Story Veta (Book 1) (complete)

[Kathy in FL]

World Cruise Day 179: Feb 26 – Cruise the Java Sea

Java (tomorrow), sea day, sea day, then Brunei, Malaysia, sea day, then the Philippines. That is as far as Vit and I have gotten comparing shore excursions. You’d think on a sea day there would be all the time in the world, but I had Frankie all day today doing lessons and educational activities – Madam had virtual meetings with her reps back home most of the day, leaving her too tired for trivia games tonight. And Vit had Nicholas training … and trying to find out what his odd mood this morning was about. Vit says he thinks he knows but it will take more than one day to help him. Since he said no more than that I must deduce that it is some male thing or other.

Today we sailed the Java Sea. There was a history lecture on how Dutch merchant ships frequently traveled this area in the 17th and 18th centuries. We also had rijsttafel with the evening meal, a rice dish adopted by the Dutch from this area and still popular in The Netherlands today. I’m growing a little concerned at how often Vit is resorting to antacids. I’m not sure if it is stress, diet, or both. I do know he needs to lay off the vodka when he is with the men in the evenings, at least until his stomach settles down. This stuff he does for Dylan may also be part of the problem. I don’t know what kind of information gathering he is doing but it must be important if Dylan … no, I’m not getting involved with that unless asked to. Vit or Dylan will say something if I can help.

While Frankie did his lessons I went over my notes, filed the postcards from the last couple of days, continued to organize the pictures I am uploading, tried to decide what to put in the trunk and what I will need to carry on the return flight, and took care of family correspondence.

Some good news, some not, and some simply is what it is. The flu is still going strong. Christine wrote that they even closed several public schools in Florida trying to break the chain of infections. I think her intentions were to let me know that she was keeping Reggie and Benji at home, not to control them, but to control them from being exposed to the flu. Reggie gets it but is still morose. Benji is oblivious but seems intentionally so because he doesn’t like people asking him, or those he is with, about Lena. Social media is helping but only so much. The kids are feeding off themselves a bit. They are also trying to find ways to break curfew for a meet up. It caused the flu to spread in families that had been infection free up until that time and it is that situation that finally brought about Reggie’s compliance. He became more worried for Derrick than he did for his social life.

The news we get on board says that for whatever reason this flu is much more vicious in the States, Canada, and Mexico than it was/is in other countries. Some say it is because too few people got the flu vaccine this year, and of those that did about half the vaccines seem to be ineffective which means there may have been an additional mutation to the virus by the time it made it to the Western Hemisphere. The science is still out on that, but it seems to be a pretty big deal whatever the cause.

I got online and was shocked to see the statistics. The homeless population, pregnant and nursing mothers, nursing homes and assisted living facilities, schools (secondary and post-secondary schools the worst), and staff at medical facilities are all being hit hard. Congregate living facilities like residential mental health facilities, prisons, and juvenile detention centers are also suffering a higher than normal infection rate in their staff and residents. The fatality rate has leveled off, but infections are still high and of those infected there are a higher percentage of complications than in a normal flu season. They aren’t calling this a pandemic yet, but some people wonder why they are holding back from giving it that designation.

I emailed Angelia that when she gets a chance to make another store run, to make sure and pick up a couple of large bottles of hand sanitizer, bleach tablets, and some OTC drugs for me. She said she’ll add it to the list but right now that is all in short supply. That gave me something to think about and, I don’t want to over react, but I may buy some and send it home when we send everything else. It is on my list to talk with Vit about.

And on another topic, out of the blue today I got an email from Charlie saying he was going to paddle my behind when I get home. Nothing else, just that. So of course I emailed back and I asked what in the world for. He pinged me for a chat and we were both lucky that I had the time and the connectivity to make it happen. When he told me why he was “upset” I nearly fell out of my chair laughing. Some of the family are now hooked on estate sales, secondhand stores, etc. and he is being dragged this way and that to help out. I told him not my problem, they need to learn to pace themselves and buy their own blasted enclosed trailer. Well that got him laughing so I know he was only joking. And Charlie being Charlie he has started another income stream of finding things and reselling them.

He also told me that he continues to find things that need to be taken care of at the house.

“Vettie, it is a bigger mess than we thought. I was measuring for some linoleum in the utility room and found dry rot in the floor where one of the renters didn’t report a leak or clog or something and the floor was left damp for too long. The flashing on the vent for the dryer stack also pulled loose and during the last rain the leak was bad enough that the ceiling in the master bedroom fell. I might not be saving as much cash as I thought I was going to despite buying the used stuff.”

All I could think of was the mess. “The entire ceiling?!”

“No, just a piece that runs between the closet and the master bath. That can’t wait and Tal is going to have a guy he knows make the repair with some spare pieces of greenboard he has at the shop. We’re lucky it wasn’t an entire sheet that came down, but he isn’t going to put any drywall mud on it until he is sure that nothing is going to mold. He said he’ll get up there and spray the rafters with bleach and then Kilz over the beams after they are dry.”

Taking the bull by the horns I asked, “Charlie, I need to know … really need to know … are we fighting a losing battle with the Pembroke House?”

“Huh? Nah. Didn’t mean to give you that impression. I know it sounds bad but most of it is cosmetic. I won’t deny it is a mess but its mostly a cosmetic mess. Mom refused to let the house be updated … you know how she was. She liked it the way it has always been, and Dad barely remembered to wear matching socks so it didn’t bother him to live like that until he got a taste of something different when y’all moved to Jacksonville.” Then he asked, “You having second thoughts?”

“No. Of course not. I just don’t want Vit nor I walking in blind.” I told him what Vit said about his carpentry skills and being willing to learn what he didn’t currently know.

“That’ll help sure enough. And Tal and I are going to go over the place again and make sure nothing else got missed. The delayed maintenance and upgrading are the priorities. I’ll pick Tal’s brain on what he thinks can be done about the utility room floor. It isn’t a load bearing wall or on a floor joist, just a place where the washing machine used to sit. I know a couple of the windows won’t stay up, but I’m more concerned about making sure all the windows close and lock. The place will be livable when you two get here, it just won’t be the Ritz.”

“I’m not looking for it to be Charlie, I just want to have some idea where we need to start first. This tells me the wallpaper is going to have to wait until we get the other stuff finished. What about the landscaping and trees? And is the well still working? Can you find out how much it is going to cost to keep the peroxide system filled? After everyone moved out, we could go six weeks between peroxide fills, sometimes eight during the winter after Poppa had a separate ag well drilled.”

“I forget you did all that for Dad and Mom.”

Mentally shrugging I said, “When the last of you all moved out and Poppa just …”

Charlie did his own mental shrug and acknowledged, “Yeah, he slowed down. I guess none of us were really paying attention to how much. I’ll have Tal look and see if anything needs to be cut back from the house. I know the trees on the property line are pretty rough but might just leave them until last. Angelia swears if the Grangers’ goats get out again she’s going to start shooting. They mowed down an entire row of something and she was hot … I mean hot. Hey, before I forget, we did make sure the gas tank was filled already before prices went crazy. Derrick insisted and it was a good thing. But I’ve got it turned off to the house right now and the tank is padlocked and so is the shed it’s in. Tal said the electric system is still good except for a couple of those security lights out by the road, but that’s something else that is going to have to wait.”

“Just send me the list. Vit has surprising talents … I didn’t know it, but his degree is in mechanical engineering … and that he was hired for maintenance, only it morphed into more of a jack-of-all-trades kind of crew position.”

That gave him something to think about and then we broke off because it was late/early back home and between laundry and everything else, my own evening was planned out. Frankie is now in bed in his cabin and Vit and Nicholas should be done for the evening soon as well. I need to clean up the remaining mess Frankie and I left in the living area. And I need to put some balm on the bruise I can feel on the back of my shoulder. I sparred with another woman today and she was better than she let on. I was trying not to hurt her and she was trying to prove herself. She tossed me using a jiu jitsu move which I wasn’t expecting. Vit tried to hide he was upset but I told him not to be; that it proved his point that I was getting complacent only having him to spar with. Yes, it was a bit of a cheat on her part – it wasn’t supposed to be an MMA match – but it taught me a lesson. Better to learn a lesson that way and before you really could be hurt by it.

 

[Kathy in FL]

World Cruise Day 180: Feb 27 – Semarang, Java, Indonesia

Very full and busy day despite sailaway being at 5 pm. Then again starting at an early seven o’clock is part of what made the day feel so long. Breakfast was a hurried affair although it didn’t bother me. Is it possible to get tired of eating? All I wanted was toast and tea but I ate a bit of fruit just to keep my three male companions from trying an “but-you-don’t” if and when I ever had to get on to them about eating despite the hour.

I think today they started so early to try and beat the heat and humidity. Certainly, some people had a lot to say about the weather as the day wore on. And others wished they had chosen an earlier excursion. Our first excursion involved a mountain railway and a coffee plantation. A police car was used to clear the way through traffic, or it would have taken us a month of Sundays to actually get where we were going. There are two million people in Semarang and there is not a space that wasn’t occupied by a body or bike, even at that early hour, until we got outside of town.

After a scenic and historical drive through Semarang on a bus – an unairconditioned bus which made me glad Nicholas reminded Frankie to wear deodorant – we left the city and had a chance to explore the rural market town of Ambarawa where the antique Railway Museum is located. In 1873 King Willem I had a railway station built here to serve Dutch military and commercial interests, but when the rail ceased operating it was turned into a museum. They have well-restored collection 21 vintage locomotives with wood-paneled boxcars, old telegraph machines, antique photos and other railroad lore and paraphenalia. From there it was off to the railway itself. I have it on good authority – said authority being Frankie who read every plaquered he could find – that the oldest engine dated to 1891.

After the museum we climbed on board an old-fashioned passenger coach with wooden benches for seats and rode the rails through rice fields, plantations and tiny villages that I can’t remember the names of. No matter which side of the train you were sitting on the views were splendid. And the views of Rawa Pening lake with its mountain backdrop was fantastic. After disembarking we traveled by coach (what they call a bus) to a coffee plantation called Mestastilla. We saw demonstrations on how Javanese coffee is cultivated and processed. Vit and some of the other passengers enjoyed a smooth, rich cup of the brew but I abstained as I was still flying from the three cups of strong, black tea I’d had since climbing out of the shower this morning. Frankie and I did partake of one of the traditional snacks but I was more interested in trying to pay for a bag the coffee beans they were selling. I don’t know why Vit and I are focusing on coffee when we are both tea drinkers. I suppose it is something you do when you are on these kinds of excursions, but since the airlines no longer allow you to bring the in your carry on luggage, we need to be careful or they will take up too much room in the pieces that we check.

Soon afterwards we were on a “relaxing” drive back to the pier. Yes, I’m being sarcastic. My brain and stomach were shaken and stirred from the condition of the road and how our driver seemed to believe it was his duty above all other things to find every pothole between the plantation and the pier.

I would have been missing a better breakfast at this point if not for the snack at the plantation. Plus, the next tour included food as we toured the old town area of Semarang where we were introduced to Semarang’s Javanese, Chinese, Dutch and Indian heritage. It was a smaller excursion group than we had just left and there was some laughter as we saw Mr. and Mrs. O’Rourke in matching hats.

“It’s so we don’t lose each other Dear. Next, I’m going to tie a bell around his neck but hopefully this will be enough. You don’t want to know how many times I’ve caught the man wandering off in search of ‘refreshments,’” she said with an exasperated look.

Vit was a little concerned until he realized as the day wore on that they were mostly poking fun at their age as Mr. O’Rourke stayed close to his wife and in fact was the one that was keeping an eye on her.

It was a short drive to get to our first photo stop Gereja Blenduk, the oldest church in Central Java. Next it was another place of worship, the Sam Po Kong temple, a unique Chinese Muslim temple shared by Buddhists and Muslims. You wouldn’t think the two would mix very well but apparently these two sects do. The impressive temple was built for the Muslim Admiral Chen Ho of the Ming Dynasty, who led Chinese fleets throughout Asia and Java in the 15th century. It was impressive but there were also restrictions regarding dress that caught some of our members off guard.

We took a short detour and wound up at Toko Oen Restaurant where we were given a lesson on how to make Loenpia a traditional snack from Semarang. There was another coffee break – they drink a lot here – and then we climbed back on the bus. I was rather surprised to note that BO was becoming an issue for some of the passengers. Enough that even Frankie noticed, and I had to quietly remind him to use his inside voice (and quieter) since different cultures have different hygiene practices. In a whisper he said, “Well some people need to practice more.” Oh dear.

Next it was back to Semarang’s Old Town, home to about 50 buildings from the Dutch period, where we passed Lawang Sewu (Thousand Doors)—a colonial building that, despite its name, actually features more windows than doors. One of the last stops was the colorful Rainbow Village. That’s where we got out for a bit of free time. We strolled its narrow passageways covered in murals. We also had the opportunity to visit the Simpang Lima mall on the way back to the ship. The “mall” is where a lot of the nightlife happens in Semarang and has an abundance of food stalls. Not all of them were up to my standards of cleanliness but Mr. O’Rourke found a couple of good ones and even Vit found something he could eat without regret.

We were let off at a duty-free, port market and while the brothers spotted some possible additions to our snack inventory, Vit and I did a little quick shopping of our own. There was cocoa – the good stuff. The salesman told us we should get it while we can because while cocoa is in the top five of Indonesia’s export the industry it is under a lot of pressure, mostly from things like aging trees (most were planted in the 1980s), poor farm maintenance by small landowners, and rubber and palm oil being more profitable causing farmers to shift production to new products. The exportation tax of 2010 that was placed on raw cocoa beans didn’t help either.

I also picked up a couple of woven noken bags since I miss mine from back home. I used to use them for everything, from books to groceries to a purse substitute to beach bag. Derrick used to call them string bags but essentially, they are very simple macramé bags using a loose weave and simple knots.

Once we made it through the tempting sourvenir shops (Vit got a stone ax head and both boys followed suit) and back onto the ship, we spotted Madam and Miss Hayworth sitting on loungers fanning themselves. The wise crow, though not as little as he used to be, walked up and said, “You got too hot Grandmother. I’m going to go get you some ice water. Wait right here. You too Miss Betty.”

“Hang on Squirt. You can’t be the only hero around here!” Nicholas laughed before following his brother to the bar.

Madam smiled but admitted, “Bit warm today is right. Do the boys need a night off?”

I looked at Vit and he said, “Nicholas will be fine. Frankie?”

“Will probably wilt,” I added. “But only about an hour earlier than normal. They probably won’t feel it until the morning and since it is a sea day …”

Madam nodded. “Let them sleep in. You may bring Francis after dinner and we’ll have ice cream on the deck. I believe there is some cultural show on the top deck tonight as well. We’ll see if that works out.”

Water delivered we escorted our charges back to their cabins to change and wash up and after sailaway we all parted to attend to our schedules. I stayed to watch the show with the family until it was obvious that Frankie was drooping. Madam and Miss Hayworth were as well. Vit just returned telling me that everyone has turned in for the evening and he was going to take another shower and make an early night of it himself, that he’d had enough of people. Then backed up and said, “Unless you wish to take a turn around the promenade.”

I shook my head. “You look like you have a headache.”

He sighed and then sat down. “I think … know … that this trip is maturing Nicholas in ways that are changing him. But there are things that still concern me.” Then after a brief hesitation he continued. “He as been in contact with some old friends and … even though they have started university …”

Understanding almost immediately I said, “He’s losing parity with his peers.”

“Hm?”

“You remember how it was. On some things you felt your friends were far ahead of you. On others you wondered why they could not be more mature when to you it was obvious. Sex, relationships, life experience … between eighteen and twenty we all seem to experience extremes. Most of the time I felt like such a sheltered baby compared to my roommates. At other times I felt like a babusya.”

“Hmph. For me that time came during what you call ‘boot camp.’ By the time I went to university I felt too much the old man to even have friends there.” He sighed.

I asked, “Anything in particular or is it none of my business?”

“A girl. I believe the one you called a friend. He expected better of her I think than the choices she is making. She has allowed her anger to overshoot her commonsense and it has given him a disgust of her … and yet he feels badly because of that. And with a few others, he wonders on occasion what he is missing … or if he is missing anything.”

“Drinking, parties, that sort of thing?”

“Mm.”

“He’s not; it may just take time for him to recognize it. He was no angel when we started this adventure.”

“Nii, he was not. I thought to tell him so but he knows already and said it himself before I needed to. That alone tells me he has come a long way. But he is still more boy than man. I … worry for him.”

“To a similar degree I’m worried for Frankie, but Madam seems to think she may have a solution.” I told him about the great nephew. “But Nicholas is not Frankie and you know he eventually has to be able to manage on his own.”

“I am teaching him to manage with adults. I need to think about how to teach him to manage with peers.”

Vit consented to a massage before his shower. When he tried to apologize for not “appreciating” me I told him that I felt appreciated when he was willing to share with me what worried him. It made me feel like a partner, and equal.

“In all things Kokhana,” he said, giving me a kiss before grabbing his night clothes and heading to the bathroom.

It didn’t take long and now I sense he has settled and found sleep. I think I’ll do the same after a quick clean up.

 

[Kathy in FL]

World Cruise Day 181: Feb 28 – Cruise the Java Sea

Sea day and back cruising the Java Sea. This area was the sight of a disastrous naval battle during World War II, when Allied Forces were defeated by the Japanese on 27 Feb 1942. But there were no disasters today. In fact, today has been rather … muted. Strange description for a day but I think people are still adjusting to the changes in scenary and culture.

After morning lessons Frankie spent the remainder of the day with Madam. They both seemed to benefit from it. Miss Hayworth appreciated having someone keep Madam company so that she could get some work done herself. She did ask for help with some packing. The humidity caused her arthritis to flare up. “It will be gone by tomorrow but the first day in a weather change is always irritating. Normally we’d have help with this but the young woman on staff that did it in the past decided to leave the ship in Semarang where her family is. Her sister is ill and she is needed to care for her family. You wouldn’t know it but the flu was destructive when it went through the area. How is your family dear?”

So we spoke of this and that while I helped and we managed to get most of their purchases packed in a single trunk (and moved into an out of the way place in the cabin) as well as pack up the clothing that neither woman will be using for the remainder of the cruise that they will donate to a charity in Malaysia recommended by the O’Rourkes. Then it was dinner time and I went off to decide what I wanted to do for dinner and was invited by Vit to dine with him as Nicholas was going to eat alone in his cabin as he “had some thinking to do.”

“I hope Madam allows him to work through things on his own before adding her two cents,” I told Vit.

“Mmm. I believe that is the plan. Having Frankie to spend some of her feelings on has helped both brothers. Nicholas is allowed to breathe, and the boy seems to be better for the attention.”

“As you say mmm.”

“You are worried he will become spoiled.”

“In a word? Yes.”

“Fraulein Hayworth mentioned there has been discussion on the topic and Madam says she will be more … judicious … than she was with Nicholas. It is good if she does. The boys’ mother seems to … how to say this …”

“She isn’t getting jealous is she?”

“Eh … perhaps. I believe she feels a loss for what she has missed now that she has reached that certain age.” His ear tips grew a bit pink when I simply looked at him. “It is what Fraulein Hayworth said.”

I chuckled and let him off the hook giving him the same out I give the brats when they start talking about female things. After a light meal for me and one of protein and salad for Vit, we returned to the cabin to relax, avoid prying eyes, and work on our notes. It didn’t take long for Vit to grow weary and I told him to please make an early night of it. He agreed and I was just happy to see he didn’t even think to drink a glass of anything at dinner or here in the cabin. I was also happy to see he rubbed his stomach less. And now that he is asleep I need to go there as well.

 

[Kathy in FL]

World Cruise Day 182: Mar 1 – Cruise the South China Sea

I am so aggravated. One hundred and eighty-two days without a single sign of it and boom there are about two-dozen cases. Norovirus. It had to be brought on board in either Bali or Semarang. Gah! Derrick had suggested that I bring beach tablets for the express purpose of something like this … I could always say I was using it in laundry if nothing came of it but unfortunately, he was correct, as usual.

With anything else I could get away with spritzing peroxide on surfaces; that even kills e. coli but not norovirus. Noro is like the Godzilla of bacteria. It can live on surfaces up to two weeks. Yuck. So out came my spritz bottle and I diluted some of the powdered bleach and started in Vit and my cabin, moved on to the brothers’, and then insisted on doing the same for Madam and Miss Hayworth. I’m sure they all thought me nuts … until Mrs. O’Rourke hunted me down and asked if she could borrow some of the powdered bleach herself.

“At our age,” she said referring to herself and her husband. “Noro could be the death of us.”

As a retired missionary nurse she knows the dangers and it was nice to have a little back up for my mania. At home it would have been Derrick. Here I was less certain of my reception but didn’t particularly care. Even the cabin stewards stayed out of my way once I got going. The other thing I have is what Derrick demanded (yes, demanded) that I bring with me were the healthcare grade Clorox Germicidal Wipes. Totally different product that the Clorox wipes you buy at the grocery. These things have real bleach in them, and you have to use plastic gloves when you use the wipes because you don’t want to expose your skin to them. And you might as well not even bother with anything if you don’t leave the surface you are disinfecting wet for three to five minutes. And pre-clean. That means clean the surface with a regular cleanser. Then take your wipe or rag or whatever that is wet from the real bleach solution and wipe down the surface so that it stays damp from the bleach. This is all per the CDC and OSHA. It is a ton of work and why I am irritated. And even then, if people don’t wash their hands – correctly please – several times, especially prior to and after meals and restroom breaks you are just wasting your time. I swear, if there is any cross-contamination or re-contamination in the areas that I am cleaning I will have someone’s head.

I found out a strange thing … Nicholas is a germaphobe. He hides it well but there is no doubt that is what he is. When he was a freshman in high school MRSA got into the boys’ locker room and several of his friends wound up very ill. Frankie says he hates using public toilets and gym showers … and has mesh shower shoes when he does have to shower at school or the gym. When he found out what I was doing he offered to help, and he has been on Frankie at every turn to wash his hands. Good deal.

The ship is also taking action. The buffet is no longer self-serve. There are mandatory wash stations before you can enter any dining room and monitors enforcing the new rules. I noticed even more of the hand sanitizer stations going up all over the ship. And there are bathroom monitors now as well. The Fitness Center has been shut down until the outbreak is at an end; they may close the hot tubs if too many more cases are reported. And the attendants in the spa and salon are now wearing medical grade face masks, they aren’t necessarily wearing them correctly but they are wearing them. And this evening we found a write up in the daily newsletter reminding people how to avoid becoming infected and what to do if you develop symptoms … namely go to your cabin and stay there and immediately call the medical bay and someone will come to you.

Ugh. Vit and I have agreed that cuddling will have to wait for a few days so that we can see where this goes. But in addition to all the rest Vit has become stressed again regarding the upcoming ports. Brunei is worrisome but does not bother him much as he and I will be with the brothers and Mr. O’Rourke will be escorting his wife, Madam, and Miss Hayworth. Mr. O’Rourke also has some business contacts from his former employer that will be escorting them in a private tour and calling it a business expense. Malaysia he isn’t happy about as he does not go with Frankie and I but he spoke to someone and found out a couple of male crew members will be on that particular excursion. Madam et al will not be touring that day as they have a business meeting scheduled at a hotel near the cruise port. The Philippines is an adventure tour and he and Nicholas will be joining us on both days. After that comes China and he says he will relax a bit as our tours are small and well chaperoned due to the language barrier. I didn’t tell him I can speak and understand Mandarin but reminded myself to do so in the near future. We’ll see how it goes from there.

And as stated we are in Brunei tomorrow and I’m not really sure what to expect. Finally heard from Dylan and on the matter of the lawyer, I shouldn’t have any more problems as the Foundation’s law firm put them in their place and a motion has already been signed by the judge removing them from the case. I can read between the lines, but I’ll leave it to Dylan and keep my suspicions to myself. I’m glad he is my brat because I surely wouldn’t want to cross him. After finding out everyone in his house was on the mend I asked him about Brunei and he told me to dress conservative and behave respectful and I shouldn’t have a problem. I’ll take his word for it but I’m still second guessing my choice of outfit for tomorrow.

And now it is time for me to go to bed. Too much worry makes Veta a cranky girl.

 

[Kathy in FL]

World Cruise Day 183: Mar 2 – Bandar Seri Begawan (Muara), Brunei

Not sure what I expected of Brunei, but I must admit most of the people I met were extremely friendly. I did go out of my way to dress conservatively with a three-quarter length sleeve tunic and a tea-length skirt with my black flats. I also brought a scarf but only resorted to it a few times and that was due to wind and not censure.

Afer a respectable breakfast to start the day we arrived in port at 9 am. Before we departed the ship everyone was reminded multiple times to reread last night’s newsletter concerning the social, cultural, and legal issue to be found in Brunei. The biggy for some of the passengers was the fact there was no alcoholic beverages sold in the entire country. There is a type of homemade moonshine but it is only tolerated in the strictest of circumstances. Not stated on the loudspeaker, but alluded to what was said in the newsletter, is that all LGBTQ matters are strictly against the laws of the country and they take the issue very seriously. Sharia is the law of the land. But it is not applied the same to all, and not as it is in some other countries. Brunei is conservative but not fundamental and I have been told that there is a huge difference between the two. I suppose that would depend on what your worldview is. However, the other thing that everyone must remember is that Brunei does not have freedom of speech; not for citizens and certainly not for visitors. Basically, if you can’t say anything good it is best to say nothing at all.

Vit and I spoke with the brothers during breakfast on acceptable dress and behavior. Frankie said, “I’ll pretend I’m in Chapel and Brother Ernst is standing right behind me.”

Nicholas shuddered. “Enough with the nightmares Squirt. Even Dad remembers Brother Ernst and the glass eye he has.” I know Nicholas was trying to break the tension, but I had a hard time letting the disrespect go, especially when Frankie laughed. I turned a look on Nicholas that wasn’t a glare, but it was certainly a warning. He caught on immediately and changed the subject and kept it there until we exited the ship.

Our first excursion was basically a highlights-of-Brunei tour. First, we met our guide and drove to Jerudong, built upon the fortunes of a sultan’s younger brother. We drove passed the Sultan Polo Horse Grounds, used by the sultan himself. Next came Jerudong Amusement Park, where we stopped to admire its diamond ring shaped arch. Then the Empire Hotel, renowned for its huge glass atrium and gilded interiors. From there we continued to Bandar Seri Begawan to witness the rich Islamic heritage of Brunei. I got a little uncomfortable as I had to dress in a full burka to get a chance to admire the 29 golden domes of the Jame’Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque, the largest in the country. It was my choice to follow their religious mandates, but I felt fake … and I must admit part of me felt like a traitor as well. The mosque was dominated by a quartet of terrazzo-tiled minarets. Yes, it was beautiful but again, when I removed the burka I felt very uncomfortable and was eager to leave.

Next, we visited the Royal Regalia Building Museum, dedicated to the Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah. One of the main displays were the chariots that conveyed him during his coronation and Silver Jubilee, and the stunning gold and silver ceremonial weapons that were part of his regalia.

It was at that point that we really needed to get the brothers something to eat. I could have waited until the ship, and Vit probably could have as well, but Nicholas’ stomach was making itself known by sound … and by the down shifting of his behavior. As part of our tour we were taken to a local restaurant where I found the most common dishes to be very Malaysian in flavor and ingredient. The meal was served family style with all of us ordering something that was shared.

When the food arrived I felt eyes watching me, so I tried to behave as conservatively as possible. I served Vit first, then Nicholas, then Frankie, before putting anything on my plate. The food was very good, especially the beef satay that I ordered to make sure that Vit had something not too spicy, but it didn’t lessen my discomfort. It was not until four women in full burka left that I could relax. I later overheard a British man sitting behind us whisper to his companion that the women were some kind of female guard that goes around “ticketing” women that didn’t conform to fundamentalist practices. I later heard – I really do need to stop eavesdropping – that the government tries to keep such groups under control as they tend to get out of hand and abusive causing more problems than they ever solve.

After our meal, our afternoon was taken up by an interesting excursion on Malaysian technology. We were privileged to explore the day-to-day life in a water village and learn about Brunei’s ancient technologies. First our driver and guide took us to a local market, bustling with vendors and buyers of colorful, locally grown fruits and vegetables and fragrant herbs. It was a type of farmer’s market I suppose. After some time to absorb its sights and sounds, we continued to an authentic water village. These unique villages date back to the days of when nobles of the island of Borneo lived in houses supported by stilts on the river. Today, people still call these villages home which should tell you how long they have been operating. We were invited to join a family in their home for tea and snacks. I did not have the same feelings there that I had in the restaurant. To the contrary, everyone was really nice and so friendly and welcoming. I would have put it down to my imagination except that I knew it wasn’t.

Our visit provided a (rare) glimpse of the island’s heritage and how important hospitality is in their practices. We all tried to show how appreciative we were, and I think it was in turn appreciated. After leaving the home we continued to the interesting Malay Technology Museum. It held a remarkable collection that showcased the island’s ancient ways of boat-building, fishing, metallurgy and gold-smithing. As interesting as it all was, I do not think I could live on stilt-houses like that. It is certainly a different culture.

The lady of the house told me in confidence that one of the booths at the port market was run by her sister’s husband and that he had a cloth there that matched my eyes. It was after we left our guide (and paid him a nice gratuity that he shared with the driver) that I mentioned it as a joke to Vit. Only Vit became intrigued and insisted we locate the booth before reboarding. There were several that sold the gold and silver threaded material that Brunei is famous for so finding the booth wasn’t easy but Vit managed it and then insisted on purchasing several bits of yardage in various colors … and yes one of them did indeed match my hazel eyes. In addition to the gold and silver embroidered fabric, he insisted I pick out some of the Brunei Velvet as well. What on earth I will ever use it all for I don’t know, but I do know there is a built-in cedar cabinet in the old “laundry room” that I can store the fabric in. That’s where the women in the family had always kept their sewing machines and craft items. I was thinking to repurpose the room as a pantry but maybe I won’t after all. We’ll just have to see.

Dinner on board the ship was quiet. I think the heat is getting to some of the passengers. But at least I can say that there was only one new report for the norovirus. If tomorrow was a sea day I would do another thorough cleaning but we are in port. I will do it again the next day however. For now, I am tired and as Vit is already asleep – after requesting that I play for him – that is where I am going.

 

[Kathy in FL]

World Cruise Day 184: Mar 3 – Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia

Today’s excursions were themed to be culturally immersive. My opinion? Partly yes, partly no. I think to be immersive it would have needed to be more like a work a day on a ranch or farm or something similar where you participated in the day-to-day life. The activities today were participatory exhibits more than immersive from an educational stand point. Perhaps I am drawing a fine line – though I don’t think I am – but I need to get it correct for Frankie’s portfolio.

Vit was uncomfortable with Frankie and I on our own but we weren’t really “on our own” as we would be with a bus load of other people. He reluctantly agreed, but mostly because he knew there wasn’t anything he could really do about it. I rarely use my phone for anything other than a camera these days but to allay his concerns I did make sure that he could still track me using the app that I had shown him months back. I wouldn’t say that Vit relaxed precisely but he wasn’t quite as uptight.

The first part of our early morning day was … unique. Our journey began with a scenic 10-mile drive through Kota Kinabalu, passing sites such as the Bandaraya Mosque and Tun Mustafa Tower. The city was largely destroyed during World War II and then rebuilt after 1946. Our driver had a very strong accent and it was difficult for those of us in the back to understand him but the drive itself kept us interested. At the end of the drive we arrived at our morning destination where we were to study the legendary “person of the forest,” the great orangutan, at the Lok Kawi Wildlife Park.

The Ministry of Tourism, Culture and Environment runs Lok Kawi Wildlife Park which is spread over an area of 280 acres. Within the zoo are botanical sites that are under the management of the Sabah Forestry Department and the Zoological Site. While there we saw one of only two great ape species endemic to Asia, the orangutan, along with Borneo Pygmy elephants, Proboscis monkey, Malayan tigers, several species of deer, and a variety of tropical birds (Frankie’s favorite). The stated goal of the 280-acre park is to educate the public on wildlife and environmental conservation, research captive management, rescue native animals for treatment and rehabilitation, and facilitate the reproduction of endangered species. We pretty much had free reign in the park after a brief introduction.

The park is set up to be family friendly. It reminded me of the Jacksonville Zoo and Gardens, though with some differences. Despite Jacksonville Zoo being half the size of Lok Kawi, they have twice the animals with more variety. It sounds kind of snotty to say it though, so I kept my thoughts to myself. Frankie enjoyed the tour so there was no reason for me to even bring it up. I must admit that I enjoyed the one-mile botanical trail and after some of the busier and more hectic tours we’ve had, it was lovely.

Soon enough (or not depending on your opinion) we were heading back to Kota Kinabalu. We were dropped off at a place called Kota Kinabalu Handicraft Market. It was free and we had some time to kill so I agreed to go in with Frankie as we waited for our next tour guide to show up. One of the clerks was a college student and she spoke English as she wanted to eventually get a student visa to the US to finish a medical degree. We started up a conversation with me sharing what I knew of the universities in Florida. It was inevitable I suppose that I succumbed to buying a few things after that. In addition to my favored post cards I got more batik fabric, spices, and a unique set of matching pewter mugs for Vit and I. They aren’t frou-frou dust-collectors though the mugs are lovely enough to sit on a display shelf. They are practical as well. Frankie purchased a few small, carved birds and a plastic covered study guide on the Birds of Borneo.

Next to the handicraft market was a fruit and seafood market with several meal vendors. I got a small variety for Frankie and I to share for lunch. Asam Laksa (fish-based noodle soup), Char kway teow (stir-fried rice cake strips), and Sarawak laksa which is also a noodle soup though not so spicy as the Asam, and I got the version that was made of chicken for Frankie though he was brave enough he tried the Asam as well. For our dessert we had Cendol which is an iced sweet dessert that contains droplets of worm-like green rice flour jelly, coconut milk and palm sugar syrup. I know it sounds odd, and can look positively disgusting, but it is delicious. Frankie was dubious but gave it a go and then when he found out how refreshing it is in the heat and humidity, I let him have the rest of it. We finished our meal just in time to spy the tour bus show up.

