[comments invited] 1981 Chevy PU

[Delta]

After a looking for a long long time, I've finally found a truck I may just go buy. 1981 Chevy 1/2 ton 4WD long bed w/lumber rack. Body in good condition. 150K miles. Has Warn hubs--which apparently do not disengage; leaky main seal; not clear whether gas gauges work on both tanks (by which I mean the gauge doesn't change when the tanks are switched). Looks like recently new water pump and alternator.

I'm only planning on using this to pick up lumber and deliver sets to theater (we are talking 2 mile trips max), couple times a year trips to dump, etc., and winter driving to work when I need the 4WD for snow.

$2,500.

Anyone with comments??? Things to look for??

 

[Delta]

Comments still welcome, but I've already bought it. $2000. We got the hubs to disengage.

 

[Green Co.]

Well, I happen to like Chevy p/u's. You didn't say if it still had the original 5.0L 305CI engine, or if someone had swapped it for the larger 5.7L 350 CI engine. Only the bore was different, but a little additional power in the larger engine.

Does it have the 4 sp trans, or the TH350L auto? I've had good luck with both, the 4sp gives better fuel mileage.

The only suggestion at the moment, if it still has the ESC distibuter, I'd exchange it for an HEI distributer. The HEI had less problems with "bogging down" when the accelerator is pressed hard. It is a simple, low $ swap, and bypasses the ignition computer located under the dash.

Which main seal is leaking, front or rear?

Most times, the fuel guage problem was in the electric solenoid fuel tank switch, located on the frame, passenger side. Many times, if the guage didn't show the new tank fuel level, it didn't switch tanks. The switch says (I think) press & hold...you must press & hold the rocker switch for several seconds to effect transfer. Try it with the engine off, key on. You can hear the solenoid when it engages & completes. This will give you an idea of the time it takes to work.

And I like the Warn hubs over others.

$2K is a decent price in this neck of the woods.

Dennis2

 

[vlad]

You done good to buy an old Chevy 4x4 pu.

Suggest you buy a Chilton manual. I have both Chilton and Haynes manuals. The Haynes is written in England. Churchill remarked that we (America and Britain) are separated by a common language.

You may find my post "Ideal survival 4x4" helpful. http://www.timebomb2000.com/vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=85648

I am a reasonably competent shade tree. My son is a professional mechanic. He has rebuilt a 69 Chev 3/4 4x4 PU bumper-to-bumper. His daily driver is an 82 Chevy 3/4 4x4 PU. If you have specific questsions I will ask him for answers.

Once when I worked in Montana I packed my front hubs on 76 GMC 3x4 4x4 PU. In reassambly I could not get the snapring on the axle .I called him (in East Texas). He said to screw a 3/8x16 bolt in the threaded hole in the end fo the axle and pull outward. It worked. I got the snapring on and completed reassembly.

 

[Delta]

It's an automatic with the original 305.

I'll ask my mechanic what ignition it has.

It looks like both front and rear seals, but fact is it's hard to tell. I'll steam clean the engine and drive it a while to really see what's going on. We did find (and fix) the water leak.

The previous owner worked at the local prison and the prisoners kept it up pretty well. They built the lumber rack, repainted it, and reupholstered it. The one thing I'll want to do is replace or recover the dash--it's a mess. Any of you had experience with that?

 

[vlad]

GMC/Chevy 1975 through 1986 have HEI (high energy ignition)distributor with unshielded electronic chip vulnerable to EMP.

I chose to remove HEI from my 1976 GMC and install a points ignition distributor.

When HEI fails you stop right then. When points fail they do so with plenty of warning.

Points distributor is about $50. HEI distributor is $200 or more.

 

[Green Co.]

If the oil seals are leaking some, even as much as a quart per tank of fuel, if you drive it no more than what you've planned, I wouldn't worry too much about them. Just keep the oil level checked.

You may try changing the oil & filter, and replacing a quart of oil with a quart of Lucas Oil Stabilizer. It will sometimes help old seals swell, & slow leaks. Do not use a synthetic oil, it *will* make the leaks worse.

I replaced the dash on an '85 a few years ago, ordered from here:

http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs...=5863&catalogId=10614&langId=-1&storeId=10101

Kinda pricey. They also sell a dash cover, made from carpet, that looks decent. Browse around the site..lots to want.

