Yes... the catalog is excellent... they have a map showing what types are appropriate for where you live, etc. Northerners want either long day or intermediate day varieties.
Summerthyme
Summerthyme
Misc/Chat Gardening for the Grand Solar Minimum
- Thread starter packyderms_wife
- Start date
Sherrynboo
Veteran Member
I just placed an order with Dixondale, got a case coming in on Thursday. Hopefully I can sell some bundles but if not, I have enough room for all of them. I have at least 10 bundles spoken for already. With all the rain in the extended forecast they should do very well!
Sherrynboo
Veteran Member
Onions like water and fertilizer. You need to start with some ammonium phosphate for good root development and a good nitrogen fertilizer as you go along for leaf development. The more leaves the bigger the onion!
AlaskaSue
North to the Future
Thanks for that...I grew onions in a new place last year and they just didn’t make very well at all. I’ll work on it this next season
On the other hand, my green beans and shell beans all did great!
packyderms_wife
Neither here nor there.
Did not know this, thank you!
Also, because the larger the plant, the larger the bulb (within the genetic limitations of the variety.. if you want REALLY huge, fairly sweet onions, plant Ailsa Craig... but they're not keepers), the EARLIER you plant them (in the north, especially) the larger the bulbs you'll get.
Two years ago, we had a great onion year. I got them planted April 20th, and managed to keep two long rows well weeded... plus, we added all the chicken pen bedding from the previous winter into the soil before planting.
Out of 22 bunches of plants, I got 17 bushels. (yes, really!) The Copras, which are usually a decent, medium sized bulb, were GIGANTIC... I weighed several that were 20-22 ounces each!
Last year, they weren't nearly as large, but we certainly have plenty for the year.
Just be careful when fertilizing with any high- nitrogen fertilizer that you don't get it directly on the plants.. you can burn them, and it can contribute to rot problems.
Summerthyme
We've been having "springlike" weather pretty much since a bit before Christmas- melted the 2 feet of snow we had then, and it's been mud season ever since. We're looking at a drastic change starting tonight, though... winds, snow, single digit temps. I hope it gets cold and stays that way for 3 months!
Summerthyme
Sherrynboo
Veteran Member
We have been in the 70's all week but got a front coming in with more seasonable weather. Glad to see it as I was afraid my blueberries and kiwi would begin to bud out.
packyderms_wife
Neither here nor there.
Bumping!
packyderms_wife
Neither here nor there.
Agreed! We don’t have a root cellar but I learned how to optimize my basement using that book.
packyderms_wife
Neither here nor there.
A root cellar is one of the things on my "want" list.
Sacajawea
Has No Life - Lives on TB
Well, here it is late May. And I'm still trying to get potatos in the ground. Finally got my plow; so the big bed has been plowed (and de-rocked) 4 times from each direction. Then I disc'd about as many times. It was wet - but I tried to let it dry out as much as possible before working with the implements. I'm now hand digging... and wouldn't you know it? I'm not as strong & durable as I was 20 years ago. LOLOLOL.
But I knew what I was getting into breaking sod this year. And those implements saved me a lot of time this year. Even though I'm still pulling up rocks at this stage.
Seedlings are up; but leggy. The overcast and cool temps have been my worst issue so far. Had frost a week or so ago too.
If you're going to try growing under cover - starting reading up on the various color frequencies of grow lights. (The pot growers have this down to a science - but each vegetable has slightly different requirements on color & timing.) This is very important for getting a harvest in GSM conditions.
Also - 10, 15 years of observations of the seasons have convinced me that that there is decided trend to shifting away from the calendar planting dates in the various zones that are published everywhere. Within that there have been crazy fluctuations - one year, right from early spring to full on summer; the next summer doesn't arrive until July. But overall - my harvest have shifted to Sept/Oct - and even into November & early Dec.
The long-term weather forecasts haven't been any more useful to me than the Almanac. A weather station on site is my next foray into trying to predict conditions.
