstance, if you are going to continue to play guard dogs to the upper echelon of your customer base, they need better manners.”

Someone else tried to butt into the conversation and I said, “And another thing, your men are obviously battlefield trained. You must have also come highly recommended or you would not have gotten this job. I doubt your success on the battlefield was due to the fact that you allowed your men to question you during an assignment and yet two … perhaps more … have tried to tender their opinion without it being asked. This job is just a different kind of battlefield assignment. They shouldn’t be acting the way they are now.”

Number One, surprising a few of his men, said, “Point made.”

“Just a word of advice if you want to … expand your repertoire and resume. Most well-to-do people need security teams that can blend in. You may not have to take ‘tea with the queen’ but you need to appear as if you could. Your skills are obviously sharp. But as my brother can attest, battlefields come in all shapes, sizes, and geographies.”

One of the youngest appearing members of the team growled, “Just where the hell do you get off telling us our business.”

Refusing to be intimidated I answered, “Number One carries a SOG Seal Knife, you carry a Gerber Mark II. Some of the other knives I’ve seen in your group are LHR Combat Knife, Eickhorn KM 4000, and a Fixation Bowie. All quite deadly.” He was giving me a strange look. “A couple of your team members also carry more unusual knives. I’ve seen a Jagdkommando, a Kalis, and a Karambit. All of those knives are sharp and deadly, especially when wielded by someone that knows what they are doing. But some of those are … let me be a girl and say they are prettier. As such they can be underestimated by the casual observer. But decorative and deadly aren’t mutually exclusive.”

Number Two, as I’ve begun to call him in my head, started to look at me with interest. I told him, “Stop that. I’m proficient and have had some life experiences that give me a unique … let’s call it perspective since I can’t seem to come up with anything better. I also have a husband with his own unique skillsets and life experiences. I’m not looking to take your job or even compete. What I am saying is that if this team wants to compete on a playing field that it is my duty to try and make considerably smaller in the long run, you need to up your game to set yourselves apart from all of their teams out there. One way of accomplishing that would be to … er …”

Number One gave a small smile and nod.

“Thank you. Now if you will excuse me I have an excursion group to attend.”

The young guy from earlier said, “They don’t like you much.”

“No. But it is political rather than personal for the most part.”

“Not the guy with the blue stripe in his hair. He’s been talking. You shouldn’t have called him out on the dye job.”

I snorted. “He knew exactly what he was doing and was looking for a reaction. The fact that no one was giving him one is what was at the root of his ill-bred behavior the other day. The regs state no un-natural hair dyes. And since Mr. Pinkley is not a smurf …” I shrugged.

Number One said, “That’s not political.”

“No. But the fact that his sister is part of a social group onboard the B is. I believe Mr. Pinkley is one of those unfortunate type of young males easily led around by his … er … appetites.”

A whistle sounded and that was my que to start my work day.

Today’s excursion was to the Temples of Abu Simbel on the shores of Lake Nasser. The temples were constructed in the 13th century BC during the reign of Ramses II. Rediscovered only in the early 19th century, these UNESCO World Heritage Sites were moved from their original location in 1968 during the construction of the Aswan Dam. I will admit that I marveled at the imposing statues of Ramses II that adorn the facade of the Great Temple and the bas-relief sculptures found inside depicting the pharaoh’s military victories and connection to the gods. Our excursion was extended with a visit to the Small Temple, dedicated to Queen Nefertari, the first wife of Rameses the Great; the temple’s facade is a rare example in Egyptian art. Inside were sculptures honoring both the pharaoh and his wife.

Once back onboard the remainder of the day and evening was quiet. I was “excused” from socializing. It didn’t hurt my feelings. I was invited to have a drink by Number One but I told him I didn’t feel it was wise to be the only female in a room full of males. He smiled and said he understood. Instead, I’ve been adding to my report and finishing another Agatha Christie mystery. Very atmospheric. Very draining. I hate to keep harping on it but I must admit I’ve never been separated from Vit for so long. I hope, for his sake, that he isn’t as miserable as I am.

 

[Kathy in FL]

Chapter 110: May 3 - Esna, Cruising the Nile River, Luxor (Sunday)

Oh my Lord, what a surprise! It didn’t take three weeks! While the security breach was worse than expected, it wasn’t widespread. I’m not to discuss that bit of information at all. I’m back on the B but it is quite late. I am happy to be back but not all is happiness.

I woke up this morning expecting yet another day of playing invisible security escort. I rose, dressed, ate, and then presented myself for duty. Looking at the schedule I saw that today’s excursion was to the Temple of Esna and an Egyptologist guide was to explain how it was buried under debris for many centuries and is one of the last great Egyptian temples ever built.

The Late Roman Temple of Esna lies on the west bank of the Nile about 34 miles (55 kilometers) south of Luxor. Buried under debris for many centuries, the temple was just a short walk from the ship through the local market (of course). It dates from the Ptolemaic and Roman period (180 BC to AD 251) and is one of the last Egyptian temples ever built. Visitors can see two large inscriptions praising Khnum, the ram-headed god of creation, who fashioned mankind on a potter’s wheel from the clay mud of the Nile, one of the more unique creation myths I’ve ever heard. There was also a hypostyle hall with 24 pillars and a ceiling depicting Egyptian astronomical figures and Roman zodiac signs. On the temple’s western wall, we saw images of Horus, the god of victory, and Khnum, dragging a net full of fish. At the foot of this façade are the last known hieroglyphic inscriptions ever recorded in Egypt. I wished Vit would have been there to share this with. Or to make fun of me play professor. Something. Anything. Even arriving back early … I can’t talk about it yet.

After the temple area we explored the village of Esna, once an important center for trade and later a regional capital under the Greeks and Romans. Today, Esna is a quiet farming town with a lively market scene. We took a short walk from the pier into town. Along the waterfront, there are several examples of 19th-century houses with elaborate mashrabiya, or elaborate wooden lattice screens. We walked past the 14th-century Emari minaret, one of Egypt’s oldest, and viewed the remains of the ancient temple area from afar dedicated to the god Khnum. It was an extreme juxtaposition to view the ancient temple with the modern city surrounding it. And everywhere there were people. Some dressed traditionally and some dressed in very modern style.

During our guided walk – they would have never allowed so many females out and about on their own – we ventured into the covered street market, where several of our group made purchases. One of the main items was fabric; some even had the fabric made into clothing. Another item of interest in the market is old mill that presses lettuce seed into oil.

I was reading some literature on Egyptian markets to see if there was anything in particular I should focus on for Vit. Turns out that lettuce seed oil contains folic acid, which is helpful for digestion, strengthens the nervous system, and is necessary for normal functioning for female hormones and metabolism. It is also rich in the A,C, K, and B vitamin group, beta-carotene, riboflavin, calcium, phosphorous, magnesium, iron and iodine. It isn’t cheap. Or should I say it isn’t cheap when you try to buy it online. An ounce can run anywhere from $20 to $40US. Purchased at the source and with US currency it was less than half that price.

Our guide was very helpful in directing me to a vendor that had a woman there with whom I could converse and barter without having to resort to a man in the party I was traveling with. She told me that the oil has a sedative and soporific effect, is recommended for patients with nervous exhaustion and depression, regulates cholesterol in the blood, and helps to prevent atherosclerosis and hypertension. I’m not sure I believe all of it but the I’m willing to at least try it on my hair which is becoming terribly dried out between this area of the world and being at sea for as long as we have. I also purchased a bottle for Yegor … or should I say for Polina to give to Yegor.

It was after getting everyone back on board and to find the diplomats and their clerical staff quickly packing up that I found out that our remote tour was over with and we were heading back to the B. I was so excited and suddenly being ignored worried me worse than it had. I was afraid they would forget me and I would never get back to Vit. I know. I mean I really know. My issues were singing loud in my mind is all it was. But maybe not as much as I would have like that to be the issue. An hour later as I was getting the last of the luggage secured for transportation I could find a ticket for me. For everyone else, but not for me.

I was calling Polina – trying to call Polina – when Number One came up to me. “You sure you want to work for these people?” In his hand he held an envelope with my name on it.

Trying to not show my relief I answered, “I don’t work for them exactly. I work for the US Government who are operating the Peace Mission.”

He snorted. “And thanks for the good word.” I kept my face blank. “Your brother. He got us our next assignment. Pretty damn slick. You look like the Princess type. I never would have figured you to have such deep connections.”

I made a face. “Let’s just say I have an excess of siblings. And apparently I have one really excess sibling.” I sighed. “Whoever told Dylan about you it wasn’t me. He … keeps tabs on me. I prefer to keep my professional life and my family life separate. They don’t always allow that.”

He gave me a look before handing me the envelope. “Let me give you some advice. Use your contacts however they come about. Especially if they are people that have your back. Being a lone wolf is … lonely. And dangerous. There are people in this world that don’t give a shit. When you have people that do? Cultivate that. To get through this life a team is necessary. Mind another piece of advice?”

“You’re giving it. You might as well give it all.”

He nodded. “When you have this team, when – not if but when – one of them betrays you, let it be when you are holding enough back that it doesn’t destroy you.”

It was a strange piece of advice, not unreasonable from such a man simply strange that he would direct it at me. I nodded and hurried to catch up with the last van – the cargo van full of equipment and luggage. The trip back to the B was not pleasant. I could see that some were surprised that I hadn’t been left behind and they weren’t pleased that I was wearing my body cam. When I asked them why they cared all of a sudden when they hadn’t made an issue of it before the got blank looks on their faces. I assume that meant that they hadn’t realized I had been wearing a body cam.

I overheard a conversation in the ladies’ room not long after we got to the B. Two of the junior staff members were having an argument. “Why didn’t they warn us that those damn cameras would still be on?!”

“Karen you were warned multiple times to always assume you are being watched.”

“Watched is one thing. Recorded is something completely different. That isn’t even legal!”

“Don’t be an idiot. When has legal ever stopped anyone from doing anything?”

“Are you insinuating something?”

“No. I’m stating a fact. A fact you would do well to remember. It didn’t stop you from helping What’s His Name to smuggle liquor to his friend in Oman.”

“Shhhh!”

“Let me give you some advice,” the other woman said, echoing what Number One had said to me. “Always assume you are being watched and recorded. Always. Because if it isn’t Peace Mission personnel, it could be people from the country we are in, or people from the diplomatic corp. And another thing … I would ask for a transfer before something is discovered. It makes you a potential target for blackmail and that is a dangerous place to be on the level we are working.”

“What … what are you saying?”

“Saying? Nothing. I’m merely giving you advice … in a timely manner.”

“You … you …”

“Me? Perhaps. But I am not the only one you put in danger with your stupidity. Rayya has family in Oman. How bad do you think it would be for them if word got around that someone from our office was smuggling contraband and hadn’t been … dealt with?”

The other woman’s breathing indicated fear and when first one and then the other left the restroom I heard another stall door open. “Kaliba,” which is a rude word in Arabic to call a woman.

I was surprised to hear another woman as well, this one with a Midwest accent. “Satisfied?”

“That the young one will betray Rayya at the first opportunity?”

“She knows the risks.”

“I want that one to experience the consequences.”

“That’s a no go. We do not want to turn this into an international incident. If she does not ask for a transfer … a transfer will be arranged.”

“Your word on this?”

“Mine? Yes. There are others … let’s just say they play by the rules.”

“Rules,” the woman said then the sound of her spitting.

“Remember Salha, there are those that play by the rules so that others are not so constrained. Do not discredit them. It is … unwise.”

There was a brief silence.

“Very well. I will give your diplomacy a chance to work. But it must be quick. The longer this takes the higher the likelihood that we will lose Rayya.”

“Understood. Try and keep her calm. If you believe things happen for a reason then …”

“Do not preach to me Cynthia.”

“I’m not. I’m merely using your own words.”

“That would not be wise either. I am not one for games.”

“And you think I am? I am not the one that you should worry about.”

That salvo ended the conversation. I waited and was almost ready to step out when I heard another stall door open so there was yet someone else waiting.

“Do you plan on staying in there forever Veta?”

“Polina?!” I whispered frantically. “You … heard?”

“Yes. And you will forget that you heard.”

When she gave no explanation, and I understood that I was not to receive one, I played the game. I looked around and then gave her a confused look before saying, “Heard? Heard what? The blasted plumbing is acting up again and all I heard was the pipes knocking and singing.”

“Ah. I will make out a work order. Now come to my office and tell me of your time on the Nile.”

“Um … it’s late and I haven’t seen Vit yet.”

I saw a little regret in her eyes when she said, “He is still off-ship. There … was a dinner arranged for … certain personnel.”

“Oh.” Pulling myself together I said, “Did you receive my interim reports?”

“Yes. We’ll discuss them when I am sure we will have privacy.”

We were in the middle of going over the reports when Vit returned to the ship. Polina excused me and as agitated as I had been, I was nearly flying on wings of happiness by the time I got to our cabin.

“Vit! Oh Vit! I’ve missed you! Let’s take a shower! I’ll give you a good massage!”

I threw myself on him and it took me a moment to realize how wooden he was holding himself. “Vit?”

He snapped, “Is this all you think I am good for?!”

When he put me from him it was almost as good as a slap. “What?! Of course not. I … I was just …”

“It has been a … difficult … week Veta. You have not experienced …” He shuts up and I was tempted to tell him just how much fun I had not been having but I clamp my mouth shut just in time. I forcefully remind myself that I am an adult and this is not a competition. It was time for me to use some self-control.

Quietly I said, “I must go finish making reports. I am very sorry that you too had a bad week. It has indeed been very stressful. If you want I will bring you back a tray when I finish my reports so that you can rest in privacy.”

Vit’s anger turns to confusion but his silence lasts so long that I had to indeed leave and go give my report to Polina without his answer.

After I had finished going over everything with Polina she looked at me and said, “You do not know the man’s name … the one you call Number One?”

“Nii. Even his teammates called him that as did the diplomats that hired him. However, if you want to know who he is get in touch with Dylan.”

Angrily she snapped, “You contacted your brother?! You didn’t note it in the report. What else do I need to pull out of you?!”

I had to be very careful with my reply which was difficult because I was angry at having once again misinterpreted my relationship with someone. “It isn’t in the report because I didn’t contact Dylan … or anyone else for the matter, except for you. As you’ve witnessed in the past, Dylan has his own way of keeping up with his baby sister, not all of which I particularly appreciate. In this instance, whoever ‘Number One’ is, Dylan has provided him with his next assignment. It could be due to his and his team competence or some duplicitous reason. I don’t know. Ask Dylan.”

The anger on Polina’s face froze on her face. Then she scrubbed it away. “It … has been a difficult week.”

“Yes. It has.”

“I will ask you not to discuss this with anyone. Including Vit.”

“As you wish,” I said, standing to be dismissed.

“You do not object?”

Trying to think how to phrase what I wanted to say without making things worse I said, “As you said, it has been difficult. I am not privy to the difficulties and they were obviously significant given … Vit’s … Vit’s … demeanor. He appears to be under the assumption that …”

When I struggled to find the best word Polina said, “He thinks your assignment was a pie walk in the park.”

“Er … something like that.”

“He has his reasons.”

“I’m sure. I respect you both too much to think otherwise. Unless you need anything else, I told Vit I would pick him up something to eat. He did not object so …”

“Veta?”

“Yes?”

“It is good you did not give into the man’s flirting.”

I gave a shoulder shrug, still attempting not to let her know just how much she had managed to hurt my feelings. “He wasn’t flirting. He was fishing for information.”

“Ah. I see.” She appeared to want to say something else but I felt it going into personal subjects and I was no longer sure that was wise. So instead, I nodded then left to go get something for Vit to eat. My appetite had disappeared.

Vit and I haven’t said another word to each other. As soon as he came out of the shower he saw the food and I went into the shower. I hadn’t had one since I’d left the B and I rather wallowed in the luxury. When I got out it was to find that he had eaten and gone to bed and to sleep. I decided to tidy up and put away my things, do a load of laundry, and write this journal entry. Rather reminds me of my time on the Nile. Surrounded by people but perpetually alone. I suppose it is time for me to try and sleep. Tomorrow is a Sea Day but I’ve already gotten a notice that Barney wants me in early to make up for lost time.

 

[Kathy in FL]

Chapter 111: May 4 – at sea

Vit slept off and on most of today. I spent the day in Baird’s office. For the most part it was quiet. There was only one moment I could have done without. Barney was slightly on edge and made a similar comment to what Vit had said regarding my assignment.

“Must have been nice floating down the Nile,” she said snidely.

Quietly I told her, “Not really. I … look, I’m not sure what went on while I was gone. Obviously it was unpleasant.”

When I didn’t say anything else she momentarily became even crankier before saying, “You won’t ask?”

“Chief Ivanov informed me that I was not to … well, collect information I guess is what you might want to call it. Basically she told me not to ask questions about things people would just have to lie about. So essentially, I’m not allowed to ask about your week, you aren’t allowed to ask about mine, and neither of us should volunteer information or make comments. So … would you like a cup of tea? I’ll get one as soon as I submit this translation.”

Barney stared at me then shrugged. “No thank you. But I do need the rest of those translations as soon as possible.”

I eventually finished as much as could be finished without making amateur mistakes and signed out and returned to the cabin. I suppose I should have eaten but I wasn’t hungry. And Vit wasn’t there so I assume he is either at another working party or is actually working. The passages have been very quiet. The B is like a ghost ship.

Bah! I am going to bed and to sleep.

 

[Kathy in FL]

Chapter 112: May 5 – Ismalia & the Suez Canal

I was once again working in Baird’s office though I did hear about what the students did when Edda came to the office to discuss her day with her father.

They traveled by bus to the city of Ismailia—home to the headquarters of the Suez Canal Authority – where they visited the Ismailia Museum, which houses more than 4,000 artifacts from Pharaonic and Greco-Roman times. The museum’s collection includes statues, stelae, scarabs and records of the first canal, built between the Bitter Lakes and Bubastis by the Persian ruler Darius. One of the highlights was seeing a 4th-century AD mosaic depicting classic figures from Greek mythology.

Following the museum visit, which I gather the students found fascinating, the bus too them to board a ferry to cross the Suez Canal, and in the process left Africa to visit the Asian continent. On the east bank, they saw the Unknown Soldier Memorial and visited Tabet el-Shagara—headquarters of the Israeli leadership during the 1973 Arab–Israeli conflict. My understanding is this was a rare privilege during these uncertain times. Finally, they re-crossed the Suez Canal by ferry and headed back to the ship. It wasn’t a full-day excursion but it certainly took up the entire school day. And despite it all I am glad that I got to see what I did while I was with the diplomatic extension.

My workday came to a close when Mr. Baird told Edda that he would be joining her and her brothers for dinner if she didn’t mind. Her squeal that reached the upper range of normal hearing affirmed her delight. I was in a better frame of mind than I had been, and feeling more relaxed I returned to the cabin. I wasn’t hungry but I knew I needed to eat so I picked up a small salad to take back to the room with me.

I hadn’t gotten but two steps inside when the door was slammed closed for me. I dropped the salad and went into a defensive stance but all that did was make him even angrier.

“You had to deal with mercenaries?! Why was I not told!”

“You scared me,” I told him trying to calm down.

“Answer my question!”

Unsure how to proceed except to tell him the truth. “For the same reason you have not told me of your duties while I was away. We were told to observe security protocol.”

“Do not use that tone with me. I demand an answer. And what else are you keeping from me?!”

“Vit! You know I don’t keep secrets from you. This … situation … has been nauseating. And stop screaming at me. I don’t have the clearance to tell you anything. You can go talk to Polina about it. Or speak with Dylan though I didn’t report to him, or speak with him, so I don’t know what he knows and what he doesn’t.”

“You ….” And he growled. Vit growled at me. Right before storming out. He hasn’t come back. I don’t know what is going on.

Later …

Vit apologized. He was very stiff and tried to explain himself but I wouldn’t let him. “Vit, you don’t have to break a confidence for me to understand it was an exceedingly difficult and stress-filled week. I’m sure it was worse than what I experienced.”

As if he was still having trouble processing that information … or perhaps thinking like I had been faced with pirates he said, “You dealt with mercenaries.”

I shook my head. “Not in any combative capacity. Some of them were jerks but I imagine that is par for the course. Their team leader … improved a bit with acquaintance I suppose, but he was standoffish all the way through.”

“You wished him to not be standoffish?” he asked.

“Not particularly.”

Still stiffly he said, “I do not understand.”

“Vit it was … did you read my reports?”

“Nii. I … called Dylan.”

“Dylan might not know everything. I did put everything in my reports, you should speak with Polina.”

“Not about this. You must tell me.”

“Vit if … if Polina finds out that I told you what she specifically told me not to …”

“Can you give me nothing Kokhana? I feel as if I have a monster raging inside me.”

I blinked. “A … monster? You’re … you’re saying you’re jealous? How could you Vit? Wasn’t this past week bad enough?”

“Veta?”

My one talent. Not fighting. I forced myself into absolute calm and told him, throwing the consequences to the wind. “I was alone Vit. You weren’t there. I was ignored, treated like I didn’t exist most of the time. I wouldn’t even have gotten back here if not for Number One double checking the manifest. I did not have fun. I did not enjoy myself. I did not socialize or fraternize or anything else you might be imagining. I provided as much security as I was allowed and then survived having the janitor closet I stayed in searched daily by unknown person or persons. I didn’t even have a bathroom until the ship’s personnel took pity on me. But I couldn’t eat with them so I had to do what I could. I used my per diem to get food I could eat in my so-called cabin but it wasn’t pleasant or easy. I did the best I could with what I had. Alone. Despite all of that, nothing bad happened. I was not inappropriate. With anyone. Believe it, or not. It is your choice. If anyone finds out that I told you this much I could lose my job and us be separated. Or is that what you want?”

He stood there with his mouth hanging open so long I told him, “I must get some sleep. I have duty in the morning. My assignment is there.” I pointed to the desk he normally worked at. “Read it. That way you’ll know.”

“I … I am … sorry. It was not my intent to … to …”

“Fine. You didn’t mean it the way it sounded. If I hurt you I didn’t mean to either. This situation …” I shrugged and excused myself and went to the bathroom, when I came out he was gone again. As Reggie has said a lot lately. Life sucks.

 

[Kathy in FL]

Chapter 113: May 6 – Tel Aviv/Jerusalem (Ashdod), Israel

When I woke this morning Vit was asleep beside me. My assignment papers weren’t in the same place I had left them last night so I know he at least looked at them. I was quiet as I got up and showered and dressed for the day but he was still awake and sitting on the side of the bed when I walked out of the bathroom.

Carefully, unsure of my reception, I told him, “Sorry, I didn’t mean to wake you.”

“But you would have said good bye?”

“Yes.”

“Good.” Then looking troubled he added, “I … I must rest. I have a double shift today.”

“Then rest. I’ll make a thermos of tea and leave it for when you wake up. Any preference?”

“Black. Strong.”

“I’ll make you the Keemun Black from …”

“Nii. Just plain. The Lipton Extra Strong is good enough.”

“Do you want me to have breakfast delivered or bring you back something?”

Instead of answering he reached out to me. “Kokhana … it was a very bad week. I feel … betrayed. I will tell …”

“Nii,” I said interrupting him. “You do not need to break a confidence. One of us is bad enough. I believe you. And if you feel betrayed it must be because … no, I’m not going to guess.” I surprised him by kissing his head and gently pushing him to lay back down. “I’m not a child Vit. It is obvious you are stressed out and exhausted. Just remember, I am not other people. I will not betray you … certainly not like … whatever you were thinking. Rest. If you have to work a double at least do it after a reasonable amount of sleep.”

He still seemed troubled but I wasn’t sure how to address things. He surprised me by asking, “You still have … our list?”

It was easy enough to accept his olive branch. “Yes. If I’m able I will see about picking up something today. I’m just not sure how much freedom I will have. I am with the older students but there will also be some non-chaperone adults with us.”

He pulled my hand to his mouth and kissed it, but exhaustion had him mumbling something unintelligible and quickly sliding back to sleep. I wished I could climb in with him; however, I needed to get my day started. I hadn’t eaten last night and I was nearly sick hungry before I could get a small breakfast sandwich fixed in the buffet line. I nearly had to run to be on time had the gangway and from there I herded everyone to our assigned meeting location.

We met our guide at Ashdod Port. Today we were to experience the cosmopolitan side of Israel. Our first activity was a scenic drive down the coast to Tel Aviv, a modern and young city rich in culture, arts and seaside beauty. We drove through what is called the White City, a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its fine examples of the Bauhaus architectural style that was brought here by immigrant Jews from Germany in the 1930s. After a walking tour of the vibrant city center, we continued to ancient Jaffa.

Jaffa is an old port that has been inhabited since 7500 BC and was a central base for the Crusades from 1191, when it was conquered by Richard the Lionheart, until 1268. Its well-protected natural harbor helped it grow into a major settlement. After a panoramic drive, you will have free time to explore its fascinating Old Quarter.

Another activity today was that we explored the ancient caves at historic Beit Guvrin during an excursion to this important archaeological site. We traveled through the Valley of Elah—site of the biblical battle between David and Goliath—en route to Beit Guvrin National Park. I wished I had been in a better frame of mind to enjoy the guided tour of the extensive system of caves and interconnected underground tunnels that are scattered around this UNESCO World Heritage Site. Around 2,000 caves were quarried out of the soft limestone between the 4th and 9th centuries AD. The caves served many purposes; some were churches, cisterns, animal pens and workshops, while others hid rebels. Our primary destination in the system was one of the many Bell Caves—the largest of which measures more than 60 feet from floor to ceiling—and the Sidonian Burial Cave, the only cave that has been beautifully restored and repainted. We saw the Columbarium, its 2,000 niches that were once used to breed pigeons and an ancient olive press before heading to Jerusalem and Bethlehem.

We traveled to Jerusalem by air-conditioned coach, roughly two hours away. The students were completing academic assignments en route so though the drive seemed interminable to me, it served its purpose for the students. As we entered the city, we stopped to admire the views from the Mount of Olives, gazing out at the Dome of the Rock at Temple Mount Esplanade.

We continued on, traveling through Kidron Valley, past the monumental burial tombs at the Garden of Gethsemane – where Jesus is said to have prayed before his crucifixion – to the walls of the Armenian quarter of Jerusalem’s Old City. Once there we stretched our legs on a walk, ambling along the old Byzantine main road, stopping to admire the Western Wall, nicknamed the ‘wailing wall’ after the vast crowds of worshipers who use it as an open-air synagogue. I watched as the students and other adults soaked up the atmosphere but I was having a hard time connecting to what was around me. I did manage to take lots of pictures – when allowed – and make copious voice notes to accompany them to help me remember what we actually did.

