Story Aunt Gus & Little Bear's Great Adventure Book 1 (Complete)

Kathy in FL

Administrator
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July 3rd – Riddle Lake, Delacy Creek, and Yellowstone Lake
Weather: 72/43
Driving Route:
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Warmer today that’s for sure, about twelve degrees above yesterday’s high. More trouble overnight but I’ll report that in its proper place later. This morning’s breakfast was scrambled eggs, home fries, and a couple slices of bacon each. I swear Benny is a bottomless pit, but I don’t dare feed him any less or he starts to lose weight. I’m thinking he may have a very high metabolism. Mine is a little slower which Dad always said was a good thing or I would eat us out of house and home like Lawrence did. I kinda remember that when Lawrence was in high school he ate like a bear prepping for winter. Looks like Benny is going to be the same way.
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Our first hike of the day was Riddle Lake Trail. It was a 4.8-mile, there-and-back trail. What was neat was that we crossed the Continental Divide, and we did it twice; once going and once returning. We also hiked through small mountain meadows and forests to the shores of a pretty little lake. We saw elk in the meadows and birds near the lake that I think were trumpeter swans. They were swans of some type. I’ve only seen swans in zoos so I’m not sure.
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When I was a kid one of the books that Grandma Barry had me read was The Trumpet of the Swan by EB White. It was about a Trumpeter Swan that was born mute and how he learned – with help – to navigate through life and even gained a mate to live with (swans mate for life). I think it was Grandma Barry’s way of trying to tell me to learn how to make it in the world I live in and that it could all turn out in the end, and I would get a life like the rest of my kind. Sometimes I wonder about that. On the other hand, I’ll be satisfied if my only purpose is Benny. It feels right. I wish I could explain that better, but I suppose there is no need if there isn’t going to be anyone else. And no, that isn’t me being pathetic or feeling sorry for myself. I can’t explain it. But then again, I’m twenty years old. There’s lots of time, maybe ‘til the end of time, and I’m just not gong to worry about it.

The hike was level and led us first through trees, which it stayed in most of the way until we were very close to the lake. Fires over the years have burned sections of the surrounding forest and the re-growth almost looked like a mosaic. An intentional replanting resulting in distinct stands of varying ages might be a better description, but the mosaic one sticks in my head better. The trail abruptly ended where they had it closed off because the lake was being used as a swan nesting site. Benny and I both agreed not to go further even though it was a temptation to see if there were any baby swans scooting around the lake.

Breakfast had been filling and a fruit cup was enough of a mid-morning snack for both of us so we changed directions and headed to our next hike, Delacy Creek Trail, a 7-mile there-and-back. The destination was to the shores of Yellowstone’s largest backcountry lake. We had to be careful to stop in the right location because beyond there the trail continued into Yellowstone’s huge backcountry. One, we didn’t have a backcountry permit, and two, I had no desire to test my orienteering skills in an area frequented by bears and had no organized trail network.

The trail began on the Old Faithful to West Thumb road where it crosses DeLacy Creek and ends at an intersection with the Dogshead Trail near the Shoshone Lake outlet to Lewis River Channel. There are so many trailheads that you have to get very specific or you can wind up on the wrong one. The trails in Yellowstone almost require a schematic kind of map, there’s just that many of them. Lucky for us, we found what we were looking for easily using the interactive map on the app.
Picture4.jpgFrom the trailhead, the trail followed DeLacy Creek for three miles dropping 150 feet to an inlet to Shoshone Lake. Gotta say, all the lakes I’ve seen thus far make me wish for a kayak to explore them. After a mile, the trail broke out of the forest and entered DeLacy Meadows. And here is where we got a history lesson by way of one of the offline features of the app. Walter DeLacy entered what is now Yellowstone in 1863 searching for gold. He did not find any, but he did discover Shoshone Lake. He liked it so much he named it for himself DeLacy Lake. In 1872 a member of the second Hayden Survey of Yellowstone officially named it Shoshone Lake after the Indians who frequented the lake. An early park official felt sorry for DeLacy and named this creek after him. Darn those early eco-fiends. LOL. You can’t even discover something, name it, and have the name stick when politicians get involved. It is their way or the highway, they always win one way or the other.
For several miles the trail skirted the eastern side of the meadows. The result was great views. The meadow grew wider as it approached the lake. At the 3-mile mark (best guess) the trail reached the lake and a junction with the North Shore Shoshone Lake Trail which branched to the right. Shoshone Lake, at 8,050 acres, is the second largest lake in the park and is the largest backcountry lake in the Continental US. Here, and along the beach to the right, were some of the finest views you can get of the lake. Oh how I wanted to put a kayak or canoe on that lake.

The DeLacy Creek Trail continued straight, entered the trees, and began a 4-mile up and down roller coaster trip along the eastern shore of Shoshone Lake, mostly in the trees. The last mile of the trail travels through an area heavily burned by the 1988 fires, but you wouldn’t know it if you weren’t told. The area has rejuvenated the way all such areas eventually do when Mother Nature is allowed to do her work. The trail ended at a junction with the South Shore Shoshone Lake Trail and the Dogshead Trail.

Both Benny and I were very hungry by the time we got back to the van. I decided we were going to eat before we did anything else. Wound up eating wraps that weren’t half bad, or maybe we were simply too hungry to care. Gluten-free tortillas, sandwich meat, a little shredded cheese, bean sprouts, and drained diced tomatoes from a can. Bean chips and homemade salsa completed things as our side.

I had my phone on for the GPS and Yellowstone app while we were hiking and decided to charge it up just in case. When I plug it in, it sometimes resets from offline to trying to go online. Sure enough it was searching for a signal. I was about to toggle it back off when emails and notifications started coming in. Good Lord Almighty. I swear, some people have to turn life into a hillbilly soap opera no matter how much trouble it causes others.

I’ll try and condense the nonsense I found out and keep it down to a dull roar. Essentially I was correct up to a point, the person originally out to hack my identity was Mizzou’s skanky “friend” but she was the one that sold my info to him. Apparently that group that I hired to help me dig out and protect my identity are fast and they could be fast because the Skuzzball tried to continue what he was doing from Lancaster prison using the prison’s computers. Yep. He is just that stupid. It was an easy digital trail once they had a direction to look in. They were able to tie Mizzou in and she got arrested last night in a sting operation back in Key West. Why? Because it so happens that they had started to do to Kirkland the same thing they had done to me, just with less scope. However they did their tracking they discovered that Mizzou was still feeding him stolen info on people all in her sphere in Florida. Idiots. The Skuzzball is looking at some serious time now because he is a three-striker. I didn’t know it but Mizzou is too from some crap she was into before she met Groucho. She’d cleaned up her act, with his help, but she just couldn’t stay away from her former “friends” and without Groucho’s financial support she couldn’t make money fast enough to keep up with her lifestyle choices.

The identity protection company needed their permission to file a complaint not only against the Skuzzball but against Mizzou. I didn’t even have to think about it because Groucho and Stella sent me a message and told me to have at it because no one messes with their kid and that is what Kirkland is … Groucho’s son and Stella’s stepson.

Groucho wrote, “No mercy this time Gus. I’m done and want to be shed of that woman once and for all. If she’ll do this to Kirkland, what else will she do?” Stella added, “She managed to surprise me with a higher level of stupidity than I expected. That doesn’t happen often. She get her off our backs. We’ll owe you.”

I rolled my eyes and replied, “No more of that ‘owe’ stuff. If we start counting, I’ll wind up showing that I’m in hock up to my eyeballs from all the help and support I was given. This is just mutual aid and support and let’s leave it at Karma has to come home to roost on occasion. I’ll take care of things on my end, and I’ve attached the contact info for a free service that will help walk Kirkland through what he needs to do to get rid of any potential problems on his end.”

I was adulting and coloring inside the lines but that doesn’t mean I wasn’t stressed out, so I was glad that the next activity I had planned was kayaking on Yellowstone Lake. When I had looked it up online I could not believe how much they wanted per person for a half day of kayaking in a group, even if you had your own kayak. Oh well. I wanted to start saving money and not spending over $200 per person would be a way to do it that’s for sure.
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There was a ranger at the ramp checking permits but I was prepared and had the permit in a waterproof ticket holder. That made things faster and smoother and then we were in the water. Oh wow. I’ve kayaked in a lot of places but I’ve never kayaked around geysers but that’s exactly what we did, following the rules, as we toodled along the West Thumb basin. Benny was enthralled and didn’t really want to head back to camp though the bugs were starting to think it was time to come out. Of course he didn’t act like a spoiled brat – we’d seen a few that day – but he was acting like we wouldn’t be on the water again.
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“Can’t promise Little Bear but I’ve got it penciled in on a few days. We’re going to be in Yellowstone longer than any other park so hopefully we’ll have some more water time while we’re here.”

“Really?!”

“Would I fool you about something like this?” I asked him with a smile.

“All right! Oops … indoor voice. All right!”

I laughed and nearly didn’t mind carrying the kayak back to the van. I mean I didn’t really mind but the ramp area was really busy and it gave me the heebies to have my hands full of kayak and not able to have them available in case Benny needed me in the crowd. And then getting the kayak back on top of the van took some time and effort. Good thing I’m still in shape. The kayak weighs in at about 70 lbs. If I had an adult partner it wouldn’t be a big deal but there is no way that Benny can carry one end. It is enough that he tries to tote our gear.

“That’s some slick trick young lady.”

I’d put Benny in the van and was looking around. I saw a woman about Meemo’s age looking at me with a grin of approval. I grinned back and replied, “You do what you gotta in this life.”

“Sure do.”

She was still there when I came down the ladder and asked, “Mind some advice.”

I just grinned giving a none answer.

“You have solar panels up there?”

“Yes ma’am.”

“How long is your van?”

“Er … 22 feet.”

“And the kayak?”

“Twelve feet.”

“Okay. You got a way to protect the panels while you pull the kayak up?”

“Don’t need to especially. The panels sit on either side while the kayak bow fits between them.”

“That’s even better. You know what a block and tackle is, or a wench?”

“Yes ma’am.”

“Well put you a … a wench would be better but block and tackle will work … something on the front of the van that will pull the kayak up. On the exact opposite end where the kayak will go up and over, put a roller or guide to keep it straight.”

“Oh! I think … hang on and let me draw it out.”

Sure enough, her suggestions matched the picture in my head. She was happy she was able to help, and I was thankful for it. She drove on by and I saw she had a smaller utility van and she had a single kayak on top of it with a board over her solar panels. I realized I was better off in that department and while I didn’t have a wench, I did have a pull along as well as a set of ratchet straps. Next time I took the kayak off there was going to be an experiment. All Benny said to that was, “Cool! Can I help?”

“Sure, but not tonight. Tonight we need to eat and get to the amphitheater.”

Went as planned the rest of the evening and Benny has crashed and burned because he is so excited for tomorrow. I’m … I’m not sure how to feel. Another holiday that we used to celebrate as a family but I’m not sure how to handle it now. I guess I’ll do the best I can. They aren’t doing anything particularly special here in the park except constantly remind everyone no fireworks, not even sparklers. I just want to give Benny a good life with some good memories. I suppose I’ll simply have to do the best I can and pray to the Creator that my inevitable mistakes are small and easily corrected.
 