But I knew what I was getting into breaking sod this year. And those implements saved me a lot of time this year. Even though I'm still pulling up rocks at this stage.
Seedlings are up; but leggy. The overcast and cool temps have been my worst issue so far. Had frost a week or so ago too.
If you're going to try growing under cover - starting reading up on the various color frequencies of grow lights. (The pot growers have this down to a science - but each vegetable has slightly different requirements on color & timing.) This is very important for getting a harvest in GSM conditions.
Also - 10, 15 years of observations of the seasons have convinced me that that there is decided trend to shifting away from the calendar planting dates in the various zones that are published everywhere. Within that there have been crazy fluctuations - one year, right from early spring to full on summer; the next summer doesn't arrive until July. But overall - my harvest have shifted to Sept/Oct - and even into November & early Dec.
The long-term weather forecasts haven't been any more useful to me than the Almanac. A weather station on site is my next foray into trying to predict conditions.
We're in the same boat, Sacajawea... our ground has been tilled up (but will need it again... thank God for a tractor mounted rototiller... running the Troybilt over more than an acre of garden is getting harder all the time!) but the only thing planted so far are the onion plants and some early herbs. Carrots and beets will be going in the raised beds today, if the weather cooperates.
We've been doing more of our weather forecasting for decades now... even "local" forecasts are awfully hit and miss... the proximity of Lake Erie (about 50 miles northwest) means we get lots of "lake effect" snows which is acknowledged- but also "lake effect" rain... which really raises hell with trying to make dry hay in the summer.
I pay much more attention to the stages of buds and leaves of bushes and trees than I do the calendar. The lilac bush is at least 2 weeks behind "average" and close to a month behind several Springs in the early 2000's. It is now saying that we can plant corn.
We have several thousand Spring bulbs planted in our lawns, and the bloom times are quite helpful in determining where we are in the Spring season. When the early species crocuses are blooming, it's starting time (and time to start seeds indoors). Once the bigger, hybrid crocuses and early daffodils bloom, it's time to start the earliest, cold tolerant garden stuff... peas, lettuce, some early carrots and beets.
Once the tulips and late daffodils bloom, the soil is warm enough to plant everything else.
Of course, we always have to be ready to deal with a late frost or snow (this wasn't the first May we've seen snow... Mothers Day several years ago, we had a FOOT of snow... daffodils were in full bloom and the cows had been on pasture for almost 10 days when it hit!)
But I have to really get planting this week... it's time!
Summerthyme
We've been doing more of our weather forecasting for decades now... even "local" forecasts are awfully hit and miss... the proximity of Lake Erie (about 50 miles northwest) means we get lots of "lake effect" snows which is acknowledged- but also "lake effect" rain... which really raises hell with trying to make dry hay in the summer.
I pay much more attention to the stages of buds and leaves of bushes and trees than I do the calendar. The lilac bush is at least 2 weeks behind "average" and close to a month behind several Springs in the early 2000's. It is now saying that we can plant corn.
We have several thousand Spring bulbs planted in our lawns, and the bloom times are quite helpful in determining where we are in the Spring season. When the early species crocuses are blooming, it's starting time (and time to start seeds indoors). Once the bigger, hybrid crocuses and early daffodils bloom, it's time to start the earliest, cold tolerant garden stuff... peas, lettuce, some early carrots and beets.
Once the tulips and late daffodils bloom, the soil is warm enough to plant everything else.
Of course, we always have to be ready to deal with a late frost or snow (this wasn't the first May we've seen snow... Mothers Day several years ago, we had a FOOT of snow... daffodils were in full bloom and the cows had been on pasture for almost 10 days when it hit!)
But I have to really get planting this week... it's time!
Summerthyme
lonestar09
Veteran Member
I was just reading some of you in the north have just planted onions in April. When do you all harvest?
Long day varieties start making bulbs around July 1st and we harvest in mid-late August, or occasionally September. Of course, we start stealing sweet onions as early as we can!
Summerthyme
Summerthyme
packyderms_wife
Neither here nor there.