From the Western Wall we continued through the Jewish quarter to the Christian quarter for a walk along the Via Dolorosa. The road was once an important pilgrimage route for Christian visitors, believed to mark the way to the site of Jesus’ crucifixion at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. We also saw the Stations of the Cross and Church of Church of Holy Sepulchre. Our walking tour also include the Church of the Nativity, and Manger Square.

At Manger Square we wandered away from the Christian quarter and checked out the Muslim bazaar, a bustling place where Hebron glass and Armenian pottery knickknacks are sold alongside spices and coffee. Security was very tight and while I looked I didn’t really do much more than help the students make transactions while they browsed the stalls and soaked up the colorful atmosphere. Back at Manger Square we saw the Mosque of Oman. Also in the Square was the Milk Grotto where the Virgin Mary was said to have nursed the baby Jesus. Our last stop before returning to the ship was a visit to the Roman Catholic Church of St Catherine as well as the town’s ornate Greek Orthodox Church.

The bus ride back to the ship was quiet as nearly everyone, except for security personnel, dozed. The only thing that stood out to me was that our Israeli guides tensed twice, both times due to motorcycles that came up fast and sudden. Terrorist attacks on buses are still an issue in this region but given the presence of a military escort we were safer than we might otherwise have been.

There was extra security as we went back through the port and all packages went through a much more stringent system before being returned. I now understand why everyone was asked to keep their receipts. Luckily I had not purchased anything.

After my reports, delivered to Polina’s office since she was busy, I returned to the cabin to try and decide what I could do to keep busy. I knew Vit would be working and the idea of facing the crowds for dinner did not thrill me. I was startled by a knock and when I answered it I found a dinner tray. Then my phone rang.

“Hello?”

“You are back aboard?”

“Yes,” I told Vit. “I didn’t want to disturb you at work.”

“Nii. Er … I ordered a dinner tray for you.”

“They just delivered it. Thank you.”

“Kokhana?”

“Yes.”

“Eat. Your face becomes all angles. I could feel the bones in your hand this morning.” I heard someone call his name. “I … must go.”

“Yes. Don’t get in trouble on my account.”

“But you will eat.”

“Yes. I … promise.”

“Just eat. You are pale.”

He had to disconnect but a part of me wanted to ask which it was, that I’m all angles or that I was pale. I’m glad I managed to keep my attitude under control. I wasn’t thrilled with the idea of eating but I knew I should, if for no other reason than to keep my uniform from looking like a sack on me. I also sat down and while I ate took care of family correspondence, one piece of which was to once again turn away the lawyers of Derrick’s former in laws. They grow annoying and I was not in the mood to deal with it. I bcc’d a blind copy to Dylan and have tried to put it from my mind but it is difficult.

I love my nephews but I wish they would contact me just to want to say hello. Reggie uses me as a way to vent and Benji needs a great deal of reassurance on all levels. I do not think either one of them is doing as well as they are trying to portray to the rest of the family. Or the rest of the family needs to give them more support in real time. I’m not sure which it is. Christine gushes on how well they are doing under the circumstances and perhaps they are. I’m just not sure. I don’t want to wake up one morning and realize that if I had only spoken something bad wouldn’t have occurred.

I need to run some things to the laundry. I sweat so much that I dare not leave my uniform for more than a day or it is so sour I cannot stand the smell.

 

[Kathy in FL]

Chapter 114: May 7 – Haifa, Israel (1)

Vit is not well. I woke up last night/early this morning to hear him vomiting in the bathroom. I smelled it as soon as I walked in. Vodka. I had not realized he had started drinking it again. Not that I hadn’t seen him drinking. I mean drinking the vodka as a means to relax when he was agitated or stressed. The problem is not how much he drinks but the old injuries he suffered that have left him with a sensitive stomach. Stress is bad enough but then to put vodka on top of it? He knows better. Or should.

He was definitely agitated. Guy’s hate puking. “Do not say anything Veta.”

Calmly I replied, “I haven’t even opened my mouth.”

“I can hear your thoughts.”

I gave him the same look Momma would sometimes give us when we said something stupid. He had the grace to look contrite. He said forlornly, “Forgive me. I am being a bad husband.”

I sighed. “Stop doing this to yourself. You’re stressed. I’m sure there are things going on that I do not know about since you have a higher security clearance. I am sure there are … other things … involved as well. But the vodka … it isn’t helping.” I stopped there because he was obviously already miserable. He belched and I nearly gagged. The odor was worse than a full drunk. I knew his stomach was sour but that was by far more malodorous than I was prepared for.

I expected some embarrassment and resistance but he allowed me to help him shower. Afterwards, he was surprised and grateful that I had restocked the small pints of milk that I’ve been keeping in our cabin refrigerator. When I went to get him a couple of antacids as well, I realized he must have been all but living on the things while I had been away. I gave him two and added to my personal chores to go down to our storage cage and get another bottle.

“Vit …”

Defensively he said, “Not now Veta. My head aches badly.”

“All I’m going to say, then I’ll shut up, is if this gets worse you need to see the ship’s doctor. It could be an active ulcer.”

“Nii.”

“Yes. And if I can wrangle the brats to make them see someone besides Derrick …”

“Veta …”

“No negotiations on this. I love you and hate to see you in pain. Hang the cost or anything else you might be thinking. Your health comes first.”

The look he gave me almost broke my heart. It was the last thing I would have expected to see there. It wasn’t anger … it was surprise, and a surprising vulnerability. Maybe I’m not doing something right. How could he be surprised about such a thing? It didn’t take him long to fall into an exhausted but restless sleep. His sleep was so restless in fact I didn’t bother getting back in the bed and dozed a bit and woke up just in time to stop the alarm clock from going off. He had a low grade fever but it looked like it was sweating it out. I wish there is someone I could ask to keep an eye on him but there is no one that wouldn’t compromise our positions.

Today we were in Haifa. How I wish I could have been here as something other than a glorified babysitter; the Israeli government provided of today’s real security, I just played Crossing Guard. I’ve always wanted to visit Israel even when my siblings thought me mad. Yes, it can be dangerous, but the history, the atmosphere … the ghosts of the ancient past. It was good … it could have been amazing.

Once I got to the gangway I found out we had a couple of students that were held back by their parents. One was a strict Muslim adherent and the other objected to the non-secular portions of the excursion. I don’t think there were any hard feelings and it wasn’t a last-minute choice. It happens on occasion. And parents are within their rights to pick and choose what they find objectionable to their worldview. So long as the student(s) complete an assignment in the excursion’s place there have been no major problems.

Today we visited some of the most important places in the life of Jesus. First, we met our private guide outside Haifa Port, and then traveled east by air-conditioned minibus to Nazareth, roughly an hour away. The holy city, nestled into the Galilean Hills, is home to one of the most important shrines in Christianity – the Church of the Annunciation – where the Angel Gabriel is said to have appeared to the Virgin Mary. Inside the basilica we looked around and learned of the site’s significance as a Christian pilgrimage destination while admiring the architecture. Another sacred site – St Joseph’s Church – is nearby, so we strolled over to it next. Built on the ground where Joseph of Nazareth's carpentry workshop is said to have stood, the church is fascinating to explore with a network of crypts beneath its main prayer hall.

After walking around the church, we left Nazareth and continued our tour of the Holy Land by minibus. I must say that our guide reminded me a little of an old cartoon character called Miss Frizzle. She had a magic school bus that would turn into different forms of transportation and our guide used similar techniques to get the students’ imaginations working. I rather admired her. As I said, I wished I could have enjoyed it more on a personal level without having to be constantly aware of my other responsibility, which was providing security. Or more correctly acting as a babysitter for those members of our group – not all of whom were students – to keep them in bounds and moving in a timely fashion.

We passed through the tiny village of Cana and stopped for photos at the Church of the Multiplication on the banks of the Sea of Galilee. It was here that one of the New Testament’s most famous parables – the feeding of the 5,000 – reportedly took place.

Then we continued around the foot of Mount Beatitudes to the ancient fishing village of Capernaum, and saw the ruins of Jesus' much-celebrated synagogue. During our walk we took a break for lunch using boxed meals provided by the B and then traveled onward toward the city of Tiberias on the Jordan River. There we stopped at the baptismal site of Yarendit, to walk along its sacred riverbanks and learned about the baptismal rituals that take place at the water’s edge. There were people there getting baptized much the same way as they had over the last two thousand years. I was suddenly so lonely for Poppa and Derrick that it nearly drove me to tears.

One of the women there who’d been eyeing me suspiciously suddenly was all friendly and said, “Yes, it is quite affecting. I was under the impression you were … hmmm … secular.”

“I was raised in the Russian Orthodox church prior to my adoption but …” I gave her a brief synopsis to give myself time to distance myself from my emotions. It was the same memorized synopsis I have had used for years.

“I had no idea!” she said. “My brother is adopted .” And then she shared her story and I must admit that there was a connection there and I felt less … something. Maybe less lonely but more it was less … invisible I guess. Yeah, that was it, less lonely. So stupid. But that is how it felt.

We journeyed to Canaan of old and crossed the coastal mountain range and back towards Nazareth, stopping at the Yigal Alon Museum, where we discovered an archaeological treasure that rocked the worlds of archaeology, history and religion when it was found in 1986 – the Galilee Boat, a 2,000-year-old fishing vessel discovered in the mudflats of Galilee. Exhaustive scientific research places the fishing boat in the time and place of Jesus along the Sea of Galilee. As an added treat we boarded a working replica of the boat and sailed the waters of Galilee on a guided tour to see how fishermen in Jesus' time lived and worked. We learned about this rural area's many kibbutzim – farming communities which teach self-reliance, collective action and civic responsibility.

Back in Nazareth we went to two markets. The first was The Shuk, is the most popular open-air market in the city. There wasHere you can find a massive variety of spices that has made the market famous, plus the freshest fruits and vegetables. There wereare also tasty sunflower and pumpkin seeds on sale, as well as dried fruits. Yes, I managed to pick up a few treats thinking that Vit and I might use them as healthy snacks. I admit I was mostly thinking of Vit’s stomach, but I manage to eat some as well which was probably good as it was turning into a long day. The other market we visited is

Located in Haifa's Hadar neighborhood. The, the Talpiot Market is a large market that also hadwhere you can find fresh fruits, vegetables, as well as dried fruits, nuts and seeds. That kind of food is, which are very popular in Israel. The prices here are very reasonable, so you'll get a chance to see people from all walks of life when you visit this market.

It was finally back to the ship and the students and other adults were very tired. I on the other hand had a report to write up but first I wanted to check on Vit. I texted him to let him know I was back aboard. I didn’t expect a response as he normally does not give one but I was surprised by, “Could you please bring me a milk? I am in the Communications area.”

I killed two birds with one stone. I took him a carton of milk and sat at an empty workstation in the security area and wrote up my report. Since there had been no real issues or incidences today’s report was short and quickly submitted. Before leaving – Vit was still on duty – I stuck my head in and took off the empty carton and with hand gestures asked if he wanted another. He didn’t and told me what time he’d be off-duty and not to wait up. But he seemed … calmer … than he had for the last few days. Maybe whatever happened is finally getting out of his system. I don’t know. All I know is that I’m exhausted. I would wait up for Vit, but I have another excursion tomorrow, once again in Haifa.

 

[Kathy in FL]

Chapter 115: May 8 – Haifa, Israel (2)

Two steps forward, one step back. I don’t think he meant it the way it sounded. At least that’s what I’m telling myself. It was when he found out that I wasn’t acting as security for the students but for a group of adults.

“Why are you being assigned these duties?”

I shrugged. “Everyone takes turns. The school year will be coming to an end in a month. I need to cross train so I’ll have a job when the one with the students is over.”

“There are others with better experience that can escort this group.”

I was surprised to feel how fast I grew angry at his words. Instead I said nothing as I knew some of his attitude was because he was still not feeling well. I haven’t asked him if he drank any more vodka but he didn’t puke last night so I’m going to assume not. He definitely isn’t completely well though and he has dark circles under his eyes. I wish I could stay and keep an eye on him but I have a job to do that keeps us together more often than not.

Vit wasn’t the only one not happy that I was escorting the adult group. Mr. Parnell was snarky and some of the students looked downright mutinous as somehow Parnell gave them the idea that had I chosen the adult assignment over them. I don’t need that kind of pressure; the normal kind is bad enough.

I will say that escorting the adults allowed for a different view of Israel. After disembarking we headed to Bahá’í Gardens at Bahjí in Acre. The “Hanging Gardens of Haifa” is considered a holy site and is recognized by UNESCO. It consists of 18 stunning terraced and geometric-shaped flower gardens that stretch up the north side of Mount Carmel to the golden-domed Shrine of the Báb, the tomb of the founder of the Bahá’í faith. While there we explored its colorful blooming flowers and geometric designs, following the circular pathways around the historic mansion where Bahá’u’lláh, prophet and founder of the Bahá’í faith, resided during his final years. We also saw his shrine while we were there. I’m still not sure that I fully understand Bahai with its “progressive revelation” and belief that humanity is inherently good or divine or something like that. Somehow they believe that all religions are correct and that we all worship the same God even when the individual religions refute that. That’s where the progressive revelation comes in as they claim to know better than others what we mean when we worship. Bah. It nearly started a less than courteous debate during the excursion and I wasn’t the one that stepped in to ask them to save their conversation for another time, but the guide and Israeli guards. I still took note of some of those that seemed the angriest. Their response wasn’t healthy and I’ll include them in my report just in case there are consequences that follow us back on board.

I was actually relieved to be leaving that spot and continuing on to the next which was Israel’s northwestern tip and the rock formations at Rosh Hanikra National Park. It’s the only point in Israel where the sea meets a cliff. We worked off some energy by following some of its pathways to peer into the turquoise waters of chalk grottoes. The exercise took the starch out of most of the hotheads thank goodness.

From there we visited the Kibbutz Rosh Hanikra, established in 1949. It was a unique tour. We climbed on board electric open cars to get around. We learned from our guide how the kibbutz survives on agriculture, tourism, industry and various enterprises. We also got to sample exotic fruits from its grounds. We left the kibbutz and continued higher on Mount Carmel for sweeping views and unparalleled vistas of Haifa and to sample fine Israeli wine at the renowned Amphora winery famous for its expansive cellar.

From modern Israel we explored ancient Israel, this time via an ancient Roman city with strong ties to Christ. We drove to modern-day Caesarea with our guide to Caesarea Maritima National Park, the location of the ruins of one of Israel’s most splendid ancient cities. Over a period of just 12 years, Herod transformed Caesarea into a grand city and major seaport – and dedicated it to Roman Emperor Caesar Augustus, who had returned it to Herod after wresting it away from Cleopatra. Yes, it really put things in perspective.

Built by King Herod just before the time of Christ, Caesarea was a busy maritime port and center of early Christianity. As we strolled its cobblestone streets, out guide pointed out visible remains of early churches and the clear Roman influence in the layout of the city. In 1961, archaeologists discovered the “Pilate Stone” here, the only known written record outside of the Bible mentioning Pontius Pilate, the Roman prefect upon whose orders Christ was crucified. We saw the Roman amphitheater, still used as a performing venue today; what was once the great harbor Herod built; the hippodrome that held 20,000 spectators for chariot races; and what remains of Herod’s palace. Then it was back to the ship.

It was a very normal schedule once I got back aboard. I think it is intentional from what I heard being discussed in the security area. They are trying to reinstill normalcy but I’m not sure if it will work. There are far more factions on the B than I was aware of. Perhaps that is one of the disadvantages of not socializing; I’m deaf to what is going on around me.

Vit and I managed to have a civil dinner. He didn’t eat a lot but he did eat. I asked him if he wanted or needed to do anything after dinner and he seemed surprised.

“You have something to do? You do not wish to spend time together?”

“Nii. I just don’t want to hold you back. I know in your job you have different needs.”

He looked at me strangely for a moment then said, “Would you care to stroll the Promenade?”

“With you? Of course.”

“But not with another.”

It was my turn to look at him strangely. “If you want to invite …”

“Nii. I did not phrase it well. Let us walk then go back to the cabin. I … must work on reports.”

“Okay. I suppose I should study up on the future ports in case I am called to escort another group.”

A little subdued he said, “That is your job.”

“Not really. That is where I serve most often but they can stick me anywhere they want to.”

“You … do not enjoy your assignments?”

“There are a lot of moving parts and … there are days I do and days I don’t. I don’t know, I suspect I’m in a slump or something. And wondering where this is going to take me … us. When the students’ academic year is over with I’m not sure exactly where I’ll stand as far as future assignments go. I know I’m behind with the translating part of my job duties.”

Vit nodded. “You should speak with your supervisor.”

“I tried to talk to Polina and Barney but … they’re both … er … stressed out right now. I suppose I’ll just keep doing what I’m told to do until this tour is over with. At least I … we … er …”

“We will stay together Kokhana. Is that what you worry for?”

I admitted, “When I let myself think too far ahead.”

“I worry for the same purpose. I think perhaps I should not have …”

“Have?”

Quietly he pulled my arm through his and we walked the Promenade. There were few other people on the deck so we kept our voices down. “This tour is more dangerous than I thought it would become. And you are gone every day where I cannot see.”

“You’re gone almost every night where I cannot follow. I know they have you in a swing schedule but … it feels the same. And I know it can’t be changed. Not right now.”

“Then let us go the cabin and spend what time we can together.”

I knew that look and I wasn’t averse. And now Vit is working on his reports and looking like he needs a pint of milk and I should put this journal down and get back to work myself. It isn’t as if I’ve got much else to do. Even family correspondence has become less regular.

 

[Kathy in FL]

Chapter 116: May 9 – Akko

Ugh. Polina and her idea of “training” me to be better at my job – her explanation – is making my life harder in a way that doesn’t seem all that productive.

Vit and I were getting ready for bed last night when I got a call to come to Polina’s office. Vit decided he would escort me and then go grab some more pints of milk for our frig. He knew immediately when I met him that something was wrong.

“Another extension?!” he spat when we got back to the cabin.

“Apparently. One of the Greek diplomats has taken a tumble but is necessary for some political something or other. They think she makes too good of a target in her current state so I’m to be there as a linguistic assistant but in reality I am to be extra security.”

“I do not like that Philos.”

“That what?”

“Who,” He snapped. “He is in Communications. He … speaks of you.”

“I don’t even know who he is Vit but on your say so I will avoid him.”

“Do.” After a moment he added, “Please.”

At least that was the extent of the unpleasantness last night. He even helped me to pack though I’m not sure for what purpose. He kept asking weird questions like, “You are not taking your swimming costume? You are not taking your jewelry? You are not taking civilian clothing?”

This morning he did not feel well again and I asked that if it continued for more than 24 hours that he would see the ship’s doctor, or at the very least call Derrick and ask if there was something besides antacids and milk that would help. I want to check on him but was informed I wouldn’t even be to make personal phone calls. That didn’t make me happy but what was I supposed to do? Make a fuss in front of everyone?

As it was there was little to no privacy to say our goodbyes with and I found myself once again in a difficult situation with my duty assignment. I will admit to being moved by the fact that he passed me a Ziploc bag of various tea bags from our collection. I wanted to say something; I hope the look on my face was enough to get my feelings across. He gave me a nod, so I hope so.

That was the last of the true pleasantries I experienced, or should I say last of the ones from any of the B’s staff. It appears that when the diplomat was informed I had been assigned to her she said it was not necessary and assumed the matter settled to her specifications. When she found out her wishes were summarily ignored … ugh. I took the brunt of it for the morning. When we stopped for a break right before mid-day I finally asked for a moment of her time.

I started to introduce myself when she cursed at me in her native language. I will not repeat it, but it was extremely offensive. I responded to her assumption of my character in Modern Hebrew, Russian, Arabic, Turkish, and Greek. “Please excuse my less than exemplary Greek. I’ve only just started to improving my syntax a couple of days ago.”

I had surprised her. “You speak how many languages?”

“Sufficient to know that people will say many things when they do not think the other person understands them. Perhaps you should remind your staff of this. And the fact that my body cam remains on at all times as a security measure.”

She was good at bluffing but she knew she had been caught and I could see it. “Oh really,” was her poor rebuttal.

“Yes. And do not bother trying to activate the scrambler you carry in your pocket. The body cams are hardened against that sort of thing. As are my other communication devices.”

Outrage was her next defensive measure. “Why have I not been informed of this? Are you a spy?”

Calmly I answered, “I am not a spy. I was assigned specifically for your protection due to your accident. You have chosen to deny the position to me. I have already been in contact with Chief Ivanov. It has been accepted and noted and now I will remain as security for your staff during the excursions. As for notification, you were notified even before you signed on to the Peace Mission to what extent security would go to for the job at hand. There are frequent reminders during meetings what Security will do and what they won’t … and the capabilities to make sure both are adhered to. Now if you will excuse me, I will leave so your staff can attend to you. If you have any further questions you can direct them to Security Chief Ivanov.”

Tonight Polina called me to ask for a blow-by-blow of the meeting. She made some odd noises that I finally determined to be suppressed laughter.

“What?” I asked, at first assuming she was laughing at me.

“Now I know why Yegor was laughing.”

“Er …”

“He said my little protégé was coming along nicely.” Polina chuckled again. “I would return you to the ship if I could, but transportation is not available. Make the best of it and bring me back some Arak if you can manage it.” I shouldn’t even complain to myself about her lack of sympathy, but I will here in this journal. Gah! How would she like having someone say to me some of the things that have been said. Am I just supposed to suck it up and put it down to being part of the job? Perhaps I am, but that doesn’t mean I have to like it.

As for the day itself, it hasn’t been completely horrid and that is about all I can say of it. For every positive, there has been an intentional negative. Today while in Israel we travelled to one of the oldest continuously inhabited cites in the world, Akko. It dates back to the era of the Egyptian Pharaoh Thutmose. The city was first mentioned in the Bible as part of the tribe of Asher’s inheritance, and then reappeared as Ptolemais in the book of Acts. Caesar Augustus brought his army to Akko while pursuing Mark Antony and feasted here with Herod the Great. King Richard the Lionheart made Akko the capital of his Crusader Kingdom after the fall of Jerusalem in the 12th century. Napoleon tried to capture the city from the Ottomans but failed to penetrate the massive sea walls.

Our first stop was the Jezzar Pasha Mosque, an excellent example of Ottoman architecture, named for Ahmed al-Jezzar Pasha, who defeated Napoleon at the 1799 French siege of Acre/Akko. I was surprised to see that a few of even the senior staff didn’t seem to know their history well enough to realize that Napoleon had been in Egypt. It seemed to confuse their idea of the world’s historical timeline.

A walking tour through the walled city took us into the Knight’s Hall, part of the underground city used by the crusaders for dining, resting, and events. Crusaders would stay in the halls prior to making the journey to Jerusalem. The Jewish Resistance Fighters Museum demonstrates the circumstances of the resistance fighters’ imprisonment, how they lived in the prison from day-to-day and the stories of the Akko prison break and how 12 members of the pre-state Jewish underground were tried and sentenced to death. As well as the ancient tunnels. Traces of the Egyptians, Greeks, Romans, Muslims, Crusaders, Ottomans, Bedouins and the British, who have all ruled here, as well as of the 1948 Arab-Israeli War, can be seen. Our guide pointed out so many and I am simply unable to pick a few to list. I particularly enjoyed the Market where we found spices, butcher shops, bakeries, restaurants, souvenir shops, and more.

After my meeting with Madam Diplomat we were presented with lunch at one of the city's best-known, most sought-after restaurants, Uri Buri, named for the Chef that started the place … Chef Uri Yirmias. It was casual but with an understated elegance; the type of place you know is expensive by very virtue of its atmosphere. Someone “accidentally” left my name off of the reservation until a reporter got wind of the shenanigan and word got back to the B by way of his supervisor seeking Polina’s permission to cite my name. The “mistake” was immediately rectified but it was too late to do much but send me off with a takeout container of a sample size of one of the signature seafood dishes that are famous all over Israel. I honestly wasn’t very hungry by that point as I realized how similar to the Nile extension this experience is going to be.

After lunch we continued to Jerusalem, with a stop at the Mount of Olives, an important burial location since the Canaanite era. While there we took an extended walking tour – before I would leave I made sure that several Israeli guards would be remaining with the Diplomats that were in a meeting. Some of the sights we took in while walking were: amazing views of the Temple Mount, the Judean Desert, the Old City, and the city walls; the Garden of Gethsemane; the Jewish Cemetery; Church of All Nations; Dominus Flevit; Mary’s Tomb; Chapel of the Ascension; Church of Pater Noster; and, Church of Mary Magdalene.

My feet were tired and my mind full when I was flabbergasted to find our hotel is the Waldorf Astoria Jerusalem. We will be here four nights before moving on.

What a mess this all is. But if I am to prove – and improve – myself what choice do I have? My personal accommodation is a sofa between two connecting rooms. Essentially a suite, each bedroom holds two twin beds and I am on a pull-out in the sitting area. The only benefit I can see is that I will have a little privacy in the evenings after the others have gone to bed, and that I have direct access to the shared bathroom. Since I am a very early riser by habit, I call dibs on first shower in the mornings. Also, there is no television in the sitting area. There are in the two bedrooms, but the walls are quite soundproof so unless they want to play the tv’s loud enough to disturb other hotel guests I’m fairly certain I won’t have to care enough to find some way to minimize the noise. I’ll also have first chance at the tea kettle. I have a feeling I am going to need it.

 

[Lake Lili]

Thanks Kathy! Appreciated.

Lili

 

[Kathy in FL]

Chapter 117: May 10 – Jerusalem (Sunday)

Sunday in Jerusalem. At one point this might have been a bucket list day for me, but it is hard to stay focused when it feels like everyone around you is so cold. Of course I could just be backsliding into some of my old bad habits because of the stress. I hate to whine but I didn’t sign up for this. I just wanted to be with Vit. A job in security and so-called self-improvement wasn’t on my agenda. Geez I sound like the brat … and not the brotherly kind.

Speaking of brothers, I haven’t heard much from mine lately. Derrick has his own life and is finally leading it. I think that, as much as time and counseling, is what is helping Reggie and Benji find their own balance. Charlie is now the one bogged down with family problems. His wife and kids just can’t seem to make the adjustment to their new financial reality. The only reason I hear from Dylan is because of this blasted job. And I’m not sure if Angie is just busy with her and Tal trying to restart their microbrewery or if she is angry I am not there to help out. Or once again, maybe I am just feeling sorry for myself. I hate to self-analyze but I can’t just ignore these feelings either. I’ve always had a sounding board, someone to help me make it through periods like this. One of my siblings or Vit. Now I am going to have to figure out how to do this on my own because that is what I am … on my own. I hope that in hindsight, one of these days, I’ll be able to look back and show some appreciation for this time in my life. Right now? Not so much.