According to the brochure, the purpose of the excursion was to “gain immeasurable insight into the lives of indigenous Malaysian tribes during a visit to a colorful village.” I don’t know if I would go that far, but it was interesting. First, we drove into the jungle interior of Sabah. How the geography works is that Malaysia is the country made up of multiple islands. Borneo is an island in Malaysia. Sabah is a state in Malaysia located on the island of Borneo. And Kota Kinabalu is a city/port in the state of Sabah.

After our drive through the interior of Sabah we arrived at the Mari Mari Cultural Village. The “village” is really a “living” museum which features five distinct ethnic tribes. Upon arrival we received a warm welcome into the various homes that embody the ethnicities. Each home was built by descendants of the tribes they represent and provide a genuine glimpse of the island's diversity. First was the Murut, who were head hunters. Ick. But the guide explained it was a survival technique showing they were ferocious hunters fully willing and able to protect their village. Or as another man in our group whispered, “That’s their story and they’re sticking to it.” Next came the Lundayeh who were, and remain, a small minority group. In 1905 a smallpox outbreak dropped their population for 20,000 to 3,000 in only a few months. The Bajau tribe are the equivalent of Malaysian cowboys. They are also known as “sea gypsies” as they live and travel on the ocean in temporary houseboats. The Kadazan are a Christian tribe, mostly Roman Catholic, and are attached to the land being mostly farmers. Islam is making some inroads into the tribe, but more through intermarriage rather than conversion. The Rungus tribe was once a sect of the Kadazans and were pagan, but once they established their own independent identity, they too became mostly Christian.

As we visited with the "residents" of each house, we had the chance to witness many traditions as well as try some of them. Frankie and I both tried target shooting with a blowpipe. Weird. I was the only one able to start a fire using bamboo but that is only thanks to Devin and the fact that we had/have a large stand of bamboo that acts as a property line barrier in one area of the Pembroke House land. I left the dancing on a handmade Lansaran, a traditional trampoline-like floor, to Frankie who thought it was hilarious. The demonstration of how clothing is made from tree bark was interesting, as was the importance of tattoos within their culture.

After the “houses” we were treated to an artistic performance of several tribal dances and then had to quickly get back to port to get on the ship. Vit was standing at the bottom of the gangway waiting impatiently. He had sent Nicholas onboard with Madam and the O’Rourkes.

“The ship would not have left without us as we were on one of their sponsored excursions,” I reminded him.

“Hmph,” was all he responded. I let it go until we dropped Frankie off at his cabin. I asked Nicholas to let his grandmother know that both grandsons were safely aboard as I was going to go take a shower.

As soon as our cabin door closed I looked at him and said as calmly as I could, “I can’t do my job if you behave as if you have no confidence in me.”

He scrubbed his forehead with a frustrated hand. “I am aware how my actions appear despite not meaning them to. I simply …” then he paced for a moment before saying. “I cannot promise this will not happen again Kokhana. I do not like you and the boy where I cannot be.”

“Because of me. Because of him. Or because of something else?”

I later found out he was surprised I was willing to be reasonable. That does not say much for his view about females but if he can’t learn new habits from me, Angie and the other sisters will pound it into him.

“Nii. It is not you. I do not like the feel of things I hear on the news.”

“You are feeding off of those men you hang out with in the bar at night.”

“What?”

“Vit, don’t take this the wrong way. I am not calling you a hysterical woman or anything even close. I am saying that the world has always been a dangerous place all the way back to Cain. I, like you, know that in a way that many do not. But I am asking you to give me a little more credit than you …”

“Kokhana, I said I know what it looks like. But it is not you.” He took a deep and calming breath through his nose. “I will try, but …”

“Why didn’t you just text me or check my location?”

“I … did not wish you to think I was checking up on you.”

I just shook my head. “Vit, I made sure before I left the ship that you could reach me if you need to. At least by txt or app. Now why should I get angry or hurt if you do the very thing I set up to ease your mind?”

He turned to look out the slider and then shook his own head. “You are too reasonable.”

I put my hand over my mouth trying to keep from laughing but he turned and saw anyway and his irritated frown turned into a reluctant grin. “Very well. But do not blame me if I check often.”

I walked over and hugged him around the waist. “Don’t worry. I’m female enough to find something else to blame you for.” I started laughing for real when what I said finally registered and then I ran for the bathroom when he growled playfully.

I’ll say this once here and then not again. Robert would have thrown a royal hissy. It might not have been over the same topic, but it would have turned into an argument if I hadn’t caved and apologized right away. I’ve come to understand that my fear of confrontation was something he used as a tool to control me. I’m not the girl I used to be. Now I must find some kind of reasonable medium that will allow me to respect myself more but not push Vit away and recognize when he isn’t being protective out of any sense of maliciousness. This relationship with Vit is easier and more complicated than it ever was with Robert. And given the direction it continues to grow, I’m more than happy with that.

The evening has been quiet. Dinner, lessons, uploading pictures and returning correspondence. Frankie is off to his bed and I’m about to be off to mine. Vit said he would be out late. He didn’t say if it was for Nicholas’ sake or not. I’ll choose to accept his motivations regardless of what they are. But I do miss having quiet time with him.

 

[Kathy in FL]

World Cruise Day 185: Mar 4 – Cruise the South China Sea

Chatted with Derrick today. He sounds much more like his old self. He said that Farley called him to ask his opinion on a case of flu related complications in a set of pediatric patients, all close family members. I didn’t understand all the science jargon he was using but I got the general idea. But the idea behind some of the science? Can you engineer the flu virus? And even if you could in a lab, would it survive “in the wild” and then concurrently infect populations already being infected by the natural flu virus?

Ugh. Way over my head. Vit got a thoughtful look but then basically said the same thing plus that there was nothing he could do about it, that we must address what we can affect. All I know is that the work Farley asked of Derrick seemed to lift his spirits despite the subject matter. Derrick also revealed that the number of new flu infections is way down in both the “natural” in-the-wild flu and in the mutated flu. Hospitals and places like that still have lots of active cases but that’s just them addressing all the existing cases with complications. Lots of theories starting to show up in the news, at least US news, just like when all that stuff was going on in Cuba before the sound-assault weapons were found to exist after all. The kind of stuff no one believes until they are forced to.

I also got to chat with Dylan today though that turned to be not as jolly. He said that he wants Vit and I to be on the look out for a packet that he is having delivered in the Philippines. He wants us to keep them in the cabin safe. They are for the “just in case” necessity of what he and I spoke of before. Vit was nearly furious and I nearly cried when we spoke of it tonight. We’ve worked it out and made up I suppose. I warned Dylan about how he approached it, but it still wasn’t pleasant.

“Your brother speaks to you before he even speaks to me?!”

“Dylan was only checking to make sure that I wasn’t averse.”

“Averse?! Is that not my job to … to see if you … me … I … we …“ He muttered something indistinct and rude in Ukrainian then stalked over to the slider and stepped out onto the verandah and stared at the South China Sea as it flowed by. I didn’t know whether to follow him or not and then decided to let him have the space he was looking for.

Of course my issues took me down the path that Vit really hadn’t meant to get to the point of marriage and that I had made a huge mistake. But I’m not a child and couldn’t let my fears of being abandoned get the best of me. I admit I was shaking, and it was at that moment that Madam called for me to come get Frankie. I almost called out to Vit but he looked so forbidding and brooding that I jotted a quick note, left it on the door, and left the cabin as quietly as I could.

When I got to the lounge it was to find both he and Madam crowing about having won another trivia contest. Madam was going off with some friends for a nightcap and Frankie was so wound up that she suggested a few laps on the promenade. Frankie concurred and I was left with no choice.

It took nearly four laps (almost a mile) to get the wiggles out and for him to start showing how tired he really was after a day of exercise, sunshine, lessons, swimming, and learning an introductory krav maga move. He asked for a small bowl of ice cream and I obliged because I have noticed that he carb crashes not long afterward and seems to sleep better. We were almost to his cabin when he said, “The rice they had for dinner was really good wasn’t it.”

“It sounds like it was,” I responded.

He frowned. “Didn’t you have any?”

“No. Here’s your cabin. You may listen to an audio book, but no tv. We have an early morning.”

“But …”

“Frankie.”

“I wasn’t complaining, honest Miss Veta. I just meant why didn’t you eat dinner?”

“I missed it taking care of some other things. Now, off to bed. I’m sure Nicholas will …”

“… open the door so we can listen to the last couple of chapters of the book before it drives me crazy wanting to know what happens next.”

Nicholas had opened the door from the inside of the cabin and made his brother laugh with his antics. As I turned to leave Nicholas said, “Mr. D is looking for you.”

“Hmm. I left him a note.”

“That’s what he said but … er … I think his stomach is upset or something. You don’t think he has … you know …”

“I doubt it. He probably ate something that didn’t agree with him. Goodnight.”

I held it together until I got to the cabin and headed straight for the shower in the dark cabin only to run face first into what felt like a wall.

“Umph.”

“Veta …”

“Oh … excuse me. I didn’t mean to get in your way.”

“Veta …”

“Do you need the …”

“Veta.”

“Yes?”

“I … did not … mean … I suspect I have upset you.”

“Everything is fine. Do you need the antacids? They are …”

He sighed. “You are no better at pretending something is not wrong than I am apologizing for doing the wrong. Please. Sit. We should talk.”

“Vit, don’t. I’ve obviously taken things wrong and …”

“Nii!” he growled then groaned. “Nii. Just … sit. For a moment.”

I pushed on through because I felt I had no choice and did as he said. “Vit, I don’t know what it is you want me to say but I apologize. My family can be … pushy. They mean the best of course. But …”

I felt him cautiously sit down beside me and all I wanted to do was get up and put some distance between me and what I thought was coming. The polite and kind explanation that I had allowed, yet again, my neediness to create a toxic environment for the other person and they needed out. It had happened before. Too many times.

Instead of moving away I just continued my mia culpa. “I explained back in the beginning that I have issues. I’m too …”

He put his arm around me slowly.

“… needy and I smother people and …”

He carefully pulled me closer. “Veta. I spoke with Dylan … and Der-rick. Dylan said he should have taken you more seriously. That he has a tendency to treat people like chess pieces at times. He merely wants us to arrive safely and together and he views those papers he is sending as the most secure and simple method of making that happen. Der-rick … was upset and said that he would prefer for us to wait until we both have what he calls breathing room and the family to support us both. But he is not against … marriage. And if that is the only way to ensure our return together … then the family will deal with it. But to expect them to also want something called all the trimmings.”

“Don’t worry about it Vit. They can just deal with the fact that they …”

“Then I spoke with Char-lie and he asked what all the fuss was about. But if I was worried to speak to Angelia. Which I did … and she was who explained how you would … misunderstand why I was … angered.”

“I said don’t worry about it Vit. It was all just a mad misunderstanding. Of course we all want you to come to Pembroke but there shouldn’t be any other pressures or expectations. If you’ll excuse me I need to …”

He tightened his arm. “Veta do you know how I was … about the other men looking at you? It was a baseless fear. You are helping me to understand that. Do you … can you … let me help you understand that it is a baseless fear you have that … that I do not care for you?”

“Vit of course I know you care. You show me all the time. I just was smothering you and …”

“Nii Kokhana. Nii. Listen to me. My anger was because … I had plans.”

“Of course and you should be allowed ...”

“Let me finish. I had plans. I was going to prove myself. Get a job on my own. I was going to prove to your sisters I am not just the bastard boy from the orphanage, that I woud make a good husband for you. Then I was going to speak to your brats. Do what they asked of me as proof. And then … I was going to ask for your hand.” I could hear him swallow. “This changes my plans.”

“Then stop worrying about it.”

He kissed the side of my face and whispered, “I am not … worrying about it. Your sister and your brats already say they approve of me. And vouch for the approval of the ones that have not said it aloud. They already welcome me. But now I think there has been a set back. You hold yourself away from me. That you are sorry for something you did not do.” He kissed me again. “I did not think Kokhana. You are … young. And have had hurts same as I. And the man … Robert … made you feel …”

More than a little affronted that he would bring it up I snapped, “I don’t want to talk about that or him … or any of it.”

“Very well, we will not. But you will let me back in. There must be no walls between us.”

“I’m not …”

“Shhh. It will take time. But you will still allow this. Let us get our notes, start going over them.”

What was I supposed to do? Storm around and have a tantrum, prove to him that I am as “young” as he worries I am? So I sat. And we talked. And I believe he at least thinks that it has become a non-issue. But I’m having a hard time changing what I think. I know how he says he feels. I know how he thinks he feels. I know how I feel. But for some reason my feelings are worried that he’ll realize his feelings aren’t what he thought they were or that I will do something to cause his feelings to change. Confused much? Yeah. Me too. I love him. I even trust that he loves me. But too often in my life I have found that love isn’t enough.

 

[Kathy in FL]

World Cruise Day 186: Mar 5 – Manila, The Philippines (Day 1)

Yesterday was like a bad dream. Not the entire day but the fight/non-fight part of it. I “won” because I didn’t fight, didn’t act out or whatever term you want to stick on it, but winning doesn’t mean there was a victory. And even after getting some sleep, I’m not sure my feelings on the matter have changed all that much. I’m at least able to act some way other than a hesitant, Needy-Nelly; however, I’m still not sure that is saying much. Vit on the other hand is acting like he has conquered a problem. I wish I could have confidence that means something. I don’t want to create a self-fulfilling prophecy. I think he might leave me therefore how I act ends up being the reason he leaves me. Ridiculous Veta, grow a brain and pull up your big girl underwear.

Maybe I am just tired. Today has been strenuous, both physically and emotionally. I wish I could have enjoyed it the way I should have, the way others did. It wasn’t just what happened with Vit, but some difficult memories with Momma.

We pulled into port a little before 8 am and the port was already a bustling and busy place. We were at Pier 4, within walking distance of old town. The travel websites I have read say that up until WW2 Manilla was thought to be the most beautiful city in Asia, that it called “The Pearl of the Orient.” However, the war put an end to that. By the end of the war Manilla was the second most destroyed city, only surpassed by Warsaw, Poland. The first bombing happened one day after Pearl Harbor and it never let up the entire war. After the war, it rebuilt quickly but has never been quite the same. Today it is very cosmopolitan city with a population in excess of 1.5 million people.

Vit noticed that I was moving slow to get off the ship. “You … are well?”

“I’m fine. Just … memories.”

“Last night?”

I could at least answer that honestly. “Nii. No.”

“You do not wish to tell me.”

He sounded a little sad so I tried to explain, “It is from when … Momma became completely bed ridden.” As he waited I finally told him, “She couldn’t do much and even turning her head became an agony so Poppa and I fixed the TV so that she could look straight ahead. It was a big tv so she could have eye movement and didn’t feel imprisoned, though we could tell that is exactly how she felt. But moving her caused her agony. Nothing could really change that. The tv became her world and she got hooked on watching travel shows and there was one in particular that she liked because it combined cooking and travel and cultural stuff. It was done by a man named Anthony Bourdain. He killed himself years ago, but his show was still popular for a while and Momma would watch all the seasons and episodes I could find for her. One in particular was her favorite. It was about the Philippines.”

Frankie had been eavesdropping a bit and butted in with the question, “Why did she like that one so much?”

Nicholas popped him in the back of his head as a reminder of the pecking order so I let it go but I did answer him. “Because my mother loved Christmas even up to the very end and here in the Philippines Christmas is such an important season that they start celebrating as early as September.”

“Wow.”

“Yes, they do a rather stand out job of it. The Philippines are one of two principle Christian countries in Asia. The other is East Timor.”

Nicholas said, “Never heard of it.”

“My point. The Philippines take their position very seriously.”

I left off lecturing and glanced at their feet quickly as we hurried to our excursion van. I was happy to see they were both in their hiking shoes with proper socks. And that they matched.

After an hour and a half drive we arrived in Tagaytay City, located on the edge of the 19-mile wide edge of the Taal caldera. Taal Volcano is the smallest active volcano in the world, and it is actually a volcano within a lake within a volcano-since both the lake and volcano are situated inside an extinct volcanic caldera. When we reached the shores of Taal Lake, we enjoyed a brief picnic lunch before hopping on a boat for the ride across the lake to Taal Volcano Island. Once on the island, we were paired with a horse for a guided horseback ride along black lava flows. As we ascended, we passed active volcanic steam vents and smelled the occasional strong scent of Sulphur. It was a reminder of what was going on beneath our feet. We eventually made our way up to a viewpoint overlooking the crater lake and Vulcan Point, a tiny island within the crater lake.

At the top we had a little free time. Vit was the one taking pictures for a change with his phone and with the GoPro. I avoided them as I could. I was having trouble getting the memories of Momma to turn loose and not be only sad. The horse I was riding was a good one. Perhaps not the smartest or most regal looking animal, but he still was a good horse and let me lean on him and rub him without fuss, a good comfort animal. The only thing he asked was for me to scratch his withers which I obliged.

When it was time to mount up Vit was there and even though I could have done it by myself I let him help. He acted like I was the one doing him a favor rather than the other way around. We rode back the way we had come, went back across the lake, then climbed in our van and it was an hour and a half drive back to the pier, but at least it was filled with talk that let me avoid the noise in my head. The guide told us about Mt. Pinatubo and how the lahar – the mudflow remains of Mt. Pinatubo’s 1991 eruption – was so destructive that it is still visible from the air and that 4x4’s use it like a track to get back to the green water-filled crater that remains after the eruption.

I was looking forward to getting the smell of trail and horse off in a shower, but it wasn’t to be. It seems that we had an evening activity that I hadn’t been told of. The driver turned us over to our next guide when he let us off at the Binondo Church. The tour started immediately with the guide telling stories of how the Chinese traveled and settled here in the Philippines. Binondo is the Chinatown of Manilla and is reportedly the oldest Chinatown in the world. Basically, the guide said he would use the food tour to tell parts of the history of the Philippines. The guide walked fast on the crowded streets and it was a challenge for some members of the party to keep up. So it was off to the races … er … food tastings.

We tried authentic Chinese dim sum and FIlipino-Chinese fusion foods with three restaurant hops. The flavors were diverse and the stories of the cuisines and how they traveled all the way from China was admittedly fascinating. We also saw American buildings, remnants of the American influences and architectural gems of some Filipino National Artists. Next course on the food tour was tasting two different noodle dishes – pancit and lomi. Knowing what was likely to come I automatically handed Vit a roll of antacids which he took gratefully. There was an exotic food stop where we had the opportunity to try frog legs in different cooking styles. The brothers wouldn’t touch them, and neither would many of the other people we were on the tour with, but those of us that did found them delicious. Vit looked at me and then tried a piece of the one that I was eating.

“They do not taste like chicken but since they are no longer hopping I will eat them,” he dead panned causing several people to laugh. It was a joke but at the same time it reminded me of the time when I had asked him what foods he liked and his response had been if it didn’t move he would eat it.

We finished the tour with a series of Filipino desserts. Puto sounds like a rude word in Spanish but it is a mildly sweet, steamed cake or muffin that is very simple and only eaten by itself or with a little butter. Taison is a Filipino vesion of a chiffon cake. Leche flan with cream cheese reminds me of the custard flan that many Hispanic cultures have. Kutsinta is a sticky brown cake made from tapioca starch, flour, and sugar. Last it was Halayang Ube made from purple yams, coconut milk, and coconut.

I hadn’t been hungry despite the horseback riding that normally makes me famished, but I hadn’t felt I could be rude by not eating. I also didn’t want to draw the wrong kind of attention. Thus, by the time we got back to the ship I was feeling slightly nauseous. Not wanting to give the wrong impression I didn’t say anything. The noro seems to finally be leveling off and there was no need to cause anyone concern.

The brothers were going to bed after showering and I wanted to do the same. I was in the shower when Vit climbed in with me. I must admit that the attention he paid me felt good. Despite my misgivings I tried to do the same for him, but he hushed me and we climbed out and went on to just sit in the living area for a few moments, only Vit fell asleep and I think I have finally written the day off my chest. I should get him up as his neck is at an akward angle and he is going to get a crick. We remain in port here in Manilla until 2 pm tomorrow. After that is another sea day and then a series of ports in China. I hope whatever these feelings and misgivings I am having subside soon. I do not like this at all.

 

[Kathy in FL]

World Cruise Day 187: Mar 6 – Manila, The Philippines (Day 2)

I have decided to enjoy this for as long as it lasts. If that is forever, then I will be appreciative. If, for whatever reason, that is not the timeline I’ll still appreciate what time there is.

Good Lord, reading that makes me sound like such a drama queen. I just don’t know how else to put my feelings. It also makes me sound like a less than … moral … woman but there again, how it sounds and how I feel are not necessarily in sync. All I know is that I love Vit. And I know he thinks he loves me. I’m just not sure love will be enough to overcome the issues we both have. Or if it is just a complicating factor on our path through life. I do know that today was better than the last two days.

There was no time for morning exercise as we had to meet our transfer at 6:30 am. The brothers were bleery-eyed but eager for the activity. Vit looked much the same, giving Nicholas “the eye” when he momentarily fell back into old habits of being cranky before eating. I was tired but less so than I had been yesterday which for me was a relief. The only problem was that due to the activity I was unable to bring my backpack which made me worry that something would arise that I would be unprepared for. The excursion included a buffet lunch but the description on the brochure had failed more than once to be completely accurate. Finally, we had to scurry off the ship and due to the hour, the van sent to pick us up was the only one waiting.

Our excursion was to visit the World War II-era memorials on Corregidor Island the easy way … by traveling there in a helicopter. After only a short transfer we arrived at the airport and proceeded to the comfortable VIP lounge, where staff conducted a pre-flight safety briefing, explaining the rules and sharing the tips for a safe flight. Of course my last cup of tea hit right at that moment and I had to go to the restroom right as we were ready to board. I wasn’t the only one and with the necessities taken care of we were escorted to the helicopter and the staff introduced us our pilot.

The seatbelt was uncomfortably tight but that is the way the staff adjusted it and I got used to it after a bit of time in the air. The headset felt the same and I realized they’d put me in a child’s size but it was too late to do anything about it. The door closed and the adventure began. We got some nice flyover footage but the ride itself wasn’t as long as the other helicopter rides we’d been on. We quickly sat down on the tarmac and were helped out.

Once we stepped foot out of the helicopter, we were greeted by the professional staff of Corregidor Island and directed to an historical tram tour. During the tram ride we heard details of World War II that I never heard in school and I noted Vit and the brothers were fascinated as well. The tram took us to locations where you can still see various artillery placements, and visit the famous war memorials like Malinta Tunnel, Japanese Garden of Peace, and Battery Hearn. It was after the historical tour that we were taken to the dining area where we were served the aforementioned buffet lunch surrounded by astonishing views of Corregidor Island. The menu was adequate but not what I would call inspiring, or maybe I am simply spoiled at this point. First course was corn chowder. Mains and sides were chop suey, chicken inasal, beef broccoli, pancit bihon, white rice, and salad. For dessert there were rice cakes and watermelon.

From there we made the trip in reverse, used a bit of time waiting for the O’Rourkes and Madam to return before boarding the ship by wandering the duty-free shop, and then helped the older people with their packages to get on the ship right as the ship’s horn sounded final boarding.

When we returned to our cabin we found the package from Dylan waiting for us. I wouldn’t even look at the courier envelope and got a strange look from Vit because of it. I went into the sleep area to put away what I’d purchased … wine tea (black tea flavored with rice wine) … and added the bottles of green tea wine that Vit had left with the steward to the inventory.

Vit eventually followed me in and said, “I have put the papers in the safe.”

“Hmm.”

Without warning Vit turned me and said, “I will not lose you over something so foolish.”

Not even pretending I said, “It isn’t foolish. We should not have put that kind of pressure on you.”

He sighed. “I did not make myself understood. But my words still stand. I will not lose you over this.”

“I haven’t gone anywhere. I haven’t ended anything. I …”

“You no longer trust me.”

“If I didn’t trust you I wouldn’t be standing here half-dressed in your arms. What you do to me is mind blowing but I do still have some morals and scruples. I wouldn’t just …”

He kissed me to shut me up. “Words. You have many and I have not enough to … to fix what I feel is going wrong.”

“Vit …”

“Nii. I know there is something. We will work on it.” He he sighed. “But tonight I am promised to a meeting. If some of the ship’s officers were not going to be there I would not go. But …”

“But it is important. And you need to. Whether for your job or honor or Dylan or whatever it is, you need to. So go. I have Frankie to look after as well. And there is also Nicholas. Just if it is Dylan … don’t let him draw you into one of his deep games. That stuff is his job, not yours. I don’t want me or my family to be what is causing your daily dose of indigestion.”

He kissed me again. “It is not you. And while I do things for Dylan, it is not him either. There are things going on that seem destined to interfere with our plans and it is knowing I can do nothing to stop it that sometimes causing the need for your tablets. And sometimes I simply ignore commonsense and eat things I should not.”

There was a knock on the door and we parted. We haven’t spoken of it again but that is why I said I am choosing to accept and enjoy my time with Vit for as long as it lasts. Because I can see he means what he says. I just really wonder sometimes if what WE want is what will actually wind up BEING.

Madam will be calling me soon to come get Frankie. I could have gone to dinner but just didn’t want to deal with all of the looks and questions … or the topic of conversation which is the economy, yet again. I have enough on my mind without worrying that to death as well. There are times when you must admit you can’t do anything about something and focus on what you can do something about.

 

[Kathy in FL]

World Cruise Day 188: Mar 7 – Cruise the East China Sea

Today’s lessons included geography of the areas we are heading into. Even I learned things as we delved deeper than my initial outline. There are three Chinas seas; South China, East China, and the Yellow Sea. We have now travered two of the three … the South and East. Tomorrow we go to our first Chinese port which is Xiamen. The “X” makes an “sh” sound so Xiamen is prounced Sha mun. Not quite “shaman” but close. Wikipedia says, “The city is known for its mild climate, Hokkien culture and Gulangyu Island, as well as its relatively low pollution.” I suppose we will find out tomorrow as that is our destination.

There were a few new cases of noro but the crew now believes they know where it is coming from. One of the suite passengers (different deck from us) were having card parties and had several smuggled-aboard bottles of liquor they were using. Between bottles, hands, glasses, playing cards, etc. they would infect their guests who would in turn touch railings, light switches, and other common areas and spread it further. Those infected have been confined to quarters and all areas are on target to be extensively sanitized. I refuse to let up on my extra precautions until there have been no cases for a week. All it takes is one infected person to start the cycle all over again so call me an OCD germaphobe; I don’t care.

The Fitness Center remains closed for a few more days, as are the hot tubs. Nicholas has been jogging the promenade deck a couple of times a day when it is least traveled. He surprisingly has not complained as he says he is working on stamina and lung capacity. Okay. More power to him. If it gets the wiggles out then hurray. Luckily Frankie is still content to swim, practice the self defense moves I teach him, and do a little yoga. Thankfully he no longer thinks of yoga as “something just for girls.” He still likes to think about birds or watch the seabirds while he does it but that’s okay too. His foot isn’t turning in as much and he is filling out rather than looking like a twig version of a boy. I notice the yoga helps to calm the nervous energy he sometimes develops.

Vit and I sparred again today on Deck 9. It wasn’t quite as energetic as we have been in the past – we are both being too careful – but it was still something more than whatever it is we’ve been the last couple of days. Afterwards Vit also insisted the brothers could eat by themselves, he wanted us to go over our lists for the coming ports. He said it like that too – “us go over our” lists. I know it is stupid but when he says it like that, little knots inside me seem to unwind. Ridiculous.

I did discover something that had escaped me up to this point when Vit, with some embarrassment, asked me to consider buying bamboo sheets.

“Excuse me?”

“Ah … it does not matter.”

“Wait … I just … what are ‘bamboo sheets’?”

Haltingly he explained they were sheets made of fabric which itself was made from bamboo.

“Isn’t that … itchy?”

“Nii. The opposite. And it is cool. I slept on them on the yacht. They were … good.”

“Do they help you sleep? Is that what you are saying?”

“Not exactly Kokhana. But they do make it easier to sleep on some nights.” The he added, “They are not a need.”

Then and there I decided they were and looked at him pointedly and then just as pointedly marked them in our rather short column of “needs” instead of the longer column of “wants.” Then I surprised him further by leaning over and kissing his cheek.

“You do things for me that aren’t necessities. I will do this for you.”

Well that earned me some incoherent with embarrassment Ukrainian mush. It didn’t last long because we refocused on the list. Vit did request that I postpone my idea of buying OTC meds and antibiotics to take home, at least until after the China ports.

“It may be that the things you wish to purchase are good, but quality in China can be questionable as well if a local boss is squeezing a supplier. Bangkok is better, more reliable in my experience.”

Having wondered before I finally asked, “How many of the upcoming ports have you visited?”

“I did not go as a visitor. Crew experience of a port is different from a tourist.”

“Fine. You’ve said that before. I’ll modify my question. How many have you been to?”

“Several.” Seeing the look on my face he added, “Not all. But enough to understand that the reputation of some are warranted. Trust me on this.”

“I do.”

“Do you?” he asked looking suddenly troubled.

“Trusting you is not a problem. Let us get back to …”

“Nii. I have pushed you away. The same as I pushed Anichka away.”

The pain in Vit’s voice was real. The only thing I could do was share something that I’ve rarely shared with anyone. “You didn’t push Anichka away. She followed the wrong people, made her own choices, and got addicted to a bad drug. The drug became more important than anything else. I know it sounds cruel but … sometimes we have to suffer the consequences of our choices to the bitter end. Have I ever told you? About Momma? Momma … became addicted to the pain medications. It escaped the monitoring some how. Not even Poppa and I noticed … or wanted to notice … at first. Once we realized what was happening we had to watch her closely and somehow, as crippled and bedridden as she was, she still managed to get one or two - or more – pain pills than she was supposed to have every day. Because she was bedridden … hadn’t been able to get around very well for a while … her circulation was compromised. The pain medications compromised them even more. Yes, she needed the palliative care the pain meds offered, but too much only made her health worse, not better.” I sighed. “She knew how to talk people into giving her one more pill. When the brats came over, the grandchildren they were easy to manipulate because of who she was and how they couldn’t stand her hurting. She even started … lying … to achieve her goal. As each one finally started holding the line on not giving her a pill when she asked for one she started … not feeling up to company … if they came by. That was her way of … of … making people sorry they wouldn’t do what she wanted, what she thought she needed. Poppa and I tried to cover it up but of course Derrick realized what was happening … how it was destroying Poppa’s spirit to see her in pain and know much of it was now because of the addiction and not just the disease. We had to lock the pills up and only Poppa and I had a key. Momma didn’t mean … look, she was sick, and she was … tired; mentally, physically, and I think emotionally as well. She … a part of her anyway … gave up and went for the thing that numbed the pain the easiest. That’s how Anichka was Vit. She was looking for the thing that numbed the pain the easiest. And in the end, taking the easy way got her; the same way it got Momma. Momma … Momma …” I had to stop and clear my throat.

Starting again I explained, “Momma could have lived months more, but the addiction took time off of her life.”

“Because of the circulation?”

“Yes. It caused a type of septic shock and … and her organs began to shut down straining her already decreased function. The end came faster and faster … and then arrived abruptly when none of us were prepared.” I sighed. “I was angry that we’d lost months with her none of us could ever get back … but then Poppa got sick and he was going so fast that I didn’t have time to stop and think. It took me years to really admit how angry I was … and how some of that was anger at Momma. It was a righteous anger at the injustice, but it also … I just had trouble running from that anger. The problem was that I wasn’t just running from the anger, I ran from everything that reminded me of the anger and that wasn’t any healthier than the way Momma had handled her pain.” I put my hand over Vit’s. “Don’t let it take more years for you. Stop carrying Anichka’s chains for her and making them yours. If all you are doing is trying to take responsibility for Anichka, you’ll forget to deal with the things that come up in your own life. You’ll never be able to answer for her choices, you can only answer for your own. And you didn’t chase Anichka away, you were only trying to provide a safe place for her to finish growing up while you were still little more than a boy yourself. She just didn’t get the chance because in part, she chose another path.”

I could see him trying to control strong emotion before he asked, “Then why are you leaving? If I am not pushing then why?”

“I am not leaving.”

“That is not what I sense.”

“Okay, how’s this? I am not leaving. But you are not the only one with … issues.”

“What does that mean?”

“It means that I don’t want to push YOU away by smothering you. I’m trying to … not give in to those fears. Can’t we just leave it at that?”

He was silent for so long I dreaded another argument/non-argument but he surprised me. “We will leave it for now. But why? Why do you keep saying you will … smother me? Have I said such to you?”

I snorted. “You may eventually have to. The way others have had to. I miss social cues telling me when I am being too much for people. And no, I’m not exaggerating. Too many people have told me too many times that I am guilty of missing boundaries, cues, the things that would keep me in check and not in someone else’s space too much. I hug too much. I hug the wrong people. I like holding hands and not everyone finds it appropriate. I kiss people. I touch them, get in their space, I talk too much and too often. I … I don’t mean any harm but I just … forget to respect personal boundaries.”

“People have said these things to you?” he asked, like he couldn’t conceive of it being the truth.

“Yes. They have. Roommates. Friends. In-laws. Even … Robert. So see? I am not imagining things. I just don’t ever want to be the thing that destroys … this … between us. If that means that I must …”

“Nii!” he growled. “But … I can see from your face that you have had enough.”

Feeling defeated I told him, “Go ahead. Say what you need to.”

“What I want … need … Kokhana is to carry you to your bed and ravish you until you understand that I am a man that will not tolerate anything standing between us … will not let anyone stand between us. Not even ourselves. I will not lose you. To do so it to invite madness. Does that idea not smother you?”

Beginning to wonder if I had stepped into the twilight zone or better, was dreaming about one of Angelia’s bodice-rippers, “No. Why should it?”