Kathy in FL

Administrator
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July 4th – INDEPENDENCE DAY, Old Faithful, Upper Geyser Basin (Part 1)

Weather: 75/38
Driving Route:
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Spent the day in the Upper Geyser Basin and going over some quotations that Grandfather Barry had written into a composition book for me, along with a few other things that he would occasionally put in there … stories of his life from boyhood to adulthood, family history, all of it … and all in his own handwriting which is pretty unusual in this day and age of tech and digital communication. Dad and Lawrence put a few things in there as well along the same line as what Grandfather Barry had done. That composition book is one of the few keepsakes that I’ve hung onto and kept with me rather than leave it in the Jacksonville storage locker. For me I suppose it is a bit like Benny holding onto Lawrence’s flag. I showed it to Benny – he remembers seeing it as I stick things in there or write in there occasionally that I want to keep or remember.

Since he has his three-ring binder he keeps stuff in, especially his Junior Ranger stuff, I told him that if he wanted, I would write the quotes down the same way his great grandfather had written them for me. He knew it meant something, but it is still a bit of a deep subject for him at his age. I know he is young but given the kind of stuff life has handed out for our family there’s no time like the present and putting things off really isn’t a good idea if it can be avoided.

“They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety.” Benjamin Franklin, Memoirs of the life & writings of Benjamin Franklin.

Today we headed to the Upper Geyser Basin, home of Old Faithful, to celebrate in our own way Independence Day. The area is approximately two square miles and contains the largest concentration and nearly one-quarter of all the geysers in the world. That was pretty crazy when Benny and I read it on a sign-thingie where I picked him up a special Junior Ranger book just for the Old Faithful area. I also picked up one called “Junior Scientist.” The programs cost here in Yellowstone but I find that an acceptable expense. According to the booklets I glanced over briefly before we started there are a variety of thermal features there: spouting geysers, colorful hot springs, and steaming fumaroles. We found it all to be true.

“When the people fear the government there is tyranny, when the government fears the people there is liberty.” John Basil Barnhill.
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From the visitor center we headed directly to Old Faithful and since it was close to the time for the geyser to go off it was already crowded despite how early it was in the morning. I put Benny up on my shoulders so he could see, and he got the wiggles so bad I had to take him down right after the geyser finished its show. Man, his little bones were poking right through me. Ouch. I need to get some meat on that boy.

The 1870 Washburn Expedition camped near Old Faithful and discovered the geyser had frequent and regular eruptions over 100 feet in height. They dubbed the geyser Old Faithful because it erupts once approximately every 45 to 90 minutes, depending on the duration of the previous eruption.

Nathaniel P. Langford, a member of the 1870 Washburn Expedition-who named many of the thermal features of the Upper Geyser Basin, later stated; "We gave such names to those of the geysers which we saw in action as we think will best illustrate their peculiarities."

Benny put together an interesting personal memory guide for “school”, initially using the dictation feature on my phone. He spent the night creating a digital scrapbook from the phone notes and pictures that we took along the way. If you ask him to write, he still gets things backwards and upside down. But he can copy-and-paste with the best of them. One of the early education games that Penny had bought for him is where he learned initially and he has simply improved over time. I remember Dad being disgusted when I could program the tv and computers before I was double digits. Oh he laughed, but in hindsight I wonder if it made him feel a little inadequate at the same time. I know Benny is only five but some of the things he can do on the old, second-hand tablet I got him in March makes him looked like Einstein’s apprentice while I’m still trying to figure out what exactly it is I want to do on mine. Oh well. So long as I can keep him from getting additcted to the tech rather than getting enough sunshine and fresh air I won’t worry too much. Heck, most schools don’t even have textbooks these days. He better learn how to make a tablet boogie so he can keep up.
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Old Faithful has a temperature of 199°, an interval between eruptions of 30-120 minutes. The duration of the eruptions runs 1.5-5 minutes to a height of 110-185 feet. I gotta say, it was amazing and awesome. My chest tightened a bit wishing Dad was there but then when Benny said the same thing about Lawrence, it was so natural to tell him he was, because they are always with us in some way, shape, or form. Benny accepted my explanation so readily that I found that I too was comforted, and we both thoroughly enjoyed our time there.

The intervals between eruptions average between 45-90 minutes and the average duration is about four minutes. A ranger explained how they predicted the next eruption based on the preceding one. To predict the next eruption, its first continuous surge is timed until the final splash. If the total eruption is less than four minutes, the next eruption will occur in approximately 40-60 minutes. If the eruption is four minutes or longer, the next interval will be 75-100 minutes. Cool beans huh.

“If liberty means anything at all, it means the right to tell people what they do not want to hear.” George Orwell.

In no particular order except this is how Benny put it together, I’ll list the geysers and other features of the Upper Geyser Basin.
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Artemisia Geyser: Temperature 191-202°F Interval 6-16hours. Duration 10-30 minutes. Height 10-25 feet. Geologist Walter Weed – though the name would make you think he should be a botanist instead - named this feature in 1883 for the sagebrush-like coloration of the deposits. Artemisia is the scientific name for sagebrush. Artemisia Geyser has the largest ornamented crater of any thermal feature in Yellowstone. The popcorn-like ridges were formed by evaporation and small pools 30 feet from the 55x60 foot crater. An eruption is signaled by a sudden rise of water in the crater and heavy overflow. The water begins to boil and jets rise to 20-25 feet. After an eruption, water drops nearly two feet in the crater.
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Morning Glory Pool: Temperature 171.6°F Dimensions 23x26.6 feet. Depth 23 feet. A deep, funnel-shaped pool with a dark blue center. The resemblance morning glory flower is responsible for its name in the early 1880s. It has been a popular thermal feature and a symbol of Yellowstone. The early stagecoach and automobile road came within a few feet of this pool until 1971 when the road was rerouted. Early visitors carelessly removed the delicate scalloped border and dumped debris into the pool. In 1950 the water level was lowered by siphoning which induced the pool to erupt. Socks, bath towels, 76 handkerchiefs, $86.27 in pennies, $8.10 in other coins came up; in all, 112 different objects were removed from Morning Glory. The debris had reduced the flow of water and contributed to the decline in temperature, causing bacteria to grow in the cooler yellow and orange edges of the pool.

“Liberty means responsibility. That is why most men dread it.” George Bernard Shaw, Man and Superman.
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Riverside Geyser: Temperature 201.2°F Interval 7 hours. Duration 20 minutes. Height 75 feet. The 1871 Hayden Expedition officially named this geyser for its location on the bank of the Firehole River. Riverside is an isolated geyser, with its own plumbing system (yeah, that was a funny way of explaining it), and it has regular, predictable eruptions. About one to two hours before an eruption water begins to overflow and surge in the crater. Forty to 50 minutes before an eruption water may boil and splash from the crater. A heavy surge or splash then triggers an eruption. The column of water arches over the Firehole River at about a 70° angle and at times spans the width of the River. The eruption peaks during the first five minutes and then begins to subside gradually, followed by a steam phase.
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Spa Geyser: Temperature 193°F Interval Irregular (dormancy). Duration minutes to several hours. Height 20-50 feet. Geologist Walter Weed in 1887 named this thermal feature apparently after a curative mineral spring in Spa, Belgium. Spa Geyser has always had an interconnecting relationship with Grotto and Rocket geysers. Spa usually erupts during a long eruption (more than 2.5 hours) of Grotto. If it does not erupt during an eruption of Grotto the 36-foot diameter basin then usually overflows with boiling water surging to a height of 3-4 feet, triggering a series of explosive bursts lasting several minutes to several hours.

“My definition of a free society is a society where it is safe to be unpopular.” Adlai Stevenson, speech, Detroit, 1952.

Rocket Geyser: Temperature 200°F Interval 1 hour to 2 days (usually erupts during Grotto Geyser's eruption). Duration follows eruptive pattern of Grotto Geyser, Height 3-10 feet (with major eruptions up to 50 feet). Rocket was named before 1904 and is descriptive of its eruption. Rocket Geyser erupts in union with Grotto Geyser. During an eruption of Grotto, Rocket, it sends steady splashes and jets 3 to 10 feet high. Occasionally Rocket has a major eruption about 1-2 hours after Grotto starts. During a major eruption Grotto becomes silent and Rocket sends an eruptive jet up to 50 feet high.
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Grotto Geyser: Temperature 201 °F Interval 1 hour to 2 days. Duration varies (3 hours for short mode and 9-13 hours for long modes). Height 20-30 feet. The 1870 Washburn Expedition named this unusual feature for the "winding apertures penetrating the sinter." It is a weirdly shaped formation nearly 8 feet high. According to the guide book, the club-shaped pillar and two adjoining arches are formed from fallen trees. The accumulation of sinter from eruptions and evaporation has changed their original shape into the spooky formations seen today. The eruptions consist of a series of powerful splashes, steam and the discharge of nearly 150 gallons per minute. Deep gurgling and splashing sounds are constantly emitted from the vent. Sounds like a dragon with indigestion if you ask me. Benny thought that was funny anyway.

“Whoever would overthrow the liberty of a nation must begin by subduing the freeness of speech.” Benjamin Franklin, Silence Dogood, The Busy-Body, and Early Writings.

I wish Benny hadn’t heard some news – aka gossip – being shared around. What they call “thermal injuries” are apparently a semi-regular occurrence in Yellowstone. I knew that from my pre-adventure research as well as some stories that Dad and I heard way back when we’d been planning our trips. He impressed on me then that hiking “off trail” was not a good idea in Yellowstone but apparently there are other things that happen.

Yesterday a 20-year-old woman from Washington, traveling with her family, stopped at Maiden’s Grave Spring near the Firehole River. Upon opening the door to their car, her dog jumped out and ran into the spring. While trying to retrieve the dog, the young woman suffered “significant thermal burns between her shoulders and feet. Her father pulled her and the dog out and drove the pair to West Yellowstone, Montana, where park rangers and local emergency provided care until she could be medevac’d out. The dog wasn’t as lucky and died of its injuries. Maiden’s Grave Spring is around 200 degrees Fahrenheit; 150-degree water can cause third-degree burns to a human within two seconds.

Earlier this year a 19-year-old concessionaire employee suffered second- and third-degree burns in Old Faithful while cleaning up trash that had been thrown in. Unbelievable; some kid about Kirkland’s age is going to have scars for the remainder of their life because people just gotta litter. There are signs all over the place, but some idiots still think it is cute to toss things into the geysers to see if they get blown back out.

That’s not the worst story. Last year, late afternoon, a twenty-something visitor from Oregon trying to get some sunset photos for his blog died after slipping and falling while walking off-trail in the Norris Geyser Basin. I heard a ranger say that his body had dissolved in the spring’s acidic water by the time they returned to retrieve him the next morning. Benny looked a little green and I gotta admit that the visual that story left didn’t do a lot for me either.

“Patriotism is supporting your country all the time and your government when it deserves it.”
— Mark Twain

I got us going as quickly as I could get through the crowd after that lovely bit of news. Ugh. It took a few minutes of distraction, but Benny finally relaxed fully and started enjoying himself again. But he’s all about the rules and insisted on including it in the scrapbook he created and why. So yeah, it made an impression. I just hope it doesn’t make for nightmares.