I was very much feeling alone when I got up this morning, trying to stretch the kinks out. The pull-out sofa hadn’t pulled out last night; something is stuck. I had to sleep on the sofa sans “pull out” and the only cover I had was a throw from the closet. I called down to the front desk but maintenance wouldn’t be able to arrive until morning. They were so sorry of course. Thankfully when I got back tonight it was to find a note at the concierge desk that they were unable to effect a repair of the sofa bed at this time so I was assigned a twin room, here was the key, sorry for the inconvenience. I was tired and a little irritated by my roommates … former roommates … whom I’d been given to understand had planned a party to be held where I was supposed to sleep. Expecting another “broom closet” like I’d had on the Nile, I was more than pleasantly surprised to find I had a room to myself with an en suite bathroom, desk, tea kettle and coffee maker combo, and even toiletries I wouldn’t have to share. When sent my daily report I received a text from Polina of a laughing emoticon. I suppose it was her way of getting a laugh at the expense of the diplomat’s staff but I would have still preferred to be back on the B with Vit. But that’s tonight. The day did not start as nicely.

As an early riser I did indeed do as claimed and was first in the bathroom and first at the tea kettle. I was dressed and out of the room before the four clerks had even started to roll out of their beds. I knew the Diplomat’s chief of staff was also an early riser and sought him out at the coffee bar. Turns out he wasn’t against me being assigned and is a bit miffed that he’d been put in the position he was. He grinned at my atrocious attempt at speaking in Greek and said he preferred English for somethings anyway. Where the conversation would have gone I don’t know as he was called away but at least he gave me a draft copy of our schedule, something I didn’t have at that point.

The man had to crack the whip a bit to get the rest of the staff going in a timely manner. Sunday or not he expected punctuality and was going to get it with or without their cooperation. Ouch.

I was surprised to be assigned as a “chaperone” for younger staff members – most of them university students doing a sort of internship. Today’s activities included primarily active walking tours that would give the press some photo ops while more senior staff would cover any questions.

Before most were ready to complete their breakfast – to which the Chief of Staff replied that had they arisen at a more professional hour they wouldn’t be rushed – a walking tour led by an expert local guide began in the Jewish Quarter of the city and the Cardo, a bustling marketplace built atop a site dating back to the time of Emperor Justinian, 6th century BC. We visited the Western Wall, the last remnant of Solomon's temple, which held the Ark of the Covenant. The wide plaza before the wall is an open-air synagogue where Jews gather daily to pray; it has been among Judaism’s most holy prayer sites for over 2,000 years – people of many religions leave prayer notes in the cracks and crevices of the wall. I was aghast to see that several of our group were already showing signs of fatigue. It is one of the reasons I was so irritated when I heard their plans for the evening.

From the Western Wall we descended into the ingeniously engineered Sephardic Synagogues, built below street level during Ottoman rule in obeyance of a law that no Jewish temple could be higher than the surrounding houses. We visited the restored complex of four synagogues: Yochanan ben Zakai, Istanbuli, Eliahu Ha’navi and Emtsai, each built in a different time period to accommodate the needs of the Sephardic community of the day.

We were given a few moments to pick up a snack at a local café and then visited Yad Vashem, the Holocaust Memorial Museum, where a guide accompanied us through the images, survivors' accounts, and artifacts that put human faces on the Holocaust; it was a deeply moving experience despite how quickly we moved through it.

After another brief stop at a Jewish bakery to refuel the flagging students and younger staff we headed to “Underground Jerusalem.” While the modern city of Jerusalem bustles with life above ground, below ground, the ancient city of Jerusalem is being rediscovered, one pickax at a time. The City of David, located outside the Old City Walls, predates the Old City by hundreds of years. Measuring only 11 acres, Jerusalem’s birthplace is unsurprisingly one of the most extensively excavated sites in the region. It is simply easier for me to quote the guide than it is for me to come up with an original description.

The tour of the City of David begins with an observation point overlooking Biblical Jerusalem which sends visitors 3,800 years back in time to the days of Abraham, when the first foundations of the city were laid. The journey continues to an excavation that might very well be the site of King David’s Palace. Archaeological excavations have revealed foundation stones from the 10th century BC, the period when King David lived and ruled. Bullae, clay seal impressions bearing Hebrew names from the Bible were found, as well as a tower that was part of ancient Jerusalem’s city walls during the days of Nehemiah, who lived during the Second Temple period.

Another area underground we stopped at was the Royal Acropolis, also known as Area G, to see First Temple homes which were leveled in the destruction of Jerusalem, before descending further underground into the water system, originally used by David and his men to conquer Jerusalem. We passed through the Gihon Spring Citadel, which protected Jerusalem’s main water source- the Gihon Spring, before entering the highlight of our tour- a walk through Hezekiah’s Tunnel.

The Gihon Spring’s waters still flow through the tunnel, making for a fun and wet adventure in an unusual location, or should I say “fun” for those of us into the adventure rather than looking for every secular excuse to deny that what we were viewing was indeed what our guide was telling us it was. The next sites on the list was the famous Siloam Pool, and the Herodian Road and Water Channel.

The Herodian Road was the main thoroughfare of Jerusalem during the Second Temple Period. Abutting the road is a water drainage tunnel that collected rainwater and brought it outside of the city. It also served as a refuge for Jews who were trying to exit the Old City and escape the Romans. An incredible amount of important and rare artifacts were found in this tunnel and channel that have contributed to the understanding of events. The tour concluded in the Givati Parking Lot Excavation, just a five minute walk from the Western Wall.

Not far from the major historical sites were several bazaars and shops selling all manner of souvenirs as well as more personal local items. We were broken down into smaller groups, something I wasn’t comfortable with it but I wasn’t running security. That was being handled by a combination of civilian and military Israeli forces. My group had six people – myself plus five of the youngest staff. They were trying so hard to ignore me that I nearly laughed. They reminded me quite a bit of the middle school aged students I’ve worked around. When they started floundering with their language skills I nearly rolled my eyes but stepped in anyway and helped them.

I hesitated but then tried to communicate with them that it wasn’t the language barrier creating the trouble so much as the fact they were unaware of the cultural norms of the area and that they needed to do a little research. Or perhaps ask the Chief of Staff if he could recommend some materials to brush up on it. I explained as an example that dining etiquette in most of Israel is quite Westernized but that if it was following Orthodox traditions, then men and women would not dine in the same area. Another example I gave is that Ultra-Orthodox Jewish men don’t acknowledge women, and very religious Jews of either gender don’t shake hands or mingle socially with members of the opposite sex. And as the diplomats had already experienced, Israelis are known for their bluntness. That openness extends to discussions on religion and politics, too, so if you express your opinion, you should expect bluntness in return. And respect for all religious sites – whether Jewish or Muslim – is not a suggestion, but a requirement.

It was like having students again. Not necessarily a close association – I wasn’t their friend – but nor were they ignoring me which I will admit was a nice change. In addition to helping the young staff members make their purchases I made some of my own. First I had mine and Vit’s names done in Hebrew. I thought of having them put on a necklace but I chose instead a beautiful picture that also had our anniversary on it and surrounding by some drawings that reminded me of the pictures in the ancient Orthodox Bibles that I’ve seen.

I’d already purchased a couple of Israeli wines so to this I added a liquor called Tubi 60. It is a local favorite that has gained some international notoriety. At a small cart I bought several olive wood prayer ropes and a similar number of rosaries. I got a particular look from a Nun and smiled at her and explained – once I found out she spoke English – that I wasn’t just buying them as tchotchkes.

“I mean no disrespect. I am Greek Orthodox by birth and the rosaries are for other family members.”

“You … are with the Peace Mission?”

“Yes Sister.”

She gave me a small smile then handed me a card with Saint John Paul II’s Prayer for World Peace.

Prayer for Peace in the World

Immaculate Heart of Mary, help us to conquer the menace of evil, which so easily takes root in the hearts of the people of today, and whose immeasurable effects already weigh down upon our modern world and seem to block the paths toward the future.

From famine and war, deliver us.
From nuclear war, from incalculable self-destruction, from every kind of war, deliver us.
From sins against human life from its very beginning, deliver us.
From hatred and from the demeaning of the dignity of the children of God, deliver us.
From every kind of injustice in the life of society, both national and international, deliver us.
From readiness to trample on the commandments of God, deliver us.
From attempts to stifle in human hearts the very truth of God, deliver us.
From the loss of awareness of good and evil, deliver us.
From sins against the Holy Spirit, deliver us.

Accept, O Mother of Christ, this cry laden with the sufferings of all individual human beings laden with the sufferings of whole societies. Help us with the power of the Holy Spirit conquer all sin: individual sin and the “sin of the world,” sin in all its manifestations.

Let there be revealed once more in the history of the world the infinite saving power of the redemption: the power of merciful love. May it put a stop to evil. May it transform consciences. May your Immaculate Heart reveal for all the light of hope. Amen. — St. John Paul II

Whatever you may think of religion in general, and Catholicism in particular, it is hard to deny that John Paul II significantly improved the Catholic Church's relations with Judaism, Islam, and the Eastern Orthodox Church. And while he upheld the Church's teachings, he was not against some reforms. He certainly didn’t just sit around on his throne, but travelled to 129 countries and tirelessly worked to make the lives of people – regardless of their religion or lack of – better and more peaceful.

I suppose I was thinking of peace when I was drawn to a beautiful nativity set made of olive wood in a shop near the Jaffa gate. I knew it was not on the list of purchases Vit had encouraged me to buy. I knew we had a nativity packed away back in Pembroke. But this one … called to me. I gave myself one last chance to avoid the purchase by asking if anyone in the party objected to me stopping. When none of them did I took that as a sign and the purchase was quickly made and we were once again on our way.

One of the young soldiers acted as guide and took us to other shops near the Jaffa gate. The Armenians that occupy an area near the gate are said to be the oldest Christian community in Jerusalem. We saw rows of stores selling hand- painted Armenian pottery, which is mostly blue and white with some accent colors. Patterns range from geometric designs to sayings in Hebrew and English. Some were even secular in design. Apparently commerce make all religions equal, at least in the matter of selling souvenirs. The pottery is also widely available at stalls elsewhere in the Old City.

The last thing I bought today was the mango sauce known as Amba that has its roots in the Middle East, typically used on meat and fish dishes. I saw it at lunch and after a taste I decided to get some for Vit. It’s sweet and spicy and brings life dishes such as Shawarma and falafel. In the shop it was explained that the process of preparing Amba takes a total of five days and it involves sun-drying the mangoes. To me it sounds a bit like a cross between relish, ketchup, and salsa. According to the urban legend, amba was developed in the 19th century by members of the Sassoon family of Bombay who were Iraqi Jews originally from Baghdad. Iraqi Jewish immigrants brought it to Israel in the 1950s as an accompaniment to their Shabbat morning meal. I’m not sure what the truth is but there are four variations of Amba; Israeli, Saudi Arabian, Iraqi, and Indian. I’m not too sure I care where it originally came from, all I know is that it was delicious.

It was not long after that I found out “through the grapevine” since my charges never seemed to stop talking, what my roommates had planned. I knew there was nothing I could do about it so had decided not to complain. Perhaps I was rewarded. I must admit that I sit here and am grateful for the unexpected privacy. My head is killing me. I have finished my reports so I think I will take a couple of tablets and make an earlier than normal night of it.

 

[Kathy in FL]

Chapter 118: May 11 – Jerusalem

Apparently the Chief of Staff likes me for the chaperone position and assigned me once again to the Interns. I suppose I could have made a fuss about being sent away from the rest of the diplomats but I’m not sure if it would have borne any fruit.

This morning we returned to the Old City for a visit to the Temple Mount where the revered 7th-century Islamic shrine, the Dome of the Rock, is built atop Temple Mount – the golden dome shelters the rock from which the Prophet Mohammed ascended to Heaven, or so the guide said. For Jews, it covers the holiest spot on Earth, the Foundation Stone of Solomon's inner temple. It doesn’t take a crack academician to understand that the two would be in conflict. In my opinion conflict is one thing, bloody attacks over it insults the faithful on both sides. However, unlike in the Jewish parts of the city, it was best to keep my opinion to myself in this area.

For many Christian pilgrims, a walk on the Via Dolorosa, Latin for “Sorrowful Way” and along which Jesus carried the cross to the site of the crucifixion after Pilate’s condemnation, is a most meaningful experience. I will admit that it was impossible for me to remain detached. We explored the winding path before continuing on to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, which encloses the place where Jesus is said to have been crucified and buried.

I’m not entirely sure that all of the party gave credence to the significance, but one young man did and I saw him looking at me several times.

“Are you all right Santos?” a young man that reminded me a bit of Reggie.

He sighed and in a thick Greek accent anwered, “This. It is not as I expected.”

“In what way?”

“I … I did not expect to … to feel. It … touches me. And I look at the others and wonder why it does not touch them. Is it me that is wrong or them?” he asked, obviously troubled.

“Neither,” I told him before explaining further. “We all walk on a path. Sometimes we walk together and sometimes we walk … what feels like alone. That doesn’t invalidate your experience … or theirs. Just see what it means for you and let them learn their own bits of wisdom. It neither means that you are so far ahead or behind … you’re just on a different part of the path life has put you own. Just walk it the best you know how to.”

“You are … strange. Um … I mean no offense.”

I chuckled. “You aren’t the first person to say such and I’m not offended. Why should we be offended of the truth? Tell you what, how about we ask the others if they are ready to eat. Sometimes thinking is done better on a full stomach.”

He was most agreeable to that, as were the others, and our guide for the day agreed that it was time as well. The guide had a fine sense of humor and he entertained us as we went along.

For instance did you know that Israel is the only place in the world (excluding, curiously, Buenos Aires) where you can buy kosher McDonalds? I took a picture and will send it to Benji once I can communicate freely again. Also, there are light and crunchy, peanut butter-flavored chips called Bamba that are considered a delicious snack, but also a medically beneficial one. A British study found that these addictive treats can prevent nut allergies when eaten by young children. And when I say addictive, I now have several of them secreted in my carry on that I hope make it back to the B. I’m not worried about them being crushed so much as a new guilty pleasure. I’ve already devoured a bag of them just sitting and writing a report. Good grief.

Another fun fact involved something called sabich. While the origins of numerous “Israeli” foods, such as falafel and hummus, are controversial, sabich is a categorically Jewish Israeli delicacy. Brought to the country by Jewish immigrants from Iraq from the 1950s onwards, today it is one of the most popular Israeli street food dishes. Sabich is a pita stuffed with fried eggplant, hard boiled eggs, chopped salad, hummus, tehina, and a drizzle of amba, the spicy mango sauce. This is what I had for lunch and quite frankly I can’t believe I ate the entire thing. My goodness. I cannot keep eating like this or I’ll only be fit for ballast by the time this detour is over with.

Speaking of falafel, it is one of the stars of Middle Eastern cuisine. Typically made of fava beans or chickpeas (sometimes both), it is a deep-fried ball or patty, often served in pita bread. Inside the pita, along with the delicious falafel balls, the bread is typically stuffed with fresh salads (cucumbers, tomatoes, cabbage), tahina/tahini (a sauce made from ground sesame seeds), pickled vegetables, pickles, and often harif (a spicy sauce). Falafel is quick and portable and makes for the perfect midday snack and can be found around most cities commonly as street food. Depending what fat it is fried it in can also be considered vegetarian or even vegan. This is what most of the interns ate.

Our guide had Bourekas which are common snacks to those from the Mediterranean, Eastern Europe, and the Balkans. That said, Israelis take their own unique spin on the flaky pastries. Bourekasare made either of phyllo dough or puff pastry and the dough is sometimes covered with different types of seeds, indicating what may be baked inside the dough. Potato-filled pastries are typically covered with sesame seeds, as are Bulgarian (or other salty) cheese-filled ones. Pizza flavored bourekasim (plural of bourekas), are often easy to spot with their round spiral shape and red sauce. Eggplant, mushroom, or spinach bourekasim are also common choices.

For sweet snack we had Tahini halvah which is one of Israel’s specialty treats. Halvah is typically sold in large slabs or cubes and comes in a variety of flavors. The shop we stopped in had chocolate, espresso, vanilla, pecan, chocolate chip, pistachio, and many more. I was told on great authority that they only had about half the flavors they normally did because of the expense of some flavors because of the imports required to make them. It didn’t stop anyone from buying but it did give me pause as it was the first time I’d heard about anything economic.

It was back to the hotel after that to clean up as there was a banquet (aka media spectacle) being held at the hotel that night and we were all expected to attend. It was midnight before the banquet was over and I am very glad that I wrote and sent my reports earlier. I felt like a frump at the banquet and would not have attended if I could have gotten out of it. Everyone else was dressed in nice evening clothes. I stayed in the background as much as possible but was occasionally called upon to translate. I supposed it was a good thing in that context that I wore my “dress” uniform that concealed my body cam and just like always people seemed to forget … or intentionally ignore … it was there. I hope security and communications had fun watching me get humiliated. I know I certainly did. Luckily for me Ice Princess Dymtrus came out

I wasn’t surprised that the interns were back to ignoring me, except for Santos, due to the influence of the senior staff. Oh well, at least no one asked me to play violin. Better to be ignored than have someone treat you like a stringed puppet.

I need to put this journal down and review the security procedures for tomorrow. We are going through the security barriers to the West Bank. Amazing. But I wish Vit was here.

 

[Kathy in FL]

Chapter 119: May 12 – Bethlehem

Another day playing chaperone. Not bad but I don’t feel as if I am earning my salary. I’m worried that if this keeps up I may lose my position in security and that might effect whether I would be able to remain with Vit. I’ve yet to be allowed to perform the duties that were expected of me on these temporary detours. I wish I knew for sure what people are saying about that fact. At the same time I wish I didn’t care. Bah!

I suppose with my hair washed, personal ablutions complete, report typed and sent I now have time to feel sorry for myself. Not brilliant, and very bad for personal morale. Instead I’ll recount my day and hopefully that will assist me in adjusting my attitude. Following breakfast, my group of five and myself boarded a van and headed away from the hotel. We were going through the security barriers to the West Bank and forfor a visit to Bethlehem. We were going through the security barriers to the West Bank and a visit to Bethlehem. Bethlehem. A place Momma and Poppa would have loved to have gone together but never got the chance. A place I would have loved to have been with Vit. But like so many things it is beginning to look like we will have to learn to do things apart.

I wasn’t precisely alone however. During the walking tour Santos stuck close. It seemed the other four would take the least opportunity to make a joke at his expense. He must have thicker skin than I thought though because they could never get a rise out of him. Eventually they gave up and I quietly commended him on his professional behavior.

“Thank you Mrs. Dymtrus. I don’t think they mean any harm.”

“Perhaps not, but it is incredibly rude and doesn’t make a very good impression … to our hosts … or people back on the B,” I told him making firm eye contact and then rolling my eyes to my body cam.

He sighed and then turned to look at the other interns. “They shouldn’t have to be reminded. If they worked on my father’s staff he would reassign them until they had the lessons they needed.”

“Your father?”

“He is a … what you would call … a CEO of a large export business.” He named it and I was indeed familiar with the name.

“I’ve tried the wines of that name. They are very good.” And they were. Mr. Baird was also fond of them. I remember because there were cases still aboard the O’Meg before the pirates drank what the hurricane didn’t shatter.

I was brought back to the present when Santos explained, “My mother runs the vineyard arm of the family business. She and my brother. Papa and my sister run the export side of the business. As the youngest it was either The Church or Politics. I chose politics … but the Church also calls to me. It is what I am trying to decide before I am an old man and still trying to determine what to be when I grow up.” I chuckled and gave him points for trying to find some humor in the subject.

Our first stop of the day was at the Palestinian town of Ramallah, considered the unofficial capital of the West Bank. We walked around the busy streets and visited the tomb of Palestinian leader Yasser Arafat. From there we continued to Jericho, some say the oldest citycontinuously operating churches in the world. “Perhaps not, but it is incredibly rude and doesn’t make a very good impression … to our hosts of It was interesting to explore some of the archaeological evidence that supports the historical accuracy of the Bible located there. Next was Qasr-el-Yahud on the banks of the Jordan River, where Jesus was baptized by John the Baptist.

We headed to Bethlehem next to enjoy an Arabic-style lunch at a local eatery before exploring this holy city. As we visited the Church of the Nativity, built over what is traditionally thought to be the birthplace of Jesus and one of the oldest continuously operating churches in the world, I helped Santos to once again escape the barbs his peers seemed to enjoy sending his way and got him to talk about his family, a more pleasant topic. I grew to understand that they were very close but there was a brother and sister that had died after joining the rioters last year. They were slightly older than him, still in college, and they’d been radicalized by the anarchy movement. “It is … strange. I will soon be older than they will ever have a chance to be, yet I will always be the baby of the family. It makes for a sometimes difficult dynamic.”

“And you’ve learned to walk a fine line.” He nodded. “Trust me, I understand how difficult that can be. But think on this, those skills will be helpful whether you continue in politics or join The Church. Or frankly whatever you pursue in life. Develop them now while you can, before someone decides what you must know and what you must not without care to how you may feel on the topic.” He nodded thoughtfully and we focused more on our excursion.

Beneath the elaborate church lies the Grotto of the Nativity, with the Chapel of the Manger just steps away. We visited the Milk Grotto, where the Holy Family took refuge before their flight into Egypt, then return to Jerusalem. I had seen it before but it was certainly worth another look, but not being completely enthralled I was able to watch the interaction of those I chaperoned. They were very much college-aged students and I was surprised they had gotten their internship. Or should I say I was surprised they had kept their internship. Their youth made them photogenic, it didn’t mean they were good at what they were supposed to be doing.

On our return to Jerusalem we viewed the Dead Sea Scrolls at the Israel Museum, where they are exhibited. That was very interesting, even to the interns.

The evening was free, even for the lowly interns and their chaperone. I did remind everyone that they needed to pack because there wouldn’t be time to in the morning as we were heading out even earlier than we had the past couple of mornings. And if they wanted breakfast I suggested they order it ahead of time so that it would be waiting when they got downstairs with their luggage. We’ll see how that goes. I swear I felt positively ancient when I caught a couple of them giving me the eyeroll in response. Ugh. And that is what I need to complete now that I’ve adjusted my attitude to something healthier.

My hair still has a bit of drying to do so while it does that I’ll figure out how to pack what I purchased so that it doesn’t get broken or crushed as my duffle bags gets tossed around.

 

[Kathy in FL]

Chapter 120: May 13 – Masada and on to Jordan

As predicted, the early morning departure seemed to catch some of our party flat-footed despite all the warnings that had been given. The Chief of Staff was not pleased. He even seemed rather irritated at the diplomats themselves who, intentionally or not, were mucking up the schedule. We finally left and were almost an hour late which had to be made up by taking uncomfortable roads going even more uncomfortable speeds. Several people wound up being nearly carsick and were not at their best for the remainder of the day.

Our destination was the cliff-top fortress at Masada, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was built by King Herod between 37 and 31 BC and was the stronghold of the Jewish Zealots who fled Jerusalem rather than submit to Roman rule during the First Jewish-Roman War in the 1st century AD. I must admit that even I had a surfeit of history by the time we were deposited at our hotel for the night. But that wasn’t until much later in the day. To start with I found out that we first hear of Masada in the writings of Josephus. Yes, that Josephus, the man that recorded so much ancient history in his day that was once thought more fable than fact. Archaeology has revealed that most of what he has written actually is based in fact though there are still some writings that make people consider him unreliable such as his writing on the tsunami that destroyed the hypothetical Atlantis.

We took a cable car to the top of the mountain in the Judean Desert which overlooked the Dead Sea. In antiquity, the only access to the top was a snake-like path on the Dead Sea side of the structure, making it an almost perfect, defensible fortification. Had we been in the American West I would have said we were at the top of a mesa. It wasn’t called that, but it was a flat-topped mountain of some geologic type. The cliffs are made of chalk, dolomite and marl strata about 1,300 feet (400 meters) above the Dead Sea. The environment was certainly inhospitable, and I am told the further into summer the year goes the worse it gets.

Masada means strong foundation or support in Hebrew. The name certainly fits. The last occupation at Masada was as a Byzantine monastery, and then the site was largely forgotten due to its remoteness and harsh environment. The harshness came from high temperatures and lack of water sources. It was a good that that the seasonal rains helped to fill huge cisterns that were used for both storing water and grain and other foodstuffs.

According to Josephus, the first fort at Masada was built by “Jonathan the High Priest,” thought to be Hasmonean King Alexander Janaeus (who ruled from 103 to 76 B.C.), although no ruins have been discovered from that time. Recognizing the defensive advantages of Masada, Herod (yes, the Biblical Herod the Great) built a complex there as a winter escape and haven from enemies, complete with castle, storerooms, the aforementioned cisterns, and a militarized wall. After Herod’s death and the annexation of Judea, the Romans built a garrison at Masada. When the Great Revolt of the Jews against the Romans broke out in 66 A.D., a group of Jewish people known as the Sicarii, led by Menahem, took over the Masada complex.

Rome sacked Jerusalem leaving it in ruins and then turned their attention to taking down Masada, the last community in Judea with 960 rebels, including many women and children. After several months of siege without success, the Romans finally had had enough and realizing the Jews would not surrender, built a tower to reach the top of the complex. On April 15, 73 A.D., on the instructions of the Jewish rebel Ben Yair, all of the rebels but two women and five children, who hid themselves in the cisterns and later told their stories, took their own lives rather than live as Roman slaves. History reports that the Romans were shocked by these extreme measures because being a slave during the Roman era was not considered a bad life and there were ways to gain your freedom and become a Roman citizen. Masada was abandoned after that for a couple of centuries. Then the Byzantine era monastery occupied the location until Islam spread in the region.

We departed from Masada and took a route through the Biblical wilderness towards the Dead Sea. On the way we saw the Inn of the Good Samaritan and made a short stop to look out across the desert as we passed the point marking "sea level". We passed the desert oasis of Ein Gedi where there was lush foliage and waterfalls and where David hid from angry King Saul. We also passed by Qumran were the 2,000-year-old Dead Sea Scrolls were discovered. With Jericho visible in the distances we reached the shores of the Dead Sea. It appeared even more encrusted with white salt than it had last time I was there with the Science Club.

It was here that we took a short break to eat a late lunch, shop, and for those so inclined to swim in the Dead Sea. Having done it once I was not interested in doing so again. The salty water encrusts the swimmer as it does the land and I knew it would be a while before I could adequately wash up. Been there, done that and had no desire to be that uncomfortable in company I already found uncomfortable.