He sighed. “Then stop thinking that anything that you could do would smother me. You treat me as a man. You do things for me as a wife would. You care That is what I wish. It is what I have been longing for.”

And with impeccable timing I was called to pick up Frankie. And hot-dream central came crashing back to reality land.

Vit was promised to another poker game, but only as an observer. He wondered whether to go but then said he must. He needs to keep Nicholas from being pulled in and I think he uses the poker games to gather information for Dylan. I fear that one day soon I will need to tell Dylan to go find another chess piece. But I’ll let Vit handle it for now.

Frankie has been content to draw and watch a documentary. It has given me time to sort out my thoughts and get them down in some kind of order. I just hope it is all in the right order.

 

[Kathy in FL]

World Cruise Day 189: Mar 8 – Xiamen, China

People overload. Language overload. Cultural overload. The old adage that if you don’t use it, you lose it? Yeah, pretty much that as well. Mandarin has never been my strongest language. I can do it, but it is plodding and must be by dictation since I don’t read it. But translating students who are trying to make it easy on you by speaking slowly and distinctly is vastly different than trying to translate “in the wild.” I did well enough not to blow a fuse or say something incredibly rude, but I got a few laughs for my efforts which says I must have sounded awful. The older people and some of the shopkeepers seemed to appreciate my efforts, or I at least provided some comic relief. People closer to my own age were not as interested, and in fact I had one to tell me coldly to stop, I was making too much work for her, and that it was easier for her to speak English than it was to waste time translating my deficient Mandarin. Ouch.

That level of rudeness has been rare on this trip … barring the Harrington issue … so I was taken aback, especially after feeling so good that things are returning to normal between Vit and I. I smoothed things over by apologizing, that I had simply not wanted to be yet another arrogant tourist. The girl seemed to calm down after that and we even ended on a high note comparing our university schedules. In the end I think I’ll put her rudeness down to cultural differences and the stress she is under during exams and still having to work to help support her mother and little brother. Everyone should get at least a little grace. I know I need it, so I’ll offer it to others.

We didn’t arrive in port until 8 am which meant we did not have to inhale our breakfast like Momma’s old Hoover vacuum. I wouldn’t call it leisurely but there was no back pounding or hiemlich maneuvers during our meal because food missed a turn due to speeding. We returned very briefly to our cabins to grab a small string bag since large backpacks were not allowed, and then hurried to catch our first excursion of the day. The first thing I noticed was all the large and modern buildings. I thought we wouldn’t see that until Hong Kong, but it wasn’t the first time on this cruise that I’ve had to adjust my assumptions. The second thing was the odd color to the sky and the less that pleasant after taste in my mouth from breathing whatever was causing the color.

“Ah, the smog is not so bad.”

“This isn’t bad?” I asked Vit incredulously staring at haze like I hadn’t seen since LA.

“Nii. Last time I was here three of the crew members had to have breathing treatments and one of the guests would not stop moaning about needing to see her dermatologist for something called a pore treatment.”

“You listened to her enough to remember that?”

He sighed as we trudged through security. “None of us had a choice. She was very … strident.”

It was hard not to snicker at the look on Vit’s face and then I realized he was doing it on purpose to make me smile. So I did. It seemed to brighten his day. What didn’t was that we were on different excursions.

“You will be careful.”

What sounded, on its surface, like an order was actually a plea. I responded, “Wǒ huì fēicháng xiǎoxīn de.”

He blinked in shock and then said, “Ah. Hidden … talents.”

I snorted, “Only a little hidden … and rusty, but I won’t be completely helpless should we get separated from the group.”

He grimaced. “Do not get separated.”

To that I said, “Dlya tebe, yakshcho ni.” Which means “For your sake if no other.”

He got the message. But though he still looked his normal stoic self I could still see the concern lurking in his eyes. And I meant it, if for no other reason than his concern I woud be on double alert. But I did have other reasons, starting with a 9-year-old boy whose head was moving so much he looked like the bobbles that Devin used to collect.

Luckily we seemed to have been assigned a guide with the utmost commonsense and patience … with a nephew and two grandsons and he was more than a match for Frankie. He made our first excursion of the day dynamic and high-interest despite the fact that at first glance it would have seemed a tour for older adults and fussy women.

We were treated to an overview of the city of Xiamen which straddles islands at the Jiulong River’s mouth. The guide book calls it one of China’s most fascinating cities, but then again it said that about a lot of cities. One of the stand out features of Xiamen is that it has salty sea breezes, rocky promontories and gleaming glass towers. We drove to the city’s heart to enjoy a stop at Bailuzhou Park, a large green space that is one of China’s national key parks and features several attractions to explore. The guide taught Frankie – and the rest of us – the proper way to greet people in his culture, especially elders or those that hold a particular status above you.

Ettiquette and protocol in the Chinese culture is dictated by the five major relationships set forth by Confucius: ruler, father, friend, husband, brother, sister. Furthermore, there are special cultural concepts you need to understand: First is guanxi, the fundamental concept of how society is held together by relationships between people. Second comes mianxi, or face. Think of it as a type of pride issue; losing face, saving face and giving face is very important and should be taken into consideration at all times. Next is Li which original means sacrifice but is now translated as the art of being polite and courteous. Basically it means that proper etiquette preserves harmony and face. I don’t necessarily disagree with that but it is taken to a completely different level in Asia. Lastly is Keqi; Ke means guest and qi means behavior. It not only the behavior of being considerate, polite, and well mannered, but also includes humbleness and modesty.

Chinese culture has rules for practically everything. It goes well beyond grammar such as tu in Spanish for a familiar form of the pronous you and usted for a formal form of the pronoun you. The purpose of Chinese rules are to keep things in harmony. Taken to extremes however it can be misused such as when it is used to institute and control a class structure. I had studied further during graduate school but the overview was enough for Frankie and the other passengers with us. For me it was a reminder of how different things were over here and to watch my p’s and q’s. Of course apparently you can do too much of that as well and that’s how I got put in my place a bit with my rusty Mandarin.

After the park we made a short stop at Zhongshan Road shopping district, and with our etiquette lessons in hand, we had free time to browse the busy pedestrian area. The only thing I really fell in love with were some lengths of the famous pearl embroideried fabric. I could not believe the prices I was seeing. I have helped Angelia sew wedding dresses and veils and I know what yardage of beaded fabric costs. Having had to help repair such fabric I also know what kind of work goes into it. And then I saw it and no matter how I kept telling myself I was being ridiculous, especially after our recent contretemps, I bought it without even trying it on. A dress. A dress that could pass as a wedding dress. I also bought yardage to make a matching veil. No, it wasn’t Ukrainian but whomever I wind up giving my hand to is going to get a mixed bag … yes, I was born Ukrainian, but I was adopted and raised by Poppa and Momma. Both places, and all the people, are part of who I am.

Frankie wasn’t paying attention to what I was buying but was instead looking at shawls and asked, “Do you think … Mother would like something like this?”

As kindly as I could I answered, “I’m not sure. She seems a very practical sort of woman.”

“She is,” he said offhanded. “But she also likes to dress up and go to fundraising parties with all the other professors and grad students. Can you help me … for … for Mother’s Day? And I’ll get one for Granmother and Miss Hayworth too … but this one for Mother. Please?”

I explained to the salesman what he wanted, and the man turned shrewd eyes on Frankie before nodding wisely.

Our purchases weren’t cheap but I think were a good investment for both of us. But we wouldn’t have had time to do much more shopping anyway was we were off to our next stop, the Nanputuo Temple, a Buddhist complex perched atop a rocky outcrop overlooking the city that is important to the Fujian community here. The views were both beautiful and intimidating. We were allowed to admire its colorful pavilions and halls with tiled roofs and manicured gardens and walkways. When I finally remembered the word I had been searching my memory banks for all morning … Piàoliang. It is a word for beautiful that means transcendently lovely. The old monk that had been guiding us around looked pleased with my phrasing.

Soon after it was a quick drive to the ferry for our next excursion. Those that weren’t going with us were taken to a bus to go back to the ship. The rest of us, plus those that were added, were ushered aboard the ferry for a ride to the island of Gulangyu. Once we arrived we were switched to an electric-powered cart to drive around the elegant island and examine the natural beauty and architecture.

Cars and bicycles are banned on this eco-friendly island, so it was a bit like stepping back in time, except it was easy to find the modern influences as well. Sometimes referred to as “Piano Island” because of the legacy left by classical musicians, who took over the island in the 1900s, Gulangyu has been designated a Historic International Settlement since 1903. We were called on to admire the many European-style buildings found throughout the island, as well as stroll around the seaside Shuzhuang Garden, exploring its Hidden Sea and Bushan displays. Formerly a private villa, the garden features a lake, several pavilions, a viewing tower and many charming bridges. I do not believe I have ever seen so many pianos in one location, not even in a piano factory I once visited. The collection of pianos was donated by Hu Youyi—from pieces owned by German royalty to a 19th-century Steinway. Several were works of art in and of themselves.

Afterwards we were allowed to wander through Gulangyu’s quaint Old Town area. I spotted a food stall that looked to be popular with locals and I got what I thought Frankie would be able to eat on the go … Spring Rolls. I found a couple of pieces of sheet music before we had to reboard the ferry, get back to Xiamen, and then back to the ship.

I am still deciding whether to be flattered or insulted by the level of relief that Vit expressed once we were back in the cabin. He asked about my day in detail but did not leave me time to ask about his before he had to get to dinner, especially after he was relieved to find out that Frankie and I would be dining privately tonight in the cabin.

Something is going on. I don’t know what, but it is something. He is better at hiding it than the brats but that doesn’t mean I can’t sense that something is definitely going on. I’m going to give it a little more time and then I am going to see what it is. If it is me, I need to know. If it isn’t, I at least need to know that as well. And if it is my family up to something again … I have pictures. Lots and lots of pictures that Momma saved from over the years. I am certain there are pictures in there that would like to see the light of day again. In fact I have a few I’ve kept in reserve for just in case. It just better not be my family. I’m sure a couple of the brats still regret the year parachute pants came back into temporary style … and if they don’t, they will.

 

[Kathy in FL]

World Cruise Day 190: Mar 9 – Hong Kong, China (Day 1)

Hong Kong. Hong Kong, China. As Charlie would say, “I kid you freaking not.” I’m sitting here on the top deck staring out at the lights of one of the largest, busiest cities in the world. Me. Little Veta the Ukrainian Orphan Girl. Thought to be blind, deaf, and all but mute. Now with a master’s in Education and in Hong Kong as a traveling tutor. Wow. Sometimes I look at my life and think it just has to be a piece of fiction. There’s no way I could have come as far as I have, both literally and figuratively.

Frankie is in bed in his cabin. He is one tired boy. Nicholas and Vit are somewhere around but I suspect both will need to go to bed shortly. Their morning is as early as ours. Me? Let’s just say I should have stuck with decaff and leave it at that.

We didn’t arrive in port until 1 pm. The seas weren’t rough, but they weren’t calm either but since we berthed in Hong Kong it didn’t matter significantly. I spent the morning playing catch up while the others, including Vit, slept in. I have got to get to the bottom of this thing with Vit. Something is stressing him. I don’t think anyone else notices, but I do. But at least I got him up in a good mood. Shut up you dirty minded people. It was breakfast in bed with all his favorites is all. Really. No really. He had a smile on his face is all I’m saying so shut up.

Brunch was all any of our party wanted but I did ask everyone to at least eat some fruit or drink a smoothie for “lunch” just to be on the safe side. Today was going to be a long day even with starting late. The daily newsletter was full of security do’s and don’ts and I was satisfied that both Nicholas and Frankie knew what was expected of them. I shouldn’t treat Nicholas the same way I do Frankie, and I don’t really, but he is so American-centric that I’m always worried he is going to commit some unintentional faux pax and get in trouble that we can’t get him out of.

After finally disembarking they went their way and Frankie and I made it over to our group for what remained of the day. First came the Vintage Tram where we enjoyed a scenic ride along the northern side of Hong Kong Island. I don’t know if I would call it a tram. It was actually a vintage double-decker bus, though dissimilar in size to the ones in London being significantly smaller. It took us for a tour of the northern districts. Our guide spoke excellent, if accented, English and pointed out landmarks and related the area’s history as we wound our way from the Western Market to Causeway Bay, then back again. Then a highlight I hadn’t expected as it wasn’t in my packet; we had an amazing eight-course meal at a local restaurant. By the time I got out of there won tons were floating behind my eyes.

But it was good to be refueled as from there we headed to Hong Kong’s “Golden Mile,” also known as Nathan Road. This two-mile stretch is a cacophony of nearly chaotic colored neon signs, shops, boutiques, cafés and restaurants. Our destination was the bustling Temple Street Night Market. The market features rows of brightly lit stalls displaying a variety of inexpensive goods such as clothing, jewelry and electronics. I felt nearly manic as the tea at the restaurant had been very good, very black, and very strong. I had fun expending that excess energy exploring the market during our free time, another unexpected gift that wasn’t in the tour description.

My Mandarin, poor as it was, was welcomed by everyone here and both vendors and customers had fun haggling over prices. Frankie practiced his manners and even helped an older Chinese lady and her granddaughter that had gotten pushed down by some loud mouth youths that were playing some kind of game as they rushed through the streets, not caring about the mess they left in their wake.

One of the first things I spotted were the bamboo sheet sets Vit had mentioned. I knew it was a gimmick when I saw them because Chinese beds aren’t the same as the huge mattress sets we have in the States. That much I knew from the Chinese students that I went to university with. But they were still an excellent price compared with such sheet sets back home. I looked them up online and not even the big box stores could compete with what I was seeing. That would be one less thing on the list that I have been sending to Angelia. In addition to the sheet sets (I picked up three), there were racks and packages of bamboo fabric clothing. I picked Vit up some t-shirts and underclothing. It made Frankie blush until I winked at him and said that sometimes I liked to tease my brothers.

He had a speculatively naughty look on his face until I told him, “Oh no you don’t. That’s my trick. Find your own to torment Nicholas with.” The innocent look Frankie turned on me almost makes me feel sorry for Nicholas, but then again nope … I hope they have fun with whatever Frankie dreams up.

About that time Frankie spotted one of those fortune cats, the ones that sit up and wave, and he bought three; one for him, one for Nicholas, and one for Francine. He also got himself a moon cake which prompted me to buy some additional snacks for our supplies since we were once again thinning out the inventory. First came some White Rabbit Cream Candy. It is hard when it first goes in your mouth but once the rice paper wrapping melts it becomes a creamy mess … or so Frankie demonstrated with the piece that our guide gave him. Then there was a wide variety of gummy candies in flavors both expected and unexpected - pineapple, blueberry, green apple, peach and lychee. They are shaped like licorice drops but are definitely gummies. Want-Want Rice Crackers are blasted addictive. They remind me of the Christmas Crack that Bianca makes from saltines at Christmas, only these are from rice crackers. I told Vit he needs to lock them up or I will eat them all with predictable results. I got a couple of bags of what is called “Instant Dry Noodles” for Nicholas to try. I’m not sure I’ll go near them, they sound awful though they are popular as well. I suppose I’ll look for a few other things in the next couple of days. I had enough to carry except I wasn’t finished shopping. Our guide seemed to be delighted and was happy to introduce me to a few of his long-time friends and neighbors.

I got a very nice set of chopsticks, the kind you wash and reuse. The brothers and Vit knew I wasn’t above using chopsticks, or making my own, if we were short a spork. For two years one of my roommates came and went from the apartment depending on if she was fighting with her brother and I learned to eat very efficiently because she had a bad habit of using the communal eating utensils for her biology products. Ew, ‘nuff said.

A nice lady introduced me to the goji berry. I already knew what they were, but I’d never seen them in the form she offered … dried, liquid concentrate, powdered, extract powder, and juice. I was concerned that I wouldn’t be able to get it back on the ship due to restrictions but with that in mind she showed me the export/import stamps on some of the products. I was nearly finished there until I saw … drumroll please … real … Chinese … tea … in bulk. Oh my goodness. I am not a tea snob. Really I’m not. Don’t listen to Angelia or the others. I am simply as picky about my tea as most of them are about their coffee.

There was black tea, green tea, white tea, yellow tea, oolong, herbal and medicinal, and so many infusions (including flower teas) I dare not even try to catalog them all. Frankie started laughing. I turned to tell him that I would not comment on his dedication to ice cream if he didn’t comment on my tea only instead of looking down I had to look up. Nicholas was riding Frankie around piggie back.

“Nicholas really,” as I began to worry at the inappropriate jocularity.

“It’s okay Miss Veta. We got him some ice cream.”

“Naturally. Afterwards you may be the one to try and keep him leashed. Now where is …”

That’s when Vit rumbled a good humored, “Here.”

He had his own packages but wanted to look at the teas as well. “The boys will stay with their Grandmother and the O’Rourkes. Have you eaten?”

“A great deal and all of it very good thanks to Mr. Lee’s excellent suggestions. May I introduce him?”

I proceeded to introduce Vit to our guide, as well as several of the shopkeepers that I’d already met. Mr. Lee was aware of what I was doing. Chinese culture makes it difficult to do business with strangers, but a good introduction and a few politely exchanged phrases and you are no longer a stranger … and you get better deals. With Mr. Lee acting as guide, and interpreter when necessary, we did a great deal more shopping though Vit’s was more expensive than my own. We bought a large amount of tea and I was happy for it and made no objection when Vit insisted on paying. The supply of tea that I’d brought from home months ago was running out since it was being used by two, and both of us drinking more than one cup a day … sometimes several. If I didn’t care, the ship’s tea would do, but I suppose I really am picky.

Vit bought several pieces of jade and had an eye for the good stuff. My Mandarin, basic though it is, helped me to overhear that Mr. Lee would be getting a cut of a couple of the sales. Vit encouraged me when I got a little lost in a silk fabric shop and I walked out with yards of several different patterns and colors as well as some ready-made items like a couple of sets of silk pajamas and a Chinese silk dress. That was it for me as I was still suffering severe sticker shock at what it totaled. It isn’t a waste and the silk supply will last years. And some of it is for Angelia. But that’s the most I’ve spent. There is also the issue of space. Vit says he will purchase another trunk and I’m thinking that is only going to give us an excuse to buy more stuff. At least they wrapped the silk in tissue paper.

Frankie and I parted from Vit and the rest since we were all on different excursions but we were all heading back to the ship so Frankie and I were still able to assist with their purchases which were bulkier than my own. It seemed everyone was coming back on board with packages, boxes, and bags so security was very busy and the line was long.

My charge agreed to go to his cabin with no complaints which I was relieved to see. I think Nicholas would have as well except he and Vit were promised to some type of Chinese wine tasting thing or other. And yes, I am tired as you can see my grammar is taking a nose dive. I believe the tea has worn off and I’m going to the cabin to get some sleep. Packing away our purchases is going to have to wait for another day.

 

[Kathy in FL]

World Cruise Day 191: Mar 10 – Hong Kong, China (Day 2)

Argh, my aching feet and back. My Skechers are not holding up to this trip. My black flats are nearly toast though they should be able to get another month out of them if I only use them for walking around here on the ship such as for dinner. My walking shoes are getting flat tires where the soles are wearing, and the memory foam cushion is developing dementia. That’s what Momma used to call it when her “memory foam” shoes would start to break down. It is like walking barefoot on concrete for miles. The bottom of my feet feel bruised. I have a feeling that by the end of the cruise I will be relying nearly exclusively on the hiking shoes I got to replace the last set of Skeechers that gave out. I wish I had given in and purchased an extra pair back in San Diego but that’s on me.

We had all day in Hong Kong and tomorrow we’ll be here until mid-day at which time we will finally pull out of port. If we don’t get out of here soon Vit and I are going to purchase so many things we really will need that second trunk. Ugh.

Morning came very early. Particularly early for those that made the choice to stay up late. And the aromas of the “real” Hong Kong didn’t do anything but make some people wish they had stayed in bed. Our morning excursion of was tour of a traditional wet market. A fixture in Chinese neighborhoods, wet markets are outdoor markets made up of diverse, independently owned stands selling fresh, locally sourced raw meats, seafood and produce. Derrick flipped out when he found out I was going to one an made me promise to not touch anything and not to get anything on me. I drew the line when he wanted me to wear a mask. No. Sorry Big Bro. I promised the other, but I wasn’t going to get dressed up like a character from a movie called “Outbreak.”

Derrick still remembers the localized epidemics of birdflu that originated in several wet markets. It is difficult to forget when the birdflu finally jumped from birds to humans and then from humans to humans. It didn’t get much further than that, but it came close. It was simply so bad, so fast that it burnt out quickly and since the virus didn’t live outside the human body for very long, the dead couldn’t continue to infect and spread further. Plus a lot of mandatory sanitation practices are now the law, especially here in Asia. Everyone still remembers the Covid Pandemic of the 2020’s and how things were never completely the same again, especially in China and the countries it strongly influenced.

We got off the ship and joined a group that immediately started walking, winding up among the tightly packed aisles while perusing the wide range of fruits and vegetables on display. Most of them looked familiar but some of them didn’t. It was so noisy that I couldn’t really pick out words to try and translate. There was a lot of lively banter between proprietors and customers.

Afterward we headed to a local restaurant where we had a breakfast of dim sum—bite-sized, steamed or fried buns filled with beef, chicken, pork, seafood or vegetables. I managed to get both Frankie and Nicholas to sample several varieties without any fuss at all. Despite the raw meat market we had left behind. On the way back to the ship we learned about the evolution of Hong Kong dining while sampling some additional Chinese food treats; BBQ pork, cart-noodle, deep fried dough in rice sheet roll, Dai Pai Dong mill tea, freeze drinks, Chinese bakery delicacies. Then it was back to the ship where we parted company for quite some hours. Vit took a breath as if to say something then simply looked at me and put his hand over his chest. The message was clear. Be careful because he cared. I nodded while doing the same to him. It was enough.

Nearly too much as I had to be called twice to get to our next excursion which was another walking tour. We climbed aboard our transfer vehicle and at the starting point we were greeted by the smell of incense at Man Mo Temple—Hong Kong’s oldest and most famous. The temple is dedicated to the God of Literature (Man) and the God of War (Mo), both of whom were worshipped by ambitious students looking to succeed in the civil examinations in the Ming and Qing dynasties. Gave me a creepy feeling to think about worshipping man as a diety until I realized that it is done at least as often in these modern times (athletes, movie stars, political figures) as it was then. That didn’t make me feel any better and perhaps even a little more creeped out.

Next we took a stroll through antique shops, art galleries and curio shops along Hollywood Road before being introduced to the Hong Kong Escalator, a “the people mover,” or moving sidewalk, that is the longest outdoor covered escalator system in the world. After playing on it for a bit we changed directions and walked down Pottinger Street, better known by locals as the Stone Slabs Street. From there we went to Li Yuen Market. Yep, another market. At least I got a history lesson to go along with spending my money. Li Yuen is the first street named after a Chinese member of society in colonial Hong Kong. Kim Li Yuen was a wealthy Chinese businessman who engaged in foreign trade in the late 1800’s and early 1900s.

I bought more tea and some nice silk lingerie (that Frankie pretended not to notice) and helped Frankie pick up a couple of things for himself. But what really drew my attention is what I did not buy. First came the live crabs from a vending machine. And no, none of the tea I had been drinking had the funny stuff in it. There really was a vending machine selling live crabs. They came out in these plastic capsules. Just too weird. And speaking of funny tea, the next thing I did not buy was Panda tea … made from Panda poo. I’m not kidding about that either. And if drinking it didn’t gag me the price surely would have; over $70,000.00 for one pound. No. Not even if I was as wealthy as the Marchands.

The next thing had to be a joke but then again, I’m not sure. Chinese humor can be odd, and so can the things they are actually serious about. But the “canned air” walked that narrow line that left me a little in doubt which one is was supposed to be. Then there were the live turtle key rings. I had to put my foot down with Frankie on that one, reminding him of restrictions about what could be brought on board. I had a suspicion he wanted to rescue as many as he could, but I told him buying them and releasing them was also a death sentence.

As bad as the panda tea was there was another one that made me shake my head; tea picked by the mouth of a virgin. The Jiuhua tea plantation in the Henan Province hires virgins with C-cup breasts to pick tea by grabbing the leaves with their lips and then dropping them into a wicker basket nestled between their breasts. I swear I’m not making this stuff up. The women can not touch the leaves or the basket with their hands, and in addition to specifically requesting C-cup breasts, the plantation also requires that the women have no visible scars or wounds. According to the spokesperson for the company, this odd requirement comes from a legend about how the tea used to be picked by the mouths of fairies. With this method, the tea is supposed to be infused with the virility and purity of the virgins, which is then passed on to the person who drinks the tea. All I can say is that the Obama Fried Chicken and “dwarf tours” seemed tame by comparison. As one travel guide stated it, “From morally ambiguous dwarfism to vaguely racist copyright infringement, China truly has it all.”

When our free time in the market was over, we crossed back towards our ship by taking the famous Star Ferry across Victoria Harbor. I’d had enough and wanted to unload our packages so we went through security, made our way to the cabins and dumbed things on our beds so we could hussle and get a milkshake. We were both hungry enough for a full meal since we had missed lunch; however, our evening excursion included a meal.

After a quick wash up and change of clothes we left the ship and met our tour group to “experience the energy and atmosphere of Hong Kong after the sun goes down.” I found out a couple of facts tonight that blow me away. Hong Kong is home to 7.4 million people. I know the place is big but that’s an incredible statistic. And our dinner tonight was in one of the 16,000 restaurants in the city.

I’m glad we hadn’t eaten any heavier that we had because they changed the order of things. Our excursion started with a meal instead of ending it with one. It was an eight-course traditional Peking duck dinner. I nearly started quacking, but the meal really was delicious. I was so full I could have rolled through the next part, but the exercise helped with digestion. We took a walk to the harbor where we witnessed Hong Kong’s skyline light up during the display called “Symphony of Lights,” a multimedia spectacle composed of lights, lasers, holograms and searchlights synced to music. Frankie was quite pleased.

Afterwards we headed back to Nathan Road and the Temple Street Night Market. I saw Mr. Lee with another tour group and helped him with a lady that only spoke Spanish. She wasn’t from our ship but was from another one in the harbor. He was politely grateful and I managed to help him and the some of the other vendors make some nice sales. After the deals they’d given me I wasn’t adverse at all.

Frankie was dragging by the time we got back on the ship and I told him that he could upload pictures tomorrow since we were sailing in the afternoon instead of the evening. Not a peep of complaint which tells you just how tired my student was. I was leaving the cabin and nearly ran into Nicholas who looked nearly as bedraggled as his little brother. Frankie was already in the shower so Nicholas poured himself into a chair to wait his turn.

“Everything okay?” I asked.

“Mr. D and I played Sherpa for Grandmother and the O’Rourkes. I’m beat.”

I laughed. “But did you have a good time with the ladies?”

“Huh?”

“The lipstick on your cheek is a little too red for the ladies of a certain age Madam has as friends.”

“Aw gawd,” he said scrubbing at the offending blot on his face. “It was fun … until they decided to embarrass the American Kid.” I looked the question at him. “Some Spanish girls. I think they were Spanish. Mr. D said they were … right before he growled at their … I don’t know what they were but I think they were supposed to be chaperones. Man. Not even the girls at school dressed like that.”

“Like what?”

“I think they were trying to dress up like anime characters but they kinda looked like hen … never mind.”

Sighing and rolling my eyes I suspected what he hadn’t meant to let slip out. “Please tell me you do not look at that trash?”

“Uh uh. One of the guys on our floor at school did. Coach promised that if he ever caught any of us with porn he’d bench us for half a season just on principle and the other half for being stupid. Then he gave us all the ‘facts of life’ talk then brought in the girls’ coach for that side of the story, made us take a quiz on it, and write a paper on any answer we got wrong, and that was enough for most of us. Man. Coach was brutal.”

I didn’t laugh but it was a close thing. I left the cabin just in time to see Vit coming down the hallway with a worried look on his face. He spotted me and his face cleared and he smiled when I helped him carry the bags he had in his hand.

“Are these Madam’s or yours?”

“Ours.”

Casually I asked, “What had you looking upset?”

“I thought you and the boy were still out and Customs is boarding a yacht in the harbor.”

“Oh dear. I really wish people would follow the rules.”

“Hmm. Could be anything and I am just glad you are back. Would you care to get a drink, or do you need to watch the boy?”

“Frankie is asleep on his feet and taking a shower and is then going to bed. Nicholas looks to be in the same condition. I suspect neither one of them will last long enough to remember to get out their clothes for tomorrow.”

“Then they will have less time for breakfast in the morning.” As I got our door opened his asked, “You did eat?”

“Plenty. Did you?”

“Too much. Ah …”

“Vit, you … you should have someone look at your stomach.”

He kissed me as he sat the bags down and headed for the bathroom. “I should have more sense than to be talked into trying the hot sauce.”

I sighed thinking yes you should but didn’t say I told you so as I heard the bottle of antacids rattling as he opened them. Instead I turned my eye to the bags and was still staring at them when Vit walked back in. “What do you think Kokhana?”

“We’re going to need a bigger trunk,” I answered as the theme from “Jaws” played through my head.

That got me another kiss and he said, “I have seen you do magic to pack.”

“Magic is one thing but it is pure fantasy to think we are going to have enough room in the trunk if we keep shopping like we are.”

He nodded in agreement and said, “Not all ports will be like this. But I may have the answer.”

“Which is?”

“One of the men in the poker games …”

“Vit.”

“Nii. It is not like that. He and his wife packed two extra trunks of … er … consumables. They will be exiting the ship in Mumbai to visit family. He said the trunk is sturdy but unsightly. I am exchanging a few bottles of wine for it.”

“Your wine? But …”

“Bartering is a good thing Kokhana. Let me do this.”

“I’m not going to stop you, I just don’t want you to trade something you bought for yourself.”

“The wine is an investment. It is already paying dividends.”

I nodded and let him make the deal his way. That was certainly better than using our cash. And as much as it would have been fun to spend some time relaxing together, we have one more day in port to get through tomorrow though as I mentioned to Nicholas that the sailaway was at 1 pm. Vit is out of the shower and I’ve already taken mine so I sincerely hope we can both get some sleep.

​

 

[Kathy in FL]

World Cruise Day 192: Mar 11 – Hong Kong, China (Day 3)

Short day in port for our final day in Hong Kong but I think everyone was ready except for a couple who called Hong Kong home. Perhaps I am growing weary of all the traveling, but I feel churlish saying I’m tired of a location. And I’m not sure that I was tired of Hong Kong so much as I was overwhelmed by it. It was like being at Disney World during high season. It was just wall-to-wall people going every which direction. No wonder their rules of civility are so strict and ingrained. I can’t imagine living with that many people and not have strict rules of behavior. All the sibs used to tell me how easy I had it compared to them. When they were growing up, when there was always so many in the house, Poppa and Momma were very strict. When it went down to just being me, Poppa and Momma could afford to loosen up a bit. Hong Kong feels the same way.

We once again started early in the morning which meant no exercise although I feel like I’ve been getting it with all the walking we have been doing. It doesn’t help me de-stress though so I was happy to be able to get back into routine this afternoon.

For our final excursion we took an overview tour of the highlights of Hong Kong. We met our guide and after a short transfer ascended Victoria Peak, the 1,800-foot summit that soars over the city’s skyscrapers. Simply called “the Peak” by locals, it offered unparalleled views of the city, Victoria Harbor, and the Kowloon Peninsula. We had gone mostly north in our other tours but today we explored the south shore, starting in, what else, an open-air market called Stanley Market. It was just as big of a warren as the other markets had been. I picked up some post cards and some rice paper but that’s about it. The brothers got a few odds and ends but we were pretty much shopped out much to the disappointment of a few of the stall keepers.

From there we explored Aberdeen, a strange juxtaposition of modern and ancient that was both jarring and pleasing at the same time. We visited a local jewelry factory to observe local artisans at work and they pushed the sell very hard. Some people fell for it but Vit and I had gotten better prices our first night market. It isn’t that the jewelry wasn’t beautiful, we just weren’t able to beat the deals we got with Mr. Lee’s help.

The last piece of the tour was to embark on a traditional sampan for a cruise through the harbor’s floating village, where hundreds of people live on fishing junks—a stark contrast to the high-rise community on the island. We had a bit of free time and I was able to find someone to explain the life for Frankie and Nicholas so at least I can say I’m not just playing tourist but am actually doing my job, a job I am being paid well to do.

Back on the ship that is what I focused on, doing my job. And Vit went to do his. Frankie wanted to follow his brother to exercise (they finally reopened the Fitness Center) but I informed him that we had priorities to take care of first.

I got a little bit of an attitude from Frankie but not much, and certainly nothing that I couldn’t handle. I hope that when he gets home and continues with his studies, privately or in parochial school, that a better routine can be established. I think Frankie needs routine. He thrives on it when I can provide it, but too often on this cruise it has been a difficult commodity to come by.

After lessons is when we went to exercise and then I gave him free time to choose an activity and he wanted to sketch. It wasn’t a bird this time but a sketch of some of the captive turtles letting me know it was still on his mind. But there is nothing to be done about it. Had he purchased them and set them free it would have been just as much of a death sentence as leaving them captive will be. The only hope is that whoever purchases the keyring treats them as a pet in a terrarium.

Madam asked that both brothers take the opportunity to make an early night of it and I agree, with exclamation points. We have another port tomorrow, then two sea days that we are already being warned may be accompanied by inclement weather. Those two sea days are also already dedicated to lessons and things like laundry and other personal maintenance. We’ll see how it goes. Inclement weather will undoubtedly interrupt lessons and laundry.

 

[Kathy in FL]

World Cruise Day 193: Mar 12 – Haikou, China

Today we were in Haikou, China … not haiku like the poetry, but Haikou the capital and commercial center of Hainan Province. We arrived in port at 8:30 am and hit the ground running with another volcanic hike, this time in Hainan Volcanic Field which covers the northern half of Hainan Island. It is location a little less than ten miles from Haikou. With an area of more than 1,600 square miles, the field is composed of 58 volcanic cones that originated some 12,000 years ago. Today, the cones are covered in lush tropical forest vegetation. With its boundaries are two villages and 40 quaternary volcanoes. Quaternary is a geologic time period in the ceznoic era. I’m not exactly certain of the years that would encompass but I can say that they’ve all been extinct for a very long time with the last one erupting about 13,000 years ago.