I planted them close together so based on how they look now I’ll start thinning for salads next week, the rest sometime this fall.
packyderms_wife
Neither here nor there.
I’ll be planting Tomatoes, peppers, squash, beans, and greens tomorrow this weather is insane and my raised beds are still wet from all of 5he rain we’ve had.
lonestar09
Veteran Member
Wow what a difference. The opposite here. Planting in September and harvesting feb/march
Yes, and we need completely different varieties/types of onions. Dixondale onions site explains the "long day vs short day" types in onions... it's vital if you want bulbs.
Summerthyme
20Gauge
TB Fanatic
I just learned about long and short about 2 years ago. It explained why I had so much trouble with bulbs.
Marseydoats
Veteran Member
It took my tomatoes 19 days to germinate. This is the craziest spring I have ever seen. We have had 2 hard frosts and several 90 degree days since I planted them. Not to mention about 10 inches of rain.
marsh
On TB every waking moment
Years ago, I bought four portable cold frames (aluminum frame, special sun treated plastic.) I use them to start seedlings every year. I got them at Charley's greenhouse supply, but they don't seem to have them anymore. Charley's Greenhouse & Garden Season Extenders He does have the row covers and frost blankets, but those are cheaper on Amazon.
I have been experimenting with thin plastic drop cloths. They seem to let enough sun in to keep tender plants going. I had the rodents attack one of my dwarf orange trees and I covered it and they stopped and it regrew its leaves. I am trying it over a pvc arch frame on one of my raised beds to see if kale and chard will grow in summer and if it will drop the temperature. I can use heavier plastic in winter.
Almost time to start planning the fall garden.
I have been experimenting with thin plastic drop cloths. They seem to let enough sun in to keep tender plants going. I had the rodents attack one of my dwarf orange trees and I covered it and they stopped and it regrew its leaves. I am trying it over a pvc arch frame on one of my raised beds to see if kale and chard will grow in summer and if it will drop the temperature. I can use heavier plastic in winter.
Almost time to start planning the fall garden.
alpha
Veteran Member
We planted them on the 15th of April and just harvested them this week. Excellent crop in the baseball size!! They were the onions from Dixondale that Summerthyme suggested.
packyderms_wife
Neither here nor there.
Thanks for the reminder I should go check both my garlic and my onions.
alpha
Veteran Member
We harvested our garlic at the same time. Two weeks ago made up quite a bit of garlic pesto from the scapes.
It appears now that the peaches are within a week of harvest time. As soon as the tree area smells like peaches, it will be the perfect time. Color is set in already. Shortly after that it will be pear pickin' time!
DW is currently preparing to plant Fall crops in the high tunnel. Thank God zucchini season has ended... pulled the plants when we harvested the potatoes. The only crop that hasn't (seemingly) done well is the corn. The stalks are about ten feet high and tasseling but there doesn't appear to be any cobs forming up.
It appears now that the peaches are within a week of harvest time. As soon as the tree area smells like peaches, it will be the perfect time. Color is set in already. Shortly after that it will be pear pickin' time!
DW is currently preparing to plant Fall crops in the high tunnel. Thank God zucchini season has ended... pulled the plants when we harvested the potatoes. The only crop that hasn't (seemingly) done well is the corn. The stalks are about ten feet high and tasseling but there doesn't appear to be any cobs forming up.
What variety did you grow? And when do you normally expect your first frost? It sounds like a very late grain variety... it should start forming ears soon. Unless you crowded it severely, if you've got a couple months til frost, it should still make it. The older varieties of grain corn need a lot more room than the current hybrids/GMO types. We used to plant 18,000 plants per acre for grain... they are now planting 30,000 per acre or more. For home patches, you want 30" rows and 8-12" spacing for good sized grain ears. Sweet corn will tolerate a lot less space- it's generally a much smaller plant.