Today I had no real company as the interns were kept hopping. It was the same feeling I had in school. Alone in a crowd. I miss Vit. Even at odds we would be together. He would see me and I him and … I’m thinking nonsense again I suppose. In any event I wasn’t very hungry and only ate a small and lite falafal salad. I did remember to drink copious amounts of water which made my experience better than some others who became dehydrated, but I suppose that was all relative.

Even had I felt like shopping to pass the time, it wasn’t a good idea to do it alone which is what I would have been. I would have done some internet research but senior staff – of whom I was apparently numbered despite other staff members’ opinion – were instructed not to use our phones or surf the web as an example to the younger staff members. My time wasn’t totally wasted as Santos and one of the young, female interns approached me and asked if I would walk with them to the changing station. Mira was not comfortable going by herself, the other female interns were still in the water, and Santos was the only one who was also interested in getting out of the sun.

“All they are doing is playing in the mud,” she muttered.

I smiled and explained, “It is supposedly a rather wonderful spa treatment.”

“I don’t think so,” she said. “My mother runs a cosmetic company and the mud needs to be refined and have the impurities screened out first. Otherwise you actually using a product that is way too rough on your skin.”

“Feet and elbows,” I said.

“Maybe but not the stuff so close to shore. Who knows what people have done to it or in it.” Her comment made me grimace.

Santos looked at us like we were speaking an alien language, but I was happy enough to play chaperone so that cultural norms were not offended. After they had cleaned up and changed, I made sure they used aloe and then got something to drink and told them they might want to use their per diem to purchase some extra drinks for tomorrow or the next day.”

They did and then we finished our time discussing some of the history we had heard today. I wasn’t playing teacher. They are both proving to be brilliant students, and a little more wordly than any that I’d had in the past. But worldly in a knowledgeable way rather than experiential. Some of the points they made while discussing world history would have put many graduate students to shame. Their families were obviously raising them to have an understanding of the bigger pictures in life and how their wove together cultures, etc.

Not long after I purchased a few drinks of my own we returned to the busses and drove to Jordan and then stopped at our accommodations for the evening. I will say being part of the diplomatic party made me realize they were from a socio-economic strata that was used to luxury. We are to spend to nights at the Movenpick resort and spa.

The Mövenpick is situated in a traditional village setting with what is for the area lush gardens. The resort is set on the northern shores of the Dead Sea. I am once again in a twin room and alone but that is because the equipment for the meetings are being stored in the room. It is on the ground floor facing one of the pools. I admit I am a little concerned about the security but was assured that they’ve never had any kind of problem at the resort. And I got from the look on the concierge’s face that there better not be any … ever … as in ever ever … or he have more than a thing or three to say about it. The Chief of Staff gave a more than professional smile to the man, like a look of respect for an equal, and they bowed to each other.

While some of the staff chose to partake in what the resort had to offer for dining and entertainment, I ordered a fruit & cheese plate from room service and helped to organized the equipment into groupings that made sense. I wasn’t alone but I didn’t really know the two that were there helping so I just tried to be as helpful as possible. By the end they weren’t quite as stiff as they had been and it was obvious they were re-evaluating something. Me or something they’d heard about me possibly. Either way I was glad for them to leave as I had a daily report to write. It has finally submitted and I am going to take a shower and perhaps work on my personal inventory a bit. There is such a temptation to try and contact someone and socialize online but all I’ve done is give a quick look at my personal emails. Nothing that needs an immediate response. Perhaps I’ll just have a long soak. Get the kinks out. Try and relax. Tomorrow I escort a larger group and am less chaperone and more interpreter on-call. The interns will not be in the group, these are the SOs of some of the senior staff. Please let at least one or two of them be personable.

 

[Kathy in FL]

Chapter 121: May 14 – Jerash

Good thing that I don’t need a large breakfast to get me going as I was down to grabbing a croissant so that I could finish in time to join the excursion this morning. The interns and staff members stayed behind at the Movenpick while I helped to keep their SOs out from underfoot, or so said the Chief of Staff when he was telling his wife to keep the group under control. He’d already gotten a call from Chief Ivanov.

“She is spying on us,” the woman hissed.

“If you are referring to Mrs. Dymtrus you are mistaken. She was not present at the incidences mentioned. There is someone else, perhaps our international guards, that are reporting the behaviors. To the contrary, she has warned several times that her body cam remains operational. And I have heard good things about her from sources that would not say so if the rumors were true.”

“Bah! What do they know?!”

“It would appear more than your sources do. Now enough of this. It wastes my time and runs counter to your promises. If this nonsense continues I will know.”

“You are showing her undue favor,” his wife spat.

“Do not be ridiculous. I am catching many fallacies in these truths you claim to have heard.”

They walked away and I felt embarrassed to have been caught eavesdropping. Not by the Chief of Staff but by security. I was the one that forgot the blasted body cam this time. I felt like a pretzel while trying to respond to Polina’s questions later in the day. I didn’t lie but I refused to put things in a bad light.

We started the day by getting on a minibus and heading to the ancient city of Gerasa, today called Jerash. Our guide was a doctoral student with a talent for bringing history to life. With his words we stepped back in time 2,000 years to explore the exceptionally well-preserved remains of Roman architecture in the Middle East, including Hadrian’s Arch, the Hippodrome, the Oval Plaza, temples, theatres, arches, walls, baths and more in the fascinating archaeological site.

The drive was approximately one-hour north and luckily our vehicle was air-conditioned vehicle as we traveled in nothing but a desert landscape. On arrival in Jerash we headed through the ancient city gate. Here, our guide had us drink in the spectacular ruins spread out before us. It showed the grandeur of Imperial Rome and is one of the largest and most well-preserved sites of Roman architecture in the world outside Italy.

The area was settled in the Neolithic era but city itself was founded by Alexander the Great in the 2nd century AD and known as Gerasa. The city was one of the wealthiest in the Roman Empire at one point. We strolled around as our guide told us fascinating stories about the city in its heyday. We saw its arches, theaters and magnificent colonnaded street. We took photos of the Oval Plaza, an intriguing oval-shaped forum, as we were encouraged to conjure up images of the people who once lived here. Hadrian’s Arch was spectacular, despite being a ruin. Hadrian was called the “flying emperor” because he spent most of his time traveling to cities around the empire. This arch was built about AD 130. The central gate was apparently only used for important visitors. We also saw the Cathedral, the North & South Theater, and the Nymphaeum.

The heat was pretty exhausting for some of our party, but I was happy to see that water was provided. As soon as we left Gerasa we headed straight to a place to have some lunch and further rehydrate and then it was an hour back to our hotel. I knew that most of those I rode with would be heading to the pools or spa after our return. Being staff I wasn’t really sure what I should do so on arrival and making sure that our guide and bus driver were duly compensated, and I had an address that I could forward a letter of recommendation, I headed back inside to look for the Chief of Staff.

You don’t just barge up to a man of his position so I stood to the side until he was free.

“Yes?”

“Sir, do you have anything else you need me to do?”

“Excuse me?”

“The excursion is over. I made sure that the check got into the correct hands and I have our guide’s address if anyone else would like to send along a note. Everyone’s personal gear has been accounted for. Everyone has signed back in at the concierge desk per regulations. So, is there anything I can do for you?”

At that very moment a portable translator started making a noise that suggested it was a hen laying an egg. The Chief of Staff gritted his teeth and said, “You wouldn’t happen to know how to fix that damn thing would you?”

I smiled. “Let me see what I can do.”

I spent the next hour recalibrating several translators. Someone had tried to install an upgrade but for the wrong model. It was tedious but work that I had become quite familiar with as Barney had accidentally done the same thing several times. In the meantime I performed as a human translator to the relief of several staff members and even did some work for the other diplomats meeting with those from the B. It really wasn’t that much different than what I had done for Derrick at the Foundation functions that I attended when he needed me.

I had just noticed the changing light and realized I was hungry when the Chief of Staff’s wife stopped at the table I was working at.

“Someone needs to teach you some self-preservation.” I must have blinked at her like an owl because she gave a worldly chuckle. “Do not volunteer.” With another considering look she said, “The meetings are over and they’ll just be socializing the rest of the evening. You’re free to go as soon as the Interns come to pack away the equipment. You might want to request room service rather than wait for table in the restaurant. There are several reporters hanging around looking for a story.”

“Yes, please. And thank you Madam.”

“You’re welcome.” She gave me a considering look and then said, “There’s been a slight change in plans. Rather than go straight to Amman we will move to the Movenpick at Petra. I understand you have been?”

“To Petra? Yes Madam. If I am needed for more translations then …”

“Perhaps in the evenings. That will be up to my husband. Tomorrow we will spend most of the day on the road except for those for who their religion’s day of worship is Friday. Saturday however, I have requested that you act as interpreter in case we cannot find a guide for Petra. On Sunday you will play chaperone to the Interns while we are in Amman.”

“Whatever is needed.”

She nodded regally and then continued towards her husband down the corridor who nodded in my direction. I bowed slightly in his and then turned when the Interns bounded up like excited puppies. It seems that once they got the equipment put away for shipping, they were free for the night. Oh my they made me feel old and creaky. I am not even a decade older than they but I do not ever remember being quite that energetic.

I returned to my room to find two bottles of liquor had been sent up by a foreign diplomat as a thank you for assisting with a particularly tricky bit of negotiation with a Belarusian delegate. Eh, what could I say? I would rather deal with intentional slavic coldness than fake friendliness. Once I was able to convey that there was mutual respect and only unintentional misunderstanding of certain terms it worked out and in fact the two men were well on their way to being drinking buddies. Hopefully no one will leave them at the table too long or their heads tomorrow will be swollen and painful.

Looking closer I saw they were the Arak that Polina asked for and I decided to give one bottle to Vit and re-gift the other to Polina and Yegor. That settled I had no sooner sat down to start typing my report than the woman herself asked me to switch to the encrypted chat room that Dylan had designed for us to use. She wanted my take on the conversation I had overheard that morning. Yada yada and all that and she agreed that it was not the big deal I could have made it out to be but that she would be interested in any further conversations I might hear on the subject. She did not believe that it was a coincidence with the fact that a few other women on the B were being slandered and had complained about it.

“I’m not complaining.”

“Nyet. But it may come to that. I will look into it on my end.”

“Po … I mean Chief Ivanov, it just looks like gossip and being misunderstood.”

“Maybe so. But maybe not. Either way it is not an activity that personnel need to participate in, or be hindered by. What are your assignments from here on out?”

I let her know what the Chief of Staff’s wife had said but that I would report whether the assignment materialized or not. We signed off after that and I decided to simply enjoy another long soak, wash my hair and other personal ablutions, and then pack for tomorrow’s move. And now my hair is dry, my nails buffed, and it is time to rest. I hope Vit’s cold finally went all the way away. I am irritated that I forgot to ask Polina about him. How thoughtless.

 

[Kathy in FL]

Chapter 122: May 15 – King’s Highway, Jordan

We left Movenpick – Dead Sea today and moved to the Movenpick Resort at Petra. Everything was timely so it put the Chief of Staff in a good mood.

Today we took the King’s Highway, also known as Via Nova Traiana, the oldest continuously used trading route in the world that connects Syria and the land now known as Jordan. At over 5,000 years old, it is even mentioned in the Bible.

Rather than an excursion being the day’s experience, it was the scenic highway. We did make several stops and one of the first was at Mount Nebo. Mount Nebo is just a short detour from the King’s Highways near Madaba. The mountains leading up to Mount Nebo are equally impressive, offering hairpin turns and stunning views. Once at Mount Nebo, I was extremely impressed by the level of professionalism on how the site is run. There is more than adequate parking, even for buses like ours. There were also several restaurants, a state of the art entrance, plenty of restrooms that were clean, and signs in several languages spelling out the highlights. There was also a statue of a staff, representing the staff of Moses, symbolizing that Mt. Nebo is where Moses looked out upon the “Promised Land.”

On a clear day, Jericho, the Dead Sea, the River Jordan and even Jerusalem can be seen from Mt. Nebo. Looking in the correct direction you can see a glitter in the distance. That would be the Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem. To the right of that you can see a few skyscrapers of Amman and all the lands between them. Amazing. We also visited the Memorial Church of Moses to see the well-preserved ancient mosaics that are located inside the excavated Old Baptistery.

Biblical history is everywhere en route, most notably in Madaba which was another stop we made. While there we visited St. George’s Greek Orthodox Church to view an incredible 6th-century map detailing the major biblical sites of the time. Madaba is also where we at a lunch of traditional Jordanian specialties. I’m glad the Interns asked me to share their family style meal. There was falafel, tabbouleh, hummus, a very fresh salad, moutabel (an eggplant dip), stuffed grape leaves, mujadara, shawarma, shish kabobs, and zarb (chicken cooked with root vegetables in the ground). It was late when we arrived in Petra and all of the single tables at the restaurants had already been reserved.

In addition to Mt. Nebo and Madaba we made several photo stops. The drive to reach Mujib Dam was spectacular. Then there was Kerak Castle. The site has been inhabited since prehistory, but its main claim to fame is being one of the three largest Crusader Castles in the region. Once held by the Romans, and the seat of the Church of Nazareth, where the first followers of Jesus Christ gathered, the city fell to the Crusaders in 1132. Knick named Stone of the Desert, the castle now standing was built around that time. However, the Crusaders kept it for only 46 years. The Muslim ruler Saladin led a year of attacks, and the castle fell to them in 1188.

We saw another castle, this one called Shobak Castle. It is situated on a round hill and can be easily spotted from a distance. It is also sometimes called Montreal Castle. Not as big and important as Kerak Castle, it was nevertheless an important Crusader castle, one which proved even more difficult to take. Saladin battled and sieged Shobak for two years before it was captured in 1189. There are two paths to explore; one follows the lower levels where you can look up and see impressive arches and structures. The other path allows you to climb atop these structures and have sweeping 360 degrees uninterrupted views of the mountains and land surrounding Shobak.

I believe we were all growing tired at this point so it was lucky that thirty minutes later we arrived in Wadi Musa and at the resort we will stay in the next two nights, Movenpick – Petra. I was surprised to find that I had a room to myself again. Or should I say alone with the equipment. I’m sure that someone might find that insulting but in all honesty I found it rather restful not to have to make conversation after a long day of be polite to people that seemed to act as if I was made of glass … not so much breakable as invisible. I’m beginning to think that either I am viewed as a servant or I was being played by the Chief of Staff’s wife. We’ll see and I’ll have my guard up either way. Either way my report to Polina was unremarkable and she raised no questions. She also didn’t give me time to slip in a question about Vit. I wonder if he thinks about me as often as I do him. Only a few more days to go and we’ll be reunited.

 

[Kathy in FL]

Chapter 123: May 16 – Petra

While I was wrong about having to miss Petra, I wasn’t wrong to be suspicious about the motivations of the SOs. The guide became aware of their tricks early on but being male was not touching the situation with a ten-foot pole and I don’t blame him. They tried to lose me several times – the SOs not the guides – and while annoying it also gave me time to practice some phone photography. They really weren’t as duplicitous as they imagined themselves. I hope their significant others in the diplomatic corp do not share secrets with them.

The day wasn’t terrible. I’m either getting immune to those kinds of shenanigans or I didn’t let my imagination run away with me as I have in the past. Either way I didn’t take it so personally as I might once have, and I think that is a good thing. Perhaps if I project less, they’ll leave me alone more. Being hypersensitive is showing you have a chink in your armor. Not necessarily a good thing.

What was really pleasant was not having to get into any kind of vehicle. The Movenpick at Petra was right there at the gateway and visitor center into the archaeological site. We walked in our groups and I wasn’t surprised to find that there had indeed been a previously arranged guide and I was relegated to invisibility. I’d suspected something at breakfast when I kept getting sidelong glances from the SOs. Polina had suggested that I continue to do my job without reminding them of potential consequences. So that’s what I did. I’m sure some are going to consider it petty but in all honestly, while they don’t bother me exactly, I am tired of being “put in my place” for some unknown to me crime. I knew they thought, after the guide warned that there was not cell signal in the canyons, that they were home free to do as they pleased. But what they don’t know is that the camera records and then transmits when it has a signal, in other words saving up recordings and then transferring in batches once it has a secure line. I will let Polina handle that end of it. She’ll either say something or she won’t.

The 2,000-year-old city of Petra, which the ancient Nabataeans carved out of colorful sandstone cliffs, was named one of the "New Seven Wonders of the World" in 2007 by UNESCO, but it has been on what to see before you die lists for a lot longer than that. Almost forgotten for over a thousand years, Petra is one of the best-preserved biblical sites in the world.

The Nabateans living and trading in Petra accumulated a significant amount of wealth, and an envious Greek Empire attacked the city in 312 BC marking the first reference to Petra in recorded history. The Romans then successfully attacked Petra in 106 AD and controlled it for 250 years or so until an earthquake came along and destroyed many of its buildings. After that came the Byzantines and after them Petra fell into obscurity.

I’d seen it all before with Frankie but this time I was seeing it with the eyes of the seasoned traveler. A little more worldly, a little more certain of what I was seeing, and little more aware of the historical context. It didn’t change the fact that Petra really is one of those Wonders. To the contrary it gave me a deeper appreciation of what I was seeing. First the walk through the narrow, high-walled canyon called the Siq to the Treasury. From there we explored facades, royal tombs, temples and other structures on foot. Unlike my previous experience, we weren’t dependent on the “magic backpack” and instead had lunch at the Basin Restaurant in the Old City.

Part of our group chose to return by camel and I was finally allowed to do my job of escorting the remainder of the group back. They seemed to enjoy it whether they wanted to or not. When we got back to the hotel it was to find out that a feast had been arranged … but my name wasn’t on the invitation list. Once again the Chief of Staff seemed to be on the verge of embarrassed anger but I assured him I was capable of finding work for myself the remainder of the evening.

“I assure you Madam Dymtrus that I will get to the bottom of this.”

All I did was nod my head and thank him. And I did have things to do. First came reports. And next came the review of tomorrow’s day in Amman. I sincerely hope that these shenanigans are at an end. I opted for Room Service and a fresh Arabian Salad instead of trying to dine out alone. I also took the time to wash my hair and take care of all of my other personal upkeep since I don’t know what the sleeping arrangement will be tomorrow.

I believe I may have gotten too much sun today. I am developing a raging headache and I believe I will make an early night of it.

 

[Kathy in FL]

Chapter 124: May 17 – Amman, Jordan (Sunday)

Another Sunday alone. Worse than alone. I believe I know who is at the root of the mysterious arrangement issues on this extension. If it isn’t she, then it is her husband the Chief of Staff but I don’t believe that to be the case. The man’s fury and embarrassment was too real to be fake.

I would say that I was at least able to place a personal call but that was an even greater disaster. Today would have normally been Vit and my day off together. I tried to reach him twice during my breaks to just hear his voice. The second time a woman answered his phone and said she’ll relay a message that I called, but Vit never tried to call or text me in return. I’m trying not to let my imagination take flight. Vit is so far different from Robert that comparing the two is ridiculous. I keep telling myself that. But a woman answered his phone. His personal phone. I need to stop thinking about it. There are plenty of reasonable explanations for it, I just need to wait and hear his.

Today we drove along the winding 5,000-year-old King's Highway, through golden canyons and ancient villages, to Amman. The King’s Highway is one of the oldest continuously used roads in the world. And modern, buzzy Amman does a better job than Damascus or Jerusalem of hiding its ancient origins, but Philadelphia (to give the city its original Roman name) does have some notable antiquities. Foremost among them is the Amman Citadel, built on the summit of Jabal al-Qalaa, the highest of Amman’s seven hills. Seven hills. Sound familiar? Rome has seven hills as well.

The Amman Citadel has had an extraordinarily long life as a fortress, with evidence of Bronze Age usage, while the remnants of a Roman site, including the Temple of Hercules, are still very much in evidence. This Citadel has also been a royal residence, as indicated by the ruins of the 8th century Ummayad palace, with its largely intact domed audience hall built on the site of a Byzantine basilica.

The Citadel was our first stop. Our guide explained that the site has gone through numerous excavations and the Citadel’s Visitors Center was very informative though I admit a bit confusing for some of the group since none of the directions were in English. My verbal proficiency in Arabic has increased, but the written form of the language hasn’t quite caught up. However, I didn’t do half bad as I had downloaded a good translation guide on my tablet. You can guess who gave me access to it for free. Brats are good for something apparently.

The Citadel allows for stunning views of downtown Amman, the Jordan flag, and the Roman Amphitheater which dates back to the 2nd century AD. I remained as unobtrusive as I could to avoid those potentially difficult culture clashes but by waiting I was able to take some very nice photos that I will upload to my vlog at some point.

Included in our tour was a visit to the Jordan Archaeological Museum located up the hill from the entrance of the Citadel. Once through the exhibits there, our driver was waiting at the entrance to take us to busy downtown Amman and the 6,000 year old Roman Theater. I must say it was more interesting than I expected and compared favorably with several other Roman sites I have been lucky enough to visit. Carved into a hillside, the stunning 2nd-century structure is the most notable remnant of Philadelphia, the ancient city that once stood on the site of Amman.

Everyone professed to be hungry before I was finished looking things over so all I could do was follow along as we were taken uptown to Rainbow Street to the Jerusalem Falafel café. I didn’t need our guide to explain that it was a popular stop by almost everyone visiting and living in the city because the crowds alone spoke volumes on the subject. I helped those that needed it to order a sandwich and beverage and also made sure that our guide and driver got something. I did what I could not to draw too much attention in the process but did get some pointed stares that were uncomfortable until I aligned myself with several older women that were there. We all had to stand as we ate but my falafel sandwich was worth that small discomfort.

Our next stop was Shawrema Reem, famous and always busy, with the resulting queue, where we sampled a famous Jordanian dessert, Knefeh. It is very similar to baklava and that’s what I would have thought it was if I hadn’t been informed otherwise.

That was the end of the day’s tour. In the scheme of things I didn’t think we covered very much but I will admit to being quite fatigued due to the crowds. We headed to tonight’s hotel, the Amman Rotana, which is located in the central business district. The Amman Rotana was the first tower hotel in Jordan, and while showing its age in some ways, it still offers 412 lavish rooms and suites, housed across 50 floors at 188 metres high … according to the brochure. All rooms boast floor-to-ceiling windows offering remarkable views of the city and made the fact that I was once again relegated to being housed with the files and equipment less onerous. Who am I kidding? There is nothing onerous about staying in a 5-star hotel is designed in a vibrant modern style providing a combination of deluxe accommodation, diverse culinary experiences, state-of-the-art meeting and event facilities. You’d think I was some spoiled princess.

I will admit that I am not displeased to have been left out of the meetings going on tonight. Tomorrow we transfer back to the B and I will get to see Vit. On the one hand I am so excited as despite everything I have missed him. On the other hand? A woman answered his personal phone. Please God don’t let me turn into one of those forever jealous females. I’ve watched a few friends destroy their relationships that way. I trust Vit. I do. I just need to remind myself of that fact and not act like a harridan.

 

[Kathy in FL]

Chapter 125: May 18 – Transfer back to Haifa and then set sail

Good lord, Momma would have certainly put today in the “what a mess” category. First the transfer back to Haifa was a political nightmare with everyone and their mother and other assorted relations stopping us and wanting to see our papers, inspect the equipment, take statements, and rifle through our luggage. The bus was stopped no less than seven times between Amman and Haifa and that doesn’t even include the border crossing.

One of the interns tripped coming off the bus the third time we were stopped and was a mess, but no medical care was available that didn’t delay us even more than we already were. I provided what emergency medical aid that I could, including stabilizing her wrist, but I was very glad to turn her over to the medical staff aboard the B. They were prepared for her as they’d been watching via my bodycam. I saw some faces going very white when they were once again reminded that if I was dressed, I had the fool thing on and running. How it could have possibly slipped their minds I have no idea.

Then there were demonstrations going on in Haifa preventing us from getting close to the port for direct drop off. They sent smaller trucks to pick up our luggage and equipment but those of us that could walk were led around the crowds. Normally the walk from the center of town to the cruise terminal would have taken a mere fifteen minutes. This time, due to the detours, it took over an hour and most everyone was fairly frazzled by the time we got to our own security intake position.

I tried not to show my anxiety otherwise I was afraid of setting off a couple of the interns, in particular the injured girl who was in serious pain.

“Grover!”

“Chief Dymtrus,” he answered making me want to clock him in the head. He must have sensed it because he let up off of the prank he was trying to have at my expense and gave me a hand getting my charges onboard faster than I had been able to herd them up to that point.

As calmly as I could manage I told my charges, “Ladies and Gentlemen, I know that you want your dinner and your cabin but please follow the security personnel to a debriefing first. I’m sure that someone has made sure to have drinks and snacks available for your comfort. I’m sorry this prevents you from climbing in the shower as some of you had been saying was your first priority; but sooner started, sooner finished. That’s right … just that way and they’ll have the fans going as well I’m sure.” I saw Polina send someone on an errand real quick and then give me a look like butter wouldn’t melt in her mouth. Yeah right. I’m sure she’s glad I called those instructions in ahead of our arrival. Anything to get some of the group to move faster and complain less. They’d been good in public while the cameras were rolling but I’d seen the signs and wanted to head off hysterics caused by more stress. Debriefings seemed to bring it out of some of them, or so I’ve heard.

I could have melted into the bulkhead myself but I was anxious to see Vit. I was craning my neck this way and that when from behind me I heard, “You are looking for someone?”

“Vit!”

I barely remembered to watch the PDA but I needn’t have bothered. Vit was stiff enough for both of us. I wasn’t sure what to make of it but happily placed my hand on the arm he offered. When I realized we were heading for the dining room I stopped him, “Vit, I know you are probably starving but can we go back to the cabin for just a moment? I want to hear how your week has gone.”

He gave me a strange look but willingly changed directions. As soon as we were in the cabin he moved away from me. “How’s your cold?” I asked.

“It does not matter.”

“Yes, it does,” I disagreed.

“I am well.”

Every time I tried to step towards him he avoided me. “Vit?”

“You are doubtless tired. Or perhaps you have an appointment with those interns.”

“Yes I’m tired … tired of playing politics. But I suppose that’s the job. The interns? Why would I be meeting with them?”

With a bit of curtness in his tone he said, “I am told you spent a great deal of time with … some of them.”

I snorted. “Off and on I guess but only because I was supposed to be their babysitter and keep them out of trouble. They weren’t awful but … I don’t know. They weren’t the other students we’ve had. But to be honest I’m glad to be done with this extension.”

Giving me a look he asked, “You did not make friends with your roommates?”