Our hike consisted mostly of wandering in and out of various botantical garden areas created on the volcano as we climbed first up to the rim and then down into the crater itself. There was also a koi pond and a short cave to explore. The views down inside the crater weren’t all that inspiring but looking from inside the crater up to the rim, or from the rim down into the crater, did offer some nice views which led into an interesting geology lesson.

The remainder of the tour included visiting one of the area’s old inland villages to see how lava rock has traditionally been used in the construction of residential houses. We walked through the village streets, met with local residents, and toured some of the lava-rock houses. I was glad to see that both Nicholas and Frankie tried to behave with the Chinese manners they had learned in Hong Kong. One elderly man in particular seemed to appreciate their efforts and while he didn’t say much, his nod of approval had both brothers standing a little straighter. It isn’t that I wish them to adopt the Chinese culture so much as I want them to at least attempt to find common ground and behave respectfully when they visit other people’s homes and countries.

From there we went to have lunch at a local restaurant – heavy on dishes that included coconut – before heading back to the ship. It was there that we parted company for the remainder of our day in port, Vit and Nicholas to accompany the O’Rourkes and Frankie and I for a tour of Haikou the city.

Haikou is situated where the Nandu River empties into the South China Sea. We met our guide and drove into the Old Town where we were shown a unique blend of European and Asian architecture that additionally had Indian and Arabic touches. Roman-style columns and arches, detailed and carved reliefs and colorful window frames created a unique look. From there we went to Wan Lu Yuan, also known as Evergreen Park. It is a neautiful green space in the heart of the city that draws locals and visitors alike. In addition to a picturesque lake, there were plenty of walking trails to explore. We enjoyed the open air, strolling beneath palm trees that reminded me of home, especially against the backdrop of modern skyscrapers. After time to explore, you will return to your ship.

And of course, as we were dropped back at the ship, we had to run the gamut of the cruise market. I almost ignored it all and hurried to get aboard but Frankie spotted his brother and asked if we could join them.

“Hey Squirt!”

Frankie laughed as Nicholas had intended and further drew his brother’s attention by offering him some coconut ice cream.

As I watched them interact I turned to Vit and asked quietly, “Everything okay?”

“Yes.”

“That’s not a very convincing yes.”

“They mostly had Nicholas along to help carry packages. He was a … hmm … a good sport but he did not really enjoy himself.”

“Oh dear. He seems all right now.”

“Because Frankie was coming. Er … we were watching.”

“Watching? Oh, you mean the app. Stop looking so guilty. That’s what it is for.”

He gave me a small smile, obviously relieved I wasn’t going to make a scene, and then said, “I would walk you around the market, but we should get back on the ship as soon as the boys finish their ice cream. But I have packages for you.”

“Vit …”

He ignored what I was about to say and beckoned the brothers to join us as we got in line to go through security. The boys headed to their cabin to clean up and prepare for dinner and Vit and I headed to ours.

“Now where were we?” he asked right before tossing the packages on the sofa and kissing me.

When we came up for air I said, “You must have had a better afternoon than Nicholas.”

“O’Rourke as contacts.”

I blinked at the non sequitur then sighed as he started pulling things out of the bags.

“Vit …”

“It is good the prices,” he said. I could tell by his syntax that he was more tired than he was willing to admit. As he began to set things on the table I made us both a cup of tea. When I saw what it was I had to clamp my mouth shut or repeat my concerns that he was spending money on me he did not need to.

“You like?”

“You know I do. Just please do not feel …”

“That I must buy your affection. Stop thinking such things. I know you are not like that. But it is my wish to buy you things while I can.” I let it go rather than risk hurting his feelings or making him think I am putting up walls. I am trying to let go of my worries, I need to let go of this one as well.

What Vit had purchased was some coconut hygiene products, one of which was a massage oil. That let’s me know that he is finally losing his embarrassment over the massages I give him … even the foot massage that he will sometimes let me do. It took me a moment to figure out what the next bag held but then one sniff and I knew for sure; white pepper which is an export product from this province.

The next bundle held several yards of Li Brocade, a fabric famous in the region. The Li are a minority in Hainan province though they’ve been around hundreds of years. Their specialty is weaving and the skills is handed down from mother to daughter. It is a brocade fabric only done in very unique Chinese patterns. He had it wrapped in rice tissue paper so I won’t have to worry about it getting pulled when it is packed away.

The last small bag caused me to sit down rather abruptly. It was a small bag of unstrung pearls.

“Vit …”

“You say my name as if you can stop me. Do you not like?”

“That’s not it and you know it. I always wanted pearls like Momma. But Vit, you’ve already spent so much on the ones from …”

I didn’t finish because a kiss got in the way.

“And these will add to those and one day I will get them made into a necklace. But for now they will be easier to transport like this. O’Rourke gave me an idea for a money belt only we will put our things from the safe in it. I may have to go through a different security line but it can be done. It is a thing for us to think on.”

I wanted to say we wouldn’t have to “think on it” it he didn’t insist on making those kinds of purchases but I didn’t. As I’ve said … oh never mind. Vit is going to do what Vit is going to do. And I suppose it is his way of getting rid of the money he won at poker. In fact, that is where he is tonight. He promises me he only plays with what he has won, not his original investment. I’ve never watched him play and I’m not about to. I doubt I could have enough of a “poker face” to get away with it.

After putting Vit’s purchases away he insisted that I come to dinner. He is still concerned I spend too much time alone in the cabin. I don’t think of it as alone any longer but as escaping people’s stares. But I must admit that dinner was nice and Frankie was happy to return to the cabin just long enough to load his pictures and then he went to bed. The next two days are sea days and there are lessons and laundry and exercising … and trivia games with Madam.

I haven’t heard from anyone in the family for a few days. I admit that I’m a little concerned. But it could be the connection. I hope that is all it is.

 

[Kathy in FL]

World Cruise Day 194: Mar 13 – Scenic Cruising: Ha Long Bay

I feel so bad for Derrick and the boys. The judge finally gave permission for them to do the exploratory surgery without Lena’s consent … on the grounds that her mental competency was such that she couldn’t give consent and others had to do it for her own good. But when they went in … ugh.

First, they think they may have caught the stromal turmors in time, but it required a full hysterectomy and requires continued treatments. Lena’s psychosis is such that while in recovery she somehow imagined that she had had an emergency c-section. For a while she kept demanding to see her “baby girl” and refused to believe anything other than what her fantasy was telling her. However, Angelia told me that the last two days there were short bursts of near-normalcy.

Angelia: “I’m not sure I believe the story that she doesn’t remember any of the last year. I caught her in a couple of lies when she was talking to Derrick.”

Me: “We’ll get back to why Derrick – and you – were visiting her. What I want to know is if she has finally come back to herself enough to … to … to try and … I don’t know … get Derrick back?”

Angelia: “That’s not happening,” Angelia said with absolute certainty. “The judge ruled for a permanent conservatorship and Farley told me that, as soon as she has a medical release from the surgery, her parents are going to move her to a permanent and private residential medical setting. She’ll be getting both mental health and chemo at the facility with a staff trained to deal with people that have multiple things going on at the same time.”

Me: “But …”

Angelia: “No buts Veta. Farley as much as said he thinks she is fooling – at least to some extent. He also said that her primary doctor said it is part of her psychosis, how she functions by manipulating those around her to fit her latest fantasy; or that’s what it boils down to. Either way the divorce has gone through, the boys are still restricted from seeing their mother – she hasn’t asked to see them anyway – and Derrick has finally made a commitment to Christine.”

Me: “Uh …”

Angelia: “I didn’t mean to spring it on you quite like that,” she said was some regret. “Look, I know it seems fast Honey but … like I said before, we aren’t as young as you. Derrick is older than your bio-dad would be. You can’t fault him for wanting to have a life at his age.”

Me: “Of course I don’t. And it isn’t anything you are probably thinking. I just know Derrick. The guilt is going to hit him and then he’ll turn himself inside out and second guess himself and all the rest of it.”

Angelia: “I’m not saying you’re wrong but he is a lot more resigned than any of us expected. I think things with him and Lena were worse for a lot longer than any of us knew. And I think he … look, I think Derrick suspects that Lena is trying to manipulate things and he’s no longer willing to play her games. I think a lot of people have wised up.”

Me: “So Lena … is getting better?”

Angelia: “I’m going to be careful how I say this. Derrick is the doctor in the family but I’ve been around the block and have a pretty good understanding of the situation.” She paused the continued. “I think Lena will eventually be better. I don’t think she will ever be better to the point she’ll be able to get rid of the conservatorship. She’ll never be well enough to function as … as … look she’s just never going to have the freedom to have a sexual relationship again because she will never be mentally well enough to truly give her consent in that way.”

Me: “God, that sounds awful … worse than what you were saying just a second ago.”

Angelia: “It’s … complicated. Farley said that where they did a full body scan looking to see if the tumors were the only cancer; it revealed some abnormalities. There’s been some structural changes to Lena’s brain in the areas that help her distinguish between reality and fantasy. With time and treatment Lena may be able to pull off a version of what looks like normal; however, she’s never going to be able to function without supervision again. They are also going to have to watch her for stroke. She really messed herself up with those hormones. Or maybe the abnormalities have been there all along and everything just finally caught up. Without the existence of earlier scans they can’t say how long it has been going on. Her mother wants to believe it was congenital to take some of the guilt off of Lena. Her father thinks that she is the direct cause of the abnormalities.”

Me: “And you … Derrick … the others?”

Angelia: “Does it really matter at this point? The situation exists as it is right now. Changing the origins doesn’t change the results. Look Sweety, I have to go. I’m getting that annoying buzz that tells me I’m close to using all of my cell time. Just … if you hear from Derrick …”

Me: “He has my support. So does Christine in case it needs saying. Will that be enough to satisfy the others?”

Angelia: “More than. And you be careful. You know how you let stuff eat you up. There’s nothing you can …………”

The connection failed and I was left looking at the chat box with its awful message that I’d been disconnected. I’ve been trying very hard to not let any of this affect my job, but it has been a real struggle. The only way I got through was remembering the patience Momma always had when I was at my worst. I may not be able to pay her back for all she did for me but I must pay it forward to honor her. And I needed patience today. He had breakfast with Madam and someone thought it was brilliant to give him waffles with an ungodly amount of junk mixed in them then on top came fruit, syrup, and whip cream.

Finally even Frankie couldn’t stand himself and complained that for some reason he couldn’t stop jittering even when he wanted to draw.

“What exactly did you think was going to happen? You must have eaten the Titanic’s tonnage in sugar?”

Bouncing around he finally managed to work it out. “Oh.”

“Yes. Oh. If you can manage to finish this lesson, we’ll go to the pool and you can swim the buggaboos off.”

He crashed after the pool and I managed to get a few things accomplished, including the depressing communication with Angelia and a short email to Derrick and Christine letting them know that I was thinking about all of them affected by what was happening and trying not to sound like a Babusya when I told them the only way through was to lean on each other. I then sent an email to the three kids and tried to let them know I was thinking about them without getting too heavy handed. It was a fine line telling them how much I care and trying to talk about something, anything unrelated to the situation because I don’t want them to think I don’t care.

When Frankie woke up from his doze, he was a little cranky but then brightened up when he found out he was to go to dinner with Madam and then to a trivia competition. I made him take a shower – he really does need to start wearing deodorant – and dress appropriately before turning him over to Nicholas who escorted him for the remainder of the evening. Contrary to my concern, I understand from Vit it was all good. Vit wanted me to go to dinner but I really didn’t feel like being in company. I explained and he held me for a moment before getting a promise that I would go with him tomorrow. Which turns out is another sea day.

While Frankie was at dinner I took the opportunity to do a load of intimates for Vit and I and sponge clean another few pieces of our wardrobe. If I’ve learned nothing else, it is that it isn’t vain to be picky about your wardrobe when going on an extended tour. You need practical, comfortable, adjustable, and washable. As in easily washable in case you must do it in the sink. And have the correct detergent to be able to do just that. Mostly I use the detergent provided by the ship but while I was in San Diego I picked up a bottle of biodegradable “Trek and Travel” that is even TSA approved and I still have half a bottle left and that’s what I used tonight to get some of the laundry done. Once washed I ran the bag of laundry down and dried it rather than string it all over the cabin but the only reason I managed to do that is because I snuck inbetween loads being done by the Laundry Hog.

I’m really not certain who the Laundry Hog is. They fill both the washer and dryer on our deck (and I heard people complaining that this happens on other decks as well) and then walk away leaving the washer and dryer running … and if not running they leave their items in the two machines and everyone else is waiting for them to be claimed. One time someone took their wet clothes out of the washer and set them on the table and I heard there was an uproar about it but you know what? The sign in the laundry room is very clear that you are not to leave your items unattended. So … suck it up buttercup.

Oh honestly, I’m starting to get wound up again. I need to get off this computer and go take a shower. Maybe that will wash away the mullygrubs.

 

[Kathy in FL]

World Cruise Day 195: Mar 14 – Cruise South China Sea

Another sea day. I must admit I am feeling better. Or should I say I’ve got my emotions back under control. And I made sure that there was little to no sugar at breakfast. I didn’t even let Frankie have juice, only milk. Everyone, including the culprit himself, laughed but I said next time they could mind the energizer bunny. Nicholas looked horrified at the idea but Vit said, “I will let all of the ladies aboard know that he is available to escort them around the promenade. They can take turns and tell Madam how he does.”

That got a horrified look from Frankie, so I believe we are all aware that Frankie is not to have an excess of sweets, particularly at breakfast.

I discussed the remainder of the school schedule with Frankie and he was rather impressed that he’d be finished with classes by the end of April which would give him the few days into May before the cruise is over to start his summer. He didn’t have much time to enjoy the idea however as we suffered a weather change.

The South China sea is of huge strategic importance, but it is at least as important for economics. One-third of the world’s shipping goes through it, roughly three trillion dollars per year and growing. The weather in that area of the world is normally controlled by the monsoon patterns but that is primarily during the summer. Having such an early storm, or so I deduced listening to Mr. O’Rourke who is very familiar with Asia because of his previous employment, speaks of a bad year for storms to come. And it seems this one, though on the radar, strengthened well beyond what had been predicted.

Frankie, Madam, and Miss Hayworth removed to Madam’s cabin for the remainder of the day, all but sedated by a strong dose of motion sickness medication. After about an hour of the motion Nicholas took the same remedy. Madam’s steward said he would keep an eye on them since everyone else was confined to their cabins. Trying to walk around, even in our cabin, became an exercise in frustration for both Vit and I as we decided to take the time and go through all our belongings and pack them in categories. All the fabric items were rolled and sealed in a compression bag. I may change my mind about that as I don’t care for how some of our belongings now clank together. The jewelrey and gemstones are now rolled in a felt organizer that reminded me of the felt storage things Momma used to put her best silverware in. The bag remains in the safe but at least now, Vit says if we must abandon ship quickly the items in the safe are now organized and much easier to retrieve. Not the topic of conversation to have during a storm that made me feel like we were bobbing around like a cork in the sea, but I suppose it was better not to put it off.

We also went over our existing wardrobe and took care of minor repairs and decided if anything needed to be replaced or could be marked for donation. I gave a look at our toiletries and realized I was conserving things I no longer needed to worry about. For instance, the wrinkle release and room spray could be used freely. The Lysol disinfectant I would remain careful with for a while longer yet just in case some nasty bug reared its head once again. Lysol wouldn’t kill noro, but it would at least disinfect the air.

Much to my annoyance, Vit’s prediction that we would need another trunk is coming true. He says that if we do not fill the second one up completely, he will stuff his duffle bag in there and save one piece of luggage. I suppose there is no loss without some slight gain. Speaking of … the storm, despite being nasty and a little frightening at times as the Captain tried to navigate us out of the path, still provided Vit and I with more privacy than we’ve had for a while. All we did after our chores was to sit and try and ride out the severe waves. I could tell Vit was tense without trying to let on that he was worried. For my part I tried to pretend I couldn’t tell and had the utmost confidence in him. Meh. I think it kept us both calmer than I later heard that quite a few passengers got. There were several in-cabin injuries but nothing serious.

The ship on the other hand took a whacking and we are going to go as fast as we can to get in line to dock to give the crew time to give her a thorough going over. And speaking of going over, I think I am done and am going over to the bed and get some sleep. Tomorrow … Ho Chi Minh City.

 

[Kathy in FL]

World Cruise Day 196: Mar 15 – Ho Chi Minh City (Day 1)

Ho Chi Minh City. Formerly known as Saigon. Formerly known by many different names depending on who was in power and how they were culturally and ethnically influenced. Saigon is what any student of the Vietnam War will recognize. Those of us younger only really know it as Ho Chi Minh, named after the communist leader of a formerly divided north Vietnam who died in 1969. The name was changed in 1975 but if you listen you still hear many Vietnamese still call it Saigon, especially those from the south of that country.

But before we could leave the ship, I was given a rather sharp lecture by Vit who has a distrust of anything communist though officially Vietnam is a socialist republic. To Vit what you call it isn’t as important as who is in power.

Vit said, “They are much like those I had to grow up being controlled by. What is the American saying? They talk out of both sides of their mouth.”

“That describes just about every politician in the world.”

“Hmph. Perhaps. But the communist ruled then became socialists … supposedly … but they are very much capitalists as well, or for those that are allowed to benefit.”

“You mean the elitists.”

“Yes. At least in America everyone is allowed to benefit … or has a chance to. In such places as this, such opportunities are stolen from the people.”

I let him rant. Vit has reasons for feeling as he does and any time we have discussed it he can always give me good examples to refute any exception I might pose. I’m sure he thinks of me as inexperienced though he has never quite gone so far as to call me a child. I admit I don’t have the worldly experience he does. I admit that I was sheltered. But I’m not quite as innocent in my outlook has he thinks. And I have Robert to warn me off from falling too far from reality. But still I’m not quite as militant as he.

“And?” I asked, knowing there was more to come.

“And I will be checking on you often and I want you to text me during the day.”

“How often?”

He snapped a look at me and realized I was trying to respectfully humor him. He snorted again and we compromised and agreed that I would text him when we changed excursions, but he was not to grow horns and a tail if my text was slowed due to connectivity issues.

Vit wasn’t the only one a little short tempered. There were injuries – though none serious – and recriminations wondering why the Captain couldn’t have simply turned away from the storm. They weren’t mollified when it was explained that the storm was quite large and the shipping channels had been packed with other ships trying to do the same thing we’d been doing.

Getting into port had also been a challenge as we weren’t the only ones trying to do it. There were a lot of ships limping along, just needing some place to anchor and make repairs and clean up from the unexpected fury of the storm.

We finally got off the ship (on time at noon) and headed to our first excursion which was essentially a whirlwind tour of Ho Chi Minh City itself. It took a while to get out of the port and on the road but finally we did it and we got lucky and our guide spoke very good English. I heard tonight that several excursions had guides that barely spoke English. I have to say I don’t think I could drive on the roads around here (we are overnight in port); there are scooters and bicycles everywhere and they rule the road. We started our tour at the Reunification Palace, home of the president of South Vietnam during the Vietnam War. From there we continued past the neo-Romanesque Notre Dame Cathedral, with its twin bell towers; a bit of Paris in Southeast Asia. France colonized this area of the world in the 1800s and even today French is spoken as a second language by some of the people. Next came the elegant Central Post Office—a masterwork of Gothic, Renaissance and French styles. We actually stopped and got off the bus for photos at the Municipal Theater, which was modeled after the grand Opéra Garnier in Paris. Another French influence.

But France isn’t the only influence in this country. China has done more than its fair share and you can find a Chinatown here just like in many other countries. In Chinatown we saw the Jade Emperor Pagoda and passed through its red lantern–adorned courtyard to admire the statuary of the incense-fragranced inner sanctum. Our last stop was a quick tour through Bình Tây Market, a colorful clothing market, before stopping at a lacquer workshop where we witnessed artisans at work. Need I say we were encouraged to participate in a little capitalism before returning to the pier where we were docked?

Some of the women were disappointed there hadn’t been time to do some real shopping but I wasn’t. Frankie was slowly getting into some kind of mood and I wanted to find out what it was without witnesses. But it turned out I didn’t have to for when I asked him to please explain so that we could hurry to our next excursion his mouth fell open.

“We don’t have to go back to the ship while everyone else has fun?”

I heard our group number called and all I could do was give him a good glare and say, “Please tell me you were not pouting.”

“Er … I’m too old for that.”

“Yes you are. Now come along, I don’t want them to shout our names for everyone to hear and then report back to Madam that we weren’t on time.” His attitude vastly improved from that point forward and he didn’t even seem to mind that none of our normal companions were with us.

Promptly at 05:30 pm our tour left with a guide that obviously had a huge passion for Vietnamese street food. We were treated to quite a discourse while we did things like taste ‘Banh Xeo” and “Banh Khot” – The Central, and South’s rice pancake with a lot of fresh Vietnamese vegetables. We walked along BBQ seafood road to visit Mrs. Lieng’s restaurant where a famous food that youtuber Mark Wiens, and some foodie newspapers, tried and gave five stars for its delicious flavors. There was a Vietnamese resteraunt near my apartment in Jacksonville and I ate there a few times, but got one of the only cases of indigestion from food I’ve ever had so I was careful with what I ate.

We also tried “Bo la lot” – beef wrapped in betel leaf. Our immersion continued as we headed to the heart of the street food district and tasted the Saigon Pizza of all things. It is grilled over a wood charcoal fire. We also tried a popular local drink made of sugar can juice mixed with a little orange juic. I wouldn’t call it an orange ade so much as a koolaid. Very, very sweet.

Next up on the tour was Banh Mi – a Saigon sandwich. They said it was a perfect fusion of four delicious flavors but I had a hard time with it as I was very full. Our last stop of the evening was at Nguyen Thien Thuat, which is home to dozens of famous Vietnamese street food vendors that they said would tempt our stomach. I was all tempted out but gave a few things a try. On the corner of Seafood alley we tried BBQ seafood (BBQ meat was offered to those with seafood allergies). I noticed several in our group were trying local beers and homemade Vietnamese rice wine. I stuck with bottled water. On the way back to the ship our guide gave a rather indepth cooking lesson but I found myself too tired to pay it much attention. Frankie was also tired and slowly listing to the side.

I didn’t have to navigate my way back onto the ship in the dark by myself as Vit was waiting right there and simply tossed Frankie over his shoulder, much to the amusement of some of the other passengers who asked if they could have a ride.

In Ukrainian Vit asked, “Is the boy unwell?”

Responding in kind I answered, “He’s tired. I don’t think he slept off all the motion sickness medication. And the heat and humidity was rather unexpected.”

“Yes. It is the storm. The bugs in the market were quite bad. Do you have any packages?”

“Nii.”

“Nii?”

“Nii.”

Nicholas opened their cabin door and said, “Whoa.”

Frankie was a dead weight and I left the cabin so Vit and Nicholas could get him undressed and rolled into bed. I called Madam’s cabin and Miss Hayworth answered and explained things. She told me, “Madam is in much the same condition. I believe they must have taken another pill while I slept. Let’s see that it doesn’t happen again. I believe a good night’s sleep is all they need. We shall see in the morning.”

I relayed it to Nicholas who said, “Well then I’m going to crash and burn too. The mosquitos were really bad today. I ran out of that bug spray you gave us but even when I had it on it didn’t seem to slow the things down any.”

I looked at Vit and he nodded his agreement.

“I’ll see what else I can find in my supplies to help. I really don’t want to put Deet on Frankie but we may have no choice.”

Back in our cabin Vit said, “You really have no packages?”

“No. There wasn’t much opportunity. I took lots of pictures though, except I am out of photo paper to print them off for post cards.”

“Such things should be available in Thailand. I will see you get some then.”

“Vit …”

“Hush Kokhana, there is no need to argue. And you are tired. Why do you not go take a shower?”

It sounded good enough that I let the tired old argument go. When I came out I nearly started it all over again. “Vit!”

I forced myself to remember that Vit got as much joy out of giving the person receiving was supposed to get so as he told me of having fun embarrassing Nicholas buying the dress. And Madam rather thought it was fun as well and insisted on asking his opinion on a few items as well for his mother.

“Poor Nicholas.”

“Not so poor. There was a young woman there who rather doted on him.”

I chuckled thinking of Reggie and then sobered when I realized he’d never have anything like that with his mother again.

“You think sad thoughts.”

“I was thinking of Reggie and Benji. I’m glad for Nicholas and Frankie that things are looking up with their parents. I just wish I could say the same for my nephews.”

“Ah. But they still have their father. And this new woman may not be their mother, but she still cares for them. They will learn that is a great thing compared to having nothing.”

Then I hugged him as I realized he was speaking from experience. He would not allow either of us to become mired in the past or the sadness of the present and instead showed me the other “pretties” besides the beautiful Ao Dai dress he’d bought me. He also bought more brocade and silk fabric, and some for Angelia as well.

“I need to take care of what they are asking for Vit.”

“Your sister did not ask. But she and Tal are doing much for our comfort when they have great responsibilities of their own already. I wish to show that I appreciate that. When I am there I will work but … I may not always be able to do such things as this. For now, I am.” And that was Vit in a tea cup.

He also bought her some Marou chocolate. “Angelia is going to flip.”

“That is a … er … good thing?”

“Very good thing. I can’t believe you remembered she loves dark chocolate, the darker the better. I can barely remember telling you.”

“A smart man remembers such things when sisters are involved, his own or his Kokhana’s.”

“And you are a very smart man.”

It devolved into nonsense from there and when he asked to shower and then go to bed first I was tempted to tell him no and see what would happen. But I’m not a tease and … I think I have my confidence back where Vit is concerned. I won’t tie him to me with sex.

To give him time to sleep I’ve been tidying up my thoughts for the day and prepping for tomorrow. I packed a small day pack of snacks and some repellent and sunscreen. We will be a group of four again and it is going to be a very long day.

 

[Kathy in FL]

World Cruise Day 197: Mar 16 – Ho Chi Minh City (Day 2)

I’m exhausted. I should be in bed, but my brain is still turned on way too high. It is midnight but I’m still decompressing from the day. We pulled out of port at 11 pm with many passengers already abed or going there after watching the sailaway. And doing their own bit of decompressing.

We got up this morning bright and early and met the O’Rourkes who were our traveling companions for the day.

After a good breakfast we were all picked up from the pier at 7 am and drove nearly three hours to My Tho city in the Mekong Delta. Yes, I said Mekong Delta and that it took us three hours to get there. Frankie was better than he was last night, but he still slept most of the ride.

Soon after reaching our destination we took a boat ride along the river. Essentially we got off a ship to get in a car to get to a boat. The drive was … informative; informative but somewhat depressing at the same time. The countryside has its own sort of beauty but hiding among the beauty is plenty of danger from a war decades over. A physical danger and an emotionally charged one as well.

Vietnam as a country is vulnerable to many natural disasters. Facing the East China sea it gets pounded yearly by tropical storms and typhoons. The mountainous region to the north battles landslides and flash floods. The Mekong Delta is one of the most vulnerable in the world to rising and falling sea levels. If that wasn’t enough, while Vietnam has an abundance of renewable energy potential, politics and poverty keep much of the country operating nearly a century behind the times. And the political problems don’t end there. You can still get into a lot of trouble if even a whisper of decent of the leaders in the socialist republic gets back to any official … or the people that monitor their neighbors for profit. It is a sobering reality.

We learned all of this quietly as we traveled the natural canal in Ben Tre on a hand-rowed sampan under the shadow of the water coconut trees. We stopped to enjoy seasonal fruit and honey tea and “Southern Vietnamese folk music”, performed by the islanders. We travelled a bit more and then stopped to have lunch in an orchard garden. Some of the dishes were similar to what Frankie and I had experienced last night.

The setting was idyllic yet I couldn’t seem to shake that not all was as it seemed. They were trying a little too hard. Not because they weren’t honestly friendly, but because they needed the American dollars and wanted us to send others to them that would spend more American dollars. They weren’t avaricious; they were desperate.

After lunch we visted a few locally family-owned and operated business which epitomized the rural lifestyle. First it was a coconut candy workshop. Mr. O’Rourke and Vit were fascinated with a “snake wine” cottage industry. I was disgusted to the point of nausea as I watched the two men knock back a shot of the stuff. Vit pulled a face but Mr. O’Rourke nodded and said something to the headman in Vietnamese causing the man to burst out laughing. I saw Mrs. O’Rourke roll her eyes so suspect she understood what was being said. Given the wine is supposed to dramatically increase virility I’m quite sure it would have made me blush.

The two other businesses we were watching the process of making rice paper business and we learned how to make pop-rice. A huge kettle bowl is set of a fire and a fine black sand is added in and heated. Then raw rice is added and a wooden paddle is used to stir and stir to keep the rice from burning. Soon enough it starts popping just like popcorn. When the rice is all popped everything is scooped into a sieve and the black sand is separated from the popped rice and falls back into the kettle bowl for the next batch. The popped rice is a lot like “puffed rice” or rice krispie cereal, only unsweetened. Pretty delicious and I will give it a try some day in the future.

After that we visited a floating market, something I’d never seen before. Our guide said the markets are busiest in the mornings and that we were seeing the market near closing time, but it was still busy to my untrained eye. These markets are like flea markets or farmers markets where people can buy fruit and vegetables that are locally produced. The goods are sold directly from the boats - the owners hang what they have to sell or trade on long poles, kind of like advertising their wares. Small sampans also serve as mobile cafés, where you can buy soft drinks, an iced coffee or a strong noodle soup of some type. Frankie whispered and asked me if there was a gingerale and I grew a little concerned. He was a little white around the mouth.

Rather than ask our guide I whisphered to Mrs. O’Rourke and understanding immediately she said rather loudly, “What a lovely idea. Rory, let’s have a Mirinda. Please?”

Mr. O’Rourke, no slouch in the sneaky department, looked back in his wife and said, “If you hadn’t suggested it, I would have.” He insisted on buying everyone a can of the lime-flavored pop, even a surprised but appreciative sampan driver and our guide. He definitely made the soda salesman happy when he doubled the order so we could have another one on the road.

Luckily a few of the sampan vendors had some commercially packaged items and Mrs. O’Rourke suggested a few to try. Finding them to our liking Vit purchased a supply to put into my under-the-bed storage for future ports. As they were commercially packaged, we would be able to get them back on the ship. It was shortly after that we transferred back to the van and then back to the port. We arrived at six o’clock, in plenty of time for dinner, but Frankie was not up for it. I had no choice but to call the ship’s doctor but it was neither noro nor food poisoning as I had worried, simply a bad case of traveler’s fatigue and not getting over the rough weather. All he really wanted to do was sleep but I insisted on a shower first, after which he was quickly asleep.

“I am going to suggest that he be given a smaller dose of motion sickness medication should he need it again.”

Miss Hayworth, who had come at my call, took responsibility of relaying the message to Madam. To me she said, “Madam is acting in much the same way. Lethargic, upset stomach, and … er … under the weather.”

“Cranky.”

She tried to hide a smile but agreed. “Quite so. It would not be a bad thing to make a quiet evening of it. Help me get him up and we’ll take him to Madam’s cabin and I’ll get an eye on the two of them while I’m working on my own paperwork which if I’m honest as suffered due to this seemingly non-stop schedule. I believe we are all wearing down.”

Vit had been hovering a bit outside the door and instead simply picked Frankie up, big boy that he has become, and carried him to their cabin rather than wake him up and ask him to walk. Nicholas was concerned until we explained and then he asked if anyone minded if he took in a sports program in the bar. Vit went with him to keep him out of the clutches of some of the men that tended to want to drag him into card games. I begged off from going to dinner as I needed to shower and Vit understood and said we could grab ice cream later.

I was coming out of the shower as Vit came back to the cabin. I could see on his face that something had happened.

“Is it Frankie? Or …”

“Nii. There has been an attack in Manchester.”

“England?” At his nod I put on my robe to follow him to the sitting area. “How … how bad?”

“There was a trial of a gang of men accused of … the news called it grooming. Luring young girls and a few boys into sexual liaisons. The men were found guilty.”

“They were talking about the results of that trial when we were in London.”

“Nii. This is another group. Several of the men had overstayed their visa and were being moved from the prison to the deporting facility. There was a clash between a vigilante group and a group seeking to break them out. At least one of the men was connected to a known terror cell.”

“A known terror cell? If it was known why did they not …?!”

“Easy Kokhana, it is likely they were watching the group and gathering names of others of their type.”

“Fat lot of good it did them. What happened?!”

“The clash started small but grew very quickly. Not even the police were able to control it. Then … bombs.”

“Bombs?” I asked horrified.

“It is not yet known if they intended to trigger them or if they went off when the police tried to take the men back in from an apartment complex where they had hidden. It is … very bad. Worse than the apartment building that burned down in 2017. There was sporadic fighting in other areas of the city as well. And some of that spread to London though it was quickly quelled by the army because the royals are in residence.”

“How many?”

“Three dozen known fatalities thus far. The number is expected to climb. There was a block that refused to evacuate thinking that it would stop the police from trying to take the men. It … is not believed that any survived the blast. Six of the known dead are policeman caught in the blast.”

“Oh … oh no. How horrible.”

And we’ve done little more than watch what news is coming through. Reception is not good. The best reception is in French with a few English subtitles. When I finally thought to ask about Nicholas Vit explained he’d gone to join Miss Hayworth and try to contact a couple of friends he has that plays for Manchester United’s … well what amounts to their minor league football/soccer team.