Summerthyme
alpha
Veteran Member
Summerthyme, we plant Indian corn strictly for the cattle since it is always bug free and very large plants. If we get a really good crop we sell the ears at the farmers market too (since it is very colorful for decorations). I guess I'm impatient since it's only August and it really doesn't set up before mid to late September. Too many things to get caught up on before it gets any further ahead of us. I just spread 200 yards of gravel along the cattle access road. Last night it was burn five brush piles in this pasture and fix the fence while the cows are up in the other one.
What an adventure this farming thing is heh?
What an adventure this farming thing is heh?
packyderms_wife
Neither here nor there.
My garden was one hot mess before the storms on Monday, but after that derecho tore through here it's now beyond help. Thank heavens we've been buying canned goods as well as produce from local vegetable farmers and canned that up. I had a feeling, and am now glad I heeded that feeling. Now that the power is back on I have a strong desire to start canning down the deep freeze, I think this past week was a dry run for what's really coming down the pike.
alpha
Veteran Member
They were SO good last year that we ran out by December so this year we planted 300 onion sets! Every one of them succeeded to harvest early this month (when we realized we'd have to cover them with plastic to avoid the constant rain) after they had a chance to dry out. Excellent, healthy crop sure to keep through the Winter months.
Thank you again Summerthyme!!!!
Barry Natchitoches
Has No Life - Lives on TB
Freeholder,
After you get the area tilled, get some heavy black plastic or tarp and spread it over the freshly tilled ground. Weight it down with whatever you have so it will not run away with a heavy wind storm.
Then in the spring, remove the plastic from the soil. You will have still freshly tilled soil that will not takenmuch effort to plant, and the large sheet of plastic can be stored away for other projects, or to protect freshly tilled soil next year.
Just a thought...
alpha
Veteran Member
As I've been reading about upcoming food shortages and high food prices, I realized that despite this thread being about growing for the GSM, it is critical that folks maximize their ability to grow their own food. This thread by sierra don back in 2020 provides a great, inexpensive means to provide for longer season food production avoiding the problems of extreme weather conditions.
Finished Building Cattle Panel Greenhouse/High-tunnel
The bare essentials of survival are food, water and shelter...
Finished Building Cattle Panel Greenhouse/High-tunnel
The bare essentials of survival are food, water and shelter...
Martinhouse
Deceased
I made a cattle panel chicken house out of six cattle panels, T-posts, a few 2" x 4"s. and a bunch of used steel roofing panels. (For a greenhouse I'd not need the roofing, of course.) I used chickenwire and 2 x 4 welded wire fencing for the ends of the structure.
The sides started with horizontal cattle panels. This worked out well as there was no problem getting the opposite side perfectly square with the first side. I just laid the other panels on the ground against the first panel and thus got the second horizontal exactly where it needed to be by marking the spots for the T-posts at 12' from the first horizontal.
When I arched the four overhead panels, I overlapped the ends down about a foot onto the horizontal panels and wired them on really well and this made the attachment rigid. The resulting "roof" was nice and high but wanted to sag to one side or the other, so I set in five vertical 2 x 4s under the center of the structure and added a 2 x 4 upper plate and stapled the panels to it. This kept the arch of the roof from sagging to either side. It was easy to put up the fencing for both ends of the building and an extra 2 x 4 turned the frontmost center post into a door frame for an old homemade screen door I already had.
My nephew then wired on the used steel roofing and last, I tied down a large piece of old truck tarp over the whole thing as there were plenty of nail or screw holes in the used roofing.
Since cattle panels are more than four feet high, and I didn't overlap the overhead ones, I ended up with a nice 16" overhang at the front of the roof.
Last I put up several roost bars across one side of the back half of the whole thing and put the big five-hole steel nest box against the wall on the other side.
It wasn't long before I decided to pave the entire thing with 8" x 16" patio blocks. That kept the birds from digging big dust pits in the floor and kept varmints from digging their way in from the outside.
It is now just a big somewhat leaky storage area, as I've built different accommodations for the chickens, but I've never regretted putting all that time and effort into the thing. And now that I'm old and disabled, maybe it will finally become an actual greenhouse one of these days. Or months. Or years.
