Plugged catalytic converter on 1996 Dodge Ram

[Dennis Olson]

I have a 1996 Dodge Ram PU truck (1500), which has a nearly plugged catalytic converter. I can't afford a new one right now. Can I just remove the old one and replace it with a length of flex pipe for awhile? Are there any sensors that I'd need to alter or remove? Will removing the catalyst make the engine run improperly? And why won't mechanics do this work for me, except in "hush hush" mode?

EDIT: Is there a source for a cheap (about $100) new or rebuilt catalyst?

 

[rryan]

My friend I mentioned above with the dodge pick up--same thing.

It is probably illegal but reove or cut off the coverter, stand it on end, and take a large pointy peice of metal and a hammer and beat the guts out of it and re-install.

It will NOT pass an emissions inspection/test with this done but it will buy you time.

 

[NoPhobos]

Can I just remove the old one and replace it with a length of flex pipe for awhile?

Yes, but you will get lotsa noise and heat at this location.

Are there any sensors that I'd need to alter or remove?Will removing the catalyst make the engine run improperly?

Some cars have a downstream O2 sensor that may or may not alter the fuel/air ratios on your engine. Some only cause a check engine light to come on, some alter the ratio. Look for a screw-in type sensor with wires on the pipe after the converter.

And why won't mechanics do this work for me, except in "hush hush" mode?

It is illegal for them to do; OK for you unless you have emissions testing. They will not pass the car or give you a waiver unless the converter is in place.

EDIT: Is there a source for a cheap (about $100) new or rebuilt catalyst?

The platinum catalyst is the expensive part. I have not seen them cheap, ever.

 

[Green Co.]

Had the same problem on a Chevy once. Did as rryan suggested, but I only removed the exhaust pipe from the rear of the converter, (left converter on vehicle) used a hammer & piece of 1/2" galv pipe to create a straight thru hole. Not as hard as you would think.

Leave the exhaust pipe off until you start the engine & blow all the crud from the converter.

Environazis will hate you

 

[Ultrconservative]

I've fixed many convertors with a 3 foot peice of 1/2 galvanized pipe and a 3 pound hammer

That truck has an O2 sensor behind the convertor, but it's already feeding incorrect info to the computer, you don't stand to lose much by "modifying" the convertor.

BTW, neighbors kid ran into the same problem with the same model truck, he tried to fix it by changing out sensors (the olde shotgun repair approach). Ended up he had to tow it to the dealship and have all the new sensors recalibrated. Cost him well over a grand to be able to drive it down the road again.

Makes me thankfull every time I get into my 20 year old truck

 

[Pathfinder]

EDIT: Is there a source for a cheap (about $100) new or rebuilt catalyst?

Do you have a discount muffler place near ya?

We have one here that they get "generics" for about 125$?

 

[Hamilton Felix]

FWIW, I just had a 1987 Subaru that was totally without power. Floor it in neutral, and it went "flat" at 3,500 rpm. Converter is a "Y" type, and it was blocked with massive carbon accumulation. After my Mechanic took it out and "rattled" it heavily with his air hammer, it should be clear for a few years to come.

 

[Rusty Shackelford]

I did my Jeep......

I cut the pipe right behind the converter.Got a lenth of pipe and beat the stuffing out of it,to break up the ceramic shell.

I then used a shop vac to suck the remains out.Be sure to drive it a few miles to blow the smaller particles out(this was fun)just do it in an out of the way place.

I drove it to the muffler shop,with muffler in hand.The guy never noticed it had no guts in it!The jeep gained about 5 hp,I then opened up the air intake alot,another 5 hp.Got no problems at all,and it will FLY.