I sent an email to Charlie to relay to the others that we are aware of the situation but that we aren’t being affected by it. Devin, who had been over at Charlie’s working on his taxes, emailed back … Charlie had already used his ‘net allowance for the day … said it wasn’t really affecting anyone in the States either except for who he called the “Emoticons in Hollyweird.” I explained to Vit that Devin’s college girlfriend was an actress and did him badly so he doesn’t have a high regard for the career and it tends to play out in other areas as well. “Ah …” he answered obviously not getting it until I likened the girl to “the dancer.” Then his eyebrows came down and his “ah” was more darkly understanding.

Vit has dozed off and I need to get him up and both of us to bed so I need to stop my own version of being an “emoticon.” I must stop thinking about the fact that they’ve already doubled the confirmed death toll.

 

[Kathy in FL]

World Cruise Day 199: Mar 18 – Sihanoukville, Cambodia

It appears we need not have worried. Frankie is back to his old self. A little calmer perhaps and ready for bed when the time came, but no lasting harm has occurred. I’m honestly surprised that he hasn’t really been ill on this trip. Of course he hasn’t been in a classroom full of other germ factories either. That’s one good thing that has come from this schedule.

Today I was up at five but there was no time to exercise. I grabbed the shower first then woke Vit and went to go wake the brothers. The three of them met me in the buffet and we ate a quick breakfast and that’s when I found out we were paired with the O’Rourkes and another couple – the McVeighs – that they were friendly with. Vit and Nicholas knew them as well but Frankie and I hadn’t crossed paths with them beyond recognizing them as being on the same deck as Madam’s cabin.

Where were we off to? To explore Siahnoukville, Cambodia. To say that Derrick was leery about the desintation was to put it mildly. Dylan and Charlie were also a little uncomfortable. But Devin playfully growled that he was jealous all those months ago before I started this journey. Devin has always wanted to explore this part of the world – Southeast Asia – but life has always changed his plans to other things. However, with their opinions in mind I was glad that Vit and Nicholas were one of our party. Still, when we started the excursion, I have to admit what I saw was far different from what I had imagined Cambodia to be.

We were picked up at the port and headed off to Tumnuk Rolok Fishing Port where we watched fishermen go about their day to day activities. It was explained to us that they head towards the open sea at night and return to the port early in the morning with their catch. We saw plenty of local boats lined up at the port while the fishermen on them unload their catch and spend the day repairing and preparing their casting nets for the next catch.

Next came the opportunity to admire the Kbal Chhay Waterfall as it cascaded through the surrounding rock formations. We weren’t there during the rainy season (July to October) so it wasn’t at its best, but it was still beautiful. The waterfall originates from different points in the country’s mountain ranges and is a source of clean water to Sihanoukville, clean being relative I suppose. It still would need to be treated in most countries but in Cambodia I was under the impression people drank the water directly. No wonder the O’Rourkes insisted on bringing along a case of bottled water for our group. I already carry hand sanitizer everywhere, but I handed it around to everyone frequently throughout the day.

We also visited the Phsar Leu Central Market, where we got a glimpse of local daily life and culture. We explored the various market sections such as fruits, seafoods, clothing, jewelry, Khmer food and various other local goods. We were given time to shop and Vit, the McVeighs, and the O’Rourkes made good use of it. I bought two Meking quilts … one for Angelia and one for Vit and I. I thought it was quite a bundle but it was no worse than what the others purchased, including Vit; textiles and batiks, woven mats, soaps, candles, silver, silverware, silver jewelry, betel nut boxes, copper work, and Cambodian silk. I found out later that Vit is trying to distribute the money he wins in the the different ports rather than in one or two large purchases. This way he can honestly tell the other men he plays with that he can’t play beyond his normal limits.

After the market we toured two of the better-known pagodas in Sihanoukville. Wat Leu (Upper Wat) is located on a hilltop and offers a sweeping view of the entire town, its surrounding beaches and nearby islands. The stone architecture was magnificent, especially the three headed white elephants with Buddha statues on top out of a stone wall. It is an active place of worship, where food and fruits are offered during special days so everyone was asked to behave respectfully. Wat Krom (Lower Wat) on the other hand, lies on a small hill in Sihanoukhille. It has unique Khmer architecture and enjoys a panoramic vista of the ocean and quite a few gold Buddha statues and murals through out.

From there we explored the rural life in Sihanoukville’s little village in the countryside. There were traditional houses, and people working at the fields and farms. We learned from the guide about the daily lives of people in the village.

We took a short trek to see the Independence Monument, which lies in a small park at the intersection separating Sihanoukville’s city center from Victory Hill. The neighboring shrine is also used as an venue for important religious festivals. And lastly, before returning to the pier, we took a walk on Cambodia’s sandy beaches (yes, I collected sand) at Sokha Beach to feel its tropical island breeze. It felt similar to the Pacific islands that we visited though not as laid back.

The McVeighs returned to the ship but the O’Rourkes continued on with us and added another couple by the name of Murphy. The Murphys were members of the birding crowd and Frankie and I had toured with them before. Mrs. O’Rourke whispered, “Be a dear and let Frankie entertain them a bit. I’ve had enough fuss and feathers for a bit.”

I smiled in understanding and had Frankie change places with me so he and the Murphys could compare their “catalogs” which is a sort of album of photos they keep on their phones. In need of fortifying before our next excursion Mr. O’Rourke led us to a little place where we had Lap Khmer which is a lime-marinated beef salad. That sounds awful but it was delicious. Sliced beef is either quickly seared or "cooked" ceviche-style by marinating with lime juice, then dressed with lemongrass, shallots, garlic, fish sauce, Asian basil, mint, green beans and green pepper. The sweet and salty dish also packs a punch in the heul (spicy) department with copious amounts of fresh red chilis. Luckily Mr. Murphy has an ulcer he has to take care of so he and Vit split a plate where the chilis were left out. It is a refreshing dish that is more beef than salad.

After our meal, thankfully not too heavy since we had to hurry, we met our guide and headed to Ream National Park for a nature tour. On a boat ride through the mangroves in the park there were plenty of rare and impressive birds and mammals to keep Frankie and the Murphys enthralled. I realized this might have been planned as Mr. O’Rourke, Vit, and Nicholas had their heads together and it was obvious they were strategizing something. Mrs. O’Rourke split her time between the Murphys and me. But then she laughed when she realized I had caught on and was simply people watching to see where it was going.
The park lies about eight miles east of Sihanoukville. Officially named Preah Sihanouk National Park, the park became known as “Ream” because it is located in the Ream commune. Ream boasts a range of habitats including mangroves, evergreen forests, sea grass, rivers and coral reefs. The primary forest there is a refuge for more than a hundred bird species including many endangered birds of prey such as the gray-headed fish eagle, Brahminy kite and white-bellied sea eagle. Other creatures you might spot include macaques, sun bears, rhesus monkeys, mouse deer, and pangolin.

I was nearly shocked senseless when I was the one that spotted … nearly stepped on … a pangolin. Basically a pangolin is a scaly anteater but in reality it looks like some kind of sci-fi creature. Like opposoms they carry their babies around until they are large to survive on their own. And like armadillos they curl into what looks like an armored ball when they feel threatened. They have a very long, tube-shaped tongue they use to get at the insects that are their primary sustenance. Vit thought at first I was frozen with one foot in the air because there was a snake but when Frankie spotted what had me looking like a bizarre statue he hushed everyone and he and the Murphys got a picture to remember. The guide noted a tag on the animal and captured it … it was an escapee from a local shelter … and as we carted the animal back to its caregivers we were allowed to get an up close and personal view of the prehistoric looking little beastie.

After the park we visited nearby pepper and tropical fruit plantations then took a short but relaxing boat ride through the jungle and mangroves out into the ocean. The ship didn’t sail until 8 pm – scheduled that way to avoid some of the shipping traffic in the Thai Gulf – which meant on the way back we were able to stop at a couple of roadside stands recommended by our guide. Near another pepper plantation I got salted green pepper, as well as a supply of black, red, and white pepper corns. They were not just commercially sealed but had the customs stamp on them, so I was able to get them aboard without incident. I didn’t have as much luck with the fruit because most of it was fresh and because those types of plantations are decades behind their neighbors because of all the damage and purges the Khmer Rouge inflicted while they were in power. We did try some of the fruit: Cambodian mango, durian, coconut, mangosteen, lychee, longan, rambutan, bananas, jackfruit, and even watermelon.

I’m not sad to have missed dinner and it wasn’t long after coming back aboard – and after showing Madam his newest pictures – that Frankie agreed to go to bed. Vit and Nicholas are off with the men at the sports bar and I suspect there is another poker game taking place. That’s fine as it has given me time to try and pack our purchases away. I’m shocked at how quickly the second trunk is filling. I told Vit I might not be able to wait up for him this time and after assuring him it was only due to wanting to catch up on my sleep that had been disturbed by worrying about things I could do nothing about he understood.

However, my hair is now dry and it is time to do what I said. Part of me thinks I should do a bit more work but I’m tired of the lists chasing me around in my sleep.

 

[Kathy in FL]

World Cruise Day 200: Mar 19 – Bangkok, Thailand (Day 1)

Talk about overload. I know I’ve said that a few times since we’ve gotten to this area of the world – and I’m still figuring out if it is simply overload from all the traveling or from all the “different” culturally – but it is true. Today and tomorrow we are in Bangkok, Thailand. Definitely overload.

Overnight they put a safety reminder in our cabin “mailbox.” While they phrased it to pertain to all passengers, reading between the lines you could tell it primarily applied to female tourists. Of course I’d already gotten the lecture from Vit. He had apparently asked Mr. O’Rourke to give a reminder to Madam and Miss Hayworth; he thought it would be better coming from him.

First, drive-by bag snatching is a real problem. I switched from my backpack to my cross-body bag that Devin gave me for Christmas a couple of years ago. I remember that Lena thought it was bulky and tacky, but I always felt better carrying it. It is big enough to hold my 15.8” laptop, tablet, and a few other things so her complaints that it was big and bulky might be true, but it isn’t tacky. A little retro maybe. However, any negatives are more than made up for the fact that it is RFID-protected and security smart because it has mesh that makes “slashing” the strap or the bag part of the purse very difficult. The zippers are also clips that lock, and not just your standard zipper pull.

The major suggestions to address the problem were: Walk as far away as you can from the roadside, keeping your bag on the side of your body away from the traffic; only take what you need for the day and keep your valuables in the safe in your cabin; keep your phone out of sight, not in the bag which was difficult for those of us that use our phones as our cameras; don't get your camera out until you want to use it which is easier said than done for most tourists; and, if there's nothing of value in your bag, it'll be easy to let the thieves have it and avoid confrontation or injury, again another easier said than done suggestion.

Next came the discussion on how to dress. Just because there are thousands of barely-dressed bar girls, doesn't mean tourists should dress the same. For all its openness and acceptance, Thailand is still conservative and have been known to arrest female tourists in the wrong place at the wrong time wearing the wrong thing, supposedly sending certain signals. Men and women were encouraged to cover up appropriately. Even if permissible, women shouldn't go topless on the beach, or stray too far from the beach in a bathing suit. And for female beach-goers, always carry a loose-fitting dress in your bag, just in case you want to duck off to the markets. The strictures about touring certain sites were even more conservative. When entering temples and royal buildings, always make sure your shoulders and knees are covered. That means no tank tops or sleeveless shirts for males or females. And don't forget to remove your shoes and socks when entering a temple.

And as for all the monks that seem to live in and around Bangkok, did you know women shouldn’t touch monks? I had no idea. I’m trying to think back to the other temples we went to if I was inadvertently rude. No one said anything but I wish I would have known about this beforehand. Females aren’t supposed to touch or give anything directly to a monk; instead, set it on the ground in front of them or give it to a man to hand over. Females aren’t supposed to sit next to monks on public transport, and look out for monk-only areas in waiting rooms. Women are not welcome in some temples, so always check the signs. And there is even pedestrian rules … if you pass a monk on the street, let him pass by you first. I’ve always made it important to try and be considerate of the cultures that I’ve been exposed to even if I don’t understand or agree with their practices. I would expect the same thing of a tourist in the US. However, I must admit the requirements here in Thailand as they were explained seem nearly as bad as some I’ve heard about in the Middle East.

I had to make a few, quick adjustments before we got off the ship, but as it turned out it made for a lighter day. Since we arrived in port at 12:30 pm instead of the morning I didn’t have to worry about carrying too many snacks, but I did put in a couple bottles of water as the day was warm even before we got down the gangway. Thankfully, while Frankie was a little “miffed” that his brother and Vit would not be with us today … or should I say that we would not be with them … he got over it quickly.

The port area and the part of Bangkok that we drove through was wall-to-wall people, all busy doing something, all making noise. The volume of traffic was difficult to adjust to; it was as bad as Hong Kong, especially with all of the Vespa-like mopeds on the road.

Our excursion was to a fruit farm. Even on the road to the farm traffic was daunting with mopeds and bicycles our constant companions. It took two hours on the bus – unairconditioned bus – but when we arrived, we received a warm and friendly welcome at Supattra Land Orchard in Rayong Province. Supattra Land is a fruit paradise, with 320 acres growing more than 25 varieties of the best tropical fruits such as durian, rambutan, mangosteen, starfruit, dragonfruit, jackfruit and passion fruit. The first thing we all did was take a picture at the giant fruit statue. After Frankie’s silly example, many of the other couples struck a funny pose in front of the display as well. The tour was on an open-air trolley. The first stop was at the rambutan station where we were allowed to pick a fruit to try for ourselves. The fruit was certainly strange looking, like something out of a sci-fi movie. It was red with green “hairs” that looked like they belonged on a bottle-brush.

Next came the fruit buffet trolley stop. Good heavens. Frankie and I ate enough that I haven’t felt like a full meal for the rest of the day. Frankie and I began eating a few halves of santol fruit. You eat it by sucking the white fuzzy stuff off the seeds. Texturally challenging I admit. The flavor is both sour and sweet and is like eating a slimy cotton ball. Next came mangoes which I’m quite familiar with because they grow readily in Florida. Then snakefruit. Er … yeah. The peel on the outside reminds you of a snake skin. And once you get it peeled … not pretty. The fruit is really juicy but highly acidic and quite sour. Frankie loved them. They made me almost nauseous. The durian fruit I must admit was very good if radically different from most things I’ve eaten at home and abroad, but some of the passengers overdid it and wound up with heartburn and hot flashes. I’m not kidding, that is what that stuff can do to you. The smell alone makes sure that most places, like hotels, don’t allow guests to bring it in. The other fruit we tried were mangosteen, papaya, jackfruit, pineapple, lychees, custard apples and starfruit. We were all on a sugar rush.

At the next station we got to taste som tam salad (made from green papaya). There were several women lined up, mortar and pestle in hand, ready to pound whatever we wanted into our plate. I noticed some people asked for a bit of everything. I on the other hand, had to make sure that Frankie didn’t make himself sick. There were an enormous number of fresh vegetables and peppers to choose from. I had a few of the chilis in mine, I made sure that Frankie did not. A few of the other passengers ultimately wished they had been wiser with their selections. A few knew that I generally carried antacids for Vit and privately begged to know if I had any with me this time as well.

There was also a rubber tree section where a guide demonstrated rubber tapping, and an apiary where the beekeeper explained the care of the hives and offered us a taste of fresh honey straight from the comb. Oh my goodness that was delicious. Despite the crowds that were there I felt it was too soon when we were called back to the bus to make the long ride back to the ship. Several of the passengers, including Frankie, were quite drowsy from being stuffed from fruit and salad. Frankie tried, but he slept three-quarters of the way back. I didn’t mind as I was trying to decide how on earth I was going to get the honey and dried durian that I purchased back onto the ship before we had to be at the meet-up location for our evening excursion.

In point of fact I wasn’t able to. Instead I joggled Frankie awake and off the bus barely in time to hop inside an awaiting tuk-tuk. A tuk-tuk is a two- to three-passenger open-air vehicle that is commonly used to zip around city streets. While Frankie and I were the only ones on our tuk-tuk, there were several such conveyances following each other for the excursion. First, we made a stop at Wat Pho to admire the golden pagodas. It was still light, so I was able to get great photographs. From there we visited a popular 24-hour flower market. Wow. Momma would have loved the place, but I could hear Charlie as if he was standing beside me. “Place smells like a funeral.” The floral fragrance was rather intense, but I still enjoyed it. As night fell, we were led to a few food stops to sample delicious Thai fare. My stomach had just stopped groaning, so I was happy that it was only samples and not a full meal. Mango chicken, authentic coconut milk, kum sang do, curry noodles, and for “dessert” things like mango sticky rice, coconut noodles, and pumpkin custard. Ugh. I am still a little queasy from eating so much.

Finally we were back to the ship. Security was a little beefier than normal but not too different from when we have overnighted in other ports. I noted a couple of groups of “angry youths” hanging out around the pier but it didn’t feel as bad as it has in some locations. I think they were normal hangabouts, rather than there for any specific purpose. Frankie was full as a tick and exhausted as a result of the accompanying carb crash, so with a promise that we would make time to load pictures tomorrow or the next day he readily went to bed even without Nicholas being there. When I got to my cabin I found a note that Vit requested that I call the bar to let him know when we got in. Before doing anything else I complied since he’d said please.

“You are in?”

“Yes. I just finished putting Frankie to bed … well, you know what I mean.”

“Yes. I wish I could do the same with his brother. I do not wish to leave him here with certain parties, but I wish to end the evening.”

“Then tell him that.”

“He should be allowed to make his own decisions.”

“And so should you. Just tell him. You might be surprised.”

Not fifteen minutes later Vit was here and sure enough he had been surprised that Nicholas was ready to go to his cabin.

“I do not understand.”

I snickered. “You gave him the choice. He exercised his prerogative rather than his pride. Don’t question good fortune. It may not turn out that way next time.”

Vit grinned and whispered, “Babusya.”

I acted like I was going to throw a pillow at him but all either one of us wanted to do was sit down and share what was left of the day. I was nearly asleep and hadn’t planned on writing when there was a ping from Vit’s phone and I got a glimpse of Dylan’s name (good thing I read Cyrillic) before Vit took the call out on the balcony. I quickly realized Vit was going to be a while so I got my journal and now I’m at the end of my tale. And it looks like Vit is finished with his phone call. Hopefully he isn’t too wound up to go to bed because I am exhausted.

 

[Kathy in FL]

World Cruise Day 201: Mar 20 – Bangkok, Thailand (Day 2)

How I could possibly not realize it I don’t know. Yesterday was Day 200 of the cruise which means there are only forty-five days remaining. Oh … my … goodness. I am both excited and stressing. Our lists still have several gaps to fill but at the same time less than two months and I will be home … and bringing Vit with me! Good thing that Frankie and I had a full day to keep me occupied or I might have worried that fact to death.

Vit and Nicholas was off on another adventure but what Frankie and I did was quite lovely as well. It was called “Bangkok in Depth.” First we stopped at the Temple of the Golden Buddha (Wat Traimit), a brief stop from the day before. It is famous for its Sukhothai era Buddha image made of solid gold, three meters high and weighing five and a half tons. I was able to put into practice the things that I learned yesterday about women interacting with monks. No one patted me on the head for acting properly but at the end of the day our guide was especially polite and gracious to me which I think was his way of appreciating my efforts. We were only at the Golden Buddha for thirty minutes, but I found it ample time, though some others in our group couldn’t seem to stay on the clock. As the day wore on, I found it was the same people over and over that couldn’t find a way to be considerate of other people’s time.

Next stop was Bangkok’s Chinatown. We took a little walk and explored the Chinese community in Bangkok. I didn’t find anything particularly spectacular about it. I hate to say “if you’ve seen one Chinatown you’ve seen them all”; but on the other hand it is close to being true.

Another duplicate from the night before was Pak Khlong Talat, the flower market. This time I didn’t hesitate to purchase an orchid. I wore it as a corsage and knew at the end of the day, due to the heat, it would be ready for retirement, so I didn’t have to be sad about not being able to take it aboard due to the restrictions.

Then came the Temple of the Reclining Buddha (Wat Pho) which is the most important temple of Bangkok with its very impressive huge reclining Buddha image in bronze built in Ayuthaya period (1350-1767). We spent an hour in a mini guided tour, and I appreciated the history the monk shared as well as his excellent English.

Our next stop was the Grand Palace which is another of Bangkok’s major landmarks. It was built in 1782 by King Rama I. Each building of the complex is a work of art including the royal chapel of Temple of the Emerald Buddha. Only visitors in proper attire are allowed for the entry. There was only one woman there that had forgotten the stricture about covering her shoulders and I was happy to lend her the scarf I had tucked into my bag. It even matched her outfit so she didn’t stand out. Wat Phra Kaew, or the Emerald Buddha, is considered the most revered Buddha image in the Kingdom.

Next was the Bangkok Canal, which we did on board a motorized long-tailed boat so we could enjoy the scenery along the river banks and small canals of the Chao Phraya River, which once gave the name “ Venice of the East.” Our last stop after getting off the boat was another temple, the Temple of Dawn (Wat Arun). It is a major riverside landmark with a magnificent pagoda that soars some 280 feet into the sky.

I wondered if I had missed a time change as the bus driver and guide seemed anxious to get us back to the pier but we were back in plenty of time. Turns out they wanted us to exit their bus directly into a cruise market. I felt rather cynical as I walked through the market trying to ignore the vendors until my phone buzzed and it was Vit requesting that Frankie and I wait so that he and Nicholas could catch up and “join us for shopping.”

Vit is having a great deal of fun buying things and I don’t wish to destroy the joy but I think I am getting a tad irritated at the constant capitalistic bombardment. I don’t blame people for needing to make a living. In fact I rather admire them. I’m just a little tired of being the one they want to make a living from.

Vit had already done some shopping from the look of the packages he was carrying. While in the cruise market and in the duty free shop he did even more. It is like he’d looked up the list of “what to buy and where” and was following those suggestions. Thai silk, gems and jewelry, Thai rum, coconut products, Thai spices, elephants baubles, Thai spa products, and silver. I on the other hand stuck to my own list. Barbie and Rhonda both had asked me to stock up on high-quality essential oils which I have found in abundance in Asia as it is part of their medical practices. Angelia likes the smell of lavender in her house while I prefer something citrus-y or eucalyptus depending on my mood. I picked up some post cards to go with the photos that I planned to eventually print out. The least useful item I bought was an ornamental rice box. I didn’t find out about all of Vit’s purchases until this evening as we added them to the inventory.

“Vit, if we aren’t careful we are going to fill up this second trunk and not even have room for our clothes.”

“Nii. I know you, you’ll find a way. I am still amazed at how much you got so carefully packed in the first trunk.”

I gave him a look like Momma would have and said, “Don’t schmooze me. You know I’m right.”

He sighed. “Let it be Veta. We will figure it out when we need to.”

So I have, sort of. Even if Vit won’t be more circumspect I am going to be and that is that.

 

[Kathy in FL]

World Cruise Day 202: Mar 21 – Koh Samui, Thailand

I got my days mixed up. I thought today was going to be a sea day but it is tomorrow. I definitely need to wash my hair, it has soured from all the heat. And I feel dusty and filthy. I’m grateful that Madam asked for Frankie’s company after our 3 pm sailaway. She’ll keep him through dinner and their regular trivia challenge afterwards and that will hopefully give me time to shower, wash my hair, and all of the other yada, yada that I need to do. But I’m going to have to wait for the plumber to finish whatever they are doing. The water stopped running in the middle of Vit’s shower this morning. I had hoped that they would fix it while we were out but apparently the problem was more widespread than just out cabin and they are still hunting it down. So now here I sit with time to shower, but no water to do it with. Hopefully by the time I finish writing about today’s excursion they’ll be finished.

Today’s excursion was a 4x4 jeep tour and an elephant ride. First, we had to tender to shore. There were a lot of smaller craft around the cruise ship, so it slowed things down a bit. Once we made it to the pier we had to wade through a busy market and both pedestrian and other non-motorized traffic, but we finally made it to our guide and onto the 4x4 that would convey us to Na Muang Safari Park. It didn’t take as long as I expected to reach a rainforest landscape. Upon arrival at the park, we started out with a ride through a tropical garden of coconut groves and jungle on a gentle elephant. Yes, I rode an elephant. I even bought the outrageously priced photo for Frankie and I.

Riding an elephant is nothing like riding a horse. Both are intelligent animals, but they express it differently. The horses that I am used to are like children or adolescents, and you have to be prepared for pranks as they either try and assert dominance or just simply want to play. Elephants are … different. There’s a weight to their intelligence. Younger elephants may play but generally not as you would expect and even baby elephants are large and heavy enough they can easily injure a human.

The instructions we were given were to approach on the right, not from any other direction which might cause an incident as you just don’t want to startle an animal that big … and some elephants have been trained to attack if approached from the left though the practice is no longer widespread. As you approach pay attention to the elephant's demeanor and behavior; signs of a happy elephant include flapping ears and a swaying trunk and tail but stay our of range until they give you leave to approach. Their handler will beckon you forward when it is safe. The elephant may examine you with its trunk to smell you or see if you have some food. Think of it a bit like when a dog or horse sniffs you; so, no sudden movements. The handler will be watching as well to see if the animal stares intently, holds their trunk in the mouth, or blows a warning because that means the elephant may feel threatened or anxious. Do not approach the elephant until the handler interprets the elephants wishes and mood.

Once the elephant and its handler gives you permission to approach it is time to mount up. There is more than one way to mount an elephant. You can mount by using the front or hind legs, ears, trunk, or by stepping on the tusks. We mounted when the elephant kneeled. We had to grab the elephant's right ear and place our foot on its bent knee. Then it was a bit like starting the process so the elephant could finish as we swung our leg over the elephant’s back. You needed to do this quickly because the elephant is all but tossing you up and on as it stands back up and you want to be settled as quickly as possible. I’ve mounted enough nervy horses that I didn’t have a problem but a couple of other people in our group seemed to be almost scared stiff at first.

You aren’t really sitting on the elephant’s back but on his neck, behind its ears. I have to say that elephants don’t have a lot of patience for foolishness. The one I rode allowed me to lift Frankie up in front of me but I noticed she gave him a look as if to see if he was going to fidget. Frankie was nervous but did not fidget; I told him it would be unkind to the elephant to do so and he was very intent on treating her correctly. The handler – a young boy not much older than Frankie – also encouraged Frankie. I’ll admit I tipped him and gave him a wink for his kindness. The grin on his face was something to behold.

When you dismount a horse sometimes they give off this attitude that “it’s about time” as if they were done with you before you are done with them; or irritation that you don’t want to play more because they aren’t done. Our elephant was different. She seemed to take it all in stride as if we were children she tolerated or a job of some nature. Yet, when Frankie and I thanked her politely for the treat she had given us she seemed to listen and understand that we had appreciated her time and understood that she was being gracious. I can’t explain it exactly, all I can do is verbalize how it felt. There was no huge connection, just … something.

The other thing I liked about riding the elephant is that the wicked monkeys in the tree kept their distance. I expect they are at least smart enough to understand that they’d be toe-jam if they bothered the giant beasts. We did get an up-close view of the long-tailed monsters as they climbed coconut trees to retrieve the fruit for their handlers who use them like farm hands. Later we enjoyed a demonstration by the elephants to see how their mahouts, or trainers, work with them. Now I know there are a lot of people out there that say you shouldn’t ride elephants because it is an abuse, and I’m not saying that abuse doesn’t happen because even the mahouts there spoke of it; but, to me it is a way to become more aware of the intelligence and abilities of these incredible creatures and the need to protect them from poachers and habitat distruction.

Another activity both Frankie and I enjoyed was a cooking lesson where we learned how to make spicy green papaya salad. We’d eaten the day before but this time we made it ourselves. And we got to eat what we made during a delicious lunch buffet of Thai cuisine. We were nearly as full as we had been yesterday but not quite so jittery as we stuck to food and not just fruits. After the buffet we took a short Jeep ride to visit Na Muang Waterfall.

Between the parking area and the falls there were several stalls offering local snacks and souvenirs. Frankie was happy to buy a couple of small elephant souvenirs. One in particular made me feel sentimental. There was a herd of seven elephants. One was obviously the matriarch then he named the remaining ones Miss Betty, Father, Mother, Francine, Nicholas, and the smallest elephant he told me shyly was Francis. Then he pointed to two birds flying in the background and he said, “That’s you and Mr. D. You’ll fly away but you’ll always be around too.” Makes me teary-eyed even now.

Of course I grabbed a picture book, picked up the elephant photos we took … and also got them on thumb drive … bought some spices that were properly sealed and had the customs stamp on them, and then on a lark (and I know I shouldn’t have) I bought a paper umbrella that had elephants painted on it. Ridiculous but Vit told me tonight it might actually come in handy in Egypt as the sun can be merciless there. I may just do that if it doesn’t impede my line of sight.

After the falls it was back to the ship and good thing too as we were a little late. Vit was anxious but not overly so as he watched me with the app and because I had texted ahead to let them know were were heading back. But now here I sit waiting for the shower I am desperate for. I may have to be to the verandah because quite frankly I can’t stand the smell of my hair.

 

[Kathy in FL]

World Cruise Day 203: Mar 22 – Scenic Cruising: Gulf of Thailand

There are some ignorant, crazy, irresponsible people in this world. And I can’t help but feel that this might be in some part my fault. Damn Robert and those crazy people he got involved with, and damn that awful woman. Maybe if I had handled the break up with Robert different … or that last encounter with him better. On the other hand, what he chose to do was not my fault and I certainly didn’t direct that crazy chick to do what she did.

My car. Or what used to be my car. That Reggie was driving. Thankfully the thing is a tank. Was a tank. But Christine was with him and she got a little banged up. Oh my God, the entire Petric clan descended on Jacksonville and that Crazy Slitch and the friends that were in on it … and Dylan told some little birdies who flew to certain other birdies and … just Oh My God. Do I even want to remind all my gentle readers that Christine’s brother is a cop?!

The slitch hasn’t posted bond yet. Some of her cohorts were VOP’d and they also occupy cell space. The investigators – through Christine’s brother – have asked everyone to back off and let them handle it properly so none of them can build a defense from it. And I am struggling to deal with the fact that they didn’t tell me what happened until it was already done, over with, and all the other yada, yada. I wanted to reach through the phone and snatch a hank of Barbie’s hair for saying they didn’t want me to get hysterical. Really? Really?! I’m thousands of freaking miles away. I’m not going to get hysterical because that wouldn’t help anyone. All they did by intentionally choosing not to tell me was to make me angry … and helpless in a way they didn’t want me to feel, or so Derrick said.

Vit held me but seemed to understand some of what I was feeling even if he might lean in Dylan’s favor as far as explanations went.

“You are angry at your family.”

“I am angry. But I am trying not to be angry at my family.”

“They may have err’d, but it was on the side of caution.”

“I get that. But I’m not a child. And I care about them. They called those of us that are far away too. Jerry is in the army in Korea for Pete’s sake. Why couldn’t they have called me?”

Vit held me and wouldn’t let me get up to once again stomp around the cabin. “Because you are and will always be the baby of the family. And they know you would feel guilty.”

“Of course I feel guilty, but I’m also smart enough to know that what that crazy woman and her friends choose to do is out of my control. What if something worse had happened? Would they have hidden that from me forever?! And stop listening to Dylan, and don’t tell me that isn’t who fed you that line about me being the baby and the rest of it. He always has some handy dandy excuse for treating people like chess pieces for their own good.”

Vit reluctantly couldn’t hide a grin. “He said to … er … duck and cover and to try not and get him in any more hot water than he already is. Angie and Nichelle threatened to … hmmm … put his head on a pike if he ever did it to them.”

Finally willing to calm down after getting it out of my system, and having someone there that was willing to let me spew without freaking out, I relaxed a bit into his arms. “I have a feeling when we get home they are going to have a huge learning curve to get over the idea that I’m not still that seventeen-year-old basket case that left for college.”

“I have a feeling you have not been that … basket case … for quite some time. You have a soft heart, it is true, but you also have a good head and are much more things than even I understood in the beginning.”

Well that deserved some appreciation even if his syntax stunk, but then I admitted to him, “I needed to leave home to learn I didn’t need to be that basket case. I just hope I can prove what needs proving so they’ll stop thinking I am.”

“We both have things to prove. But … perhaps … they do as well to us.” I turned and looked at him and another knot untied itself. I’m pretty sure I don’t have to worry about Vit being anyone’s errand boy which in my family with all its varied personalities, is probably going to turn out to be a survival skill.

 

[Kathy in FL]

World Cruise Day 204: Mar 23 – Singapore, Singapore

I got several more emails after I wrote my feelings out yesterday. It looks like they get it in hindsight and that mostly the delay is they were too busy in the “now” to see how I would really take being the last to know. On the other hand, Angie said someone is always the last to know and this time it was me. I suppose in my own bit of hindsight I simply need to accept that last-to-know may very well be my chance to show some grace. I don’t know, maybe I am rationalizing. All we really need to be thankful for is that neither Reggie nor Christine were more than banged up a bit. And that Derrick seems stronger rather than weaker. And that there are connections and soon to be connections in the family that can bring … if not fairness, certainly a level of justice. Or at least get the situation going that direction. And everyone is correct. I’m not there and can do next to nothing to help. And I must continue to come to terms with that. And I’m tired of emoting, tired from emoting. I’m going to prevent myself from falling back into poor habits and recount today.

Singapore. An island nation of six million people. Founded in 1819 as a trading post by the British East India Company. Became fully independent in 1965 and after a few kurfluffles here and there – some economic and some cultural – has finally become to look and feel like a first world nation although it still drags its ancient beginnings around with it.