I laughed because I couldn’t help it. “Yes. The computers and translators were kind enough not to hog the bathroom and the slide machine had a good conversation but was always at odds with the laser pointers.”

“You … jest?”

Kicking my shoes off I rummaged in the small frig for one of the bottles of wine we keep there only to find there was only the dregs left in one bottle. Frowning at it I explained, “First night there was a snafu and from that point on I was odd man out and stayed in whatever room all of the equipment was stored in at night.” Turning to him and holding what I’d found in the frig I asked, “Can we open another bottle?”

Instead of answering my question he asked one of his own. “If you had such privacy why did you not call me?”

“I tried to on Sunday – the only day I had permission for private calls. You didn’t answer or call me back.”

“You did not,” he snapped.

Rarely does Vit’s way of speaking bother me enough to ignite my temper but it had been a long day and an even longer week and to be accused of lying set me off in a way he was not expecting.

“Do not tell me I am lying.” My snarl caught him off guard and almost set his temper off as well. But when I shoved my phone in his face, he finally backed up enough to have his faith in his “facts” shaken. “And to prove it you can ask that woman that answered the phone the second time I called. She said you were busy and that she’d tell you that I called. It was you who never called me back.”

“Ni,” he denied like there could be no other answer in the universe.

I could have really used that glass of wine. I don’t think either one of us realized just how wound up I was. With more attitude than I normally allow myself to show I told Vit, “Well I showed you my phone, so you show me yours.”

He obviously meant to prove me wrong but when he went through his calls and couldn’t find them I told him to check his deleted messages. He almost didn’t but just to prove he was right he opened the folder and slowly his face went a pasty green color that usually presages a run for the toilet after a night of drinking. His face went slack when he found my two calls … the message I left with the first call was still there … and where my second one had been answered by someone that had stayed on the line nearly a minute before disconnecting.

Generating a little snark since the mood in the room seemed to call for it I asked, “Now I wonder who that could have been?”

“I … I … left my phone in a meeting room. But … no one would … no one …” Then he got a look on his face and turned away from me. I wanted to go “A hah!” but he turned back to me and said, “You … did call me.” But the realization looked painful and confusing. Instead of “a hah” I suddenly had the urge to go “oh no” and even if I did not say it, it must have showed on my face.

“I swear Veta … it is not as it seems.”

Ready to believe him just to quiet my own suspicions I said, “Fine. I want a bottle of wine.”

“You need to eat first.”

“Ni,” I said impatiently.

Before either one of us could have our way there was a knock on the cabin door. Vit blinked when I said a rather rude word but it was too late, we’d already been interrupted. I tossed the empty wine bottle in the trash and answered the door.

“Yes?”

“Oh … hello?” this gorgeous woman said like I wasn’t the one she expected to answer the door. Then looking around me she grinned with bright white veneers and tittered, “Vit! Are you ready? You said it wouldn’t take long and we’re anxious to get the game going.”

“Uh …” my husband stuttered looking like a deer in the headlights.

“I’m sure he’s ready,” I drawled. I turned to him, “Since you obviously had plans, I’ll just go check in with Polina. Don’t let me hold you up.” I didn’t storm out of the cabin, I at least had the presence of mind to maintain some dignity, but I wasn’t exactly in the mood to make small talk either. You could have probably lit a match on me when I heard the woman chuckle and say “oops” as I walked down the passageway.

I was allowed to wait in Polina’s office until she arrived and knowing where she kept the good vodka I dug it out and was on my second shot when she walked in.

“Oh dear,” was all she said when she sat down and noticed. “You started without me,” she added before pulling another glass out and pouring herself a couple of fingers of the stuff.

“Please tell me there are no more of these extensions.”

She shrugged. “I cannot promise.” At my mumbling a few rude phrases she nodded, “Yes, they are disruptive to ship discipline as well. But I do not set the schedule, only arrange for security. Were there any particular instances you wish to discuss?”

We talked nearly an hour, and drank a few more shots, before I was tapped out and Polina gathered enough information for her own set of reports.

Still feeling abused I told her, “Next time send one of the men.”

“I’ve considered it but the only ones qualified have threatened to jump ship if I even mention it.”

“Is that all it takes?” I asked beginning to realize I should have eaten something.

“Ah, but you have Vit to tie you to the ship,” she said with a chuckle.

Before I can prevent it slipping out I asked, “Do I?”

Becoming very serious she told me, “Whatever the rumors are, I have seen nothing.”

I snorted, “Well I have. Or someone doing a good job of trying to make me think something is going on. I’ve been through this once before, I don’t want to do it again.”

In surprise she asks, “With Vit?”

“Ni. And I don’t want to live my life over again. But …”

“Then do not. And yes, I know of what I speak as I have been there as well. I allowed it to cause problems in my marriage. Learn from my mistakes. Do not repeat them.”

I looked at Polina a long time before asking, “It’s worth it right?”

“Yes. It is a time that will pass.”

I sighed and stood up. “I hope it passes sooner rather than later and doesn’t feel like a kidney stone while it is happening.”

She laughed and said, “You need something to eat Little Sister. Do you need someone to walk you back to your cabin?”

“Nii,” I told her with a shake of my head. “I’m not really tipsy, just tired.”

Cast iron stomach or not, I will admit having to walk carefully back to the cabin to remain on a straight path. All I really wanted to do was take a shower and climb in the bed I’d considered my own for a while. I became morose and wondered if it still was but came back to a surprise.

I walked in to find a plate covered and a bottle of wine chilling. And a note. “I am not playing cards. There was an accident on the Bridge and I am needed to fill in until next shift. Please eat. The wine will be chilled and you can take a bubbly bath. We will talk. I will make the time for it. If you wish it of me. I will not keep you up late. I know you have an excursion you must accompany tomorrow. Your orders arrived while you met with Polina.”

Lovely. Not.

I’m going to eat. I’m going to pour a glass of wine and take it into the bath and try and soak off whatever this is. I’ll decide at that point whether I really want to talk or not.

 

[Kathy in FL]

Chapter 126: May 19 – Limassol, Cyprus

Vit was very depressed and embarrassed last night. And the same this morning. He said he confronted the woman that took my message and she said she forgot.

“Was it the woman I met?”

“Nii,” he said sadly.

“Vit …”

“Kokhana, I swear it. I know it looks … bad. I am aware I behaved like an ass but …”

“Fine. Let’s just … forget it. Just do me a favor and change your phone passcode. She may say she forgot but that doesn’t explain how my message got deleted. Just … change your passcode for me. Please.”

“Of course. I will do it now and you can …”

“I don’t need to know it. I just don’t want anyone else to have it. And I know it makes me sound like a jealous shrew but if you are going to have female friends, professional or not, warn them I’m not fond of those kinds of pranks.”

He looked at me sadly. “You do not believe me.”

“Wrong. I am choosing to believe you. I don’t happen to like how those women make me feel. This … life … or whatever you want to call it … is difficult enough as it is. We don’t need the kinds of problems other people seem to want to create for us.”

I woke up twice in the night with him wrapped around me so tightly I could barely breathe. It was easy to get him to let go both times but it made for a restless night for me. The night did not seem to have done Vit much good either but we both had work to attend to. He insisted I eat though I didn’t really want to. He even walked me to security so I could meet with the students. I was ready to be over with whatever happened but Vit didn’t seem to know how to let it go so I patted my pocket.

“Yes?”

I said, “I have our list.”

“You … do?” he asked so painfully surprised that I nearly wept.

“Yes. I do. I can’t promise that I’ll get any shopping done but if I can I will bring it back to you. We can add it to our inventory and get another box together to put in our storage locker.”

He straightened and seemed to be trying. “Perhaps you can find a few bottles of wine. I … er … drank quite a few while you were gone.”

I didn’t like the sound of that so I know I need to keep an eye out. At least it wasn’t vodka. Those kinds of problems we don’t need.

We had to separate from that point and I was off on the excursion to Limassol, Cyprus. I was extremely relieved to find out that I would be touring as security and chaperone both with the Science Club Tour. It meant more work, I wouldn’t just be able to fade into the background but compared to what I’d experienced with the politicians, it was still going to be a cake walk. The one thing I had to be careful of was to not allow it to show because it would reveal how unhappy I’ve been and it would be caught on the body cam.

There are days when I hate the body cam simply because it destroys nearly all my sense of privacy outside of the cabin. But such is life. It’s not like the cabin is much of a haven right now anyway. Vit alternates between ignoring me and being morose because he thinks I am ignoring him when all I am trying to do is give him some space so I don’t come off like a Needy Nelly. Whoever said this adulting would get easier as time went by obviously didn’t know what they were talking about.

Today was demanding, but not overly so. The students were able to keep up and no one complained. They were too busy experiencing the natural beauty and delicious farm cuisine of Cyprus during an enriching outdoor excursion. They were certainly glad to “work the wiggles out” in a way they don’t get to onboard ship.

First we drove with our guide along a scenic route to Pissouri and a small dairy house. Once there we met a dairy farmer and learned how the island’s famous Halloumi cheese is made. Halloumi is a semi-hard cheese typically made from the milk of goats, sheep, or cows, or a mixture of those two or three. Each producer tends to have their own secret blend. Although the cheese has been enjoyed for hundreds of years in Cyprus, it has only in the last couple of decades become popular outside and the country and can be found in grocery stores and restaurants around the world. Because it has a higher melting point than many other types of cheese, it can be grilled or fried without losing its shape. For this reason, it’s typically served cooked, which enhances its signature salty taste and makes it slightly crispy on the outside. It is also frequently used as a meat substitute. It also packs a punch nutritionally. A one-ounce cube is 25% protein and 25% calcium.

After the farm we headed to Alektora, where a picturesque nature trail awaited us. As we walked the slightly uphill path, we passed fertile farmland and Cypriot orchids. Our guide also showed us something called Adonis sprouts which are said to have sprung from the tears of Aphrodite after the loss of her lover Adonis. We pauseed at a rocky terrace to take in stunning views of the sea and Petra tou Romiou, the birthplace of Aphrodite. We continued on to a secluded beach, where we were presented with a barbecue lunch. As a surprise the students weren’t expecting, they were able to take a dip in the crystal-clear waters.

I didn’t go in the water but supervised the “science” where they took local samples of water and soil and asked our guide and the staff who provided the meal to tell them about their lives and what they enjoyed about living in Cyprus … and if there was anything they would change. While they did that I logged in the various food samples we were provided. There was afelia (Pork marinated in wine and coriander), sheftalia (grilled spiced mince balls), koupepia (grape leaves stuffed with minced meat and rice), stifado (Beef stew casseroled with wine, spices and lots of onions), loukanika (Sausages soaked in red wine and smoked), kleftiko (Lamb slowly cooked in a sealed clay oven and seasoned with bay leaves and other spices), lountza (Smoked pork done in a very Cypriot way), halloumi (the white cheese we’d brought with us from the farm), barbouni (a platter that held red mullet, octopus cooked in whine, kalamari, white bait, sea bass and a lot more), and talatouri (a yogurt dip with fresh mint and garlic). That wasn’t all however. On the other table there was Loukoumades (Deep fried doughnuts with honey syrup), shiamali (Semolina cake sometimes done with orange or almonds), daktyla (Pastry done in the shape of fingers with walnut or almond, cinnamon and syrup), loukoumia (cubes of gelatin flavoured with rose water and covered with powdered sugar), shoushouko (grape juice solidified filled with almonds or walnuts, formed in a shape of long rods), kolokotes (a pastry filled with red pumpkin, raisins and cracked wheat), and koupes (fried cracked wheat filled with mince mint and spices). It was quite the spread albeit all in sample-sized bites. Certainly the students did justice to all of it and even used manners and helped clean up after themselves which was much appreciated by the servers.

After our meal and the free time at the beach we took on Limassol’s cultural and natural treasures, from its coast to its historic Old Town. Our guide took us past picturesque citrus groves and vineyards to the 12th-century Kolossi Castle. Built by the Order of St. John of Jerusalem, the three-story castle keep is remarkably well preserved. It is a huge, blocked shaped edifice that definitely seems like something out of the ancient Middle East.

From there we drove to the ancient ruins of Kourion to make a photo-stop at its Greco-Roman amphitheater, a 2nd-century BC structure that is still in use today. The rest of the site is an archaeological wonder. Here the students learned about the physics of building some of the buildings that lay in ruins around them.

Not far from Kourion is the Troodos Mountains where we visited the charming village of Omodhos. We had to get permission slips specifically for this part of the tour because here we learned about the Holy Cross Monastery. Why some people want to turn learning about Christianity into fear of proselytizing I don’t know. Mostly we heared about its impressive wood carvings and old icons, and saw a restored wine press. Nothing was controversial in the least.

Before our guide left us, we traveled to the Old Town of Limassol. We explored the medieval castle quarter and had free time which allowed me to stroll the shop-lined streets of Makarios III and Agiou Andreou. I managed to spend some money while “strolling” as I wanted to keep my promise to Vit to try. First was the ubiquitous olive oil that seems to be a must-buy in every town.

Next … the wine. The main wine-making districts in Cyprus are the areas next to Limassol and Paphos. Xynisteri, Maratheftiko, Muscat, Mavro and other grape varieties are grown here, or so was explained to me when I showed an interest. The oldest and the most famous Cyprus wine is called Commandaria. This sweet dessert wine was mentioned by ancient Greek poet Hesiod who referred to it as Cypriot Manna - sacramental wine. Commandaria is the name of the area where wine was produced by Knights Templar and later Hospitaller and from where it was first imported to Europe. Zivania is another popular drink, which is based on wine. Being 45% by volume, it is produced from a mixture of grape pomace and local dry wines. I got a case and had it sent to the B. I was a little concerned but there appeared to be no need because it was sitting in our cabin when I got back in. And I was happy to see that the bottles of Five Kings, otherwise known as Cypriot brandy, made it without breaking.

When the shop saw I had money to spend they introduced me to a local embroidery made in the “knot to knot” technique. It is a lace and is considered to have roots in the early period of Byzantine rule. All the laces were handmade and when I asked about the unusual patterns I was informed that secrets of crocheting (the patterns) stay within the village they come from. I bought a few pieces despite their price. They were too unusual not to.

Did you know that carob is a product of Cyprus? An interesting fact: in ancient times people used carob seeds as a measure of weight. Each seed weights 200 grams – precisely as much as a carat, widely used in jewelry. Had I time I would have gone to the small Carob Museum that was in the area. I love unusual things like that and who knows if I’ll ever pass this way again.

The carob tree is an indigenous species of the island, cultivated for four thousand years. Once the island’s major export, the carob pods or ‘black gold’, were prized for their versatility, high nutritional value and hardiness that allowed them to be stored and transported across long distances. I couldn’t bring back much – black gold is an apt name for it – but I did get some carob syrup, carob flour, and a carob toffee known as ‘Pastelli’ to share with Vit. The only other thing I bought was Walnut jam and a couple of simple bottles of Cyprus honey. Oh yes, and post cards.

I was in a fine mood when I got back to the ship. The meeting with Polina was very brief as there had been no problems with our group though I heard that the other students had slipped a bit in their behavior after being cooped up for a week with no outlet for their energies.

I was juggling my purchases and having trouble with the blasted key card with the door swung open and I discovered Vit was there waiting for me. In his hand was a mug of tea for me.

“You didn’t need to go to this trouble.”

“You … do not want it?”

“That’s not what I said. I … look Vit. I just don’t want to continue to beat each other up with whatever happened. Let’s try and let it go. Thank you for the tea. It is thoughtful. Let me clean up and we can go to dinner or stay in. Which would you prefer?”

He sighed. “I … must attend one of those damn departmental meetings.” He grumbled in Russian of all things using words I’m pretty sure he hoped I didn’t understand then said, “It will run late and then I am scheduled for a night shift. I am sorry.”

I could tell he was sincere. What I didn’t like was that it seemed that was inferring that I would be angry with him for some reason. “Oh. Well then let’s grab something to eat. Unless there is going to be food at the meeting.”

“There will be, but I would prefer us to dine together.”

And that’s what we did. He thought he was fooling me when he turned us away from a party that was coming towards us. It was mostly made of women and it looked like a couple were trying to get Vit’s attention. Perhaps I have reason to be jealous but I’m not completely sure. Vit had a harried look on his face when heading off to the departmental meeting. It means something but I’m not sure what just yet.

 

[Siskiyoumom]

Thank you so much!

 

[Kathy in FL]

Chapter 127: May 20 – Ephesus/Kusadasi, Turkey

Oh my aching feet but … drumroll please … bucket list, bucket list, bucket list. Derrick demanded pictures aplenty and I can just imagine he, Papa, and I going back over everything we’d seen today. I could have wished Vit was there but some electronic something or other was acting up so I didn’t dare even bother him with texting despite the fact that he was supposed to be off most of the day and relaxing in the gym. I was so irritated when I found out and he seemed rather taken with my reaction. He still seems so hesitant, like he keeps expecting for me to be mad at him for something. If I was another woman, I might allow myself to think that he is acting this way because he is truly guilty. But I know Vit. There is something going on, but it isn’t him being unfaithful.

Ugh, I am getting off track and I’m not going to start letting my thoughts form a rut in my psyche. Guess where I was today? And why am I treating this blasted journal like it is a real person?! I think I may be losing my mind. Or maybe I am just feeling a little silly. I got to actually speak to Derrick today. He sounds better than he has in a long time. That alone is worth being happy about, but I heard that Benji has been making real progress and they are stepping him down from the medication he was on for his anxiety and depression issues. He no longer needs a nightlight in his room to sleep. And ………. he was accepted into the step-down program which means next school year he can live at home but will continue to have online coursework and weekly counseling sessions.

And Reggie is dating a girl. Her father is retired from medical research, mostly concerning the efficacy of vaccines around the world, but he branched into other areas before selling his share of his practice. Derrick knows the family from The Foundation. Even Lena’s parents like them. They still try and have more to do with ordering Reggie and Benji’s lives than Derrick is comfortable with but he knows they are well-meaning. What’s more Reggie and Benji know they are well-meaning but neither one wants to play “do over” to replace their mother. I’ve said it before, “Not my monkeys, not my circus.” I hope no one asks me to get involved. I really do not feel it is my place though I will support the boys in whatever is their choice.

And the thing with Barbie that has been festering in my memories may even be healing. Shock of all shocks, Reggie was able to convince her to start counseling … more of a support group kind of thing from what I understand but I came back to the room to find an email from Barbie that sounded both like and unlike my sister. She at least tried to explain what has been going on in her life without blaming me for not being there for it. She also asked me to pray for her daughter. I immediately called her and she was so surprised that she started crying. It made me worried that something horrible had happened … I hadn’t exactly read the entire email before placing the call. It turns out that they got a diagnosis.

I have never heard of Unipolar Disorder but apparently it is a subset of symptoms of ADHD, or something like that. Barbie was nearly manic when she was trying to explain it to me, like she needed me to understand and no longer be upset with my niece.

“Barbs, I was never … yes, I mean I was upset but it was more about the fact that she seemed to have no sense that she’d crossed a line.”

I could hear my sister sigh. “Yeah, that puts into words what I was feeling myself except I didn’t want to admit it. Did Derrick tell you I’m in counseling?”

“What?!” It was after that conversation that I called and spoke to Derrick and he confirmed what Barbie had told me but also said that Barbie is being harder on herself than any of us would ever be. Looks like I need to keep more than my niece in my prayers. And I guess I need to chuck my own attitude problems and take down some of the wall that I’ve built the last few months.

And it was during the conversation with Derrick that he demanded all the details. He’s always wanted to travel in Paul’s footsteps … the physical ones. I thought one day that Poppa, Derrick, and I would … oh pooh. I’m not going to get sad. Refuse to.

Today I was with the high school students – at least the ones that were given permission to attend – on an excursion to Ephesus, Turkey. And in case that makes no impression, Ephesus is where the Book of Ephesian relates to in the New Testament of the Christian Bible.

I am told that not that many decades ago that Kusadasi sleepy, seaside village in Turkey. It certainly has the feel of an Aegean port. But mass tourism has come to this part of the world and perhaps the place – gateway to ancient Ephesus – has paid a price for it. On the other hand, it has certainly made it possible for the dreams of some people to come true. Economically for the residents of Kusadasi, and it has allowed others to travel to a place they might never have known still existed.

The day started the evening before for the students as they were given a port of call lecture. For me? I read through my “orders” several times making notes. First of all, we were warned that we would walk a lot during our time in Ephesus. The students’ attire would be strictly confined to their uniforms and if they did not wear appropriate shoes before exiting the ship … they would not be exiting the ship. That rule would be strictly enforced. I hadn’t heard but apparently some students wound up in the Med Bay because they didn’t wear appropriate footwear during the tours in Israel. I wonder what else I missed.

Secondly, because we were scheduled to be outdoors for hours, each person in the party from student to chaperon were required to bring a hat, sunglasses, and sun screen to protect ourselves from harmful effects of the sun. Lastly everyone would be carrying their own passport for the duration. Normally I or a lead teacher would carry them through the day but Turkey’s rules are stricter. Some of the parents were not comfortable with this while others wondered why the students weren’t expected to remain responsible all along. I’m in the middle on the topic but I was very pleased that everyone was careful and behaved and there were no lost documents to create problems.

Vit walked me to the security exit once again but then left to return to the cabin to prepare for his own day … which was supposed to be the gym and whirlpool. I on the other hand started herding cats. The students finally calmed a bit when we got on our bus and got settled. Our guide’s presence and interesting way of speaking caught the student’s attention the rest of the way and we had an entertaining ride that lasted approximately 40 minutes. As soon as the road trip was over, we headed to the first stop, which was the ancient city of Ephesus.

Ephesus is most well-known for the book of Ephesians included in the Bible. It was a letter written while Paul was in prison to a man named Tychicus, an Asiatic Christian mentioned in the Bible five times, all in conjunction with working with Paul in some fashion. The job of the letter, and Tychicus, was to encourage the fledgling Christians in Ephesus during a time of prosecution.

Walking the streets of the ruins of Ephesus was a nearly surreal experience for me and I had to regularly reprimand myself for forgetting the real reason I was there … security for a group of kids counting on me to be the adult in charge. As much as I would have liked to have lost myself in the experience, the truth was I needed to remain situationally aware. Turkey is a country with many different faces. Most tourists are treated as welcome guests but as with any country, situations can occur that make you want to be anywhere else but there. I remember Poppa debating a trip here. There are cities that have westernized enough that tourists were rarely if ever in danger. Then there were other parts of the country that still seemed to live in the stone ages and non-Muslims were either feared or despised, not to mention in the midst of some armed conflict or other. For now our group was not in obvious danger but I warned myself not to become complacent.

Agoras, theatres, libraries, gates, temples, columns, marbles, statues, tombs and more of Ephesus were on display and revealed to us the eras of Romans and Byzantines. By following the our guide as he pointed out the antique ambiance, we experienced the spirits of our ancient ancestors. Every step filled out imagination and amazed us with interesting facts. The stunning ruins included the towering façade of the Celsus Library and Hadrian's Temple, as well as the Sacred Way, which was one of the main thoroughfares used by the Ancient Romans.

We also made a stop at the Terrace Houses located opposite Hadrian's Temple. The wealthy and important people of Ephesus used these houses, which are finely decorated with mosaics and frescoes, giving us a true impression of the ancient lifestyle of the city. Those on the upper slopes were reached via steps and situated on the slopes of Bulbul Mountain with the roof of one house forming the terrace of the one above it. Continuing from the library to the end of the marble street, we looked up at Ephesus' impressive amphitheater, where St Paul preached to the Ephesians.

We also stopped at the Basilica of Saint John. The basilica was constructed by Justinian I in the 6th century. It stands over the believed burial site of John the Apostle. It was modeled after the lost [destroyed] Church of the Holy Apostles in Constantinople. Not much is known about the basilica but our guide did tell us this: It is believed that the Apostle John traveled from Jerusalem to the city of Ephesus where he remained for the rest of his life. It was during his time there that Emperor Domitian exiled him to the Isle of Patmos, where he wrote Revelation (the Apocalypse). When Nerva became emperor John was pardoned and returned to Ephesus, where he lived the remainder of his days. Poppa would have known whether that was true or a legend; my Biblical studies have suffered for a while now. I meant to ask Derrick if he knew but forgot, perhaps I will put it in an email to him.

What I can tell you is that The Basilica had a cruciform plan with four domes along its longitudinal axis and a pair flanking the central dome to form the arm of the cross. The tomb of St John is said to have been placed under the central dome.

That wasn’t our last archaeological stop. Next, we visited Mt Pagus—a setting that is a shrine to some and a curiosity to others. It is reputedly one of the homes of Mary, the mother of Jesus Christ. Some archaeological evidence shows that the little house dates from the 6th century AD but that its foundations are from the 1st century AD. This ties in with the commonly held belief that Mary moved to Turkey after Jesus’ crucifixion.

If you weren’t told what the house is supposed to be it would appear as just another indescript archaeological site. Here is the description from the brochure I saved for my keepsake box. On the way to the shrine, visitors pass a key hole-shaped baptismal pool, larger than the one located at the basilica in Ephesus. It is thought that an early community of Christians may have lived or were baptized here in seclusion in order to escape the nearby Romans. The shrine itself is not extensively large, but may rather be described as a modest chapel. The preserved stones and construction date back into the Apostolic Age, as consistent with other preserved buildings from that time, but with minor additions such as garden landscapes and devotional additions outside the shrine. Upon entrance to the chapel, a pilgrim is met by one single large room where an altar along with a large statue of the Blessed Virgin Mary is prominently displayed in the center. On the right side, a smaller room lies----traditionally associated with the actual room where the Virgin Mary is believed to have slept. Marian tradition holds that some form of running water used to flow like a canal in the smaller room where the Virgin Mary slept and rested, leading to the present drinking fountain outside the building structure.

More than the site itself, I found its discovery to be interesting. Although the Catholic Church has never confirmed what is called Mary’s House to be the place of her assumption, three popes have visited, and the Church takes responsibility for running the house through donations and funding. Historians and religious experts both agree that St. John, St. Paul and the Mary, mother of Jesus, spent time living in the ancient city of Ephesus. However, the discovery of the house is not that straightforward. In the early 19th century, a nun named Anne Catherine Emmerich took to her bed where she dreamed intensely; some claim in a religious fervor, and others report she had become ill with a high fever. Either way, during her time of fervor or fever, her dreams and visions included stories of the life of Jesus Christ and the Virgin Mary. These were recorded contemporaneously; however, it was not until fifty-seven years after her death that her dreams were published in a book. A priest read and followed the descriptions from her dreams to discover what is now believed by many to be the last resting place of the Virgin Mary. Anne the nun and the priest had never been to Ephesus and at that time, excavation work had not started so it was not as widely known as it is today. Yet? The description from the dreams of the location was vivid enough to allow the priest to find a house whose description had been just as vividly described. And while he was convinced, it took many years for him to convince others. The Church still seems to be a bit wishy washy about the location but there are enough that make pilgrimages to the site that its upkeep is now assured.