Daisy Geyser: Temperature 192-204°F Interval 78-144 minutes. Duration 2.5-4.5 minutes. Height 75-150feet. Daisy Geyser is the most reliable and predictable of the major geysers in the Upper Geyser Basin. Its average interval is between 85 to 100 minutes. However, wind and thunderstorms can delay an eruption up to a half hour. Atmospheric pressure moves water in the underground plumbing system same as it does in a barometer. Splashing begins approximately 20 minutes before an eruption from the larger of the two cones, and 10 minutes before in the smaller cone. Heavy splashing leads to an eruption and reaches its maximum height in 45 to 60 seconds. The water jets at a 70° angle. And the joyous smell reminded me of the sulfur water that comes up out of the artesoam well near the old Barrymore homestead cabin.
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Comet Geyser: Temperature 201.6°F Interval steady (irregular). Duration steady. Height 5-15 feet. Dr. F. Hayden in 1878 originally named this geyser Spray. Due to confusion of early geyser descriptions, names of the Daisy Group became switched and the error was never corrected. Comet has the largest cone in the Group, suggesting it is a powerful geyser. However, water rarely splashes out of the crater, and when it does it rarely reaches 6 feet high. It has been a steady geyser with little change since its discovery.

“Experience should teach us to be most on our guard to protect liberty when the Government's purposes are beneficent. Men born to freedom are naturally alert to repel invasion of their liberty by evil-minded rulers. The greatest dangers to liberty lurk in the insidious encroachment by men of zeal, well-meaning but without understanding.” Justice Louis Brandeis.

Splendid Geyser: Temperature 199.4°F Interval infrequent to dormancy. Duration 2-10 minutes. Height 120-200 feet. P.W. Norris named this geyser in 1880 for its spectacular eruptions. Splendid was considered one of the major geysers before 1898, when it became dormant and remained that way until 1951-with only one eruption in 1931-and active until 1959 when it became dormant again. In 1971 Splendid resumed its infrequent activity. When it does erupt, there is an estimated discharge of 40,000 gallons. That’s a large, inground swimming pool full of water.
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Punch Bowl Spring: Temperature 199°F Dimensions 12 feet diameter. Depth 30 feet. The name, descriptive of its punch bowl shape, was given by members of the 1871 Hayden survey. The crater has a raised rim about 30 inches high. Water constantly boils and bubbles around the edge resembling a large, bubbling cauldron. During the turn of the century, hot water was piped from Punch Bowl to a tent camp a quarter of a mile to the north. It is one of the few thermal features on which human tampering has had no disastrous effect. Ribbons of bright green and orange cyanobacteria line the run-off channels. No underground connections are known to exist with other springs.

“I hope we once again have reminded people that man is not free unless government is limited. There's a clear cause and effect here that is as neat and predictable as a law of physics: as government expands, liberty contracts.” Ronald Reagan.
 

Kathy in FL

Administrator
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July 4th – INDEPENDENCE DAY, Old Faithful, Upper Geyser Basin (Part 2)

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Mastiff Geyser: Temperature 202°F Interval frequent small eruptions. Duration seconds to minutes. Height 1-30 feet. Around 1900 the Hague Party named Mastiff Geyser for its position as a watchdog close to Giant Geyser. Mastiff is located only 22 feet north of Giant, is closely related to Giant and exchanges energy with it. Before 1951 Mastiff was an inactive geyser and was considered dormant. During that year energy shifted from Giant to Mastiff and Catfish geysers and they both erupted nearly 100 feet high. By early 1952 the energy shift ceased and since then Mastiff has spring-like qualities with weak splashing from its 4 foot, bacteria and algae covered cone.

Giant Geyser: Temperature 202.7°F Interval 6-14 days to dormancy. Duration I hour. Height 150-250 feet. Named by the 1870 Washburn Expedition for its size and long duration, it is one of the major geysers of Yellowstone. It has only erupted a few times since 1955. Before 1955 hydrothermal activity shifted cyclically from Grotto Geyser to Giant every four to five years, but since the 1959 earthquake, energy has vented through Grotto Geyser. These days Giant doesn’t truly erupt but roars, splashes, steams and has one of the hottest vents in the Basin. The cone is also impressive; broken on one side, it is 12 feet high, with an inside diameter of six feet.

“The urge to save humanity is almost always a false face for the urge to rule it.” H.L. Mencken.
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Oblong Geyser: Temperature 196°F Interval 4-13 hours. Duration 5-7 minutes. Height 20-40 feet. The 1872 Hayden Expedition named this geyser for the shape of its crater. The greenish-blue tinted pool and elaborate formations around the crater are as impressive as an eruption. Even though Oblong is not considered a major geyser, an eruption discharges a high volume of water. During the quiet interval there is a slow rise of water in the crater which can take one to three hours to fill. Eruptions are difficult to predict since there are occasional periods of turbulence and overflow. When it does erupt, a fountain of water wells up, setting off jets of water accompanied by splashing and steam.
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Beauty Pool: Temperature 164-175°F Dimensions 60 feet in diameter. Depth 25 feet. This spring and nearby Chromatic Pool are among the most colorful pools in the geyser basins. Their colors begin with a deep blue center radiating out to yellow, orange and red. The two pools are related. When one pool begins to overflow, the water level in the other drops. This periodic shifting in energy is accompanied by a 10°F change in temperature. In recent years the water temperature has cooled, allowing an increase in bacteria and algae growth and a resulting change in color.

“Certainly one of the chief guarantees of freedom under any government, no matter how popular and respected, is the right of citizens to keep and bear arms.” Hubert H. Humphrey.

Turban Geyser: Temperature 197°F Interval 15-25 minutes. Duration 4-5 minutes. Height 5-20 feet. Dr. A.C. Peale, geologist for the 1872 Hayden Party, named this geyser for the resemblance "of some of the globular masses of sinter in its basin to a Turkish headpiece." Turban and Grand geysers are closely associated and have a complex relationship. Turban's crater has a raised rim and lies north of Grand's large, shallow basin. Normally Turban erupts every 15-25 minutes, except during an eruption of Grand. Grand erupts only at the start of an eruption of Turban. The rising water in Turban's crater triggers an eruption in Grand. Turban plays constantly during Grand's eruption and for an hour after until Grand returns to normal.
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Grand Geyser: Temperature 201°F Interval 6-15 hours. Duration 9-16 minutes. Height 140-200 feet. According to our guidebook, it is one of the few major geysers that has not changed very much since its early discovery. This fountain-type geyser erupts from a shallow basin which slowly fills with water over a 5-hour period. Grand's eruptive cycle depends on the activity of Turban geyser as well as West Triplet and Rift geysers. Grand only erupts at the start of a Turban active period. During eruption Grand usually has 1 to 6 bursts lasting 1 to 10 minutes each.

“I think we’ve been through a period where too many people have been given to understand that if they have a problem, it’s the government’s job to cope with it. ‘I have a problem, I’ll get a grant.’ ‘I’m homeless, the government must house me.’ They’re casting their problem on society. And, you know, there is no such thing as society. There are individual men and women, and there are families. And no government can do anything except through people, and people must look to themselves first. It’s our duty to look after ourselves and then, also to look after our neighbour. People have got the entitlements too much in mind, without the obligations. There’s no such thing as entitlement, unless someone has first met an obligation.” – Margaret Thatcher.

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Spasmodic Geyser: Temperature 200°F Interval hours (irregular). Duration minutes to hours. Height 3-15 feet. According to Benny, he and I are “spasmodic” … a new word that he has taken a liking to. I don’t necessarily disagree but I hope he picks another new word soon. That one is getting old, fast.

A geologist with the 1878 Hayden survey, named Spasmodic Geyser for its erratic eruptions. This geyser plays from a collection of vents-estimated at 20-centered around two large craters. When Spasmodic is in full eruption water jets from a few inches to several feet high from the numerous vents. The two pools also erupt up to 15 feet high, with intermittent pauses and boiling, pulsating water. Spasmodic and Penta geysers, and possibly Sawmill Geyser, have subterranean connections. When the small, nearby Penta Geyser erupts, all activity in Spasmodic ceases.

Sawmill Geyser: Temperature 189-207°F Interval 1-3 hours. Duration 15-90 minutes. Height 5-40 feet. A topographer of the 1871 Hayden Expedition named this geyser for its whistling sound, reminiscent of a large sawmill in operation. The crater of this fountain-type geyser is empty between eruptions. A gurgling sound and then a sudden filling of the basin indicates a pending eruption. Pulsating jets of water erupt through the pool producing a puffing or whistling noise. An eruption produces a large, steady discharge of water to the run-off channel.

“Independence Day: freedom has its life in the hearts, the actions, the spirit of men and so it must be daily earned and refreshed – else like a flower cut from its life-giving roots, it will wither and die.” – Dwight D. Eisenhower

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Crested Pool: Temperature 200°F Dimensions 25x30 feet. Depth 42 feet. Dr. F.V. Hayden first described this pool in 1871 and wrote of its "unnatural clearness" and the "delicate tracery of pure white silica." Photographer W.H. Jackson took the first photograph of Crested Pool during the 1871 expedition. Other than the addition of a board walk, the pool has changed very little when compared to the early photograph. It is a superheated pool, and the edges are in a constant state of vibration with occasional surges of hot water. Temperatures recorded near the bottom of the pool have reached 237°F. Crested Pool took the life of a young boy who unknowingly ran into the steam and the pool in the spring of 1970. Another one of those “thermal injuries.” A railing now surrounds the boardwalk along the edge of the pool. I had Benny firmly by his backpack. I’ve seen way too many volcano disaster movies, Grandfather Barry and I used to watch them on the sly. One of his favorites was an old one with some guy named Pierce Bronson in it that had one of the precursors of the eruption be local hot springs boiling people alive. Ew. The things we used to watch when Grandma Barry wasn’t around to pull rank.
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Castle Geyser: Temperature 200°F Interval 9-11 hours. Duration 1 hour. Height 60-90 feet. Members of the 1870 Langford-Doane Expedition named this feature for the "resemblance to the ruins of an old castle." The large cone is nearly 12 feet high with a diameter of 20 feet at the top. Castle was an irregular geyser, with periods of dormancy, before the 1959 earthquake. Since the earthquake, it has been a regular, easily predictable geyser. The water phase of an eruption lasts about 15 minutes and a steam phase, similar to a steam locomotive, lasting an additional 45 minutes.

“We on this continent should never forget that men first crossed the Atlantic not to find soil for their ploughs but to secure liberty for their souls. – Robert J. McCracken

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Lion Group: Temperature 202°F Interval 2-5 hours (irregular). Duration 2-4 minutes. Height 30-60 feet. Four geysers comprise the Lion Group - Lion, Lioness, Big and Little Cub geysers-and all have subterranean interconnections. The main geyser was named in 1881 for its resemblance, when viewed from the south, to the body and maned head of a reclining lion. Lion Geyser has the largest cone and usually has 2-4 eruptions per cycle-lasting from 4 to 36 hours-at intervals of two to four hours when it is active. Often, however, it can be 2 to 14 days between cycles.