Nearly half the residents of Singapore are foreign born which is just one of the reasons why it has four official languages: English, Malay, Mandarin Chinese, and Tamil. English is the common language used in business and government and is also the language used in their education system. From what I saw today the country is incredible, but it does have some … not necessarily drawbacks but certainly more than quirks. The country has one of the highest execution rates in it judicial system that is almost too fast for any kind of appeals system. They have a lot of laws there and very few of them are misdemeanors. And they cut you no slack whether you are a long-time citizen or visiting for a day. Shoplifting, racial insults, offenses against the modesty of a person, drug offenses, rioting and vandalism shouldn’t be done by travelers in any country, but most especially in Singapore since penalties can range from corporal punishment to even death penalty in severe crimes such as rape, murder and other major offenses. Chewing gum isn’t allowed so don’t do it in public. Travelers won’t even be able to buy a pack of gum while in Singapore since its importation isn’t allowed. Activities such as spitting, urinating in public, jaywalking as well as littering carry heavy fines. First time offenders can be hit with a SG$1,000 fine or even jail time. Smokers should check out non-smoking signs as it is prohibited to smoke in restaurants and other public places. There are designated public smoking areas so travelers only need to look for the marked spots to know where to light up. Just remember to extinguish and dispose of your used cigarette butts properly to avoid heavy fines and sanctions. They were so heavy-handed about it that the bottom of our shoes were checked as we got off the ship to make sure we didn’t accidentally take something into the country that is illegal.

I was happy to simply go with Frankie to see more birds at the Jurong Bird Park, Asia’s largest bird paradise. As a matter of fact I found myself, yet again, on a bus full of bird crazy people. Oh … my. The bus we road on was almost painfully clean and we were instructed time and again to make sure we didn’t leave any of our belongings on the bus when we exited. The bird park is a 49-acre aviary on the western slope of Jurong Hill, the highest point in the Jurong region. It is a conservation effort dedicated to breeding and research of the many species that can no longer be found in the wild because 95% of Singapore’s natural forests have been cut down to make way for progress.

Our group was given a special behind-the-scenes look into how endangered or abandoned eggs and chicks are cared for at the sanctuary. You should have heard all of he “awwww’s” and “Ohhhh’s” when the chicks were seen through the glass windows. Frankie ran out of memory on his phone as we explored the Park’s landscape, where Asian and African birds fly freely around visitors in a tropical rainforest environment. There were a ton of exhibits, shows, and feeding times, and it was like planning a rocket launch as everyone tried to fit in everything they could within the time we had. But when you are trying to see 400 species of exotic birds from all over the world—from flamingos to toucans, parrots to penguins – you are going to have to leave some things out.

I wasn’t sad to get back on the bus but some of the other passengers were, almost to the point of tears and you should have heard the vows to return. Oh … my … goodness.

I was surprised to be met by Vit and Nicholas as we were exiting the bus. “Come on Squirt, I’m starving, and we have to get back on the ship to eat.”

I looked at Vit and didn’t trust the look in his eyes. There was too much devilment, something that I only saw rarely and in public not at all. As the brothers went through the buffet line I finally asked, “Okay, what’s up?”

“I made a very good deal.”

“Er …”

“There were several sports teams there and the translators they hired did not speak all of the languages.”

“And?”

“I speak Ukrainian, Russian, Italian, and Portuguese. All four of the languages they lacked. And Mr. O’Rourke speaks several languages and is an even better poker player than I.”

“Do I want to know what gambling has to do with this?”

“Only business. He has a good poker face. Not serious but … jolly. Like your Santa Claus. We cut a very good deal.”

“It must have been to put you in this good of a mood.”

When he told me I nearly dropped my teeth. “For sports?!”

“Shhh,” he said trying not to laugh. “They were very high-stake contracts.”

“Vit …”

“And Dylan nearly had to get a new keyboard when I told him.”

“And what does Dylan …”

“Shhh.”

“Oh my lord. Is this something that Dylan put you up to?! I am going to scalp him!”

“Nii, do not scalp your brother. He is not at fault for my choice. But he did admit its usefulness.”

I felt like putting my fingers in my hears and singing la-la-la-la-la. I may be forced to break my vow to keep my nose out of whatever it is that Vit and Dylan are up to. I’m pretty sure I don’t want to know but I may have to if it risks Vit getting in trouble. I swear one of these days Dylan Petric is going to get it.

After lunch Vit and Nicholas joined us on a more leisurely tour of the city where we witnessed the remarkable diversity of Singapore. As our guide put it ancient traditions endure within one of Asia’s most cosmopolitan cities. We started along the banks of the Singapore River, admiring old British-flavored architecture in the homes there. We also passed through Little India, where Indians developed their own unique community of trading houses and homes during British rule. Today, its bright colors and sounds echo those of the subcontinent. On Arab Street, we saw a rich Muslim influence, where shops sell textiles and Persian carpets. Today, the Arab Quarter is home to Malays, Sumatrans, Indonesians and Yemeni. It also has a gold-domed centerpiece known as the Sultan Mosque. That was followed by yet another Chinatown that was brimming with markets and restaurants. Mosques and Hindu and Buddhist temples were sprinkled through out, further emphasizing how diverse Singapore is.

That’s when we were gifted with a surprise of free time … to hit the markets what else. There might not have been any chewing gum but there was certainly a plethora of other things to spend our money on. Vit and I both spotted some flavors of dried tropical fruit and teas at the same time. Some were even packaged so they’d pass through ship’s security. I picked up a couple of jars of coconut jam – one of which was for Frankie who loved the stuff – and got both brothers pineapple tarts so they wouldn’t be standing around doing nothing while I went into a perfumery and purchased several bottles of orchid perfume; one for me and the others for some of my sisters. When I spotted Nicholas rubbing his shoulder and then a pharmacy I told them all to hold on and went in before Vit could stop me.

I knew what I was after. It is one of the few things that Momma relied on while she could still stand to have Poppa massage her hands and feet. Tiger Balm. I won’t say I bought a lot but I will say the shopkeeper was very, very pleased and even helped me carry my bag out to turn it over to Vit. He looked at me and then I said, “Neither one of you are going to be sore from sports again. Momma swore by this stuff and this is the real thing.”

I am proud to say that when I gave Miss Hayworth some for her and Madam after our four o’clock sail away you would have thought I’d earned my salary twice over with that simple act. The heat and humidity is really getting to some of the passengers. I heard word is getting around and now everyone has Tiger Balm on their shopping list.

What surprised me was after dinner when Vit and I were relaxing – the brothers had opted to watch a movie in their cabin with a smorgasbord of ice cream and popcorn – he noticed that my feet were tired and sore and he insisted on using the tiger balm liniment on them. Well one thing let to another because naturally a foot massage wasn’t just a foot massage, and we both just got comfortable and it wasn’t long before Vit was very comfortable and … very asleep. His light snores made me want to giggle so I got up and wrote this journal entry. But I hear Mr. Rumbles in there wondering where I’ve gone so I’ll close here and say g’nite.

 

[Kathy in FL]

World Cruise Day 205: Mar 24 – Kuala Lumpur (Port Klang), Malaysia

Well I guess sometimes that plainspokenness is really the way to go. And Mrs. O’Rourke is certainly that. I got a call in the cabin late last night with a few handy-dandy tips from the lady for today’s tours. Her primary suggestion? Bring our own toilet paper. It would appear that TP is a rare commodity that is often missing from public, and even private, bathrooms in this area of the world. I hadn’t been paying attention as I detest public restrooms. Frankie hadn’t mentioned anything and I always insist we all use hand sanitizer on a regular basis. But Mrs. O’Rourke suggested that I add hygienic wipes to my bag if I had any; or, at least bring some folded up tissue. I did have baby wipes leftover from England that weren’t too dry (remedied with just enough water to moisturize them again) and they came in handy.

All passengers were also given a reminder to dress conservatively. They’ve been saying the same thing daily, but they put an extra emphasis on it in the newsletter as apparently some of the passengers weren’t getting the message. Yoga pants are not considered “conservative attire” as they are too form fitting and some of the men and women continued to forget to at the very least they need to wear cap sleeves and even that doesn’t always guarantee entrance into some of the temples and mosques that people are visiting … or trying to tour anyway. With the warm weather too many of both genders were trying to take advantage of the summer pieces they have in their wardrobe. But with a country that is majority muslim, and that majority leaning heavily conservative, you have to follow the rules of being a guest.

And naturally Vit wanted to go over the day’s itinerary, make sure he could still access the location app on my phone, cover situational awareness, then added that he trusted me but there were others that he did not … including some of our fellow passengers … which I thought was oddly put even as my mind tried to put it down to his occasional lax syntax.

It isn’t that I wasn’t listening because I was or I wouldn’t have taken note of his phrasing, but both he and I had overslept which made for a rushed start to the day. We docked at 8 am and we both had excursions we needed to get our charges to immediately afterwards. It was some sort of sporting event for them, and for Frankie and I it was a different adventure … caves, pewter, and sightseeing.

Located just six miles north of Kuala Lumpur, the Batu Caves attract thousands of tourists from around the world, thanks to its religious significance and the sheer scale of its treasures. It comprises a complex network of caves, with three main ones including one situated at the top of a steep, 272-step climb. And yes, Frankie and I climbed them up and back down again. Called the Cathedral Cave or Temple Cave, it has a spectacular 330-foot high arched ceiling and features ornate Hindu shrines. There is also a 142-foot high statue of Murugan, a Hindu deity, and an impressive art gallery and museum. Perhaps my orthodox leanings blinds me to other religions, but I wasn’t particularly touched by any of the religious significance. I found it historically interesting, but it didn’t touch me spiritually. And from what I gathered that is true of many of the visitors to the Caves though we did see a significant number of devotees there as well.

Afterwards we went to the Royal Selangor Visitor’s Center, the world’s largest pewter manufacturer, and after watching the artisans at work we took a class and learned to create our own pewter dish using traditional tools and methods. We got a certificate for the class as well as keeping our apron as well. Both Frankie and I enjoyed this part of the tour a great deal. And as a bonus, the finished product was ours to take home as a souvenir as well. As part of the class we also got to see and take a picture with the world’s largest pewter tankard. It is huge and I believe it was large enough for Frankie, Nicholas, Vit and I to all fit in it with room for a few others. Nicholas expressed some regret at not getting to see it but he was fairly tired, yet very satisfied, from the work out he got during his time on shore.

The class lasted an hour and by then both Frankie and I were starting to get hungry. When we got off the transfer bus back at the pier I wanted to run our creations back to our cabins and grab something at the pool grill but there wasn’t time much to our stomach’s regret. But we were in luck as our afternoon tour included an initial stop at a Mamak stall … basically an open air eatery for local street food. In fact, our original tour had been cancelled and we’d been placed in a different one that was primarily a food tour but also included some sightseeing stops.

My regret is that it was a bit rushed since it was thrown together at the last second and the guide tried to cram everything they could in the four hours we had. Some of the food we had included: Malyasian satay and other skewered meats; Nasi lemak, Malaysia's national dish made of fragrant coconut rice served with a spicy sambal; Chicken rendang, an aromatic slow-cooked chicken curry cooked with a secret spicy paste and coconut milk; Nasi dagang & nasi kerabu, which is coconut milk fish curry with pickled cucumbers and rarely found nasi kerabu made from blue pea flowers; Malay stuffed chillies - Malaysian chillies stuffed with a coconut mackerel paste; Grilled mackerel, mackerel grilled whole in a banana leaf and served with a spicy sambal and topped with zingy lime; and, Satay Padang, flame-grilled beef and chicken skewers topped with a sauce made from turmeric, galangal and cumin. Of course, there were desserts like rice pudding and rice cake and seasonal exotic fruit.

Between food stops we went sightseeing. There was the National Museum, a fascinating collection that chronicles the nation’s past from prehistory through the Malacca Sultanate, colonial era and present day. And then the National Monument, a huge bronze monument built in tribute to the soldiers who gave their lives during the Communist Insurgency of the 1950s. Two of our photo stops was at the historic 1910 Kuala Lumpur Railway Station and the National Mosque of Malaysia. In Merdeka Square (Independence Square), we saw the wide cricket green and the British-style Sultan Abdul Samad Building. Our tuk-tuk like vehicle drove us through the Golden Triangle, the city’s entertainment district, right up to the Petronas Towers, resembling a pair of steel-clad rocket ships linked by a towering catwalk. Our guide had connections and we bypassed the line to take a quick tour of the building where we got to walk out onto the catwalk with its incredible vistas.

I’m not sure what the cost of the excursion was but I have to say all of us on the small excursion group were more than pleased with what we covered. And the gratuities reflected that once we were safely back at the pier.

My only regret at the time was the fact that we hadn’t really been able to do any shopping despite me having a couple of things that I really wanted to find. I wasn’t even able to stop in the duty-free shop because it was too close to our 5:30 pm sailaway. I needn’t have worried. When I got back to the cabin there was a pile on my bed and a note from Vit.

“Kokhana, I apologize for the mess. I am called to a business meeting with the O’Rourkes and Madam. Please do with this as you will but do not try and lift the box on my bed.”

Uh huh. I gave it an experimental nudge and couldn’t even budge it. What on earth? If it hadn’t been taped closed I would have looked inside but it was so I didn’t. There was a knock on the door and it was Frankie arriving for lessons. I asked if he would like ice cream first and he looked at me like I had been body snatched by aliens. I almost laughed. I told him that I had spied orange sherbet at the Pool Grill and it was a particular flavorite of mine and I was falling to temptation, not to hold it against me. For some reason he thought that was hilarious and the rest of the evening passed pleasantly with sherbet, lessons, transferring digital photos, adding to our vlogs, and me trying to pack what Vit had left for me.

First off I need to be careful mentioning that I like something because there were several durian items … durian chocolate, durian candy, durian truffles, Malayian chocolates with durian cream centers, and more dried and powdered durian. My, my. Then there was a cucuk sanggul hairpin that I wanted to wear immediately but that I decided would be better put in the safe. Where upon I found another small package that contained sabah pink pearls. I knew what they were because Vit’s memographic printing had labled them thus. The three remaining items are what had been on my own list … instant white coffee, nutmeg oil, and boh tea … I simply hadn’t intended on buying as much of them as Vit did, especially the nutmeg oil which is a very pricey item back in the states. Given the size of the two bottles I knew they were meant to share with my sisters but I hadn’t dared to even ask how much they cost because even at an online discount price the pure organic stuff is twenty dollars an ounce. The two bottles I held were nearly a liter in size. Oh my.

It was well after the typical after dinner drink hour when Vit finally came in. He was exhausted but looked pleased. He was certainly pleased that I had waited up for him and I got a kiss that left me breathless and light-headed.

“Goodness.”

“Hmmm,” he purred.

But we both knew that tomorrow is another full day so we didn’t wind each other up very much. But that is when I found out – and was scandalized by – what was in the box on his bed. Pewter dishware.

“You make too much of it Kokhana. They are plain.”

“Vit, don’t you dare try to pull the wool over my eyes. Frankie and I were at a pewter manufacturer today so I know exactly what something like this costs.”

“Perhaps to the publc but O’Rourke introduced me to a wholesaler. I have several boxes on shipment to Char-lie who will hold them until we can collect them. Char-lie having a business in freight is what convinced me to do it.”

“He did what?”

“No. He … never mind Kokhana. It is done. And Char-lie and we all benefit. This is what would not fit in the case going to Pembroke. We will need to spread this out in the trunks to try and balance the weight.”

I wanted to groan as it meant unpacking absolutely everything all over again to reorganize it but that is a problem for another day. For now the box is under Vit’s bed and there it will stay until we get closer to disembarking in Dover. And with Vit out of the shower and on his way to sleep I am going to slip into the bathroom, tidy up, and then go to bed myself. This heat is a bear to get used to even with it feeling more and more like summer time at home.

 

[Kathy in FL]

World Cruise Day 206: Mar 25 – Georgetown, Malaysia

Today we visted Georgetown which is the capital of Penang Island in Malaysia. I’m still not sure that I fully understand Malaysia. Singapore used to be first a colony of Malaysia, then a member, before winning their independence. I knew that much from our previous port stop. But it is still confusing.

Malaysia is one country, and is a federal constitutional elective monarchy, and is the only federation in Southeast Asia. However, it has thirteen states that often seem to operate independently. Plus, there are three federal territories that fit in there as well. Due to the centuries of enfluence of the British, its primary language is English and the government is even modeled after the British form of parliament. Nevertheless, its culture is largely Asian despite its very diverse history and citizenry. Over half the country is muslim with number two and three being Buddhism and Christianity respectively. Hinduism and Chinese folk religions also have a significant cultural representation. All of this packed into a country that didn’t exist independently until 1957. Amazing. And at times complicated as they deal with conflicts generated by their muslim majority and the proximity of the Chinese influence.

It was some of this “complicated” that caused Nicholas’ and Vit’s excursion to be cancelled. Luckily there were two slots in our small group and they transferred in. I’m fairly certain that left on their own they would have chosen something different, but Frankie and I were glad to have them along and they were good sports about it.

Our first stop after our 8 am arrival was the Penang Botanical Garden. I had a blast as did Frankie who simply enjoyed having his brother along. Vit and Nicholas were indulgent but did find some things of interest. First came the Penang Butterfly Farm then the Botanic Gardens after a short panoramic tour through Georgetown. At the Penang Botanic Gardens, also known as the “Waterfall Gardens,” we discovered a peaceful haven of indigenous and exotic plants. Angelia and Christine loved the pictures I posted of the flowers. From there we took a scenic drive along Batu Feringhi—one of Asia's most beautiful beaches—to observe an impressive collection of butterflies and other insects at the Penang Butterfly Farm. Sitting at the foot of the Teluk Bahang Hills, it features more than 4,000 butterflies representing 120 different species. Many of them consented to being photographed and Frankie and I nearly used up our memory doing just that.

Finally, we continued to the lush Tropical Spice Garden (a bio-diverse living museum) on Penang’s northern shores. Once an abandoned rubber plantation, this award-winning ecotourism destination now offers eight magnificent acres of native plants and exotic herbs including bamboo, ginger, heliconias, and stunning orchids. I know eight acres doesn’t sound like much but I swear my head felt like it was mounted on a swizzle stick for all the looking around I did. Nicholas was able to participate in a short cooking demonstration much to his pleasure. And Vit took pleasure in a display of spices and teas … conveniently packaged for purchasing. He bought another bottle of nutmeg oil, more instant white coffee, and some boh tea; but, he also got real cinnamon and cardamom from Sri Lanka, vanilla pods from Bali, and cloves and nutmeg grown organically right there in Penang. I couldn’t show my happiness in front of everyone, but I certainly showed him my appreciation tonight. He looked like someone had whacked him in the face with a frozen mackeral; not particularly attractive as such things go but it nearly made me giggle in satisfaction at the results of my effort.

After a modest lunch at a satay street vendor’s stall we joined our afternoon excursion where we visted some of the island’s most notable temples. While doing that we also discovered traditional handicrafts and visited several market stalls where they were sold. Our guide drove us to the Thai Buddhist Temple (Wat Chaiyamangkalaram), which houses the fourth largest Recling Buddha in the world. It’s a smidgen over 108 feet long. It was huge … and colorfully painted, mostly in gold. Across the way, the Burmese Buddhist Temple hints at Penang’s cultural diversity. From there we continued to the Batu Ferringhi region, where we stopped to visit a batik factory. Colorful cloths are patterned with a centuries-old wax and dye process just like in ancient times and I picked up several yards. I also picked up some songket fabric at the same stall. Angie had a fit and begged for a square off the corner and I told her I hadn’t exactly bought all of the fabric for me and she had several different yards coming for her quilting projects. Boy was she happy.

Next we drove passed fruit orchards and plantations growing clove and nutmeg. We stopped at a farmer’s fruit stall, a burst of color and fragrances, and Vit and Nicholas purchased a few items to show our appreciation for his hospitality. I was happy to see several other passengers followed suit. His widowed daughter had a stall next to him and there I bought a baju kabaya (a type of dress), and a pair of nyonya beaded slippers.

Then came the famed Temple of the Azure Cloud, or Snake Temple, dedicated to the deity Chor Soo Kong. Buddhist deities confuse me. They sound more like what I consider mythology yet there are people that absolutely do believe in them as something real. This god’s disciples include pit vipers, tamed by incense smoke. They had live snakes as respresentations. Uh uh. We could safely view the snakes that reside there, but it was at a distance, at my insistence. Vipers are nothing to play with even if they are drugged up on incense.

From there we returned to the ship for the 5 pm sailaway. The remainder of the day has proceeded as normal – save for Vit looking rather appreciative of my appreciation – and now I can finally hear that he has settled down and gone to sleep and so will I. Still can’t but giggle a bit at the look on Vit’s face. I almost regret not taking a picture for future reference.

 

[Kathy in FL]

World Cruise Day 207: Mar 26 – Cruise the Andaman Sea

Today has been the first of three sea days in a row. I’m glad because I am really trying to make sure that whoever is in charge of Frankie’s education next, I don’t want them to think that he has any gaps. Today we learned about the Andaman Sea.

The Andaman Sea used to be known as the Burma Sea and is what is also known as a “marginal” sea. A marginal sea is defined as “waters adjacent to a state and under its jurisdiction and extending outward from the coast about 3¹/₂ statute miles.” Another definition is “is a division of an ocean, partially enclosed by islands, archipelagos, or peninsulas, adjacent to or widely open to the open ocean at the surface, and/or bounded by submarine ridges on the sea floor.” I was surprised to find out there is no definitive list of marginal seas on earth and that different authorities disagree on how many there are. Some even count the Arctic Ocean as a marginal sea. It made for a strange venn diagram exercise.

For our purposes the Andaman Sea is a marginal sea in the Indian Ocean. The fisheries and tourist infrastructure that once defined it have never recovered from the several earthquake and tsunami that occurred in 2004. Within the sea lies Barren Island the only currently active volcano associated with the Indian subcontinent. It had been dormant for almost 200 years before becoming active once again in 1991. It was active only in fits and starts until 2008 when it started erupting again and has not been quiet since. It has been over a year since it erupted with any significant energy but there is lots of talk that the rumbles are gaining strength again and we even had a short tsunami notice in the newsletter telling us that in the event that a tsunami warning occurs they will tell us what to do at that time. Not exactly what I would call helpful.

In addition to lessons there was krav maga practice and the pool. I swear Frankie must be part fish. I have noted that his hand is bothering him a bit but he won’t admit to it. On the other hand I caught him doing the hand exercises on his own without prompting. I begin to think this may be something that he will have to live with for the remainder of his life. Sad to think so but it is looking more and more like that is the way it will be. But I am happy to note that his foot no longer turns in. It may be all of the walking and swimming strengthening that part of his infrastructure but I am still going to note it in his file so that it can be examined at his next physical.

I also had to do some laundry as the Febreeze is no longer sufficient to freshen some of our shirts. This heat and the resulting sweat just sours things too much. I switched to quick-dry socks for the same reason. I asked Vit if he minded switching to shirts that I could rinse out and allow to drip dry between laundry days. He readily agreed and we both spent a few minutes going through our wardrobe and putting away the clothes that we no longer would need as the warm weather has increased. I’m going to give those clothes one more wash and then use them as packing … the ones I’m not just going to out and out donate … between items in the trunks.

I wanted to enjoy a sea breeze but it is far too warm so I closed the slider and have been sitting here going over lesson plans and paperwork since dinner. Vit is out with Nicholas and after spending the after dinner out with Madam, Frankie is asleep in his cabin. Vit did not ask me not to wait up for him so if I finish the few sewing chores I set for myself for tonight I may just go to bed early. I’ve got a long list of things I want to work on for the next two days and getting up early for a good yoga session and a run are just two of them.

 

[Kathy in FL]

World Cruise Day 208 and 209: Mar 27 & 28 – Scenic Cruising: Bay of Bengal

I was so busy yesterday that I forgot to journal. Today hasn’t been much better but I feel easier in my mind. Actually got to speak with Derrick as more people were out by the pool than using the wifi connection leaving me plenty of bandwidth. He sounds so good. I hadn’t realized how long it had been since he had been playful until I heard it in his voice today. Christine is really good for him. And the boys, whom I also got to speak with. Christine’s daughter was too bashful to come to the phone, but she did say thank you for the pictures I sent her of the butterflies. We couldn’t talk as long as I would have liked but they are still rationing the internet back home and my call was a wifi call. When it was just Christine and I, I asked what if anything she would really like and after a small hesitation she asked me to see if when we got to India if I could find some good curry powder.

“A woman after my own heart. If there is curry powder I’ll sniff it out and bring some back.”

She laughed as my cast iron stomach is a legend in the family. And Derrick is partial to Indian Curry dishes so I can imagine why she would want the good stuff. Too often the stuff you can get in the stores is just junk unless you go to an ethnic market.

I got a follow up chat from Derrick letting me know that Christine was all but healed from the accident and that Reggie is “back on the horse” and driving.

Derrick: “Veta that car is a tank. Local body shop guy offered to buy it because he said it was in great shape except for the front bumper which he had to take off and bang out and weld in one place. I said it didn’t need to be a show piece, just do its job. And it did that. Had they been in my car the accident would have been much more serious. The only issue is that the car doesn’t have the government monitor installed. I got a letter in the mail asking that I get one installed but since it isn’t legally required, I’m not going to. I’ve got tracking on Reggie’s phone.”

Me: “They’re requiring trackers on the cars now? Since when?”

Derrick: “Not physical tracking. They want to monitor fuel usage, speed, and be able to turn the car on and off and slow it down or speed it up at will.”

Me: “Uh … no. When I want to brake, I don’t want to have to fight the government to do it.”

Derrick: “Just so. And Charlie said that if I we heard from you first to let you know that the list is almost complete.”

Me: “We? Are you French all of a sudden?”

Derrick: “You need to take that act on the road. And yes, I said we. Christine and I are going to make it official once you get home.”

Me: “Don’t wait.”

Derrick: “You sure?”

Me: “Of course. She sounds like a wonderful person. And as awful as this may sound … you and the boys need to live in the present and future, not drag around the old baggage. So long as you all are dealing with things in a healthy way …”

Derrick: “The boys’ therapist said nearly the same thing. I just didn’t want you to think that I’d forgotten about you.”

Me: “Never gonna happen. Just be happy. That’s the best thing you could do for me. Don’t make me think that I’m some kind of anchor holding you back.”

There was a little more after that but nothing spectacular. The spring gardens and orchards at Pembroke House have given hand over fist and Angelia is more than happy with what the work has been yielding. More of the sibs are helping … finally … after she made a point of only sharing the yield with those that helped or donated in some way. I made sure to tell Derrick to remind Charlie that if she needs more financial support to do what has to be done from my savings, that I’m not having to use as much as I thought. I could tell he wanted to ask about that but then slewed into asking me about the timeline for being home. And after the chat ended, I sent an email to Christine to make sure she knew, from me to her directly, that I was serious about them not waiting until I got home to make a public announcement or whatever they planned on doing.

There is less than forty days to go. Part of me is excited. Part of me knows it is just the next step and I need to figure out what I’m going to do as far as a career. If the school district implements the plan of installing all of those virtual classrooms, I’m not sure how many proctors they are going to hire, if any. Existing teachers that can’t convert to the new system will be forced to either retire or find a new career path. There is a bit of an uproar from what I’m reading in the news, but they’ve got the remainder of this school year to figure it out. Everyone has their opinion, but if the money isn’t there, it simply isn’t there. I also read they are getting rid of a lot of the ESL programs and will instead incorporate forced language learning into the virtual programs … sort of like an immersion program I supposed based on its description.

I really should start brushing up on my own language skills. I have that bachelors, I might as well use it since I paid for the blasted credits. I emailed Professor Danbury asking if she had heard anything at the university level. All I can do is wait and see. Vit and I have spoken at length about careers for both of us but have come to the conclusion there is only so much we can do until we are actually “on the ground” so to speak. I noticed last night that he pulled up some gobbledy-gook on his tablet. I think he is trying to review what is new in mechanical engineering. I just wonder what we are both going to find. Pembroke isn’t exactly the backside of nowhere, but it isn’t a metropolis of any size either. But that’s a problem for another day.

Today Frankie and I had another geography lesson. The Bay of Bengal. It is the northeastern part of the Indian Ocean and is our gateway to Indian subcontinent. First come a couple of days in Sri Lanka and then after that we’ll sail around India stopping in multiple ports. After that is Oman, Jordon, and Egypt before we head into the Med and then back to England. Barely a month to go. Wow.

 

[Kathy in FL]

World Cruise Day 210: Mar 29 – Colombo, Sri Lanka (Day 1)

Sri Lanka. The island was first colonized by the Portuguese, who took control of the cinnamon trade. The Dutch followed, then the English ruled it and called it Ceylon until it became independent in 1972. And when I say there seems to be crowds in Sri Lanka, let me expand on that. The country has more people than it does square miles of land … 21 million people to twenty-five thousand square miles or roughly 840 people per square mile.

The government is democratic socialist republic. Yes, just as crazy as it sounds. While their constitution guarantees human rights, the country is constantly under scrutiny for human rights violations. This isn’t just women don’t have the same rights as men, they mean things like 12,000+ people have just up and disappeared after being taken into custody by the government. It is that last that had Vit really reading all of us … Nicholas, Frankie, and I … as well as Madam, Miss Hayworth, and the O’Rourkes a lecture. Seems last time he was in Sri Lanka with the Yacht owner they lost two crewmen. They were last seen being taken to the local police precinct and were never heard from again.

“I will not lose any of you.”

The way he phrased it took some of us aback but then Madam patted his shoulder and said, “Of course you won’t.”

The first activity of the day we split into two groups. Nicholas and Vit came with Frankie and I, while the O’Rourkes went with Madam and Miss Hayworth. For our group we had an immersive walking tour in the bustling commercial district of Pettah. We met our guide and took a short drive to Pettah; located next to the central Fort district. It still reflects Sri Lanka’s past as a meeting and trading point for people from around the world. Our guide was a Colombo native and walked us through the busy streets while relating stories about the history of Pettah and Colombo. We learned a great deal about the diverse cultural landscape of this area in which Moors, Sinhala, Tamil, Burghers and other communities that comprise modern Sri Lanka met and still meet today. There were open air bazaars doing a lot of business—from spices and textiles to car parts and electronics. Some of the old buildings we passed started life as colonial mansions from the Dutch period. We concluded our walk at the Galle Face Hotel, a renowned Dutch villa that was converted into a hotel in 1894. It was here that we met our next guide who made sure we had a bottle of water and light refreshments before starting the next tour, very welcome as the heat of the day was upon us.

Vit, who was more circumspect after his morning outburst, and I were both interested in our next tour which had to do with the tea trade. We gained insight into the island’s hugely successful tea-producing industry, from the leaf to the teacup. Our guide beckoned the van over that we took a scenic drive in through lush landscapes during which we climbed into the hills of Ingiriya. Upon arrival at the tea plantation in Ingiriya, we enjoyed a traditional welcome with garlands made from tea leaves. It reminded me of the leis in Polynesia.

Some of the finest teas in the world are produced in this region of the world, and during our tour we learned why it has become one of Sri Lanka’s most famous and principal exports and a good chunk of the country’s $293 Billion GDP. The country produces over 330,000 tons per year. We heard stories of the island’s culture and history as we observed the tea crop being plucked, graded, tasted, bagged and packed for shipment. Our guide explained the process, and we enjoyed a taste of the finished product at the plantation manager’s bungalow. Rubber production is also a significant industry in this area and is essential to the local economy. It wasn’t optimal to observe the rubber tapping process but we still received quite an education on it, as well as the economical and ecological impact.

Before we left Vit asked if I would accompany Nicholas and Frankie to wash up as they were both very red from the humidity. I thought nothing of it as we’d taken turns in the past. Nicholas went along so that Frankie wasn’t in the restroom alone. I also handed over my pack of wipes and by this time not even Frankie blushed as it simply is what it is due to cultural differences. I took my own moment to freshen up. When we returned to the van I saw a couple of the men in our party carting crates to fit into the “boot” or whatever they call the rear area. When I realized what Vit had taken part in I was nearly ecstatic. So was the gift shop manager. The men had pooled their resources and bought teas. The other passengers only wanted small packages but since they weren’t sold that way they thought they were going away empty handed. Vit offered to front a bulk purchase and sell them a share. Everyone was very happy. The only thing I was worried about was getting what was left all packed.

“Nii. O’Rourke asked me to see if I could make such a purchase and Miss Hayworth said that she and Madam would be willing to go in shares as well. I believe the McVeighs may also be interested in a share. By the time it is split, and we drink our fill, there will not be so much to put away.”

When we arrived back at the ship it was a little strange going through security with three wooden crates. But we managed it and the men carried it to Madam’s cabin where it was quickly split into shares. Vit still managed to bring an entire crate back to our cabin. All of it will have to go in the trunks in some fashion so I hope the packages don’t have too much air in them to take up excess room.

I didn’t have time right then to admire it because we had one more activity; a dinner cruise on Beira Lake. To provide protection against their inland enemies, Portuguese colonists built the artificial Beira Lake during the 16th century. They then filled it with crocodiles to make it an even more formidable defense. At the time of the Dutch occupation a large artificial island was created to house a village and a large coconut plantation where people would evacuate to in the event of an invastion. Today the lake is a peaceful oasis within the business district of Colombo. We heard all of this on the short drive to the Cinnamon Lakeside Hotel where we boarded the hotel’s floating restaurant wit its translucent roof. We cruised the lake and soaked up the views as we enjoy a pre-dinner drink. As night fell we were treated to a buffet dinner while two local musicians provided light background music.

On the drive back to the ship the full day finally hit me and I was glad to drop the brothers at their cabin and head toward ours. Vit let me go first as my hair needed to dry. He is almost finished with his and when he comes out we’ll compare notes and discuss if there is anything else on our lists that we should be on the look out for here or if we can just put it off for another port.

 

[Kathy in FL]

World Cruise Day 211: Mar 30 – Colombo, Sri Lanka (Day 2)

Sailed away from Sri Lanka today. I have to say that this has been a really good day. Not because we are leaving but because … just because, though there are specific things I can and will record here that made it good. The stuff back home is still unpleasant but I’m coming to terms with it, much like my family has had to. Vit and I are doing the best we can to adjust our plans so that we can face what we will be heading into as well, but as we don’t know exactly what that might be we are determined to stay flexible. I think of the two of us Vit may understand better than I do what all the rationing and shortages will mean. It is how he grew up. My budget-conscious upbringing may not have me as prepared as I hope. Either way there is no changing the reality so we will face it together.