I can say that I was not the only one topped off with so much information. And right on cue several male stomachs growled giving our guide the perfect lead into our next activity. Known as one of the tastiest takeaway Turkish food, usually sold at a street stand or take out restaurant, the Döner is a burrito-like wrap made with beef, lamb, or chicken. It also includes special spices and different vegetables, and garlic yogurt. Yum. The kids also had fun trying Turkey’s version of a pizza. Pide is a flatbread filled with meat toppings such as sucuk (Turkish sausage), pastrami, and lamb meat. Like a usual pizza, the Pide is also topped with cheese and vegetables. What makes this pizza “Turkish” other than the varied meat toppings is its final touch where the chef usually breaks an egg on it right after the pizza is taken out of the oven. I really didn’t find that appetizing but I was told that it tasted much better than it looked. As adventurous as I am about food, I decided it was safer to take their word on it rather than risk eating raw … or nearly raw egg.

There was a change in schedule as the carpet making demonstration we had been scheduled for changed when it was found to overlap with a larger tourist group. Instead, our guide took us to a market area and we were encouraged to spend. The local economy probably made out better than they would have if our time had been spent at the carpet maker’s location.

My first purchase was a product called apple tea. I’d had a cup during lunch and I can now understand why Vit asked for me to bring him back some if possible. They have two types. The decaffeinated variety made strictly from apples, herbs, and spices; and the caffeinated type that is made with a base of black tea leaves. Yum. Very fruity.

For my sisters and sister in laws I purchased a supply of Turkish saffron. The stuff I will give to the sisters is in cellophane packaging which makes it easier to pack away. I also bought a decorative box of saffron for Polina to give to Yegor. Although, the last time I brought back some special cooking oil she told me in privacy that if she were to explain how much he enjoyed his gift I would groan TMS (“too much sexy”). Close enough and I wasn’t interested in hearing TMS or TMI.

You have to be careful about saffron in Turkey. True Turkish saffron is hard to come by and extremely expensive. The versions sold are actually dried safflower. However, since it is used quite a bit in Spanish cooking recipes I know what it looks and smells like. And I’m willing to pay for the real thing because even at the price I got it for, it is still far better than the outrageous amount they want for a few strings of the stuff back home.

Also on Vit’s list was Turkish coffee - This is a strong drink with an acquired taste. I leave this for him or for whomever will drink it with him. Shudder. I’m not sure that I’ll be able to acquire the taste for it as it is very dark and bitter … and spicy which makes for an odd combination.

My last purchase made some of the kids (and chaperones) stare at me like I’d lost my mind. Three gallons of Lemon Cologne. It has many uses in Turkey. It repels mosquitos and eases the itching from bites. On hot summer days, it is also refreshing. It helps with the odor of sweaty bodies packed into small places like busses. For me it also cuts down on the cigarette smell that permeates so much. It is sold everywhere for an incredibly cheap price. Two of those gallons were for me and one was for Yegor who had specifically asked if I could bring some back through security … please. He so rarely asks for such favors that I knew there was a story behind it as I was to find out from Polina after returning on board ship and turning in my security report for the day.

It seems that there is a new ensign that eats a rather large amount of raw garlic. It has gotten to the point that many people are asking to be reassigned and that’s simply not possible. Yegor has requested that the medical team discuss his body odor with him but thus far there’s been no change. He’s hoping that the citrus smell will cut the smell of garlic that oozes out the man’s pores.

I was hoping to have dinner with Vit but when I got back to the cabin he had left a note that he had to take an extra shift. But he also said that he left me something. On the table I found a decorative leather pouch which I carefully opened and inside I found a necklace of onyx beads. Vit’s love language is giving gifts. I am trying not to see this gift in any other way. It has been a while since he’s done something like this and I am trying to view it in a positive light and not worry that it is out of regret or guilt. I am going to wear my nice nightgown and the necklace and see how Vit reacts when he comes in. I’ve missed him.

 

[Kathy in FL]

Chapter 128: May 21 – The Dardanelles (cruising)

And I quote:

Dardanelles is a 61 kilometer (28 mile) long and from 1.2 to 6.4 km (3/4 to 4 miles) wide strait between Europe and Asiatic Turkey, respectively known as Thrace and Anatolia. This strategically important strait is the Dardanelles. It leads from the Aegean Sea to the Sea of Marmara and then through the Bosphorus strait to the Black Sea. Thus the Dardanelles is the outer gateway to a great productive area. The world's ships must pass through here to reach the grain ports of Ukraine and the oil ports of Romania and the Caucasus region. The western side of the strait is formed by the Gallipoli peninsula. Major ports along its shores are Gallipoli, Eceabat, and Canakkale; and many famous castles like Kilitbahir built in 1452 by the Ottoman sultan Mehmet II, stand along its banks. Also, famous Turkish sailor and the first Turkish marine cartographer Piri Reis was born in Gelibolu town.

The strait is rich with history and legend. In ancient times it was called the Hellespont, meaning "Helle's sea," in memory of Helle, a mythical Boetian princess. She was drowned in its swift waters after falling from the back of the legendary ram with the golden fleece. Across the Hellespont from the eastern side, Leander swam nightly to visit Hera, a priestess of Aphrodite. In 480 BC Persia's king Xerxes sent his army across the strait on a bridge of boats to invade Greece. In 334 BC Alexander the Great similarly crossed from Greece to invade Persia. The strait takes its name from the old town of Dardanus.

The entry in the history article continued on with the Ottomans in the 1300s and onward into WWI and the Gallipoli Campaign and back to Turkish control of the area. I would have enjoyed hearing more about it but frankly I simply haven’t had the time. Today was a sea day and that meant working in translations and boy had they stacked up in my absence. Or should I say, the documents had been translated but Mr. Baird wanted them double checked for grammatical errors and in his words spiffed up and made more professional sounding. Good heavens.

But I have an idea as well. I’m going to work on these translations at night as well since Vit has to work and in a couple of days when Sunday arrives I can devote a free day to Vit. It’s been so long.

 

[Kathy in FL]

Chapter 129: May 22 – Istanbul (1) - Part 1

To paraphrase a sign seen on many Florida beaches: “Welcome to Istanbul. Now go home.” That is very much the reception we received in several places. There were the ostentatious greetings but after the ceremonies were over it seemed they wanted us to spend our money then get the heck back to the ship and out of their country. It was something easy to ignore at the beginning; however, as the day wore on it became a bit much to take. Istanbul is very different than Kusadasi was. Kusadasi felt like the Aegean. Istanbul is … Istanbul. It is a large, modern city combined with ancient Middle East; ancient and medieval combined with centuries of Ottoman Turks; all overlaid with the complexities of Islamic traditions and secular politics.

I heard from the grapevine (Henry’s commentary while sharing a cuppa over a particularly difficult bit of translation) that the diplomats are experiencing a similar atmosphere behind the scenes. People are putting on good faces for the cameras but the meetings are mostly about airing grievances rather than finding solutions. We have one more day in Istanbul and then we head to an extended tour the Greek Islands and mainland. Today went well with the students. I hope tomorrow goes just as well as this is not a country to behave irresponsibly in.

I think the students had a really good time today despite the fact that attitudes were occasionally so noticeable even the most oblivious of the students took notice. Rather than be in a bus most of the day, it was a walking tour that from beginning to end was about four miles in length. Not a terrible distance to walk but certainly more than most of them were used to. No one complained however and that was music to my ears. The same cannot be said for a couple of the chaperones who have grown rather spoiled and indolent once again. I hate to bring it up to Polina but if tomorrow does not bring improvement in that area I may be forced to. Today the attitude did not infect the students. I hope it doesn’t tomorrow.

Formerly known as “Byzantium”, “Constantinople” and “New Rome”, Istanbul is the best known city of Turkey. It straddles the Bosphorus Strait bridging the gap between Europe and Asia, both geographically and culturally. It is an ancient transcontinental metropolis, exhibiting the cultural influences of the many empires and civilizations that once ruled this land.

Founded circa 660 BC under the name of Byzantion, the city evolved into one of the most influential in history. In 330 AD it was renamed Constantinople after Constantine the Great who made it the new eastern capital of the Roman Empire. Constantinople remained an imperial capital for more than fifteen hundred years, and was instrumental in the spread of Christianity across Eastern Europe until it was conquered by the Ottomans in 1453 AD and became an Islamic stronghold – seat of the Ottoman Caliphate (or Ottoman Empire as it is known in the Western history books).

For centuries the city enjoyed a strategic position as the only sea route between the Black Sea and the Mediterranean. It was also part of the historic Silk Road, and controlled rail networks between the Balkans and the Middle East. At the end of the Ottoman era in 1923, the capital of the newly established Turkish Republic moved to Ankara and the city was renamed Istanbul. Despite that, its prominence in geopolitical and cultural affairs didn't wane and, since the 1950s, Istanbul's population has grown so much that it is one of the most populous cities in Europe.

We started the morning early and took a quick bus ride to our drop off point, Sultanahmet Square. The former Hippodrome of Constantinople, a circus arena where chariot races and other sporting events once marked the heyday of the Byzantine Empire, lives in a new form called Sultanahmet Meydanı (Sultan Ahmet Square). Here, alongside a few surviving fragments of the ancient Hippodrome, we found many of the famous landmarks of the city, including the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace Museum, Sultan Ahmed Mosque, Suleymaniye Mosque, Serpents column, the Museum of Turkish & Islamic Arts and many others. The Basilica Cistern was a short walk from the square. The Grand Bazaar is within a walking distance, too but more on that later.

The square is very large and has lots of benches scattered around which always seemed to be in use. There were lots of food carts selling a variety of breads, roasted corn and chestnuts, simit (Turkish pretzel) with or without chocolate cream, and plenty more. The smell was fantastic. There’s a tramline in the area as well and it is lined on both sides with shops, restaurants and cafes offering generous selections of teas, coffee, Turkish Delights and gift packs.

As a gathering place, Sultanahmet is continuously bustling with tourists and locals alike, families enjoying the colorful artezian fountain, children running along the greenery between alleys, and the elderly folk basking in the brightness of life all around them. It was a bit nerve-wracking to keep track of all the students and chaperones. Thankfully I was not the only security personnel in attendance and I’d worked with the others and knew their habits and what’s better than knew the students … and the students knew them and knew where the line was in terms of acceptable behavior. The square is also home to a large number of street cats and dogs who seem to be rather friendly. It was challenging to keep the animal lovers of the group from constantly seeking to pet them. I like animals, I do, but I also know street animals – much like street people – are not always very hygienic and I didn’t want to send them back to their parents with some animal-acquired illness.

One thing I seem to fail to mention is that each student is expected to carry in their uniform pocket a collapseable hat and a rain poncho. I was glad they had both today. The square, and most of our walking tour, was open to the elements and we saw the entire gamut today … direct sunshine to nearly pouring rain. There’s very little cover and none for a group our size, so both hat and plastic poncho came in handy. It was too crowded for umbrellas and I wound up having to “disable” one that a chaperone wouldn’t give up. I reported the incident to Polina but all she did was laugh and then say she would pass the new rule along to the chaperone coordinator. No umbrellas. They impede security personnel’s ability to keep track of the students.

Our next stop was the Turkish and Islamic Arts Museum. It sits in a palace that has a great deal of archaeology and history attached to it. Built in 1524 above the underground ruins of an ancient Hippodrome, it was designed for Pargalı Ibrahim Pasha, a confidant and second grand vizier to Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent. He also married the Sultan's sister, Hatice Sultan. As history has it, the higher the climb, the greater the fall. Jealous people, including the Sultan's wife, didn't like the influence Ibrahim Pasha had on the monarch and eventually convinced Suleyman of Ibrahim's disloyalty, and the Sultan had him executed.

Today the palace houses a museum showcasing over 40,000 exhibits of Islamic art – primarily from the Ottoman era, but also a substantial collection from the earlier Seljuk Turkish period, including illuminated Korans, carpets, miniature paintings, notable examples of Islamic calligraphy, tiles, ceramics, rugs and wooden carvings. In the basement there are interesting displays on various cultures of Turkey, particularly the nomadic groups, recreating dwellings from different historic epochs and regions. As the museum is just a stone's throw away from the tourist hot spots of the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sofia, it offered a convenient break from the hustle and bustle of the Old Town.

We passed by the Obelisk of Theodosius. Commissioned by Pharaoh Thutmose III in the 15th century BC, the Egyptian Obelisk has four faces with a single central column of inscription, celebrating the Pharaoh's victory over the Mitanni which took place on the banks of the Euphrates in about 1450 BC. With the ascent of the Hittite Empire, Mitanni and Egypt eventually struck an alliance to protect their mutual interests from the threat of Hittite domination.

Our guide explained that what we saw is only the top third of the original obelisk built for the great temple of Karnak in Egypt, which the Romans had cut into pieces and shipped up the river Nile to Alexandria in 390 AD. This top section has survived nearly 3,500 years in astonishingly good condition., and it stands today where Emperor Theodosius placed it, on a marble pedestal, to commemorate his 20th anniversary on the throne of Constantinople. The reliefs on the pedestal show Theodosius as he offers a laurel wreath to the victor from the Kathisma (Imperial box) at the Hippodrome. A little out of place as such things go, it still proved rather exciting for our history buffs. Shhhh, but I count myself in that number and I uploaded a picture of it to my vlog much to the confusion of several of my siblings who asked if I was in Egypt.

Our first mosque of the day is one of the most frequently visited. Known as the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, it is even more popularly known as the “Blue Mosque” due to the blue tiles that adorn the walls of its interior. It was built between 1609 and 1616 during the reign of Ahmed the First. It contains a tomb of the Sultan, a madrassah (religious school) and also a hospice. I was surprised at the tomb being there as there are certain laws in Islam that restrict worshipping idols which often also includes things like statues and paintings of faces. Additionally, despite being a very famous tourist attraction, it still functions as a mosque. The call for prayer (azaan) still draws Muslims to its gates from far and wide. Usually accessible 24 hours a day, the mosque is not open for tourists during prayer time (which is approximately half an hour) five times a day, unless they are there to pray.

In addition to all things educational, the guide explained he brought us to visit the Blue Mosque because compared to other mosques in Istanbul, it is significantly easier to access because of its free admission and central location. We did have to observe a dress code, but our group is used to following such edicts and came prepared.

Our next stop was rather … hmmmm … atmospheric. The Yerebatan Sarnıcı or the Basilica Cistern translates as “Cistern Sinking Into Ground” and is one of the many ancient cisterns that are present in the city of Istanbul. Located near the Hagia Sophia, on the peninsula of Sarayburnu, it was built in the 6th century AD by the Byzantine emperor Justinian the First. The name is derived from the Stoa Basilica upon which it was built. The Basilica was said to be built by Ilias and housed many structures and gardens. Historical texts state that over seven thousand slaves were involved in the construction of the Cistern.

The cistern used to provide a filtration system for the water for the Great Palace of Constantinople and surrounding buildings on the historic First Hill. After the Ottoman conquest, it continued to provide water to the Topkapi Palace and continues to do so even today despite the many restorations it has experienced, both by Ottoman emperors and the Roman emperors before them. Today, the cistern is open to visitors and houses many historical relics like the Medusa columns and triumphal arches. They students enjoyed it because of its spookiness that made for magnificent photos.

Next came one of the day’s highlights, the Hagia Sophia (Ayasofya). This monumental structure was once an Orthodox patriarchal basilica, then a mosque, then a museum, and is once again a mosque of some reknown. It was built in the 4th century by Constantine the Great as a church. Many people mistake it as being dedicated to Saint Sofia, but the church, in fact, was originally dedicated to the second being of the Holy Trinity, and its full Greek name is the “Church of the Holy Wisdom of God”, with Sophia meaning “Wisdom”.

Before its takeover by the Ottoman Turks in 1435, the church housed many holy relics. It was converted into a mosque by Sultan Mehmed II. Hagia Sophia is, without doubt, one of the best examples of Byzantine architecture and was declared a world heritage site by UNESCO in 1985. It features many distinctive decorations and is particularly famous for its fascinating mosaics. The multi-domed enclosure is so mesmerizing that it's hard to take one's eyes off it!

For most tourists, the Topkapi Palace is usually number one on the list of places to visit in Istanbul. This grand palace was the official residence of the Ottoman Sultans for almost 400 years and quite frankly looks it. It is built on a huge scale with four courtyards and a Harem, and each location therein houses incredible displays of Islamic art, holy relics and history. The most prized collection is that of the Islamic relics which include the prophet Mohamed’s sword along with the swords of his closest companions, the cloak of his daughter Fatima and other Islamic holy relics. The grounds with its many gardens and rest stops are ideal for strolling at one's leisure, but most of the exhibits have very long waiting lines, especially the Harem and the Islamic Relics displays. We had special passes but even with those we were rushed through. I must admit that it was such locations especially that I felt we were being treated as interlopers. Thankfully, given the age range of the students, the Harem Exhibit was tasteful and focused mainly on architecture. Also I was “forced” to purchased a book because in most of the palace photos and videos were forbidden.

The students were starving by this point and our guide took us to a street vendor (aka, his uncle) who had prepared enough kebabs to feed our entire group and we ate them in flatbread. It reminded me, except for the taste, of buying tacos from the street vendors back home. We finished our “meal” as we walked to our next stop.

 

[Kathy in FL]

Chapter 129 - Part 2

We were told by our guide that no visit to Istanbul is complete without stopping by the Spice Bazaar. I for one concur. One of the largest and most famous bazaars in Istanbul, it is located near the Galata Bridge in the Eminönü quarter of the Fatih district. While the Grand Bazaar, which we also saw, may be the largest and most popular covered shopping complex in the city, this spice market is by far the most colorful, fragrant, and often the most fun.

Built in 1664, as part of the Yeni Camii (New Mosque) complex, it is known locally as Mısır Çarşısı, which is sometimes translated to either "Egyptian Bazaar" or Corn Market. There are several documents, however, suggesting that initially the place was called "New Bazaar" and eventually got the name "Egyptian" because its construction was subsidized with proceeds from the Ottoman eyalet of Egypt in 1660. As part of the New Mosque, the revenues obtained from the shop rentals within the bazaar were used for the mosque upkeep.

Traditionally, this place has been the center of spice trade in Istanbul, although in recent years it has seen more and more shops of other types move in. I counted 85 shops under its roof selling spices, Turkish delight and other sweets, dried fruits and nuts, tea, Turkish coffee, pottery, jewelry, and souvenirs. Overall, the market is a wonderful place to stroll and enjoy the sights, smells and, of course, tastes. Of course, as in all tourist destinations, the discussion of price here is essential, so haggling is welcome. This is where I came in handy … translations. Some of the men didn’t appreciate a woman doing this type of work but I tried to keep my behavior otherwise circumspect and respectful. Some let it go with no comment and some tried to seize on it as a way to tease a male into foolishness. “You need a woman to conduct your business?” was said more than once.

I, personally, spent what felt like a small fortune there but when I had it laid out in the cabin it seemed to bring Vit a great deal of satisfaction. At first he thought I bought it to divide up amongst my siblings. When I said, “Well, they’ll get some of this as holiday gifts but most of this is for us.” Vit became quite … uh hmmm … amorous. He can be so odd at times. I used to be able to read his moods quite easily. Now I’m as confused as I was when we first met. I know I’m missing some piece of the picture, I just wish I knew what it was. I feel at a ridiculous disadvantage, like I am only hearing half of one side of a conversation.

After the Spice Bazaar we went to the Rustem Pasha Mosque. Built during 1561-63 this is an Imperial Ottoman mosque of great significance. It was designed by the famed Imperial Architect Mimar Sinan for the Grand Vizier Damat Rüstem Pasha, husband of Princess Mihrimah, daughter of the Ottoman Sultan Suleiman “the Magnificent”. The mosque has a large number of Iznik tiles (decorated ceramic tiles) that make it distinct from others. They are set in many floral and geometric patterns that cover not only the interior but are also found on the columns and porch outside. No other mosque in Istanbul makes use of such tiles in such a manner. The tiles used to decorate Rüstem Pasha are of the characteristic tomato-red color, which denotes the early Iznik period. The main dome of the mosque rests on four semi-domes and the design of the building is that of an octagon inscribed in a rectangle. Galleries are present to the north and south of the main room, and these are supported by marble columns and pillars.

One mosque was followed by another on our itinerary. Suleymaniye Mosque was built for Suleiman “The Magnificent” by the famous imperial architect Mimar Sinan in 1557. It is modeled in part on the Hagia Sofia, and in part on a Byzantine basilica, in order to reflect the grandeur of the city’s past architectural monuments. But “past” is all relative given the centuries in the past we were being told about. And just like other religious architecture around the world the Süleymaniye Mosque was ravaged by fire in 1660 and subsequently restored by Mehmet IV. Unfortunately, or at least so according to our guide, that restoration work changed the mosque into a baroque-style structure and ruined the original architecture. Despite that and subsequent restorations, it is still one of the more popular tourist points in Istanbul.

The mosque complex consists of a caravanserai, an imaret (public kitchen), a madrassa (Islamic school), a hospital and a hammam (Turkish bath). The public kitchen was constructed to serve food to the poor. The gardens behind the mosque consist of Turbe (tombs) of the great Sultan Suleiman, his wife Roxelana, his mother Dilasub Saliham, his daughter Mihrimah and his sister Asiye. The tombs are fashioned on the Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem. The mosque is distinct from others as it contains the tomb of the great architect Sinan, designed by the occupant himself. Now tell me that isn’t putting your signature on your work of art.

No one was rude about it, but everyone was quite glad that our next point of interest was not a mosque. The Beyazıt Tower is an old fire watch tower built in 1828 by Aga Huseyin Pasa. Made of stone, it comes after two wooden fire towers on the same site were subsequently, and ironically so, all swallowed up by flames. In the olden days, fires all across the Bosphorus Strait, from the Golden Horn all the way to Yesilkoy, could be well spotted from this vantage point in the garden of Istanbul University. At 280 feet tall, the structure dominates the cityscape, and is still in use as a fire tower which is manned 24 hours a day. It is also used by the local meteorological service to report weather, since visibility has been greatly reduced due to air pollution. Colored lights fitted onto the tower are used to indicate weather conditions (e.g. red color indicates “rain”) as well as to guide ships sailing into the Golden Horn when the Ataturk and Galata bridges are closed off.

Our last stop of the day rejuvenated most of our group. One of the oldest markets in the world, the Grand Bazaar of Istanbul or the Kapalicarsi (“covered bazaar”) has more than 58 covered streets and more than 4,000 shops. Anywhere from a quarter to half a million visitors come here daily. I was freaking out on the inside when I saw the crowds. No one knew it but I was not pleased after the increasing number of impolite glares that we’d been receiving as the day wore on. It was nearly impossible to remain together as a large group but I simply was not going to break down into smaller ones with only a chaperone to ride herd. Our guide understood and picked a route that would take us passed areas more likely to catch the students’ interest and away from where only men shopped. I was forced to break our group down into gender-based numbers when most of our female students wanted to shop for textiles and clothing. I sent them with my other female security officer – someone trained by Polina that I’ve worked with before – and two female chaperones. The males were herded by Grover – who’d shown up at my plea for another security officer or two for our detail – and I as well as one of the fathers of the students.

The Grand Bazaar was built from 1455 to 1461 and has been open ever since. It is famed for its exquisite Turkish jewelry, silver decoration pieces, spices, Turkish delights (famous Turkish sweets), pottery and carpet shops. There were also plenty of leather goods, gold and diamond jewelry, as well as clothing here in rich supply. The bazaar is particularly famous for the “Turkish Evil Eye” – an amulet made of blue and white glass believed to ward off evil spirits. Almost every street had an “evil eye” stall, with many variations of the amulet being sold to tourists.

Originally the bazaar contained bedestens, which are domed structures used for storage, and was enlarged during the 16th century. After a major earthquake in 1894, the bazaar underwent a major restoration. Today, it contains two hammams (Turkish baths), two mosques, four fountains, as well as many cafes and restaurants. It is like a small city all on its own. There are countless frescoes on the many ceiling arches and ancient columns, some of which are centuries old. However, the main charm seems to lie in its chaotic organization. While it gave me ulcers, others seemed to find great hilarity and fun in the mass of humanity that seethed in every direction at once. I will say I made some good deals by being prepared to walk away if the seller did not agree with my asking price. When they saw me snap at one student in particular for offering a sum so low it was insulting, our guide took us to vendors he knew were used to dealing with Westerners.

Perhaps I shouldn’t have snapped at the boy but I told him we weren’t in a circus tent of machine-made Chinese tchotchkes in a Tijuana market but dealing with items handmade by real craftsmen. I told him to show some respect to the craftsman and the craft and he’d get a lot farther. Yes, I understand the art of a good deal and that these people were going through a bad economic time and willing to sell at a discount just to stay afloat but we weren’t just there as observers but as learners … not to mention we are supposed to spread economic cheer when we can.

By that time I think we all needed to return to the ship. One, we were loaded down with purchases. Two, several students were nearing overload. Our guide had been a good one and he didn’t disappoint with his last bit of help. He got us to a bus that dropped us off directly within the cruise port in plenty of time to avoid the hassle of the curfew and lockdown. I asked Grover to help me with the tipping.

“Good idea asking him if he wanted it in Lira or some other currency. Him and the bus driver asked if we could just give them a bit of whatever we had. Hell, they seemed happy to get a tip. Apparently rumor has it that the B never tips.”

I was offended enough to make Grover mention “fuzzed up kittens” which made me feel more like a sharp clawed lioness but I digress. I’ve always made certain that our group tips whether it is our guide, drivers, or where we dine. I always include it on my expense reports. I wonder if there is a way to find out if other groups tip. I nearly asked Polina but lost my chance when there was a fight in the cafeteria.

I was dragging by the time I got back to the cabin. I knew Vit would be on shift so I wasn’t exactly enthusiastic. Then I got a text.

“You are back on board.”

“Yes. I was about to let you know I made it to the cabin. I think I’m going to eat in tonight.”

“You do not feel well?”

“Just tired of people. No big deal.”

“I would be there with you but these damn bilge pumps are turning problematic again. Look on the bed. I left something for you. And perhaps?”

“Yes?”

“Can you bring me water bottles in about an hour?”

“Of course. I’ll get them now.”

