…… Hot Water Heater Maintenance

kyrsyan

Has No Life - Lives on TB
Okay, at the moment my hot water heater is actually easily accessible. So I have a few questions for anyone that works with them.
Background, 50 gallon electric, about 5 years old. Not giving me any problems and don't want it to give me any problems.
Oops, may be older than I thought but I didn't think it had been that long ago. GE Model # 40M06AAG Manufactured 8/2011.

My thought was to permanently attach a short hose so that I could drain it whenever. There is a short hose, and a wall hole available. This would allow me to easily do a yearly flush. I know to throw the breaker to turn it off. I know not to turn the breaker back on until I am sure the unit is full again. Although, since water to it is not being shut off at any point, that shouldn't be a problem.

1) Why would anyone with a brain risk getting scalded, or having a hose melt, by doing this before waiting an hour or two for the water to cool? Or running the hot water out at a sink or tub before starting the flush? Is there an urgent need to do the flush while the water is hot?

2) Probably should have been 1, but does doing the flush actually help extend the life of the hot water heater? Seriously. Enough to make it worth the hassle?

3) I saw something about testing the pressure relief. Have to be done? Have to be done while water is hot?

4) How long to flush it? Is there a period of time? Or like a pool, flush until the water appears to be clear?

5) A friend mentioned a hot water heater repair kit. (Her hot water heater is giving her heck right now.) Is such a beast worth buying and having tucked back? This one was purchased because the old one stopped working, and because the old one was tiny. If I can keep this one alive longer, it's worth it.

Please let me know, if you do actually know. Because I only have about a week, maybe only a few days, before the access becomes difficult again. Well, access to the drain. Although I'd love to build a cabinet for the whole thing for safety.
 

hiwall

Has No Life - Lives on TB
Does not have to be hot to drain some water out to flush it. Water should be under pressure when doing it.
Same with testing the pressure relief valve. Does not have to be hot.
 

kyrsyan

Has No Life - Lives on TB

see page 14

I would also look at page 6 if you don’t have an expansion tank installed. The manual doesn’t say much past the install, but it definitely needs to be checked yearly. It needs to be not water logged and pressurized to match your houses static pressure.
No expansion tank. That is now required but wasn't when it was installed. Thank you the manual is helpful.

Note: It is not giving me any problems. I'm trying to prevent problems.
 

West

Senior
Yeah, don't shut water off while draining. Do turn cold water supply off and mostly on, as you flush it. By doing this you flush the water around in the tank and cause it to really flush around. But do still shut power off. Maybe drain halfway then flush again and again if need be.

On your next new water heater, install a full port drain valve in the bottom of the tank. And throw away the factory drain bib. Their garbage.
 

kyrsyan

Has No Life - Lives on TB
Yeah, don't shut water off while draining. Do turn cold water supply off and mostly on, as you flush it. By doing this you flush the water around in the tank and cause it to really flush around. But do still shut power off. Maybe drain halfway then flush again and again if need be.

On your next new water heater, install a full port drain valve in the bottom of the tank. And throw away the factory drain bib. Their garbage.
Yeah, not impressed with the factory drain bib. But hoping to avoid a new one for a long time yet.
 

West

Senior
Yeah, not impressed with the factory drain bib. But hoping to avoid a new one for a long time yet.

You can remove old bib, but it may be a PITA. Once on a plastic factory drain, it busted off inside. Had to use a hack saw blade slowly cut down thew threads on inside and pull pieces out with needle nose pliers. Like a surgical procedure.

If you do remove it. First install a short 3/4" brass nipple then a full port, threaded, brass ball valve, then the pipe thread to hose brass fitting.

Also keep a old wire coat hanger handy, if there is a lot of calcium like build up in the inside, it will block the drain, and you gotta poke it aside and in pieces with coat hanger, to get it out..
 
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kyrsyan

Has No Life - Lives on TB
You can remove old bib, but it may be a PITA. Once on a plastic factory drain, it busted off inside. Had to use a hack saw blade slowly cut down thew threads on inside and pull pieces out with needle nose pliers. Like a surgical procedure.

If you do remove it. First install a short 3/4" brass nipple then a full port, threaded, brass ball valve, then the pipe thread to hose brass fitting.

Also keep a old wire coat hanger handy, if there is a lot of calcium like build up in the inside, it will block the drain, and you gotta poke it aside and in pieces with coat hanger, to get it out..
In it's current position, replacing the factory bib would be a major pita. I will keep it in mind to occur before install on any new one.
And since we have hard water, I'm worried about that build up. But, we don't get a lot of build up from it in other areas. I don't know why. Just that we don't.
It actually only crossed my mind to take care of because my friend is having problems with hers. And I've never heard of a repair kit before. I thought that you had to replace the whole thing.
 

West

Senior
In it's current position, replacing the factory bib would be a major pita. I will keep it in mind to occur before install on any new one.
And since we have hard water, I'm worried about that build up. But, we don't get a lot of build up from it in other areas. I don't know why. Just that we don't.

All water heaters have a sacrificial anode rod. In areas with hard water, if you get 5-10 years out of it your doing good. But when they get eating up, they stop protecting the water heater from build up.

The best anodes are made from magnesium, the second best is zinc. The worst is aluminum.

The best storage type water heaters will have a zink and magnesium rods. But even them need replace every 5 years minimum.

Your on borrowed time. If you truly do have hard water.
 
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West

Senior
Also note. If you have the flexible type hot water heater hoses that connect the water heater to the stationary plumbing on the wall.

Those too should be replaced every 5 years.
 
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