I’ve also come to understand that Vit really is older and more experienced than I am. That sounds foolish but what I may have known academically before, I have come to understand more intimately now. I realized that since our last contretemps he has been … well, managing me isn’t exactly what it is but there is a bit of that in there as well. In his words he knows what he wants and what he wants is me, not to own me but to have the right to cherish me and all that means. What he calls my “innocence” is part of that, so he protects me. It was a hit to my pride to finally comprehend that; that he has been protecting me and guiding me and doing it for my own good, and his peace of mind. That’s a lot of work to put into a person at the same time he wasn’t doing it to control me but to help me. And he has.

For his part he said it was a struggle to come to understand that my “innocence” did not mean that I wasn’t a strong and capable person in my own right. He is doing what he can not to strangle my independence because I’ve earned it. Robert would never have even bothered with such deep thoughts much less try to grow enough for both of us so we could have a healthy relationship. That level of maturity gave me a lot to think about. I don’t necessarily regret my “innocence” but at the same time I know that some of it needs to mature so that Vit and I can face what life will inevitably dump on us; and face it together as a team. While that gives me a tremendous amount to think about … and act on … it is also comforting, something that has finally driven out the last of my recent fear and insecurities. I never had deep discussions like this with Robert. Oh they felt “deep” at the time but in hindsight I can see they were either one-sided or more superficial than I wanted to accept.

And today’s excursion was just something so memorable that it was the icing on the cake. Not like when Vit and I hiked the mountain, but sweet and wonderful in its own right. After a two-hour trek by 4x4, Frankie, I and a small group from the ship visited Pinnawala elephant orphanage, part of Sri Lanka’s leading wildlife conservation center. From the beginning our group was captivated by the sight of these gentle giants as we witnessed their daily walk to bathe in the river, and their play and interaction with their handlers. Yes, I know the elephants aren’t people but the way the people at the center and the animals interacted it was a bit like a human family. There were leaders and followers, quirky personalities, more serious elders … it was obvious if you just paid attention.

We were just in time to see the younger members of the herd being bottle-fed. The sanctuary specializes in the rehabilitation of abused or orphaned elephants, and invites a limited number of tourists to view these remarkable animals up close, as they benefit from the exceptional care of their handlers. We were privileged to get firsthand experience of wildlife rehabilitation as we watched the largest herd of captive elephants in the world roam free across large expanses of land. Amazingly they used both modern veterinary medicine and traditional indigenous practices to heal the elephants of their injuries … some of which weren’t just physical. It was fascinating.

I know on the surface that alone may indeed seem special but that isn’t really what made my day, and apparently the handlers there as well. It happened while we were feeding some of the elephants some fruit. It started as a mistake. I backed up to allow Frankie to feed a particularly feisty fellow and wasn’t watching how close I was getting to another enclosure. Suddenly I felt a tug on my braid that I had left long. I thought at first I had caught it on something, not an unusual event. Then I froze. A trunk was wrapped around my braid, as in baby elephant trunk.

“Miss. Be still please. Do not frighten the bebe.”

“Never. He’s adorable.”

When they tried to get the very small elephant to disengage, he refused and cried, pulling me back against the fence. I said, “He’s not hurting anything. He’ll lose interest soon enough, like all babies do.” I was equating him with my nieces and nephews. Only, the baby elephant just kept crying and some of the other elephants were picking up on his distress. They removed some of the fence slats and I climbed into the pen, stepping in some elephant poo but I didn’t register it at the time.

“Miss. Please walk with me.” So I walked around the pen and the baby elephant seemed content to follow me. Then he must have smelled a nursing female elephant as he cried again.

“Miss. This small one was stolen by poachers. He has refused the bottle since arriving and is growing weak.” The handler explained that one of the other nursing female elephants had approached him the day before, but the baby was too frightened. He wanted to know if I would walk the baby closer to the female. They explained that it would be a little dangerous, but they would do all to protect me.

I looked at the baby elephant and then looked at the female elephant and it was like she wanted that baby even though she already had one of her own. I just started walking towards her right side so she could see me. The handlers were very quiet. At the time I didn’t know why but it is because the other females in the herd had fanned out into a horseshoe shape and the handlers weren’t sure if they were being aggressive or protective.

I walked the baby near and he just stood there rocking from foot to foot. I told him, “Now listen here. I know exactly how you are feeling. I’ve been right where you are standing. You’re scared and you don’t know who to trust. But this lady here looks like she wants you. Look there, she’s got just what you need and is willing to give it. Come along now and take a chance. You’ll be glad you did.”

I doubt any of the elephants understood what I was saying but the tone must have gotten through some how. The baby elephant let go of my braid and after only a brief hesitation started nursing hungrily. As the handlers directed me to move back slowly, I told the female elephant, “He’s going to be stubborn and skittish. All of us orphans are for a bit. Good luck.”

The handler, little more than a boy himself, helped me out of the enclosure and then over to where I could clean my shoe with Frankie’s laughing help. “That was soooo cooooool! I got it all on my camera!”

“Shhhh. Not so loud Frankie. Remember, we don’t want to upset the elephants, especially not while they are adopting the little guy.”

Quieter Frankie said, “Oh. Right. Just. This is sooooo cool.”

“Yes. It is”, I told him with a smile.

The handler said, “Miss. I was an orphan too.”

I looked at him and an older man came over and patted his shoulder in a wordless good job and I realized that the baby elephant and I weren’t the only orphans to find a family of our own.

The director of the zoo himself came to tell me good bye as we were driving back to where the entrance was so we could go to the market there. After a very gracious conversation I told him, “An orphan, is an orphan, is an orphan. Or something like that. I just feel privileged that I could be here to help one orphan to find a forever family.”

I guess I went a little silly at the market but so did several of the tourists that were there, and not just those in our cruise group. I got several elephant souvenirs and then bought a bundle of paper made from elephant poo. I know that seems ridiculous, but I was riding pretty high and feeling emotionally lighter, like I had gotten rid of burdens I hadn’t even realized I was carrying.

It was a two-hour bus ride back to the pier and Frankie and I spent the time looking at a book on animals of Sri Lanka. It was a rush to get off the bus, but I wasn’t so high that I wasn’t situationally aware enough to jump when I felt a hand on my arm. It was Vit.

He had some strange look in his eyes but helped us to get through security and then I told Frankie to wash up for dinner as I needed to give my shoes a more thorough cleaning. He laughed at that but did as I asked.

When Vit and I entered the cabin he pulled me into his arms and kissed me very thoroughly.

“Not that I mind at all but is there for any reason in particular or did you miss me today?”

That’s when I found out that Frankie had uploaded the entire elephant incident to Travelling Marchand and titled it “An Orphan Is An Orphan Is An Orphan” and in the comments typed Finding a Forever Family.

“Kokhana …”

Well there was more of that until we both agreed I really did need to do something about my shoes. During dinner the story got around as the others on the excursion with us had also been recording the event. Nicholas must have collected copies of most of them and put them on a thumb drive for me. I got a message from Reggie that a lot of the family had also seen the video.

He typed, “Be prepared for some mushy stuff. About half the aunts got all gooshy about that orphan is an orphan and forever-family business.”

I have spent over an hour responding to emails but for once nothing was sad or stress-inducing. I only hope it will last a few more days at least.

 

[Kathy in FL]

World Cruise Day 212: Mar 31 – Cruise the Laccadive Sea

Vit is a stinker. I’m still not sure why he waited until today as we were sitting on the verandah enjoying a momentary break while the brothers had lunch with their grandmother. He said he did not want to take away from my enjoyment of yesterday. I just shook my head and told him that my enjoyment shouldn’t come before his own as I know he likes finding a good bargain nearly as much as I do. He finally laughed at that and agreed to show me.

Sapphires and moonstones. Both specialties of Sri Lanka. He also bought a miniature, elephant-themed chess set made of gemstones. The chess set base will not fit in the safe so we wrapped it and put it away in his drawer under his clothes. The game pieces however are there in their own bags with the gems. I hope Vit knows what he is doing. He says that some things he buys are for immediate usage and some are for long term storage of wealth and some are for transferring wealth between generations. He sounds like Charlie when he says things like that. Of us all, Charlie has the least college … as in none at all as he went to work with a friend’s father’s construction business … but he is the one with the most financial sense or expertise or whatever you want to call it. It is strange how that works, at least in this instance.

Today we are sailing the Laccadive Sea which borders Sri Lanka, the Maldives, and India. The sea is said to be richly biodiverse but at the same time, of all the commercial fishing that takes place, 70% of it is tuna. Another fun fact I learned at the port talk is that there are 25,000 sea cucumber divers and 5,000 seaweed collectors operating in the sea. Strange careers but it works for this area though the seaweed harvest has been cut in half due to the best seaweed forests now being under national park protections.

My shoes have finally dried but still have a bit of an odor to them, even after I sprayed them and doused them with foot powder. I hope it wears off. Not really loving the idea of having people sniff the air and wonder what the smell is when I’m around.

I’m off to rinse my hair; all the sweating I do really sours my hair between washes. Vit and Nicholas are making a late night of it and Frankie is already in bed. This heat is really taking it out of him when we are active during the day. Poppa was fond of “early to bed and early to rise” but I think I will watch his diet a bit more. I don’t want to leave him vulnerable to a virus. I was barely finished with the first movement on my violin when he was hard asleep.

 

[Kathy in FL]

World Cruise Day 213: Apr 1 – Cochin, India

I cannot believe how much Vit and I knocked off our list today. Not that it should be my first consideration. Frankie is. I’m a little concerned how he is being affected by the heat. If this keeps up I will mention it to Madam. He was better after I made him some electrolyte drink that I found in the bottom of our snack supplies. Vit said he noticed the same thing with Nicholas the last time he played a full soccer game. I wish I knew a good place to purchase that sort of thing from. Vit said he will ask some of the crew as they may know, or may even been willing to pick up a few for the brothers … for a consideration of course. Whatever, I’m willing to pay it. I’ve been very frugal with the money given me on the card for Frankie’s upkeep. This is beginning to seem like a necessity and not just a luxury so price isn’t my top concern.

We docked in Cochin, India promptly at our scheduled 7 am where we were greeted by an elephant and an Indian band. Nicholas thought it was hilarious and we waited in line so that he and Frankie could get their picture taken. It was a surprisingly modern facility with a large duty-free shop but there was no time to explore after the picture line.

Clothing rules are strictly conservative, and the newsletter had impressed on all of us to dress accordingly. Even Frankie wore lightweight linen slacks and a short sleeve button down shirt. I opted for a short sleeved maxi dress. I felt conspicuous but at the same time my other wardrobe pieces were either too heavy, dirty, or not appropriate for some other reason. I also wore my hair up in a crown braid to keep it off my neck.

Our sailaway was to be at 3 pm so we were eager to get going to enjoy the time as we could, while the day was still cool. Vit and Nicholas joined us on the excursion. After a short transfer by tuk-tuk we started our private walking tour at Fort Kochi observing the Chinese fishing nets, which were introduced by traders from the court of Kublai Khan in the 14th century. Kochi fishermen still use these fishing nets to earn their livelihoods. We continued walking down to St. Francis Church, the oldest European Chistian church in India. The church was constructed in 1503 by Portuguese friars and is now the burial place of Vasco da Gama, a Portuguese explorer who led the first ships that sailed directly from Europe to India. The church has a large cemetery that once served as a resting ground for Vasco da Gamma.

After our walk we transferred to Mattancherry in an Auto Rickshaw which the brothers found fascinating. I admit it was quite different, but it made me nervous with so much other motorized traffic on the road. We disembarked and saw the Santa Cruz Basilica, one the largest and most impressive churches in India. The church has two soaring spires and a bright, white-washed exterior that is nearly blinding in the sun. Inside, we found the walls decorated with frescoes, murals, and large paintings depicting scenes from the life of Jesus Christ.

Next came Mattancherry Palace, built by the Portuguese and presented to the Raja of Kochi in 1555. The palace is famous for its stunning murals portraying scenes from Hindu tales, such as the Ramayana and Mahabharata. It was quite jarring to see supposedly pagan practices inside what started as a Christian building. Next door is the Paradesi Synagogue, the oldest active synagogue in South India. There was a lot to admire in the building including the ornate brass pulpit, the Belgian glass chandelier, and hand-painted Chinese porcelain floor tiles.

We ended the excusion by wandering around the neighboring Jew Town, a central location for the spice trade, and inhale the aroma of ginger, cardamom, turmeric, and cloves. The name was far from politically correct, but as it has been in use for centuries, I don’t think current standards are going to change it one bit. It was in this area that Vit and a few of the other members of our group decided to practice some capitalism.

Vit had already warned me that he’d won another good hand the previous night and needed to unload some of the cash so that one of the more aggressive players did not try and win it back.

“And how are they going to know you no longer have it?”

“O’Rourke is going to let it out that I tried my hand at one of the local gambling dens … and lost quite heavily. There will be some laughter at my expense but that will be to my benefit.”

“Vit …”

“Kokhana …”

“No. I’m not going to ask you to stop but I am asking you to be careful. I see the signs. You are playing some deep game and I suspect Dylan is in there somewhere either encouraging you or outright asking you to do something. Fine. You’re both grown men and I’m not going to interfere. Just remember … I love you. Be careful.”

He accepted my need to tell him and I accepted his need to do whatever it is anyway. But I swear Dylan better not be putting him in danger or he will have to explain to Nichelle why I’m wearing his ears on a string around my neck.

He bought a set of Gamcha towels which are a little hard to explain unless you have used one yourself. They are basically thin, handwoven, pure cotton towels … a traditional bathing towel. Some of them are almost like a sheet but I can see how they would be just as pleasant to use as a big, fluffy towel. Certainly, they would dry more readily on the clothesline without getting stiff or rough. The two other textiles he purchased he asked me to pick out; two sets of beaded bed sheets and several beaded tablecloths. I’ve never had anything as beautiful and I’m not sure I could put them on the bed year-round, but perhaps for special occasions or on a guest bed.

Then so that we’d have something to give at the holidays he bought several spice boxes and dibbis (enamel boxes). We were on our way out of the market area when I saw some kurta, the distinctive cotton shirts that Indian men wear. I got two each for all three of them. I hope that helps with the heat. Well then Vit insisted on buying several saris. Where I will wear them I don’t know, but they are beautiful enough that I can see decoating with them some how. And then I hit up what I guess is equal to an apothecary where I got several bottles of botanical essential oils to go with the collection I have started, and some henna dye because Rhonda can’t use commercial dyes on her hair.

We really did need to hustle back to the ship in our tuk-tuk and we gave the driver a good tip for getting us there with enough time that we didn’t have to dash up the gangway. The remainder of the day has been a lazy one of sitting in the pool and then on the deck to cool off. It is cooler now that the sun is down and Vit wants me to go to dinner with them so I will go … and act as a buffer in case the pushy gambling man won’t take no for an answer.

 

[Kathy in FL]

World Cruise Day 214: Apr 2 – Cruise the Arabian Sea

The Arabian Sea. It brings to mind Ali Baba, Aladdin, Scheherazade, Sinbad, and other such stories. Much like the Disney animated versions of many of the Grimm Brother’s tales, what we think we know of the stories are quite tame compared to the originals. I went over the basics with Frankie but many of the stories simply aren’t age appropriate. I hesitate to sound professorial but, much like the original “Little Mermaid,” they are seriously disturbing, from the tortured-by-oysters scene to the fact that she doesn’t get the prince, is faced with either killing him or dissolving into sea foam, and when she chooses not to kill him she gets turned into a ghost that has to spend the next 300 years doing good deeds just on the off chance she might get a soul and return to life. Oy. How depressing. And thus are the stories in the Arabian Nights.

The real Arabian Sea hasn’t been romantic or light today either. It hasn’t been the worst storm we’ve been in, but it hasn’t exactly been a sprinkle either. I was supposed to have a salon appointment today but during my appointment time the sea was too rough, and the salon was closed. Instead of rescheduling Vit offered to trim off the dead ends and I threw caution to the wind and let him. He used a tape measure and square. No, I’m not kidding. I am now in possession of the fact that my ears are a slightly different height from one another. I told him if he was going to be a nervous wreck that he didn’t have to do it again.

“Nii. I … want to do this correct.”

“You did. But …”

He kissed me. “I will not be so nervous next time.”

I noticed he didn’t said he wouldn’t be nervous, just that he wouldn’t be so nervous.

Other than that I used my time as wisely as I could catching up with organizing pictures, post cards, and Frankie’s school portfolio. I added a few more pages to the scrapbook I am making for him. I practiced a new-to-me piece on the violin. And tried to keep Frankie occupied so he wouldn’t automatically want to go take a motion sickness pill and sleep away the day. Vit seemed to have the best luck by telling him to imagine that he is going on an adventure to track down and sketch rare birds. It got him through the most of it except for one hour and we managed that by making a ginger ale slushie for him. He was quite proud of himself. I was as well. That was a fear that didn’t need to be encouraged.

The sea has finally calmed down enough that Vit and I felt it was safe to take a shower. I took one and rinsed my hair and Vit will soon be out and then it will be bedtime. Tomorrow is Goa, India and I’m excited for the day. I also need to find that Curry Powder that I promised to Christine.

 

[Kathy in FL]

World Cruise Day 215: Apr 3 – Goa (Mormugao), India

Goa, India. One of the richest states in India. And until 1961, was still a Portuguese colony (and had been for more than four centuries). Its influence remains in the city’s grand colonial architecture, reportedly some of the most impressive in all of India. I wouldn’t doubt it based on what we saw.

We had to start the day quickly as we only had until 3 pm. We were picked up at the pier and then traveled by blessed air-conditioned coach to the Cumbarjua Canal. Our guide and lifeguard traveled with us on the ferry for a 3-hour crocodile-spotting cruise. We boarded our boat at Cortalim Jetty for a cruise along the Cumbharjua Canal. Also known as “Crocodile Dundee” – which seemed rather unfortunate if you want to know my opinion – those scenic backwaters run through the most densely inhabited crocodile territory of Goa, or so explained our guide. The local crew has years of experience and keen eyes to spot and point out the estuarine crocs, which were often well camouflaged. The boatmen maneuvered the craft slowly and cautiously, so as not to spook the crocs, and guests were requested to remain silent as well which was definitely a struggle for some of them when they would get excited.

The mangrove-lined canal is also a haven for lizards, mongoose, and monkeys, and is a bird watcher’s paradise. Yes, I said birds. Ugh. One of the things we discovered was that this is the only place in Goa where crocodiles coexist peacefully with the local fishing community. We saw quite a few and most everyone was fascinated but to be honest, it looked like home to me. Alligators stretch from South Florida all the way north and beyond. They are so numerous in some places they have become a dangerous nuisance, but a protected dangerous nuisance. Same for Goa. Which makes me wonder just how “peaceful” the co-existance can be if it impacts the fishermen from being able to fish. As Vit said in a whisper, when you’ve seen one swimmy thing with teeth you’ve pretty much seen them all. Good thing out fellow passengers couldn’t understand Ukrainian because they would not have shared that opinion. The upside was we were served fresh fruit and drinks on board while we were alligator-spotting in the estuary.

Afterward, we returned to the coach for a 30-minute ride to the city of Ponda, where we visited the Tropical Spice Plantation. This was more to my liking and since there were more birds, Frankie was happy. At the plantation we learned about Goa’s farming traditions on a 45-minute tour as our guide explained how locally cultivated spices are used for traditional cuisine and medicinal purposes. There was also an incredible butterfly garden as well as 75 species of birds to enthrall Frankie. We also saw cashew and coconut feni being fermented, and we were shown how locals farm betel leaves by scaling the trunks. You definitely couldn’t be afraid of heights.

The next part of the tour was Nicholas’ favorite; we got to try some of the spices ourselves with a traditional Goan buffet. Some of the dishes served included savory chicken xacuti, prawn curry, chicken cafreal, vegetarian dishes, and a rich Goan dessert called bebinca that seemed to be made primarily of flour, eggs, ghee, and coconut milk with nutmeg to flavor it. It was after the buffet that I had the opportunity to purchase plenty of curry as well as other spices including whole nutmegs. Surprisingly I was able to get several ounces of real saffron at an excellent price. Mrs. O’Rourke, who was with us, said we should keep our eyes out for deals like that as we’d never see such prices back home. I agreed and went back and bought twice as much of the saffron as I had the first time around. I can always share it with my sisters.

After leaving the Plantation we travelled next to the famous Basilica of Bom Jesus, home to the mummified body of St. Francis Xavier, the patron saint of Goa. No, I’m not kidding. It weirded a couple of our fellow passengers out. We also visited the Se cathedral, which according to our guide took 62 years to complete. The north tower collapsed in 1776 after being struck by lightning, and there are also stories of a golden ball in south tower. Then it was a quick run back to the ship. We managed to pack a lot into the day by starting early.

The remainder of the day has run smoothly as well. A couple of lessons, some exercise in the pool, followed by the evening meal, ice cream, and for something different there was a “movie under the stars” on the top deck. Frankie nearly fell asleep in the middle of it but that’s okay. I thought the movie rather silly and insipid myself despite it being a new release. I returned to the cabin after taking Frankie to his. Vit and Nicholas opted out of the movie as there was some sports something or other they wanted to watch.

I’m going to take a shower, rinse my hair, and make an early night of it. I have a feeling that tomorrow is going to be a bit of a challenge.

 

[Kathy in FL]

World Cruise Day 216: Apr 4 – Mumbai, India

Oh my word, what a long day. Loved it but still, it’s been exhausting. Mumbai has a population of over 20 million, and that’s without the tourist and transient migrants. There were places where it was wall-to-wall people and I wished for a harness for Frankie. And Vit probably wished for a harness for both of us as it was way too easy to get separated.

I made sure to remind everyone to eat a hardy breakfast as I wasn’t at all sure of our schedule or access to food that any of them would want to eat … or in Vit’s case be able to. Indian food tends to be spicy and even though his stomach is better there is no need to do something intentional to send it back in the other direction. I did bring a couple of granola bars but since I was discouraged from bringing the “magic backpack” there wasn’t the room to carry things that there normally was.

There were some uncomfortable warnings in our newsletter last night concerning Mumbai. In addition to all the standard warnings about carrying ID, copies of your IDs, pick pockets, only drink bottled water, obey signs that instruct “no pictures,” etc., there were some specifically directed toward females. Women should specifically opt for compartments in local trains that are reserved for them. Women should always avoid travelling in general men’s compartment as chances of getting harassed are very high. Women should certainly avoid travelling alone at night or should not travel during the night time at all. Roaming on the beaches of Mumbai will not be similar to Goa or Kerala. So make sure you dress modestly and appropriately. Avoid visiting places that are isolated as the chances of getting molested and mobbed are fairly high at such places. Make sure you carry your own toilet paper wherever you go, as you never know when you’ll require one. If you happen to go out to clubs, make sure you NEVER leave your drinks unattended. Also ensure you have your transportation back to your hotel pre-arranged. Avoid public displays of affection, even when travelling with your spouse. There were actually thirty travel safety suggestions. It made me wary and I was glad that Vit and Nicholas would be with us.

Our day started promptly at 8 am when we disembarked and were picked up by an air-conditioned vehicle that took us to board a ferry for the 1-hour ride to Elephanta Island, home to the World Heritage-listed Elephanta Caves. The ancient cave temples date to the fifth century, carved with stunning reliefs and statues that honor the Hindu god Shiva. I will admit to knowing very little of Hinduism. I won’t try and publish what I do know. But I must admit that Shiva freaked me out a little. His color is white from the ashes of burnt human bodies. His neck is blue from poison, though I didn’t understand the story that was told. He has a necklace of skulls around his neck. And he has multiple arms that sometimes carry swords. Brrrr. Nightmare inducing diety if you ask me, but I was careful to keep my opinion to myself in order not to be rude.

After touring the cave temples, we returned by ferry and started our city tour at the Gateway of India, a colonial-era monument that dates to 1924 and overlooks the harbor. The first stop on our city tour was lunch. Since it was basically at our discretion, and I knew we had a dinner excursion later in the day, I all but begged the others to be satisfied with what I was able to pull from my bag. I didn’t trust the street vendors I saw as their cleanliness was in question. The markets didn’t look much better with the flies that settled everywhere. And the restaurants appeared to have the same issues. Our group of four wasn’t the only ones that didn’t partake. Later we had some reason to be thankful though it was a struggle at the time to keep Nicholas from acting like he was starving to death. We found out a couple from our excursion had pretty severe gastric upsets and the ship’s doctor has confined them to their cabin rather than risk it spreading to the remainder of the ship.

After the food break we drove to Mumbai’s Heritage Precinct, where numerous historic buildings stand in the area once enclosed by British fortress walls. We rode passed the General Post Office, Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus (Victoria Station); a historic railway station in Mumbai and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We saw the Municipal Corporation building. Next, we browsed Mahatma Jyotiba Phule Market (formerly known as Crawford Market) that was brimming with fruits and flowers and where we were warned of the pickpocket problem yet again. We continued our drive past St. Xavier’s College, the Western Railway Headquarters and Bombay Gymkhana. We paused at the Cathedral Church of St. Thomas to explore its stunning interior. There we continued on foot to view the spectacular exteriors of the Flora Fountain, Bombay University, High Court buildings, David Sassoon Library, Army and Navy building, Jehangir Art Gallery and Prince of Wales Museum.

We wound up back at the Gateway to India, where we were given free time for shopping along Colaba Causeway. That seemed to be what several of the other passengers had been waiting for. I must admit some of the prices were stunningly low but I won’t recount our purchases yet. After free time, we returned to the bus that was waiting impatiently, making other drivers more than a little cranky, and from there we saw the scenic coastline along Marine Drive, which runs next to the Arabian Sea from Nariman Point to Girgaum Chowpatty and on to Malabar Hill.

I was feeling a bit rushed from place to place but the number of people packed into every square inch didn’t allow any of our stops to be relaxing or quiet. After the coastline we saw panoramic views of South Mumbai from the Hanging Gardens (Pherozeshah Mehta Gardens) on Malabar Hill, then stopped at the Mani Bhawan (Gandhi Museum), a Gujarati-style residence that served as the headquarters for Mahatma Gandhi's organizing.

Next, we did manage to get some great photo ops of Mahalaxmi Dhobi Ghat, the largest unmechanized laundry facility in the world, and the Prince of Wales Museum before winding up back at the pier. Whew. However, we had no sooner put our foot on the ground than Mr. O’Rourke was hustling us all to a waiting van. This was not part of the plan and even Vit look momentarily confused.

“We should hurry. Madam expects you to join us. And you too Miss Veta. And bring young Francis along. Spit spot as me wife would say. They’re in a mood to do some shopping and we best not keep them from their fun,” he said.

But considering the grin Mr. O’Rourke had on his face, and the frankly wickedly humorous glance he gave Vit, I knew the ladies weren’t the only ones wanting to do some shopping. Our next few hours were spent immersing ourselves in a cavalcade of colors, sounds, tastes and smells on a tour of Mumbai’s most memorable markets. We started at Bhuleshwar, one of the most popular markets in Mumbai, or so our driver told us. It was difficult to find my feet in this unbelievably crowded market. The problem was that I got hooked bargain shopping just like everyone else. I purchased several sets of colorful glass bangles, a few more saris, and some costume jewelry that caught my eye. I justified it by saying I could tuck them away for Christmas and birthday gifts down the road.

Next, we went back to Crawford Market, originally named after Bombay's first municipal commissioner, Arthur Crawford. The current name as I learned earlier is for an activist who specialized in women’s rights. I noticed that it is a blenad of Flemish and Norman architecture since this trip to the market wasn’t quite so frenetic. It has a bas-relief above its main entrance depicting Indian peasants in wheat fields that was created by Lockyard Kipling, father of the famous author Rudyard Kipling and Nicholas put Frankie on his shoulders, big kid that he is now, so that he could get a picture of it above the throngs of people. Except for the way people dress and the browner skin tones, Crawford Market looks like something out of Victorian London, with its sweet smell of hay and 50-foot-high awning that filtered the entire place with natural sunlight. The only thing I purchased there was some Indian tea and mostly because I felt conspicuous for the fact I wasn’t buying anything.

We also stopped at Colaba Causeway, another return visit for the four of us. And, even though we’d done some shopping there earlier Vit was more than happy to direct the others to some of the stalls, shops, and vendors that we’d found that sold everything from slippers to books, shawls to antiques and carpets to curios. We didn’t buy one of everything as Madam seemed to be doing but we certainly did our fair share of keeping the local economy humming along. When Mr. O’Rourke and Vit stepped into a small shop I knew something was going on but the others seemed oblivious. However, as I was to find out tonight, it is a good thing I didin’t know what they were doing or the look on my face would have given them away. What I purchased though kept me busy bargaining. My Marathi is mediocre at best so it was a good thing that the vendors and I were able to find common ground in other languages such as English and Portuguese which Vit has been teaching me to speak better.

Thank goodness that Colaba was the last market or my feet, head, and pocket book were going to melt down. I bought several colorful pashmina shawls, a half dozen sandalwood fans, a couple pair of good quality sandals, and three Salwar Kameez dresses. The dresses are usually layered with a long matching rectangular scarf (sometimes attached, sometimes not) that you wear salwars (pants that narrow at the ankles) beneath. The salwar kameez is usually worn in northern India but can be found all over the country. I also purchased a few kurti which look like a long shirt that falls anywhere from below the waist to below the knees. You can wear it over a long skirt or pants or salwar but you also usually pair it with a long scarf. When no one was looking I picked vit up a couple more lightweight cotton shirts that didn’t scream “cultural appropriation” so he would have something to be comfortable in and so I wouldn’t have to do laundry every other day. I also restocked our supply of mosquito repellent as it was very necessary.

It was a rush to get all of the packages into the van, out of the van, through security and then to our cabins. Madam had purchased the brothers several extra shirts as well and some “art” that she planned on adding to what I understood was a study where she kept momentos of her travels. It was there that Vit revealed what he’d gone after in the shop.

“Vit!” I said scandalized. “Are we even allowed to … to …”

“I have a certificate to prove they were honestly purchased.”

“Of course they were honestly purchased. That’s NOT what I’m talking about. Isn’t there some kind of … I don’t know … import laws against that stuff?!”

“Nii,” he said with an indulgent grin. “It is not enough to arouse the suspicion of the inspectors.”

The crazy man had purchased some uncut diamonds. They were’t huge chunks but that didn’t stop my heart from racing. He’d also purchased cold and silver ingots which at least had the appropriate stamps on them. And then there was the cut rubies. Five of them. They looked like drops of blood. Sure, they are locked in the safe but I’d like to lock the safe in another safe … and maybe chain and padlock that one shut as well. Oh my goodness. But I didn’t have much time for palpitations as we still had dinner to get to.

I might have worn one of the new dresses but there wasn’t time to do it correctly so I wore a long skirt and tunic blouse with a pair of the new sandals. To make matters even a little more chaotic it was a Bollywood-themed dinner show and I didn’t have a clue what to expect of if I would need to be ready to cover Frankie’s eyes and ears with the fan I was carrying.

We rolled along Mumbai’s boulevards just as the sun set to arrive at a glittering art deco cinema palaces. The Regal, Plaza Central, New Empire, Broadway, Eros and Metro cinemas were all built during the 1930s boom years in the Indian film industry. We continued to Marine Drive, Mumbai's seaside promenade, with its graceful arched curve sweeping from the skyscrapers at Nariman Point to the foot of Malabar Hill. The promenade’s twinkling street lights resembled a string of jewels and is popularly known as the “Queen’s Necklace.” We finally arrived at our destination and were treated to a 45-minute Bollywood Dance performance. I only understood one word in three and the others none at all; however, the musical was typical of its genre with love, action, drama, romance, humor, and costumes. The actors really got into their parts so it was enjoyable if not completely understandable as there were some cultural points that made the actions of the players mildly inscrutable at times.

After the show we were driven to the Khyber Restaurant for a dinner of mouth-watering northwestern frontier cuisine. First off the décor was … er … very warlordish. Mughal loyalty, murals depicting dramatic scenes, and exposed brickword to give it that over the top authentic historic feel. Actually, it wasn’t nearly as bad as my words probably make it sound. It is a popular place, especially with tourists looking for “authenticity.” The menu on the other hand really was authentic and absolutely delicious; but, not the place to go if you are vegetarian or vegan. Not even if you are a pescatarian. The menu was all about that meat … beef, chicken, and lamb. Kabobs, curry, and tandoori abounded. I have to admit they did have seafood and vegetarian kabobs but they don’t appear to be a mainstay but are thrown in as a way to appease some of their clientele.

As my side I had vegetable kabobs that had been breaded with chickpea flour before deep frying and they were delish. Vit had Chicken Badaami which is chicken cooked in rich cream and almond sauce. The brothers had prawns cooked tandoori style. There was rice of course and a sampler plate of different breads like Naan, Roomati Roli (paper thin and fried), and Paratha (flavored with mint). For dessert there was Firni (a firm rice pudding), Kulfi (Indian ice cream served with sweet noodles), fresh fruit like lychee and mangoes, Chocolate Bombay which is every bit as rich and decadent as you can imagine chocolate to be. Mrs. O’Rourke had something called a Milky Way which was nothing what I expected; it was saffron pearls on a bed of sweetened condensed milk. I have to admit, as adventurous as I am foodwise, the very idea activated my gag reflex.

A couple of our fellow diners needed help getting from the dining room to the bus when then took us back to the pier. Mr. O’Rourke himself wasn’t exactly weaving but he left the steering to his wife so to speak. There wasn’t much liquor, and it wasn’t on the menu that I saw, but whatever they were drinking was strong. There was a blue curacao cooler that I almost order but instead I stuck with a non-alcoholic watermelon cooler … watermelon syrup, lime juice, and 7UP; light and very refreshing in the crowded restaurant. I noticed Vit did not partake. I’m glad but not for the reason most would think. I just happen to believe his stomach needs a break. He did drink a Virgin Mary which he allowed me a sip of and it is one of the best I’ve ever had. Rather than a dessert he had a Virgin Colada that was a bit sweeter than I normally care for, but it was still very good.