Ear Spring: Temperature 202°F Dimensions 4x6 feet. Depth 4 feet. A small but popular spring in the shape of a human ear. In 1890 geologist Walter Weed originally named this Oyster Spring for its shape and later early tourists called it Devil's Ear. Geyserite or sinter form the ornate encrustation around its edge and along the overflow channel. It is a super-heated spring reaching temperatures of 205°F, and it is usually boiling. Surging, strong boiling and heavy discharge occur after an eruption of Giantess Geyser.

“This nation will remain the land of the free only so long as it is the home of the brave.” – Elmer Davis

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Aurum Geyser: Temperature 200°F Interval 3-4 hours. Duration 60 seconds. Height 10-30 feet. A small geyser named for the soft pastel colors surrounding the vent. Iron oxides are responsible for staining it peach and golden colors. In the past Aurum has had long periods of dormancy, but since 1985, with the exception of 1988 during the year of the fires, it has been a regular, active geyser. Splashing begins an eruption which usually jets 10-15 feet high.
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Doublet Pool: Temperature 194.4°F Dimensions 9x25 feet. Depth 8 feet. Doublet Pool is two hot springs together forming a sapphire-blue-colored pool. A ledge extends over the surface of the pool and two feet below this is another ledge, indicating that the water level was lower at an earlier time. The pool produces a periodic, inaudible thumping which can be felt, more than heard, when standing close to the pool. The water also slightly pulses during the thumping process.

“We must be free not because we claim freedom, but because we practice it.” – William Faulkner
 

Kathy in FL

Administrator
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July 4th – INDEPENDENCE DAY, Old Faithful, Upper Geyser Basin (Part 3)

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Pump Geyser: Temperature 199°F Interval steady. Duration steady. Height 2-3 feet. Pump Geyser, named for its descriptive sound, is a small, nearly constant geyser located in the center of Geyser Hill. It splashes, but only 2 to 3 feet high, and thumps without an apparent interval, though there are lulls. Since its discovery, this thermal feature has had no noticeable changes in activity. Even the 1959 earthquake had little effect on its function, though others around it were greatly affected. Since Pump is almost constantly in play it produces a steady flow of water which has resulted in a stable microbial community in the run-off channel. This is perhaps the richest and thickest laminated mat in the basin. It supports colonies of ephydrid flies, tiny, vermilion hot spring mites, and predator wolf spiders. Benny learned that while doing the Junior Scientist activities.

Sponge Geyser: Temperature 199°F Interval 1 minute. Duration seconds to 1 minute. Height 1-2 feet. Sponge Geyser, named for its rounded, hole-ridden cone which gives it the appearance of a sponge, is the successor to an older, more active geyser. The iron-stained cone is now in the process of erosion. The eruptions occur at one-minute intervals and mainly consist of boiling.

“America means opportunity, freedom, power.” – Ralph Waldo Emerson

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Giantess Geyser: Temperature 200.7°F Interval 0 to 41 eruptions per year (dormancy). Duration 3-43 hours. Height 150-200 feet. Nathaniel Langford of the 1870 Washburn Expedition named this feature "the Giantess, the largest of all the geysers we saw in eruption." Giantess is unpredictable with long dormant periods. When it does erupt, the first hour is generally the most spectacular. An eruption has two phases-a water and steam phase. Water periodically jets to 200 feet high during the first hour and as the water phase subsides steam begins and roars from the 15x20 foot crater, sending a large column of steam into the atmosphere. Giantess' vent has been probed to a depth of 62 feet below the lip.

Heart Spring: Temperature 201 °F Dimensions 8x13 feet. Depth 16 feet. This spring received its name because of the heart-like shape of the crater. Heart Spring has had temperature fluctuations from 150-202°F. This wide range of temperature has allowed microbial growth to form varicolored patterns. This spring is typical of many of Yellowstone's thermal springs. Nearly 10,000 thermal features exist in Yellowstone and many are alkaline hot springs similar to Heart Spring in size and appearance.

“Intellectually I know that America is no better than any other country; emotionally I know she is better than every other country.”— Sinclair Lewis

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Depression Geyser: Temperature 200°F Interval 3.5-5.5 hours. Duration 2-3 minutes. Height 8-10 feet. Prior to 1959 Depression Geyser was an unnamed spring and seldom erupted. The 1959 earthquake set this geyser into action with subsequent earthquakes causing further changes in its activity. An eruption is characterized by a strong overflow and a pulsating, splash-type eruption. Between eruptions the crater gradually fills with water colored a deep green. No underground connections are known to exist with other springs.
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Beehive Geyser: Temperature 199°F Interval 7 hours to days (dormancy). Duration 4-5 minutes. Height 150-200 feet. The 1870 Washburn Expedition named this geyser after its beehive-shaped cone. The cone is three and a half feet high with a four foot diameter. Beehive, considered one of the largest active geysers in the world, erupts to a height of 200 feet. However, since its discovery, it has been unpredictable. It has eruptive intervals of eight to twelve hours, but it has infrequent eruptions as long as 3 to 10 days and dormancy of weeks to months. A small vent located a few feet east of Beehive, called Beehive's Indicator, erupts 6-10 feet usually 10-20 minutes before an eruption. An eruption begins with occasional splashing, then small surges. These progress into an eruption as the ground rumbles and a narrow, straight fountain of water jets upward.

“I know not what course others may take; but as for me, give me liberty or give me death!”
—Patrick Henry

Plume Geyser: Temperature 183-194°F Interval 25-36 minutes. Duration 1-2 minutes. Height 10-30 feet. Plume is an example of a newly formed geyser. It apparently formed as the result of a steam explosion in 1922, leaving a jagged opening flush to the ground. Plume flourished for several years, then became dormant until 1941 after which it again became active and erupted nearly every hour on the hour. The 1959 earthquake changed its eruptive cycle and since then it has erupted on a half hour cycle with 1 to 4 bursts. In 1972 another steam explosion added and extended the vent to the west.
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Anemone Geyser: Temperature 200°F Interval 3-8 minutes, Duration seconds to 2 minutes, Height 3-10 feet. Turn-of-the-century tourists named this geyser after the anemone flower. The geyser erupts from two shallow basins, nearly six feet apart. The two vents act separately with minor eruptions occurring about every 5-10 minutes to a height of 5-6 feet. Activity shifts from vent to vent, and they seldom erupt together.

“The history of free men is never really written by chance but by choice; their choice!”
—Dwight D. Eisenhower

Blue Star Spring: Temperature 192°F Dimensions 9x10 feet. Depth 6 feet. It received its name from the star-like formation around the edge of the pool. Extensive ledges have formed three to four feet over the crater, creating an illusion of a small spring. This spring has had a history of vandalism. In 1946 during cleaning, a pile of debris three feet in height by six feet in width was collected. A bison calf fell into the pool in the mid 1980s and the bones can still be seen on the bottom. The spring discharges approximately four gallons per minute.

Chinaman Spring: Temperature 200° Dimensions 28x34 inches. Depth 12.5 feet. A small spring located along the Firehole River. Chinaman has erupted 20-30 feet high, but all known eruptions were man-induced. The first incident of a known eruption occurred in the 1880s when a Chinese laundryman pitched his tent over the spring and used the hot water as a clothes boiler. The clothes were suspended in the boiling water by a wicker basket. When laundry soap was added the spring erupted for the first time and a column of water ejected the laundry and collapsed the tent. It sounds like something that could only have occurred in a cartoon.

Lone Star Geyser: Temperature 197° Interval 3 hours. Duration 30 minutes. Height 35-40 feet. The 1872 Hayden Expedition originally named this feature Solitary because it was an isolated geyser on the upper Firehole River. Its large, streaked cone is 11.5 feet high. One large vent and several smaller apertures constantly splash during the quiet phase. This splashing is responsible for the cone growth. An eruption usually occurs in two phases. The first phase may be a short eruption lasting three to five minutes with jets reaching 25 feet. After a period of 15-25 minutes the second phase begins with splashing, then continues with a forceful jet of water which progresses into a steam phase. The second phase lasts 30 minutes.

“A patriot must always be ready to defend his country against his government.”
—Edward Abbey

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After walking the entire 4+ miles of boardwalk and trail in the Upper Geyser Basin (and a little more besides as we went back and saw a few of them more than once or backtracked to catch an eruption) we headed to the Old Faithful Inn, one of the most popular facilities in Yellowstone National Park. It is crazy close to Old Faithful Geyser and looks like a giant log cabin. It has over three hundred rooms, three floors, a huge communal fireplace right smack dab in the middle of the lobby area and views you wouldn’t believe.

The grand lobby, known as the “Old House,” is one of the largest log structures in the world. It was completed in 1904 and has unique features including etched glass panels, a large stone fireplace, and balcony porches overlooking the Old Faithful Geyser Basin. Timber columns, hickory furniture, and an antique, handcrafted clock add to the Old West feel. Some of the rooms – you have to book at least a year out to get one – have private bathrooms and some use shared facilities like many old-style hotels have. The Inn has a dining room, deli, espresso service, and a gift shop. The concierge desk can arrange sightseeing tours. And there are informational signs all over the place.

The Inn is only open in summer and doesn’t have radio, television, or Internet hook-ups which is crazy considering the price of a night’s lodging. As you might guess, the Inn is a non-smoking establishment. You can’t even vape or use a hookah. Fine by me but I understand they still catch people every year screwing around with the rules to prevent fires. Forest fires have nearly destroyed the Inn on multiple occasions. And I laughed and had to walk away quickly when I heard this girl, a teenager, complaining in shock, the place didn’t have AC or heat in the rooms. And that she wouldn’t be able to check her social media for an entire week. Oh, the tragedy.

I suppose I should talk considering I’m making money on the blog and was able to take care of attacks by Mizzou and her friends because I have internet access. But there are days when I’d gladly turn it all off if people would just leave us alone and not be buttheads that I need to protect us from.

“Those who expect to reap the blessings of freedom, must, like men, undergo the fatigues of supporting it.” ― Thomas Paine

After getting our fill of the Yellowstone Inn – hard to do but the place was crowded – and after looking through the giftshop we went out to the van for an early lunch and then went on to our afternoon activity. We were going to hike a portion of the Howard Eaton Trail.

“Liberty has never come from the government. Liberty has always come from the subjects of it. The history of liberty is a history of resistance.” — Woodrow Wilson​

The Howard Eaton Trail portion we hiked (aka the HET) is a 3.9-mile, mostly downhill section. The historic 157-mile trail was first dedicated in 1923 and had been built to accommodate saddle-horse parties touring the park after automobiles pushed them off the highways. According to a sign-thingie the NPS built the HET quickly by “joining abandoned old roads, connecting existing game trails and making a trail route through open meadows with guideposts and signs.” The trail was named in honor of Howard Eaton, the “Dean” of Yellowstone saddle-horse guides.

We only did a small portion of the trail, but it was still very cool and got us away from the worst of the crowds. We also added in a bit of the Biscuit Basin Bike trail which thrilled Benny to no end, but it was time to head back to camp because we were going to have a cook out.

“I venture to suggest that patriotism is not a short and frenzied outburst of emotion, but the tranquil and steady dedication of a lifetime.” — Adlai E. Stevenson

There was still plenty of light when we got back to camp and I was going to test the limits of the solar cooker. The instruction booklet says that how cool the weather is wasn’t as important as how much sunlight you have. Well, in the end I wouldn’t go quite that far, but The meatballs did cook all the way through. Even better they cooked on kebob sticks along with some fresh veggies I’d been saving for this occasion. I made a bed of pilaf to put the kebobs on.