Vlad's suggestion on the repair manual is good, or the library may have one to borrow. (But they don't like greasy prints on the pages )

 

[Delta]

I've been sheetrocking by garage and doing some rewireing up in the attice of the house, so haven't done much with the truck but drive it.

The fuel tank definitely does not switch--I do not hear it trying to switch when I move the switch on the dash.

I did order a "dash pad". Came in today and picked it up at a parts place (Golden State Parts) right down the road from me. The specialize in restoration parts.

We'll see if I can get the dash fixed one of these days. I may go out to the junk yard first to take one apart to see how it all goes.

Meanwhile the power window (driver's window) on my 98 Buick has decided to not work. I can hear it click when I move the button. If it ain't one thing it's a dozen!

 

[Green Co.]

GM had a bad habit of attaching the ground wire from the window switch to the metal frame of the door. You can usually remove the door panel, remove the ground wire from the sheet metal, clean & replace, to make it work. Have done many on Chevy's. 'Course, dealer will usually sell you a switch or motor with repair

 

[WFK]

Did they really use the door hinges as DC return?

 

[Green Co.]

WFK, yup, have had my 98 Silverado apart twice for this problem. Not too hard to correct, a little steel wool, re-attach, cover with a little paint applied with a q-tip.

'Course, our hinges don't take the chemical abuse that probably happens up in the northen states. Dang hinge pins seem to wear out real regular, though.

Edited after further thought:
Came back to say: there may be a ground wire thru the wiring harness to the door frame, but, the switches for window, mirror, and lock control (mounted in the plastic door panel) ground to the door sheet metal.

 

[Delta]

The weird thing on that window is that all the other switches (in the same--driver's--door) worked. But, the next day (and since) everything has worked fine.

BTW, if found a great site/fourm for 73-87 Chevy/GM trucks:

www.73-87.com

 

[Delta]

Several moons later.

I finally got "into" the truck. The double wire that runs from the tank switch to the valve goes through the firewall with a plug. I had to re-wire the plug and now I have both tanks!! The dash pad is replaced--as is the clear plastic "glass" over the instruments. In the process I painted the piece that holds the gauges and the reflector a bright silver and increased the brightness of the gauges (which were too dim). It may be a "bad" thing that a Chevy/GMC restoration parts place (Golden State Parts) is right down the road. Now I'm thinking about putting a new carpet in the cab--the eye goes to the next eyesore!

I haven't messed with the oil seals.

It does have the distributer system.

 

[Synap]

I never liked the reliability of electrical tank switches. Have torn off wires in scrub/ice and had them fail at critical times. [edit to add] Have learned the Murphy way that any un-armored electrical wires underframe in a 4x4 is badnews in waiting.

I replaced mine with a manual one and located it on the floor within easy reach under driver side seat. Did the same on my RV 2-tank setup. It also adds an extra theft speedbump if ya remember to set the switch to center-off. No gas = no go after the carb tank empties. hehe..prolly make it to the next intersection and ya get a call from your friendly PD asking why you left it in the middle of 5th&Main.

Switch can also be found at jcwhittney. You may need to add some gas lines to relocate it. Rubber is OK. Considering the truck age, prolly not a bad idea to replace all the rubber gas line components, if any, anyway. Cheap insurance on a 4x4 that normally gets more underframe abuse by the simple nature of the beast. On replacement be sure to route thru protected but not hot areas.

 

[Synap]

Next thought. Pay the bucks or do it yourself, but have those lockouts cleaned/regreased before winter.

Not a hard DIY but ya need the service manual if you've not done it before.

Vehicle service manuals for 20yr olds abound in used book stores. I suggest having both the proper year MOTOR and Chilton. Each has it's slightly different way of explaining stuff and details the other may "assume" you already know...sigh. MOTOR is particularly good for IDing cross-model/brand components.

 

[Delta]

Good ideas!

The only 4-wheelin' I'm likely to do will be in snow, but I do like the idea of a mechanical switch. Having no idea how long that electrical switch was inoperative, I wondered if I'd find myself with a tankful of old gasoline that wouldn't perform. But so far, so good!