“After you look in the boxes.”

Hm. Boxes. As in plural. I got the door locked and turned and … blinked. The man is borderline crazy. He bought several Turkish lamps. I was afraid of unboxing them all the way to appreciate them as I’m not sure I could pack them as well to get them ready for shipping. I found out after taking him his requested water … as well as some electrolyte drink … that he has plans to add wiring to some so they can be used with electrical lighting. They are very colorful and unique, fragile looking but very sturdy.

Perhaps things are getting back to normal between Vit and I. I have vowed to myself to be more thoughtful. Perhaps I’ve simply been rather self-involved. Not like that hasn’t happened before. But I’m married now and it is past time to give up the kind of behavior I got away with as a singleton or child. There is enough craziness going on in the world without me adding to it.

 

[Kathy in FL]

Chapter 130: May 23 – Istanbul (2)

I’m exhausted. Today was another walking tour. Where has my stamina gone? I need to get back into the gym or at the very least back to yoga. I mentioned as much to Vit and he mentioned that he wouldn’t mind getting back into such a routine if I would go with him. There was an odd tone to his voice that had me glancing up at him from where I was doing some stretches on the floor. The tips of his ears grew red, but he didn’t really explain. I need to figure out what is going on. Vit is a man of the world, what on earth could cause him embarrassment like that?

We were up early. I didn’t even bother going back to bed once Vit came in from his shift. We showered together and afterwards he nearly melted into the mattress and into a deep sleep. I on the other hand was feeling wired. I gathered our laundry and took care of that before returning to the cabin and dressing to leave.

Vit mumbled, “I will meet you on your return and we will dine together.”

“We will try. I know you are an important man and get called in often.”

I could sense he meant to say something to that but all that came out was a snore. To avoid getting the giggles I quickly and quietly left and headed to security to see if there was anything – or anyone – in particular that I needed to watch for.

“Nii,” Polina said while sucking on coffee so strong it smelled like tar. “Concerning the negotiating you did with the guide …”

Uh oh. “Someone complained?”

“Nii. Or should I say not precisely. It appears that you were correct. There are rumors to the effect that our people are not spreading the ‘economic cheer’ as you call it.”

“Er …”

“Do not worry. Just be aware that some may make something of nothing. Admin has changed the suggestion to a requirement for those utilizing on shore services. Some are saying that tipping should not be a requirement in case of poor service, and some are deflecting and blaming their support staff for not taking care of the issue.” She shrugged. “Your name has been kept out of it but of course some will make assumptions, true or not. I am sorry that I cannot assign more personnel, but we are shorthanded for some of the other gladhandles that are occurring.”

I tried not to laugh at her misunderstanding of glad-handing. It is one of the bright spots of my day to catch Polina in a silly word trap which she frequently finds herself in without even realizing it.

The morning did not get much better. It started raining even before I could get all the students through the security check and off the ship. Then the walk down the pier was a mess as we tried to stay out of the way of the commercialization. Finally, we got to our first activity which was a boat tour of the Bosporus.

The boat we got on was not appealing. The décor and seating were bland and uncomfortable, more like an outdated ferry than a tour boat. The coffee and tea served by the café was vile and that was being polite, and the itinerary listing all major shoreline landmarks blasted loudly over the speakers in Turkish, ensuring that most everyone could not understand a word. I did what I could to translate for the students, but I started getting questions from tourists as if I were somehow the guide for the entire deck. Oh my. Yet this simple morning cruise became one of the more satisfying excursions I completed in Istanbul. I even adored the mischievous seagulls that followed the boat waiting for customers to throw bread in the air … a wicked habit in my opinion. Seagulls normally make me think of flying rats – I am from Florida after all – but these seemed to be out to entertain us like a troop of street performers. They were ultimately friendlier than many Turks that I met.

On the banks of the Bosporus stand hundreds of ancient and modern landmarks that cannot be ignored. We also passed numerous neighborhoods, all respected by locals for one characteristic or tradition. The Bosporus is a 31-kilometre strait of water that acts as the boundary between East and West. It has always and still is, an important strategic point for governments, empires, business, and warfare. Allied powers fought for it in the First World War causing many casualties at the Gallipoli campaign. The Russians launched many operations to gain control of it during the latter part of the19th century and presently many oil tankers from the East travel through there on their way to the West. Transportation plans by the government are always on the books and the latest project is to build another suspension bridge over the strait that connects the two continents.

The first stop was Ortakoy. It is a beautiful mosque located right in front of the Bosporus Bridge. It's an absolutely stunning work of art designed by the Armenian architect Nikogos Balyan on the orders of Sultan Abdulmecid. The square outside the mosque is often busy as there are lots of cafes and restaurants in the area. Ortakoy is particularly famous for "Kumpir" (baked potatoes with various toppings and fillings) and waffles. We were lucky that we were able to get a taste and even had access to some handmade souvenirs thanks to the ingenuity of one of the captain’s brother in laws.

Next, we cruised to Kucuksu Palace. Again, it was designed by Nikogos Balyan on the orders of Sultan Abdulmecid and completed in 1857. It's situated in the Kucuksu neighbourhood on the Asian side of Istanbul and can be seen from its best angle from the Bosporus. The Palace was restored in 1994 so we saw the luxurious and ornate interior for ourself.

We returned to the boat for snacks and refreshments on the way to Rumeli Hisari Fortress. The Fortress was built to prevent anyone from entering the Bosporus and reaching Constantinople to help the Byzantines during the Ottoman conquest. We were allowed to get out and explore the fortress which has great views over the Bosporus.

The Yali houses are some of the most impressive and dominant shoreline landmarks. Built during the Ottoman Empire, their architectural styles blend discreetly into the scenery. Often made from wood, they were the summerhouses of rich Ottomans and notable properties include the yali of Huseyin pasha built in 1699 and the Erbilgin Yalisi, listed as the fifth most expensive house in the world when it went on sale for 100 million USD. Many yali houses are still occupied and in front of them sit luxury yachts, owned by rich people who can afford a property on one of the most important water straits in the world.

The Maiden’s Tower is in the middle of the Bosporus looking out onto two continents and thousands of years of human history. Since the times of Ancient Greece this little tower has served as a fort, a crypt, a tower for commercial observation, a tax collection center, a lighthouse, a quarantine hospital, and even made a cameo in the James Bond film, "The World Is Not Enough". At twenty-five centuries old, some would call this an aging maiden, but it's still an attractive one. The lighthouse is still in working order, but on the first floor, a restaurant is operating, and on the top, up six flights of stairs, is a coffee shop providing sweeping views over the Bosporus Strait. We made a quick stop – there were tourists on the cruise with us – but it was mainly for the view since we had already partaken of refreshments. Apparently, the tower has a heroic-cum-romantic story linked to it, and even today people use it for marriage proposals, in the hopes that their bond to last as long as the lighthouse.

One of the tourists on the boat was a professor on holiday and he heard me translating and then answering the students’ questions as best I could. When he found out we were from the B he was fascinated, and I answered his questions as I could without giving away too much private info. In exchange he happily enjoyed the polite audience the students made as he helped with the remaining sites.

Built in 1580 by famous Imperial Architect, Mimar Sinan, the single-domed Şemsi Pasha Mosque is a masterpiece of Ottoman design. Although rather small in size compared to other of Sinan's creations, it is one of the most attractive constructions in the city, its scenic waterfront setting making it a popular spot for visitors. For those who love architecture, the transition between seashore, pier, and the qibla wall is seamless and fantastic. The tomb of the Grand Vizier for whom the mosque was constructed, Şemsi Pasha, is located on the grounds, in a private cemetery adjacent to a pretty garden. Furthermore, the precinct is enclosed by an L-shaped madrasa where people come to study and research, and a seawall with grill-windows to the north, giving the impression that one is in a picture gallery looking at framed Bosphorus seascapes. Interestingly enough, Şemsi Pasha specifically asked for a place where birds will not fly, and consequently the mosque – located at the intersection of winds coming from the north and south – has earned a reputation of being "bird-free". Due to the shape of the minaret, it is also known as "the Asparagus Mosque" among locals.

The Mihrimah Sultan Mosque is considered one of the most beautiful sites in Üsküdar and indeed in wider Istanbul, with its proximity to the iskele (pier) lending it the nickname of 'Iskele Mosque'. Since it was built on a raised platform, the grounds provide a great vantage point from which to observe the pier area as a whole, complete with all its hustle and bustle. The mosque itself is the first of two built by Mihrimah Sultan, the most favored daughter of Suleiman the Magnificent and the wife of Grand Vizier Rüstem Pasha. Built between 1546-48, it too was designed by architect Mimar Sinan, whose blend of Ottoman and Byzantine architecture can be seen in the slender minarets, as well as the arrangement of the dome and semi-domes. The colorful cut glass windows inside convey a sense of happiness and femininity.In the absence of space for a full courtyard, Sinan added a roof to cover the ablution fountain, giving the construction yet another element of individuality. As a place of worship, the mosque is still in use today.

After decades of neglect, Fethi Pasha Korusu (City Park) was renovated by Istanbul's municipal government. Located on one of the hills that descend from the Asian side of the city, the site honors Fethi Ahmet Pasha, one of the governors of the Ottoman Empire during the 19th century.

Also from the “Asian Side” we observed the Bosporus Bridge. The bridge is modern and scenic and links Asia and Europe across the Bosporus Strait. It opened in 1973, marking the 50th anniversary of the Republic of Turkey. At that time it was the 4th-longest suspension bridge in the world and cost over $200 million to build. Traffic has become so dense and communications between Asia and Europe so important, however, that the cost was recovered in less than 10 years. Before this symbolically and economically important "First Bridge" – as it is also known – was built and designed by British civil engineers, everyone depended on ferry boats to go to the Asian side of the city. Today, around 180,000 vehicles pass daily in both directions, with almost 85% being cars. In 2007, a computerized LED lighting system was installed to illuminate the bridge at night, now being used to create a colorful light show each evening.

It was at that point that our boat docked and we got off only to find that our guides never showed up. Some of the chaperones were all for immediately returning to the ship but the kids were starving. Our new friend the professor had his wife call her mother and in no time we were being herded down a street and into a family-owned restaurant for a delicious lunch. The kids wanted to help but the old man who I presumed was the grandfather of the professor’s wife instead wanted to see them learn some Turkish folk dance steps. The genders dance separately but it was quite fun and I took lots of pictures and videos.

The meal was perfect. The first course was a lentil, tomato or chicken soup followed by grilled meatballs with fresh green salad or bean salad. For dessert there was a choice of rice pudding, Baklava, Figs with cream, Semolina halva (sesame seeds with honey or sugar) with ice cream, or Revani (semolina cake soaked in light syrup).

Afterwards I used Grover and the Professor to address the old man and give him our thanks. There was a wedding of a relative happening that night and the students wanted to participate by giving a traditional gift. Many of them had “gold” coins left over from their two days and they combined them all and dropped them into a box … similar to a money tree that used to be popular at weddings in the States. It is a way to help a young couple start life on their own … and pay their first bills.

After doing our share to clean up after ourselves we chose to walk back to the B rather than try and wait for a bus to be sent for us. Vit surprised me by being at the bottom of the gangway. I got a look at his stoic expression and realized he was irritated at something but it turns out it was not at me and he was sorry that I had thought so, but we didn’t have that conversation until after I’d turn the students back over and turned in my report to Polina.

We were walking the deck during sailaway and he said, “I am glad to be leaving.”

“Did … um … something I do …?”

“What? Nii. A former shipmate was making overtures. He’d heard from someone else that I was onboard. He thought I was working for Baird and could get him a job. His calling was … incessant … and he refused to believe that I could not get him a position.”

Knowing Vit’s dislike of that type of opportuning I said, “That was rather rude.”

“Yes. And now I am away and he cannot reach you.”

The non sequitur caught me off guard. “Me? Er … why me?”

Vit shook his head. “He sought to get you to help him with his case.”

Mystery solved, I snorted. “Good luck with that. He either gets a job on his own merits or he doesn’t get a job. And now that I know you are not angry with me, do you wish to eat in the cabin or otherwise?”

“I know it has been a long day but … would you play for me in the cabin?”

“Of course.”

We had a pleasant meal though a bit quiet, then I played for him. He asked for some of the old music I played for him before we married and asked if I minded that he look at the pictures on my phone. I told him of course not. He seemed surprised but after a bit sad that there were no pictures of me. I told him, “No. I only take selfies when we are together.” He was in a strange mood. Almost sad. He has gone off to take his evening shift and I have backed up the pictures from my camera to make room in the memory. I’ll also set them to upload to my external hard drive and to my private cloud storage while I do some translations. I’m trying to clear some time tomorrow so we can be together on our day off.

 

[Kathy in FL]

Chapter 131: May 24 – The Dardanelles (Cruising – Sunday)

I would like to say that Vit and I spent the entire day together. Not so much. Vit made plans. Without me. His explanation is that he thought I would be working all day in Baird’s office but something rings hollow with his story. Or maybe I am just imagining it. I am trying not to let my feelings be hurt. Especially since I’ve been trying to do as many translations at night so that we could spend Sunday together.

He did try and change plans, but I told him not to. He was working out with some of his crewmates. Instead I asked him if he minded that I come along.

“You would do this?” he asked like he was surprised.

“We talked about getting to the gym more.”

A little hesitant he said, “It will be quite busy and you have not reserved time on the machines.”

I shrugged. “So I won’t use a machine. I’ll stay out on deck and do yoga or shadow sparing.”

Seeming suddenly quite pleased for some reason he said, “Nii. I will spar with you after we warm up. It has been too long.”

And that’s what we did but instead of going to the club with the men tonight, despite being invited, I opted to work on my correspondence which I am behind on, and prepping for the next fourteen days which will be touring Greece. There is only one sea day the entire time, but I understand from my orders that not all of them will be student excursions. I also got an earful from Barney who is getting irritated that Security gets so much of my time when there are translations to be done. Trying to be a peace maker I told her I would do some in the evenings when possible. She’s another one that seemed surprised I was willing to be flexible. I am going to check the calendar to see if it is a full moon or something. I don’t know what is going on with some people.

Speaking of full moons and strange behavior, Vit just came in with a bandage across his nose and tape on his knuckles. He went straight into the bathroom. I hope he doesn’t think I am so blind I would miss something like that.

 

[Kathy in FL]

Chapter 132: May 25 – Rhodes, Greece (Part 1)

We only have two students in their final year of secondary school. They have been excused from the remainder of this academic year and will, from this point forward until they leave the ship, be allowed to apprentice in the engineering section. Vit is not especially enthusiastic to have to babysit them. So I told him, “Then don’t. It is an apprenticeship, not preschool.”

“Their parents are diplomats,” he said, trying with difficulty to hide a sneer. I knew what that meant. The parents would try and interfere and make sure that their children got preferential treatment. What they need to do is allow their children to become adults under the guidance of people such as Vit who wouldn’t lead them astray but focus their energies into constructive outlets and training.

Thinking quickly I said, “So? If they wish to be engineers they should take advantage of the rigorous training they will receive at the hands of the professionals aboard the Bonhoeffer. I’m sure that if they meet standards someone from the program would be willing to write them glowing letters of recommendation that would carry much more weight than a friend of the family.”

He looked at me and then chuckled. “You will make a sneaky matir.” [mother]

I know he didn’t mean to make me sad, but he sensed it nonetheless. He wrapped his arms around me from behind. “Do not give up hope Kokhana. There is time.”

“I know. We’re still young and all of the other blah, blah, blah we’ve told ourselves.” I cleared my voice and added, “You are going to be late and I don’t want that kind of irritation to be my fault on top of everything else.”

Vit winced and touched the bridge of his nose. “The fight was not your fault. Perhaps had I been able to hold my temper … but I could not let the words he said pass.”

“You didn’t throw the first punch.”

Vit growled, “I should have.”

Refusing to let him think otherwise I said, “Nii. Where he got off thinking that I’d even notice his existence is beyond me. The toad. I know his wife sent him a Dear John letter but that’s no excuse to be a complete ass like that.”

A stoic shrug was my reply. “Jealousy.”

“Yeah right. And get that look off your face Vit. I’ve heard the talk. I’m the Ice Queen or the Ice Bi …” I didn’t get to finish.

“Enough. I will not hear such talk. There are far too many idiots aboard this ship. Let us go so you can get your tea before dealing with today’s monkeys.”

I groaned theatrically before telling him, “Anything but monkeys. Please.”

He chuckled at the old joke and we did both get where we were going on time, but it was a near thing. Today we were in Rhodes, Greece. I should be used to it by now, but I really miss Vit’s presence on these excursions. It isn’t just a matter of wishing to enjoy the tours with him, but his presence always brought the Marchands in line when they seemed beyond my ability to reach. Thank goodness it was Tower with me today and not Grover. Grover would have simply chucked the bigger knuckleheads in a taxi and sent them back to the ship. Tower at least tried to reach them with humor. Although sending them back to the ship once or twice might be a better strategy at this point.

Just like the seniors left high school behind, the 8th years were promoted early. I do not see them as mature enough for this privilege and told Polina so. She looked at me like I was talking to the wrong person. I suppose she is correct, but I have grown uncomfortable with the idea of meeting with Mr. Parnell after the things his wife said. Perhaps I will ask her to set up the meeting and join us since she is familiar with the middle graders as she is a regular chaperone with that age group.

We started our long day quite early. Located between Turkey and Crete, this Dodecanese island of Rhodes has a little something for everyone, or so it seems from my reading of the tourist brochures. Over the centuries, Rhodes has been controlled by the ancient Greeks, the Romans, the Byzantines, The Order of the Knights of St. John, the Ottomans, the Italians, and now modern Greece resulting in a unique cultural identity. To really get an overview of the history of the island our first stop of the day was a walking tour in and around Old Town Rhodes. We saw way too much for me to include everything, but I will list out the highlights.

Ippokratous Square lies in the medieval walled city. In the center of the square stands an ornamental fountain, which, along with a grand staircase from the south west section, is the only remaining evidence of the Castellania, an important building constructed by the Knights Hospitaller in the 14th century. Just knowing that parts of the surrounding structures were left over from the 1300s was amazing. We entered the Old City by the Marine Gate. The square is very popular with locals and tourists alike, who enjoy coffee, dining or drinks from one of the many alfresco cafes and bars that are scattered around its periphery. I would have liked to stop and do more “people watching” while I drank a tea but we were on a schedule.

There are also several other cultural and historic sites on Ippokratous Square, including the Castellania Library, which is a treasure trove of ancient books and documents. We were given a very brief look at the interior before it opened to the public which was a treat in and of itself. The library is housed in Epavlis Mansion and features a music department and exhibition space along with the library tomes. It is also at Ippokratous Square that Sokratous Street, one of the most popular commercial streets on the island, begins.

The Marine Gate (also called St. Catherine’s Gate or Sea Gate), where we entered, is located south of Arnaldo Gate in front of the Commercial Harbor in Rhodes. It was erected by Grand Master Pierre d’Aubusson in 1478 as a means of defense against possible Ottoman attacks. The relief above the entrance depicts the Virgin Mary, Saint John and Saint Peter. It is an impressive gate, a work of art that also served a practical purpose, and still does.

Sokratous Street, as I said, is the most popular shopping area in Old Town Rhodes. The street is packed with numerous shops and is popular with the tourists. The colorful, vibrant atmosphere of this shopping mecca attracts crowds every day. And when I say crowds I mean wall-to-wall people. It was one of the few times I did not enjoy the day. I always feel on the ragged edge of panic when I can’t keep the students together and get a headcount that assures me someone isn’t lost or kidnapped. Most of the time the students cooperate – I remind them of San Francisco as necessary – but today the Year 8 students simply did not seem to have any self-discipline. I finally made a spectacle of them with the older students to remind them they were no longer in middle school, not the top of the food chain, and if they did not start behaving accordingly I would gather them up and ship them back to the B and they would remain on board henceforth. Maybe it would have been better if it had been Grover with me rather than Tower. We only have two girls from Year 8 but I swear it seems they make up most of the drama. The boys are smart enough to avoid them but not yet smart enough to know how to make themselves a part of their older male peer group. And I wish they would all manifest more thoughtfulness instead of thinking the universe revolves around them and time stops for their every whim.

The Archaeological Museum of Rhodes is located within the Old City in one of the buildings formerly occupied by the Knights Hospitaller. The building dates from 1440, when it was constructed by the Grand Master D’Aubusson. Rhodes has a long and fascinating history that stretches all the way back to classical times when the Colossus of Rhodes greeted visitors to the city. The Archaeological Museum of Rhodes houses many of the ancient artifacts that have been uncovered during excavations on the island. One of the best-known items from the museum’s collection is an amphora of Fikellura style dating from the 6th century B.C and featuring depictions of animals below the handles. An attic amphora shows the departure of a warrior, which reflects the constant conflicts of the period around the 6th century B.C. A grave stele of Krito and Timarista that has been dated to between 420 and 410 B.C shows two female figures wearing traditional clothing and embracing. A stone head of the god Helios provided interesting information about Rhodes’ Hellenistic period, or rather then display did. There are several rooms in the museum that are dedicated to specific sites on the island and feature fine statues and mosaics. And honestly, the number of items was so overwhelming that those are the ones that stand out in my memory, the rest is almost a blur.

The Church of Our Lady of the Castle is Byzantine and one of Rhodes most popular attractions. Built sometime in the 11th century, it was used as the Orthodox Cathedral of Rhodes under Byzantine rule and later a Latin Cathedral. In addition to the Byzantine features, there are also some Gothic elements that were added at a later date. When the Ottomans took over Rhodes from the Knights, the church was converted into a mosque, but fortunately, the original design of the construction was maintained. During Ottoman rule, it was called the Enterum Mosque and the bell tower was converted into a minaret. During Byzantine times, the church was a single domed and one-aisled structure. It was later expanded, under the tutelage of the Knights of Hospitaller, and the noteworthy bell tower was added. In the 14th century, a monastery was added to the church grounds. Within the grounds of the church there are also the remains of a Doric Temple of Athena Polias – this fascinating site features intricate carvings and should not be missed. The interior of the church has many frescoes and paintings that are hundreds of years old which pertain to different eras of its patronage.

The Street of the Knights is in upper Old Town. It is one of the most popular, famous, and historical streets in that part of the city. It was where knights lived and worked in years past. It was well restored by the Italians in 1913-1916. The street is straight, and tall buildings border either side. Knights used to live, pray and train in these buildings.

 

[Kathy in FL]

Chapter 132 - Part 2

The Palace of the Grand Master of the Knights of Rhodes is a palace that was built in the 14th century by the Knights of Rhodes, who occupied Rhodes from 1309 to 1522. After the island was captured by the Ottoman Empire, the palace was used as a fortress. The original palace was largely destroyed by an ammunition explosion in 1856. I had a difficult time imagining how big of an explosion it had to have been to have destroyed most of a palace. We aren’t talking delicate features either but thick block walls everywhere you looked. When the Kingdom of Italy occupied Rhodes in 1912, the Italians rebuilt the palace in a grandiose pseudo-medieval style as a holiday residence for Victor Emmanuel III of Italy and later for Benito Mussolini, whose name can still be seen on a large plaque near the entrance. On February 10, 1947, the Treaty of Peace with Italy, one of the Paris Peace Treaties, determined that the recently-established Italian Republic would transfer the Dodecanese to the Kingdom of Greece which happened in 1948. At that point, the Greeks converted the palace to a museum.

The Mosque of Suleiman in Rhodes is an immense pink-colored mosque that was built by the sultan in 1522 to celebrate the victory of the Turks over the Knights Hospitallers. The Knights had established themselves in Rhodes in 1307 and their possession of the island was confirmed by Pope Clement V in 1309. The newly crowned Ottoman sultan Suleilman, however, led naval attacks on Rhodes and the vastly outnumbered Knights fled, taking only what they could carry. As many conquerors are wont to do, this huge religious site was built over the remains of the destroyed Christian Church of the Apostles and it is the largest of all the mosques in Rhodes.

The building was re-constructed in 1808, following damage, and its striking minaret sadly had to be removed in 1989, as it was deemed unsafe. However, the remaining rose-colored stone exterior and classic Ottoman style is striking and adds to the ambiance of the Old City. The Mosque of Suleiman remains one of the major landmarks of the city.

The Medieval City of Rhodes is internationally recognized for its abundance of Byzantine, Crusade and Ottoman architecture and history. The medieval city is surrounded by a fortified wall that covers a surface area of 8,611,128 square feet and was built to protect Rhodes from attack by sieging foreign empires and corsairs who sailed the water of the Mediterranean and Aegean during the Middle Ages. The old city was fortified under the Knights Hospitallers who occupied Rhodes between 1309 and 1522. The massive city walls were long considered to be impenetrable, but they finally yielded to the Ottoman Turks at the beginning of the 16th century. Along the wall, there are several bastions and towers that can be visited. Each of them includes fascinating features and brings Rhodes’ ancient military history to life. There are cat walks and ramparts along the top of the city walls that were used by sentries keeping guard over the city and for defense during attack. Several students claimed that they were going to ask their parents to come back to Rhodes for the Wall alone..

It was at this point in our day that we caught a bus and headed down a road that would take us to Lindos. The students wolfed down the boxed lunches I had arranged for the day on the bus ride. Due to the crowds it would simply have been too difficult to eat at a restaurant or food stall with a group our size. The Lindos portion of our excursion was demanding, particularly for our younger and smaller Year 8’s. It was at that point that they realized they weren’t in middle school any longer and they were expected to behave and perform as an older student. That doesn’t mean they did, but they were getting the picture; particularly as the older students were putting them into the pecking order … and pecking hard when they felt it necessary.

But first we had an unusual stop to make. The Bee Museum run by the Pastidas Beekeeping Company of Dodecanese. From their website: See bees’ amazing world in transparent observation hives, the tradition and history of beekeeping in Rhodes, how honey is obtained (from the bee to our table). Learn everything about bees and their valuable products: honey, pollen, wax, propolis and royal jelly. Have a walk in the bees’ garden and learn the Rhodian herbs and flowers which bees visit. You can taste and buy bee natural products in the selling point of the Museum. Yes I know, perhaps a little silly but it provided an enjoyable transition activity. I bought a couple of post cards but I waited to purchase any honey, and I am glad that I did.

Next we stopped at the Village of Lindos. We started with a guided tour and then were able to walk down at our leisure. Down I say because we started with a hike up … really up. Lindos is located on a small peninsula on the east coast of the island of Rhodes. In ancient times, Lindos was one of six Doric towns known as Doric Heksapolis. The best way to get to know the history of the town is to visit the Acropolis of Lindos. Along the steep path to the Acropolis, you’ll see women selling famous Rhodian lace. At the top of the Acropolis, there is the temple of Athena Lindia from the 4th century BC which was considered to be the holiest sites of the ancient world, visited by Aleksander Macedonian (Alexander the Great) himself. From the hill, we also admired the famous St. Paul’s Bay, which is one of the places you will certainly see it on many postcards.