In the amphitheater they had a slide show playing music and movies from all over Yellowstone. Benny and I sat and watched it for a while and drank warm cider; gluten-free of course.

It didn’t take long for Benny to get sleepy and willingly go back to the van. Tomorrow we move camps. I hope it is as nice as this one has been.
 

Kathy in FL

Administrator
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I am slammed. I had hoped to get some written out in Colorado but the file on this on is so large that my ipad kept messing things up. Hope to get some done over the weekend during Thanksgiving "recovery." LOL Sorry for the slow down. The story is written but the editing is massive.
 

9idrr

Veteran Member
I am slammed. I had hoped to get some written out in Colorado but the file on this on is so large that my ipad kept messing things up. Hope to get some done over the weekend during Thanksgiving "recovery." LOL Sorry for the slow down. The story is written but the editing is massive.
Glad to hear you've made progress. Post more and I'll love you forever.

Or, at least until I run out of story to read. :)
 

Kathy in FL

Administrator
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Well surprise, surprise, surprise. Seriously, I am trying to make time and not just find time to write again. I'm still slammed with work but hopefully I'll be posting more.

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July 5th – Fishing Bridge Area

Weather: 71/37
Driving Route:
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Only one night here at Fishing Bridge Campground, though this is also where we will stay our last night in Yellowstone, but that is almost two weeks off. We’ll need the services before getting out on the road again. It is not a bad camp, but it is all RVs and has a different feel from what there was in Grant Village. It is still neat but definitely crowded. It is like camping in a parking lot that is surrounded by trees. It is located near where the Yellowstone River exists into Yellowstone Lake. And it is the only campground in Yellowstone to have water, sewer, and electrical hookups; definitely an appreciated upgrade when you can get it.
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The reason why no tents or popups are allowed is because of get this … grizzly bears. Sorry, really don’t feel like being bear kabobs so as soon as it got to be twilight, Benny and I stayed in the van. I know my issue with bears is a little silly but … Benny. Bears are like dragons or something and I’m no knight even though I’d fight if I had to. I’m just realistic enough to know that a bear is higher up the food chain than I am during current circumstances. So, respect the bear and avoid confrontation to avoid being eaten.

And I’m glad we have the van to stay in because there have been sightings in the area closest to the lake. Uh uh. Sharks I can deal with; just use a bang stick and avoid the idiot tourist boats that chum the water. I can handle being careful of the small black bears we have in Florida because they are shy and really aren’t interested in any human interaction unless they get addicted to people garbage. Grizzly? That is an entirely new category of things that could eat Benny and I wouldn’t want to interact with one even without Benny in tow.

Some of the features that I was using at camp aside from the full hookups was the dump station, the cell signal, the recycling center where I could get rid of some of the cans that I have been collecting, the laundry facilities, and the camp store. Geez, I sound like such a prima donna. Nope. Just when you can use some first world conveniences, do it because while this van life isn’t as difficult as it could be, it still isn’t like living in a house.

Since I’m writing in this journal for posterity or just to burn off some steam, either way I should probably include what July is like in Yellowstone. In as few words as possible … it’s the high season. And I’m given to understand by other people that if I think Yellowstone is crowded now? I’m in for a learning experience for the remainder of our stay. They say that after the 4th of July through the beginning of August is when most people visit the park. That means driving and parking is going to get fun. Not. I don’t often wish for a car in tow, but this may be one of them.

One way I plan to avoid some of the crowd issues is to continue our schedule of getting up early and using the morning hours as efficiently as possible. The weatherman says to expect frosts on mornings of any month of the year, but July has the fewest since it is the warmest month. It is warm during the day but still gets cool in the late afternoon and evenings so plan on wearing layers … and having to carry them during longer hikes where the temps are likely to change quite a bit.

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Late June and all of July are supposed to be the best time for wildflowers since it is warmer. The flip side to that means that because it is warmer the animals seek higher, cooler, and less crowded areas to hang out. We’ve seen some animals, but I hope for Benny’s sake if nothing else, we get to see more. He goes totally gleek over the animals and all this nature stuff. I can see him turning into a naturalist or a ranger or something along those lines. I just hope I can help him turn into one with some commonsense and not be a people-hater. I gotta keep him socialized which is something I keep feeling I am falling back on. He and I have our challenges. I learned the hard way too often that not addressing mine could be a recipe for disaster, and if not disaster more problems than it should have been.

We did a couple of neat hikes today. Not many miles if you are keeping track of distance, but it was relaxing. We spent a lot of time wandering through and around the Fishing Bridge Visitor Center. The stone-and-log architecture of the old building—known as "parkitecture" which is kinda funny—was one of several prototypes for park buildings around the country. Today, the visitor center and museum highlight the ecology of Yellowstone Lake with the main focus on birds. And yes, per my expectations, Benny had a blast and paid better attention than most kiddos his age and he exercised his reading bone without complaints.

We also got to stop and visit with a couple of rangers. Benny listened and took notes. LOL. I ruffled his hair when I realized he was doing the same thing I do … shorthand hieroglyphics. I know it looks ridiculous for a grown woman to do it but there are just days that it is easier than fighting the dyslexia. My handwriting is great, but slow because I have to think about every letter as I write. But I can draw my personal symbols lightning fast and it looks like Benny is learning from watching me. That’s both good and bad.

We had just picked up a schedule of ranger programs when someone clears their throat. I turned and saw a woman who turned out to be an off-duty park volunteer.

“Yes?”

“Aunt Gus & Little Bear?”

“Yes. May I help you?” I responded making sure that Benny wasn’t grab-able.

“Actually I … we … I just wanted to say hello and thank you for your reviews of the national park service. My brother is a superintendent in the southeast and your blog has popped up on several comments.”

I was polite and said, “You’re welcome. Er … hopefully?”

The woman chuckled. “Definitely good. Anyway, have a good time here in Yellowstone.”

“We already are and thank you.”

After she left Benny asked me, “How do they know it is us? It’s … weird.”

“I guess they read our blog,” I answered with a shrug.

“I guess,” he responded making a sour face.

“It’s not horrible,” I told him with a chuckle at his expression.

“Maybe.”

“Tell you what, let’s pick up our fishing license and then go find that nature trail.”

That brought the happy back. “Yeah! Ooops, indoor voice”

I chuckled. I mean at least he was trying. Sorta.

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Pelican Creek Nature Trail isn’t even a mile long, but it packs a lot in in that distance. We walked through forest to the lakeshore before looping back to the trailhead. The trail is billed as a scenic introduction to a variety of Yellowstone’s habitats and as a good place for birding. I had to keep reminding Benny not to trying walking with the binoculars attached to his eyeballs. Then had to explain what I mean by “missing the forest for the trees.” Boy does this being-the-grown-up thing have the potential to lead to headaches.

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We spent some time down by the lake before heading on to Mud Volcano Trail, another one that was less than a mile long. Mud Volcano is not really a volcano. Okay maybe it is but not your typical volcano. Benny and I learned that Yellowstone itself is a volcano, and one of its most spectacular eruptions occurred 640,000 years ago. Maybe. That is a theory based on inexact science no matter how they try and frame it. I don’t suppose the exact date is all that important. The results are what is important. During the eruption, the land collapsed and left a large depression in the earth—what is now called the Yellowstone Caldera. This caldera filled with lava flows and created the volcanic plateau that comprises much of the central part of the park. At Mud Volcano we were close to one of the resurgent domes. Yeah, that was a freaky idea if I let my inner hamster get a little too imaginative. The hills east of Mud Volcano comprise Sour Creek Dome. As described on one of the sign-thingies in the area, resurgent domes are areas of active ground deformation, where the land moves up or down with the fluctuation of the magma chamber below. Scientists monitor these domes closely for information about ongoing volcanic activity.

When the Washburn Expedition explored the area in 1870, Nathaniel Langford described Mud Volcano as "greatest marvel we have yet met with." In a word? Er … it kinda stinks and reminds me of a pig wallow only it bubbles and gurgles like the earth has an upset stomach. There were a couple of boys there with their adults and they kept making farting jokes. I get it, their kids and boy-kids at that but even I used to find it irritating when the boys in my crew would get a little over enthused with bodily function jokes. Geez. The “mom” in their equation looked like she was ready to abandon them on the trail and let the wolves finish raising them. The “volcano” reminded me of something similar that Lawrence described on a trip he took to Trinidad so Mud Volcano isn’t the only one of its kind in the world.

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There were other things on the trail as well. I actually thought Dragon's Mouth Spring was cooler. It is a hot spring where a steaming “tongue” shoots out from a small cave. There was also the Sulphur Caldron across the highway, which is the most acidic hot springs in the park.

After all that science I surprised Benny with physical education. He had fun and it looks good on the detailed transcript I am creating for him just in case … well, just for in case. Grandma Barry’s notes kept me from being held back in school when I went to live with Lawrence. Benny might need something like that one of these days … just in case. Our physical education for the day? We headed back to camp then rode our bikes to Natural Bridge. It is a 2.5-mile there-and-back bike trail. Or you can walk it. I just wanted us to blow the fog of the science from our brains.

Benny laughed when I said it that way. He loves the science. Hopefully he’ll end up being a smarter kid than I was. I mean I wasn’t awful – at least not academically – but I have a feeling he’ll do better than I will. That’s a good thing. I don’t want to take credit away from him in that respect but at the same time it makes me feel good that I am helping him to reach his full potential even if his full potential is going to be bigger than mine. Isn’t that what a parental unit is supposed to want? For the kid to be more than they ever got to be?

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The Natural Bridge was formed by erosion of what is called the rhyolite outcrop by Bridge Creek. That’s a mouthful I copied verbatim from a sign-thingie. The top of the bridge is approximately 51 feet above the creek. A short switchback trail leads to the top, though travel across the bridge is prohibited to protect this feature. We hung around, took some pictures, Benny made notes for his Junior Ranger certificate and then headed back to the van. We were going to do Storm Point Trail after that but it was closed due to bear activity, so we headed back to Yellowstone Lake and decided to kayak and fish.

Guess what we had for dinner? Hot dogs. Either the bears ate our quota or the family with three kids … one of them a tweenager acting half his age and slapping the water with his oar to irritate his father.

You know I know I can be bad, but I don’t think I’ve ever been the kind of bad that kid was being. Basically he was trying to provoke his sister and Benny who, in the absence of biting fishing, were quietly whispering about their mutual goal of completing their junior ranger booklets. The girl was six or seven and only had another day in the park and Benny was trying to help her with some of the parts he’d already done. I’m think boo-yah, Little Bear is socializing with someone close to his age and I didn’t have to prompt him. Just then the craphole brother hits her square in the face with water but the follow through was a little stronger than he expected, and he also pegged her in the face with the oar.

An older brother was also in the canoe. He was about fifteen and saw it happen. Problem was his hand was in a cast and he couldn’t paddle very well, and the craphole was panicking after he realized what he’d done. The girl had both hands over the eye and was shaking. Blood was coming from beneath her hands. It wasn’t gushing but it wasn’t a small amount either. Emergency Gus took over before panic could set in.