The sides started with horizontal cattle panels. This worked out well as there was no problem getting the opposite side perfectly square with the first side. I just laid the other panels on the ground against the first panel and thus got the second horizontal exactly where it needed to be by marking the spots for the T-posts at 12' from the first horizontal.
When I arched the four overhead panels, I overlapped the ends down about a foot onto the horizontal panels and wired them on really well and this made the attachment rigid. The resulting "roof" was nice and high but wanted to sag to one side or the other, so I set in five vertical 2 x 4s under the center of the structure and added a 2 x 4 upper plate and stapled the panels to it. This kept the arch of the roof from sagging to either side. It was easy to put up the fencing for both ends of the building and an extra 2 x 4 turned the frontmost center post into a door frame for an old homemade screen door I already had.
My nephew then wired on the used steel roofing and last, I tied down a large piece of old truck tarp over the whole thing as there were plenty of nail or screw holes in the used roofing.
Since cattle panels are more than four feet high, and I didn't overlap the overhead ones, I ended up with a nice 16" overhang at the front of the roof.
Last I put up several roost bars across one side of the back half of the whole thing and put the big five-hole steel nest box against the wall on the other side.
It wasn't long before I decided to pave the entire thing with 8" x 16" patio blocks. That kept the birds from digging big dust pits in the floor and kept varmints from digging their way in from the outside.
It is now just a big somewhat leaky storage area, as I've built different accommodations for the chickens, but I've never regretted putting all that time and effort into the thing. And now that I'm old and disabled, maybe it will finally become an actual greenhouse one of these days. Or months. Or years.
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alpha
Veteran Member
I apologize in advance for the use of a picture for this posting, but the need to upload all the individual pictures for the text persuaded me to cheat... This is my latest iteration of inexpensive and easy to construct high-tunnels.
Anyway, we plant from seed. Root crops do particularly well such as radish, carrots, turnip etc. We also plant specific lettuce varieties that can be harvested in the Winter. Please read up on Eliot Coleman's Winter Harvest Handbook... He lives in Maine and harvests from his high tunnels all Winter. It is truly inspirational.
The materials source list (less a few hardware items):
T-Posts
Cattle Panels
Greenhouse Film
Edited to add the old abandoned garden hose split full length and taped along the edges of the end openings of the cattle panel to avoid tearing the film covering. The other options of course would be to use water noodles or the rubber water pipe insulation tubes.
Anyway, we plant from seed. Root crops do particularly well such as radish, carrots, turnip etc. We also plant specific lettuce varieties that can be harvested in the Winter. Please read up on Eliot Coleman's Winter Harvest Handbook... He lives in Maine and harvests from his high tunnels all Winter. It is truly inspirational.
The materials source list (less a few hardware items):
T-Posts
Cattle Panels
Greenhouse Film
Edited to add the old abandoned garden hose split full length and taped along the edges of the end openings of the cattle panel to avoid tearing the film covering. The other options of course would be to use water noodles or the rubber water pipe insulation tubes.
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alpha
Veteran Member
Just a recent assessment of my motivations this year brought me to the realization that everything I do now isn't rooted in concern over GSM... it's solely in preparation for the coming destruction of our traditional way of life, as evil permeates the course of our immediate future. The goal is still self reliance but for reasons decidedly more eminent than GSM!
Martinhouse
Deceased
Alpha, my motivations to "keep on keeping on" are pretty much identical to yours, including the change you describe.
And I sure do recognize all those crooked T-posts. Here in my part of Arkansas, if I don't run into a rock, ranging from the size of a brick to that of a boxcar, while driving in a post, I'm likely to hit actual bedrock! Surprising how inventive one can get when one is determined to make something work!
And I sure do recognize all those crooked T-posts. Here in my part of Arkansas, if I don't run into a rock, ranging from the size of a brick to that of a boxcar, while driving in a post, I'm likely to hit actual bedrock! Surprising how inventive one can get when one is determined to make something work!