Veg So I gots these Squash...

[Satanta]

Bught one at the local Grocery a few months ago-don't even know what they are, just wanted to see if they were viable to grow and add seeds to my Survival Garden.

I've picked two-bout the size of soccer balls or slightly smaller then add on the Necks.

Five still on vine-one about ready to pick. Hp[e for more before move. Might get some planted during move or within a day or two of getting things there.

Anyhoo, I know they are a hard-skinned Winter Squash, being mid/early Summer not sure how to store or how long they can last in their Natural form.

 

[summerthyme]

First, they need to be mature. For winter squash or pumpkins, usually the stem starts to dry a bit, but the main thing is the skin needs to be hard enough you can't puncture it with a thumbnail.

Once ripe, "pick" them by cutting them free of the vine with pruning shears or a sturdy knife. Put them someplace warm and dry and airy for a week to ten days to t wo weeks, to harden the rind and condition it for storage. Wipe it down with a weak bleach solution, then store someplace as cool as you can find with the lowest humidity possible (I know you're in humidity central!) Old timers used to store them under the bed in an unheated bedroom. Don't let them freeze!

Optimum conditions for storage is 50 degrees and 50% humidity or less. Do the best you can.

Summerthyme

 

[Martinhouse]

Summerthyme, I've read that it's a good idea to cut the stem of a pumpkin as long as possible, to help it store better. If this is true, wouldn't it apply to any winter squash?

 

[summerthyme]

Summerthyme, I've read that it's a good idea to cut the stem of a pumpkin as long as possible, to help it store better. If this is true, wouldn't it apply to any winter squash?

Yep... it really doesn't matter how long of a stem you leave, but it's vital to leave the stem attached. If it breaks free of the fruit, it's storage life will be very short.. needs to be used up quickly.

Summerthyme

 

[Satanta]

First, they need to be mature. For winter squash or pumpkins, usually the stem starts to dry a bit, but the main thing is the skin needs to be hard enough you can't puncture it with a thumbnail.

Once ripe, "pick" them by cutting them free of the vine with pruning shears or a sturdy knife. Put them someplace warm and dry and airy for a week to ten days to t wo weeks, to harden the rind and condition it for storage. Wipe it down with a weak bleach solution, then store someplace as cool as you can find with the lowest humidity possible (I know you're in humidity central!) Old timers used to store them under the bed in an unheated bedroom. Don't let them freeze!

Optimum conditions for storage is 50 degrees and 50% humidity or less. Do the best you can.

Summerthyme

I have learned about the skins and the stalk. Fingernail to the skin is still new and I have to be careful otherwise I'd shove my whole finger thru the squash. Need to determine how to store-not really wanting to freeze them or can them.

Oh, forgot the pic:

 

[etdeb]

I have learned about the skins and the stalk. Fingernail to the skin is still new and I have to be careful otherwise I'd shove my whole finger thru the squash. Need to determine how to store-not really wanting to freeze them or can them.

Oh, forgot the pic:

View attachment 351066

CUSHAW

 

[West]

Need to ask Martha....

What Is Cushaw Squash? Here's What You Need to Know About This Hefty Relative of the Butternut and Acorn

Get to know cushaw squash, a large winter squash that has a rounded bottom and long neck and ranges in color from frosted green-and-white bands to orange tops and green bottoms. Also how to prep and cook it.

www.marthastewart.com

I want to grow some of them!

Save some seeds for me Sat, I'll trade you some organic seeds, or walking onions, etc..

 

[coloradohermit]

Pretty squash!

 

[Satanta]

Need to ask Martha....

What Is Cushaw Squash? Here's What You Need to Know About This Hefty Relative of the Butternut and Acorn

Get to know cushaw squash, a large winter squash that has a rounded bottom and long neck and ranges in color from frosted green-and-white bands to orange tops and green bottoms. Also how to prep and cook it.

www.marthastewart.com

I want to grow some of them!

Save some seeds for me Sat, I'll trade you some organic seeds, or walking onions, etc..

Sure will. You might need to remind me to send some around end of August. We will be moved by then and I will have them dried for next year. I thought they were called

Kershaw?

Might actually be seds I saved from Farmers Market buys a couple of years ago.