“Hey!” I yelled to the Dad and Mom. “I’m getting to her to shore. Right over there,” I said pointing. I pulled her from the canoe and into my lap. “Benny help me row. Fast but steady. Got it? I need to hold her.”

My Little Bear did exactly as I had taught him. We practically bisected the small beach with our prow. I picked her up as I stood up out of the kayak, grabbed the first aid kit I always keep handy and sat her on the beach. First came the silver blanket to preserve body temp. She was shaking like a leaf. I grabbed the saline and carefully made her take her hands down.

“You want to hold my hand?” Benny asked quietly. “My Aunt Gus knows lots of stuff. She’s never met a boo boo she couldn’t fix.”

“Benjamin.”

“Sorry. Don’t exaggerate,” he told himself. Turning to the little girl he said, “See? She’s really good but doesn’t believe we should toot our own horn.”

Where does he get those things he says? I let him keep talking as it seemed to be keeping the girl distracted be he and I need to have a discussion.

From the corner of my eye I saw that the parents were trying to land and it was like the Keystone Cops. Dad was trying to get both canoes to shore at the same time. Mom is trying really hard not to have hysterics. Big brother looks like he wants to give the younger one a serious beat down. And the juvie wannabe was loudly proclaiming his innocence.

“Wow, he didn’t get hit. Why is he making so much noise?” Benny asked.

The girl, coming out of the shock said, “He’s always like that. He usually lives with his mom, but Daddy said he had to come live with us because he is getting uncorrigable.”

Mom was pretty good. Once she got to her daughter. She works in an assisted living facility for young adults that won’t ever be able to live on their own for whatever reason. Dad wasn’t bad either. He had the presence of mind to have a sat phone and made a call to the Ranger 911 line which had them speeding our way pronto.

I wasn’t having a lot of luck getting the bleeding stopped. The oar had split her eyebrow pretty good and the swelling wasn’t giving me the chance to butterfly it closed. The split was also on the outer edge and closer to her eye than I was comfortable with. I could tell that her eye had taken a little damage as well as it wasn’t just pink but was red where some blood vessels had broken. I suspected there was probably a pretty good bruise around the eye in addition to the cut. I could do temporary but she needed a real medic/doc to check her over.

I asked mom to sit and hold her daughter. The shock was wearing off and the pain was setting in. The girl was shaking again and trying not to tune up and have hysterics but I suspected it was a losing battle. Benny tried to turn loose of her hand when mom held her but that only upset the little girl.

“S’ok. Your momma is right here and your daddy is too. Aunt Gus isn’t going to let anything happen to you either.”

The little girl wasn’t really listening too much by then and I was praying the ranger/medic would get there quickly. I was beginning to worry maybe there was some underlying trauma. Then the little girl started getting quiet. Too quiet.

“Talk to her mom. Keep her awake and focused.”

I noticed mom holding her wrist, what I realized she was checking her pulse. Just then the girl started vomiting and we were dealing with that when the park’s version of an ambulance pulled up. I gave them the run down as they got the little girl on a gurney. They were gone pretty fast. It had been three vehicle … “ambulance,” an additional vehicle for the other adult and kids, and another vehicle with two rangers in it … one to take my statement and another to grab the two canoes. Let me tell you, Yellowstone has it going on. I gathered from my discussion with the two rangers that they are used to emergencies and have a lot of protocols in place to cover all their bases.

Whew, that was our excitement for the day. I really didn’t do that much in the scheme of things. The little girl needed more professional help than I could give her under the circumstances. I couldn’t even get the bleeding to stop long enough to put antibiotic cream on the cut. The vomiting could mean she was going into clinical shock or it could mean a concussion or something even worse. I haven’t discussed “worse” with Benny. I don’t know if we’ll ever know how things turn out and that’s something that he is having to learn about. Though unfortunately he has linked that with we’ll never know why Penny did what she did. He just “hopes her stupid brother gets in trouble.” I told him not to look at it that way but to hope he gets the help he needs and will accept that help and do something with it. Little deep for Benny to understand but I hope the concept will sink in at some point.

Tomorrow we camp in Canyon Village. Has to be quieter with less drama. I’m proud of Benny for helping the way he did, and told him so. This isn’t something he needs a regular dose of however. Praying he doesn’t have nightmares tonight.
 

moldy

Veteran Member
Yay!! More story!

I am incredibly greedy when it comes to your stories. Honestly, you are my favorite author. I have to remind myself that you have a busy life as well, but I am so grateful to have more to read.
 

Kathy in FL

Administrator
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July 6th – Hayden Valley and Mt. Washburn (Part 1)

Weather: 72/34
Driving Route:
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“Hey! Hey Daniel!” I heard someone call in the dark of very early morning. Too loud for so early was the only thing I was thinking.

I wasn’t paying much attention as I was busying going to the RV sewer dump and that sort of thing takes concentration when you are doing it in the dark if you don’t want a mess to deal with. At the same time … the smell makes you want to concentrate hard on not noticing what is right in front of you. I had on a headlamp and the headlights of the van and that’s what light I had.

“Excuse me … ma’am … er … Gus … Aunt Gus?”

That brought me wide awake and bushy tailed. I squinted and saw a guy … kid … older kid guy type person. Then I realize he is the older brother from yesterday and I quickly dropped the defensive posture I’d gotten into.

To distract from what I’d been prepared to do I said, “Hey! We were wondering how your sister is doing … just didn’t know how to find out or who to ask.”

He nodded energetically. “It’s cool. Mom and Daniel were wondering the same thing … only I mean about saying thank you and stuff. When you are done can you like pull over for a sec? Daniel ran back to camp to pull the camper around and wants to … you know … talk and stuff. I mean if you’ve got a sec. Please.”

“Relax. It’s fine. We’re ahead of schedule and Benny was a little … er … frantic last night. Bad dream and he’s still wondering about your sister. He’s …”

“Yeah,” he said with understanding. “Gabby and him are on the same wavelength. Mom and Daniel were totally blasted by how they were getting along. Lots of the time Gabby doesn’t talk to non-family type people. It was kinda cool and why Roger was throwing attitude. He expects to be the center of everyone’s universe. And just to let you know, he had a complete meltdown at the clinic and they med’ed him up and kept him for observation. We’re going to check on him now.”

“And Gabby?”

Little Bear Big Ears picked that moment to wake up, stick his head out the window and ask, “Is Gabby okay?!”

The kid was more than obviously experienced at interacting with Benny type kids and said, “You betcha. She’s a little cranky this morning though so if she doesn’t want to talk don’t take it personal. Mom said the pain medicine they gave her for the headache is interacting with her other meds but it’ll wear off. I know she’ll still be happy to see you, she just may not show it.”

“That’s all right. I just want her ouches to be okay. Sometimes I’m not real cowmunicative either.” Benny’s grasp of big words is still a little iffy on some days.

About that time “Daniel” and “Mom” drove up and hopped out of the van and came at me with hands outstretched. My arm was nearly shaken off and the thank yous were embarrassing, especially when “Mom” gave me a hug, but sometimes you have to let people be nice or they might not be nice to the next person and all that other yada yada psychobabbly stuff. They said that my quick action probably helped to prevent some of the worse symptoms of shock.

“Seriously, I’m just glad to hear that Gabby is okay. And … um … your other son is getting some help. And at the risk of TMI, I want to say that Benny and I have our own diagnosis so everything is cool and I understand what you are dealing with.”

Mom said, “I spent hours last night reading your blog after the rangers let slip who you two are. Thank you. And at the risk of our own … um … TMI, I just have to tell you that it is refreshing to have some realism interjected and … and …”

Daniel picked up when she didn’t know how to say what she’d started. “I think what we’re trying to say is … thank you. For some hope and … and an admission that some challenges are lifelong but that it doesn’t have to be the end of the world. Some of the so-called specialists my ex-wife was taking Roger to … they played it off like it was a phase or mild to the point it wasn’t worth their time to counsel. I understand what you said better. We can’t fix them so we need to teach the kids how to … how to manage their own issues. I think you called it behavioral management over medication dependence.”

I held up a hand and said, “All of us are different. Meds offer opportunities for some of us. For me they masked things but didn’t help me learn to deal with stuff. When I turned eighteen most of the meds would have gone away because they weren’t approved for adult use and I would have been left trying to learn stuff that would have been easier to learn earlier, so my dad chose to skip the meds for the most part and stick with behavioral training. Benny has some of that plus we share learning challenges. The rest of his is a severe gluten issue that goes beyond allergy that we were lucky to catch early.”

Mom nodded. “We recently found out Roger’s primary pediatrician has been recommending an elimination diet for him for years but … it looks like it wasn’t taken seriously enough. It is at the top of the to do list when we get back home and can figure out how to do it without …” she shrugged. “His mother overcompensates and that hasn’t been successful and now she is just topped off and finally admitted she needed … help with him.”

Daniel muttered where I wasn’t supposed to hear, “Only after a battle in family court.”

I ignored that and instead said, “Trust me. I understand. Benny’s was extreme when he was really little and coincided with some other life events. And I know diet isn’t a magic wand either. And even if it does wind up that Roger has some dietary issues that might not be all you have to deal with. And at the risk of sounding like I have all the answers, if he is into electronics that might be one of the things you have to eliminate until you can see if it is rocking his behavior and only gradually let it back in up to the point to see where it is beneficial versus destructive. Not every kid can handle that kind of mental input when they are trying to retrain the brain. This isn’t a world where you can successfully live like a caveman without tech, but moderation does help some people. Benny and I had to learn it at different stages, and so do a lot of kids and adults whether they have personal challenges or not.”

As mom nodded Daniel said, “It’s good to find other people that have to deal with this. Roger … he’s my son from my first marriage. He’s never been what you call average, but he’s never been this extreme before. Loopy kid stuff sure but he was never violent. Yesterday scared the hell out of me. But there was a good doctor on staff in the emergency room. He couldn’t have been out of medical school long but he handled everything like he was a pro and been doing it for years. He said Roger’s meltdown was probably … I don’t know he had some term for it but boils down to his emotions got away from him.”

“Ain’t adolescence grand? Or at least that is what my grandmother told my dad when I was Roger’s age. From experience …” I stopped and shook my head to stop sounding like a guru on a soap box. My story wasn’t their story. “None of my business but my opinion is Roger isn’t ruined. It’s just going to feel like a lot of work and a huge challenge to help him find a more constructive path for the way he navigates through life. But one piece of advice I will give is don’t try and do it alone. My dad got a lot of support from his parents because … er … ‘challenging’ personalities are kind of a thing in my family; hereditary and all that. But there were also people at the church we went to that helped, I was in scouting and the adult volunteers played a role in influencing me and my behavior, and lucky for me we found I was a sucker for being on and in the water and it helped me to have a positive outlet for my ‘excess’ energies that could get me into trouble even when I didn’t go looking for it. I will say I was home schooled, but that isn’t a magic potion and doesn’t work for all families. If he is in a more traditional classroom setting so you can look for some support there. Most schools are now required to have behavioral specialists on staff. I’m just saying … don’t lose hope. Maybe this incident has Roger hitting bottom and enough people taking notice that he can start going up from here. Just for his sake don’t be disappointed when it isn’t a straight line up.” I held up a hand like I was in class and said, “Talking personal experience here. I’ve taken enough screwy turns that I’m thankful that there were people in my life to teach me that failure is just your next opportunity to succeed.”