It was no struggle to suggest that the brothers take to their cabin for the night. Frankie especially was drooping. When I mentioned something to Miss Hayworth she said she would ask their Cabin Steward if we could order electrolyte drinks or if I would need to try and find a way to buy a case on shore. I told her if those two options fail that I would ask my brother for his homemade electrolyte solution that they used to make up by the cooler full when he was on missions. And I may ask him anyway. Florida summers are vastly different than what Vit is used to. Better safe than sorry. And if we have to economize I’d like to have the basic supplies on hand when we get to Pembroke.

After helping Mrs. O’Rourke get her husband to their cabin he answered a call from someone in the senior crew. I’m trying to wait up for him but I’m sinking fast. Sailaway was at 11 pm and quite frankly I’m beat.

 

[Kathy in FL]

World Cruise Day 217 and 218: Apr 5 & 6 – Cruise the Arabian Sea

Where do I begin? News from home? Incidences on the high seas? A bit of nastiness between Russia and China?

I supposed the most dramatic is the posturing between Russia and China. Someone flattened a Chinese commercial air liner. It just dropped like a rock from the sky according to the few witnesses that saw it. A Russian fighter jet was scrambled not long before that to warn off another Chinese plane that had crossed into Russian airspace. The Chinese at first thought the second plane was retribution for the first and everyone was acting like barnyard fowl … from the running around without a head version to the strutting like cock of the walk version. Or two oversized, overfed, spoiled old lions forced to share a too small cage for the first time. But then one of the Eastern Turkestan groups claimed credit. At first no one believed them until one of the stewardesses was linked to them and some proof – not given to the media – arrived and now both China and Russia are out for blood, but at least not each other’s.

The reason why Vit was called to speak to the ship’s officers is that a cruise ship in the Polynesian islands was hijacked by pirates. As in “Aye, ye scurvy dogs” pirates. The captain, willing to use every resource he could, basically wanted to know what Vit thought about the incident. The cruise ship in question turns out to be only slightly larger than an oversized yacht. The likelihood of a single pirate group taking on something the size of the Viking Sun or larger probably isn’t very high, but then again stories of the Achilli Lauro hijacking made their way around the ship when the other incident made it to the news. I know that happened all the way back in 1987 but if it can happen once it can happen twice, and the first time it happened off the Egyptian coast which is an area of he world we are soon to be sailing into. Of course that was about terrorism and not piracy, but still.

And the news from home. Internet rationing has been lifted due to a court case but rolling brown outs have become the norm in many places, including Pembroke. I got a rather lengthy, rambling email from Angelia apologizing over and over again because she hasn’t gotten more done but that the lack of freezer space has hampered her. She sounded badly stressed. I wasn’t sure who to contact and then I had some brainchild thought to contact Christine.

Christine: Hang on and I’ll get Derrick.

Me: Actually it was you I needed. Angie is freaking out. Or at least she is pretty darn close to it. Do you know who is supposed to be helping her with the garden?

Christine: I am, the kids, Barbie and Rhonda when they can. Nichelle tries but …”

Me: Yea. Angie said she can’t tell the different between a pea and a dandelion. She used to drive Momma crazy too and I was never sure if it was on purpose or she really is that clueless about plants. Do me a favor … and if you don’t feel you can I understand … but try and get Derrick to talk to her. If she can’t do it all then she can’t do it all. People forget that Momma could be tough when she needed to be and more than a few times she let us kids fail when her continued helping was doing more harm than good. Everyone should know where their food comes from and how much work it takes. Momma and Poppa both raised me that way … they raised all of us that way … some simply didn’t get the message or they’ve forgotten. And Angie is trying to take up the slack. You all shouldn’t be the only ones doing the work while the rest of us get the benefit.

It took a moment but Christine responded: Thanks. I thought maybe I was misreading things.”

Me: No. Angie has a bad habit of trying to fill Momma’s shoes when what she is filling isn’t Momma’s because Momma knew when to say no, when she had to say no because of her health. Tal is a sweet guy but he’s really Type A and drives himself just as hard. They need each other to slow the other down but … it probably isn’t happening right now. Tal wants to make hay while the sun shines since he has all of that insurance work. Angie is trying to do more than her share. The rest of you are getting dragged along and some of the others aren’t … well they just aren’t. If I was there I’d help fill the gap but I’m not. I’ll be home as soon as I can … only about a month to go … but Angie is going to be a basket case by then if someone doesn’t step in. Derrick can usually reach her … if he will.

Christine: He’s working too and I think he just assumes all of the rest of you are doing so as well. I’ll talk to him when he comes out of the study.

Me: What’s Big Bro up to? Or is it confidential?

Christine: I don’t know about confidential but don’t let it get around. He’s trying to help get a replacement clinic in Pembroke. The last one closed here two years ago and now most everyone has to travel to Jacksonville or Lake City. We don’t even have a MedExpress around here anymore.

Me: Sounds right up his alley. So long as he listens to his own doctors.

Christine: He’s doing that. Or else.

I smiled realizing that my brother may have just met his match. I told her I got the curry and would bring it home as soon as I could. She was thrilled but our conversation got interrupted by a brown out. I sat and thought about it for a while. As well as the other things that Dylan and Charlie had shared with Vit. They wanted to know if he could still shoot, of all things. Some of the conversation was put in terms of hunting but I think they also sent him some articles on the Castle Doctrine and what he’d need to do to get a concealed carry. I didn’t know that non-US citizens qualified for concealed carry permits but apparently once you get your green card and permanent resident status, you have all the rights and responsibilities of a full citizen except the right to vote in federal elections and in some states like Florida they cannot vote in state or local elections either.

I asked him last night what his long term plans were.

“You are asking if I wish to become a US citizen.”

“Well … yes.”

“That is my plan.”

“But is that what you want Vit?”

“You do not wish me to?”

“Stop worrying about what I want or don’t want. I want to know what you want. You are already giving up so much to follow me to Pembroke. I don’t even honestly know if you aren’t being run over by the rest of us.”

He relaxed and then came over where I was organizing my post cards yet again. “You will wear the photos off of those cards.”

I shrugged. “I’m OCD.”

“Nii. You have fear and are trying not to show it. Stop. I will not leave you. As for what you are asking? In a perfect world we would both have grown up with families in Ukraine and lived happily ever after there. But this is not a perfect world and thinking otherwise is just a fantasy. The land I was born in … was never mine because I was never allowed to consider it so. I was never more than a burden or obligation there. In your US I have a chance to be more … much more … and with my own hands and work. No one will tell me I can’t be this or that. I will tell myself that by my efforts I will be this or that. There will always be a piece of Ukraine in my heart … but you hold a much bigger piece. It is a more than fair trade. Now come, let’s go walk what you call the … er … whoolyboogers … off by circumnavigating the promenade a few times.”

I have to trust that Vit’s feelings won’t change, but I’m under no illusion that it will be easy. For either of us. We both have an unknown future ahead of us. The only known is that we’ll have each other on the journey.

 

[Kathy in FL]

World Cruise Day 219: Apr 7 – Muscat, Oman

From last night’s newsletter: “Foreigners are generally made to feel very welcome in Oman, although in return you’ll be expected to abide scrupulously by Omani cultural norms. This remains a deeply traditional – and in many ways very conservative – country, and despite its sometimes superficially westernized appearance and growing openness to tourists, old attitudes run extremely deep.” Uh yes, I would say so.

Another bit: “Dressing appropriately is perhaps the single most important thing to remember. Women should wear loose clothing, with arms and shoulders covered. Skirts, if worn, should reach at least beneath the knee, although wearing loose-fit trousers is probably a better option. It’s also useful to carry a shawl to cover your hair in more conservative areas. Dress codes are less crucial for men, although many Omanis will look rather askance at males dressed in tight or thigh-length shorts or sleeveless shirts – below-the-knee shorts may be okay, although it’s best to err on the side of caution and wear trousers, even if it means foregoing a tan. For both men and women, it helps to dress conservatively, especially in rural areas. Ripped jeans, combat fatigues, T-shirts with inappropriate slogans or images and elaborate piercings are unlikely to play well. “

“As throughout Arabia, it pays to keep your cool. Expressions of overt anger and any raising of the voice should be strictly avoided, whatever the situation. It’s also worth knowing that even innocuous hand gestures are punishable under Omani law, if deemed offensive.” And didn’t that confound a few of our more … er … emotionally outspoken … fellow passengers. Taboo subjects were generally listed as indepth politics, any criticism of Islam, and negative comments about Oman. Some of those can result in jail and/or fines. There were a few more innocuous suggestions such as being careful of how you interact with the opposite gender but that is standard.

It all made me half-way tempted to stay on the ship but on the other hand I didn’t want to be a coward either. But I did act circumspect and dress conservatively. I had a pair of 1940s style wide trousers and a very blousy tunic that thankfully matched. I was almost over warm most of the day but oh well. I also had a scarf that I tucked into my handbag. I heard some women muttering but no one actively refusing to be careful. A few opted to remain onboard but I think that was more from fear than refusal to dress as suggested.

Our first activity was a Muscat city tour. The snarky part of my brain wondered if I was going to be relegated to the back of the bus but it wasn’t like that at all. The people were really friendly but they simply didn’t directly interact with the females if there was not a male present. Not to be standoffish but to observe their cultural and religious norms of good behavior.

We enjoyed an excellent introduction to Muscat, the country’s political, economic and commercial hub. The city itself is a mix of medieval, traditional and modern architecture all combined into something that that is uniquely Omani. We set off into a whitewashed cityscape, stopping for photos at the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque. This huge place of worship can accommodate 20,000 worshippers. In a sense it reminded me a bit of the mega churches back in the states but didn’t feel quite as friendly, or maybe it was more formal like an old cathedral or something. Either way it seemed stiff and formal.

From there we went to the city center to visit the House of al Zubair museum, a private collection owned by His Excellency Mohammad Al Zubair, who was an advisor to His Majesty the Sultan for Economic Planning Affairs. We were allowed time to browse remarkably preserved items of Omani heritage, including weaponry, jewelry, clothing, photographs, paintings, maps and more. It gave me a better understanding of the country’s history.

Our last stop was the Muttrah Souk, an outdoor emporium of shops steeped in local culture and color. While there Vit was … strange. He was friendly with shop owners and male passersby; however, if anyone came too close to Frankie and I there was something in his eyes that … I can’t explain it exactly. It was more than a “this is mine, not yours” look. It was a … protectiveness. I say again I can’t explain it with words, I just know what I felt and even that is hard to explain.

We were allowed to explore as long as we wished and could return to the ship by shuttle at our leisure but I’ll be honest, I was uncomfortable in general and was more than willing to stay in the background and let the others do the talking. I know that is not very modern, but I am just being honest about my feelings. I was actually treated very nicely by shopkeepers and other locals, but it was still easier to keep to myself. I let Vit handle Frankie in the public areas.

The only thing I asked Vit to do for me was purchase some real Frankincense. I wanted it for our Christmas creche though Vit doesn’t know it yet. Vit purchased a few odds and ends but not much as he was watching for something though I didn’t realize it. Or at least I didn’t recognize it until I heard Mr. O’Rourke’s distinctive voice. Mrs. O’Rourke, Madam, and Miss Haywood were there as well and they all had on their “professional” faces. I noted they’d chosen to wear dresses with trousers beneath, very similar and color to what I saw the Omani women around me wearing. I felt like an out of place country cousin in my black and brown next to their colorful and chic ensembles. What I had thought of as conservative just appeared drab. And I must admit I was sweating like a pig.

Mr. O’Rourke led us to a café where a corner was reserved for our party. I must admit my feelings of intimidation lasted through out the remainder of our day on land. The food was delicious – I had majboos which is a basmati rice dish with chicken an unique spice blends. I had a green salad with it rather than the yogurt it is usually served with simply because of the heat. I chose the crisp Omani bread that is as big as a dinner plate but reminds me a bit of a thin cracker or tortilla. The beverage – for all but Frankie – was Kahwa. Kahwa means coffee in Arabic, but Omani “coffee” has a different taste and texture as it is usually mixed with cardamon powder. It is considered an essential part of Omani hospitality. Most Omanis drink kahwa several times a day. Think of it like a very strong espresso with cardamom mixed in. And yes, I can attest that it is an acquired taste.

For dessert we had Halwa, the most famous Omani sweet. It has a texture that is thicker than custard, and although brown-colored, there is no chocolate in it. Halwa consists of sugar, honey, rose water, eggs, several Omani spices and nuts, and is usually served with kahwa and dates. Dates are another one of those essential hospitality foods. Halwa is also a type of dish where one pan, bowl, or plate is brought to the table and everyone in the party eats from it with their own spoon. Frankie liked it after his first tentative taste. It reminded me a bit of a very stiff flan. On the other hand, while the texture didn’t bother me the taste will never be my favorite, but I did eat it to be polite.

I was keeping a “stiff upper lip” and all that because I knew the next part of the day was going to be even more trying for me than the first part. I’m just a teacher … a female teacher. This is not my vacation, but my job. I don’t know why I’m so ambivalent about what went on this afternoon. It didn’t really bother me exactly, but then again yes it did. For the sake of propriety I had to sit out the activity in the boat. I didn’t mind that part so much since I knew Vit would be looking after Frankie. But the reason why I had to sit out the activity in the boat does bother me. Yet, it is another culture. I was in their country with their rules and laws. And yet …

The excursion was a dolphin-watching boat ride and snorkeling adventure. While sightings are never guaranteed, Oman is one of the best places in the world to spot dolphins and migrating whales the whole year round, and we certainly saw our share. I am choosing to focus on that, and the amazing pictures we all got, rather than my disappointment in the other.

After lunch we were escorted to the marina and boarded the boat to search the seas for some of the marine mammals we’d come to see. That part was great. It was afterwards when I had to redirect Frankie’s awkward “why” that it made it difficult for me. Vit and the brothers were given the chance to snorkel in the coral-filled waters of Bandar Khayran. The water was beautiful and clear and the sheltered coves and bays made for calm waters and optimal snorkeling conditions. From the pictures that Vit took they saw an amazing array of exotic marine life; clown fish, seahorses, and striped sergeant fish just to name a few. There were also rays, cuttlefish, and sea turtles.

I remained in the boat while the others (all males) took to the water. The crew that remained in the boat studiously ignored me. Not because they were acting superior but because in Omani culture, men do not approach or acknowledge noticing an unaccompanied female and for the time that Vit and the others were in the water I was “unaccompanied.” For their culture they were treating me with polite respect. To me it felt very … lonely. I would have liked to have asked questions but between the language barrier and the culture barrier, I didn’t think it was appropriate.

The only other port I can think of that I was as eager to leave was French Guiana, and with much less reason. Oman is a beautiful country with beautiful people, that are extremely hospitable within their cultural confines. But their culture is not my culture, and their religion not my religion, and for me it was very uncomfortable suppressing some of my natural inclinations and what I considered God-given freedoms.

I was exhausted back on the ship and nursing near heat exhaustion from the stupid idea of wearing such dark colors on such a sunny day, much less on a boat where the sun reflected off the water like a laser. I asked Frankie if he minded foregoing lessons and he looked at me like I was a pod person that had taken his teacher’s place. Nicholas said he’d take him to the pool to give me a few minutes to recover and I accepted gratefully. I was just coming out of the shower when I was startled to find Vit waiting for me.

“You are angry.”

My brain felt like molasses but I was still able to answer, “No. Don’t think that.”

“But …”

“Vit, I shouldn’t have worn black. It was the wrong thing. I should have asked rather than assume. I feel like a steamed tamale.”

“Kokhana, I did not think …” He shook his head. “There were to be three other women on the excursion. You were left alone.”

“It happens. And it isn’t your fault so stop acting sorry, I can see it on your face. It gave me time to edit some of the pictures I took.”

“You have a forgiving nature,” he said, pulling a glass of iced tea from behind his back.

“And you are very thoughtful,” I said falling on the glass like I hadn’t had anything to drink in days.

“Will you think so when I tell you I will be out late tonight?”

“Another game?”

After a short hesitation he said, “Yes.”

“Good luck. Don’t let the jerk irritate you into playing too deeply.”

“Jerk?”

“Don’t play innocent. It doesn’t become you.”

He snorted. “He is irritating, yes. But that is not a tactic that I will fall for. The yacht owner may have not been the best employer, but he was the best poker teacher.”

“Or you were just a very apt student.”

He grinned and said, “Or a bit of both.”

I agreed and repeated, “Or a bit of both.”

I finished changing and went to thank Nicholas and to take Frankie back so both brothers could dress for dinner and join their grandmother. I was surprised for the entertainment director to find me and ask if I would play in one of the private dining rooms as someone had made the request. I stopped and spoke with Miss Haywood and she said, “They should have spoken to Madam, but I know the couple the ED was referring to. There is no harm in them, just don’t let them take advantage of you. Some ‘nice people’ still act inconsiderate on occasion.”

So I did and then finished just in time to go pick up Frankie who jealously asked if it meant I couldn’t play for him. Imitating one of the ladies at dinner I said, “Pish posh, what a thing to say.”

He was immediately sunny again and once again I worried he was growing spoiled. I probably should have said something about his behavior, but I didn’t, and hindsight is 20/20. I’ll simply have to be more watchful from here on out. But, since Vit said he is going to be late, I think I am going to bed early. Tomorrow is a sea day and there’ll be time enough to catch up on things then.

 

[Kathy in FL]

World Cruise Day 220: Apr 8 – Cruise the Arabian Sea

I should have knocked on wood when I made my prediction about being able to catch up today. About the only thing I’ve done is answer correspondence and try and keep Frankie focused on his lessons. I keep reminding him that if we put our nose to the grindstone, he can finish the academic year at the close of April but all that seems to do is make him more distracted. I know part of it is the fact that his birthday is approaching on the 10th. Madam has something planned but she’s keeping mum … no pun intended.

It seems that everyone in the family has suddenly realized I will be home in less than a month and are trying to catch up or add something to the list of things to look for; all reasonable thank goodness. I suppose that it also shows they are happy to have the internet rationing gone. It is possible that the rationing will be reinstated but for now, with the case making its way through the courts, everyone is free to spend as much time as they can. Assuming they can work around the brown outs.

Some cities aren’t experiencing the utility interruptions at all. Urban areas seem to be holding up the best. Rural electrical co-ops are suffering the worst. Hence why Pembroke has it so bad. It is already warming up and people are getting “grouchy” about not being able to run their ACs like they reside in the arctic. And getting low on gas is a problem if all the local gas stations have lost power, no matter how temporarily. The grocery stores are also having fits and their freezer sections are being kept at very low stock. They want to run their back up power sources, unfortunately the cost and availability of fuel, particularly diesel, is just as much of a problem as it started out being a couple of months back.

Angelia: “Thank goodness I got all of the frozen stuff taken care of first. At least that is one disaster we managed to avoid.”

Me: “Did the extra dehydrators help?”

Angelia: “You have no idea. And still are helping. I’m sorry I haven’t gotten more canned but at least there is a good supply of dried stuff for you.”

Me: “Was Tal able to reopen the well?”

Angelia: “Yes, and thankful I am. We’ve had to cart water around to the family more than once. It smells terrible … gah, you remember … but it is better than nothing.”

Me: “Much better than nothing so no one better complain. And not to nag, but did you get the bleach and peroxide?”

Angelia: “The bleach yes. Derrick got the peroxide for you. Why so much?”

Me: “The bleach I’ll save for drinking water and the peroxide I can use on the whites with a spray bottle.”

Angelia: “And the CLR?”

Me: “That’s what Momma had me use to keep the rust and lime under control. Or maybe if it is just lime I should go cheaper and get vinegar. Geez, I wish I was there. I keep thinking of things and … it’s driving me nuts. And I hate like sin that you have to wait for Charlie to give you the money to pay you back.”

Angelia: “We do a group buy so don’t worry about it.”

I heard directly from Dylan for the first time in a while; facetime was laggy but I took what I could get. He’d sent me notes through Vit but I guess he was having to multipurpose his ‘net time as well despite his job.

“Hey Squirt.”

“Love you too Brat. To what do I owe this honor?”

“Haha Kiddo. So, you’ll be home soon?”

“That’s the plan,” I responded. “Do you have anything else we need to do for Vit’s entry?”

“Look Veta … things are growing … serious.”

Cautiously I asked, “What things? And what kind of serious?”

Bluntly he said, “World events. That thing with Russia and China still has a lot of people on edge. What’s it like there?”

“There here on the ship? Or there in the ports we are at?”

“Both.”

I sighed. “On the ship it is like … I don’t know … people have postponed thinking about it, or just moved passed it. I don’t even get the sense from my employer that she is thinking about it. But she hasn’t stayed in business all these years because she is a stupid woman. I wouldn’t want to go against her in any kind of game. On the other hand, she’s on vacation right now so I don’t know how on top of things she is … but I suspect she is just because she seems the type.”

“Trust me, she is,” he said making me wonder just how he knew that. “And Vit says that you aren’t in the stream of things very much, mostly stay in at night and tend to the boy.”

I gave a mental shrug. “I hear people talking on the excursions … and some of them seem pretty desperate to be distracted from real life. On the other hand, if you want indepth ask Vit as he gets around in company more than I do and is taken seriously.”

“Er …”

“Don’t sweat it. This is my job. Why are you asking?”

“Follow up from a different angle.”

“Are the angles sharp or obtuse?”

“No teacher jokes right now, my brain can’t handle them,” he said and I could hear him trying to find the old and worn out joke funny for my sake. Getting back to business he said, “Seriously, things are … stressed … in some departments so you and Vit need to keep this in mind. Stay flexible. Don’t expend all of your energy. Don’t spend all of your cash but don’t keep a lot of currencies on hand either. Keep all those lessons Devin gave you ready to be used.”

“Dylan?”

“The US$ is getting overheated and the Euro is sliding. The pound sterling is getting about as hot as the US$ so you might want to try and pick up some now before the exchange rate gets unfavorable. Charlie is about to blow a gasket trying to unload some of the Euros he has.”

“Why would Charlie need Euros?” I asked, more than a little confused.

“He was playing the exchange rate game. I don’t know why he bothered when it is only pennies on the dollar and now he is getting caught up in the craziness of things getting turned on their heads.” Charlie and Dylan’s lines of work sometimes came in conflict … or should I say their lines of interest. “Just stay …”

“Don’t you dare say frosty. That is so … grrr.”

He laughed and with a crackle he disconnected leaving me shaking my head at big brothers and him as a big brother in particular.

When I broached the subject with Vit he said Charlie had already given him a heads up and that was just one reason why he was careful to not hold too much of the gambling cash for too long. Some he let the other players win back just to salve their pride, but he did it in a way that they didn’t realize how much he’d won off of them in the grand scheme of things. I hope he is careful, that sounds like a deep game to me.

The other thing I asked him was something that has started to bother me after thinking about what Dylan had said.

“Why does everything look so normal where we are? None of the ports look like they are hurting the way I hear they are hurting at home?”

He had just come in after dropping Nicholas at his cabin. The sports game they had been watching ended early and nothing else thrilled them, so they decided to return to the cabins early. “In many places we are now going there has always been large numbers of poor. The kind of things your family talks of are really luxuries in the rest of the world. Shortages are starting to filter through, but are not as shocking to people who have lived with such shortages their entire lives … and the lives of their family before them.”

“You mean you?”

He shrugged as he tugged off his shirt. “In part. But I have grown spoiled. Not irredeemably so, but I refuse to feel guilty for enjoying what this job has given us. We work every day. We have not had a full 24-hr period off from work since we both began. Even if we have most of a day without the responsibilities of our charges, we still see to them at night … or the reverse and make sure they are up and at breakfast. And if they are not in our care, there is paperwork and planning. So we are earning our income.”

He sounded a little fierce like maybe he’d struggled to convince himself. “I know we are. And no, I’m not against some of the luxuries we’ve been exposed to. They are all part of the job.”

“Good,” he said succinctly before folding his frame into a chair and putting his feet up. “There will come a time when this all ends, as it must. And that time comes soon. We must continue to enjoy it if nothing else, for the memories. Has what Dylan said really worried you so much Kokhana?”

“Not worried so much as … confused me. I’m not stupid.” He growled as he didn’t like me saying it that way but I shrugged. “Don’t get cranky Vit. I just know that I know enough but that there are some things I don’t know. But I would have thought the US was more insulated from these kinds of economic events. I just don’t get it.”

“I will tell you what I think, but please do not be upset.”

“You’re allowed to have an opinion Vit. You don’t have to be in lock step with whatever my brothers think.”

He nodded. “I know. But … I wish you to know I am not being unkind when I say this. Or ungrateful.”

“Don’t worry about that, just talk to me and help me understand this.”

He cleared his throat and then said, “Your family is spoiled.” I blinked but managed to keep my mouth closed while he explained further. “You have said you were not raised with privilege … and that some of your siblings came from poor circumstances. You have said your parents raised you to be frugal and yes, I’ve seen the evidence. But … your family is still spoiled. Do you not remember how shocked they all were at the idea of using second hand? Did you not have to convince Charlie of the advantages of shopping that way?”

“Yyyyes. I suppose. But it didn’t take much convincing.”

“Nii, it did not. I did not say your family was bad spoiled. But they have grown up … or at least grown now … to have expectations. But Charlies says … he used the term usual suspects … are still adjusting and continue to say that things will get better tomorrow.”

Knowing a few of my siblings I nodded. While all are good people, some like their blinders better than just fine.

“And it is not just your family. I would say many people in the US are spoiled in that way, just at different levels. Even immigrants that came from harsh locations. Do you know what Charlie said last time we spoke?”

I rolled my eyes. “No. But whatever it is is unlikely to surprise me.”

“He works with a man that has rental property that he rents out to … undocumented immigrants. This man said that these people can walk hundreds of miles, across dessert, through dangerous areas, with little food and water. Risk life and limb crossing the border. Do it to their children and expect them not to complain along the way. But should their air conditioner go out for even an hour they act as if they are dying of heat stroke and make unreasonable demands and act like it is an illegal act for such repairs to require more than a day to repair.”

“Must be Mr. Hernandez. He used to always go on about how his family came here legally back in the 20s, survived the Great Depression, and became Americans, not some ‘hyphenated citizen’ like the people coming in now.”

“I do not know who it is, but I understand the idea he is expressing. It is not that people cannot survive realities when life happens, it is they no longer think they should have to. But Kokhana, change is coming. Whether it is temporary who knows, but your family … and those other people … need to prepare by changing their mindset now every bit as much as they need to prepare their empty cabinets and fuel containers.”

It was a concept I wasn’t unfamiliar with. Momma really was into disaster preparedness at one point. But the way Vit expressed it, as someone that had lived with it and through it, gave the thoughts a different weight. It wasn’t just hypothetical to him, but a reality that he had lived most of his life in.

We spent the rest of the evening going over the remaining itinerary and our lists … and expending a little energy on each other … but it is time to put things away and get some sleep. The next five days may be all sea days, but I will probably fall into bed exhausted each night from keeping Frankie from climbing the walls.

 

[Kathy in FL]

World Cruise Day 221 - 225: Apr 9 thru Apr 13 – Cruise the Red Sea

As Vit and I suspected, the new wore off after the first day and it was a challenge to keep the two brothers from going bonkers. One or two sea days in a row is tolerable, more than that they get the fidgets. Six days in a row? There were a few moments that we all came close to acting like we were losing our screws. Madam did not help when she had Frankie all day on his birthday and spoiled him beyond rotten. His primary gift was a pair of binoculars that also took digital pictures that could be loaded directly onto a computer or tablet. They also had low-light and night vision settings. I thought he was going to hyperventilate when he unwrapped them and figured out what they were.

There was also an excessive amount of sugar involved throughout the day. And red dye. Good heavens. Obviously Madam did not learn the first time around when she did the same thing at San Diego Zoo. And she booked a dinner in one of the specialty dining rooms … that ended in more dessert than was seemly after the earlier truck loads of sugar. He crashed and burned finally in Madam’s cabin … yet another treat … and I heard from Miss Haywood that Madam did as well shortly afterwards. Serves her right. The next day Frankie acted like he was recovering from a three-day drunk and the resulting hangover was unpleasant for everyone. Mostly I kept him in the pool so he could express his fishy side. That’s when he wasn’t driving me to distraction with those blasted binoculars.

I suppose it is obvious that I’m feeling a little claustrophobic myself. And perhaps a little anxious for several different reasons. There are now only twenty days until the end of the cruise. It has felt such a long time coming. I am eager for Vit and I to start the next adventure in our lives. At the same time there is a lot of unknowns out there, not the least of them being if I still have a career to chase. There was a special referendum on the virtual school pogram, and contrary what many in the news thought would happen, it passed by a huge margin. Starting the next school year, the virtual school program will be rolling out in all public schools in the state. In three years all classes will be by video and computer. There will be minimum requirements … meaning that certain benchmarks must be met by certain days … but there will also be the opportunity for students to advance at their own pace so long as they don’t fall behind the minimum mandatories. The number of credits a student can earn per grade will no longer be dependent on teacher availability and class space, but on the motivation of the student.

Now the flip side to this is that the state expanded their restrictions for those sixteen years and under to those that are even older. For years it was that you could not get a driving permit and/or permanent driving license unless you were in school full time until you were eighteen and/or had earned your high school diploma or GED. Now they’ve increased that to twenty years of age. You must be in school or some type of job training full time, and with passing marks, until you are twenty to qualify for an unrestricted driving license. Anyone caught driving with a restricted license without a fully licensed driver twenty-five years of age or older in the car with them will lose the opportunity to have a driver’s license until age twenty-five. Even my nieces and nephews are squawking long and loud about that one and most of them don’t drive due to age, inclination, or their parents’ refusal to pay for insurance and gas. Catch-22 there; you need insurance to drive, you need a job to pay for insurance, but you have to be in school in order to drive and if you are in school you don’t have a lot of time to work. That’s not the only huge change for younger people.

They’ve dropped the drinking and smoking age back down to eighteen but doubled (and sometimes tripled) the fines. Anyone caught delivering alcohol or cigarettes (or marijuana) to anyone under the age of eighteen is looking at automatic felonies with jail time and really huge fines as well. Parents are now financially and legally responsible for their children living at home, regardless of age … this includes adult children. Charlie said that the courthouse in Jacksonville is being inundated with evictions for adult children who won’t get out of their parents’ homes. And, if a student is marked truant, they will be removed from the home and put in those bootcamps they built a couple of years back to deal with the children of illegal immigrants as well as gang violence in the school system.

Even if I can find a job, I’m not sure I want to try and teach in that environment. Derrick mentioned starting a private school for the family’s children living on Pembroke Lane, and I’m not denying that it isn’t an intreaguing idea, but getting private school status may be an insurmountable obstacle. And the family may not want to come up with the funds to do it. For one, I am not working for free. But that’s not a conversation I can have right now. Vit and I haven’t even set foot in Pembroke yet.

I’ve worked off some of my personal fidgets with yoga, krav maga practice, and an hour of violin every day. Not a perfect solution but it certainly utilized the resources at hand. Vit and I are also getting really serious about packing down the two trunks … and keeping it to two trunks and our personal luggage. That means from here on out we need to really think if we can fill a need or if we are only buying wants. The first trunk is completely packed, locked, and strapped. The second trunk is organized but there’s still room for additional purchases, or to move clothes from the luggage to the trunk to make sure everything packs very tightly.

Got an email from Charlie and finally some good news from home.

Hey Short Stuff. Hurricane supplies are all laid in. May expand on that but have other irons in the fire right now so we’ll have to see. The house passed all the appropriate inspections, so everything is a go for you and Vit to move in as soon as you get home. Make sure you put the company’s address on all shipping labels so I can pick them up freight at the airport when they come in. Angie says she’ll hold onto them for you until you can pick them up … that’s assuming you don’t arrive before they do which is a possibility if they get hung up in customs. Make sure you fill out the paperwork properly and text me a picture of the forms. Gotta run. Miss you like crazy Kid and glad you’ll be home soon.

So it looks like everything is moving along. I had to read between the lines to understand the real meaning of what Charlie meant. “Hurricane supplies” is what the family called Momma’s survival supplies so I’m going to go with that. “Appropriate inspections” must mean that Tal has looked everything over and it was all just cosmetic damage and the structural integrity of Pembroke House is good. I hope it also means that all the construction mess up to that point has been cleaned up. That’s not the first thing I want to do after being gone over two hundred and fifty days. I’m already going to have to figure out how to keep the family’s noses out of my business. Vit and I are NOT being separated just for their propriety’s sake.

Vit is still working on something deep but he says that his project is also winding up and for me not to worry about it. What is the first thing a woman is going to do when a man says that? Worry about it of course. Though I’m trying not to.

I’m also a little worried by Fort Knox … what I’ve mentally termed our cabin safe. Dylan says he has it covered and that he and Vit have a plan. More spy crap that drives me crazy.

To get my mind off of the worrisome stuff here’s a fun fact: The Red Sea – what we’ve been sailing on for the last five days – is one of four seas named in English after a color term: the Red Sea, the Black Sea, the White Sea, and the Yellow Sea. Madam was in stitches when Frankie answered that in a trivia competition after the question has stumped most of the adults in the room.

While Frankie and I researched the Red Sea during one of our lessons, we read where one oceanographer said the Red Sea is more like a mini-ocean because it has many of the features found in the big oceans. It is a vital trading route. It has year-round sunshine. The world’s fastest fish – the sailfish – lives in the Sea. It has colorful reefs. It has a ton of lost shipwrecks, some from antiquity. And it suffers from the scourge of piracy.

In the Red Sea the water evaporates at one of the highest rates in the world. This same oceanographer compared it to a bathtub in a steam room … it needs lots of replenishing to keep it from drying out. And it gets it from the Monsoon rains as well as other water sources like the Gulf of Aden. Because of all of the unusual water cycle components, the Red Sea is extremely salty and has very odd areas of circulation and some of them only operate in one season of the year.

And that’s my lesson for the day. There is a grumpy Cossack wanting to know when I am coming to bed, he wants to show me some appreciation. Yeah, I’m all over that.