 

[Satanta]

I use Vertical for my squashes, cukes and any vining plant. Keeps them off the ground and away from bugs and rot. I wrap 2 or 3" of the lower stem where they come out of the ground in foil to prevent Squash Borrers.

Been using s7ven dust on the leaves but looking at something less toxic in case wildlife gets at them plus don't want to harm my Bee pals.

Might get Bee Hives at the new place.

 

[bracketquant]

I never do the fingernail test. It causes a bruise, which means there goes any long term storage. I pick when the stem is dry, leaving three inches attached.

 

[Satanta]

I never do the fingernail test. It causes a bruise, which means there goes any long term storage. I pick when the stem is dry, leaving three inches attached.

I can see that. My concern is that the plant can only grow and support X amount of fruit-once one gets a couple or three fully matured ones it might stop it from growing more.

 

[summerthyme]

I can see that. My concern is that the plant can only grow and support X amount of fruit-once one gets a couple or three fully matured ones it might stop it from growing more.

Well, yes, that's how they work. If you want squash that will store, you must let them ripen on the plant... which in the case of Cushaws means 4 months- 120 days from sowing.

If you want "cut and come again" squash, you've got to plant summer squash. Winter squash are a once and done deal.

Summerthyme

 

[Satanta]

Well, yes, that's how they work. If you want squash that will store, you must let them ripen on the plant... which in the case of Cushaws means 4 months- 120 days from sowing.

If you want "cut and come again" squash, you've got to plant summer squash. Winter squash are a once and done deal.

Summerthyme

See? Let that be a Lesson to you.

 

[mecoastie]

You may be able to use them like a summer squash if they are still young and tender.

 

[summerthyme]

Sat, what I'd do is let the plants set 2-3 fruit, then remove the rest young (they apparently CAN be eaten like summer squash) or prune the vine tips to discourage more reproduction. The plants will then concentrate their energy on growing those fruits (which should be 25-30# each!) and ripening them.

Then put off harvesting until the last possible minute, or see if you can get the buyer to give you permission to harvest at the right time. Prematurely harvested squash lack sweetness and flavor, as well as the ability to be stored.

Summerthyme

 

[bracketquant]

I can see that. My concern is that the plant can only grow and support X amount of fruit-once one gets a couple or three fully matured ones it might stop it from growing more.

I wouldn't be concerned. While I haven't grown cushaw types (curcubita mixta), I've grown the others, c. pepo, c. maxima, and c. moschata. The larger squash usually put out 2 to 3 per plant, and the smaller ones 3 to 4. The plant will then put most of its energy into producing seed.

 

[Satanta]

Sat, what I'd do is let the plants set 2-3 fruit, then remove the rest young (they apparently CAN be eaten like summer squash) or prune the vine tips to discourage more reproduction. The plants will then concentrate their energy on growing those fruits (which should be 25-30# each!) and ripening them.

Then put off harvesting until the last possible minute, or see if you can get the buyer to give you permission to harvest at the right time. Prematurely harvested squash lack sweetness and flavor, as well as the ability to be stored.

Summerthyme

The buyer is going to come in and flatten or dumpster anything left behind. My raised beds are going with me so around the 18th or maybe the 20th of August they will not b here.

If things go right by the 26th those beds will be reassembled, filled and short season and Winter stuff will go in.

We've been given two months Move Out time and we have not been given a Closing for this property but I've heard Aug1. That would give us thru October but that I extra gas and wear on the Jeep going back and forth. I will take my losses and keep going.

Boton song "Don't look Back".

I am pre=positioning everything except the beds them selves just outside the gates on each side of this property-flagstones, castle wall bricks [[I'd leave those ugly things but FL wants them]], bagged compost, bagged soil and so forth.

Some will say leave it behind and get New-in my mind we are on borrowed time. I cannot depend on finding New with the Economy going to hell, it's 45 minutes. I can rent a trailer for $50, haul it oer for $50. I cannot buy new Stone, soil and so forth for $50, moe like $300 just for the garden soil so, unless someone wants to order me a load I'm doing it the hard way I suppose.

Need more Cattle Panels-they were around $12 three months ago now they are running closer to $30.

Pallet of Flagstone is around $250-unloaded some for a friend and asked.

I will take donations otherwise it's Grunts, Sweat and Cussing.