I then smiled as I saw that the two “challenged children” were talking through the vehicle windows with “Big Brother” monitoring them.

“He’s good,” I told them.

Daniel said, “I couldn’t ask for a better stepson … better son. He’s a good kid. I worry he isn’t getting a fair shake in all this … and his real father has brought that up too. I was hoping to prove this summer that …” He stopped talking like he’d said too much.

I don’t know if it was shame or disappointment coloring his expression but felt compelled to say, “You aren’t scarring him for life or anything close. It doesn’t hurt to have to mature before your peers. It’ll help him deal with being ready to be an adult when he needs to be. I … suppose since you read the blog you know that I was orphaned then lost my brother a couple of years later. But … look … I’d give a lot to have not had to …” I stopped and changed tack because I’m not too sure people will understand even if I explain it. “What I’m trying to say is my brother got called crazy and strict and harsh and thoughtless and all the rest for the years I was living with him, but the truth is he was the last thing from thoughtless and he prepared me for life. If he hadn’t taught me some of the stuff he did, gotten me involved in the programs he did that taught me more, had expectation and taught me how to meet them, gave me positive reinforcement when I did make good choices and that sort of thing, and called me on the carpet when I fell short of what he knew I was capable of, I’m honestly not sure … My life would just have been a lot worse. Maybe I had to learn certain life lessons and daily living skills earlier than my peers, maybe it was unfair and maybe not, but when life happened … I needed the lessons that I’d already had. I was more successful and all the rest because of the harder I’d had early on and because my brother was willing to handle me the different that I needed, eventually needed more than anyone could have guessed. And now I’m getting to do all of this … raising Benny, traveling with him, us being the family we are … because my brother took the time to care enough that even when other people didn’t understand why, he still chose to do what he did. I’m not selling my dad and grandparents short … I’m reminded daily of things they said, did, and taught me … but my brother took it the next step and I needed that then and rely on it today. Nor am I blind to the fact that what he taught me benefitted him, and now benefits his son. Life is never one sided.”

We spoke a few more minutes but you get to a point where you are covering the same ground and maybe feel you’ve overshared with strangers, and it just becomes time to go your separate ways. They asked if Gabby could communicate with Benny via the blog and I nodded and told them that I moderated things and all the other yada yada tech stuff and they were understanding. Gabby was getting tired and that ended the conversation with Benny, but he too was reaching top-off. The one thing I did out of earshot was tell big brother, “I just want to say thank you.”

“I didn’t do nothing.”

I could hear Grandmother’s opinion on his grammar with the double-negative and almost smiled but tried to stay serious. “Look, people see you. They see you trying and doing good things and they worry that they are taking advantage of you. They appreciate you. But life sucks and there are going to be days that you don’t think people see you because of everything else going on in life. So when that happens try to remember moments like this. People do see you … and appreciate you. ‘K?”

I could tell I’d embarrassed his fifteen-year-old soul, but I could see he also seemed to appreciate knowing that someone took the time to tell him. We shook on it which changed the embarrassment to a little surprise and then to a smile. We nodded at each other and then both of our families were pulling away going different directions. That happens a lot in life, but it isn’t necessarily a bad thing.

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Kathy in FL

Administrator
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July 6th – Hayden Valley and Mt. Washburn (Part 2)

I could tell that Benny was a little something or other as we drove away from the Fishing Bridge area but gave him a chance to say something first. When it didn’t happen I asked, “You okay Little Bear?”

“Yeah,” he said with a little old man sigh. “I wish …”

“Wish what?”

“That I could have a friend like Gabby. She’d have fun with us and wouldn’t have to be around Rogers.”

By that I took it that he people like Roger. “She’ll be stronger for it,” I told him.

He gave me a confused look. “Huh?”

“The way it was explained to me by Grandfather Barry is … if life was too easy we would never be strong enough. Easy is … easy. Challenging things makes us work on the emotional and spiritual muscles that makes us stronger for when bad things in life happen.”

“But getting hit in the face by a mean person is bad. We shouldn’t have to be around people like that.”

“It is a type of bad,” I said correcting him. “But it isn’t the worst kind of bad that Gabby will likely have to face in her life. Did I want to stop being around you when you hit face with your Wiggle-Waggle when you were a baby?”

“Noooo. But I was a baby and you said I didn’t know what I was really doing because I was sick with gluten.”

“Okay, so think about it. Roger is … for lack of a better word, he’s sick with something and doesn’t really understand right now how what he does affects other people. You could tell right away that he was scared of what he’d caused to happen. That he wasn’t able to handle it.”

“But he is a big kid.”

“He’s a bigger kid, not necessarily a big kid yet. And he’s thinking isn’t straight. He’s got something going on, I’m not sure what because it isn’t my business and to be honest it doesn’t sound like his family knows everything either. But they want to help him and they are going to get him help. I’m not saying that there shouldn’t be consequences, but the consequences need to be the kind he can understand so he changes the choices he makes. When you were a baby I took away the Wiggle-Waggle until you learned to not use it like a weapon to show how much you didn’t understand what was wrong around you, until you could express yourself more constructively. And yeah, my lip still has a little scar in it to remind me of my own thinking and actions at the time. But I tell you, in hindsight I’m glad I knew enough not to spank you or anything like that because you weren’t mature enough to understand all what you had done wrong … taking the Wiggle-Waggle away was enough. Sending Roger away or not being with him is not the answer. Teaching him a different way to sail through life is what needs to happen. Hopefully they’ll figure that out. And while it is happening Gabby can be a stronger person as a result. Her family isn’t going to let Roger run roughshod over her, and what happened is a lesson to everyone.”

A little deep for Benny that early in the morning but at least he heard some of it and said, “Family is what you make of it.”

“Where on earth did you hear that?”

“Uncle Groucho and Aunt Stella. They know about families being different. They have crazy ones too.”

I had to laugh because that was about as true as it gets. It also reminded me I needed to keep in touch better though part of me thinks there is an element of relief for Groucho to know he doesn’t have to take on yet another family at this stage in his life; that I’m mature enough to step up and raise Benny and myself. I think the man may have finally had all of the Hot Mess Mamas that he is inclined to have.
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This morning our first activity – and one we needed to brush off all the drama – was a trip to the Hayden Valley for some wildlife viewing. Hayden Valley is named for Ferdinand Hayden, leader of the 1871 Hayden Survey team. Hayden Valley is a huge open grassland known for being a great place to view wildlife. This vast meadow features rolling hills, islands of trees, and several major thermal areas. The Yellowstone River also flows across the bottom of the valley from south to north and is a magnet for all kinds of animals. The Valley is pretty much the center of Yellowstone Caldara which explains the thermal areas.

The Valley is one of the few places in the world where wolves, grizzlies and bison coexist in an area easily accessed by paved road. There are several spots with pull outs along the Grand Loop Road that make for the best vantage points. Grizzly Overlook, near the north end of Hayden Valley, may be the best if the guidebooks are to be believed. By walking across the road and up to a hilltop, you can see both directions across the valley. The large pull outs at the north end of the valley are also good, since the Wapiti Lake pack tends to be most active near here. Or try the large parking area at Trout Creek just south of Sulphur Mountain. And boy did we have this point driven home by what we found.

We were not the first people at any of the pullouts. We pulled in and found a lot of people were there with binoculars and cameras that looked like they could view even the smallest spots on Jupiter without much effort. Everyone was quiet so I knew they were watching something in particular, and their expressions said it was something particularly awe inspiring. We were lucky to find a spot to get our own look. The bison wasn’t lucky however. There were wolves gathered around a bison carcass that a ranger there monitoring the crowds said probably hadn’t survived a brutal fight of the summer rut … more reinforcement if needed as far as how dangerous the big animals could be.

The ranger also pointed out a grizzly that seemed to be thinking about busting in on the wolves to get him some bison action on the huge backstraps.[1] The wolves seemed to know they were in danger of being run off by the larger predator and were frantically gobbling what they could tear out as fast as they could. The grizzly made a few false charges, backed off and then got too hungry to be polite about it and finally ran the pack off and started dragging what was left of the carcass to the tree line. The ranger said the bear – a very large male – would eat his fill and then stash what remained under a log or similar to come back for later.
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Looking our fill and then getting full of the crowds of people we headed to Cascade Lake Trail, a 4.4-mile there and back trail that passes through open meadows to Cascade Lake where we were told wildflowers abounded. And how. Wow. We also saw plenty of wildlife but from a safe distance. There was a bison in an open field area, mule deer and a couple of elk amongst the trees, and two huge swans on the lake. Plenty of birds. The wildflowers looked alive because of all of the butterflies on them. We were warned that the trail can be wet and snowy through July but we didn’t run into any of that. It was muddy around the lake itself but the trail out and back was fine.
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Nice hike to get the blood flowing and get the wiggles out. From there we headed to the Canyon Visitor Education Center aka the Canyonlands Visitor Center. We stopped by to get our camping spot first of all then stayed a few more minutes so Benny could work on some Junior Ranger activities. The educational activities covered were the geologic story of the area, including the Yellowstone volcano, and view a room-size relief map of Yellowstone. Benny got a little bit of a headache trying to memorize it so I told him that’s what pictures are for so I picked him up an orientation map. Dyslexia is real and maps can be our friends. Easier than trying to get our brains to remember things in the correct direction. “Tricks” only work when your brain is cooperating. There are some days more difficult than others. Take “bed” for instance. That helps your average person to remember which way “b” faces but on some days your brain will only see “deb” instead.

To make sure I didn’t need to stop for the day to make Benny “nap” because of the headache which I did not want to turn into his rare migrains, we looked in the souvenir shops and and at Benny’s request watched some of the 20-minute film in the center. We also used the restrooms. While looking in one of the more expensive stores I spotted a ring – well outside my price range – that could have been the sibling of one of Grandfather Barry’s “family treasures.” One of his uncles, an onery old man hardly anyone got along with, was a wanderer but would come back to the homestead on occasion until one of his wanderings ended his life. He deeded his percentage of the homestead to Grandfather and also left him his greatest possession, an elk tooth ring. Like I said, he was an onery cuss but had a soft spot for Grandfather and good thing, because with that percentage Grandfather was able to wrench control of the homestead from some of the other family and keep it from getting sold off to developers.
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We got back to the van and then headed to our camp site while I told Benny that bit of our family history. While I fixed a quick picnic lunch as we made sure that our site wouldn’t be vulnerable to “campsite pirates,” I told him another story of that great great uncle (his third great uncle) and while we ate told him that if he was inclined I’d tell him some more another time.

“Are they real stories?”

“You mean are they made up? Grandfather Barry swears they were the truth but who knows for absolutely sure. Family lore says that uncle was a man who was brutally honest in all things – one of the reasons he had trouble getting along with other people – so the stories are probably true, but like with all such stories might be a little polished and spiffed up for telling.” He laughed and then we headed out to our afternoon activity, charged up because the drama of the morning was behind us.