First we went to the Acropolis by climbing a steep path leading to the top of a 116-meter hill. I am told there are 195 stairs but I must admit I didn’t count them. All I know is that there were a lot of them and it was strenuous to make it to the top where we found the stunning ancient remains of the Temple to Athena Lindia and a 20-columned Hellenic stoa. On the way down we explored the village of Lindos, several times getting lost in the maze of narrow streets. There are many beautiful whitewashed Greek houses including old mansions dating back to as early as the 17th century. Pavements made of pebbled mosaic created from black and white smooth sea rocks called hohlaki are also impressive, not that easy to walk on but definitely impressive. Along the way there are many shops selling souvenirs; everything from handmade craft and Greek-inspired jewelry to super cheap Chinese knock off RV magnets. Near the bottom we visited the Church of Panagia with its stone campanile tower and 19th-century wall frescoes. The atmosphere was to some of us very touching with all the weight of the years of worship and prayers since it was built in 1300.

We finally made it back to the bus to find that we had one more stop, a gift from one of the Greek diplomats on the B. The students were excited though Tower and I looked at each other, not liking the last-minute change. It was called the Throne of Helios 9D movie: I’ll just copy from the brochure we were handed. A unique and modern entertainment center that combines a cinema hall, a thematic area, historical exhibits and screenings. It’s the best place to see and learn the history of Rhodes island. I knew what 3D movies were. I even knew what 4D movies were. I was skeptical of 9D movies. Tower said he’d wait out in the hall if I didn’t mind since he wasn’t a fan of having the feel of stuff run across the back of his neck and under his feet. I made a command decision and had him keep an eye on the doors.

I discovered that 9D means that viewers have the opportunity to watch films with special 3D visual and sound effects, artificial rain, winds, fire effects, bubbles and artificial earthquake through vibrations. It was … okay. The younger students loved it. The oldest of the students tolerated it. I think Edda spoke for some, including myself, by whispering “Meh” with a typical Italian shoulder shrug. It would have been better had the film been just a little longer, without trying to shove too much sensory effects into such a short period of time. From start to finish, including the displays you saw and experienced as you waited your turn for the movie, it took thirty minutes. All I could think was that I was glad I hadn’t had to pay for it.

It didn’t take long at all from that point to get back to the ship. Getting through security took a little longer because of all the students’ purchases. After I made it back aboard and finished my report for Polina, I headed to the cabin only to find a box on the bed.

“Vit?”

I looked to see if he was in the bathroom and that is when I spied a note taped to the door.

“Kokhana, they changed my schedule. I am very dratuye [irritated]. I hate these damn zustrichi [meetings]. Please do not wait to eat and eat more than the krolyk [rabbit] food. I do not expect you to wait up for me. I have no idea what time I will escape. On the bed is a surprise for you. And some for to go in the storage locker. Perhaps you will eat some ice cream with the spoon sweets. Vit”

Poor Vit. I know being an XO brings a great deal of responsibility and working hard is the job description, but I wish they would not mess with his schedule as much as they do. It seems he no sooner has his day planned than someone takes advantage of his flexibility. I hesitate to say it is not fair but why do I not hear of others complaining of not having a regular schedule? Then again, what do I know? I am not in company very much these days, at least not socially.

I opened the large box and could only blink for a moment before starting to pull things out. Several blocks of olive oil soap were the first items. I set the stronger scented bars aside to pack into a plastic container of some type but kept back a bar of neutral scented soap so that Vit and I could both use it in the shower.

The next items were bottles of Greek wine. One particular brand made me giggle. Hermes. There was another few bottles from the Emery label. I will have to see if Vit picked them for a particular reason or it they were recommended to him. There were also a few bottles of liqueur; a coffee anise flavored one and ouzo of course. Then came Vit’s “surprise.” They are called spoon sweets but essentially they are fruits (and some vegetables) boiled and preserved in syrup. Apple, cherry, melon, chestnuts, fig, citrus, watermelon, and strawberries are the flavors that I’d seen on the shelves in the tourist shops but Vit had also found eggplant and pumpkin flavors. I hope those last two are jokes for my brats because … ew.

I washed up and headed out to eat as he asked me to rather than make an issue of it. However, there was some type of trouble in the mess hall. An electrical failure on one side of the dining area made the other side horribly crowded. I went to the burger bar where the kids normally eat but it was closing early. The staff on duty knew me so told me to wait a moment and he’d use the leftovers he hadn’t sent to the cafeteria yet and make me a wrap. By the time I got a shake to take back to the cabin with me, the wrap was complete and I’ve been here in the cabin eating and working on my notes as well as looking over my orders for the next week.

Each day is a new port in Greece except for one sea day which I will spend in Baird’s office. I had hoped to spend Sunday with Vit but we are in the port of Athens and it looks like I’ll be security for a mixed group. I can’t ask Vit to spend his day off doing that. As I remember it, Athens is one of the few ports he does not like. I should stop journaling and get back to my notes. I want to try and wait up as long as I can even though Vit asked me not to. Even if we do nothing at least we can fall asleep together.

 

[Kathy in FL]

Chapter 133: May 26 – Patmos, Greece

Vit wanted to go to the movies. Okay, maybe not the movies exactly but he wanted to go out. And he wanted me to go with him. I would have preferred to stay in but Vit seemed to need to go out. Just because I didn’t, just because I didn’t understand why he did, doesn’t mean that I could just ignore his need. So, we went to the movies. I was all but melting into the chair I was sitting in and with it dark on the upper deck I was starting to nod off and then in my ear I hear, “Chief Dymtrus!”

My eyes shoot open and there stood the two new Year 8 female students. “Hello,” I responded trying to impose the idea that they needed to moderate their volume.

“Come tell our parents that we are not too young to join your excursions!”

I cleared my throat and looked apologetically at Vit before getting up and walking the two students away from the others so it wouldn’t interrupt the movie. Once we were away I said, “If you behave as rudely to your parents as you just did to my husband and the others I will say your parents are correct.”

“Huh?” one of them said.

The other said, “Cool it Dalia. She means we need to use our indoor voice and not interrupt the adults when they are relaxing.”

“Close,” I agreed. “However, if you wish, you can introduce me to your parents so that we can constructively deal with any concerns they might have.”

“Yes ma’am,” the first one said finally cluing into what her friend had been saying.

It wasn’t as bad as I had worried it might be and I directed them to Mr. Parnell and some of the high school teachers if they had any additional concerns. They could also get a referral from Security if that made them more comfortable. After their initial surprise they were relieved. I also reminded them that they could get a copy of the week’s schedule for review by going up to the education deck and requesting one from Mr. Parnell’s office. “We try and give parents a week notice for activities, but we also have to remain flexible in case of weather delays – which we’ve had very few – or other interruptions. But please, feel free to make inquiries and we will all do our best to help you adjust to having high school students. There is always a period of adjustment reactions for everyone concerned.”

By the time I got back to Vit my chair had been taken by someone else, a female someone else. Vit was looking extremely stoic.

“Excuse me, you are sitting in my seat,” I told the pretty socialite.

“Holding seats isn’t allowed,” she said coldly.

“I’m aware,” I told her with a Mona Lisa smile before pulling another folding chair from behind my back. “You’ll just need to move you and the chair you are sitting in. I’m going to sit beside my husband.”

“Who?”

That’s when my Cossack tried sneaking out and I simply moved her and the chair, much to her surprise, enough that I could add the chair I had and flop down beside Vit and prop my feet on the end of his lounger. There was dead silence except for Vit who was coughing as he’d taken a swig of Dos Equis only to have it go down the wrong pipe for some reason.

I leaned over and said, “Sorry.”

He meshed our hands and then raised them so he could kiss the back of mine before saying, “Ya ne.” [I am not.]

I ignored the others from there on out and watched the remainder of the movie. Once it was over I forced myself to stand up. When Vit didn’t I leaned down to see if he had fallen asleep. He wasn’t, but he also wasn’t far from it. “I am stuck to this chair,” he said as if surprised. I wondered just how many beers he’d had.

I snorted a laugh and helped pull him up while I grabbed the bucket of empty beer bottles where several had been sharing the ice. Vit was going to straighten the chairs but there were so many people waiting to take our spots for the second showing that we simply got out of the way, dropped off the empties on the end of the bar, and then headed for the cabin. We shared a shower and then Vit tumbled to the bed and was soon snoring. Unfortunately I was now awake and decided to journal until my endorphins settle.

Honestly I should be tired as well after the day we had in Patmos so I figure just writing will re-relax me and then I’ll climb in bed with Vit. Or not. He’s snoring again. Loudly. Which tells me that either that wasn’t the first ice bucket of beers or more than one of those beers had been his.

Patmos is the Greek holy island, even designated as such by the Greek Parliament in 1981. Initially, it was known as Letois after goddess Artemis, the daughter of Leto. It is also referred to as the Jerusalem of the Aegean and is popular among Greek orthodox people. The excursion today with the students was a little chopped up but interesting in its own way. Our first stop after being picked up from the pier was Skala Beach. We followed the coast road passing the South end of the island to the Convent of Evangelismos, which lays in a beautiful setting surrounded by well-kept gardens with a spectacular view over the bay of Kipi. The original chapel of St. Luke dates from 1613 but the Convent itself was founded in 1937. We had took a few moments to see a wonderful collection of frescoes painted by the nun Sister Olympia. This large Convent is a wonderful example of ecclesiastical architecture and houses an exhibition where examples of handicrafts made by the nuns can be purchased. Some of the students and chaperones did exactly that to support their Order.

Next came the old village of Chora. A short walk through the winding cobbled streets of Chora led us to the tiny Convent of Zoodochos Pigi built in 1607. On one side of the cobbled courtyard is the chapel, where we discovered an array of recently restored 17th century frescoes.

After two convents came a monastery. The Monastery of St. John to be exact. The roads to reach it were crazy, yet typical of the Greek isles. We wound our way through a labyrinth of atmospheric lanes turning this way and that until we reached the foot of the Monastery of St. John the Theologian built in 1088 AD. Here one can get a glimpse of monastic life and absorb timeless history through the magnificent ecclesiastical artifacts of its museum. Among the Monastery's treasures are frescoes of the founder Christodoulos and miracles of St. John, ancient documents dating from the 6th century, vestments, silverware and numerous icons including a work attributed to El Greco.

After a short coach ride, we arrived at the Cave of the Apocalypse - home to the birth of the Book of Revelation, the last book in the Holy Bible. In 95AD, at the time of the persecution of the Christians, St. John was exiled by Emperor Domitian to the Island of Patmos where the vision of the Revelation was revealed to him in this small cave which has now become a place of worship and an important destination for pilgrims. I have no idea why I had not put two and two together when I was reading over today’s schedule. Turned into a place of worship by the monk Christodoulos Latrinós in the 11th century the cave –on whose walls you can trace the fingerprints of St. John’s himself, is still open to the devout Christians. It is “cave” in name only these days with nearly every surface now covered with wood and gold painted religious art dating back to the Middle Ages in many cases. Derrick is thrilled with the pictures I was able to get for him. He is turning into quite the Biblical scholar, the same as Poppa.

There is also a shop that sells wine by the glass, bottle, or case which I and another chaperone took advantage of. I bought both the sweet red and the dry white, including a pair for Derrick that he will get once we get home. Thankfully our guide and driver did not object to our purchases and put them in the boot of the bus so they wouldn’t roll around. Of course it probably didn’t hurt that we purchased a bottle for each of them in gratitude.

Our last stop was a short one where we ate some Greek pastries to tide the students over until we could reboard the ship. Grikos Beach is a popular place. It is characteristically calm, natural tree shade and crystal-clear water. There is a small island just opposite Grikos bay that is populated by goats and their shepherds.

The sun had gotten to a couple of the students, perhaps they’ll remember their hats next time. Someone else who will remember their hat next time is Polina. I had just put the last student and chaperone through security and signed in the wine to be carried aboard when I saw her sitting in the corner of the terminal like she didn’t know what to do with herself. She wasn’t even on her phone or tablet despite the free wifi.

“Polina?”

“Hmph.”

Based on her tone I realized what must be afoot. “Ah, another forced day off and no Yegor to share it with.” Then I got a look at her face without her sunglasses on. “Oh my, and no one to remind you to wear sunscreen.”

“Watch it Little Sister,” she growled like a mother bear.

“When do you have to be back aboard?”

“Not for three hours,” she said dramatically.

“Good. Let’s go get some morozhenoye.” [ice cream]

She gave me a considering look. “You know where such can be purchased that does not require a bus ride?”

I nodded and chuckled before answering, “Had to pull several students away when they wanted it first thing this morning. Luckily the place was still closed. C’mon. You tell Yegor that he missed a treat.”

Once she agreed I texted Vit my plans and he texted back relieved that I had remembered to let him know. I proverbially rolled my eyes in his direction while he said, “Dessert first but save room for dinner and we will go together.” He also let me know he had a couple more hours to finish his current project.

And that’s what happened today. Fairly good day overall and perhaps it has merely been my imagination with Vit, or it was stress, or something. At least things appear to be smoother between us.

 

[Kathy in FL]

Chapter 134: May 27 – Naxos, Greece

I am paying for my late night and Vit is paying with a hangover, not from me but from the Dos Equis. He is not normally a beer drinker but that is what the others were drinking and I think he did not take it into account. He was very stoic this morning and then got growly and claiming it was ridiculous, that he was no green teenager to have a sore head from a few beers. I reminded him that he has been working very hard and long hours and was doubtless run down. I suggested that he start taking Vitamin D and B’s but before I could get much further than that in my plans he kissed me silent and said that he will simply use more sense from here on out. Hey, whatever works. Although taking Vitamin B’s might not be a bad idea given the amount of stress he is under. If I tell him he isn’t a kid any longer I’m not sure it would go over very well so I’ll work on some other way to approach it.

Today we were in Naxos, Greece known for something called Kriton liquor. It is a citron liqueur made from the fruit and leaves of the citron tree, which is similar to the lemon tree but stronger and slightly different in taste. Kitron comes in three varieties. The green variety is sweeter and contains less alcohol. The yellow variety is the strongest and has the least sugar. Clear Kitron is somewhere in between. The drink was briefly fashionable during the early 1980s, but is difficult to find today outside Naxos due to a shortage of citron trees. The first distillery was established in 1896 in the village of Halki. Vit asked if possible for me to buy a case of it. A case of each. Oh. My.

I knew I was in trouble with that request so I called who else? Henry. The man is a wizard when it comes to pulling things like this off. He seemed rather gleeful. When I remarked on it he said Mr. Baird is a fan of the stuff and it gave him the perfect excuse to get a deal going. I left him to it after asking if there was anything that I could do for him in return. He said he’d think on it. Apparently he and Barney have an anniversary coming up and she’s a bit strange about gifts and such.

Naxos is the classic white village of Greece, and many locals still live in the Old Town making for an authentic Greek experience. Naxos Old Town is full of history, and our guide said you can easily see most of the historic sites in this area in a day. I believe him. The Kastro part of Old Town was our first stop.

There is a hidden elevator you can take to get to the Kastro but our guide said climbing the stairs the way locals do is the better and more authentic experience. I don’t know about authentic but it certainly was a work out. The Archeological Museum of Naxos is located in the Kastro area and is housed in a 17th-century Venetian building and has five floors of artifacts. We did a quick tour because anyone with any sense of history could have spent days in there if they had wanted to but we didn’t have the time. Right on the edge of the Old Town is the Mitropolis Museum. This museum is the ancient site of Naxos town. It is an open air museum, but you must go down some stairs to get to it as it is below street level.

I’m sure the students (and a couple of the chaperones) would have been happy to spend the remainder of the day shopping and eating their way through Old Town but we had a bus to catch and a boxed lunch to eat. First we crossed the island to its northern part and the west. There we visited the restored Demeter’s temple in Sangri from circa 530 B.C. and the museum attached to it. The site was still a ruin, but it was like someone had taken a broken Lego set and tried to piece it back together enough so you could recognize what it had originally been. Originally built in the 6th century BC, the temple was originally dedicated to the goddess Demeter but was later turned in a place of worship for Christians before being destroyed by the Arabs in the 6th century AD. A curator at the museum helped the students understand the layout of the site. He was also good enough to set up our next stop.

A visit at Apeiranthos, a picturesque mountain village with a beautiful name meaning plenty of flowers, gave us the chance to see the famous marble village and shop in local traditional shops. The village sits precariously on a hilltop. We parked at the top and from there starts a largish street on which you can find the impressive Church of Panagia Apeirathitissa, one of the oldest churches of the island and houses some fine and valuable icons. There are a number of cafes and taverns all along the street as well all of which have a magnificent view overlooking the town into the valley. The architecture in this town is very interesting and unique, with the Venetian influence clear. One can see houses with coats of arms above their doors and there are also some ornate balconies on view. There is a windmill in ruins situated above the village and there is also a dilapidated Venetian tower. As you walk around the streets you notice the marble under your feet as well. All very atmospheric.

Next, as the bus headed north to Apollonas so that we could see the remnants of old emery mines and their machinery. Emery is a type of rock that is crushed to make abrasive powder. It is what emery boards (aka nail files) were originally made from. While in that area we saw the 10.5–meter tall Kouros Statue which is considered to be a personification of God Dionysus.

Our final stop was a traditional olive press museum where I bought a couple more bottles of olive oil and balsamic vinegar to have in our cabin for snacks of bread and dip. That’s actually what most of our dinner was made of … bread dipped in either olive oil and vinegar or in hummus. The rest was made up of a plate of cheese, fruit, and thin sliced sausage. Vit is tired, as am I. I think we will make an earlier night of it than we normally do.

 

[Kathy in FL]

Chapter 135: May 28 – Mykonos, Greece

I am on Greek overload and this is only the fourth port in a twelve-port calendar of stops. Thankfully tomorrow is a sea day and I can recover somewhat. The sun reminds me a great deal of home, so much so that I am getting a little homesick. On the other hand, I’m grateful not to be in the middle of the drama going on there but more on that later.

We arrived early and had to transfer to the island via boat. Our first destination was Gioras Wood Medieval Mykonian Bakery. Yum, yum, yum. I purchased a box of assorted pastries with the intent to split them between Vit, Polina, Yegor, and myself later in the day. Good thing as the electrical problem from the other night returned, or the “fix didn’t last” or whatever, and was on both sides of the mess hall this time. Everyone did get fed but it took a while since they only had the grill to work from.

After the bakery we caught a ferry to Delos Island. Upon arrival at Delos, our guide issued tickets for the archaeological site to the group members. We started at the Agora of the Kompetaliasts and were treated to a guided introduction to the mythological, prehistorical, and historical background of the island.

I’ve been blessed to see a lot of ancient ruins, but Delos is something special. We explored the narrow streets of the Hellenistic City of the 4th century BC and everywhere you looked it there were simply more ruins. The impressive house of Dionysus has exceptional mosaics, well preserved marble columns and amazing wall paintings just to name a few of the featured highlights of a rich man's house. A short way beyond that we admired Cleopatra with her statue decorating its entrance. After a short stop at the house of the Trident, we reached the Theatre of Delos and the public cistern of the city. That was the end of the route in the urban side of the city but from there we strolled down the main street to return to the market and the Sanctuary zone. The Stoa of Phillipe, the donations of ancient celebrities, the Propylaea, the Colossus of the Naxians and the Temples of Apollo were other monuments we admired before stopping in front of the Sacred Lake and the eternal Naxian Lions. The originals of the Naxian Lions reside in different places around the world but the reproductions on display looked like the real things and exactly like I’ve seen in every history book since I was old enough to crack one open.

The ferry ride back gave the students a brief rest, but once we docked, we were back up and running. First it was back to Old Town Mykonos. As we approached the town, we skirted a bay of clear turquoise water lined with restaurants, bars and shops. Fishing boats back from the day’s catch are moored in the shallows and whitewashed houses were perched on the hillside like little boxes. Agios Nikolaos Church, the tiniest of blue-domed churches, sits almost on the water, its flags fluttering on the breeze. Its pristine white-washed walls are the perfect contrast to the cobalt-blue of the sky.

We walked past the bay and up a hill and we came to the most famous and most photographed of Mykonos’ churches. Paraportiani Church is a small pyramid-shaped structure made up of four churches built asymmetrically together in varying architectural styles. This pretty church has a bell-tower, a dome and is crowned with crucifixes.

We continued walking away from the port until we arrived in what is known as Little Venice. The waterfront is lined with rows of 18th century fishing houses with wooden balconies that hang out over the sea. The houses, with direct access to the sea, originally belonged to shipping merchants but now house an area of cafes, restaurants, bars and shops. Tables are set up all along the water’s edge for outdoor dining and I’m told is to die for at sunset. I’m not sure how intimate a meal can be however when tourists are constantly passing by your table through the tight quarters.

From Little Venice it is a short walk up the hill to the iconic Mykonos Windmills. The Kato Mili which stand sentry at the top of the hill were built by the Venetians in the 16th century. Originally the straw-topped mills with wooden sails were used for milling flour. Nowadays one houses a museum, and another can be rented for short stays. There are around a dozen of these windmills on the island but the ones at that location are the most famous.

We came back to our pick up/transfer point by way of the back alleys of Mykonos. There were some very expensive shops back there, bed and breakfasts, a few churches, homes, and cats draped over everything. I wasn’t inclined to give anyone time to stop and shop given the prices but I got a call that our departure was to be delayed an hour so I took them to the more reasonable priced shopping area in Old Town and I gave them extra time there. However, I asked various shop keepers if they minded our school group prior to entering and most of them seemed to appreciate the good manners I was trying to show. A few were your typical crankies but only one or two and those were easy to ignore.

Back on the ship I dispersed the students to their parents, paying particular attention that the Year 8 students got where they were supposed to go, and that’s when I found out about the mess hall from Vit who had met my return. When Vit more than approved of my plan with the pastries he added to it by fetching a bottle of wine and calling Yegor to try and persuade Polina to join us.

Yegor was jovial when he spotted the box of pastries and said, “Ah, then it was a good thing that I bring crackers and caviar. What did you bring wife?”

“It sounds like you’ve already gotten into the wine. You know I cannot cook.”

“Eh? That never stops you,” Yegor said with a laugh.

“True,” she said with a grin. “But for today there is no mess for you to clean up. But I did bring cheese. Maximillian owed me.” She winked at Yegor and both he and Vit laughed. I didn’t get the joke but let it go. If it was important they would have explained it.

We ate our picnic in an out of the way corner on the top deck. It was a bit windy, but better wind from the sky than the wind from the backside so many people were blowing in anger regarding the mess hall shut down.

Tomorrow I will be in Mr. Baird’s office all day. I hope that Barney is in a better mood than she has been lately. I don’t get to pick and choose my assignments. I’m not intentionally causing her problems. Perhaps I imagined a camaraderie there in the beginning that did not exist. Just one more situation I perhaps did not see the reality of and must now deal with. There are days when I feel so out of touch with those that I thought held a place of importance. I am out of touch with my siblings as well.

Barbie’s daughter ran away and they found her with a man. It wasn’t statutory rape but it was close, they had gone across the street from the motel to get something to eat and the motel manager had called the police when he recognized the car tags from an Amber Alert. Barbie is trying to get her into counseling but it is difficult to find the right one for someone that age, especially when they don’t want to be in counseling. My brother in law is ignoring all of it and now on top of everything else Barbie is thinking of separating unless everyone agrees to go into family counseling. I’m concerned and don’t know if blackmail is exactly the healthiest way to navigate those waters, and yet I understand and agree with Barbie’s motivations. What a mess.

Reggie, who helped Barbie to see the light, is angry at his cousin for refusing to take the proffered olive branch and get herself some help. Benji isn’t much better because he thinks of Lena and worries his cousin will choose the same path. As a result Derrick is playing Switzerland which isn’t helping anyone and Angelia is about ready to chuck several people in the Ocean because she has her own hands full since the winery is proving even more successful than she and Tal were prepared for, and her kids that moved home because they couldn’t make it on their own aren’t exactly happy about having to help with the family business until they can go back to be self-supporting. Devin is finally dating someone new and is so afraid to screw it up that he is moving so slow that might be the result anyway. Dylan is hip deep in more 007 crap than I want to think about. And about the only thing everyone agrees on is poor Charlie … his marriage and kids are about to break his heart. And I’m not there for anyone because I am on the other side of the world having an “adventure.”

If they only knew. I mean yes, it’s an adventure but …

Forget it. Change the things I can, accept the things I can’t, and pray for the wisdom to know the difference. Oh, if only.

 

[Kathy in FL]

Chapter 136: May 29 – At sea

I know I need to write but I always feel at a loss what to on days such as this. It was … normal-ish. Or as normal-ish as any day has been since I followed Vit to this new life and work. At the same time the very fact that it was normal-ish began to fill with me trepidation as the day wore on. Why must I have the feeling that the other shoe will soon drop, or is late dropping, or something of that sort.

Barney wasn’t around much so while I did the translations in Mr. Baird’s office I didn’t have to defend myself from her snarky barbs. Everyone left me alone in fact. Normally people “drop by” to drop off paperwork or what have you and then stay a few minutes for a little “around the water cooler” talk which more often than not is rife with innuendo and what not that I am so tired of having to deal with that it makes me want to throw something. And Mr. Baird’s oh-so-happy is more TMI than I have any intention of getting into.

My world is full of acronyms. PDA, SOL, TMI, CTA, ROI, AFAIK, BTAIM, BTW, DYK, FTFY, FOMO, FYI, FTW, H/T, LMK, NSFW, MTFBWY, and on and on. Some of these things are so old they creak. And don’t even get me started with the way the translation machine will sometimes make a mess when it runs across these ridiculous combination of letters. Just the other day I got a note from Mr. Baird that started with EIL5. What? It took me forever to understand he meant for me to explain it to him like he was five-years-old; “explain it like I’m .” Oh please. That’s worse than when your older brats try and “stay relevant” and communicate with you in what they consider popular slang terms. I was in college and told them if they ever did that again I wouldn’t be answerable for the consequences. They didn’t know what they were saying and some of it … no, never mind, even the memory is embarrassing.

I don’t know what on earth I have to complain about or be nervous about. Even Vit has been “normal” today rather than stoic and difficult to read. Maybe I’ve gotten so used to being stressed that on the day I have no reason to be my brain can’t compute. This is … bizarre. I’m going to take a bubble bath and get over myself.