[1] “Occurred on October 15, 2021 / Yellowstone, Wyoming, USA “On October 15, 2021, while in Yellowstone for a week, we made a video of 10 plus Junction Pack Wolves fighting with a Grizzly Bear over pieces of Elk carcass. There was butt nipping and paw swiping but no injuries. Looked like they had done this before.” https://www.air.tv/watch?v=g_ND3ffjQx213Y3in5dM2Q&share=true
 

Kathy in FL

Administrator
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July 6th – Hayden Valley and Mt. Washburn (Part 3)

I’ll be honest, our afternoon hike was one that Dad and I had always wanted to go on. A bucket list item kind of thing. We’d read plenty of guidebooks to get the best description but the one Dad like best was the one written by a man calling himself Tom Carter.
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The Chittenden Road/Mt. Washburn Trail follows an old road used by stagecoaches and early automobiles to reach the top of Mount Washburn back when Yellowstone National Park was a newly minted tourist destination. Along the way wildflowers mantle the slopes, and bighorn sheep are occasionally seen … I think we saw them, but they were too far away to be more than hairy white spots on the side of the mountain that could have been anything and nothing but a mirage. Because of its central location, Mount Washburn gives you one of the most sweeping views of the park. For these reasons and more, it also happens to be one of the most popular trails in Yellowstone. Parking was not fun and we had to walk back to the trail head but I told Benny that just limbered us up for the hike in front of us. We had our walking sticks and I had our water and snacks in the pack I was wearing.

The trail travels east from Dunraven Pass on the old road to the top of Mount Washburn (10,243'). It was named for Henry Washburn, Surveyor-General of the Montana Territory and leader of the 1870 Washburn Expedition, the same one that surveyed a lot of the Old Faithful geyser basin. That year, General Washburn climbed this mountain to locate the best route to Yellowstone Lake. A quote from his journal reads, "The country before us was a vast basin. Far away in the distance, but plainly seen, was the Yellowstone Lake.”

The old roadbed that we followed was originally constructed in 1905 by Captain Hiram Chittenden of the Army Corps of Engineers. It was used by stagecoaches, and later automobiles, to reach the summit. All I could do was imagine it's 1920 and model-T Fords wood “zoom” around the switchbacks at their “hellacious speed” of 4 mph. Crazy but if your imagination is good enough and you remember what you read in the visitor center, you'll see that they are backing up the mountain -- that's right, the were going up in reverse! In those early days, automobiles had no fuel pump; the fuel fed to the engine via gravity. The gas tank was under the seat and if the road was steep enough the gas could not flow up to the engine. The only solution was to back up instead. Humph. And people thing the stories of great great Uncle Beauford are tall tales.
Picture18.jpgAs we climbed higher, the lodgepole pines (two-needled) and subalpine fir (single-needle) trees gave way to distinctive five-needled whitebark pines. The bark of its seedlings is covered with a fine white coating and mature trees often display a whitish cast. At higher elevations, near timberline, the whitebark pines become dwarfed and gnarled by harsh weather conditions. And no, I didn’t have that memorized, it was in the bit of movie we saw at the visitor center. But nothing like seeing it in real life. Has more impact on the memory banks.

The old road twists and turns in switchback all the way to the mountain top, providing what the guidebooks call in grand understatement “dramatic views to the rim of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, the huge open meadows of Hayden Valley, Yellowstone Lake, and on a clear day the Tetons 50 miles to the south.” One of the few times I’ve wanted a better camera is on that hike. Maybe one day I’ll meet someone who knows all about cameras and can teach me. With my luck however I’ll learn only to have Aunt Gus and Little Bear’s Adventure to be over with.
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We tracked our progress using the Washburn fire lookout station as ot grew closer and closer. Near the top the trail circles the lookout and reaches the summit from the north, 3.7 miles from the trailhead. Maybe not a long hike to star out but all the up was felt by our ankles and calves.

The first fire lookout station on the summit of Mount Washburn was constructed in 1921. The current station was built in 1940. In 1979, a small Visitor Center was added. But all of them have been threatened from time to time by fires, the very thing the fire lookout was built to help monitor.

Because of its central location, Mount Washburn offers one of the best possible overall views in the park. General Sherman of the first US Civil War era summed it up when he stated, "Any man standing on Mount Washburn feels as though the whole world were below him."
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All along the trail were many opportunities for viewing dozens of species of wildflowers. I stopped being able to count them all but did take pictures for Benny to have as a keepsake. We could name a few that we spotted. Low mats of 5-petalled white to lavender flowers known as phlox, striking rocket-shaped pink and yellow flowers called shooting stars, and the long spines of blue to purple pealike flowers named lupine. The fiery red tops of the Indian paintbrush (Wyoming's state flower) stood out the most. Fun fact: The paintbrush is a semi-parasitic flower. Its roots tap the roots of other plants for nourishment.

Because of how strenuous the hike was we lollygagged around up on the summit for a while, relaxing, drinking our water and eating a few snacks, and taking lots of pictures. Unfortunately, as with all good things, it had to eventually come to an end. I didn’t want to be on the trail in the dark – lions and tigers and bears oh my – so we headed back and got to camp just in time to realize we’d need to scarf our dinner of leftover hotdogs from the previous night if we wanted to get to the ranger talk. After that Benny was one tired boy and I barely got him washed up before he was crawling in bed with his Stuffy Crew.

I still had some wiggles left in me, not to mention some adulting that I needed to do including checking up to make sure there had been no further problems with my online stuff and sending off a short note to Groucho and Stella to let them know everything was going well. However I think my wiggles are officially comatose and I’m going to hit the hay as well. Tomorrow our main activity is another long trail, about ten miles, and I have a feeling I’m going to be a little sore until I limber up. I carried Benny the last mile down the mountain because he split his little toenail somehow. He says it is no longer sore but I’ll doctor it a bit in the morning to make sure that stays true.
 

Kathy in FL

Administrator
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Ugh, my editing skills that have never been great are obviously rusty based on my re-read of what I've posted. Give me some grace and I will try and improve. I'm trying to get more story posted while I have the time and my eyes are skipping over things they shouldn't.

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July 7th – Observation Peak

Weather: 71/38
Driving Route:
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Today I realized that I should have planned better. We had to duplicate the Cascade Lake Trail to get where we wanted to go … Observation Peak Trail, a 9.6-mile there and back trail. It didn’t detract from the experience, but I could have planned better which would have utilized our time more efficiently. Oh well, there’s no changing it so we just made the best of it.

Again we hiked through open meadows full of wildflowers and wildlife and passed over small feeder creeks that drain into Cascade Lake. Cascade Lake is tucked below Observation Peak. We took a moment to look for the swans that we’d seen before but they weren’t around. Or at least we didn’t see them on the visible part of the lake. This time we also noted that the shore around the lake isn’t all the same. One section of shore is lined in lodgepole pines, while another sits at the base of the meadows along the flanks of the mountain. And another section of the shore is the broad meadow that you approach the lake from. The trail for Observation Peak breaks off just before you get to the lake and begins climbing up the ridge. The trail climbs 1,400 feet in 2.6 miles through whitebark pine forest.
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As we climbed, views of 36-acre Cascade Lake and Canyon Village were behind us, but they soon faded into the distance. At 1.9 miles the trail bent left as it topped the ridge. Soon we got better than nice views of the much larger, 156-acre Grebe Lake, the headwaters of the Gibbon River. Further south, we saw Hayden Valley as the Yellowstone River snaked its way to the canyon. Finally, we reached the top and a lookout perched on a rocky outcropping.

The summit of Observation Peak and the end of the trail is reached at the 2.6 miles marker. The panoramic views from that point were amazing. The peak lies in the heart of the Washburn Range, drained to the north by Tower Creek. The western horizon is dominated by the Gallatin Range. To the south lies Hayden Valley. To the west, if you have binoculars, you can see Mt. Holmes at the southern end of the Gallatin Range and its own fire lookout. To the south there was the Central Plateau and the Canyon Junction area to the east. Just out of sight was Mt. Washburn, but to the north, it was just more hills and mountains. I say “just” but it was still an incredible view.
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It is the great view from this location, especially down the Tower Creek drainage, that motivated the NPS to construct a fire lookout here in 1939 (with help from the CCC.). Wildfire was a significant reason for building trails and lookouts in Yellowstone. In 1910, huge fires burned more than 5 million acres across the west, killing 85 people, mostly in western Montana and Idaho. Not long after the Park Service and Forest Service began building “fire lanes,” many of which are hiking trails today.

Yellowstone constructed 3 primary fire lookouts on Mount Washburn (in 1921), Mount Sheridan (1926), and Mount Holmes (1931). The fire lookout station at the summit of Observation Peak was a "secondary lookout" built to see "blind areas" not seen from the primary lookouts. Other secondary looks include Bunsen Peak, Pelican Cone, and Purple Mountain (which no longer exists).

It was too breezy to really have a picnic like we had planned – breezy and crowded – so after getting our fill of the views and taking plenty of pictures, including a bunch of selfies, we started back the way we’d come. We wound up eating as we walked – easy to do since all the food was “walking” food items – because of the crowds on the trail coming back down and due to the bugs around the lake where were much worse than before. The hike was almost ten miles long but didn’t take as much time as I expected. That wasn’t a bad thing as we had an afternoon thunderstorm roll through. I wasn’t loving how exposed we were or how wet Benny got. Or how wet I got for that matter.

Overall, the hike wasn’t an overly strenuous one. There were a couple of steeper sections, and the elevation may get to some, but Benny was a trooper and we both have plenty of hiking experience by this time. The wide range of terrain, water, and exceptional views made this hike a rewarding experience even with the duplication of the Cascade Lake portion.

Once back to the van I made a command decision – after all I am the Captain – and we headed back to camp early after stopping by the visitor center to let Benny finish the exhibits and to give me time to refill several of our water bottles at the potable water dispensing station.

Back in camp I had Benny take a quick warm shower – with “no smell” type soap of course – while I started a better dinner than we’d had in a few nights. I decided on breakfast for dinner. First, I made a batch of cornmeal muffins. They aren’t like the biscuits that Grandma Barry made but I’ve gotten no complaints from anyone I’ve ever served them to. I had to make them skillet style in the van because another thunderstorm rolled through bringing with it too much cloud cover for the solar oven experiment I had wanted to try.

Next came a small batch of Benny-approved gluten-free pancakes. I’m running out of plain ol’ pancake syrup so what I did was warm up some jelly to the point it lost its “set” so it was pourable.

Lastly I made a skillet scramble with home fries (potatoes out of a can, fried up so that no one could tell the difference between them and fresh), diced bacon (from an off-the-shelf package of salad fixings), a few diced onions (rehydrated from a jar of dried ones), scrambled eggs, and a little bit of shelf stable cheese sprinkled and melted on top.

There were no leftovers believe it or not so I’ve already set a thermos of overnight oatmeal to have for breakfast in the morning. Since it was too wet to play outside and the ranger program was cancelled, and the cloud cover made using the van’s solar charged batteries a little risky on something frivolous like a movie, Benny and I are making an early night of it. We’re clean, have our bellies full, killed the last mosquito with prejudice that snuck into the van, and are snug as a bug in a rug. An early night sounds about right and now that Benny’s light snores are coming from his area I’m going to try and get to sleep myself. Don’t think I’m going to have to try very hard either.
 
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